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FIVE O'CLOCK TEA 



BREAKFAST, DINNER AND SUPPER 

OR 

What to Eat and How to Prepare It 

CONTAINING 

ALL THE LATEST APPROVED RECIPES IN EVERY DEPARTMENT 

OF COOKING; INSTRUCTIONS FOR SELECTING MEATS 

AND CARVING; DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST 

KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. 

INCLUDING 

HYGIENIC AND SCIENTIFIC COOKING 

RULES FOR DINNER GIVING; USE OF THE CHAFING DISH; MENU 

CARDS FOR ALL SPECIAL OCCASIONS; COOKING FOR 

INVALIDS; VALUABLE HINTS FOR ECONOMICAL 

HOUSEKEEPING, ETC. 

THE WHOLE FORMING 

A STANDARD AUTHORITY ON THE 
CULINARY ART 



MAUD C. COOKE 

Author of " Social Etiquette," Etc., Etc. 



Superbly Embellished with Engravings in Colors 
and Phototype Illustrations 



NATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY ''^^' ^ 
230 LEVANT Street 
Philadelphia 



-d"' 






Kntcred according to Act of Congress, in the year 1897 bv 

(;. W. EERTRON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, I). C, 

All Rights Reserved. 









INTRODUCTION 







" '^^ F making many books there is no end." This we are told by the 
wisest of men, and the phrase mighi well be quoted with reference 
to cook books. Yet, in itself, is this fact a token that there 
is a recognized need of, and a reaching out for the coming cook book; 
the Scientific and Hygienic Treatise on Cookery that shall be an aid 
to health and happiness in each household where its influence is felt, 
and thus it comes to pass that there is always a market for the new cook book. 

In pursuance of this idea, the pages of this book have catered not sim- 
ply to the wants of the rich, who are usually provided with high-price chefs 
to plan their daily menu, but have sought to prove a trusty guide, also, to 
that great body of people who must clothe, feed and house their families on 
a very moderate stipend. Assistance and advice have been given to the 
housewife whose daily allowance is less than one dollar, as well as luxurious 
suggestions and elaborate menus for the wealthy. 

Especial care has been taken in selecting recipes for soups, sauces, and 
little luxuries, on incomes somewhat less than a millionaire's. A depart- 
ment has been given to the uses of " The Chafing Dish," that useful adjunct 
to the lunch table, the small evening gathering, or the light housekeeping, 
so prevalent in city apartments. 

"Invalid Cookery," "Marketing," "Carving," "Bills of Fare," 
" Hygienic Cookery," and all departments of household economy, have 
received their due share of attention. The departments on " Salads, ' 
*' Fruit Salads," and " Left-Overs " of all descriptions are especially full. 

We are all greatly dependent upon the state of our digestion. Napoleon 
could not rise superior to an illv-cooked dinner. Hence his Waterloo. The 
History of the French Revolution rose an 1 f -11 witli the state of Carlyle's dys- 
pepsia, and many a tracir episode in family life is superinduced by the baleful 
influence of a tortured stomach. Misfhty is the hand that holds the ballot- 
box, but mightier is the hand that wields to advantage the pepper-box, the 
salt-sppon, and the sugar-shaker Wi^e i •. the brfiin that decides upon the 
fitness or the unfitness of the laws that govern our land, but mightier is the 

5 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

power behind the throne ; the brain that decides upon the quantity and the 
quality of the food that goes to feed the strength of the law- makers. 

To these housekeepers, these home-builders, it is that such books as 
this are dedicated, and among these it is that they find their welcome. Not 
sought in the home where there is no cook book, for there their value is un- 
known ; but in the home where there are many such guides it is that each 
new arrival comes as a herald of something better and more helpful in the 
realm of cookery. And meet it is that all possible help be given to those 
Avho feed our bodies, for thereby they strengthen and uplift our souls also. 

Says Haryct Holt Gaboon : "Ask a woman what cooking means. It 
means the patience of Job, and the persistence of the Pilgrim Fathers. It 
means the endurance, the long-suffering, and the martyrdom of Joan of Arc. 
It means the steaming, and the stewing, and the baking, and the broiling, 
thrice daily, springs, summers, autumns, and winters, year afttr year, de- 
cade following decade. It means perspiration, and desperation, and resig- 
nation. It means a crown and a harp, and a clear title to an estate in hea- 
ven. From her judgment and reason the cook must evolve triumphs that 
depend upon salt and pepper, and sugar and herbs. She must know how 
soon and how long, and how much and how often. She must know quality 
and quantity and cost. She must serve the butcher, and the baker, and the 
candlestick-maker. Then she must rise above it all and be a lady — a loaf- 
giver." 

Ruskin says : " Cookery means the knowledge of Medea, and of Circe, 
and of Calypso, and of Helen, and of Rebekah, and of the Queen of Sheba. 
It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits, and balms and spices, and 
of all that is healing and sweet in fields and groves, and savory in meats. 
It means carefulness and inventiveness, and watchfulness and willingness, 
and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your great-grand- 
mothers and the science of modern chemists; it means much tasting and 
no wasting ; it means English thoroughness, and French art. and Arabian 
hospitality ; and it means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and always, 
• ladies.' ' loaf-givers.' " 

To be able to cope with difi'iculties, should the necessity arise, is the 
dntv of mc^t women. Nothing will enable them to do so more certainly 
than a thorough knowledge of the ^^'^^/.'m/ princi])les and methods and the 
carrying out of these in the preparation of the homeliest meal. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

BEEF 172 

BILLS OF FARE 583 

Biscurr 304 

BLANC MANGE 417 

BUNS 307 

BREAD 294 

CAKES 364 

CANDIES 541 

CANNED FRUITS 479 

CARVING 17 

CATSUP AND SPICED FRUITS 322 

CHAFING DISH COOKERY 333 

CHEESE DISHES 344 

CHICKEN 135 

CLAMS 92 

COOKIES 398 

COOKING FOR INVALIDS 554 

CORN CAKES 312 

CRABS 97 

CRACKERS .... 318 

CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES 419 

crooup:ttes 26I 

CRULLERS 395 

CUSTARDS 415 

DESSERTS 424 

DOUGHNUTS 395 

DUCKS 146 

DUMPLINGS 338 

EGGS 218 

ENTREES 349 

FISH 103 

FRITTERS 268 

FROGS' LEGS 155 

FRUIT SALADS 440 

GAME 149 

GEESE 144 

GEMS 308 

GINGERBREADS 401 

GRIDDLE CAKES 314 

7 



8 CONTENTS. 

Page 

HARE 154 

HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC 204 

ICES AND ICE CREAM 507 

JELLIES 465 

KIDNEYS 184 

LOBSTERS 86 

MEATS 161 

MUFFINS 309 

MUTTON 190 

OYSTERS 68 

PARTRIDGES 155 

PICKLES 492 

PIES AND PASTRY 353 

PIGEONS 156 

POISONS AND ANTIDOTES 574 

PORK 195 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN 159 

PRESERVES AND JA^IS 442 

PUDDINGS 405 

QUAIL 157 

RABBITS 152 

REMEDIAL FOODS 582 

ROLLS 305 

RUSKS 307 

SALADS 277 

SALLY LUNN 31-2 

SAUCES AND GRAVIES 319 

SCALLOPS . . 100 

SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY 575 

SHORTCAKE . . 341 

SOUPS, HOW PREPARED 31 

SQUIRRELS I''i4 

TABLE DRINKS 524 

TERRAPIN 101 

TOASTS 330 

TRIPE 1^2 

TURKEY l-''0 

TURTLE 1^'^ 

VEAL ^^'^ 

VEGETABLES : • • ^^^ 

VENISON '•''' 

WAFFLES ^^^ 

WOODCOCK 1^^ 




To WE 



intense heat. 



Carving is really an art, and should be cul- 
tivated as one, for much of the success of a 
good dinner depends upon it, but whether the 
bad carving so often met with is really due, as is 
sometimes said, to stupidity, awkwardness, or 
laziness, is an open question. Practice has much to do 
with it, and a good knife much more. The carving- 
knife should be very sharp, and kept for this use alone. 
A fine steel knife should never come in contact with 
Table carving-knives should never be used around the 
kitchen range, or for cutting bread, meats, or vegetables. The dish 
upon which the meat or fowl is served should be of sufficient size to 
allow room for the carved slices before serving. If this is not the 
case, another dish should be provided for their reception. 

When carving, a chair should be used slightly higher than the 
ordinary dining-chair, as this gives a better purchase for using the 
carving-knife and fork, and is more graceful than standing, which is 
often resorted to. Skill is the chief requisite of carving, not strength. 
The platter containing the meat should be placed opposite, and 
sufficiently near the carver to give perfect command over the article 
to be carved. Cut the meat in thin slices, laying them on one side of 
the platter, then afterward place the desired amount on each guest's 
plate, to be passed in turn by the servant. 

Gravies or sauces should be sent to the table very hot. Plates 
also should be thoroughly heated, as otherwise the eatables will soon 
get cold and the dinner will be spoiled. When serving gravies, be 
careful to place it by the side of and not over the meat. Then the 
guest can use much, or little, as preferred. It is not possible to carve 
meat in anyway without the gravy escaping, but avoid hacking and 
chopping, which results in a dish full of gravy. 

In serving any fowl or meat that is accompanied by stuffing or 
dressing, guests should be asked if a portion is desired, as there are 
some to whom the flavor is disagreeable. Do not heap plates too 

full, and keep each article separate, thus insuring a good appearance. 
2 17 



18 



HOW TO CARVE. 



marks at c. 
more general 
slices should 



Sirloin of Beef. — A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm 
stroke, from end to end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the 
cut very clean and even. Then disengage it from the bone by a 
horizontal cut exactly to the bone, using the tip of the knife. Every 
slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to 
the very end. Many persons cut the under side whilst hot, not reck- 
oning it so good cold ; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the 
mode of carving it. The best way is first of all to remove the fat b, 
which chops up well to make puddings, if not eaten at table. Then 

the under part can be cut, as al- 
ready described, from end to end, 
or downwards, as shown by the 
The latter is the 
method, and the 
be rather thick ; 
those from the top should be thin. 
If only the fillet is eaten while hot, 
c Sirloin of Beef. the top of the joint should be 

glazed, and the dish garnished with fresh parsley and scraped horse- 
radish ; it will then furnish a most appetizing cold dish. 

Ribs of Beef. — To carve ribs of beef, a sharp knife is necessary, 

and if it is run along between 
the meat and the bones, the 
carving will be more cleanly 
and quickly done. The slices 
should be thin, and cut from 
A to B, as shown in the illus- 
tration. Unless this is well- 
carved, it is a wasteful joint, 
and it is more economical to 
cut the end off to a greater 
extent than is usually done, 
or it becomes dry and over- 
done by the time the thick 





Ribs of Beef 



part is cooked. This can be boiled fresh, or may be salted sepa- 
rately, or with another lean piece of meat, and if the two are 
cooked and eaten together a very good dish for breakfast may be 
had at little cost and trouble. If, however, the butcher is rec^uested, 



HOW TO CARVE. 



19 




Ox Tongue. 



he will cut the rib short before sending it home, but a trifle more 
per pound must be paid for it if the thin end is not taken. {Sei: dot- 
ted line in the illustration. It indicates the portion which may 
advantageously be removed.) 

Ox Tongue. — The illustration shows an ox tongue as generally 
served, garnished plainly with a paper frill, some parsley or water- 
cress, and some scraped horse-radish, but the latter may be dispensed 
with. Perhaps the most common way of carving is to make a cut 
near the centre of the tongue, carrying the knife only about three- 
fourths down, and then taking slices 
from both sides until the root and tip 
are reached. This is wasteful — the 
fat left on the dish becomes discol- 
ored by the time the tongue is con- 
sumed ; and a more economical way 
is to cut the tongue right down 
through the middle, then take slices 
thinly from both sides. As has been already said, superfluous fat 
should be cut off before it is dished ; then the probability is that not 
more than will be eaten is left on. When the meal is over, the two 
parts should be pushed together, to prevent dryness. Any fat which 
may be left, so long as it is sweet, will come in useful for mixing 
with lean beef, or other meat for potting. 

Breast of Veal. — This rightly consists of two parts, the best end, 
and the brisket end; it may be bought whole, or in parts; the brisket 
end being a little cheaper. In carving it much depends upon the 
method of jointing adopted by the butcher. If the ribs have been 
broken across, long slices may 
be cut as shown in the diagram 
from A to B ; or the rib can be 
cut right through from c to d, 
then divided at the broken bone 
A B. If the rib bones have not 
been broken, the ribs have to 
be served whole ; the pieces are 
then somewhat awkward-looking 
on the plate. The gristly portion may be cut as shown in h h, 
and in a well-cooked breast this is very inviting and tender. 




20 



now TO CARVE. 




Neck of Veal. — The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good 
roasting piece ; it, however, is quite difficult to carve, unless it is 

done properly. To attempt to carve 
each chop and serve it, would cause 
you to place too large a piece upon 
the plate of a person you intend to 
serve. The correct way, therefore, 
to carve this roast is to cut diagonally 
from figure 1 to 2, and help in slices 
Neck of Veal. of moderate thickness; then it maybe 

cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones. 

Fillet of Veal. — A sharp knife is required ; it should be thin, and 
drawn lightly across the meat, without too much pressure. It should 
follow the line A, b, c, d, and when once the meat has become flat at 

the top, it can be kept even by exercising 

a little care. A portion of stuffing should 

be given with each help, and as some 

usually falls into the dish at starting this 

should be kept in reserve for the time 

when there is less ; that is, when the 

lower part of the joint is reached. The 

Fillet of Veal. outside brown slice is by many considered 

the best, and the honored guest should be asked if he prefers it. 

Fillet of veal has a tendency to crumble, therefore an ordinary knife, 

especially if blunt, will not answer in carving it. 

Knuckle of Veal. — This is often boiled, and is delicate, though 
rather insipid, unless flavor is imparted by the addition of vegetables. 

The usual time for cooking is not long 
enough for this, owing to its gelatinous 
nature. When boiled, long, slow cooking, 
and careful skimming are important. A 
stewed knuckle is excellent. A roasted 
knuckle is not to be recommended, unless 
the fleshy portion only is cooked, the 
knuckle-bone being used for stock, for 
which it is very useful, and should be used 
while quite fresh. The illustration shows 
the method of carving, which is very simple, 





Knuckle of Veal. 



" We can live without books, we can 

Live without wining, 
But where is the man who can 

Live without diningr " 



y 







HOW TO CARVE. 21 

slices being cut from a to b. The thick part is the best ; the fat is 
very dehcious ; but by some the tendons about the knuckle are 
preferred. 

Calf's Head. — To carve the head, commence with long slices, 
shown by the dotted lines a to b. With each of these, serve a cut of 
what is called the throat sweetbread ; this lies at the fleshy part of 
the neck end. Cut also some slices from c to d ; they are very 
gelatinous and delicate ; a small portion should be served to each 
person. The tongue and brains are, as a rule, put upon a separate 
dish ; thin slices of the tongue should be given to each, together 
with a spoonful of the brains. The flesh round the eye is considered 
the tit-bit by some people, and deep in the sockets are other choice 
bits. To remove these, make a 
circular cut in the part marked e. 
First put the knife in slanting at F, 
inserting the point at the dotted e 

line, and driving it into the centre ^5s^'~^^^^3 




under the eye ; then turn the hand ^^.^-a--,-- -^ - s\i 

round, keeping the circle of the / W^^^f^v—i^^^^y^^-}----- 

dotted line with the blade of the ( |^^^--"---------"--'-----^^^^^^^ 

knife, the point still in the centre. 
The eye will come out entire, cone- 
shaped at the under part, when the 
circle is completed by the knife. ^^^^'^ ^^^^• 

The lower jaw must next be removed, beginning at g; and to do this 
properly the dish must be turned. The palate is also considered a 
dainty, and a little of it should always be offered to each guest. 
Some people find it easier to carve a calf's head if divided, and 
each half laid flat on a dish. 

Haunch of Mutton. — Unless this joint has been well hung it will 
be tough and insipid. A haunch of good mutton, in fine, clear, frosty 
weather, may be kept a month ; but in damp weather it will require 
much attention on the part of the cook to keep it from getting 
tainted in half the time. The great point is to keep it dry, by dusting 
it first with flour, which should be rubbed off several times with a dry 
cloth, and again renewed. When to be cooked, skin the loin, and 
wipe dry ; then cover with white paper, or make a common paste of 
flour-and-water for the joint. Put it on the spit, or hang before a 




22 HOW ro CARVE. 

good, even, vigorous fire for the first half hour, basting it constantly 
with good meat-dripping. When within half an hour of being done, 
take off the paper, and brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with 
flour, and baste copiously with butter, but first pour the dripping 
from the pan ; sprinkle with a little salt, and send it to table finely 
frothed. Make a gravy in the pan with what has dripped from the 
meat and a little boiling broth drawn from mutton trimmings ; salt 
and pepper. Time, from twelve to fifteen minutes per pound; well 
done, eighteen minutes. To carve this, make a cut from a to b ; then 
take off the slices as shown from c to d. A frill put on the knuckle 
improves the appearance, and, if liked, the meat can be glazed. 

AnotJicr zvay. — After taking off the 

skin and as much fat as may be neces- 

^^ ^.^^ sary, the skin may be put back until 

, ^ ^^ the time for browning and frothing the 

' M^/ / meat. If the mutton is lean, and it is 

^ "lir % '// not thought necessary to take off any 

fat from the top, simply baste the 

meat, and cook it minus paper or paste ; 

Haunch of Mutton. u 4. •*. n *. n u r n 

but it will not generally be near so lull 

of flavor. If this method is followed, the basting must be almost 

incessant. 

Fore-quarter of Lamb. — To carve, separate the shoulder; see 

A A A in the diagram. This is then 

i. M transferred to another ]iot dish, some 

Q .- V" 4 <^ y lemon juice being squeezed over the 

^..•- """^ / breast, the lemon first dipped in the 

/^l \ / \\ cayenne. Then separate the ribs 

'^^l ^'« \\ I and brisket, and cut the ribs through ; 

A'*-.\ J see c B. The guests should be asked 

-=»„j^ V^ if they prefer ribs or brisket. The 

shoulder may not be required at all 

while hot, the other parts being 
Fore-quarter of Lamb. ,, /- ^ i 

usually first chosen. 

AnotJier way. — Put slices of bacon over the thick part of the 

lamb, and brush the thin part with clarified butter before roasting. 

Ikfore dishing, take the bacon off and dredge with crumbs; let them 

brown well, then serve. 




HOW TO CARVE. 



23 




Saddle of Mutton. 



Saddle of Miuttou. — This is a very popular roast. A saddle of 
mutton, if hung in a cool airy place, will improve with keeping from 
one to three weeks, according lo the weather ; but as this part of the 
sheep is the most tender and delicate, it may, if liked, be roasted in 
from four to five days. If not for a large family, get the joint well 
trimmed ; the flaps, tail and chump end may be cut away, which will 
considerably lessen the weight, and be 
found more advantageous to the pur- 
chaser, even at a higher price per pound, 
or the flap will make a plain stew. In its 
entire state it is considered an expensive 
joint, consequently people of moderate 
means and family, unless so accommo- 
dated by the butcher, can seldom order it. 
All superfluous fat must, in any case, be 
removed, and the joint covered with a 
greased paper. Roast as directed for a loin of mutton. It should be 
a nice brown when done, but not too dark. About twenty minutes 
per pound will be required. Laver is a good accompaniment to roast 
mutton. Good gravy and hot jelly must not be omitted. The an- 
nexed diagram shows the mode of carving, which is quite simple, 
straight slices being cut from a to b. Relays of hot plates and gravy 
should be in readiness, and very little gravy should be put upon the 
dish. A hot-water dish, as used for venison, is the best to serve 
mutton on. 

Shoulder, Boned and Rolled. — In the diagram is shown a 
shoulder of mutton (lamb or veal) as it will appear when the bones 
(knuckle excepted) are removed. It 
may be stuffed, and then roasted, or 
cooked as desired. It is a nice-look- 
ing dish, and easy to carve. We wish, 
too, to call attention to the method of 
tying it, as well as to the joint itself, 
as it illustrates clearly the way of ^ 
binding anything of a similar kind, ^^ 
and can be more easily followed than 
any written description. Calf's head, ox cheek and galantine.s of all 
sorts should be tied thus with tape, not string. 




24 



HOW TO CARVE. 




Shoulder of Mutton. 



As to the boning, we can only repeat our advice to keep the knife 
close to the bone, and avoid piercing the outer flesh. The accom- 
pHshed boner nia}^ hke to bone the knuckle also, then draw the meat 
inside, and so give the joint a still more compact appearance. 

Slioulder, to Carve. — Simple as is 
the carving of this to the experienced 
hand, it is a joint which some find rather 
\z difficult to serve evenly and fairly. In 
the illustration cuts are made as shown 
from A to B. The joint will then open, 
and leave a triangular space ; slices must 
then be removed from A to B and c to b 
until the bone is reached ; then slices 
must be taken from the meat on the 
under-side, by turning the shoulder over, and cutting horizontally, 
like a round of beef 

LiOiu of Mutton. — This is generally served in chops, though not 
always, and must be carefully jointed, or the carver will have to 
turn the knife about until the place is found for the division of the 
bones ; this produces a raggy appearance. 

The kidney and kidney-fat are great delicacies, and a portion 
should be put upon each plate. If the loin is large, one chop may 
make two small helps, by putting the under-cut with the end, and 
serving the bone and upper part together. Tlie most economical 
way of serving this is to bone it, then roll and carve it like a fillet, 
which see. A saddle of mutton or double loin is two loins cut off 
before the carcass is split open down the back. French chops are a 
small rib chop, the end of the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat 
cut away from the thin end, leaving the round piece of meat attached 
to the larger end, which leaves the small rib-bone bare. Very tender 
and sweet. Mutton is /r/;;/^ when cut from a carcass which has been 
fed out-of-doors, and allowed to run upon the hillside ; they ar'j best 
when about three years old. The fat will then be abundant, white 
and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of a clear red color. 

ILeg of Mutton. — In carving a leg, turn the knuckle to the left, 
plant the fork firmly on the side of the joint, and begin by cutting 
across near the middle to the bone in the direction from 1 to 2, 
and slices may be taken from either side. 



HOW TO CARVE. 



25 




Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, 
md the fat on this ridge is very much Hked by many. The cramp- 
bone is a dehcacy, and is obtained by 
cutting down to the bone at 4, and 
running the knife under it in a semi- 
circular direction to 3. The nearer 
the knuckle the drier the meat, but 
the under-side contains the most finely 
grained meat, from which slices may 
be cut lengthwise. ^^^ of Mutton. 

Anotlier way. — A leg of mutton must be placed with the knuckle 
toward the left hand ; you then cut into the side farthest from you 
toward the bone, b to c, helping thin slices from the right and thick 
.;lices toward the knuckle. The little tuft of fat near the thick end is 
a delicacy and must be divided among your guests. 

The ordinary method consists 
in cutting straight across, like a 
leg of pork. The slice containing 
the kernel, and piece of fat called the 
Pope's eye, is considered the best. 
To carve this haunch-fashion the 
slices must be cut parallel with the 
bone. A nice leg of mutton, hung — 

as long as consistent with weather, ^®^ ^^ Mutton, 

and served with really good gravy, currant jelly, well-cooked vegetables 
and hot plates, will, if carved thus, compare very favorably with the 
more aristocratic haunch. More than one writer asserts that if carved 
out of sight of the guests, not more than one in twenty would know 
the one from the other. Whether this be true or not, the experiment 
is certainly worth a trial, particularly as the cost is not increased. 

Sucking- Pig-. — A sucking pig is usually sent to table in two 
halves, back to back on the dish ; a part of the head, and one ear, 
being placed at each end. The carver separates the shoulder, then 
the leg, from each half. These joints are cut in the ordinary way, 
and the ribs are cut straight down. As in carving generally, the 
various tastes of those present should be ascertained ; for while the 
pig is altogether very delicious, most people have a decided prefer- 
ence for some particular part of it. 




^e 



HOW TO CARVE. 




Ham. 



The shoulders are often left untouched. They are excellent when 
re-heated by grilling or broiling. They may be whole or cut up. In 
either case, season them, dip into melted butter, then into fine 
crumbs. If whole, see that it is heated through without becoming 
too brown ; frequent turning, and a sj)rinkling of butter now and then 
are necessary. Serve any sharp sauce with this dish. 

Htiiii. — This is carved easily, and 
requires no great skill. The slices 
should be cut thin, from 1 to 2 and 
from 4 to 5, as shown in the accom- 
panying diagram. 

Haunch of Venison. — To carve 
this is not a very difficult task. In 
carving a haunch of venison, first 
cut it across down to the bone in 
the line, a b ; then turn the dish with the knuckle furthest from you, 
put in the point of the knife, and cut down as deep as you can in the 
direction shown by the dotted lines, a to c ; you may take out as 
many slices as you please on the right and left. The knife should 
slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the gravy will be 
received in the well. It is held by genuine epicures that some parts 
of the haunch are better flavored than others, but it is doubtful 
whether ordinary palates will detect any difference. Slices of veni- 
son should not be cut thick, 
J, g, and plenty of gravy should be 
jS^ given with them. The fat is 
very apt to get cool soon, and 
become hard and disagreeable 
to the palate. For this reason, 
very quick carving is absolutely 
necessary for this joint. The 
long slices contain most fat at the loin end. The outside knots of 
brown fat are much esteemed by most people. It should be remem- 
bered in carving, that to please one's guests in the matter of serving 
the various parts of a joint, is as much the duty of the carver as it is 
to cut the meat to the best advantage ; and this may be done without 
disfiguring the joint, by the exercise of forethought in requesting 
those present to express their preference. 




Haunch of Venison. 



HOW TO CARVE. 



27 



Hare, Roasted. — Insert the point of the knife under the shoul- 
der, and cut from that down to the rump, along the sides of the back- 
bone. The slices should be moderately thick. Another way of 
carving hare is to remove the shoulders and legs, and cut the back 
crosswise into four or five pieces. This, however, can only be done 
when the hare is very young, or when it has been boned. To sepa- 
rate the leg, put the knife between the leg and the back, and give it a 
little turn inwards at the joint, 
which you must try to hit and 
not to break by force. The 
shoulders must be taken off by 
cutting in a circular line round 
them. These last are known as 
the sportsman's pieces ; some 
prefer them, but sometimes they 
are thought little of, and are 
served only when the other por- 
tions of the hare are exhausted. 
after that come the thighs. 
head. 




Roast Hare. 



The most delicate part is the back ; 
When every one is helped, take off the 
The upper and lower jaw should be divided by inserting the 
knife between them ; this will enable you to lay the upper part of the 
head conveniently on the dish. That being done, cut it in two. 
The ears and brains are highly prized by connoisseurs. With each 
slice of hare some of the stuffing should be served, and some of the 
gravy should accompany it. A bit of bacon must be put on each 
plate, and a forcemeat ball sent to table with it. 

Fowl, Roasted. — Insert the knife between the leg and the body, 
and cut to the bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if 
the bird is not old, the joint will give 
way. The wing is next to be broken 
off, and this is done in the direction 
of A to B, only dividing the joint with =^ 
the knife. The forequarters having ^ 
been removed in this way, take off 
the merry-thought at d, and the neck- Roast Fowl, 

bones ; these last are to be removed by putting the knife in at c, and 
pressing it, when they will break off from the part that sticks to the 
breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl, by cutting 




28 HOW TO CARVE. 

through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. 
Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife into the bone mid- 
way between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it 
will separate readily. Turn the rump from you, and take off very 
neatly the two side bones, which completes the operation. The breast 
and wings are considered the best parts of a roast fowl, being very 
tender, but in young birds the legs are the most juicy. In the case 
of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast, just as is 
done when carving a turkey. Give part of the liver with each wing, 
and some stuffing to all, unless objected to. 

Fowl, Boiled. — This is cut up in a similar manner to roast fowl. 
Care should be taken to cut plenty of the breast meat off with the 
wings; the knife should be drawn, and much downward pressure 
avoided, as the flesh is apt to crumble. Sometimes the legs are 
taken off before the wings. A very large fowl should be served like 
a turkey, which sec. If little sausages be put about the dish, serve 
one with each portion of fowl. 

Partridg-es. — The method depends upon the quantity of birds at 
the disposal of the carver, and the nature of the meal. If there is 
enough, and the birds are small, they should be cut right through, and 
half a bird given to each, supposing the occasion to be a bachelors' 
supper or a game dinner. When the party is a large one, and small 
helpings only are possible, carve like a fowl, but give some breast 
meat with each portion, the breast being so highly and deservedly 
esteemed. 

Grouse. — If there be ample for all, a grouse may be cut in halves 
by putting the point of the knife downwards, near the leg end of the 
breast, and splitting the breastbone in two along the keel, and cutting 
through the back. If small portions only are to be served, carve 
like a fowl, or take some slices from the breast, cutting well up to 
the wing, then take off the leg and wing. Try to serve a portion of 
the back with each piece, the back part being so much esteemed by 
all lovers of game. 

Turkey. — A turkey having been relieved from strings and skewers 
used in trussing, should be placed on the table with the neck at the 
carver's right hand. An expert carver places the fork in the turkey, 
and does not remove it until the whole is divided. First insert the 
fork firmly in the lower part of the breast just forward of fig. 2, then 




" Better is a dinner of herbs where 
love is, than a stalled ox and hatred 
therewith." 




HOW TO CARVE. 29 

sever the legs and wings on both sides, cutting through the joint 
next to the body, letting these parts lie on the platter. Next, cut 
downward from the breast, from 2 
to 3, as many even slices of the 
white meat as may be desired, plac- 
ing the pieces neatly on one side of 
the platter. Now unjoint the legs 
and wings at the middle joint. 
Make an opening into the cavity of 
the turkey for dipping out the inside Turkey, 

dressing, by cutting a piece from the rear part 1,1, called the apron. 
Consult the tastes of the guests as to which part is preferred; if no 
choice is expressed, serve a portion of both light and dark meat. 
One of the most delicate parts of the turkey are two little muscles 
lying in dish-like cavities on each side of the back, a little behind the 
leg attachments; the next most delicate meat fills the cavities in the 
neck-bone, and, next to this, that on the second joints. The lower 
part of the leg (or drumstick, as it is called) is rarely ever helped to 
any one, being hard and tough. 

Duck. — In carving a duck, due regard must be had to its size 
and condition; a large, fat duck may be cut up like a goose, viz., in 
thin slices from the breast, then the wings are removed ; the carver 
should, however, leave part of the side of the breast attached to each 
wing. Next the legs are cut off, then the neck-bone. The breast- 
bone is separated by cutting through the sides, and the back-bone is 
divided in two by cutting downwards. But in the case of a poor, 
skinny duck, to attempt to cut slices from the breast is to betray its 
condition; then the wings should come off at .starting. With each 
helping .some stuffing should be served, the skin being first cut across 
between the legs, that it may be taken out with a spoon. 

Goose, Roasted. — Begin by turning the neck end of the goose 
towards you, and cutting the whole breast in long slices from one 
wing to another. {See the lines a, b.) To take off the leg, insert 
the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body. Put 
the knife in at a, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young, it will 
easily come away; if old, we will not answer for it. To take off the 
wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close 
to the body; put the knife in at b, and divide the joint. When the 



30 



HOW TO CARVE. 




leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other ; but, except 
when the company is very large, it is seldom necessary to cut up the 
whole goose. The back and lower side bones, as well as the two 
side bones by the wing, may be cut off; but the best pieces of a 

goose are the breast, and the 
thighs after being separated 
from the drumstick. Serve a 
little of the seasoning from the 
inside, by making a circular slice 
in the apron at c. Should there 
be no stuffing, a glass of port or 
Roast Goose. claret may be poured into the 

body of the goose, at the opening made in the apron by the carver. 

The unpleasantness arising from eating sage and onion stuffing 
used for roast goose may be in a great measure prevented by putting 
in the centre of the stuffing, before the bird is cooked, a lemon with 
the yellow rind taken off, and as much of the thick white skin left on 
as possible. Before the goose is sent to the table, the flap should be 
opened and the lemon taken out and at once thrown away. The 
lemon will have absorbed a great part of the impurities, which other- 
wise would have remained in the stuffing. Care should be taken not 
to cut the lemon so that the juice could escape. 

Pigeons, Trussed. — Pigeons need to be very carefully plucked 

and cleaned, and they should, if 
■ ~^' ~~ possible, be drawn as soon as they 

are killed. To truss for roasting : — 

Cut off the head and neck, cut 

]Z= off the toes at the first joint, and 

wash the birds well. Dry them 

carefully, truss the wings over the 

" --__^^^^^-'^=¥>£--j;^^f- V-J" back, and pass a skewer through 

"~ ^^--^---^-^s^— ^-=^" ^j^g v^^ings and body. The gizzard 

Pigeons, Trussed. ^^^ ^^ cleaned, and put under one 

of the wings. To truss for boiling: — Cut off the legs at the first 

joint, put the legs into the body, and skewer the pinions back. 

To carve a pigeon, cut through the breast and back-bone; or 
make three portions of one bird, by taking the leg and wing from each 
side, the breast making a third serving, not to be despised if plump. 





Soup-Stock. — Soup-stock in reality 
forms the basis of all soups and of the 
principal meat sauces and gravies. This 
consonune (clear soup) is made of the cheaper portions 
of fresh meat, together with the bones and trim- 
mings of roasts, which should always be sent home 
meat market. The bones should be cracked and 
it addition to the strength and thickness of the soup. 
Where they are used in abundance the stock will become a jelly 
when cold. The flesh of an old animal has more flavor than that of 
a young one ; and brown meats contain more than white. 

Mutton is almost too strong in flavor to be used alone for stock, 
and veal, while having much of the glutinous quality, furnishes little 
nutriment. Veal alone is useful in making the colorless stock needed 
as a foundation for the more elaborate soups. Calves' feet added to it 
will give an added consistency, without heightening the color. Where 
color is not an objection, the addition of remnants of roast meats to 
the stock-pot gives richness to the flavor. 

How Prepared. 

Stock is prepared by extracting the juices from meat by slow 
boiling. It is kept on hand, and by adding varied ingredients almost 
any variety of soup can be made. The cheaper portions of meat are 
used. The shin bone is generally chosen, but the neck contains more 
substance, and makes a stronger, more nutritious soup, than any 
other portion of the animal. 

Allow one quart of cold water to one pound of meat and bone. 
Put the meat over the fire in a covered kettle, and allow it to simmer 
slowly for four or five hours, in order that the essence of the meat 
may be drawn out thoroughly. Skim carefully from time to time, 
and never let it boil rapidly. If more water is needed, supply it with 
boiling water from the tea-kettle. If the meat is cut in pieces and 
the bones cracked, the juices will be more thoroughly extracted. 
Never salt it until the meat is tender, as that hardens and toughens it, 
especially if the meat is to be eaten. 



32 



SOUPS. 



Add a little salt and pepper and strain through a sieve or napkin 
into a stone jar. The fat will rise in a cake to the top, when it can 
be removed. One nice way is to pour the stock into several small 
bowls. Then leave the cake of fat over the top of each one until 
needed for use. In this way the stock is kept fresher. Never use 
tin or iron vessels to put away soup stock, and a porcelain-lined kettle 
with a closely-fitting lid is preferable for all soups. More than one 
variety of meat adds to the flavor of the stock broth and should be 
used whenever practicable. 

Fats removed from the stock can be clarified for use by melting 
over the fire until all the water is extracted, when it may be poured 
into a jar for use. Stock like this can be kept many days in cold 
weather. To make soup of it, take out a portion of the clear jelly in 
the stock jar, add water, and whatever additional ingredients may be 
desired, such as barley, rice, macaroni or vegetables, as may be desired. 
Cook and thicken as desired. It is best to partly cook vegetables 
before adding the stock, a.s much boiling injures the flavor. Season 
to taste, boil a few moments and serve hot. 

Soup Stock. — II. Five pounds of beef, skin, or neck, or other 
cheap piece, or the same amount of knuckle of veal, or half beef 
and half veal. Add to this any bones, trimmings of poultry, or 

fresh meats, a quarter of a pound of lean 
ham, 2 onions (stick several cloves in 
the onions), 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1 head of 
celery, 2 tablespoons full of salt, 1 bunch of 
savory herbs (except sage), and 6 quarts of 
cold water. Simmer it gently for five or 
six hours. Skim carefully. Strain into a 
jar. When cold, remove the fat. This 
stock will keep for many days in cold 
weather. Salt and pepper it slightly. This 
cannot be made in a hurry. 

This stock is the basis for soups, and 
makes an excellent gravy for hash and 
meats. Add to this stock, vegetables, etc., as in the first recipe for 
soup stock. Always guard against having too much fat in the soup. 
Assuming care in the first stage, the uhimate success of a soup is 
certain if the seasonings are judiciously added. 




Soup Tvween. 



SOUPS. 33 

Economical Soup Stock. 

The economical housekeeper will learn to utilize whatever trim- 
mings are left in the refrigerator. Cooked or uncooked meat, left- 
over portions and bones of roasted fowls, bits of vegetables, portions 
of grains, such as barley, wheat, oatmeal, left from the breakfast, out- 
side stalks of celery, etc., etc. The tough ends of porter-house 
steaks, cooked or uncooked, and all the bones and ends of roasts 
and chops. 

Put these in the stock kettle, cover with water in the proportion 
of 1 pint to 1 pound of meat, this being the proportion for cooked 
meat. Let simmer four or five hours. Then the liquor should be 
strained off, the meat seasoned with salt and then allowed to stand 
and harden so that the grease may come to the surface. A quart of 
soup will serve a family of six. If a plain macaroni soup is to be 
made, a quart of stock will be required, but for tomato soup only 
half that quantity is necessary. Vegetables should be added to stock 
only to give it flavor, and in summer the stock will keep longer if 
they are omitted. 

Wliite Stock must be made of veal, calves' feet, and chicken. 
Veal alone will answer. Proceed as in the first-given stock recipe. 

If soup is to be used the second day, do not leave it in the kettle 
to cool, but turn it into stone jar or china bowl. Do not cover it, as 
that causes it to sour, and before re-heating, remove the cake of fat 
that will rise to the top. This, if heated in, would injure the flavor. 

Soup Hints. — Thickened soups require more salt than a clear 
consomme. 

When soup is made of fresh meat, the meat may be served cold 
in the form of pressed beef (see recipes), force meat balls, hash, etc. 

If soup is over-salted, a teaspoonful of vinegar and an equal 
amount of sugar will help to counteract the taste. 

When soup stock is at a discount because of the large amount of 
meat used, put up a supply for warm weather emergency dinners by 
sealing in air-tight glass fruit jars when it is boiling hot. 

Soup Thickening-. — A thickened soup should be about the con- 
sistency of cream, and a clear soup should be perfectly transparent. 
Flour, corn-starch, ground rice may be used for soup thickening. 
These maybe rubbed smooth, to about the consistency of cream, with 
3 



34 SOUPS. 

cold milk, cream or water. Again, the yolks of eggs beaten up with 
water and milk may be used, instead. 

1. The thickening never should be added to the soup until it is 
just about to be served. 2. The thickening material should be mixed 
in a bowl, and there should be added to it very slowly about a cupful 
of hot soup, stirring all the time. Some cooks pour this into a sauce- 
pan and cook for about three minutes on the side of the range, stir- 
ring continually, and then add to the soup. The soup must never 
be allowed to boil after the thickening has been added, and should 
not stand more than a very few minutes before serving. Scarcely 
anything is more unpalatable than lukewarm soup. 

Puree Soups. — The term puree is applied to all vegetables cooked 
soft and pressed through a sieve. Sometimes these are served 
simply as vegetables, sometimes as sauces to meats, but most 
often they are diluted with broth, milk or water, and made into soups. 
The puree soup is one of the principal nourishing soups. It may be 
made also of fish, cooking the fish a long time and then straining it 
in the same manner as the vegetables. The general plan of preparing 
these soups is the same. 

Coloring for Soup and Gravies. 

Caramel. — Put into a saucepan a cup of sugar and a quarter of a 
cup of water. Let them boil until the syrup begins to change color; 
watch carefully. Tilt the saucepan on all sides that it may brown 
equally. When it is all nearly black, before it chars in the least, add 
a cup of boiling water. Let it boil until all is dissolved and like very 
dark syrup. Bottle for use. A teaspoonful or less of this gives a 
fine color to soup or gravy. It will also color icing for cake, and is 
always useful. This makes a brown soup. 

Spinach leaves, pounded in a mortar and the juice expressed and 
added to soups, will give a green color. 

Red is obtained by using red-skinned tomatoes, from which the 
skin and seed have been strained out. 

A fine amber color is obtained by adding finely-grated carrot to 
the clear stock when it is quite free from scum. 

Black beans make an excellent brown soup ; the same color can 
be gotten by adding burnt sugar or browned flour to clear stock. 
Only white vegetables should be used in white soups, like chicken. 



SOUPS. 35 

To make a cream soup yellow and rich the yolks of eggs are 
used. The eggs are first beaten thoroughly, and after the cream or 
milk has been added to the soup, they are stirred in just before it is 
taken from the fire. 

Clarifyiug- Soup. — Soup may be still farther clarified by beating 
up the white of 1 egg with a little water for each quart of soup. 
Boil slowly together. The egg and the sediment will rise, and may 
be skimmed from the top, leaving the soup perfectly clear. 

Flavorings for Soup. 

Celery Viueg-ar. — Soak 1 ounce of celery seed in a pint of vine- 
gar, bottle and put aside for flavoring soups and gravies. 

Bouquet of Herbs. — A spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 1 of 
savory, a sage leaf and a bay leaf tied together make what is known 
as a herb " bouquet." It will flavor a gallon of soup if cooked in it 
for an hour. When less stuff is to be flavored, less cooking of the 
bouquet is required. The sage can be omitted whenever desired. 

Herb Spirit. — Equal parts of thyme, sweet marjoram, summer 
savory, parsley and celery seed, gathered in their prime. F'ill a wide- 
mouthed bottle loosely with the fresh leaves, fill with good vinegar, 
and cork closely. After a few days pour off the vinegar into another 
bottle and cork. This will be found very convenient for flavoring 
soups. 

Dried Soup Herbs. — The coarse stalks of celery, sprigs of pars- 
ley and other soup herbs may be put to a good use by washing, 
drying and powdering fine and bottling, to be used later for season- 
ing purposes. A small bunch of fresh parsley, or 2 tablepoonfuls of 
the dried, is sufficient for 1 gallon of soup. 

To have fresh parsley all winter, put a box in the kitchen window 
and plant the seed. It can be grown all winter, and is not only nice 
seasoning for soups, but is a pretty garnish for meat and fish. 

Rolled Oatmeal is a very nice addition to soups, taking the place 
of rice or pearl barley. 

Catsups of various kinds are a nice addition to the flavoring of 
soups, but they are to be added at the table to suit the tastes of each. 

Curry Powder. — 1 ounce each of ginger, mustard and pepper; 
3 ounces each of coriander seed and turmeric ; ^ ounce each of cin- 
namon, cardamom and cummin seed ; ^ ounce cayenne pepper. Have 



36 SOUPS. 

all well powdered, mix, and keep in a tightly-corked bottle. A little 
of this will greatly improve some stews, soups and gravies. 

Curry Balls. — These are for mock turtle soup, veal or poultry 
fricassee, or any made dishes that require garnishing. Mash the 
yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and mix to a pulp with 1 heaping table- 
spoonful of good butter; season with curry powder and a little salt, 
and add as much bread crumbs as may be required to make it of the 
proper consistency ; wet your hands with cold water and make little 
balls out of the mass, making them any size your fancy dictates ; 
drop them in the soup or sauce, as the case may be, and cover the 
saucepan while it boils. When the balls rise in the pot they are ready 
to serve, and will be found as light as a feather. 

Egg- Balls (or Quenelles). — Boil 4 eggs until hard. Drop them 
in cold water, and when cool remove the yolks and mash them to a 
paste. Season with a little salt and pepper and mix the paste with 
the white of 1 raw egg. Form the paste into balls the size of a 
hazel nut, roll them in flour and fry to a light brown in hot butter 
and drop into the soup just before taking up. 

Egrg- Balls. — II. Yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, tablespoonful of hot 
mashed potatoes, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolk of one raw egg. 
Rub all together. Flour the hands. Put in the soup before taking 
from the fire. 

Croutons (or Fried Crusts). — Cut bread in slices | inch thick, 
remove the crust, butter the bread and cut in cubes J inch square, 
brown in oven, or fry in a little butter. Put them in the soup tureen 
and pour the soup over, or serve in a separate dish. 

Force-meat Balls. — Season 1 cup of any finely-chopped cooked 
meat with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley and 2 or 3 drops of onion juice. Moisten the 
meat with the yolk of an egg, roll in small balls, flour and fry in 
butter, or poach in salted boiling water. Put in soup just before 
serving, or use to garnish meats or fish. When fried they make a 
nice side dish. 

Force-meat Balls. — II. Chop any kind of cold meat, add a little 
butter, half as much fine bread crumbs, 1 raw egg, a pinch of summer 
savory or parsley. Season with pepper and salt, mix, form into balls, 
fry brown in hot fat. Put in the soup before serving, or use as above. 
One of the balls is better tested before all are made up. 



SOUPS. 37 

Eg-g- Dumplings. — One cup of flour, 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of 
water. Mix the egg and water, add a pinch of salt and stir in the 
salt, making a stiff dough. Roll thin, cut with a cake cutter, drop 
into either gravy or soup. Keep the kettle covered and boil ten 
minutes. 

Dumpling-s for Soup. — One-half pint of sweet milk, add ^ 
teaspoon of salt ; sift 2 teaspoons of baking powder with 1 quart of 
flour; stir enough into the milk to make as stiff as soft biscuit dough; 
do not mould, but when the soup boils well, dip the batter in spoon- 
fuls and keep boiling about 20 minutes ; very light and nice. 

Dunipling-s for Soup. — II. One pint of milk ; 2 eggs well-beaten, 
a pinch of salt, flour enough to make a batter that will drop from a 
spoon into the soup. Cook 10 minutes; remove to dish, dot with 
butter and serve with the meat. They can be cooked in boiling 
water and served with cold meat. 

Potato Dumpliug-s. — Sprinkle 2 or 3 potatoes with a little salt 
and plenty of flour; mash well, then drop in small bits in the boiling 
soup. 

Noodles. — One egg and a pinch of salt. Work in all the flour 
that this will take up. Roll thin as possible, and dry, then roll up 
and slice off in narrow strips. Drop in boiling soup and let boil 
fifteen minutes and serve. Chicken with noodles is good (see recipe). 

Soup Served Cold. — Make good, rich beef soup in the usual 
manner; let it cool and free it from fat. If it has formed a jelly, 
simply melt it over the stove without allowing it to get heated, and 
pour into bouillon cups half filled with cracked ice. Seasoned 
nicely, and eaten with wafers, this is simply delicious, and, with a 
salad of lettuce and wholesome Graham bread, is as healthful and 
good a lunch as one can take in August. It is also a nice soup course 
for dinner. 

Beef Soups. 

Bouillon. — Four pounds beef, chopped fine ; 4 quarts co/d water. 
Put the beef on in cold water and let it take at least an hour to come 
to a boil. Cook very slowly, simmering at the side of the stove and 
never boiling hard. Keep this up four or five hours until this water 
is reduced to about 2 quarts. Let the meat get cold in the liquor. 
All this should be done the day before it is to be used. Next day 
remove the grease and strain the liquor through a thick cloth, squeez- 



38 



SOUPS. 




ing every drop of moisture from the shreds of beef. Put the Hquor 
on the stove, bring to a boil and stir in the white and shell of an egg. 
Boil about 2 minutes and strain the soup once more. The result will 

be a clear amber-colored fluid. If de- 
sired, this may be darkened by the ad- 
dition of a little caramel. 

Of course the bouillon may be made 
weaker, but these directions will, if fol- 
lowed exactly, produce most satisfac- 
tory results. Two quarts will prove 
enough for sixteen or eighteen medium- 
sized tea cups, or for twenty after-dinner 
coffee cups. In summer it is sometimes 
iced. This, with fancy sandwiches, is 
often served at an afternoon tea. 

To make quickly : Take 1 can of 
extract of beef. Mix with 3 quarts of 
boiling water and season to taste. 

Beef Soup. — Six pounds of lean beef (shank answers very well), 
have the bones well cracked and the marrow put in the soup with 6 
quarts of water; put the beef bones and all into a close vessel with 
the water and let it heat gradually. Let it simmer six hours at least, 
only uncovering it once in a while to see if there is danger of the 
water getting too low; should this be the case replenish with boiling 
water. Set away until next morning. About an hour before dinner, 
take out the beef, which you can use for mince-meat; remove the 
cake of fat from the stock, set the soup on the fire and put in a little 
salt to bring up the scum ; when this has been skimmed off put in 
your vegetables, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1 pint of green or canned corn, 
1 head of celery, 1 quart of tomatoes; these should be prepared for 
the soup by boiling them in barely enough water to cover them until 
they break to pieces, then put them with the water in which they 
were cooked into the soup, return the pot to the fire, and boil one- 
half hour; season to taste with salt and pepper. For a family soup 
many prefer to leave in the vegetables. 

Beef Soup. — II. Break the bone of a moderate-sized shin of beef; 
cover with 5 or 6 quarts of cold water and add 1 tablespoonful of 
salt ; remove the scum and cover closely ; let it simmer slowly and 



SOUPS. 39 

steadily for 5 or 6 hours ; take out the beef, and set the stock to cool 
after straining it ; skim well the next day ; add 1 carrot, 2 small 
onions, 2 small turnips, cut in pieces, ^ pint of tomatoes, a sprig of 
parsley, a celery top, 1 small red pepper, spices to taste, and for the 
thickening 1 tablespoon of butter and browned flour, rubbed to- 
gether; place in the tureen 2 hard-boiled eggs, mashed smooth, and 
turn in the soup after straining. This soup can be made and strained 
and served the same day. All or part of the vegetables may be used. 

Cabbage Beef Soup. — Three or five pounds neck or coarser 
parts of beef chopped into small pieces. Put to boil in 5 quarts of 
cold water. When it simmers, skim ; boil slowly for four or five 
hours. Take out the meat and add 1 cup each of chopped turnips 
and cabbage and half a cup each of chopped carrots and onions, also 
1 cup of rice, boil till the rice is cooked. Cabbage may be used 
alone and the other vegetables left out if desired. 

Noodle Soup. — Put a soup-bone in a kettle half-full of water (any 
other cheap cut of meat will do). Peel and slice 2 small potatoes, 1 
turnip, 1 onion, and add to the soup. Fifteen minutes before serving 
put in the noodles and let them cook. 

French Beef Soup (Pot-au-feu). — Cut into small pieces and 
remove all the fat from S^ pounds of the cross rib or shoulder of 
beef Take a large knuckle bone that has been well-broken and put 
it and the beef in a soup-kettle and cover with cold water, using 5 
quarts at least. Heat slowly, watching it, and as soon as it is boiling 
skim carefully. When it has been thoroughly skimmed add 1 bay 
leaf, 1 red pepper or 1 dozen black pepper-corns, 1 can of tomatoes 
and 2 onions, chopped. Simmer slowly from three to four hours. 
Strain and serve clear. Color it, if wished, with a couple tcaspoonfuls 
of caramel. Turnips, carrots, and a little chopped celery can be added 
if desired. The vegetables can be left in, and the soup not strained for 
family use. If thickening is desired, wet up a tablespoonful of flour 
in a little cold water, and stir in about five minutes before serving. 

Puree of Turnips al' Espag-nol. — Pare, wash and quarter 3 
medium-sized turnips for each quart of veal broth ; to this allow a 
gill of well-washed rice, an ounce of butter, salt, white pepper and a 
lump of white sugar; simmer gently an hour; rub through a fine 
sieve ; return to the fire till scalding hot, and pour into the soup 
tureen over dice of fried bread. 



40 SOUPS. 

Family Soup. — Time, 6 hours ; 3 or 4 quarts of the hquor id 
which mutton or salt beef has been boiled. Any bones from dressed 
meat, trimmings of poultry, scraps of meat or 1 pound gravy beef, 
2 large onions, 1 turnip, 2 carrots, a little celery seed tied in a piece 
of muslin, bunch savory herbs, 1 sprig parsley, 5 cloves, 2 blades 
mace, a few pepper-corns, pepper and salt to taste. Put all your 
meat trimmings, meat bones, etc., into stew-pan. Stick onions with 
cloves, add them with other vegetables to meat; pour over all the pot 
liquor; set over slow fire and let simmer gently, removing all scum 
as it rises. Strain through fine hair sieve. 

Marrow Diiinpling- Soup. — Remove the marrow from a beef-leg 
soup-bone. Put the bone and meat on to boil in 3 quarts of cold 
water, with a sprig of parsley and a large onion, chopped fine; bring 
to a boil slowly and cook several hours : half an hour before serving 
time strain, put back over fire and season with salt and pepper. 
When briskly boiling put in dumplings made as follows : Grate 4 
large slices of stale bread ; add the marrow, 2 eggs, a little nutmeg, 
salt and pepper, I tablespoonful of flour; make into little dumplings 
the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the boiling soup. Boil fifteen 
minutes, then serve. 

Riple Soup. — For four persons take an egg, and into this, with 
the floured palms of the hands, rub as much flour as the egg will 
hold. Keep on rubbing in flour until the dough falls from the palms 
in tiny little flakes or ripples. These must be dropped into the 
boiling soup broth, flavored with salt, and left on the stove until they 
rise to the surface. This makes a thick and delicious soup. 

Glace Soup. — Take one-half loaf stale wheat bread, soak in water. 
Put a large tablespoon butter on griddle ; when hot put in the well- 
dried bread, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley and 
juice of 1 onion. Dry well and then put in a bowl, and break in 2 
eggs and mix well. Use one-half of this mixture for the balls ; roll 
in hand and make the size of marbles ; make a clear beef soup, and 
when it boils drop them in and boil two minutes. Serve at once. 

Dressing;- /or Veal — Use other half of mixture left from soup balls. 

Beef Gumbo. — To make an excellent soup with gumbo and 
meat, cut up a pound of lean beef, and put it with one-quarter of a 
pound of butter — a good grade of butterine will do quite as well — 
and 1 onion, sliced, with pepper and salt, in a soup kettle, and stir it 



SOUPS. 41 

over the fire until it is all very brown, then add 4 quarts of cold 
water, and boil gently one hour, after which put in 2 cupfuls of 
chopped okra, and simmer all for nearly four hours longer. The 
mucilaginous matter contained in the okra will serve to thicken the 
soup without the addition of flour or other like substance. 

Vsal Soups. 

Mock Turtle Soup. — The old Virginian rule for mock turtle soup 
can hardly be excelled, and, though troublesome, quite deserves to 
lead off the Christmas dinner. To make it, soak a calf's head, well 
cleaned, an hour in cold water and put on the fire in 5 quarts of cold 
water, boiling till the meat slips easily from the bones. Take out the 
head, leaving all loose bones in the pot, and remove the tongue and 
brains, putting them on separate plates to cool. Lay the face meat 
smoothly on a plate, that it may cut easily into dice when cold. 
Chop the rest of the meat very fine and reserve a cupfi;1 for force- 
meat balls. Season the rest with 1 tablespoon- 
ful of mace, 3 of salt, 1 of pepper, and return 
to the pot, simmering all for four hours and 
not allowing the broth to be less than 4 quarts. 
Two hours before it is done add two minced 
onions, fried brown in butter, and a bunch of & w . 

sweet herbs. Make force-meat balls by seasoning the cupful of meat 
very highly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a salt- 
spoonful of allspice and of mace ; work in 2 raw eggs and make the 
mixture into about 18 small balls. Flour them well and set in a hot 
oven till a crust has formed. Cut the tongue and face meat into dice 
and put into the tureen with the balls. Melt 4 spoonfuls of butter in 
a saucepan, and when it boils add 4 of sifted flour, stirring till brown 
and adding the boiling soup till it can be easily poured into the soup 
pot. It should make the soup like thick cream. The soup should 
have first been strained and returned to the pot before the thickening 
is added. Add 2 glasses of sherry, a tablespoonful of mushroom or 
walnut catsup, and a lemon sliced thin, and serve at once. Slices of 
hard boiled egg are sometimes added. It is equally good the 
second day. 

Plain Mock Turtle Soup, — Use a knuckle of veal, or 4 calf's 
feet, and 1 pound of veal ; put into the soup kettle with 3 quarts of 





42 SOUPS. 

cold water; simmer slowly, until the meat falls off the bones. When 
nearly done, add one-half teaspoonful powdered thyme or sweet 
marjoram, one-quarter teaspoonful mace, one-half teaspoonful ground 
cloves and salt. Brown 1 tablespoonful of flour in the same quantity 
of butter, stir well into the soup and strain. The next morning 
remove the fat thoroughly and warm gradually, and add yoke of 
hard-boiled egg. To this may be added force-meat balls, mushrooms, 
or thin slices of lemon. 

Consomme with Eg-g- Diimpliiig-s. — Boil 2 shanks of veal in 4 
quarts of water, add vegetables, season to taste with sweet herbs. 
When done, strain through a napkin. Color, 
if desired, with a teaspoonful of caramel, or, 
it can be turned into a jar and cooled, when the 
fat will rise to the top. This can be removed 
in a cake, and the soup can be poured off with- 
out disturbing the sediment. Boil egg dump- 
Alphabet Cutters, jj^^^^ j^^ ^^^ g^^p J 5 minutes before the soup is 

served (see recipe). The veal shanks may be made into veal loaf, or 
veal cheese. 

Veal Sovip, Plain. — A knuckle of leg of veal. Boil it with two- 
thirds of a cup of rice. Season with pepper and salt, and a little 
parsley or celery. Before the soup is seasoned, take out the veal. 
Force-meat balls or egg dumplings may be added. Thicken with a 
little flour rubbed smooth in milk or water. Turn it over slices of 
toast in the tureen. 

Tapioca Veal Soup. — Make the soup as for plain veal soup. 
Skim carefully, season. Soak | cup of pearl tapioca in a cup of 
milk. When the soup is nearly done, remove the meat, skim off 
every particle of fat and stir in the tapioca until it dissolves in the 
hot soup. Simmer half an hour, add a little celery essence and serve. 

Bonne Femme Soup. — Heat 1 quart chicken or veal stock. 
Boil 1 pint good milk. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs, add to them 
the boiling milk, and stir this into the soup quickly; do not let boil. 
Season with pepper and salt. Serve with croutons or small triangles 
of toast. 

Brown Veal Soup. — Take the liquor in which a calf's head has 
been boiled, thicken with browned flour, season with salt and spice to 
taste. Add 1 hard-boiled egg cut in pieces and 1 sliced lemon. 



SOUPS. 43 

Mutton Soups, 

Scotch Mutton Broth. — Time, three and a half hours ; 6 lbs. neck 
of mutton, 3 quarts water, 5 carrots, 5 turnips, 2 onions, 4 tablespoon- 
fuls Scotch barley, a little salt. Soak mutton in water for an hour, cut 
off scrag, and put it in stew-pan with 3 quarts of water. As soon as it 
boils skim well and then simmer for one and a half hours. Cut best 
end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with 2 bones in each; take off 
nearly all fat before putting into broth; skim the moment meat boils, 
and frequently afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into 
2 or 3 pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly 
done; stir in Scotch barley; add salt to taste, let all stew together 
for three and a half hours; about half an a hour before sending it to 
table, put in little chopped parsley and serve. 

Mutton Turnip Soup. — Leg of mutton and 5 quarts of water. 
Cover close and boil two hours. Skim. Put in 1 onion, a dozen small 
white turnips, quartered, a little thyme finely minced. Boil two hours 
longer. Take out the joint, strain the soup, return it to the fire, add 
a cup of milk in which has been stirred a tablespoonful of flour and 
1 of butter. Season with salt and pepper, boil up once, stirring all 
the time. 

Pepper Pot. — To 4 quarts of water put 1 pound of corned pork, 
1 pound of neck or scrag of mutton and a small knuckle of veal. Let 
this simmer slowly for three hours, skimming all the while, and then 
take out the mutton, which will serve as a special dish for the table 
with celery sauce. Into the broth put 4 sliced white turnips, 6 
tomatoes or a tablespoonful of tomato ketchup, an onion in thin 
slices, a little pepper and salt to taste. Add to this a ^ lb. of tripe 
in 1 inch strips, 6 potatoes thinly sliced and a dozen whole cloves. 
Simmer for an hour. Ten minutes before serving add dumplings no 
bigger than a marble. Serve hot, removing the pork and veal bone 
before serving. 

Mutton Soup with Cheese Dumplings. — Make a stock from 5 
cents' worth of soup mutton, a piece from the neck is best, form drop 
balls with ^ cupful of flour, | cupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, 1 of grated cheese, and 1 egg. Mix evenly, set in another 
basin filled with hot water, and cook about five minutes, stirring con- 
stantly; then set away to cool. When cold, roll into little balls about 



44 SOUPS. 

the size of hickory nuts. Drop into boihng water and cook gently five 
minutes, but be careful they do not break. Put in the soup tureen 
and pour boiling stock over them. A plate of finely grated cheese 
may be passed with the soup. 

Lamb Broth. — Take 3 to 4 pounds of lamb, put into 3 quarts of 
cold water, and let it simmer one hour ; be sure to skim when it first 
boils up; add f cup of rice and let it boil three hours till the meat is 
tender; stir occasionally. If the water boils away or it is too thick, 
add hot water; salt to taste, peel and slice 4 potatoes; add to broth 
half an hour before serving; very nice. If one likes it, add a little 
sweet marjoram or poultry seasoning. 

Mutton Broth. — Cut 2 lbs. of lean mutton into squares, remov- 
ing every particle of fat. Cover with 1 quart of cold water, let it come 
to the boil, and simmer slowly two hours. Twenty minutes before 
it is taken up, add 1 tablespoon of well-washed rice. Put in salt and 
pepper to taste. Add vegetables if liked, or dumplings. 

Chicken Soups. 

Chicken Soup. — Cut up the fowl and put it in a stew pan with 4 
quarts of water (cold), stew until there are but 3 quarts left. Take 
out the chicken; season the liquor and add a small cupful of rice. 
Cook rice tender. If you like, add a cup of milk and 1 or 2 beaten 
eggs just before serving. Stew, not boil, the chicken. 

Chicken Veg-etahle Soup. — Wash a fat hen. Stuff it if desired, 
truss it so it will be presentable on the table, put it into a porcelain 
kettle with 4 quarts of water, boil 2 hours ; slice 3 or 4 Irish pota- 
toes ; 1 large onion ; 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; 1 tea- 
spoonful celery-seed, and a bit of summer savory, if you have it; ^ 
red pepper-pod, salt to taste. When the soup has boiled one hour add 
the vegetables, and when nearly done put in a pint of sweet milk. 

Chicken Corn Soup. — Cut up one large fowl and boil until ten- 
der in 4 quarts of water. Remove the chicken and save 1 cupful of 
the broth. Add the kernels from 1 dozen ears of corn,, or 1 can of 
corn to the soup and stew one hour longer. Season with pepper, 
salt, and parsley or celery. Thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour 
rubbed smooth in 1 cup of milk. Let boil up and serve. Veal may 
be substituted for chicken in making this soup. 

Take the chicken and serve it with the following gravy : To the 



SOUPS. 45 

cup of chicken broth add 1 beaten egg; let it boil up and pour over 
the chicken. 

Mullag-atawny Soup. — Cut in small pieces the breast of a young 
chicken after it has cooked in soup stock. Put on the fire the carcass 
and bones of the chicken, add enough soup stock to cover it, simmer 
for one hour and strain. Fry 2 small onions in 1 ounce of butter; 
add f of an ounce of flour ; stir well ; pour the broth in the butter 
and onions; boil up; add 1 tablespoonful of diluted curry powder, 
I a cup of milk, pepper and salt. Simmer 10 minutes. Put the 
chicken meat in the soup tureen, 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, pour 
over the soup stock and serve. Some epicures insist upon rabbit for 
this soup. If used, proceed in the same fashion. 

Giblet Soup. — Wash 2 sets of giblets. Put a tablespoonful of 
butter in a frying-pan, and set over the fire. Have cut up 1 onion, 
1 carrot and 1 stalk of celery ; when the butter is hot, put these in 
and fry brown. Skim them out and put them in a soup-kettle with 
^ a gallon of water, the giblets, a pound of lean beef and a sprig of 
parsley. Set over a moderate fire, and let simmer until the giblets 
are tender; skim until clear. Rub 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of 
butter together, and stir into the soup. Take out the giblets, cut into 
pieces, and put them into the soup-tureen with the yolks of 6 hard- 
boiled eggs. Strain the soup, season with salt and pepper, and pour 
into the tureen. 

Cliickeu or Turkey Soup. — Take the bones and body of the 
fowl, after the meat has nearly all been taken off, and put it with 3 
pints of water to boil ; let it cook slowly for two hours ; by this time 
all the meat should leave the bones; if the water has boiled away, 
add more ; remove the bones ; there should be considerable meat in 
the broth ; to this add 8 good-sized potatoes and 4 or 5 onions, 2 
carrots, 2 small turnips, and salt and pepper to taste ; twenty minutes 
before serving add dumplings. Try this for supper some cold night, 
and you will agree with me that it is excellent. If there is any of 
the dressing left, add half a cupful to soup. 

Turkey Soup. — Take the turkey bones and cook for one hour in 
water enough to cover them, then stir in a little of the dressing and 
a beaten egg. A little chopped celery improves it. Take from the 
fire, and when the water has ceased boiling add a little butter, with 
pepper and salt. 



46 SOUPS. 

Gumbo Soup. — The canned okra can be used for this, or dried 
okra soaked over night, either making an excellent soup. Slice 3 
red onions fine, and fry brown in a tablespoonful of butter; add to 
this I of a pound of ham cut in dice and fry one minute, | a cup of 
washed rice, 1 can of tomatoes and the okra, and a cupful of beef 
stock, with a teaspoonful of salt and | a saltspoonful of cayenne. 
Cover and stew very slowly for not less than four hours. It must be 
stirred often, to prevent burning, as okra is very sticky. This makes 
a very thick soup. If preferred thinner, add more broth, but in the 
South it is eaten thick. To this gumbo oysters are often added, fifty 
being used and put into a pan with a spoonful of melted butter till 
very slightly browned. 

Gumbo Soup. — ^11. To a quart can of tomatoes add a gallon of 
water and set to boil several hours before the soup will be needed. 
Have ready a skillet with lard or unsalted butter that has come to 
the bubbling point. Into this drop either 1 small or ^ of a large 
chicken that has been jointed and cut up for frying, 1 onion, and a 
dozen pods of okra cut into slices lengthwise. Salt and pepper to 
taste. When this mixture is fried to a delicate brown, transfer the 
entire contents of the skillet to the vessel containing the tomatoes, 
and let the combination boil down to a thick consistency. To those 
with a peppery palate a green pepper or a red one cut up into the 
boiling mass commends itself. This same preparation may be made 
with shrimps instead of chicken. Always the result is an extremely 
rich and heavy soup. Gumbo should always be served with rice, 
not that glutinous mass which so often offends the eye and insults 
the grain on hotel tables, but rice cooked in South Carolina style, 
which is simply rice in perfection. Gumbos occupy the medium 
ground between soups and stews. 

Chicken Gumbo. — Cut up the chicken meat or game to make 
the soup. Fry in butter to a light brown with 1 onion cut fine ; 
add boiling water in proportion to the meat. 2 pounds of meat or 
chicken and | pound of ham will take 4 quarts of water. This, 
boiled down, will make sufficient for six persons. Let the gumbo 
simmer for two hours. Slice about 1 pint of green okra pods, brown 
them in the same pan after the chicken is put in soup, and add 
at once. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat in the pan ; stir until 
it browns; thin with | a cup of the liquor and stir it into the soup. 



SOUPS. 47 

Oysters are an improvement. Scald their liquor, pour into the 
soup, and let boil fifteen minutes. Add the oysters in time enough 
for them to boil up once or twice. 

Gumbo Filee. — Make as above, save in the absence of okra 1 
tablespoon of th^Jilee is added. This is a preparation of dried sas- 
safras leaves with a small quantity of pulverized bay leaves. 

Grunibo Soup, with Crabs. — Mince an onion and fry it in butter 
with an equal quantity of small dice of raw ham ; cover with a quart 
of white broth and add half of a minced green pepper, half a dozen 
sliced okras, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, and 2 tomatoes cut in dice; 
season ; cook for half an hour, simmering slowly, and add the meat 
from 2 boiled crabs or 3 soft-shelled crabs cut small. 

Meat Vegetable Soups. 

Veg-etable Soup. — Two or three pounds of lean beef and salt 
pork mixed, 1 small head of cabbage, 1 turnip, 1 large onion, 1 small 
beet ; boil separately from the meat. When the other vegetables are 
beginning to get done, add 2 or 3 potatoes. When all are done well, 
chop fine, chop the meat, put together and season. 

Suuiiuer Vegetable Soup. — To prepare this soup take 2 pounds 
of the neck of beef, a quart of sliced tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced 
from the cob, 3 pints of water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 of flour, 
and salt and pepper to suit taste. Put the meat and water into a 
soup-pot, and as soon as the liquor begins to boil, skim it carefully. 
Simmer for three hours, then add the tomato and corn cobs. Cook 
for half an hour, then strain into another kettle and add the corn, the 
flour and butter mixed together and enough salt and pepper to sea- 
son well. Cook forty minutes longer, then serve. 

Julieune Soup. — Cut ^ pint of carrots, ^ pint turnips, ]^ pint 
onions, 2 beets and y^ head of celery into small dice. Fry carrots in 
1 ounce of butter, and pour over them 2 quarts of boiling stock, then 
add the other vegetables and ^ pint peas ; stew all gently for an 
hour. 

Economical Souii. — Take a cold roast-beef bone, pieces of beef- 
steak, the remnants of a cold turkey or chicken. Put them into a 
pot with 3 or 4 quarts of water, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1 onion, a few 
cloves, pepper and salt. Boil the whole gently four hours, then 
strain it through a colander, mashing the vegetables so that they will 



48 SOUPS. 

pass through. Skim off the fat and return the soup to the pot. Mix 
1 tablespoonful of flour with 2 of water, stir it into the soup and boil 
the whole ten minutes. Serve with bits of dry toast cut into a trian- 
gular form. 

Puree of Cauliflower, or Cauliflower Cream Soup. — One quart 
of soup-stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cooked cauliflower, 1 table- 
spoonful of minced onion, salt, white pepper or Cayenne, 1 table- 
spoonful of minced parsley. Cold cauliflower can be used. If cooked 
for the purpose pick in small branches and boil in salted water until 
done. Boil the minced onion in the soup-stock. Mash the cauli- 
flower and add, together with the milk which should be boiling hot. 
Season. Thicken, if necessary, with a little flour until the consist- 
ency of thin cream. Add a lump of butter and the minced parsley. 
A puree is a thick, creamy soup where the ingredients are mashed 
fine, and the soup not strained. 

Ham Bone Soup. — Boil the ham-bone (it should have some meat 
left on it), in fresh water for about five minutes. Pour off this first 
water and cover the bone with fresh water. Cook it gently and sea- 
son to taste. Cut up potatoes fine and add to the soup. Just before 
serving pour in 1 cup of milk, thicken with a little flour. Before 
putting in the milk all fat should be skimmed from the soup. Other 
vegetables may be added if wished. If corn beef is not too salt, soup 
may be made in the same manner from the water in which it has 
been boiled. One ^^^ may be beaten and stirred stiff" with flour, 
and the mixture dropped by bits into the soup, and will be found an 
improvement. 

Bean Porridge. — Take 4 or 5 pounds of the cheaper portions of 
beef in a large kettle, cover with cold water. Let come to a boil, 
skimming at intervals. Soak 1 quart of beans over night. Put these 
over in cold water to which one-half teaspoonful of soda has been 
added. Let boil until they begin to soften. Then skim from the 
soda-water into the boiling soup. When nearly done mix ^ pint of 
corn meal, smooth with cold water and stir in, adding 2 red pepper 
pods and salt to taste. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, in the 
tureen, and turn the soup over them. This dish improves with age. 
Supply the loss by cooking with boiling water from the tea-kettle. 
When done it should be the consistency of ordinary bean soup. 

Bean and Corn Soup. — One pound of lean beef, cut in small 



SOUPS. 49 

pieces, j^ pound of salt pork, 1 quart of dried white beans soaked 
over night, 1 onion shced, 1 teaspoonful of celery salt, 1 of pepper 
and 2 of salt, a little parsley, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 can of corn, 
or the same amount of green corn cut from the ear, 5 quarts of water. 
Put everything together but the corn, and boil slowly 2 hours, or 
until the beans are soft. Half-an-hour before serving, stew the corn 
slowly in a separate sauce-pan, adding a teaspoonful of butter and a 
little salt. Strain the soup through a colander, rubbing the beans to 
a pulp. Put over the fire again and add the corn. Boil altogether a 
minute, and serve with toasted crackers. If wanted for a substantial 
meal, this soup may be made without straining. 

Bean aud Tomato Soup. — Make the bean soup after the above 
recipe, substituting in place of the corn a can of tomatoes, or the 
same amount of fresh tomatoes. Half an hour before serving put the 
tomatoes over the fire, season and stew to a pulp, rub through a col- 
ander and add to the soup. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, 
in the tureen and pour the soup over them. 

Black Beau Soup. — Take ordinary soup stock. Soak IJ cups 
of black beans all night, cook them soft in the same water and press 
through a sieve; chop the yolk of a hard-boiled egg into the tureen. 
Add the beans to the hot stock, season and pour into tureen. White 
beans can be made into soup in the same way. 

Bean Soup. — Take the bones and scraps of meat left from steaks 
and chops, boil with a pint of navy beans until the beans are tender; 
season to taste, and just before serving add a cup of milk ; let it boil up. 

Spanish Bean Soup. — Soak 1 quart of beans over night, boil them 
the next morning till tender, add 1 small white cabbage, which has 
been cut up fine, a bit of bacon, a whole red pepper and some salt; 
boil the whole for an hour. Heat some lard or drippings in a sauce- 
pan and fry in it a sliced onion ; put in the soup little by little ; stir 
often with a wooden spoon. This is a perfect representative of the 
favorite soup kept for all travelers in Spanish climes. 

Bean Porritlg-e. — Boil 6 pounds of fresh or corned beef; have 
about 6 quarts of liquor; parboil 1 quart of kidney beans; rinse 
and boil in the liquor until done; when nearly done add Ih quarts of 
hulled corn ; thicken with corn meal, to which a little flour has been 
added ; season with pepper and salt to taste. 

Baked Bean Soup. — Put them over the fire with an onion stuck 
4 



50 SOUPS. 

with three cloves and a quart of water ; boil half an hour, press 
through a sieve, return to the fire, dilute to the proper consistency 
with milk or water; stir in some bits of butter rolled in flour, and 
serve in pretty cups. 

Bean Soup with Croutons. (In French, puree de haricots aiix 
croutons.) — A puree is any kind of mashed vegetables. One-quarter 
of a pint white beans, 1 onion; butter, the size of an Q^Z) ^ teaspoon 
of salt; a pinch of pepper. Pick, wash the beans and put them over 
the fire with 1 quart of cold water. Cover the beans and let them 
boil from 3 to 3J hours. Then press them through the colander 
until nothing but their skins are left. Put the puree back in the 
saucepan over the fire, with the water in which the beans have cooked. 
If the water has evaporated during the cooking, add enough boihng 
water to make the soup of right consistency. Next add the salt, 
pepper and onions, which have been previously minced fine. Boil 
slowly for half an hour. Put the butter in the soup tureen and pour 
the soup on it, and serve with fried croutons. 

Bean Soup without Meat. — Soak quart white beans over niglit ; 
in morning pour off water; add fresh and set over fire until skins will 
easily slip off; throw them into cold water, rub well and skins will 
rise to top, where they may be removed. Boil beans until perfectly 
soft, allowing 2 quarts of water to 1 quart beans ; mash beans, add 
flour and butter, rub together, also salt and pepper. Cut cold bread 
into small pieces, toast and drop on soup when you serve. 

Macaroni or Vermicelli Soup. — Two small carrots, 4 onions, 2 
turnips, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoonful salt; pepper to taste. Royal herbs — 
marjoram, parsley and thyme. Any cooked or uncooked meat. Put 
soup bones in enough water to cover; when they boil, skim, add the 
vegetables. Simmer 3 or 4 hours, strain through colander and put 
back in saucepan to reheat. Boil half pound macaroni until quite 
tender, place in soup tureen and pour soup over it — the last thing. 

Vermicelli will only need to be soaked a short 

time — not boiled. 

Split Pea Soup. — Take 2 quarts of cold 

water, 1 cup of peas, 3 onions (if you like them), 

cut in slices, I pound of raw beef, cut up; salt 
^^^^k and pepper to taste ; boil 3 hours ; take out the 
I^ 'JFv^ beef and run the soup through a sieve ; mash 




SOUPS. 51 

it all through ; add a pint of milk and serve very hot with toasted 
bread or crackers. 

Pea Soup. — One pint of peas soaked over night ; boil in 4 quarts 
of good beef stock, with an onion, turnip and carrot, if desired ; stir 
frequently, that it may not burn ; serve with toasted bread cut in 
small pieces. 

Dried Green Pea Soup. — One pint of dried peas, 2 onions, 1 
turnip, 1 carrot, some outside leaves of celery, 1 teaspoon of salt, one- 
half teaspoon of pepper; soak the peas for 12 hours, put them on to 
boil in 2 quarts of cold rain water; wash and cut up the vegetables, 
and when the water boils add them to the peas, also the salt and 
pepper, and let all boil slowly for 3 hours ; stir often ; after that time 
pour through a sieve, rub all through that is possible, put back into 
saucepan to get quite hot ; serve with crisp toast cut into dices. 

Piquant Pea Soup. — One pint of green dried peas — or fresh ones. 
If dried, scald in a solution of saleratus water, blanch them thoroughly 
and cook gently in 2 quarts of water until tender and soft. Pass them 
through a sieve. Chop 2 onions and fry in 2 tablespoons of butter, 
add 6 cloves and 1 bay leaf and then stir all together. Put in a 
tablespoonful of salt and a cup of either canned or whole tomatoes. 
Let the whole cook very slowly for an hour, when, if it seems too 
thick, add a little boiling water and let it cook a little longer. Then 
add a pinch of red pepper and a tablespoonful of butter, and just 
before serving a cupful of squares of bread which have been fried 
brown in butter until of a pretty golden hue. 

Green Pea Soup without Meat. — Turn a can of peas into a large 
saucepan and cover them with hot water. Add a small onion sliced 
and let them boil until the peas are soft. Mash them and add a pint 
of water. Melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and stir into it 1 spoonful 
of flour. Stir until smooth and add to the cooked peas 2 cupfuls of 
rich milk. Season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Let the 
soup boil up once after the milk is added ; then rub through a coarse 
sieve and serve with tiny squares of fried bread. 

Green Pea Puree. — Steam 1 pint of fresh or canned green peas 
in 1 pint of hot water until they are perfectly soft ; rub through a 
sieve, add salt, pepper and other condiments to suit taste. Boil and 
then add a gill of cream, and then boil again, and serve with fried 
bread or toast. 



52 



SOUPS. 



Macaroni Soup (Veal). — Three pounds of a joint of veal, well 
broken up ; put in 4 quarts of water and set it to boil ; prepare ^ of a 
pound of macaroni by boiling it by itself, with sufficient water to cover 
it ; add a little butter to the macaroni when it is tender ; strain the soup 
and season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the macaroni in 
the water in which it is boiled. The addition of 1 pint of rich milk 
or cream and celery flavor is relished by many. 

Vermicelli Soup. — Boil a shin of veal in 4 quarts of water. Skim 
it very carefully, then put in 1 onion, 1 carrot and a turnip, not cut 
up, and boil 3 hours. Add salt, 2 cups of vermicelli and boil an 
hour and a half longer. Remove the bone and vegetables and it is 
ready to serve. 

Ox-Tail Soup. — Wash 2 ox tails and cut them into pieces, sepa- 
rating them at the joints. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a fry- 
ing pan, and when it becomes hot put in the pieces 
of ox-tail and an onion cut in slices and fry them 
to a light brown. Put the browned meat in a soup 
kettle, with 3 quarts of cold water, 1 bay leaf, 1 car- 
rot, sliced, a stick of celery, 4 cloves, and 6 whole 
peppers. Let them cook slowly 3 hours. Pick 
out some of the pieces of ox-tail for the tureen. 
Season the soup with salt and strain and remove 
the grease. Then reheat and add the pieces of ox- 
tail and turn into the tureen. 

Soup Neapolitan. — Five cups of well-seasoned 
stock. Make a paste of 1 egg in flour, to which a pinch of salt has 
been added. Form into balls the size of a thimble, drop in the soup 
10 minutes before serving, season with salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of 
Parmesan cheese and a little chopped parsley. 

Hasty Soup. — Chop some cold cooked meat fine, and put a pint 
into a stew pan with some gravy, season with pepper and salt, and a 
little butter if the gravy is not rich, add a little flour moistened with 
cold water, and 3 pints boiling water, boil moderately half an hour. 
Strain over some rice or nicely toasted bread, and serve. Uncooked 
meat may be used by using 1 quart of cold water to a pound of 
chopped meat, and letting it stand half an hour before boiling. 
Celery root may be grated in as seasoning, or a branch of parsley 
thrown in, 





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SOUPS. 53 

Mock Oyster Soup. — Place on the stove a teacupful of shredded 
codfish in a quart of cold water. Let simmer half an hour, add a 
pint of stewed tomatoes and a very little saleratus. Boil 5 minutes, 
add a quart of sweet milk, a slice of butter, salt and pepper. When 
it reaches the boiling point serve with crackers. 

Rice Meat Soup. — Three ounces of rice, the yolks of two eggs, J 
pint of cream or new milk, 1 quart of stock. Boil the rice in the stock, 
and rub half of it through a sieve or tammy, put the stock in a stew 
pan, add the rest of the rice whole, and simmer for 5 minutes. Beat 
the yolks and mix with the cream or milk, boiled. Take the soup 
off the fire, and add the cream and eggs. Heat to boiling point. 

Rice Meat Soup. — II. Three pints of veal or chicken or beef broth 
will be needed as a basis for this excellent soup. Wash ^ cupful of 
rice and put it on with the broth to cook. Put 3 tablespoonfuls of 
butter into a pan, and put into it when hot 3 tablespoonfuls each of 
chopped carrot, celery and onion. Let them cook slowly 20 min- 
utes, then remove the vegetables to the soup ; stir 2 tablespoonfuls 
flour into the butter left from the vegetables, add that to the soup 
with a bit of mace, 3 cloves, h teaspoon pepper and 3 teaspoonfuls 
salt. Let all simmer gently 2 hours. Strain soup, add a quart of 
rich milk heated in a double boiler, boil up once and serve. 

Game Soups. 

Puree of Game. — A very good game soup may be prepared 
from the remnants of game, even of different kinds. Boil the pieces, 
bones and all of the different birds for an hour or more in water, or 
better still, in weak broth or soup stock. Boil 3 or 4 turnips or heads 
of cauliflowers and rub or mash fine. Pound the meat fine and rub 
through a sieve to a powder, and return meat and cauliflower to the 
soup, together with 2 eggs beaten into ^ pint of milk. Let this reach 
the boiling point (but not boil), and serve hot. 

White Rabbit Soup. — Two rabbits, disjointed, 1 head celery, a 
little chopped parsley, a minced onion. Put these into 3 quarts of 
water, and boil gently until tender. Take out the best pieces of rabbit 
for a separate dish. Separate the rest of the meat from the bones, 
replace the bones in the kettle and boil an hour; strain the liquid in 
which they have boiled and let it cool. Rub the meat fine with the 
yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, and a few bread or cracker crumbs ; put 



54 SOUPS. 

through a sieve and add to the soup ; add salt and pepper to taste ; 
let it simmer 3 5 minutes, thickening with 2 teaspoonfuls of corn 
starch or rice flour. 

Brown Kabbit Soup. — Disjoint the rabbit, roll in flour and fry- 
brown in butter. Put this in a kettle and cover with 3 quarts of 
boiling water. Season with pepper, salt and parsley (add a minced 
onion if liked). Boil 3 hours. Thicken with browned flour and send 
to the table with fried crusts. 

Soup of Frog-s' Leg-s. — Take 2 dozen frogs' legs and pour over 
them lukewarm water, let them remain in it about 5 minutes, but not 
to cook, pour off the water and add equal quantities of milk and water 
sufiicient to cover, cook moderately about half an hour, simmer a 
small onion chopped, in butter, add it to the soup with 1 quart of rich 
milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of batter, a little salt and pepper, and a des- 
sertspoonful of chopped parsley; skim the legs from the soup, and 
remove the meat from the bones, put the meat into the tureen with 
a tablespoonful of thick cream and a little celery chopped very fine ; 
pour in the hot soup and serve at once. 

Game Soiip. — Two grouse or partridges, or if none of these are at 
hand, a pair of rabbits. Half a pound of lean ham, 2 small onions, 
1 pound of lean beef, 2 stalks of celery cut in inch lengths, 3 quarts 
of water. Joint the game, cut the ham and onions into small pieces, and 
fry all except the celery in butter, until a light brown. Put in a stew- 
pan with the beef, cut into bits, and a little pepper and salt. Pour on 
the water, heat slowly and stew gently 2 hours. Take out the game 
and keep warm. Cook the soup an hour longer ; strain, return to 
the stew-pan and drop in the celery. Cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes 
longer. Pour upon fried bread in the tureen. 

Venison Soup. — 'Make the same as the above, with the addition 
of a tablespoonful of browned flour wet to a paste with cold water, 
adding a tablespoonful of catsup, Worcestershire, or other sauce, 
and, if wines are used in cookery, a glass of Madeira or Sherry 
wine. 

Squirrel Soup. — Wash and quarter three or four squirrels. Cover 
with 1 gallon cold water and 1 tablespoonful salt. Put over the fire 
right after breakfast. Cover the kettle closely and set on the back 
of the stove where it will simmer slowly all the morning. Add any 
kind of vegetables as in other meat soups, corn, Lima beans, potatoes, 



SOUPS. 55 

etc. When the meat has boiled to shreds strain the whole through 
a coarse colander. Boil 10 minutes longer, thickening with butter 
rubbed in flour. Put croutons, or squares of toast in the tureen, and 
pour the soup over them. Good. 

Oyster Soup. — One quart of oysters, 1 quart of milk, ^ cup of 
butter, Yz cup of powdered crackers. When milk boils add butter, 
crackers and oyster liquor (which has been boiled and skimmed), 
then pepper and salt to taste, and finally the oysters. Cook three 
minutes longer and serve. May also season with celery salt, or a 
teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. For persons preferring the 
oysters without milk the same method may be followed, omitting 
the milk and substituting water in it place. The rolled crackers 
may be omitted also, if wished. 

Oyster Soup (Plain)." — One quart of oysters with their liquor, 2 
quarts of cold water, 1 pint of milk, 1 heaping teaspoonful of salt. 
Let the whole boil together 2 minutes. Skim out the oysters, add 
Yz teacupful of butter, a little pepper and 1 small cupful rolled crack- 
ers. Let this boil up and pour over the oysters. If there is the 
slightest danger of the milk curdling, heat it separately, and do not 
add it until the water is boiling hot. 

Oyster Cream Soup (Ricli), — Six dozen oysters, 2 quarts of 
white soup-stock, 1 cupful of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, \\ 
tablespoonfuls of flour or cornstarch, salt and pepper to taste, celery- 
salt and white pepper best. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, 
skim them out, add the stock to the oyster liquor, first straining this 
carefully to remove bits of shell, etc. Simmer for half an hour. Add 
the seasoning and 1 blade of mace if the flavor is liked ; then the 
thickening of butter and flour rubbed smoothly together. Simmer 
5 minutes. Have the cream boiling hot in a separate vessel, turn 
into the broth and pour at once over the oysters. Serve with sliced 
lemon and oyster crackers. (For stews and other oyster dishes, see 
Shell Fish.) 

Celery Oyster Soup. — Cut 3 heads of celery into small pieces, 
using both roots and stalks ; add a piece of onion as large as a hick- 
ory-nut and a sprig of parsley ; put into a saucepan with a pint of 
boiling water and boil half an hour ; put 1 quart of milk into a dou- 
ble boiler ; rub to a smooth paste a heaping tablespoonful of flour, 
and add to it, a little at a time, a Y^ cup of warm milk ; pour this 



66 SOUPS. 

into the hot milk and stir until it is smooth and creamy; remove the 
parsley and rub the remaining contents with the water through the 
colander, and add this to the milk ; add a teaspoonful of salt and half 
a teaspoonful of pepper; as soon as it boils add 2 dozen nicely- 
washed oysters ; when it reaches the boiling point again remove from 
the fire and serve. 

Oyster Bouillon. — Chop 8 large, fresh oysters to a fine mince, and 
cover them in a small saucepan with a cup of cold water and their 
own liquor, first straining. Let it come slowly to the boiling point, 
and then keep it gently simmering for no more than five minutes, 
strain into a cup and serve very hot with toast cut in squares. If 
desired, after the liquor is strained, ^ cup of fresh milk can be added, 
the whole returned to the fire until it comes to a boil. Give a light 
sprinkle of white pepper into the cup, and add a pinch of salt. This 
is nice served in fancy cups in place of beef bouillon. 

Little Neck Clam Soup. — Put 1 quart of fresh milk in a double 
boiler with a small onion and a few thin slices of carrot. Heat to 
the boiling point, then remove the onion and carrot, add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a little cold milk, a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter, a dash of cayenne and a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley. Chop 25 little-neck clams very fine and heat to a boiling 
point in their own liquor. Skim carefully. When ready to serve 
add the clams and liquor to the soup and serve at once. 

Clam Bouillon. — This now comes in cans ready for use, is en- 
riched by an addition of celery-salt and a mere squeeze of onion-juice, 
with a trifle thickened milk. Sprinkle a few fresh parsley sprigs on 
the top of each bouillon cup, and nobody will perceive the onion 
after you have left the table. It may also be made by simmering 
chopped clams in their own broth with an equal quantity of water, 
the broth strained through fine muslin and seasoned with pepper. 
If for an invalid, hot milk may be added when the broth is 
strained. Serve with toasted crackers. This is highly recom- 
mended, not only for invalids, but as a steady diet for those inclined 
to grow stout. 

Bisque of Clams. — Drain 25 clams, pouring 1 cupful of cold water 
over them. Put the liquor in a saucepan to boil ; skim, and when it 
boils up add the clams, first chopping very fine. Boil and skim 
again. Then add ^ a small cupful of rolled crackers and a table- 



SOUPS. 57 

spoonful of butter rubbed smooth with 2 of flour. Let boil slowly 
for 15 minutes. Press through a sieve and return to the kettle. 
Heat to boiling point, and add to it 1 pint of cream, previously heated 
in a separate saucepan. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. 
Serve immediately; if allowed to stand over the fire the cream is 
apt to curdle. 

Bisque of Clams with Profiteroles. — Wash and chop 1 quart of 
clams. Put into a stewpan with ^ pint of white stock (or water) 1 
slice onion, 2 blades celery, a tiny bit of mace, a bay leaf and a sprig 
of parsley. Cover; cook gently half an hour. In another saucepan 
have a pint of stock and a scant pint of stale bread crumbs. Let this 
cook very slowly 20 minutes. When the clams have cooked half an 
hour, strain the liquor from them into the pan with the bread crumbs. 
Stir and rub through a sieve. Return to the fire, add 3 tablespoons 
butter and 2 of flour rubbed together, 2 teaspoons salt, ^ teaspoon 
white pepper, 1 pint milk and 1 of cream (or 2 pints rich milk) heated 
to a boiling point. Let it boil up once, strain again and serve. With 
it pass the 

Profiteroles. — Into a saucepan put 2 tablespoonfuls butter and 
J cup boiling water. Put on the fire, and when it boils add f cup 
flour and beat well 2 minutes. Remove from fire, and when cool 
break into it 2 eggs. Beat for 10 minutes, add ^ teaspoonful salt, 
make into balls size of a pea, put them into a slightly buttered pan. 
Bake in a moderate oven 10 minutes. 

Lobster Soup. — Cut a lobster, weighing about 4 pounds, in small 
pieces. Place in a bowl 6 crackers, rolled fine, 1 cup of butter, salt, 
and a r^ery little cayenne pepper ; mix well together. Heat 3 pints of 
milk and 1 of water; stir in the mixture, boil 2 or 3 minutes, add the 
cut lobster, which should have previously been boiled for 5 minutes 
in the pint of water, and let the mixture boil up once. Use half this 
recipe for a small family. If canned lobster is used, it will not be 
necessary to boil it separately, but drain it well from the liquor in the 
can. Serve with toasted crackers. Some cooks add the pounded 
coral. This helps to give the pink color to the soup. The soup 
should be a pale pink and the thickness of good cream. 

Lobster Bisque. — 1 can of lobster and 2 cups of milk, 3 pints of 
boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, \ cup of rolled crackers ; 
salt and pepper to taste. Chop the lobster rather coarse, drop it, 



68 SOUPS. 

with the salt and pepper, in the water, put to boil and boil gently for 
20 minutes. Then add butter and milk, boil again, add cracker 
crumbs and serve. Veal or chicken broth may be used instead of 
the water, making a delicious bisque. 

Bisque of Floiiudei's. — Soup may be made of any fish, or of 
the water in which fish has been boiled, with the bones, fins, heads 
and trimmings of the dressed fish. In either case, add onion, leek, 
parsley and celery while making the stock ; thicken as you would 
any cream soup, strain, pressing the fish flesh, if any, through a 
colander; add cream, butter, and if a rich bisque is desired, 2 
beaten egg yolks for every quart of the soup. Oyster liquor is a 
nice addition, and 6 blanched oysters may be added to every 
quart. 

Fisli Cream Soup. — Season the water in which fresh fish has 
been boiled with pepper and salt, and keep until the next day. Heat 
1 quart of the liquor, when wanted, to boiling, mince a cupful of cold 
fish and add to this. Let simmer 5 minutes and stir in 3 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter rolled in flour, and 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. 
Add to this 1 cup of hot milk into which 1 cup of dried bread 
crumbs has been stirred. Stir well, let it boil up once, and serve 
with crackers. 

Cat-Fish Soup. — Skin, clean and cut in pieces. To ^ small cat- 
fish allow 1 slice of ham, cut in bits. Cover these with 2 quarts of 
water season with pepper and parsley (the ham supplies the salt), 
boil until the fish is tender, remove the backbones. Add to it a quart 
of boiling milk and 4 tablespoonfuls of butter cut in bits and rolled 
in flour. Stir in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, boil quickly and serve 
while hot. The ham may be omitted, and the soup seasoned with 
salt. Other small fish may be cooked in the same manner. Instead 
of stirring in the beaten eggs, the yolks may be stirred stiff with all 
the flour they will take up, and this mixture may be dropped in bits 
into the soup. 

Green Turtle Soup. — This soup should be cooked the day be- 
fore it is wanted, so that every particle of fat may be removed. Chop 
up the coarse part of the turtle meat with all the bones, and put it on to 
boil with all kinds of soup vegetables, onions, pepper and salt. Skim 
it well and allow it to boil gently for 4 hours. It is well to add to 
this stock a veal bone. When all is boiled to a pulp, strain it and let 



SOUPS. 59 

it stand over night. The next day take off the top every vestige of 
fat and put it on to boil. Cut up in small pieces the finer turtle meat 
and the green fat, pour it into the turtle stock and simmer gently for 
2 hours. It is well to boil up the green fat in some water before 
putting it in the soup, so as to boil off all impurities. The turtle 
eggs must be boiled alone for 4 hours, placed in the soup tureen, and 
the hot soup poured over them. Before serving, take a large table- 
spoonful of good butter, melt it and brown 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
in it, add it gently to the soup, as well as any sauces the larder may 
contain. There are so many different ways of flavoring green 
turtle soup ; some cooks add sweetbreads, others calves' brains ; 
some, force-meat balls ; but all agree that it requires mushroom 
catsup and Madeira wine. The wine must be poured in just before 
serving, because it loses all flavor if boiled. It is a heavy, rich 
soup, and difficult to digest, and most epicures insist upon a glass 
of cordial, or some tart wine, being served with it. If wines are 
never used, substitute lemon juice instead of Madeira wine in flavor- 
ing the soup. 

Green Turtle Soup a la Creole. — Here is the ancient Creole 
recipe for turtle soup, and it is safe to say that when once eaten after 
this delightful way no other will seem quite as savory. Cut the tur- 
tle in small pieces. Let it brown in a pot with a little lard. Cut up 
several onions, a slice of ham and a little garlic, and stir and mix 
well with the turtle. Then let the mixture brown well. Put in some 
flour and mix. Pour a quantity of soup stock into the pot. Let it 
boil and add a knee-joint of veal. Let this simmer for a full hour. 
Then put in some thyme, laurel leaf, parsley, shallots, and when 
everything is cooked add a thin slice of lemon chopped, boiled eggs 
and a little more parsley. Just before dishing add a wine glass full 
of Madeira or f that amount of lemon juice, and you will have a 
soup fit for a king's table. 

Vegetable Soups — Meatless. 

There are many times during the summer season, and also through 
Lent, when meatless soups are a desirable addition to the bill of fare. 
The following recipes will be a great help to the housekeeper in vary- 
ing the daily diet. 

Tomato Bisque. — Tomato bisque is a delicate and appetizing 



60 SOUPS. 

summer soup. Stew and strain 1 quart of tomatoes, add a small tea- 
spoonful of salt and a little pepper. Boil 1 quart of milk. Smooth 
together 1 tablespoonful of flour with 1 of butter. Add this to the 
boiling milk, but do not put in the tomatoes until the dinner hour. 
Have the tureen hot. Turn in the boiling milk, add a small pinch 
of soda to the tomatoes. Pour them in, mix and serve at once. 
If canned tomatoes are to be used, take a quart can, open it and 
pour out in a bowl an hour before using. They should be cooked in 
granite or porcelain. (Tin or iron should never be used for acid 
fruits or vegetables.) Serve with baked crackers prepared as fol- 
lows: Butter and sprinkle with cayenne pepper; bake until light 
brown- 
Tomato Soup. — One quart of fresh tomatoes, or 1 can, 1 onion, 
4 ounces of butter, tablespoon of flour, 2 spoons of salt, ^ of a spoon 
of cayenne pepper, J a pint of rich milk, 3 pints water ; boil tomatoes 
and onions | of an hour, add salt, pepper and 3 pints of hot water, 
the butter and flour rubbed smoothly with a little of the soup, to aid 
in mixing, and a little more to make it like thin cream. Boil 10 
minutes, and when ready to serve pour in the milk, which must be 
boiling, to prevent it curdling the soup. This is a substantial dinner 
for children. It may be made thinner if required. 

Tomato Rice Soup. — Fry a sliced onion brown in butter or good 
dripping in the bottom of the soup pot; pour in the chopped con- 
tents of a can of tomatoes and 2 cups of boiling water; stew till 
tender, rub through a colander, and return to the fire ; add J cup of 
boiled rice; thicken with a tablespoon of butter rubbed smooth with 
1 tablespoon of flour; boil up and serve. 

Tomato Bean Soup. — Three cups of baked beans, 6 cups of 
cold water, ^ teaspoonful of celery salt and 3 slices of onions ; sim- 
mer together 30 minutes ; strain and add H cups or more of stewed 
tomato strained ; salt and pepper to taste ; rub together tablespoon 
each of flour and butter; cook from 3 to 5 minutes; with this thick- 
ening. Serve with croutons, or squares of toasted bread. 

Liiebig Tomato Soup. — For 5 dishes, take 1 pint of cooked toma- 
toes, add 1 quart of water, boil and strain. Season with h teaspoon- 
ful Liebig's extract beef dissolved in hot water, a heaping teaspoon- 
ful butter, salt, sugar if liked, and 2 heaping teaspoonfuls corn-starch 
mixed smoothly with milk. Boil a few moments. 




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SOUPS. 61 

Tomato Meat Soup. — Three pounds of beef, 1 quart of canned 
tomatoes, 1 gallon water. Let the meat and water boil for 2 hours, 
or until the liquid is reduced to a little more than 2 quarts. Then 
stir in the tomatoes, and stew all slowly for three-quarters of an hour 
longer. Season to taste, strain and serve. 

Asparag-us Soup — Boil 1 quart of asparagus cut in inch lengths 
in 1 quart of water until tender, heat 1 pint of milk and pour into 
the asparagus ; season with butter and salt, pour into a tureen boiling 
hot and serve at once in large saucers ; to be eaten with butter toast 
for supper when you want something good. 

Asparagus Soup — II. Take 2 bunches (usual size) of good aspa- 
ragus and cut off the tips. Cook the stalks in boiling salted water until 
they are perfectly tender, then drain and rub through a colander. Then 
take the water that the asparagus stalks have been boiled in and add 
to it 1 quart of fresh milk and set over the fire. When it has come 
to the boiling point, have a teaspoonful of butter and 2 teaspoonfuls 
of sifted flour well rubbed together, and stir them into the milk until 
quite smooth. Then add the asparagus pulp and boil about 15 min- 
utes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, boil the tips separately in boil- 
ing salted water until they are tender, drain them, put them in the 
soup tureen, and after adding salt and pepper to your liking to the 
milk soup, pour it over the tips and serve. 

Asparag-us Cousoninie. — Add to 1 quart of soup stock the juice 
from a can of white asparagus ; season with salt and pepper, strain 
through a cloth and serve hot. The asparagus from the can may be 
used for a salad served on individual plates with wafers and olives. 
Toast wafers in hot oven. 

Puree of Celery. — Wash and scrape a head of celery and cut it 
into half-inch pieces. Put it into a pint of water and cook till very 
soft. Mash in the water in which it is boiled. Chop fine a table- 
spoonful of onion and cook it in a pint of milk for 10 minutes; then 
add the milk to the celery. Pass all through a fine strainer and 
return to the fire. Cook together a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of 
flour until smooth, but not brown. Stir it into the boiling soup, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, strain into the tureen and serve. 

Rice Celery Soup.— Boil a scant cup of rice in 3 pints of milk 
until it will pass through a sieve. Grate the white part of 2 or 3 
he^ds of celery, add this to the rice milk after it has been strained j 



62 SOUPS. 

to this may be added a quart of strong white stock if one wishes, or 
a pint of water may be used, and after the celery is tender a pint of 
cream added. Season to taste. 

Economical Celery Soup. — There is an economical way of treat- 
ing the large bunch of best celery which makes it cheap. Use the 
finer portions of the crisp stalks as a relish. All the tough portions 
and the root carefully cleaned are to be cut fine, covered with cold 
water and cooked slowly till nearly the whole can be rubbed 
through a strainer. Half an hour before dinner heat this liquid 
celery with an equal quantity of any kind of meat-broth you happen 
to have in the house, and then add 1 pint of hot milk thickened 
like a white sauce with 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour 
cooked together. Season with salt. If you have no broth, after 
the soup is in the tureen stir into it slowly and smoothly the well- 
beaten yolk of an egg, and you will not miss at all the richness of 
the meat. 

Potag-e a la Crecy. — This is a very nice puree soup. Take 4 
large red carrots, 2 potatoes, 2 onions, and 2 stalks of celery ; cut 
them all up and fry brown in butter or beef drippings. Then put all 
into 1 quart of hot water and boil until the vegetables are soft, after 
which press them through a sieve, or colander. Return to the fire, add 
2 cloves, a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, a tablespoon- 
ful of butter and a few parsley leaves. Heat 1 pint of milk, thicken 
it with 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch or flour, add to the soup, and serve 
croutons, or squares of toast. (Potage is the French term for soup.) 

(Bean Soup, meatless, will be found among the other Bean Soups.) 

Cabbage Soup (Meatless). — Take a good-sized cabbage (a savoy 
is the best), 3 onions, 2 good-sized carrots, 3 turnips, a small bunch 
of parsley and 2 leeks ; clean and wash them well ; when washed, 
pour boiling water over them and let them remain for 10 minutes, 
then strain and cut the vegetables small ; have ready a saucepan, put 
in it 2 tablespoonfuls of beef dripping and put it on the fire to melt. 
When the fat is melted put in the vegetables, stir them well until they 
begin to frizzle ; then add a quart of boiling water, a breakfast cupful 
of rice or barley, salt and pepper. Let the soup simmer slowly until 
the vegetables are quite soft, then add a pint of boiling water and let 
it simmer for three-quarters of an hour; 4 potatoes can be added to 
the other vegetables if liked. This soup will be found excellent and 



SOUPS. 63 

inexpensive, almost a dinner in itself. Without the rice, using butter 
instead of dripping, and adding a few potatoes, it will make another 
delicious soup. 

Cream Vegetable Soup. — Use only small and tender vegetables 
— 4 carrots, 2 parsnips, 2 green onions, a pint of green peas, a handful 
of green beans, 2 potatoes and 1 head of cauliflower. Shell the peas, 
cut the rest in strips, boil in a little water till soft. Heat 3 pints of 
milk, put in the vegetables with their water, salt, thicken with flour. 
When ready to serve put in a tablespoonful of butter. 

Vegetable Chowder. — Fry 4 large slices of salt pork cut in dice. 
When the fat is extracted, (ry in it 4 small onions till of a golden- 
brown. Mix this in layers with 2 quarts of potatoes peeled and sliced, 
sprinkling each layer with some pepper and salt, using one-half cup- 
ful of flour, 1 teaspoonful pepper and the same of salt. Cover with 
water and simmer slowly till potatoes are done, or about 30 minutes 
usually. Split 6 common crackers, and soak them in cold water 3 
minutes. Lay in the chowder. Pour in 1 pint of milk. Cover and 
boil up once. Arrange the crackers around the edge of a large 
platter, and dish the chowder in the centre. 

Onion, or Mock Oyster Soup. — Boil one-half dozen onions in 
water enough to cover them. If strong boil a turnip with them — the 
turnip will absorb the strong taste. When they are boiled enough 
mash them through a colander. Then boil them again in a quart of 
sweet milk. Mix 1 teaspoonful of flour with 1 tablespoonful of butter 
and stir in the soup. Let it boil once thoroughly, and season with 
pepper, salt and mace. Serve at once. 

Cream of Onion Soup. — Peel and cut into thin slices a dozen 
small white onions, and fry them to a light brown in a tablespoonful 
of butter. Add to the onions a pint of sweet milk, a quart of boiling 
water, a saltspoonful of salt, the same quantity of white pepper, ^ 
teaspoonful of sugar, and a pinch of mace. Cook ^ hour very 
slowly and strain through a fine sieve. Add the yolks of 3 eggs, 
well beaten, and a cupful of cream. Serve immediately. 

Potato Onion Soup. — Slice 2 or 3 good-sized onions and fry 
them in a little butter until they are soft, then add 3 tablespoonfuls 
of flour and stir until it is a little cooked, but not brown. To this 
gradually add a pint of boiling water, or stock if you have it, stirring 
all the time so it shall be smooth. Boil and mash 3 good-sized pota- 



64 SOUPS. 

toes and stir in them 1 quart of boiling milk. Stir the two mixtures 
together and season well. When very hot pour through a colander 
into a tureen. Sprinkle over the top a tablespoonful of parsley, 
chopped fine, and a little fried bread. 

Potato Cream Soup. — One quart of water, 1 pint of raw sliced 
potatoes, butter size of an egg, salt and pepper to taste ; cover and 
cook until the potatoes are soft ; add a well-beaten egg and }4 pint 
of creamy milk, let it boil again and stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
mixed smoothly with a little creamy milk. Serve hot with crackers. 

Potato Soup. — Mash potatoes and season as for table, beating 
with a large fork until " creamy." Use rich milk, to which add 
cream or a little butter, and heat two quarts. Stir the mashed pota- 
toes in slowly, and when again cooked up, serve in hot dishes with 
celery and hot buttered toast. As a substitute for oyster stew, when 
oysters are out of season (or out of " reach "), I know of nothing 
equal to this nourishing, yet delicate dish — some people preferring it 
to its more expensive prototype. 

Greeu Pea Soup. — Green peas make a delicious soup. Boil 1 
quart of peas in a quart of water for 20 minutes, mash, add a quart of 
milk, a tablespoonful of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour cooked in 
the butter and stirred in the boiling soup, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Let it just come to the boiling point and serve immediately. 
Any sweet herbs may be used in place of the pepper. 

Cream of Pea Soup. — Cook one-quarter peck of peas about 2 
hours, reserve one-half cupful and press the remainder through a sieve 
into the water in which they were boiled, and season. Mix table- 
spoonful of butter and the same of flour, smooth it with a cup of hot 
milk and add it to the soup ; also add the half cup of peas and serve. 
Use more milk if preferred. 

Cream of Corn Soup. — Remove the corn from 1 can, cover with 
3 cups of water and simmer for 1 hour. Strain, press through a sieve. 
Scald 3 cups of milk, add the corn and 1 tablespoonful of butter 
rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Mix until smooth ; 
season with salt, pepper and a few drops of celery extract. Add | 
cup of cream and stir until heated. Take from the fire, add the 
beaten yolk of an egg and serve at once. The egg or cream may be 
omitted, but the soup is far more delicious with the addition of both, 
The corn from ] 2 ears equals 1 can. 



SOUPS. 65 

Canned Corn Soup. — Cook 1 pint of sliced potatoes until soft, 
and rub them through a colander. Stew 1 pint of canned green corn 
in milk, rub through a colander and mix with the potatoes ; then add 
boiling milk to make the required consistency ; season with salt and 
white pepper and serve. 

Cream of Turnip Soup. — Take 6 new turnips cut in blocks ; 
stew gently for half an hour in water enough to cover. Remove the 
turnips and press through a colander; return to the soup, which 
should be about 1 quart in quantity. Rub together 1 tablespoonful 
of butter and 2 of flour ; stir into the soup. When it is boiling, add 
1 cupful of hot milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat 
up an egg in the tureen and 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 
Pour it over the egg, stirring as it is poured, and serve. 

Okra Soup. — Cut the okra in very thin slices, and throw into IJ 
quarts of boiling salted water ; when tender add 1 quart of milk, a 
large tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and white 
pepper to taste. This soup must be made in a porcelain kettle. 

Rice Soup a la Creme. — Boil a sliced onion and a bunch of 
celery tops in 2 quarts of water for 1 hour. Strain and add | cup of 
rice that has been carefully washed and looked over. Cook for three- 
quarters of an hour, stirring often, or until the rice is well swollen 
and tender. Just before serving, beat up in the tureen itself 1 egg 
with ^ tumblerful of rich milk — cream is better — and a pinch of nut- 
meg, if liked. Pour the boiling soup over this mixture from a 
height, beating it still with a whisk to mix all thoroughly, and serve 
with toast squares. 

Liiebig's Kice Soup. — Cook 2 tablespoonfuls of the rice in 1 
quart of water, with a small onion peeled and chopped and 1 bay 
leaf Cook slowly 30 minutes. Take out the bay leaf, and add 2 
teaspoonfuls of beef extract. Season to taste with salt and white 
pepper. 

Almond Soup witli Kice. — 1 cup of rice, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 
5 pints of milk, ^ teaspoonful of salt, | pound almonds. Wash the 
rice, put in a farina boiler with 1 quart of milk. Cook slowly till 
every grain is tender. While the rice is cooking shell and blanch 
the almonds, chop very fine and then pound them in a mortar, adding, 
a few drops at a time, ^ cup of milk, forming a smooth paste. Place 
the paste with the sugar and remaining quantity of milk in a double 
5 



66 SOUPS. 

boiler and simmer for 30 minutes. When the rice is done, turn it 
carefully into the soup tureen, pour over it the almonds and milk, 
season with teaspoonful of salt and serve. 

Cauliflower Soup. — Cut a medium-sized cauliflower into small 
clusters, chop all except 2 bunches, and put all on the fire in 4 cups 
of boiling water, with a minced onion and a couple of sprigs of pars- 
ley ; cook till tender. Remove the unchopped bunches and lay them 
aside while you rub the chopped and boiled portion through a colan- 
der; return what comes through the sieve to the stove. Have ready 
in a double boiler 1 pint of scalding milk ; thicken this with a table- 
spoon of butter rubbed smooth with an equal quantity of flour, and 
mix with the strained cauliflower. Season to taste, drop in the 
reserved clusters cut in small pieces, and serve the soup immediately. 

Cliestuiit Soup — In a list of winter soups, that made from chest- 
nuts stands as a novelty. Peel about 60 chestnuts and blanch until 
the inner skin can be removed, then cook them gently in well-flavored 
stock until tender enough to rub through a sieve. Dilute with the 
liquor in which they were cooked and serve very hot, with croutons, 
or squares of toast. 

Palestine Soup. — The Palestine Soup is made of Jerusalem arti- 
chokes. Scrape a pound of the artichokes clean, and cut into slices. 
Fry 2 onions in a large tablespoonful of butter ; when brown add a 
dessert-spoonful of flour and a quart of water. Add the artichokes, a 
sprig of parsley and a little celery. Boil until the vegetables are soft, 
and strain through a sieve. Return to the fire, add salt and white 
pepper to taste, and a pint of boiling cream or milk. Beat the yolks 
of 2 eggs thoroughly and add just before serving. It is best to place 
the beaten yolks in the soup tureen and pour the boiling soup on 
them. Serve with fried croutons of bread. This will be found deli- 
cious. Carrots may be substituted for the artichokes. 

Cream of Spiuacli Soup. — Pick over and wash 1 pound of spinach, 
put into a saucepan with a little water and cook until thoroughly 
done. When tender press through a fine sieve. Mix 1 ounce of 
butter and 1 ounce of flour in a saucepan, add the spinach cream, 
salt and pepper to taste; add one quart of well-flavored soup stock. 
Let the soup come nearly to a boil, then remove from the fire and stir 
in the yolks of 2 eggs well beaten up with a little lemon juke • sea- 
son with salt and pepper, Serve with, croutons, 



SOUPS. 67 

Cream of Barley Soup. — Boil half a cup of barley in plenty of 
salted water; mix 2 tablespoonfuls of flour with a little cold water, stir 
in 2 quarts of boiling milk. Skim the barley into this ; add butter 
and salt. 

Cheese Soup. — Take bread cut into disc shape ; fry nicely brown 
in butter ; put into soup tureen. Now take a little more butter, a 
tablespoon of flour and fry brown, then thin it with water or soup 
broth ; take one-fourth pound Sweitzer or Goshen cheese, cut into 
very thin shreds, mix into soup ; let boil until cheese is tender ; salt 
to taste. Beat an egg and stir it in soup. When serving, pour 
over fried bread. 

Pistachio Soup. — The pistachio soup is a cream soup flavored 
with pistachio nuts and colored with spinach. To make the soup, 
first put one pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler, and add to 
it one ounce of chopped pistachio nuts made almost as fine as a 
powder and one-half teaspoonful of almond paste. Mix well and 
boil twenty minutes. Pick over one pint of spinach that is as fresh 
and green as you can get it. Pick out the stems and ribs of the 
leaves, and boil that which is left in enough boiling salted water to 
cover it. When tender drain and chop very fine ; then press to a 
pulp with a potato masher. Add the spinach to the soup, mix thor- 
oughly, then add one tablespoonful of butter. Moisten a tablespoon- 
ful of arrow root with a little cold water, add a little of the hot liquid 
to it, and then stir into the soup and cook it until it is as thick as a 
thin cream. Just before serving add one-half teaspoonful of pepper, 
salt, and a dash of white pepper. Very nice to serve at a green 
luncheon. 

Bouille. — The French make a most acceptable soup for summer 
weather of thickened milk, which they call bouille. Put two table- 
spoonfuls of the finest wheat flour, a dessertspoonful of sugar and a 
teaspoonful of salt in a saucepan, and mix it to a smooth paste with 
a little milk. When this is thoroughly smooth enough extra milk is 
added to make in all a quart. A New England housekeeper would 
cook this soup in a double boiler, but the French housekeeper simply 
boils it over the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time. 
Nothing could be simpler than this served with little sippets of well- 
browned toast and a dash of pepper. The hot milk is stimulating 
and yet delicate, and gives just the soup one requires for a warm day, 




Oysters are not good unless 
they close firmly on the knife when 
being opened. If they can be opened 
^iL._:^_; " easily or hold themselves open in the least, they are 

^^ not fit to use. Oysters should be carefully chosen; 

'W large, extra and firm-fleshed bivalves are as necessary 

for stews as for fries or roasts. They should never be plunged in hot 
water to increase their size, as this can only be done at a great loss 
in flavor. 

Oysters in the shell may be kept a fortnight at the very least by 
spreading them upon the cellar floor with the rounding part of the 
shell down, and sprinkling them well with salt and Indian meal. 
Cover them with two or three folds of a blanket or old carpeting, and 
keep this well saturated with cold water. Repeat the sprinkling with 
meal and salt every day, and see that the covering is thoroughly wet. 
Oysters kept in this manner will be found in a most satisfactory con- 
dition. 

In cases wlicre butter is given to be used with oysters, many pre- 
fer olive oil. Use but half the quantity that you would of butter. 
Use the very largest oysters for frying and broiling, the medium for 
raw and soup, and the smallest for scallops, croquettes, and pies. 
Every oyster should be looked at that no bits of shell remain attached 
to it. This is a very important matter, and should not be neglected. 

All fried articles may be reheated on paper in a very hot oven, and 
they will taste as though just fried. Soft bread crumbs are made 
from bread which is several days old, but has not been dried in the 
oven. 

Oysters. 

Raw Oysters. — A nice way to serve raw oysters is to take a block 
of clear ice, 20 to 25 pounds, melt a hollow in the top by heating a 
brick or a flat-iron and placing on the ice, melting a hollow deep 
enough to hold the oysters. Place the ice on a platter covered with 
a napkin to prevent slipping and to absorb the water. Arrange smilax 



SHELL FISH. 69 

or ferns or parsley around the edge of the platter. To make it more 
attractive, make some holes in the sides, in irregular spots with a hot 
poker, and put in ferns, etc. Drain the oysters after carefully picking 
them over, season with salt and white pepper, A garnish of slices of 
lemon is an addition and should be served with them, as some prefer 
lemon to vinegar. This is especially nice for a center piece at an en- 
tertainment. In large cities ice moulds of different varieties are frozen 
to order and furnished by caterers. 

Raw Oysters. — II. If to be served at a table they should be 
brought on in a deep dish, accompanied by a dish of lemons, cut in 
quarters. Serve in small plates, half a dozen oysters to each person, 
with a piece of lemon in the center. Salt, pepper and vinegar should 
be provided. Lemon juice is sometimes served in place of vinegar. 

Oysters on the Half Sliell — The oysters must be small and as 
fresh as can be procured. Fill a soup plate full of fine cracked ice ; 
lay over this a small fringed doily. Clean the shells of the oysters, 
open them carefully, taking pains not to lose their juice, set the half 
shell firmly into the doily-covered ice, cut a lemon in four, lay one- 
quarter in the middle of the circle of oysters. In this way the oysters 
are chilled, the under folded part of the napkin will absorb the Avater, 
thus preventing the danger of soiling the table linen. 

Oysters on the Half Shell. — II. Allows six oysters to each per- 
son. Wash the shells well ; open them carefully ; take off the upper 
shell, detach the oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put 
six on an oyster, or round plate, and serve with a piece of lemon in 
the centre of the dish. With the oysters serve horse-radish, black 
and red pepper and thin slices of buttered graham .bread. 

Sauce for Raw Oysters. — Take 1 heaping tablespoonful of finely 
chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of chives, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 of 
white pepper, crushed, 5 tablespoonfuls of best tarragon vinegar, 1 
teaspoonful of lime juice ; mix thoroughly and let stand for 1 hour be- 
fore serving. This sauce was the invention of a New York epicure, to 
add a fliavor to the somewhat insipid taste of raw oysters. The amount 
given above is sufficient for eight persons, and is to spread over them 
as soon as served. 

Oyster Stew. — Drain the liquor from a quart of oysters and put 
it in a saucepan over the fire, and when at boiling point skim carefully. 
Place a quart of milk in a double boiler, and when it begins to boil 



70 SHELL FISH. 

add the oyster liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of 
rolled crackers, and the oysters. Salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
Let them boil up once and they are ready to serve. 

Plain Oyster Stew. — Same as milk or cream stew, using only 
oyster liquor instead of milk or cream, adding more butter after tak- 
ing up. 

Dry Oyster Stew. — Take 6 to 12 large oysters and cook them 
in 1 half pint of their own liquor for 5 minutes, seasoning with butter 
and white pepper and stirring constantly. Serve in hot oyster scallops 
or bowls. 

Oysters Stewed witli Celery. — Put 1 pint of strong clear beef 
soup-stock in a large stew-pan. Instead of milk use sweet cream. 
Of this cream add 1 pint to the broth in the stew-pan, also 4 table- 
spoonfuls of the best table butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, one of white 
pepper, 1 of ground mace, and 1 of celery extract. If celery can be 
had in the stalk, chop up fine and use instead. No more delicate or 
healthful flavor can be added to any soup, stew or broth than this. 
While this is cooking dredge in finely powdered cracker dust and a 
little of the best corn-starch flour, until thickened to your taste. Have 
ready in a hot tureen 50 of the best oysters, parboiled in their own 
juice. Pour over these the sauce compounded as above and serve 
immediately. 

Oyster Egg Stew. — Put a pint of oysters over the fire, with a 
little of their own liquor, a pinch of salt, same of pepper and a tea- 
spoonful of butter; as soon as the beards begin to open and the juice 
boils, take them out, add half a pint of sauce, made with a spoonful 
each of flour and a cup of milk, veal stock or half milk and half oys- 
ter liquor, a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits ; stir all for 2 minutes, 
but do not allow it to boil. Then add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. 
Many prefer oysters well done, in which case cook 5 minutes. 

Creamed. Oysters. — To one-half tablespoonful of butter, melted 
in a saucepan, add one heaping tablespoonful of flour. Cook a few 
moments, and stir in gradually one cup of hot milk. Season with 
salt, pepper and 1 teaspoonful of celery salt. Wash and pick over 
carefully 1 pint of fine oysters, boil them in their own liquor until 
plump, drain, and pour over them the sauce. 

Oyster Bisque. — Oyster bisque is delicious. One pint of chicken 
or veal stock (the liquor in which chickens have been boiled is excel- 



SHELL FISH. 71 

lent for this purpose), ] pint of oysters, 1 cup of milk, 2 eggs, salt, 
pepper, chopped parsley, 1 heaping cup of bread crumbs and 1 great 
spoonful of butter rubbed in 1 of flour. Strain the stock and set over 
the fire with the crumbs in a farina kettle. In another vessel heat the 
oyster liquor, and when it simmers add the oysters chopped fine ; 
cook all 20 minutes. In a third vessel scald the milk, stir into this 
the floured butter, boil up sharply and pour upon the beaten eggs. 
Set in hot water while you turn the oysters and liquor into the kettle 
containing the stock and crumbs, and cook together before putting in 
the parsley and other seasoning. Finally pour in milk and eggs, after 
which the soup must not boil, but stand in hot water 3 minutes. 
Serve promptly in a hot tureen, with a pinch of cayenne. 

Oyster Cliowder. — For those who like onions : Peel and cut in 
small pieces 2 medium-sized onions ; fry in plenty of butter to a light 
brown; pare and slice about 4 potatoes and boil in just enough water 
to cover till almost done, then add the onions and about a pint of 
milk ; let come to a boil ; thicken with a little flour, pepper and salt 
and butter to taste, then add a pint of oysters and boil up once more. 

Oyster Cliowder. — II. Three slices of pickled pork, 2 onions, 3 
potatoes, 2 dozen crackers, 5 dozen oysters, 1 quart of milk and sea- 
soning. Boil the pork, onions and potatoes together until nearly 
done. Put into the pot the oysters, milk, crackers and seasoning. 
Boil a few minutes. 

Scalloped Oysters. — To scallop oysters 1 quart of solid oysters 
is required for a dish that will hold two quarts. Butter the dish and 
put on the bottom a layer of oysters. Cover them with a layer of 
rolled crackers or bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper and 
pieces of butter, and alternate until the dish is filled, using the crumbs 
for the last layer, moisten well with the oyster liquor. Pour over all 
the liquor, and if there is not enough to moisten well, add a cupful 
of cream. Bake one-half hour and serve hot. Be sure the top is a 
nice brown. It is better to cover the dish a while at first to keep it 
from browning too quickly. If the oyster liquor is not liked, use 
milk alone for moistening. 

Scalloped Oysters. — II. Crush and roll several handfuls of crack- 
ers. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish. Wet 
this with a mixture of the oyster liquor and milk. Next, have a layer 
of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay small bits of but- 



72 SHELL FISH. 

ter upon them. Then another layer of moistened crumbs, and so on 
until the dish is full. Let the top layer be of crumbs, thicker than 
ihc rest, and beat an egg into the milk you pour over them. Stick 
bits of butter thickly over it, cover the dish, set it in the oven, bake 
half an hour; if the dish be large, remove the cover, and brown by 
setting it upon the upper grating of oven. 

Scalloped Oysters witli Hard-Boiled Eggs. — Chop 6 hard-boiled 
eggs fine. Add these to 1 pint of bread crumbs. Season with one- 
half teaspoonful of salt and one-quarter teaspoonful of white pepper. 
Put a layer of this mixture in the bottom of a well-buttered pudding 
dish, then a layer of oysters, alternating until the dish is full, and 
having the crumbs for the last layer. Take 2 tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, cut in bits and dot over the top. Pour in the oyster liquor and 
bake in a quick oven for 30 minutes. Serve hot. Milk can be used 
instead of the oyster liquor, if liked. 

Fried Oysters. — Only the large selects are fit for frying. Dry 
them on a folded towel, laying in rows upon one end and pressing 
the other end upon them to absorb the moisture. Beat 2 eggs light 
about ten minutes; add a pinch of salt; have ready a bowl of cracker 
crumbs (use thin soda crackers), about one-half pound, and roll upon 
the molding board until fine; put one-half of the cracker dust one 
side, and use the other half for the first laying in of the oysters ; take 
each oyster and roll it in the cracker dust and arrange upon a plate ; 
after all the oysters are thus rolled take each one and dip with a fork 
carefully into the egQ, and from there lay into the second half of rolled 
cracker, putting them each one upon a plate. Have the lard, or but- 
ter and lard mixed, smoking hot, and drop in the oysters, one by one, 
with a fork. As fast as one side of an oyster is done turn over. Take 
out with a fork. A quicker way is to put several in a wire frying 
basket and immerse it in the hot fat. Serve very hot and garnish 
with sliced lemon and parsley. Drain for a moment upon coarse 
brown paper before serving. Epicures prefer to fry oysters in salad 
oil rather than butter ; if you have a large quantity to fry, they may 
be dipped an hour or two before serving time, and spread on a clean 
cloth in a cool place. They may also be drained, dipped in seasoned 
corn meal and fried in lard. The oyster liquor may be utilized by 
stirring into a batter, with some of the seasoned corn meal, and dropped 
by spoonfuls into the hot lard to fry as mock oysters. 



SHELL FISH. 73 

Oysters Fried in Batter. — Drain the oysters and then dip into a 
batter made of two eggs beaten Hght, one cup of milk, and flour 
enough to form a soft batter, and season with pepper and salt. Put 
equal quantities of butter and lard into a spider, and let the mixture 
be smoking hot before you put in the oysters. Do not crowd them. 
Turn them so as to cook both sides a delicate brown. Serve very hot 
and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. What is left of the batter 
can be dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat and fried like croquettes 
and served with the oysters. 

Restaurant Fried Oysters. — In the first place, avoid cracker 
crumbs. They are pasty. Instead, put some stale bread in the oven 
to dry, and after it is thoroughly hard and dry grate it finely and keep 
the crumbs in a glass jar, so that if any are left they can be kept for 
future use. Then beat together an egg and a cup of sweet milk, sea- 
soning with salt, pepper, and, if liked, a little Worcester sauce. Be 
sure not to beat the egg separately. Dip the oysters first in their 
own liquid, then in the crumbs, then in the egg and milk and lastly 
in the crumbs again. Then comes the actual frying, which is the 
crucial point. The secret of success is to have plenty of fat and have 
it boiling hot. Let them brown quickly and delicately on both sides. 
Drain on brown paper and serve. Large oysters are not especially 
desirable, except for looks. The small ones taste quite as good. 
Cooks in restaurants have a trick of putting two small ones together 
in " dipping " before frying. 

Quiclt Fried Oysters. — Break an egg in a bowl and beat well ; 
then turn in one-half pint of oysters, liquid and all. Be careful to 
remove any bits of shell ; stir into this enough finely rolled cracker 
crumbs to thicken. Heat butter and lard, half and half, in a frying 
pan. Mix the oysters and crackers thoroughly, turn all into the fry- 
ing pan and level it like a large thick griddle-cake. Fry brown on 
one side and then turn and brown the other side. Be careful not to 
burn. Have it rather moist, but if you chance to get in too many 
cracker crumbs add a spoonful of milk. 

Fried Oysters with 3Iiishrooms. — Fry the oysters after any pre- 
ferred recipe. Take mushrooms and cut them down to the stem. 
Place them in a baking pan with a small piece of butter and put them 
in the oven for about five minutes. Put them on a flat dish and put 
the oysters on top, garnish with parsley and serve. 



74 SHELL FISH. 

Panned Oysters. — For panning oysters in the following way, use 
patty pans, scallop plates or small deep china saucers. Cut pieces of 
thin toast to fill the bottom, butter them well, pour a tablespoonful of 
well-seasoned oyster juice upon each piece, dip the oysters in their 
liquor and put a double layer of them upon each piece of toast. Place 
a morsel of butter upon the top, put all into a baking pan, cover and 
set in a quick oven to bake 8 or 10 minutes. Serve with small bits 
of lemon to each pan. Send hot to the table in the pans. 

Panned Oysters. — II. Put a sufficient quantity of very fine oys- 
ters in a pan together with their own juice. Add 1 tablespoonful of 
the best butter, a little black pepper and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle a 
quantity of fine cracker crumbs over the top. Place over a quick 
fire. When the oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve instantly. 
The crumbs can be omitted. 

Pan Roast. — A pan roast is very nearly as delicious as oysters 
roasted in the shell. Drain the oysters. Put an iron frying pan over 
a quick fire to heat; as soon as it is hissing hot throw in the oysters 
and shake and stir until they boil ; then add salt, pepper and a piece 
of butter the size of a walnut for 25 oysters. Serve in a hot dish im- 
mediately. These are very nice, retaining all the natural oyster flavor. 

Baked Oysters. — Take nice large oysters in the shell. Wash and 
scrub the shells until free from sand. Now place them in a baking 
pan, put in a very quick oven (400 degrees Fahrenheit), and bake until 
they open their shells. Now remove the upper shells, put a small bit 
of butter on each oyster, sprinkle lightly with salt and cayenne and 
serve in the under shells. 

Baked Oysters. — II. Open the shells, keeping the deepest one for 
use. Melt some butter and season with finely chopped parsley and 
pepper. When slightly cool roll each oyster in it, using care that it 
drips as little as possible. Lay the oysters in the shells, and add to 
each a little lemon juice. Cover with bread crumbs, and place the 
shells in a dripping pan and bake in a quick oven. Serve in the shells. 

Steamed Oysters. — Buy the oysters unopened, wash thoroughly, 
using a brush or coarse cloth; place them separately in the steamer, 
or in a large sieve put on top of a large pot of boiling water. The 
deep shell must be undermost in order that no juice may be wasted. 
As soon as the oysters open they are done and should be served at 
once with pepper, salt, butter, etc., to taste. 



SHELL FISH. 75 

Steamed Oysters. — H. Drain the oysters and put them in a dish 
in a steamer over boihng water. Cover closely and steam until they 
are plump and the edges muffled. Season with salt and pepper; let 
them stand a moment longer, then serve on rounds of buttered toast. 

Fricassee of Oysters. — Twenty-five oysters, 1 large tablespoon- 
ful of butter, 1 large tablespoonful of flour, one-half pint of milk, 1 
beaten egg, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and cayenne to 
taste. Boil the oysters in their own liquor; drain. Put the butter in 
a frying pan, and when melted add the flour ; mix until smooth. Now 
add the milk, stir until it boils ; add the oysters and a half cup of the 
liquor, salt and cayenne, and stir again until it boils. Take from the 
fire, add the yolks of the eggs lightly beaten and the parsley ; serve 
at once. 

Broiled Oysters. — For broiling choose large, fat oysters, and wipe 
each one with a soft cloth. Sprinkle salt and cayenne pepper upon 
them, and dip in melted butter. Roll each one in cracker dust. But- 
ter well a fine wire double broiler, and lay on it the oysters. Let the 
fire be hot and clear. Serve very hot on round pieces of toast, but- 
tered. Keep the broiler expressly for oysters. If meat is broiled on 
it, it will impart an unpleasant taste. Some cooks omit the crumbs, 
dipping simply in melted butter. The oysters can be served with a 
sauce, as follows : — Sauce : Simmer together the liquor, a bit of but- 
ter, and enough flour to thicken to the consistency of the cream. 
Maitre de Hotel sauce can be served if liked. 

Macaroni and Oysters. — Break into 2-inch lengths 4 ounces of 
macaroni ; put it in boiling water ; boil rapidly for 20 minutes ; drain. 
Drain 25 oysters, put a layer of macaroni in bottom of baking dish, 
then a layer of oysters, a dust of salt and pepper, and so continue 
until the materials are used ; cover the top with bread crumbs, put a 
few bits of butter over the top, and brown in the oven 20 minutes. 
Add the strained oyster liquor to moisten, and a cupful of milk. 

Spaghetti and Oysters. — One quart of oysters and 1 cupful of 
spaghetti, broken in half-inch pieces. Boil the spaghetti in boiling 
salted water for 30 minutes. Drain and stir in a piece of butter the 
size of a walnut, and a suspicion of cayenne. Grease a baking dish 
and put a layer of this in the bottom, then a layer of oysters ; sprinkle 
lightly with salt and pepper, to taste, and add a few small pieces of 
butter, then another layer of spaghetti and oysters, having the top 



76 SHELL FISH. 

layer spaghetti, with a sprinkhng of grated cheese. Bake in a mod- 
erate oven 20 minutes and serve. 

Oysters and Rice. — Wash 1 pint of rice, put it into a double 
boiler, and salt to taste; add the strained liquor from one quart of 
oysters, stir occasionally while cooking; when done and while hot 
add one-quarter pound of butter, beat 2 eggs separately, and when 
cool stir them in; butter a pudding dish and put the rice into it; it 
should be 1}^ inches deep; spread the oysters over the rice; salt and 
pepper and cover with bits of butter, sprinkle over the oysters 1 large 
cup of fine cracker dust and more butter in bits; brown quickly in a 
hot oven and serve at once. 

Curried Oysters. — Drain the juice from 1 pint of oysters, put in 
a saucepan on the fire, let it come to a boil and skim ; put into another 
saucepan two ounces of butter, one small onion, cut into thin strips. 
As soon as the onion is a golden brown add to it 1 teaspoonful of 
flour. Stir until it is a smooth paste, turn in one-half pint of the oys- 
ters that have been boiled, 1 teaspoonful of curry powder. Allow it 
to first boil. Strain into a double boiler and put it where it will keep 
warm. Wipe off 1 pint of oysters, brush with butter a hot griddle, 
place the oysters on it, and as soon as they begin to curl turn them 
over. When done add them to the sauce and serve immediately. 

Oyster Vol au Vent. — This is delicious, and when carefully pre- 
pared makes an excellent entree. Blanch and drain 50 oysters, soak 
a pair of sweetbreads in cold water for an hour, remove the skin, fat 
and other impurities, and put over the fire with a pint of boiling water 
salted and spiced to taste ; boil 1 minute, take them off and drop in 
cold water. Quarter them and put into a stew-pan, with the oyster 
liquor, a gill of cream and two saltspoonfuls of salt. Stew until the 
sweetbreads are cooked, and add 4 ounces of butter, rubbed into 2 of 
flour ; add oysters, give one boil, fill either the individual pastry shells 
with the mixture, with a ladleful of sauce over each, or put all in a 
large vol au vent case, which can be ordered from the baker, or simply 
serve in a heated china dish. 

Oysters on Toast. — Select 12 fresh, plump oysters. Have ready 
delicately browned toast, moistened in hot milk, and well buttered. 
Put the oysters with their own liquor in a stew-pan ; season with a 
little black pepper, one-half blade of mace, and one-half teacup of rich 
cream. Let this boil until the oysters swell. Remove and place upon 



SHELL FISH. 77 

the hot toast, enriching with bits of fresh butter. Rub 1 teaspoonful 
of butter and 1 teaspoonful of flour together, stir this into the boiHng 
oyster hquor. Then pour it over the toast and oysters, which must 
be kept very hot. For a larger quantity, 1 quart of oysters and their 
liquor to one pint of cream or rich milk. 

Oysters ou Toast. — H. {Without Milk). — Strain the oyster liquor, 
rinse the bits of shell from the oysters, turn the liquor back upon 
them, and put in a stew-pan, set them where they will boil up. Salt, 
pepper and butter to your taste. Have ready nicely-browned toast, 
previously moistened in boiling water and well buttered. Arrange 
this in a dish and pour over it the boiling oysters, and serve at once. 
If this gravy is too rich, add a little water to the oyster liquor. Serve 
walnut catsup or vinegar with them. 

Oysters on Crackers. — Split common crackers, butter and brown 
crisply ; then on each half cracker put as many oysters as will cover 
the surface, well sprinkled with salt and pepper ; set in the oven until 
the oysters grow plump. 

Gricldled Oystei's. — Have the griddle heated the same as for 
griddle cakes. Wipe the oysters dry. Now spread them on a clean 
towel and place on a large plate. Have on a dish as many slices of 
buttered toast as there are persons to serve. Take 1 tablespoonful 
of butter for every dozen oysters. Drop a piece of butter about the 
size of a large pea on the hot griddle and immediately drop an oyster 
on this butter. Continue this work rapidly until the oysters are on 
the griddle. Now come back to the first one. Drop a bit of butter 
near it, then slip a knife under the oyster and lift it from the griddle, 
with the brown crust that has formed under it. Turn it over on the 
fresh bit of butter and continue in this way until all have been turned. 
Then, beginning with the first oyster, take off all and place them on 
the toast. The entire work must be done rapidly or the oysters will 
be cooked too much. Never try the shorter way of buttering the 
entire griddle at once ; if you do you will have burned butter, which 
will destroy the true flavor of the oysters. 

Grilled Oysters. — Same as Griddled Oysters. 

Oyster Patties. — Make tart shells in small patty-pans as for fruit 
tarts, and fill with oysters prepared as follows : Take 1 quart of oys- 
ters, place in a large baking dish with butter, pepper and salt to taste. 
Bake until the oysters curl. In the meantime put in a saucepan 1 




78 SHELL FISH. 

pint of milk. When this scalds, add 1 large teaspoonful of corn 
starch moistened with cold milk; let boil, season with salt and a 
tablespoonful of butter. A dash of cayenne improves the flavor. 
The gravy should be quite thick. To this mixture add the oysters, 
but do not let them boil. Spread a napkin over a platter. Fill the 

patty-shells and serve at once. These 
patties may be changed by filling the 
patty-pans with raw paste, pouring in the 
above mixture, covering the top of each 
one thickly with fine bread crumbs, dot- 
ting it with bits of butter, and baking in 
the oven until the crust is done. Serve 
in the same manner. Milk may be omitted 
in this last way and the oyster liquor simply seasoned highly with 
salt, pepper and butter, thickened with corn starch, scalded and poured 
over the oysters, and the patties filled as before. 

Oyster Patties. — H. Put into a saucepan 1 tablespoonful of butter, 
a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and a teacupful of cracker 
crumbs. When thoroughly mixed add 1 pint of chopped oysters ; 
simmer for 10 minutes ; pour into shells ; sprinkle with cracker 
crumbs. Place in the oven for about 3 minutes. Serve hot. 

Oyster Pates, — One pint of cream, 1 quart of oysters, 1 table- 
spoonful of fl.our, yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste, 
let the cream come to a boil, mix the flour with a little cold milk and 
stir into the boiling cream and add the seasoning ; let the oysters 
come to a boil in their own liquor, drain and put each oyster into 3 or 
4 pieces, add them to the cream and boil up once ; then add the beaten 
yolks, have the patty-shells baked ; fill with the mixture and serve. 
This makes 20 shells. Bake the shells in patty-pans, use rich puff paste. 
It is nice to bake small rounds for covers also. Heat the shells if 
they are not freshly baked. Put on the covers and set in the oven for 
4 or 5 minutes. 

Oyster Pates. — II. Stew some oysters in a little of their own 
liquor, add cream, butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt. Let cool. 
Have shells of puff paste, or little cases, prepared, lay two or three 
oysters in each, and pour in the gravy. 

Mushroom and Oyster Pates. — One can select oysters, put in a 
strainer and drain liquor off; one-half can of mushrooms cut rather 



SHELL FISH. 79 

small, according to size, pour juice of both together, one tablespoon- 
ful of capers chopped fine, 2 sprigs of parsley. When this is pre- 
pared put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a stew-pan. When melted 
add as much flour as it will absorb, stir into a smooth white roux, 
pour the liquor in gradually until a very thick broth is obtained. Stir 
continually, as some cans of oysters do not have much juice, add a 
little water, not too much ; if the roux is too thin, the oysters will 
draw; salt and pepper to taste, add a few drops of lemon juice just 
before serving. If for an oyster pie, throw in all together and fill pie 
immediately. Bake 15 minutes in a hot oven. If for patties, let all 
be hot before putting in cases. 

Oysters a la Newburg-. — Put 25 oysters over the fire in their own 
liquor, stir carefully until they come to a boiling point, drain carefully, 
put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, add a tablespoonful 
of flour, mix. Add a gill of cream, and when boiHng add the yolks 
of 2 eggs and the oysters. Bring again to a boiling point, season, 
and turn into a dish. Sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry and 
garnish with tiny crackers. If wine is not used, the same quantity of 
lemon juice may be substituted. 

Potato Oyster Pats. — Peel and boil 12 potatoes, mash fine, salt 
to taste, add piece of butter the size of an egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of 
sweet cream ; beat lightly ; when cold work into pats, putting 2 oys- 
ters into each ; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker meal ; put butter on 
the top of each ; bake a light brown in quick oven. 

Oysters a la Poulette. — Wash a solid quart of oysters in their 
own liquor and drain in a colander. When well drained set aside. 
Strain the liquor and put half a pint into a saucepan. When it boils 
skim carefully, and stir into it a heaping teaspoonful of flour, mixed 
smooth, in 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Let it boil 5 minutes. 
Pour a quart of cream into a double boiler, and when it begins to boil 
add the thickened oyster liquor, and season with salt, pepper, a slight 
grating of nutmeg and a dash of cayenne. Have ready the well- 
beaten yolks of 4 eggs, and add to them half a cup of cold cream. 
Turn the oysters into the boiling mixture, together with a tablespoon- 
ful of butter and the egg mixture. Cook for .3 minutes, stirring all 
the time. Remove from the fire immediately, and serve with a 
border of puff paste cakes. If liked, a tablespoonful of lemon juice 
pr a wine glass of sherry may be added, just as the oysters are 



80 SHELL FISH. 

taken from the fire. Two beaten eggs can be used instead of the 4 
egg yolks. 

Oyster Griddle Cakes. — Two scant cups of sifted flour and 2 
scant teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a little salt and sift twice, always 
twice. Mix with sweet milk, and a teaspoonful of sweet thick cream; 
if thin cream use 2 teaspoonfuls. Do not have the batter too thick. 
Dot the griddle all over with a little, not nearly as much as for regu- 
lar griddle cakes ; lay an oyster on each cake ; salt and pepper; cover 
with a little more of the batter, and cook rather slowly until a nice 
brown. Turn and drain the oysters. Grease the griddle well each 
frying. Warm the plates. Eat hot with butter. 

Another batter to be used the same way : Two eggs (to a pint of 
oysters), 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half tea- 
spoonful of salt. Thin with the oyster liquor and milk until thick 
enough to drop from the spoon. 

Oyster and Miisliroom Ragout. — A ragout of oysters is con- 
sidered by many the most savory way to prepare them. Boil 25 oysters 
in their liquor for 1 minute and drain, saving the liquor. Let cold 
water run over the oysters, remove the hard parts, or eyes, and throw 
them away. Peel a pint of fresh mushrooms, cut them in pieces and 
simmer for 5 minutes with 2 ounces of butter, season with salt and pep- 
per, add the oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor, a gill of thick, 
sweet, hot cream, and a teaspoonful of butter cut into small bits and 
rolled in flour. Let them boil up once and serve in individual dishes. 

Oyster Pie. — Line a deep dish with nice paste, dredge the crust 
with flour, pour in 1 pint of oysters. Season well with butter, salt and 
pepper, sprinkling flour over all. Pour on a little of the oyster liquor. 
Cover with a crust. Two hard-boiled eggs chopped coarsely and 
mixed with the oysters, will be found a desirable addition. The eggs 
and the flour may be omitted and a cup of cracker crumbs used instead. 
One-half teaspoonful of mace is liked by some. Serve as an entree. 

Veal and Oyster Pie. — One pound and a half of veal cutlets, three- 
quarters of a pound of ham, 50 oysters, a cupful of weak gravy or 
broth, the peel of half a lemon; pepper, salt and puff paste. Cut the 
veal into small, neat cutlets and spread over each a thin layer of 
minced ham ; season them with pepper, salt and grated lemon peel, 
and roll each cutlet round. Line the sides of a pie dish with good 
paste, put a layer of rolled veal at the bottom, then a layer of oysters, 



SHELL FISH. 81 

then another layer of veal and a layer of oysters ; on top dredge each 
layer with a little flour. Pour over it a gravy made of a cupful of 
weak gravy or broth, the grated peel of half a lemon, the oyster liquor 
strained and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Put a crust over the 
top, ornament it in any way you please; egg it over and bake in a 
moderate oven 1}4 hours. 

Boston Oyster Pie. — Line a deep pie plate with puff paste, or 
ordinary pie paste. Fold a clean towel and put into the dish to sup- 
port the lid, and place over it a sheet of paste for said lid. Bake the 
paste well. When done remove the lid and take out the towel. In 
the meantime drain the oysters, carefully strain the liquor and put the 
oysters in a stew pan with just enough of the liquor to keep them 
from burning. Season with pepper, salt and butter. Add a little 
sweet cream or milk and a couple of crackers rolled fine. Let the 
oysters simmer, but not boil. Remove the upper crust of pastry, fill 
the dish with the oysters and gravy, replace the cover and serve the 
whole hot. The upper crust can be baked separately on a pie plate 
same size as the pie and then used for a cover. 

Little Oyster Pies. — Take the small pie plates half the size of 
ordinary pie plates, line with puff paste, lay on 5 or 6 large oysters, 
or enough smaller ones to cover the bottom. Dot with bits of butter 
and season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Make an egg 
batter as for Oyster Griddle Cakes, and pour over the oysters. Bake 
in a hot oven 20 minutes. Some cooks cover the whole with a crust 
of the paste, pricking it with a fork, and bake until a delicate brown. 
These are really to be served individually, and are more appropriate 
to a restaurant than a private family. A large pie could be made in 
the same manner. 

Oysters an Beiirre Noir. — Place 1 pint of oysters in a saucepan 
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and allow them to plump 
in their own liquor, tossing lightly with a fork. In another pan put 
2 tablespoons of butter and stir until it browns (not burns), then add 
third of a cup of vinegar, and when hot pour over the oysters (draining 
them first) and serve at once with thin points of dry toast. 

Curled Oysters. — Put slices of generously buttered toast in a 
dripping-pan; pour over them a quart of oysters, season with salt 
and pepper. Put in the upper part of a very hot oven and bake until 
the oysters begin to shrivel. 



82 SHELL FISH. 

Oyster Loaf. — Drain 50 good, fat oysters. Put them over the 
fire, watch carefully to a boil. Drain, add to the liquor sufficient 
milk to make J pint. Rub together 2 tablespoonfuls butter and 2 of 
flour. Add milk and the oyster liquor. When boiling add oysters, 
1 beaten egg, a tablespoonful of parsley, and a palatable seasoning 
of salt and pepper. Serve hot in a boat made from stale bread nicely 
fried. To make a boat use half a loaf stale bread from which the middle 
has been taken, brush with melted butter and put in a quick oven 
until a light brown. 

Oyster Loaf. — H. Cut the tops from the requisite number of 
small French rolls ; brush over with melted butter and set in the oven 
to brown while you prepare the oysters. Allow 3 large oysters for 
each roll ; bring them to the boil in their liquor ; lift out and thicken 
the liquor with a white roux of butter and flour ; add a gill of cream 
and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, with a dash of nutmeg. 
This sauce must be very thick ; lay in the oysters ; fill the rolls with 
the mixture ; set on the tops and serve at once. Roux is a creamy 
mixture of butter and flour melted together. Instead of the rolls, 
cases may be prepared as follows; Cut a long loaf of bread into 
slices about 2 inches thick, a baker's 5 cent loaf will make 6. Now 
trim off the crust and make each piece square. Dig the crumb out 
of the centre of each piece, leaving sides and bottom like a box — 
that is, make a square box out of each slice of bread. Brush each 
box over with melted butter and put in a quick oven until a light 
brown. Fill with the above mixture. 

Croiistade of Oysters. — Take a stale loaf of bread. If home- 
made, bake a loaf for the purpose in a 2 quart basin. When ready 
for use, with a sharp knife remove the heart of the bread, working 
carefully not to break the crust. Break up the crumbs very fine and 
dry slowly in the oven ; then quickly fry 3 cupfuls of them in 2 table- 
spoonfuls of butter until crisp and golden brown, stirring all the 
time; 2 minutes will usually be enough time. Put 1 quart of cream 
(if you have it, or, wanting that, the richest milk you can get) on to 
boil. Just as it boils stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth 
in half a cup of cold milk. Boil 8 minutes, seasoning with salt and 
pepper to taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the cronstade, then a 
layer of oysters, which dredge well with salt and pepper; then 
another layer of sauce and one of fried crumbs. Continue this 



SHELL FISH. 83 

until the cronstade is nearly full, having the last layer a thick one of 
crumbs. Bake slowly half an hour ; garnish with parsley. It takes 
lyi pints of oysters and about 3 teaspoonfuls of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper. 

Pickled Oysters. — Put 100 large oysters, with the liquor, into a 
porcelain-lined kettle. Heat slowly until the oysters are very hot, 
but not boiling. Take them out with a skimmer and set aside in a 
stone jar to cool. To the liquor which remains in the kettle add 1 
pint of vinegar, 1 ounce of whole mace, the same quantity of whole 
cloves, and 2 large red peppers, cut into pieces. When it comes to 
a boil pour over the oysters. Cover the jar and put in a cool place. 
The following day put the pickled oysters into pint glass jars and 
seal. The air, like the light, will turn them dark, so keep the jars in 
a dark, cool place. Will keep 2 or 3 weeks. To be eaten cold. 

Deviled Oysters. — To devil oysters in their shells, select large 
ones, and when opened keep them in their deep shells with the liquor. 
Place the shells on a gridiron, season with cayenne pepper and salt, 
placing a small piece of butter on the top of each oyster. Have 
your fire bright, and a few minutes will suffice to cook them. 

Deviled Oysters. — 11. Twenty-five nice fat oysters, half pint of 
cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of 2 eggs, salt and cayenne pepper 
to taste. Drain the oysters and chop them middling fine and drain 
again. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together 
and stir into the cream when boiling. As soon as it thickens take it 
from the fire and add all the other ingredients. Beat the yolks before 
adding them. Have the deep shells of the oysters washed perfectly 
clean, fill them with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, 
put them in a baking pan and brown in a quick oven for 5 minutes. 
Serve in the shells, garnish with parsley. 

They may be cooked in clam or silver scallop shells, but are much 
better done in their own shells, as there is a flavor imparted by the 
heated shell which greatly enriches the mixture. A word of caution 
— avoid long cooking, as it makes them dry. If your oven will not 
brown them in 5 or 6 minutes, and you have no salamander, heat 
your fire shovel red-hot. Take the shells from the oven, hold the 
shovel over them until they brown. These may be prepared several 
hours before they are wanted and placed in the oven and browned at 



84 SHELL FISH. 

serving time. One-half teaspoonful dry mustard is a spicy addition 
to the seasoning. Instead of thickening the preparation with flour, 
some cooks use for this amount of oysters, half cupful of rolled cracker 
crumbs omitting the eggs and adding the butter to the crumbs and 
stirring into the boiling cream. Cook in same manner. 

Stuffed Oysters. — Wipe and season large oysters with salt and 
pepper; roll them in cracker dust; spread half the oysters with force- 
meat; cover these with the remaining oysters; press them together 
gently; roll them in the crumbs again and fry in the usual way. 
Serve on a folded napkin, with lemon points. A bread dressing sea- 
soned with onions and mixed with egg may be used. 

Stuffed Oysters. — II. A delicious, but troublesome method of 
serving this dish. For 24 large oysters take for force-meat the breast of 
a fowl, chopped, pounded and rubbed fine. One-fourth of a cupful of 
cream or milk, eighth of a cupful of stale bread crumbs free of crust, the 
white of 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
tiny bit of white pepper and a slight grating of nutmeg. Put the bread 
and cream in a small saucepan and cook until a smooth paste is formed. 
Take this paste from the fire and add the seasoning, chicken and the 
white of the egg well beaten. Mix all well and set away to cool. 
Dry the oysters on a soft towel and season them well with salt and 
pepper. Now roll them in fine bread crumbs and lay them on a 
large dish. Divide the forcemeat into 12 parts and spread evenly on 
12 oysters. Lay the other 12 oysters on the first dozen, pressing 
gently with the aid of the knife to make them stick. Put into a deep 
plate the yolk of the egg left from the forcemeat and 1 whole egg, 
and beat well with a fork. Season with salt. Dip the stuffed oysters 
in this egg and then roll them in bread crumbs, being careful to have 
every part covered with the egg and crumbs. When all are done 
place them in a frying basket and cook until they are a rich brown 
in fat at the temperature of about 400 degrees. It will take about 
1 1/< minutes to fry them. The stuffed oysters may be kept in a cool 
place for several hours before frying. If wished, iiiaitrc dc Hotel 
sauce may be served with them. 

T^ittle Pijis in Blankets. — Season large oysters with salt and 
pepper. Cut fat English bacon in very thin slices, wrap an oyster in 
each slice and fasten with a little wooden toothpick. Heat a frying 
pan and put in the little pig. Cook just long enough to crisp the 




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SHELL FISH. 85 

bacon, about 2 minutes. Place on slices of toast that have been cut 
into small pieces. Do not remove the skewers; garnish with parsley. 
Have the pan very hot before the pigs are put in and shake con- 
tinually; do not burn. If 2 or 3 drops of lemon juice are squeezed 
over each oyster before rolling up, the flavor will be improved. Have 
small rounds or triangles of hot toast, buttered, lay on each one or 
more oysters according to size, and serve quickly. Garnish with cut 
lemon and parsley. 

Oyster Saiite. — Twenty-five nice fat oysters, quarter pound of Irish 
breakfast bacon, pepper and flour. Drain the oysters and dry them 
with a towel, then sprinkle with pepper and roll them in flour. Put 
the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying pan, and let all the fat fry 
out of it; then remove the bacon and cover the bottom of the pan 
with oysters; as soon as crisp and brown on one side turn and brown 
on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast. These are de- 
licious. If no Irish bacon is at hand, use the ordinary smoked pork. 

Oysters a la Norinandie. — One pint of large oysters, remove 
from their liquor and put over the fire with 1 teaspoonful of butter, 
juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful celery salt, let simmer 3 minutes and 
remove. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, cook it for 2 
minutes with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Add 1 cupful of chicken 
broth, 1 cupful of the oyster liquor, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom 
liquor and cook 5 minutes and remove. Add half teaspoonful of sea- 
soning salt and 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice; 
add this slowly to the sauce ; then 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and 
last of all the oysters. Let them reach boiling point and pour over 
6 slices of toast. 

Oyster Rarebit. — Clean and remove the hard muscle from half a 
pint of oysters; parboil them in their own liquor until their edges curl, 
and remove to a hot bowl. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and half 
pound of cheese broken in small bits, 1 saltspoon each of salt and 
mustard, and a few grains of cayenne into a dish; while the butter is 
melting beat 2 eggs slightly and add to them the oyster liquor; mix 
this gradually to the melted cheese; add the oysters and turn at once 
over hot toast. 

Oyster Potpie. — Scald a quart can of oysters in their own liquor. 
When it boils skim out the oysters and set aside in a warm place. 
To the liquor add a pint of hot water. Season with pepper and salt 



86 SHELL FISH. 

and a generous piece of butter. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour 
rubbed smooth in cold milk. Have ready light biscuit dough, rolled 
half inch thick, cut into inch squares, drop into the boiling stew, cover 
closely and cook 40 minutes. Stir the oysters in, let boil up once 
and serve in the sauce dish. A nice entree. 

Smothered Oysters. — Into a saucepan put a tablespoon of butter, 
a saltspoon of pepper and a teaspoon of salt ; when hot add a pint of 
strained oysters ; shake the pan to keep the oysters from sticking, 
and when plump serve on toasted crackers. 

Oyster Sliort-Cake. — Make a short-cake and bake on pie plates. 
Put a quart of oysters over the fire with half cupful of milk and quarter 
cupfulof water, 2 teaspoonfuls butter, salt and pepper; thicken with 1 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in the water. When the short- 
cakes are baked, split and spread oysters between and over the top. 

Oyster Sausages. — One cup of chicken or veal minced fine, 1 
cup of bread crumbs, 1 ounce of beef suet chopped fine, 30 oysters 
chopped, add 1 ^^'g, season with black pepper and mace and a little 
cayenne pepper. Make into balls or sausage shape. Boil in egg and 
bread crumbs and fry. Serve with a rich, brown gravy. 

Oyster Cocktails. — The following recipe was furnished by the 
chef of a prominent New York club. For every 100 small oysters 
take 4 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, a tablespoonful of pepper 
vinegar^ a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the juice of 2 
lemons, 2 or 3 drops of tabasco sauce and a cup of oyster liquor. 
Drain the oysters free from their liquor and strain the required 
amount before using. Mix the cocktail fully half an hour before 
serving, and thoroughly chill. 

Lobsters. 

If purchased alive, lobsters should be of a dark green color and 
the shell not bruised nor broken. If already boiled, the shell should 
be firm and a good bright red, with the tail well curled under. If 
the tail hangs out straight they have died before being boiled, and 
are not good. Epicures prefer the " hen lobsters " on account of the 
coral Of eggs. Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being 
tojjgb. 

Boiled Lobster. — Have sufficient well-salted water boiling to 
cotieT the desired number of lobsters. Drop them in alive and boil 



SHELL FISH. 87 

till thoroughly cooked, which will take from twenty to thirty minutes. 
When boiled they should look a good red color and seem firm. If 
boiled without salt they will taste insipid ; half cup of salt to 4 pounds 
of lobster is the proportion. To open and take from the shell break 
off the large claws, separate the upper jointed part and drain the 
liquor into a cup. Then remove the small claws and pull the tail 
from the body. Crack the large claws and joints well with a mallet, 
and remove the meat with a fork. A nut-pick or skewer will be of 
assistance in taking the meat from the joints. If there is much white 
fat in the shells, scrape it on to a plate. Lay the tails flat on a board 
and cut nearly through lengthwise a little to one side of the centre 
by pressing with a carver or chopping-knife. Having laid the tail 
open you will see a black line running through the centre, which 
must be carefully removed. Pull the bodies from the shell and care- 
fully scrape every bit of green fat (" tomalley ") and coral on to a 
plate. Here again look out for the black line, as it runs the whole 
length of the lobster. It may not be black all the way, but will be 
apparent as a whitish cord. The bodies may be broken lengthwise, 
the cells on the sides broken apart and the meat removed. Care 
must be taken in doing this not to get the bony substance with the 
meat. Save the best of the small claws to garnish the salad and add 
the rest to the shells. The head is not to be used. The sand pouch 
near the throat is to be removed. Care must be taken that none of 
the tough gill-like particles found under the body shall get mixed 
with the meat, as they are very indigestible. Serve the boiled lobster 
meat warm with a sauce, or cold as a relish. 

Lobster Sauce. — Bruise the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs with 
the back of a wooden spoon, or pound in a mortar, with a tablespoon- 
ful of water, and the soft inside and spawn of the lobster ; rub all 
quite smooth, with a teaspoonful of made mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls 
of salad oil and 3 or 4 of vinegar ; season with a dash of cayenne, a 
little salt, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce and 1 of tarragon vinegar. 
This sauce may accompany a lobster to table, or be used for a salad 
dressing, and poured over just before serving. 

Broiled Lobster. — A lobster not less than 10}4 inches long should 
be selected and split in two lengthwise, which instantly kills it. 
Remove the entrail and stomach. Brush a little butter over the lob- 
ster and broil the shell side first, then turn and broil the other. 



88 SHELL FISH. 

Serve with melted butter. The lobster should never be boiled and 
then broiled. Crack the large claws and joints before broiling, so 
the meat can be removed readily after it is cooked. Garnish with 
sliced lemon, or parsley. 

Broiled Lobster. — H. Remove the meat from shell whole, where- 
ever it is possible, place it on the broiler, and broil slowly until a 
delicate brown. When done pour over it a sauce made with 2 table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter seasoned with salt and a bit of cayenne 
pepper; add to this 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and a little chopped 
parsley. 

Baked Lobster. — Baked lobsters are considered a great delicacy. 
Split the lobster open, remove the stomach, or lady, and the intestine. 
Lay the 2 pieces in a baking pan. Spread over the top of each salt, 
pepper and butter and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Bake about 40 
minutes in a hot oven; during the baking baste it twice by pouring 
over it a little melted butter. 

Baked Lobster. — II. Meat of 2 lobsters, half a can of tomatoes, or 
a pint of fresh tomatoes stewed, a cup of crumbs, salt, cayenne pep- 
per and onion to season, butter the size of an egg. Rub a baking 
dish with an onion, melt a little of the butter in the bottom, then add 
the other ingredients in layers. Finish with a layer of crumbs dotted 
with butter. Bake brown and serve hot. If any is left over put in 
a smaller dish and brown again. 

Baked Lobster. — III. Put a lump of butter in a saucepan. Add 
a couple of teaspoons of flour and cook for several minutes, stirring 
all the time. Thin to a thick cream with milk. Add to this sauce 
the chopped lobster meat. Take 1 good-sized lobster or 2 small 
ones ; pick out all the meat; chop it fine, add a pinch of cayenne and 
a little lemon juice. Put this in small baking dishes, 1 for each 
person, and sprinkle with grated bread crumbs. Bake a few moments 
till brown. 

Scalloped Lobster. — Prepare the lobster as above. Put in one 
large baking dish. Sprinkle cracker dust over it and bake brown. 
Serve with hot rolls for luncheon or tea. 

Lobster a la Bordelaise. — Open carefully 1 large lobster ; cut the 
claws into 4 pieces each ; split the tail into halves and cut each half 
into 3 pieces. The body and the small bits of lobster may be served 
at another time for bisque lobster or for deviled lobster. Put 2 



SHELL FISH. 89 

tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan ; allow it to brown carefully 
without burning ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ; brown again ; take 
it from the fire and add a pint of good chicken stock ; stir constantly 
now until it boils ; add a tablespoonful of chopped ham and 1 of 
onion, a sprig of parsley and cloves ; put the sauce on the back of 
the stove and cook slowly for 10 minutes; strain; add 6 fresh mush- 
rooms, peeled and cut into quarters, and the lobster ; put it over hot 
water and cook for 30 minutes. Then add a teaspoonful of salt, a 
half saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, or the same 
amount of lemon juice. 

Fricassee Liobster. — Chop the meat of a boiled lobster. Put 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan and add 2 tablespoonfuls of 
flour and mix over the fire without browning. Now add 1 pint of 
milk and stir constantly until boiling. Add teaspoonful of salt, half 
teaspoonful of pepper. Pour this over the lobster, which should be 
in a double boiler. Allow it to stand over the fire until the lobster is 
thoroughly hot. Then take from the fire and add the yolks of 2 eggs 
and tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, and it is ready to serve. 
This is delicious. 

Lobster Chops. — Put 1 large tablespoonful of butter into a sauce- 
pan, and when it bubbles stir in three tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir 
until the flour is cooked, and pour in a cup of cream, or rich milk, 
and 2 cupfuls of boiled lobster (fresh or canned), cut into dice. Stir 
till scalding hot, take from fire, and when cool add beaten yolks of 2 
eggs, 1 tablespoonful of sherry wine, one-half grated nutmeg, salt and 
pepper to taste. When the mass is cold form into chops that are 
pointed at one end, roll in beaten egg; then in cracker crumbs ; fry in 
a wire basket in boiling fat. Drain well ; put a claw into the end of 
each chop. Serve on a folded napkin. Garnish the dish with parsley. 

Canned Lobster, To Cook. — Drain the meat thoroughly, then 
spread it upon a platter, and pick out the coral. Rub the coral 
smooth and mix it with the braided yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs ; 
mince the lobster meat fine. Make a batter of milk and flour and 1 
or 2 eggs; beat all the lumps out of the flour, and add the lobster and 
coral to this, season with salt, red pepper and a little lemon juice. 
You need flour enough to make a batter stiff enough to hold the 
meat in shape. When formed into round cakes and fried in hot but- 
ter they are very nice. 



90 SHELL FISH. 

Liobster Chowder. — Take one boiled lobster weighing 4 pounds 
and cut the meat into small pieces. Roll finely 6 crackers, add 1 cup 
of butter, salt and a little cayenne pepper. To this add 3 pints of 
milk and 1 of water. Stir in the chopped lobster, boil two or three 
minutes, and serve; a smaller quantity can be made. 

Potted Lobster. — This preparation must be made of a fine hen 
lobster when full of spawn. First boil the fish thoroughly, then 
allow it to get cold ; pick out all the solid meat, pound it in a mortar, 
and add slowly by degrees a very little finely-pounded mace, a good 
dash of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. While pounding throw in 
1 or 2 small dice-like pieces of butter ; when the whole is well mixed 
and beaten to the consistency of a paste, press it down into a pot, 
pour clarified butter over the top and cover with damped bladder. 
The spawn must be well washed, dried on a cloth, and pounded with 
the meat ; this gives color to the whole. 

Lobster Mayoiiaise. — Put the lobster in a well-salted, boiling 
water, and cook 20 minutes. Remove the meat, leaving the shell as 
whole as possible ; cut the meat in small dice and set away in the 
refrigerator. Make dressing of the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 
mashed to a paste, and add salt and red pepper and a pinch of mus- 
tard, a tablespoonful of vinegar and the same of sweet or olive oil ; 
work this together, one ingredient at a time, until it has the con- 
sistency of good cream. Mix dressing and meat together by shaking. 
For a set piece, fill the shell and place on table. If there is a spawn 
attached to the lobster, cook it as it is ; remove afterwards and add it 
to the dressing. 

Lunclieon Lobster.. — Mince the lobster quite finely. Make a 
salad dressing of oil, mustard, salt and a very little vinegar, well 
mixed with the hard-boiled yolks of 3 eggs, and then thoroughly stir 
into the lobster. Make into round balls as large as small oranges 
and place in the oven till well heated. Before sending to the table 
lay each ball carefully on a lettuce leaf and fill a platter in this way. 

Lobster a la Newburg-. — Four pounds lobster, yolks of 3 hard- 
boiled eggs, one-quarter pound butter, one-third cup cream. Mash 
yolks fine with 2 tablespoons cream, rub butter smooth with 1 large 
tablespoon flour and put in a farina boiler ; when butter is melted 
add cream, and stir until scalding hot ; add yolks and lobster, season 
with salt and red pepper, and stir gently until heated through. Serve 



SHELL FISH. 91 

at once. Some like one-quarter cup of sherry wine added after cook- 
ing. Canned lobster can be used. In this case drain carefully from oil. 

Lobster Farcie. — Make a very rich drawn butter by adding to a 
full pint of boiling milk 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed 
smooth with a quarter of a pound of butter. Stir till thick, then add 
the meat of 2 medium-sized lobsters chopped quite fine, and a can of 
French mushrooms drained from the liquor and chopped. Season 
highly with salt, red pepper, mustard and mace. Mix all thoroughly 
and let it stand for an hour. Fill into the shells of the tails and the 
backs. Sprinkle crumbs over the top, dot with butter and bake a 
nice brown. Serve in the shells and garnish with parsley and slices 
of lemon. Wipe over the outside of the shells with olive oil, to help 
preserve the color. 

Curried Lobster. — Cut up the meat of a lobster in small pieces, 
season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Fry a slice of pork brown 
in a saucepan, or three tablespoonfuls of butter. Remove the pork 
(if pork is used), add two tablespoonfuls of flour and a small tea- 
spoonful of curry powder. Stir the mixture until it is brown; then 
gradually add a cupful and a half of stock and season with salt and 
pepper. Add the lobster and cook six minutes longer. Place small 
pieces of crisp toast upon a warm dish and pour the curry upon them. 
Garnish with triangles of toast and bits of parsley. If the flavor of 
onion be liked, fry a small onion in the butter before adding the flour 
and curry powder, but in this case strain the sauce before the lobster 
is put with it. To give the dish an Eastern flavor mix 1 teacupful 
of hot boiled rice with 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, and turn over 
the curry. 

Stewed Lobster. — Pick the meat from 1 large or 2 small lobsters 
in large pieces. Boil the shells for 20 minutes in a pint of water with 
a blade of mace and a few whole peppercorns. Strain the liquor. 
Mix the coral and the fat of the lobster with a few spoonfuls of melted 
butter, a wine glass of -white wine and the juice of half a lemon 
strained. Put in the pickled lobster, boil it up and serve. Half a 
teaspoonful of made mustard is an improvement. The wine can be 
omitted. 

Lobster Cutlets. — Season 2 cupfuls of lobster meat, cut in small 
dice, with salt, white and red pepper; bring to a boil a cupful of 
cream or chicken stock, and stir into this two ounces of butter rub- 



92 SHELL FISH. 

bed with a tablespoonful of flour ; cook and stir for a minute, and add 
the lobster; cook several minutes longer, and add two well-beaten 
eggs and a tablespoonful of lemon juice; spread on a dish to cool, 
and when cold mould into cutlets, roll in egg, then in crumbs and fry- 
in hot fat. Serve tartar sauce with these if wished. 

Lobster Patties. — Prepare boiled lobster as in Baked Lobster HL 
Put in patty cases ; cover with paste. Leave out a portion of the 
sauce before baking. When baked, open, pour in the heated sauce 
that was left, and put back the cover. Serve hot. 

Deviled Lobster. — Take the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving 
the coral. Season highly with mustard, cayenne, salt, and some kind 
of table sauce; stew, put in a covered saucepan, with just hot water 
enough to keep from burning. Rub the coral smooth, moisten with 
vinegar until thin enough to pour easily, and stir into the saucepan. 
Let boil up once; stir in a tablespoonful of butter; let boil up again 
and serve. 

Canapes of Lobster. — See Canapes of Crab. 

Clams. 

To Open Clam Shells. — Wash the shells and stand them on the 
hinge end in a bake pan. Put a few spoonsful of boiling water in the 
pan ; set the pan in the oven until the shells part, when they may be 
easily opened and cooked as required. 

Clam Chowder. — For clam chowder cut the soft parts from a 
quart of hard-shell clams of the large, tender variety called in some 
sections " cherry-stones." Chop fine the hard parts, put them over 
the fire with water to cover and cook till tender. Meantime make 
ready 2 onions, peeled and sliced, G potatoes peeled and diced, a pint 
of tomatoes peeled and cut small, and half a pound of pilot biscuit 
or crackers soaked in milk. When the chopped clams are tender 
take them out of the kettle and put in the above ingredients in layers, 
adding also the soft parts of the clams as well as the boiled portions, 
and seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, thyme, savory and sweet 
marjoram ; entirely cover with cold water, and cook until potatoes 
and onions are done. 

Clam Chowder. — II. One quart clams ; strain and save the liquor; 
cut off the black part, or stomach, and do not use ; chop the remain- 
ing hard parts rather small ; fry from one large slice fat salt pork cut 



SHELL FISH. 93 

into dice with half onion sliced, and when well done strain into kettle 
and add clam liquor, 2 cups sliced (or cut into quarters) potatoes ; 
cover with hot water, add salt and pepper to taste ; cook about 20 
minutes ; add the chopped clams and a cup of cream if you have it, 
and then thin down with milk till you have about 3 quarts in all, or 
till it tastes right, not too " clammy;" let it come to a boil and serve 
very hot in hot soup plates with pilot bread or crackers. 

Coney Island Chowder, with Thyme. — Take 3 middle-size 
potatoes, cut up as small as you like, put in 3 pints of water and boil 
10 minutes; put in 1 quart of clams and 1 cup of canned tomatoes, 
boil five minutes longer, then skim ; now take a slice of salt pork 
and cut in dice, fry out and put scraps in chowder; in the remaining 
fat fry out 2 large sliced onions, light brown; turn all in chowder 
and boil 10 minutes longer; season with pepper, salt and a heaping 
teaspoonful of thyme, and, just before serving, break in common 
crackers. 

Canned Clam Chowder. — Make after any of the above rules 
from canned clams. If they are perfectly fresh, the result will be sat- 
isfactory. 

Cream of Clams. — One pint of water, 1 pint of cream, 1 quart of 
milk, about 50 large clams, 4 tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, \y^ teaspoonfuls salt, one-eighth teaspoonful cayenne, 
1 teaspoonful onion juice, or a tablespoonful of finely-minced onion 
and a slight grating of nutmeg. Wash the clams, and, after putting 
them in a stew-pan with the water, place on the stove. When the 
liquid begins to boil skim it. Cook for five minutes, then strain the 
liquid into a bowl. Put the clams in the chopping-bowl, and mash 
as fine as you can ; then rub through a sieve as much of the mass as 
possible. Put the strained liquid and the clams on the stove to keep 
hot. Beat the flour and butter together, and gradually pour the hot 
milk upon the mixture. Return it to the double-boiler, and cook for 
five minutes. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, onion-juice, meat- 
extract, clams and liquor, besides the pint of hot cream. Cook for 5 
minutes, then serve. 

Cream of Oysters and Clams. — Wash and chop 1 pint of oys- 
ters; also wash 1 pint of clams; remove the soft part, and save to 
add to the soup at the last. Chop the hard parts, heat slowly the 
chopped oysters and clams to the boiling point, and strain through a 



94 SHELL FISH. 

cheese-cloth. Scald a quart of milk with a slice of onion, a blade of 
mace, a sj)rig of parsley and a bit of bay leaf. Remove the season- 
ings, and add the milk to the stock, and thicken with 3 tablespoon- 
fuls each of butter and flower, cooked together. Season with salt 
and pepper ; add the soft part of the clams, cook for one minute, and 
serve. A grating of nutmeg may take the place of the mace, if pre- 
ferred. 

Fried Soft-Shell Clams. — Procure freshly-opened soft-shell clams, 
remove them with a fork out of their liquor on to a soft towel, and, 
after drying, lay the clams on a dish, dust over with flour; then take 
each one separately on a fork, dip first in beaten egg, then roll in 
cracker-dust; lay them thus prepared on a clean board for thirty 
minutes to dry. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of lard in a fry- 
ing-pan over the fire. When hot put in as many clams as will con- 
veniently fill the pan. Fry light-brown, first on one side, then on 
the other; fry the remainder the same way, using more lard and but- 
ter if necessary. Arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and serve with 
biscuits and butter, or buttered toast. 

Fried Clams. — IL Take large clams in the shell (a peck will 
make about two quarts when removed from shell). Slit the necks 
lengthwise on one side, but do not cut or break the clam ; keep the 
clam as near perfect as possible; then wash three or four times in 
cold water; change water as often; stir with the hand. "The secret 
is in the washing." Then roll in corn flour, and fry in hot fat, as you 
would doughnuts. If turned a few times while frying they will not 
stick together. Do not put too many in the fat at once. If done 
right they will stand out nice and round, and look more like dough- 
nuts than clams. Let the fat drain off a little when removing from 
fat; sprinkle with a little salt; good hot or cold; they should not be 
all knotted up in shapeless bunches when done ; if they are, it is be- 
cause they are not washed enough; have the fat hot. 

Scalloped Clams. — Prepare 25 hard clams ; mix in a dish one-half 
pint of cracker crumbs moistened with one-half cup of warm milk 
and one-fourth cup of clam liquor. Add two beaten eggs, a heaping 
tablespoonful of melted butter and the clams chopped fine. Season 
highly with salt and pepper. Fill a dozen clam-shells with this mix- 
ture, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and brown. Or put in one large 
baking-dish and cover with crumbs and brown. 



SHELL FISH. 95 

Scalloped Clams. — IL Put a layer of potatoes in earthen baking- 
pan, little salt and butter, next a layer of clams chopped, then a layer 
of crackers, a little salt and butter; repeat from potatoes until dish is 
full with crackers on top. Fill with milk enough to cover, cover 
tight and bake three-quarters of an hour, then uncover for 15 minutes. 

" Clam Bake " (inland). — This sort of a clam bake can be had 
in February as well as August, and can be prepared in one's kitchen. 
The main article is a large, new tin wash-boiler. The ingredients 
may be all used, or such left out as are inconvenient to obtain. A 
large party can be served and the repast be partaken of with more 
comfort than on a windy beach. In the bottom of the boiler place a 
layer of soft or hard clams, or, better still, some of both. A few of 
the very large ones are good to give more of a clam flavor to the 
entire " bake." Put in the clam liquor and one large cupful of water. 
Then lay over them a large piece of new muslin (well washed). This 
is to take the place of the sea-weed used in the out-of-door clam 
bakes, and answers the purpose completely. On the top of this cloth 
place a layer of potatoes, either sweet, or white, or both. Then 
another cloth, and then a layer of corn on the cob. In summer fresh 
corn with a few layers of husk left on, and in winter take the corn 
that is canned on the cob. Another layer of the cloth. The next 
ingredient is a layer of chickens cut up into quarters (spring, or very 
tender fowls must be used). Cut them in quarters. Another layer of 
cloth. Then a layer of lobsters which have been parboiled. Do not 
crack the shells until time to serve them. Another layer of cloth, 
and then a layer of soft crabs, if they are to be had. If not, have hard 
crabs, or leave this layer out. Cloth again, and then the fish ; sheeps- 
head, blue fish, or indeed almost any kind. Cut in pieces, and cover 
with the last layer of cloth. Top the whole off with a layer of little 
oysters, preferably Blue Points. Then put on the cover of the wash- 
boiler. Set the boiler on the range over a good fire and leave it there 
for an hour and a half It will do all the rest itself It can even be 
done on a gas range. All that is wanted is heat. The steam from 
the clam juice will cook everything thoroughly. While it is steaming 
prepare the sauce. This is a very important part of the bake Make 
plenty of it, for the same sauce is served liberally with each course. 

The Sauce : This is how to make it: — Melt 1 pound of butter, but 
be very careful not to overmelt it, for if it becomes a liquid the other 



96 SHELL FISH. 

ingredients will not blend with it. Let it get just to the consistency 
of molasses, as no flour is used for a thickening. Add 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, 2 
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, half a teaspoonful of red pepper and 
2 tablespoonfuls of pepper sauce. In serving, take out the courses 
as they come ; first, if you wish, serving the broth, then the steamed 
oysters, then the fish, and so on. Leave the boiler on the range all 
the time, so that the chicken and lobsters may be cooking while the 
meal is going on. This will be found a novelty for an informal din- 
ner party. The number of courses here given is 7, but they may be 
increased or diminished as wished. 

Roast Clams iii the Shell. — Roast in a pan over a hot fire, or in 
a hot oven, or, at a " Clam Bake," on hot stones. When they open 
empty the juice into a saucepan; add the clams with butter, pepper 
and a very little salt. 

Clam Pancakes. — Take a pint of the chopped clams ; stir into 
them a beaten egg and add only sifted flour enough to stick them 
together ; drop them by the spoonful into the frying pan, which has 
been well greased with an equal quantity of lard and butter, and cook 
them as pancakes are usually cooked. 

Deviled Clams. — Wash them, open with a knife, chop fine, stew 
in a little of the juice a few minutes ; make a dressing of hard-boiled 
eggs, chopped ; stale bread crumbs, pepper, a little salt, a little mus- 
tard; wet with a little cream and mix well together, then return to the 
half-shells, sprinkle cracker dust on the clams, put a couple of allspice 
on top of each, and butter, which makes them brown. Bake in hot 
oven 20 minutes and send to the table on the open shells. 

Steamed Clams. — Put half peck of clams (first scrubbing the 
shells well) into a boiler with about 1 pint of water. When the shells 
open wide, remove the clams and with scissors cut off the heads and 
cut each clam in two or three pieces ; now take a half pint of the 
water in which they were boiled and the same amount of milk, put on 
stove, and when hot thicken with flour to make nice smooth gravy. 
Add a little butter. Toast 6 slices of bread brown on both sides, lay 
in platter, spread on the clams, then turn on hot gravy and serve. 

Baked Stuffed Clams. — One-half peck of fair-sized clams (white 
shells preferred). Shell them and clean well in cold water, make a 
stuffing of common crackers, well seasoned with sage; save shells, 



SHELL FISH. 97 

well washed ; place a thin layer of stuffing on shell, then from 1 to 2 
clams ; then another thin layer of stuffing, covering with other shell. 
Do the same until all the clams are thus stuffed. Then place them in 
a common baking pan ; put into a very hot oven and bake 15 to 20 
minutes, when they will be done, taking care not to let the shell turn 
red, as they will be spoiled then. The liquid from clams should be 
boiled and adulterated, three-fourths water to one-fourth clam liquid; 
served with the stuffed clams it makes a delicious drink, seasoned 
with celery salt. 

Clams on Toast. — Wash the clams and put them in a kettle with 
just enough water to prevent scorching. Heat them until the shells 
open. Remove the clams, being careful to save the liquor, and heat 
them in part of the liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. If 
too strong, put in half as much cream or rich milk. Toast bread 
carefully, moisten in the remainder of the clam liquor, previously 
heated and slightly seasoned for the purpose ; butter liberally and 
pour the clams over this. Before the milk is added it will be neces- 
sary to boil them gently for a half or three-quarters of an hour. 

Clam Stew may be prepared in the same manner, using all of the 
clam liquor and some water. Thicken slightly and use a goodly 
quantity of butter. 

Crabs. 

Scalloped Crabs. — Wash the crabs free from sand and put into a 
kettle of boiling water, throwing in a handful of salt. Boil 20 minutes 
to half an hour ; when done take from the water, pick out all the 
meat, being careful not to break the shells. To every pint of meat 
put a little salt and pepper ; taste, and if not enough to suit, as tastes 
differ widely, more is easily added. Grate a very little nutmeg into 
the meat, and add 1 tablespoonful of cracker (rolled), or fine bread 
crumbs, 1 egg well beaten and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Mix all 
thoroughly together, wash the crab shells clean, and fill each one quite 
full of the mixture. Sprinkle fine cracker or bread crumbs over the 
top and set in the oven to brown nicely. It will take but a few min- 
utes. Send to the table hot. 

Deviled Crabs. — Twelve large crabs ; one-half pint of cream ; 2 
tablespoonfuls of flour; one-fourth grated nutmeg; 4 egg yolks, 
boiled hard ; 1 tablespoonful each of salt, butter and chopped pars- 
7 



98 SHELL FISH. 

ley ; salt and cayenne to taste, and one-half teaspoonful of mustard. 
Put the crabs in warm water ; add the salt and put the kettle over a 
brisk fire. Boil 30 minutes. Take up and drain ; break off all claws; 
separate the shells ; remove the spongy fingers and the stomach, 
which is found under the head. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream 
on to boil, rub butter and flour together, and add to the boiling 
cream ; stir and cook 2 minutes. Take from the fire, add the crab 
meat, the egg yolks mashed fine, parsley, nutmeg, salt, mustard and 
cayenne. Clear the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the mix- 
ture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in 
a quick oven to brown; or better, put them in a frying basket and 
plunge into boiling lard until a nice brown. 

Crabs on Toast. — Heat 12 ounces of crab meat in a good and 
well-seasoned sauce ; spread this mixture on squares of toast, sprinkle 
with grated Parmesan, dot with butter and set in a hot oven for three 
minutes. Serve on a hot napkin, garnished with parsley. 

Fried Soft-shelled Crabs. — Wash the crabs, remove the lungs 
from both sides and dip into milk, then roll in flour and fry in plenty 
of very hot frying fat. When of a fine color drain and dress on a 
folded napkin, and on top arrange a bunch of fresh parsley. 

Hot Crab. — Pick the meat out of the crab, clear the shell from 
the head. Put the meat together with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and butter, a few bread crumbs and a little vinegar, into the shell 
again. Place in the oven and let heat through, remove, and brown 
by holding a hot shovel over it. A crab shell will hold the meat of 
two crabs. 

Stewed Crabs. — Take out the meat from the shell, put it in a 
saucepan with butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, or a grating of 
nutmeg, and a very little water, dredge with flour and let simmer 
five minutes over a slow fire. Serve hot. Garnish the dish with the 
claws laid around it. The spongy substance from the sides should 
be taken off; also the sand bag. 

Sauted Ci'abs in Butter. — After the crabs have been well washed 
remove the lungs from each side, roll them in flour and saute them in 
very hot, purified butter; when done and of a fine color, dress, r.nd 
to the butter in which they were cooked add some lemon juice ; strrin 
this butter through a strainer over the crabs and strew chopped pr.rs- 
ley over thern. 



SHELL FISH. 99 

Soft-shell Crabs a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Clean, wash well and 
wipe dry some soft-shell crabs ; brush over with melted butter or oil, 
season with one even tablespoonful of salt, one-half even teaspoonful 
of pepper ; put them on a broiler and broil over the clear fire about 
five minutes on each side. Serve at once on a hot dish on buttered 
toast, with one ounce maitre d' hotel butter spread over. In place of 
toast six small slices of bread fried in butter may be laid under the 
crabs. 

Cauapes of Crab. — Drop 6 live hard-shell crabs into boiling 
Aj/ater, add 1 tablespoonful of salt, boil 15 minutes; then remove. 
When cold enough to handle take off the upper shell, extract all the 
meat ; crack the claws and pick out the meat ; season with one even 
teaspoonful of salt and a little cayenne pepper ; then measure — there 
should be a good pint of crab meat. Place a small saucepan, with a 
tablespoonful of butter, over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of fine 
chopped white onions, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful of flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add half a cupful 
of white broth, stir for a few minutes longer; then add 1 pint of crab 
meat, stir and cook 8 minutes. Cut 6 slices from a long-shaped loaf 
of baker's bread, cut off the crust, and fry light brown in butter on 
both sides. Spread the crab mixture in equal portions over the bread 
and set aside. In the mean time melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 
1 tablespoonful of flour, cook and stir a few minutes ; remove from 
the fire, add 8 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese ; mix the ingredients 
and form into round balls of equal size. Place them in the center of 
the canapes, pressing a little in the center. Put the canapes into a 
baking pan and bake light brown in a hot oven, which will take about 
ten minutes ; then remove ; arrange them on a hot dish and serve at 
once. Parmesan cheese is preferred by many rather than American. 
Canapes of lobster are prepared in the same way. 

Oyster Crabs. 

Fricassee of Oyster Crabs. — These tiny crabs, found now and 
then in stewed oysters, are now sold by themselves, and are nearly 
as great a luxury as terrapin, about $3 a quart. For a quart, melt a 
teaspoonful of butter in a frying pan, and add half a small minced 
onion, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of grated 
nutmeg, with 1 of pepper. When the onion has fried a little, add a 



100 SHELL FISH. 

tablespoonful of flour and a cup and a half of rich white broth, 
and let all simmer slowly for 20 minutes. Beat the yolks of 2 
eggs, adding the juice of a lemon, and add to the broth, which must 
not boil after this, but be kept at boiling point ; add now the crabs, 
and stand on the back of the range for 5 minutes ; then stir in a tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley and a large one of butter cut in little bits, 
and serve very hot with thin brown bread and butter. 

Oyster Crab Pie. — Take 2 quarts of fresh crabs and some of the 
juice ; set on range to get warm, but not to cook. Rub 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour smoothly together in a 
saucepan over the fire. Have a pint of cream ready to add to the 
paste and pour in gradually while stirring to keep it smooth. Season 
with a little salt and pepper. While this is preparing have a baking- 
pan lined with puff paste in oven baking. Put crabs and sauce 
together in the crust. Then cover with another layer of pastry, wet 
the top with milk and bake twenty minutes, or until the crust is a 
beautiful brown. Serve with a cream and lemon sauce, or a little 
lemon juice in the hot cream. 

Oyster Crabs ou Toast. — These crabs make a delightful luncheon 
dish, stirred in a hot saucepan with a little butter and cream, and 
served on buttered toast. 

Deviled Oyster Crabs, in Shells. — Take some nicely-washed, 
medium-sized and deep oyster shells, setting them on a straight 
baking-sheet. Drain the oyster crabs, season them with salt, black 
pepper and red pepper and fill the large shells. Strew over them 
bread-crumbs and grated cheese, sprinkle with butter and brown in a 
quick oven, serving the shells as soon as done. No sauce is used. 

Scallops. 

Fried Scallops. — Pick over and wash quickly, drain between 
towels, season fine cracker crumbs with salt and pepper. Dip the 
scallops in crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in crumbs. Fry 
in smoking hot fat and serve at once. A more simple way, which I 
often use, is to roll them in Indian meal and fry in hot fat. 

Scallops in Shells. — Drain a pint of them and toss them, with a 
tablespoonful of butter, into a saucepan, letting them brown lightly 
for about ten minutes. Then take them up and chop them fine. 
Melt a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, add a small onion minced 



SHELL FISH. 101 

fine and brown it lightly. Then add a heaping teaspoonful of flour 
and stir in slowly a cupful of the liquid drained from the scallops. 
Season with a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a little 
white pepper. Mix with the chopped scallops 4 tablespoonfuls of 
bread-crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, and cook all together for 
three minutes. Then fill the shells, sprinkle fine bread-crumbs over 
the top, and dot with bits of butter, and set them in a hot oven to 
brown for ten minutes. Serve them on a platter with a garnish of 
green. One whole egg can be used in place of the yolks, but is not 
quite as nice. 

Scallops iu Batter. — Save the liquor that is in them, and put the 
scallops in a colander and pour boiling water on them to cook them 
through a little. Then take 1 pint of flour, 1 egg, a little salt and 
pepper and 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, and the liquor saved 
from the scallops and mix the batter. After it is all mixed dip the 
scallops in the batter and fry in hot lard. This recipe is for one pint 
of scallops. 

Terrapin or Water Turtle. 

Stewed Terrapin witli Cream. — One-half pint thick cream, 6 
eggs, half pound butter, quarter cupful sherry or madeira, quarter 
teaspoonful mace ; salt and cayenne to taste. Put terrapins alive into 
boiling water and boil 10 or 15 minutes, or until you can pull off the 
outer skin and toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water, 
add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil until the shells part easily 
and the flesh on the legs is tender. Take out, remove under shells 
until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the upper shells 
carefully, remove sandbag and intestines, the gall sacks, which are 
imbedded in one lobe of the liver. In removing gall sack do not 
break it, as it would spoil the terrapin. Break terrapin into small 
pieces. Now add liver, broken up, and all eggs found in terrapin, 
put into stew pan with the juice or liquor it has given out while being 
cut. Roll the butter in flour, add to terrapin and stand on moderate 
fire until heated. Boil the 6 eggs for 15 minutes, mash yolks to 
smooth paste into 2 tablespoonfuls of the wine. Then add this, the 
cream and seasoning to the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from 
fire, add wine and serve. It must never be boiled after adding the 
wine. Cooks do not use the intestines nowadays ; they are not con- 
sidered fit to eat. Lemon juice can be used instead of wine. 



102 SHELL FISH. 

Stewed Dijiinoiid Back. — Remove bottom shell, after cutting his 
head off and bleeding him ; trim all the meat from the top shell 
neatly and throw whole pieces into salted water. Cut up neatly and 
put on to cook in hot water, just enough to cover; cook till done. 
Almost 20 minutes before it is done put in about 2 dozen small new 
potatoes and 1 of shelot roots ; add half a lemon, 1 glass of sherry, 
the juice of 1 tomato and 2 ounces of butter. Thicken as cream; 
remove the lemon in 10 minutes. For a small party serve in shell. 

Baked Turtle, — Scrape the shell from which the cooked meat 
has been removed, and wash well in cold water. Mince the meat as 
fine as possible with a hash chopper. Add to it half an onion, the 
hard boiled yolks of 3 eggs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, salt 
and pepper to taste. Have ready some cracker crumbs rolled fine, 
moisten the mixture with some of the liquid the turtle has been 
boiled in. Knead into it the cracker crumbs and press whole into 
the turtle shell. Put in hot oven and bake quickly, garnishing with 
hard-boiled turtle's eggs. 

Turtle Soup. — Take 3 or 4 green onions, a bunch of seasoning 
herbs, cayenne pepper and salt, 1 quart of very strong veal broth, 

1 pound of butter, flour, lemon juice, Madeira wine and a turtle. 
Cut up the meat and let the bones and other parts intended for the 
soup stew 6 hours, the onions and seasoning being chopped very 
fine. Use cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Add the liquor to the 
veal broth ; put in the butter, with enough flour to thicken suffi- 
ciently ; stir it over the fire 10 minutes and add lemon juice and 
Madeira to taste. The coarse white parts will require cooking 2 
hours. The green fat should be cut into pieces 1^ inches square 
and simmered in the soup for an hour. Force-meat balls and eggs 
are served in the soup. Make these of the vealy part of the turtle, 
minced fine with half a beaten anchovy, a piece of celery boiled 
tender, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Mix them up well with 

2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs ; season with cayenne pepper, mace, 
salt and white pepper ; moisten with a little oyster liquor, a lump of 
butter and a well-beaten egg ; roll them into balls and fry in butter. 




" TJiis disli of meat is too good for any but 
anglers, or very honest men." — Walton. 

Dress fish as quickly as possible after they 
are taken from the water. Wash and rub the inside with salt. Do 
not soak in water long, as the flesh is apt to become flabby. Lard 
and butter in equal quantities is better for frying fish than butter 
alone. Frozen fish should be put in cold water to draw out the frost. 
Add a little vinegar to the water in which salt fish is soaked. Soak 
salt fish in sour milk to freshen them. Pour vinegar over fresh fish 
to make the scales come off easily. 

Fish can be improved in flavor by rubbing with vinegar or adding 
one-half cup of vinegar to the water in which it is boiled. Fish, when 
prepared for the table, should never be laid double, if it can be avoided, 
as the steam from the under layer makes the upper layer so soft as to 
break easily. They must be cooked until the flesh separates easily 
from the bones. By running a knife in a little way, say under the fins, 
so as not to spoil the appearance of the fish, this can be judged of 

All kinds of cooked fish can be served with salads. Lettuce is 
the best green salad to serve, but all cooked and cold vegetables go 
well with fish. Whatever the method of cooking, apply great heat 
at first to sear the outside and prevent the escape of the juices except 
for a soup or chowder. 

To scale a fish hold it by the tail under water (which is 
salted) in a deep pan, and with a small, sharp knife held slant- 
ing, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head. The scales 
will come off easier under water and will fall to the bottom of 
the pan instead of flying about. Wipe the fish on an old soft towel 
and lay it on a board or a large platler. Cut off the head and tail, 
and if it is to be broiled split it down the back. This is done by 
pa'^sing the knife one side of and close to the backbone, from the head 
to the tail, cutting carefully until the entrails are reached. Remove 

103 



104 FISH. 

them carefully and scrape the inside of the fish and all the blood from 
the backbone. If preferred, the backbone can be removed entirely. 
Wipe the fish inside and out with a cloth wrung out of salted water, 
lay it on a dish and keep it in a cool place until wanted. For baking 
or frying, the fish may be opened down the body. 

The only secret in boning is to hold the knife close to the bone, 
scraping away every particle of flesh. To remove the skin, loosen it 




Fish Scaler. 

with a knife around the head and pull quickly toward the tail. If the 
fingers are dipped in salt occasionally it will give them a firmer grip 
on the slipping fish. This will be done in the market if the purchaser 
so directs. In freshening salt fish lay it in the water skin-side up. 
Baking, boiling, frying, broiling and steaming are the standard 
methods of cooking fish. 

Broiled Fisli. — Broiling is assuredly the oldest method of cook- 
ing, and no new one surpasses it. The skin of small or thin fish 
serves to keep them in shape. Slices of halibut or salmon may be 
broiled whole, or the skin and bone removed and cut in fillets. Clean 
and split the fish. Rub a double broiler with suet, lay the fish, flesh 
eide down, on and set over the fire ; turn until both sides are brown. 
When done take up carefully on a heated dish, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, spread with butter and serve. 

Boiled Fish. — This is thought to be the most delicate of all, but on 
account of its slippery skin and gelatinous consistency, it is hard to 
boil it so that its appearance will gratify the eye. To attain the best 
results, several rules are to be remembered and observed. First, the 
fish must be weighed. Second, it must be carefully bound up in thin 
muslin ; coarse cheese-cloth is excellent for the purpose. Third, the 
kettle must be large enough to accommodate the fish easily, and the 
water must be well salted first, or the flakes will have a tendency to 
separate. Fourth, the water must be at boiling point, but not boiling 
when the fi'^h is put in, and should be in sufficient quantity to full)' 
cover it, but not in excess, or the flavor will be washed away. For 



FISH. 



105 




Fish Kettle. 



a large fish, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the water. Fifth, 

keep the water boihng, and allow 6 minutes to each pound, and if the 

fish is large, add 6 minutes to the computation ; for instance, make the 

36 minutes due a 6-pounder 42 minutes. Never stab a fish with a 

fork or skewer to find if it is 

done, but see that the water 

boils steadily and does not 

stop for an instant. If the 

water boils turbulently, the 

kettle must be moved to a 

part of the stove where it can 

have a less fierce heat, as too 

much agitation of the water 

will cause it to crumble. A 

fish boiler is best to use. Serve with drawn butter and hard-boiled 

eggs sliced. Garnish also with parsley and sliced lemons. Some 

like tomato catsup poured over the fish, without the eggs and lemons. 

Frying- Fish. — If the fish is large, cut into small pieces ; if it is 

small, split it in two pieces, and wipe dry on a clean tea towel. Season 

with pepper and salt and dip the pieces in corn meal, then fry a nice 

brown in boiling lard. Be sure to have a good fire, bright and hot 

and have the lard boiling. Those kinds which are liable to break 

must be dipped in beaten eggs, then into crumbs. The fat in which 

fish is fried, whether it be lard, dripping, oil, or butter, must be very 

hot. All fried fish should be decorated with fried or raw parsley. 

For frying the fat should be hot enough to put a crisp coating over 

the fish at once, hotter than for doughnuts or any dough which must 

have time to rise, but not so hot as for croquettes, since the fish would 

burn outside before it was cooked throughout. Drain on soft paper 

and serve with acid sauce. In the recipes for cooking certain fish, 

skinning them is insisted upon. When both sides are treated in this 

way, it is nearly 

impossible to keep ^^HBHi' 'M 

them in good shape, 
but it is only flat fish 
that are to be pre- 
pared in this way, 
and it is entirely un- Lipped Frying- Pan. 




106 FISH. 

necessary to remove the white skin from the under part. That will hold 
the flesh in place after the dark, coarse skin of the top part is pulled 
off, if they are carefully handled. When put in the pan of boiling 
fat, the bare or skinned side of the fish must be laid downward first, 
after being dipped in egg and bread or cracker crumbs. When 
turned up after a little trial by lifting with a broad knife-blade, it will 
show a golden-brown crispness that is very stimulating to even a 
jaded appetite. A large quantity of fat is usually necessary in frying 
fish. With the exception of very oily fish, such as mackerel or her- 
ring they require much less fat, and should be dipped in egg and 
bread crumbs. 

Baked Fisli. — Procure a fish of three or four pounds, season 
with 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Rub the 
seasoning well in and outside the fish ; place the fish with two sliced 
onions, on a large dish ; sprinkle over the juice of one large lemon ; 
cover and set aside for 1 hour. Then lay the fish in a baking pan 
with 4 thin slices of pork under it, and 3 slices of pork on top. Pour 
1 tablespoonful of melted butter over and bake 45 minutes. Serve in 
a hot dish garnished with lemon cut into quarters, and parsley. It 
can be baked without the onion or lemon, but these improve its flavor. 
If salt pork is not at hand, grease the pan thoroughly with lard and 
lay a sheet of nice brown paper, cut to the size of the pan, in the 
bottom. Grease the paper thoroughly and lay the fish upon it. 
Baked in this way, it can easily be taken from the pan without breaking 
it at all, and the trouble of cleaning the pan afterwards, which is not 
a little when the baking is done in the usual manner, is entirely avoided. 

Baked Fish, Stuffed. — Select a fish of medium size, wash well, 
wipe dry, sprinkle with salt. Mix 1 teacup of stale bread crumbs, a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, half teaspoonful of salt, quarter tea- 
spoonful of pepper. Stuff the fish with this mixture. Place a well- 
buttered tin in the bottom of a baking pan. Lay the fish upon it, 
dredge with flour, salt and pepper, add a cup of boiling water, place 
in a hot oven and bake 1 5 minutes for every pound of fish, basting with 
the gravy in the pan. When done slide carefully into a dish, garnish 
with slices of lemon and parsley. Or, the following stuflfing may be 
made : Dried and sifted bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt 
to taste, also a very little finely powdered sage, held together with the 
yolks of two eggs. Some add tomato sauce to the dressing, others 



FISH. 107 

cover the fish with a layer of tomatoes ; still another plan is to stew 
the tomatoes alone and serve the sauce with the fish after it is baked. 
Bake according to size of fish in a hot oven until browned. Wrap 
with string or sew up the fish to keep in the dressing. A thick slice 
of fish is often baked in milk or tomato sauce. The baked fish with 
its head left on, although the hollow eyes be well filled with parsley, is 
at best a ghastly sight. 

Dainty Baked Fish. — An especially dainty way to bake a fish is 
as follows : Remove the head and skin, insert a knife close to the 
backbone and cut away the flesh from side to side in turn, in a long 
strip or fillet, then scrape off any bits adhering to the bones. Fold 
over the narrow end of one strip on top, spread with stuffing, place 
the other fillet above, folding the thin end underneath to give a smooth 
surface on top, brush over with soft butter and put skewers through 
both layers to keep them from slipping. Bake as usual. Just before 
serving brush over with beaten Ggg, sprinkle with buttered crumbs 
and brown for a moment. Meantime the head and backbone should 
be covered with cold water and left to cook gently for a half hour or 
until they fall apart. Strain off the water and thicken for a sauce or 
save for a soup next day. 

Fillets of Fish. — Fillets are a little troublesome, but a delicious 
method of preparing fish. Sole is especially fitted to be served in 
this manner, but flounders (a cheap fish) furnish an excellent imita- 
tion of sole. The fillets are made from the layer of flesh on each 
side of the fish, and each one can be cut in two, thus making four to 
the fish. A sharp knife is the first necessity. Cut the skin of the 
fish around the head down to the flesh, and then cut down each side 
of the broad fin on the back of the fish from the head to the tail. 
Now begin at the head, loosening the skin with the knife, and pull it 
off firmly and slowly, using the knife whenever necessary to loosen 
the skin, which will usually come off smoothly. Both sides of the 
fish are now bare, and it is easy to remove the flesh. Flatten the fil- 
lets, after they are cut, by a blow of the potato- masher, and then egg 
and crumb each one, dropping them into boiling fat, fr}'ing them 
golden brown, and draining on brown paper a moment before serv- 
ing. They may be served either with cream sauce, which contains 
a teaspoonful of minced parsley, or with tomato sauce. Another 
method is to pour cream sauce over the fillets and bake them in the 



108 FISH. 

oven for 15 minutes, taking care that the sauce does not bake away 
or burn. 

Again, the fillets may be cut in long narrow strips, and each 
one rolled around and fastened in place with wooden toothpicks. 
Bake in a quick oven for five or seven minutes. Serve with 
tomato, cream, or some other kind of sauce. To put the fillets in a 
dish and cover with a sliced onion, three or four sprigs of parsley and 
the juice of one lemon, and let stand for half an hour, is an improve- 
ment. Closely cover the dish. When ready to serve wipe dry 
with a soft, clean towel, dip lightly in flour, then in beaten egg and 
next in bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat to a delicate brown ; serve on 
a folded napkin laid on a hot platter. Worcestershire sauce is also 
excellent to serve with fillets. Tarragon and Tartar sauce also. 

Frying- Fish. — Fish for frying, after being cleaned and washed, 
should be rolled in a cloth to absorb the moisture. Cut in neat 
pieces, dip in beaten eggs and roll in flour or corn-meal. For every 
5 or 6 pounds of fish fry a few slices of salt pork to the gravy thus 
obtained ; if necessary add lard or butter. Fresh fat may be used, 
but that from the pork gives a better flavor. Brown the fish quickly, 
then cover the pan and set back to steam and cook through. 

Plain Gravy. — Remove the fish, rub 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of flour 
smooth in a little water and stir into the fat the fish was fried in. 
Add butter, pepper and salt. If desired, flavor with catsup or lemon 
juice. Pour the gravy around the fish, or serve separately. 

Boiled Red Snapper. — This fish is common in the Gulf of 
Mexico, and is one of the most delicious for table use that the waters 
of the sea afford. To boil, take a medium-sized fish, cleanse and 
wash in cold water, tie tightly in a clean cloth, cover well with hot 
water, to which, for a fish of from 5 to 8 pounds, add one-half cup of 
vinegar and a handful of salt; boil for 45 minutes, or until the 
flesh comes readily from the bones. Serve hot with sauce as follows : 
1 pint of water thickened with flour; let boil until clear; add salt to 
season, a little pepper, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 hard-boiled 
eggs sliced. 

Baked Red Snapper. — Cleanse the fish, and in removing the 
entrails make no longer cut than is necessary. Stuff the fish with 
dressing as follows : Take sufficient stale bread to fill the cavity in 
the head and body, soften with cold water ; take 2 tablespoonfuls of 



FISH. 109 

lard in a saucepan, mince a medium-sized onion and cook brown in 
the lard; add to the softened bread. Mix well and season with 
pepper, salt and sweet herbs. Put enough water in the pan to pre- 
vent scorching and dredge the fish slightly with flour. Serve hot. 
This dressing will answer for other fish. 

Baked Kcd Suapper a la Creole. — For a fish of 3 or 4 pounds 
prepare this stuffing : 1 can of tomatoes, 6 onions chopped fine, 1 cup 
of dry bread-crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, red 
and black pepper and salt, plenty of butter. Stuff your fish with this 
dressing and sew up. Lay it flat in the pan and cover top with the 
remaining stuffing. Spread butter on this to make it brown nicely. 
Bake one hour. 

Mackerel. 

Boiled Fresh Mackerel. — Fresh mackerel are soaked in salted 
water with a little vinegar added ; with this exception they can be 
served in the same way as the salt mackerel. Broiled fresh mackerel 
is very nice with the same cream or egg sauce. 

Broiled Spanisli Mackerel. — Split the fish down the back bone, 
wash in cold water, dry with a clean dry cloth, dust with salt and 
lay in a buttered wire broiler. Cook the flesh side first. Then turn, 
make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful 
lemon juice, 1 small teaspoonful salt, one quarter teaspoonful of 
pepper. Dish up the fish and turn this sauce over it hot. Maitre de 
Hotel butter is also nice with this. 

Broiled Salt Mackerel. — Choose a medium-sized mackerel, with 
flesh thick and white. To freshen suspend by a string or stick 
through the gills in a jar or bucket of water. Take out of the water 
10 or 15 minutes before broiling; dry with a clean towel. Broil on 
a wire broiler, putting on a little butter during the process. Lay on 
a warm plate and set in the oven for a few minutes before serving. 
Maitre de Hotel butter is nice to pour over the fish before serving. 

Baked Mackerel, Stuffed. — Select a nice fat mackerel, wash, and 
soak over night. As this is best for lunch, change the water in the 
morning and keep it in a cold place. One hour before lunch time, 
take it from the water and clean all the black from the skin. Chop 
fine 2 pieces of celery, sufficient parsley to make 2 tablespoonfuls ; 
mix this with half a cup of crumbs. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 
a dash of cayenne. Fill this in the thin part of the mackerel, fold it 



110 FISH. 

together, and place it in a baking pan. Dust with pepper, and put in 
the pan about half a cup of water. Bake in a quick oven 30 minutes. 
Baste at least twice. Dish and cover with tomato-sauce. 

Baked Salt 3Iackei-el. — Freshen as before, drain, pour boiling 
water over the fish, let stand a few moments, then turn off, and put 
the fish in a long tin, well buttered. Put over it half a cup of sweet 
cream (rich milk with a little butter will do), pepper and put in a hot 
oven; let it brown slightly and serve, adding more cream if more 
gravy is needed. 

Spiced Mackerel. — Take 6 medium-sized mackerel, clean and cut 
off heads and tails. Cut across and make 2 parts of each. Then 
take half a cup of salt, one-third tablespoon of ground cloves, half a 
tablespoon of allspice, and mix them well together. Rub the mix- 
ture into the fish, and pack them in a stone jar or bean pot, and cover 
with pure vinegar. Bake 6 hours in a slow oven. It will keep a year. 

Halibut. 

Boiled Halibut. — Wash the fish in cold water, wipe and rub with 
salt. Wrap in a cloth, put in a fish-kettle or lay on a large plate and 
put in the bottom of a saucepan. Cover with boiling water, to which 
add a tablespoonful of salt; let simmer gently 10 minutes to every 
pound of fish. When done, take up, drain, remove the cloth, turn 
the fish out carefully on a dish, garnish with parsley. Serve with 
sauce HoUandaise. 

Baked Halibut. — Take a piece of halibut weighing 5 or 6 pounds, 
or less, and soak in salt and water for 2 hours ; wipe dry and score 
the outer skin ; set in baking pan in a tolerably hot oven and bake 
for an hour, basting often with butter and water heated together. 
When a fork will penetrate it easily it is done. It should be of a fine 
brown color. Take the gravy in the dripping pan, add a little boiling 
water, stir in a teaspoonful of walnut catsup, the juice of a lemon, 
and thicken with browned flour ; boil up once and put into a sauce boat. 
Many cooks sprinkle chopped onion in the bottom of the baking pan 
before putting in the fish. 

Baked Halibut Steak. — Cut the fish into nice slices, season with 
white pepper and a very little salt, and place them in a well-buttered 
baking dish. Pour over them a wine-glass of strained lemon juice, 
and let it cook in the oven, covered with a buttered paper, for 15 to 



FISH. Ill 

25 minutes, according to thickness. For the sauce, stir over the fire 
1 ounce of butter, with 1 ounce of sifted flour, till well blended, but 
not browned, then pour to it a gill of boiling water, white pepper and 
salt to taste, and let all cook together for 8 or 10 minutes, before 
adding to it the strained liquor from the baked fish. Boil all for 
about a minute, then strain again and add a small lump of butter ofif 
the stove. When this has melted, dish the steaks neatly from the 
sauce around them and serve. 

Halibut Steak, Stuffed. — Get two shapely steaks, wash and 
thoroughly dry them with a towel. Make a stuffing from a cupful of 
crumbs, tablespoonful of butter, tablespoonful of onion juice, or same 
amount of minced onion, tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and dash 
of cayenne, quarter teaspoonful of black pepper, just a grating of nut- 
meg, and teaspoonful of salt. Place 1 steak on the baking pan, lay 
carefully over it the stuffing, and place above it the other steak. Put 
small pieces of butter over the top and dust lightly with salt and pep- 
per. Bake until a golden brown, about 20 or 30 minutes. Serve on 
a hot platter, with garnish of lemons sliced and fresh red cherries. 

Halibut Steak, Fried. — Slice thick and lay in cold salt water for 
an hour. Dry and dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust and fry in 
beef drippings. The following lemon sauce is sometimes served with 
the fish : 

Lemon Sancc. — Rub a tablespoonful of butter to a cream, adding 
the juice of a lemon, a little chopped parsley, salt and little pepper; 
set in the oven until the butter is melted. 

Halibut Steak, Cold. — A delicious cold dish offish is a " steak" 
— or slice across the body of the fish — of halibut. Cook this till 
perfectly tender, hut not to break, in a little butter ; remove it on a 
dish, and squeeze the juice of half a fresh lemon over it. Stew 2 or 
3 large fresh tomatoes in a little water, crush them through a colan- 
der, season the puree obtained with plenty of salt and cayenne pepper, 
pour it around (but not upon) the fish ; cut some lemon rind in fine 
shreds, place an edging of these around the edge of the fish, and put 
a fringe of green parsley round the edge of the dish. 

Fillets of Halibut. — Three pounds of halibut, half cup of butter, 

1 lemon, 3 hard-boiled eggs. Skin the fish, bone and cut in slices 
half an inch thick. Cut these in strips about 3 inches long and 

2 inches wide. Sprinkle the strips with lemon juice, season with salt 



112 FISH. 

and pepper, cover closely and set away for an hour. Then melt the 
butter and dip each strip in it. Roll them up, pin each one together 
with a wooden toothpick, dip in butter once more and arrange them 
in a baking pan. Dredge with flour thickly, and bake in a hot oven 
for 20 minutes. Take the hard-boiled eggs, rub the yolks of the 
eggs, and cut the white into rings. Spread the little fillets of fish 
upon a hot dish. Remove the toothpicks, turn a white sauce around, 
not over them. Sprinkle the grated yolks over the fish and garnish 
with the white rings. Any large fish can be served this way. The eggs 
can be omitted if desired. For a white, or cream sauce, see " Sauces." 

Shad. 

Boned Sbacl. — To bone a shad hold the knife close to the back 
bone and loosen the flesh from it on both sides ; next lay the fish 
open and take out the back bone. This exposes the other large bones, 
when they can be easily removed. Many of the small bones are then 
visible, and the others can be felt and picked out by the fingers. After 
all the bones are out remove the skin and cut the fish into pieces, 
when it is ready for frying or baking, after being seasoned with salt 
and pepper and dipped in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. A 
boned shad cannot be broiled. Some cooks allow the fish to stand 
half an hour after seasoning it with salt and pepper, sprinkling it with 
the juice of one lemon, and cover with sliced onion. Dry in a soft cloth 
and fry in hot lard. Drain on blotting or soft brown paper. 

Shad Roe. — Boil the shad roe in boiling salted water for 10 
minutes, slicing in 1 small onion, and adding a bouquet of herbs. It 
can then be cooked in several ways. 

1st. Escaloped. — Drop it in cold water after boiling, then cut in 
slices 1 inch thick. Wipe dry and season with salt and pepper. Then 
put a heaping tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and on the fire. 
When so hot that it begins to turn brown, add a level tablespoonful of 
flour and stir. Now draw the pan back to a cooler part of the stove 
and gradually add half a pint of white stock-veal or chicken. Season 
this with a little salt, a grain of cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice. Put the roe in a small escalop dish and pour the sauce 
over it. Sprinkle a cupful of grated bread-crumbs over the top and 
strew these with bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 min- 
utes, and serve in the dish in which it is baked. 



FISH. 113 

2d. Baked. — Drop the roe into boiling water, salted, and let cook 
gently 20 minutes. Remove and drain. Butter a tin plate and lay 
the drained roe upon it. Dredge with salt and pepper and spread 
with soft butter : dredge thickly with flour. Bake a half hour, basting 
frequently with a thin mixture of flour, water, butter, and pepper and 
salt. 

3d. Shad Roe with Green Peas. — Cook in salted water 10 minutes, 
then place in a deep frying pan containing a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, and let cook 10 minutes, turning once. Cook a pint of young 
green peas until tender, with one teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter tea- 
spoonful of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of butter added. Then put 
in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and let cook 2 minutes longer. Cut the 
roe in 6 pieces ; put in the centre of a heated dish, and turn the peas 
over it. Lay the fillets of fish in a circle around, with the edge of 
one piece overlapping the other. 

4th. Boil and slice the roe as in recipe for escaloped roe ; take 
out, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry like fish. 

5th. Broiled Shad Roe. — Wash the roe, throw them in boiling 
salted water; allow them to stand for 10 minutes without boiling. 
Drain carefully, dry, place them on a greased broiler and then over a 
quick fire for 5 minutes, turning once. Serve with melted butter and 
chopped parsley. 

Planked Shad. — Take a long narrow baking pan and put it on 
the stove with a piece of beef suet to fry out slowly. Split a roe 
shad as for broiling, dry it well inside and out with a clean white 
cloth, rub it with quite a little salt, and after rubbing the pan with the 
melting suet lay the fish, skin up, in the bottom and set it in a hot 
oven. Let it brown and sizzle till it is pufled in tiny blisters all over 
the top, and then you can be pretty sure it is done. Slide it out on 
a hot platter and serve garnished with lemon and parsley. Cooked 
in this way, all the rich juices of the fish are preserved, and there is 
not so much odor through the house. 

Planked Shad. — II. To plank shad properly select a smooth, 
thick plank a little longer than the fish to be cooked. It must be of 
hard wood like oak or hickory. Bore holes in plank and have wooden 
pegs to fit them. Shad can only be cooked in this fashion where an 
open fire is accessible. Spread the fish on the board and fasten it 
down by means of the pegs. Rest the end of the plank in a shallow 
8 



114 FISH. 

dripping-pan ; put a little water and salt in pan at first, and now place 
the whole before a clear fire. Baste the fish often with the water in 
the pan, and add plenty of butter, so that it will be richly seasoned. 
When nearly done, add a sauce made of melted butter, to which is 
added walnut or tomato catsup. Many families have handsome planks, 
so that the shad may be served on them, without risking its removal 
to a platter. But when this is impossible, slip the fish from the plank 
to a hot platter, and pour over it a sauce of melted butter and walnut 
catsup, or any good fish sauce. Serve with sharp and spicy pickles. 

Baked aud Stiified Shad. — Take a fresh shad that weighs about 
2 pounds, clean thoroughly, wash and rub with salt ; make a stuffing 
by chopping about a quarter pound of fat salt pork and wheat bread 
crumbs, 1 pint ; season with pepper and salt if needed, and if not 
moist enough, use a little new milk ; cut gashes in the fish from head 
to tail, about \}4, inches apart; stuff the fish and wind a twine around 
it from end to end ; cut very thin strips of fat salt pork, put in the 
gashes, sprinkle with flour, put a little water in the pan ; bake 1 hour ; 
after taking the fish from the baking pan you can make a gravy, if 
you like, with a spoonful of flour and water and a little butter. In- 
stead of milk to moisten the bread crumbs in the dressing, a beaten 
egg can be used. 

Broiled Sliad. — Rub the fish with olive oil, as it gives a delicious 
flavor, place on a buttered broiler a nicely wiped shad, and broil over 
a moderate fire. Garnish with slices of lemon. Butter can be used 
to rub the fish instead of oil. 

Salmon. 

Salmon is at its best from the 1st of April until the end of July. 
The freshness of the fish can be distinguished by the brilliancy of the 
skin and bloody gills and eyes. If the skin and eyes are dull, the 
fish is not fresh. Highly colored salmon is the best; whitish fish 
denotes inferior quality. 

Boiled Salmon. — Two tablespoonfuls of salt and a teacupful of 
vinegar to 1 gallon of water, are the proper proportions for season- 
ing and cooking a 10-pound salmon. The vinegar added to the water 
will entirely prevent the salmon from breaking and will impart a nice 
flavor. Some cooks throw in a bay leaf and a sliced onion. Families 
purchasing a fresh salmon should parboil the portion not required 



FISH. 115 

for the day's consumption and lay it aside in the liquor. Boil it in 
this liquor when wanted. By this means the curd will be set and the 
fish will be equally good as at first. Salmon is better put into warm 
water instead of cold in order to preserve its color and set the curd. 
It should be thoroughly well dressed to be wholesome. Scale it, 
empty and wash it with the greatest care, do not leave any blood in 
the inside that you can remove, boil the salt rapidly in the fish kettle 
for a minute or two, taking off the scum as it rises, put in the salmon, 
first trussing it in the shape of the letter S, and let it boil gently till 
it is thoroughly done. Take it from the water on the fish plate, let 
it drain, put it on a hot folded fish napkin, and garnish with slices of 
lemon. Sauce, shrimp or lobster. Send up dressed cucumber with 
salmon. The custom of serving up rich sauces is unknown in coun- 
tries where salmon most abound. A little lemon juice, or white wine 
vinegar added to melted butter, being quite sufficient. 

Baked Salmon. — Select a thick piece of salmon and put it in the 
baking dish. Add half a cup of water and a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice. Cover the pan with another the same size, and bake in the 
oven for half an hour. Place the salmon on a hot platter. Rub a 
heaping tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour together to a cream. 
Add gradually 1 cup or half a pint of boiling milk. Stir over the 
fire until it thickens. Take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of 
minced parsley, the crumbled yolk of 2 hard-boiled eggs, a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of 
cayenne. Serve the salmon garnished with potato balls and the sauce 
in a boat. The canned salmon containing whole steaks weighing a 
pound each may be similarly served. It will require only making 
very hot in the oven when the sauce is to be made as above. 

Baked Salmon Trout. — This deliciously flavored game-fish is 
baked as other fish, but should be accompanied with cream gravy. 
Bake it slowly, baste often with butter and water. When done have 
ready in a saucepan, diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water in 
which has been stirred carefully 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
a scant tablespoonful of flour, and a little chopped parsley. Season 
with pepper and salt. Heat this in a vessel set within another of 
boiling water. Add the gravy from the dripping-pan, boil up once 
to thicken, and when the trout is laid on a hot dish pour this sauce 
around it, or serve in a separate dish. 



116 FISH. 

Fresh Salmon, Fried. — Cut the slices three-quarter inch thick, 
roll in flour or dip fiist in beaten egg and then in bread-crumbs. Fry 
a ligiit-brown on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. This 
method answers for frying all fish. Fry in a mixture of butter and 
lard. Some cooks roll in corn meal instead of flour. 

Pickled Salmon. — Take a fresh salmon, clean, cut in large pieces 
and boil in salted water. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth and set in a cold 
place till next day. Then make the pickle which must be in propor- 
tion to amount of fish. To 1 quart of the water in which the salmon 
was boiled, allow 2 quarts of the best vinegar, 1 ounce of whole 
black peppers, 1 nutmeg broken to bits and 12 blades of mace. Boil 
all these together (cover the kettle to prevent loss of flavor). When 
the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold pour it over the salmon. 
Cover closely, put in a dry, cool place, and it will keep many months. 
It is a delicious dish. A tablespoonful of sweet oil poured over the 
top of the vinegar will make it keep longer. 

Broiled Salmon. — Cut it in slices, put in a buttered double 
broiler. Broil quickly, turning first one side and then the other. 
When dished, rub butter over it. 

Salmon Salmi. — Take canned or cold boiled salmon, flake it and 
add to it an equal amount of shredded lettuce, or the heart of a white 
cabbage, mix and pour over it the following dressing : 1 egg (beaten), 
2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful 
salt, dash of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls salad-oil or melted butter. If 
preferred, some of the cooked salad sauces may be used. 

St. Croix Salmon. — Remove the oil, bones and skin, and drain 
carefully, and break into flakes. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
hot frying-pan ; when it is melted add the fish ; sprinkle with pepper 
and salt. It may be allowed to brown, or merely heated through 
Turn it out on a hot dish, garnish with parsley or water-cress, and 
serve. 

Salmon on Toast. — Mince fine the contents of 1 can of salmon, 
season with salt, pepper, and 5 tablespoonfuls of rich milk, heat and 
pour over buttered toast. 

Salmon Pie. — Put in baking-dish one can salmon, season with 
salt and pepper, cover with mashed potatoes and bake till brown. 

Salmon Pie. — II. Make a crust like a chicken-pie; remove the skin 
and bones from a can of salmon ; put a layer of salmon, then one of 




THE HOUSEWIFE 




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FISH. 117 

rolled cracker; sprinkle with salt, pepper and a few bits of butter; 
repeat until salmon is used. Use juice and a little water for moisture; 
cover with the crust. Serve with green peas and mashed potatoes, 
and the result is a very good dinner. 

Canned Salmon, Plain. — Arrange the fish in as large pieces as 
possible, picking out the bones. Garnish with lemon and parsley, 
and serve vinegar with it. 

Deviled Salmon. — Arrange the fish in as neat flakes as possible. 
Arrange lettuce leaves around the plate, and pour the following 
dressing over the fish. Dressing. — Yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 
tablespoonful of salad-oil, or melted butter. Rub with the eggs to a 
smooth paste ; add 2 teaspoonfuls each of sugar and mustard, salt 
and cayenne to taste ; add a little vinegar, and mix all thoroughly. 

Cod-Pish. 

Baked stuffed Cod-Fish. — Wash and wipe dry a 5-pound cod- 
fish, cut open and fill with dressing as for turkey; stew it up; make 
incisions across the fish and put small pieces of butter in; baste with 
salt and flour; cut up small pieces of fat pork and lay in the pan 
beside the fish ; put water in the pan and bake with a moderate fire 
2^ hours; do not turn the fish; when done remove it from the 
pan ; make gravy with water left in the pan ; add flour and a piece 
of butter and pour it over the fish ; serve with mashed potatoes, 
tomatoes and celery. 

Boiled Cod-Fish. — Take a small cod-fish. Cover the fish with 
3 quarts of cold water in which are placed a handful of salt, half a 
wineglass of vinegar, one small carrot cut in slices, one onion also cut 
fine, three bay leaves, three sprigs of thyme and a bunch of parsley 
roots. Let the cod-fish come to the boiling point and simmer slowly, 
bubbles arising on the edge of the kettle, for 30 minutes. Then 
lift it out, pull off" the skin, and surround it with new boiled potatoes 
cut in quarters and tossed five minutes in a tablespoonful of butter, a 
half teaspoonful of salt and a little white pepper for every six pota- 
toes. Add a few sprays of parsley over the fish. 

Boiled Cod-Fisli. — II. Sew up the piece of fish in thin cloth, 
fitted to shape, boil in salted water (boiling from the first), allow 
about 15 minutes to the pound. Carefully unwrap and pour over it 
cream or egg sauce. 



118 FISH. 

Cod a la Flamande. — Have the steaks cut two inches thick ; 
grease the baking-pan and sprinkle the bottom with chopped onions, 
parsley, bits of butter and a bay loaf; lay the steaks on this, brush 
over the top with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle with chopped onion 
and parsley and pour 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice to each steak. 
Bake 30 minutes and serve with bechamel sauce. 

Cod's Roe. — Cod's roe boiled and served with caper sauce is 
very palatable. Prick the roe and boil in slightly salted water; drain, 
dish on a folded napkin, and send to the table with the accompani- 
ment of caper or parsley sauce. Cut in slices one-half inch thick. 

Cod's Roe Pudding-. — Boil 8 potatoes, mash them thoroughly 
with cream, salt and a little butter. Boil 1 pound of cod roe for 20 
minutes ; take the skin off, mix well with the potatoes, and add 4 
eggs, 2 ounces of butter, pepper and salt. Bake for 15 minutes, cover 
the top of the dish with white of egg, and bake until brown. Serve 
with oyster sauce, or the oysters may be cut up and mixed with the 
other ingredients. 

Salt Cod-Fish. 

Broiled Salt Cod. — Soak nice white strips of the fish for several 
hours in cold water; dry them with a cloth, and lay them over clear 
hot coals on a broiler that has been rubbed with suet. Brown the 
fish nicely on both sides, remove to a hot platter and lay upon each 
piece a little fresh butter. A fringe of fried potatoes is a good ac- 
companiment. Codfish is good boiled, but it should be well soaked 
and be allowed to simmer for two or three hours. It may be served 
with drawn butter; hard-boiled eggs sliced on it make a fine addition. 

Cod-Fisli Stew. — A teacupful of flaked fish, soaked 10 minutes in 
cold water and squeezed dry. Sinmier in a pint of water for 5 minutes. 
Add, first, a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, rubbed together; 
next, two eggs and two tablespoonfuls cream after taking from the 
fire. Pepper to taste. 

Creamed Cod in a Potato Case. — Boil and mash 6 good-sized 
potatoes. Add 1 beaten egg, a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, 
a saltspoonful of pepper. Then beat the potatoes till very light. 
Pick and scald 1 pound of boneless salt cod, and drain and scald 
again. Shred and press the fish till dry. Put 1 large tablespoon- 
ful of butter in a pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 pint 
of milk. Stir till it boils and thickens. Add a couple of pinches of 



FISH. 119 

pepper. Grease a small pudding mould, and line the bottom and 
sides with the potato. Add the fish to the cream sauce, and fill in 
the centre of the mould with it. Then cover over with a thick layer 
of the potato, and bake till a nice brown. When done, turn it out 
and serve. 

Creamed Cod-Fish. — Soak, boil and pick the fish same as for fish- 
balls. Pour boiling water over it and place on range, where it will 
just simmer. Put 1 pint (or more) cream or rich milk in double 
boiler, come to a scald; thicken like cream toast; cook thoroughly 
and strain on to the drained salt fish ; season and serve. If milk is used 
2 hard-boiled eggs cut up and added are nice. Add a little butter 
with milk. Be sure the fish is tender and not too salt before adding to 
milk. Serve with hot creamed or baked potatoes. Creamed codfish 
can also be made with rich milk and no thickening. Put in a lump 
of butter. It is very nice poured over slices of toast laid on a large 
platter. 

Cod-Fisli aud Eg-gs. — Stir together in a saucepan over the fire, 
until thoroughly mixed, 1 tablespoonful each of butter and flour. 
Add half a cupful of water and 1 cupful of shredded cod-fish that has 
been previously freshened. Let simmer 5 minutes, stir in 2 eggs, 
cook gently until the eggs are sufificiently done, then serve. Add a 
little pepper. Pour into a deep platter, and serve with a border of 
new potatoes (either steamed or boiled). When these are out of 
season, serve in a border of mashed potatoes, beaten until creamy. 

Salt Fisli Chowder. — Pick in small bits salt fish enough to fill a 
saucer ; then fill the saucer with cold water and let it stand while pre- 
paring the chowder; fry 4 or 5 slices of salt pork; be careful not to 
burn it; when done take out; pare and cut fine 2 good-sized onions; 
pare and slice 6 potatoes ; put them in the kettle, drain the water off 
the fish, and put in on top of the potatoes; shake in a little pepper; 
cover with water ; while it is boiling make a thickening of 2 table- 
spoonfuls of flour and cold water enough to mix thin ; when the 
potatoes are soft add the thickening ; put the kettle on top of the 
stove ; let it boil 2 or 3 minutes ; then add 1 or 2 cups of milk ; stir 
it very carefully and taste; if too fresh, add a little salt; if not rich 
enough, add a piece of butter; if any one likes crackers in the 
chowder, before dishing up take common crackers, split them and dip 
in cold water quick; lay on top the chowder 1 minute. 



120 FISH. 

01d-Fasliione«l Fish-balls. — One pint of salt fish after being 
cooked and picked fine, 1 quart of mashed potato mixed with the fish 
while warm ; mix with this 3 or 4 slices of salt pork, cut very fine 
and fried brown in the pan. Mix this with the fish-balls, add a few 
spoonfuls of milk, beat thoroughly ; form in balls. Add a little lard 
to the fat in the pan, roll the balls in flour and fry brown on both sides. 

Cocl-Fisli Balls aud Bacon. — Make after above rule. Fry thin 
slices of bacon. After this is done fry the codfish-balls in the bacon- 
fat to a delicate brown. Serve all on one platter, arranging the bacon 
on the outer edge. 

Fish Puffs. — One cup cooked codfish (any cold fish will do), 2 
cups mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful butter, dash of red pepper, 
yolks of 2 eggs. Stir all thoroughly together ; then add well-beaten 
whites of the eggs, whip in very lightly, bake 20 minutes in hot 
oven ; serve at once. 

Breaded Fish. — Take a half-pint of dried bread crumbs, 1 ^ tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, a sixth of a teaspoonful of pepper, an egg, 2 pounds of 
any kind offish, fat for frying. Have the fish free from skin and bones, 
and cut it into pieces. Season it with the salt and pepper. Beat the egg 
in a soup plate and dip the fish in it, one piece at a time, getting every 
part covered with the egg ; then roll in the crumbs and lay on a plate. 
Have enough fat in the frying kettle to float the fish. When it be- 
comes so hot that blue smoke rises from the center, put in the fish 
and cook for 5 minutes. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot. 
Tartar sauce is particularly good to serve with breaded fish. 

Planked White Fish. — Place fish with the skin side down on a 
hardwood plank, brush over with butter and broil. Cook slowly, but 
do not turn. When done slice tomatoes on the board all around the 
edge of the fish, garnish with parsley and serve on a platter which 
will hold the board nicely. The smoke from the board gives the fish 
a delicious flavor. 

Baked White Fish. — After dressing, split the fish down the back 
and remove the backbone. Wipe the fish and dip in beaten egg. 
This may be applied with a feather. Roll in flour and then in egg 
again. Lay it in a baking pan that has been previously heated, add 
dripping or butter, and bake carefully in a moderate oven for 20 
minutes. Baste often. If the fish is properly cooked, not scorched, 
it will be of a rich yellow-brown. Serve with hot fish-sauce. 



FISH. 121 

Salt Wliite Fish. — Place in plenty of cold water over night, or 
still better, in a pan of sour milk. Scald slightly when ready for cook- 
ing, lay on a well-buttered plate with bits of butter over the fish, and 
put it into the oven till the butter melts, after which it is ready for use. 

Fish Croquettes with Cream Sauce. — One half-pint of milk; 3 
teaspoonfuls butter ; 3 even tablespoonfuls flour ; 1 egg yolk ; 1 table- 
spoonful chopped parsley ; one-fourth of a grated nutmeg ; 2 cups cold 
boiled fish ; seasoning. Put the milk on to boil. Rub together the 
butter and flour, then stir them into the boiling milk, stir until a thick 
paste is formed, add the yolk of egg and parsley. Mix and add the 
boiled fish ; mix again and add a palatable seasoning of salt and cay- 
enne, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cutlets or cro- 
quettes. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in 
very hot butter. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot with 
cream sauce. 

Fish Hash. — One pint salt fish shredded fine, 2 bowls potatoes 
pared and cut small, place in stew-pan, cover with water, boil 25 
minutes, drain off" water, place on stove 3 minutes to steam, mash per- 
fectly smooth ; add 1 raw onion chopped very fine, 1 cup cream, 1 egg 
well beaten, then beat with spoon 5 minutes ; have hot in frying pan 
the fat of four slices salt pork, into which put the hash and cook until 
the edges look brown about 10 minutes, avoid burning, turn carefully 
on hot platter bottom side up, and serve hot. 

Fish Stew. — Three to 4 pounds of codfish, cut crosswise (not 
split in back) in 2 to 2^-inch pieces, pare 4 or 6 potatoes, according 
to size, slice them half-inch thick ; onion, as much as wanted, slice 
also (we use 2 if large) ; a deep pan, 1 }4 cups water ; put your potatoes 
in first, then your fish, then onion, 1 tablespoon salt, a little black 
pepper, 2 ounces of butter. When the fish is nearly done mix 1 table- 
spoon of flour in a little cold water and add. Take care it does not 
burn. 

Fish Curry. — Chop an onion very small, bruise 12 cloves in a 
mortar and fry these in 2 ounces of butter. Add 1 tablespoonful of 
curry powder, stir and then put in any cold fish you may happen to 
have, nicely flaked. Let it get rather dry, and then pour in half a cup 
of canned tomato and a little salt ; mix to a paste. Make a puff" paste 
and line the patty pans with it, and then pour in the curry mixture; 
cover each patty with the paste and bake a golden brown. 



122 FISH. 

Baked Blue Fish. — Scale, cleanse and fill with dressing as for 
Baked Jisli^ stuffed. The common stuffing is dried and sifted bread 
crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

Bass, Pike and Pickerel. — These fish can be treated in the same 
fashion. 

Broiled Blue Fish. — Have the dealer of whom you buy the fish 
clean it and split it, removing the back bone entirely, wipe it nicely, 
grease your double wire broiler well with salt pork, put the thick part 
of fish next to the middle of broiler, flesh side down, and cook till a 
nice brown, then turn and just crisp the skin, as it burns easilw 
Have ready a platter that will not injure to put in a hot oven, loosen 
the fish carefully from broiler and slip it off on to platter, skin-side 
down; salt and butter it well, and place in hot oven for 5 minutes, 
then leave door open till ready to serve, when slip off on to hot platter 
for table. 

Creamed Pike. — Boil a 3-pound fish, pike is best, but any fish will 
do ; remove the skin and bones, flake it until finely minced, add juice 
of 1 onion, 1 saltspoon pepper, 1^ saltspoons of salt, 1 tablespoon 
butter, 1^ cups of milk, 1 tablespoon flour. Put in individual 
dishes and sprinkle top with bread crumbs which have been stirred 
in a well-heated pan with butter. Put in oven until light-brown on 
top. Serve hot. 

Breaded Bass. — Clean the bass well and soak in salted water. 
Beat 2 c^^?- with a spoonful of cream ; dip the fish in this and then 
into crackers rolled fine. Fry a few slices of salt pork, and, removing 
them, fry the fish in the same dish. Unless these are very large, they 
are not split, but are fried on each side until brown. Serve with 
parsley and slices of lemon upon it. 

Sheepshead. — Choose a small one ; the larger fish are dark in 
color and apt to be dry and tasteless. Scale, pare and cleanse it well ; 
truss the head to the body and set to boil in salted water, to which 
must be added one-half cupful of vinegar. At the end of 40 minutes 
slide it on to a folded napkin, and serve. 

Flaked Fish. — Take 1 pint of cold cooked fish, flake it. Make 
the following sauce: Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan, rub 
it to a cream with a tablespoonful of flour. Pour in slowly one-halt 
cup of boiling water, stirring all the time. Add 1 teaspoonful of 
mixed mustard, and 1 of anchovy or pepper-sauce, or a dash of cay- 



FISH. 123 

enne pepper. Then stir in 1 cupful of rich rnilk. Add the flaked 
fish, heat well, and serve. A nice breakfast or lunch dish. 

Fi'iecl Trout. — Clean, wash and dry the fish, roll lightly in flour 
and fry in butter or clarified dripping. Let the fat be hot. Fry 
quickly to a delicate brown, and take up the trout the instant they are 
done. Lay for a moment upon a hot-folded napkin to absorb what- 
ever grease may cling to their speckled sides. Then range them side 
by side on a heated dish, garnish and send to the table. Use no sea- 
soning except salt, and that only when the fish are fried in lard or 
unsalted dripping. 

Fish Souffle. — Take fish left from breakfast, bone it thoroughly; 
put with an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, add a half-cup of milk 
gradually; then season with a small saltspoonful of salt and one-third 
saltspoonful of pepper; stir in 1 beaten egg. Put in a buttered dish 
and set in oven until it becomes very hot ; then beat the white of an- 
other egg very stiff and stir into the yolk, beaten with salt and pep- 
per. Heap over the fish and brown in the oven. Serve. 

Fish Force-meat Balls. — Take a little uncooked fish, whatever 
variety is to be served. Chop it fine with one-third as much raw salt 
pork. Mix it with a beaten egg, a few bread crumbs, and season the 
whole with pepper, salt, mace and nutmeg. A little catsup may be 
added ; flour the hands and make it into small balls, and fry in hot 
dripping to a delicate brown. Serve with fish. 

Broiled Haddock with Tartar Sauce. — Prepare a haddock 
weighing about 2j4 pounds, with the bone removed and split open 
ready for broiling. It should be washed by wiping it with a cloth 
wet in salt water, and dried with a clean towel. Spread with soft 
butter, and broil it over a hot, clean fire until it is done; when ready 
to serve, open the broiler and slide the fish on the platter with the 
flesh side of the fish uppermost. Spread with tartar sauce and garnish 
with slices of lemon and parsley. 

Fillet of Haddock — Procure a fresh haddock of about 2 or 2^ 
pounds, remove all the bones and cut the fish into 4 pieces, season 
with one-half teaspoonful salt and one-fourth teaspoonful pepper, 
sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon, lay the fish in a covered dish with 
1 sliced onion, cover and let stand 1 hour; then wipe the fish dry, 
dust with flour, dip each piece separately into beaten egg, cover with 
fresh rolled crackers, and fry light brown in butter and lard mixed; 



124 FISH. 

lay the fish on a hot dish, spread a little maitre d'hotel butter over 
each piece, and serve. 

Smoked Haddock. — Skin smoked haddock, put in the oven and 
bake until it looks dry, then take up and put on a platter and put bits 
of butter over it, set back in the oven until the butter has melted, 
then serve. 

Turbot a la Creme. — One pint of cold fish chopped very fine. 
Take 1 large spoonful of butter, melt in saucepan and stir into it 2 
spoonfuls of flour until smooth. Add 1 pint of milk, scalded, stir- 
ring well until it thickens. Season with one-half teaspoonful of onion 
juice, one-half teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, a dash 
of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. 
Stir into fish, and put in shells or small china dish, covering the top 
with bread crumbs stirred into melted butter. Brown in oven 10 
minutes. 

Fried Smelts. — Clean, wipe dry; put the tail in the mouth, fasten 
with skewer; season with salt and pepper; beat an egg with 2 table- 
spoonfuls of water; dip the smelts in flour, then in egg, then in cracker 
crumbs until well coated; fry in deep fat for 5 minutes; drain. Serve 
on a platter on which is laid a fringed napkin. Decorate with sprigs of 
parsley and bits of lemon. If liked, serve with a mayonnaise sauce. 

Deviled Shrimps. — Open and wash 1 can of shrimps, put half 
pint of milk over the fire, add half pint of bread crumbs, stale, not 
dried ; cook a moment, take from fire and mix in a teaspoonful salt, 
a quarter teaspoonful pepper, a dash of cayenne, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a teaspoonful onion juice, and the chopped hard- 
boiled yolks of 3 eggs. Mix and add shrimps. Fill this in shells or 
individual dishes, cover with crumbs, dot with bits of butter and 
brown in a quick oven. 

Creamed Shrimps. — Open and wash 1 can of shrimps. Drain. 
Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in a saucepan ; when 
i^iclted, add half pint of milk, stir until boiling ; add 1 tablespoonful 
silt, half of pepper, and the shrimps. Stand over the tea-kettle for 
20 minutes and serve. 

Shrimps on Toast. — Thoroughly dredge 1 pint of shrimps with 
flour. Fry in boiling lard. A wire frying basket is most convenient 
for this. Drain them in a sieve, or on a piece of blotting paper. 
Season with pepper and a sprinkling of lemon juice, and lay them 




ORDERING LUNCH FROM THE MENU CARD 




PREPARING FOR THE DINNER PARTY 



FISH. 125 

closely on pieces of fried bread, or daintily buttered toast. Surround 
with a border of parsley. 

Bi'oiled Sardines. — Drain the sardines for 2 hours on a clean 
piece of blotting paper. Nicely toast thin slices of bread ; butter 
them and arrange on a warm platter. Broil the fish over a clean, 
bright fire, and serve them on the toast. 

Deviled Sardines on Toast. — Take the sardines from the box 
and drain all oil from them. Carefully skin and split them open. 
Prepare delicate slices of crisp toast, lay the sardines on these, sprinkle 
with cayenne and a grating of cheese. Put in the oven and leave 
only until heated through, as the toast should not be too dry. Serve 
at once. They can be served without the cheese. 

Fish Cliowder. — Take a cod weighing about 10 pounds. (Other 
fish will do, but cod is best.) Have it cleaned. Cut it in slices an 
inch thick. Cut 1^4 pounds of fat, salt pork in thin slices. Slice 
16 or 18 potatoes thinly. Take a large kettle, put in the pork, fry it 
out, and add to it 3 pints of water. Put in a layer of fish, then a 
layer of potatoes. Sift over all 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful 
of pepper, and a little flour ; then the pork cut in strips ; then 
another layer of fish and the remainder of the potatoes. Fill the 
pot with water until the whole is covered. Put over a hot fire and 
let boil 25 minutes. Have ready a quart of boiling milk and 12 or 
14 soda crackers. Put these in and let boil five minutes longer. 
Serve hot. Delicious. Add a couple of onions sliced when the 
flavor is liked by the guests. 

Brook Trout. — These are very delicate fish. Clean, wash and 
dry them ; split to tail ; season with salt and pepper, and flour them. 
Fry in salt pork drippings, or in a mixture of lard and butter. Let 
the fat be very hot, and fry quickly to a delicate brown on both 
sides. Lay side by side on a heated platter and garnish with parsley 
or celery. They are often served with their heads on, and sometimes 
crisply-fried slices of salt pork are sent up with them. 

Potted Fisli —Cut a fish in conveniently-sized pieces, rub salt on 
each side, place them in an earthenware crock, sprinkling in pepper 
whole, and other whole spices, allspice, cloves, mace, between each 
layer and cover with good cider vinegar. When the jai is nearly full, 
tie a paper over and cover this with an earthenware cover. Bake in a 
moderate oven between 3 and 4 hours. This is delicious, and will 



126 FISH. 

keep 2 or 3 weeks in a cool place. Cod-fish, halibut, chicken 
tongue and ham may be prepared in the same manner. 

Eels. 

Fried Eels. — Eels can be found in market ready skinned for 
cooking. Split them lengthwise and remove the bone. Cut the 
strips into 3-inch lengths; dredge with salt and pepper; dip each 
piece in egg and then in cracker meal. When the lard is hot drop 
them in and fry about 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve 
with potatoes. 

Eel Stew. — Cut the eel in 2-inch pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with 
water enough to cover. Let stew ten minutes ; then throw in pota- 
toes cut in dice ; carrots sliced, and 2 smalls onions also sliced. Let 
cook until done. Thicken with a very little flour and one egg beaten. 
Let boil once or twice and serve at once. Use no butter, as the eel 
abounds in fatty substances. 

Broiled Eels — Eels, if very large, are best split open, cut in 
short pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, and left standing several 
hours, after which they may be carefully broiled. Butter the bars 
of the gridiron to prevent scorching. 

Baked Eels. — Eels are very tempting, cut in small strips and 
laid in a deep dish with bits of salt pork. Season with salt and pep- 
per. Cover well with bread-crumbs and bake half an hour. 

Eel Cliowder. — For two persons : Take 1 pound eels, cut up 
and cover with 1 quart cold water, 1 tablespoonful salt; let boil 3 
minutes; skim out; take a frying-pan and put 2 slices fat salt pork 
cut in dice and fry out a little; then 1 onion, medium size; cut fine 
and cook with the pork 2 minutes ; pour all into a porcelain kettle 
and add the water the eels were boiled in; 3 medium-sized potatoes 
cut in dice; put in and boil about 5 minutes; pick the eels from the 
bones and put in when potatoes are done; heat 1 pint milk in separate 
dish (be sure the milk will not turn and spoil chowder); season with 
more salt if needed ; pepper and butter to taste ; remove all from fire 
and pour milk in ; serve at once ; this is very rich ; if oyster-crackers 
are heated in the oven 5 minutes before serving they are nicer for 
stews. (For all kinds of fish sauces see department of " Sauces and 
Gravies." For fish " salads " see department of " Salads.") 





To select poultry, choose those 
that are fresh and fat. To deter- 
mine whether they are young, try 
the skin under the wing or leg; 
if easily broken, it is young : or turn the wing 
backwards, and if it yields easily, it is tender; 
or press the lower end of the breastbone; it 
it bends to the touch the fowl is young, as in a young fowl this lower 
tip is not yet bone, but a gristly substance. Moreover, there is a 
simpler and better test, which applies to all undressed fowls and game. 
When they have been killed for a long time, the eyes are sunken. 

Choose a yellow-skinned fowl, and a hen bird is preferable, as 
having the finer flavor, and being more profitable on account of their 
shorter, broader shape, thus giving more meat in proportion to the 
weight. The hen turkey is especially fine for boiling. 

Chickens only should be scalded. Other fowls and game should 
be picked dry until the feathers are removed. Singe to remove the 
dozvn and hair. Chickens or fowls should always be purchased dry 
picked. Though they do not look as plump and full as the scalded 
poultry, they are jucier and sweeter. Giblets of a fowl are the neck, 
pinions, gizzard, heart and liver; to this list some cooks add the head 
and feet. 

All kinds of poultry and meat can be cooked quicker by adding 
to the water in which they are boiled a little vinegar or piece of 
lemon ; a piece of soda (baking), the size of a pea, will answer the 
same purpose. A tainted fowl will lose the bad taste or odor, if 
cooked in this manner; if not used too freely, no taste will be ac- 
quired. One tablespoonful of vinegar will usually prove sufficient. 

In roasting or boiling whole any fowl, truss it, which means to draw 
the thighs close to the body, cross the legs at the tail, and tie firmly 
to the body with twine, which is removed before servmg ; or, pass 
the legs through a slit in the skin, near the tail. Skewer the wings 
close to the body. To broil, split the body down the back and 
lay it open. In cutting up fowls for fricassee, do not break the bones ; 

127 



128 POULTRY. 

cut the joints. Fowls with white meat should be well cooked ; with 
dark meat, if the individual taste prefer, they may be slightly under- 
done. As a rule, however, fowls should be well done. 

In roasting a chicken or small fowl, there is danger of the legs 
browning, and becoming too hard to be eaten. To avoid this, take 
strips of cloth, dip them in a little melted lard, or even just rub them 
over with lard, and wind them around the legs. Remove them in 
time to allow the legs to brown delicately. 

Again, when roasting a chicken, first cut off the " drumsticks " and 
lay them in the pan beside the fowl ; when done they will be tender 
and juicy, instead of being dry, tough and scorched, as they usually 
are. None of these plans will be necessary, however, if one has a 
regular roasting-pan. Even two pans of the same size make a very 
fair substitute, by using one as a cover for the other. 

Turkeys should be bought with white meat and black legs. As 
they advance in years their legs get red. Chicken turkeys are one of 
the most esteemed luxuries in the market, and whether they are best 
roasted and stuffed with chestnuts and sausages, so that the crisp skin 
is fairly bursting with savoriness, or boiled with a celery sauce, so 
that each mouthful fairly melts in the mouth, epicures find it hard to 
decide. 

Steam or parboil an old fowl before roasting, not adding stuffing until 
it goes in the oven, but putting a few sticks of celery inside to flavor 
it. To test whether a fowl is done, slit the skin a little between the 
leg and body with a sharp knife, and if the flesh there be still raw 
looking, the bird is not cooked enough. 

To Dress Poultry. — The manner of preparing chickens and 
turkeys is the same, except that with turkeys the sinews should be 
drawn from the legs. This is accomplished by cutting the skin round 
at the joint where the foot unites with the drumstick and twist the 
two pieces a little to bring out the white tendons. There are a few in 
front and a large bunch at the back of the legs inclosed in a thin layer 
of muscle-like membrane that makes them look like one large muscle. 
Scrape off the thick layer and divide the tendon into its small parts, 
and they may be drawn out one by one by passing a fork or skewer 
under them and pulling vigorously. The despised drumstick is 
now a dainty piece of dark but tender meat, which may even be 
breaded and cooked by itself as a specially choice dish in various 



POULTRY. 



129 



ways. Even where it is served with other cuts, fricassee, stew, 
roast or broil, the sinews should always be removed. Pick the fowl 
carefully, singe by twisting a newspaper, not too tightly, and letting 
the flame flare up out of a hole on top of the range. Turn and re- 
turn the fowl over 
this, and the result 
will be most satis- 
factory. To draw 
the fowl, make an 
incision at the 
lower part of the 
breast bone. Cut 
off the oil-bag and 
remove the en- 
trails, preserving 
heart, liver and 
gizzard. Carefully 
remove the gall- 
bag from the liver ; 
if it should be 
broken, it will im- 
part its intense bit- 
terness to all the Improved Roaster and Baker. 

organ. Make an incision through the thick part and first lining of 
the gizzard, peeling off the fleshy part. Clean the heart, and throw 
them all into slightly salted water. Cut off" the feet at the first joint, 
and if it be a turkey or a chicken a year old, remove the tendons of 
the drumsticks according to directions given above. Cut a slit in the 
neck and remove the crop and the wind-pipe and wash the fowl care- 
fully inside; rinsing in salt water is desirable; cut off the pinions or 
thumb joints of the wings and the neck and add them to the giblets. 
Draw the skin of the neck together and tie. 

Glaze for Cold Poultry or Meat. — Meat and poultry, to be served 
cold, may be very much improved in appearance by being glazed. 
The process is very simple. An excellent glaze maybe made of half 
an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of water, and flavored as well 
as colored with extract of beef. To be successful the meat must 
be perfectly cold before the glaze is put on, and the first coating 
9 




130 POULTRY. 

should be allowed to dry before the second is applied. The glaze 
must be well melted and warm and applied with a brush. 

Turkey. 

Roast Turkey. — Select a young gobbler, as a hen turkey is not 
as finely flavored, and to heighten this rich flavor have it dry picked. 
If the turkey has been carefully drawn, wipe out the inside thoroughly 
with a damp cloth. Washing with much water extracts the delicate 
juices. If not very tender, par boil for an hour before roasting or 
stuffing. After the turkey has been filled, not too tightly, with the 
kind of dressing decided upon, sew up with twine, draw the legs 
firmly against the body, fold the wings under the back and tie all 
firmly together with clean cotton cord. Grease the bird well with 
butter, place it in a hot oven to sear quickly to prevent the juices 
escaping during the roasting. Some cooks save a piece of the turkey 
fat, and fasten that with wooden tooth-picks over the breast bone. 
When seared, add a pint of boiling water to the pan and baste 
frequently. Twenty minutes to the pound is the usual length of 
time allowed for roasting. Serve with giblet gravy, and cranberry, 
plum, or currant jelly should always go with it. Sweet potatoes are 
a suitable vegetable to go with it. The old Virginia style of sur- 
rounding the turkey when dished with small, fried sausages no larger 
than a dollar, interspersed with tiny cucumber pickles, still finds favor 
with a conservative few. Small link sausages are also used for 
garnishing. 

Giblet Gravy. — Boil the giblets in salted water; when done chop 
fine and return to the water in which they were boiled. After the 
turkey has been lifted to its hot platter, skim the grease from the 
gravy in the roasting pan, turn in the chopped giblets, thicken with 
browned flour, let boil, add a spoonful of lemon juice and serve. 

Tvirkey with Oyster Dressing-. — An oyster dressing is consid- 
ered by all lovers of the bivalve a great addition to this king of birds. 
Add to one-half loaf of stale baker's bread one-half cupful of melted 
butter ; season with salt and pepper. A couple of stalks of celery 
chopped fine are an addition. Strain one quart of oysters carefully 
from the liquor, stir into dressing and moisten with half of the oyster 
liquor, adding enough water to make the right consistency ; do not 
make a paste of it. Fill the turkey with this mixture, sew up, butter 



POULTRY. 131 

the breast or fasten on a piece of turkey fat, baste frequently with the 
remainder of the oyster hquor; if there is not enough, weaken it with 
a Httle water. Roast according to first rule for turkey. Some cooks 
bind this dressing by mixing in a beaten egg, and use milk for moist- 
ening instead of water. Sometimes, where oysters are scarce, a couple 
dozen fresh oysters finely minced may be stirred into the dressing, 
simply as flavoring, and the moistening done with water, or water and 
milk. Where an oyster dressing is used the bird may be garnished 
with large carefully fried oysters. In helping give one oyster with 
each portion of meat served. Some professional cooks claim that the 
fat drawn from the bird, melted and used in place of butter, gives a 
more delicate flavor to the stuffing. Oyster sauce is nice to serve 
with this roast turkey. 

Sausage Dressing- for Turkeys. — To 2^ pounds of common 
crackers, rolled out a few at a time on a bread board until quite fine, 
add enough of spiced seasoning to give the proper flavor to the dress- 
ing, a piece of butter, salt, 1 or 2 unbeaten eggs (if you have to spare) 
and 1 pound of best raw sausage, with the skins removed before adding 
to the mixture, which is now ready to thoroughly mix with your 
hands. After this, moisten gradually with clear water, only enough 
to have adhere lightly together, using a spoon, and do not make a 
paste of it. This is a delicious dressing, a more toothsome dainty than 
the fowl itself, and will do for roast meats where a dressing is used. 

Oltl-Fashioned Stuffing for Turkey or Chicken. — Crumb up 
1 loaf of stale bread, mix it with a half cup of butter, 1 egg, salt, 
pepper, sage and thyme or celery to taste, all brought to the con- 
sistency of mush by the addition of hot water. Thorough epicures 
never use sage in dressing, claiming that it injures the delicate flavor 
of the fowl. 

Giblet Dressing. — Take the gizzard, heart and liver of the turkey, 
boil till tender, take them and three-quarter pound of salt pork; chop 
all together, then take 8 or 10 crackers, roll fine, add to the chopped 
meat; then add pepper and salt and sage, or prepared seasoning, and 
wet it up with the water in which the giblets were boiled. This 
makes a delicious dressing. If an onion flavor is liked, chop up 1 
onion and add. 

Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. — Most delicious of all is a 
chestnut stuffing, the rich nuts giving a peculiarly delicate taste to 



132 POULTRY. 

the fowl. To make it shell a quart of chestnuts. Put them in hot 
water and boil until the skins are softened, then drain off the water 
and remove the skins. Replace the blanched chestnuts in water and 
boil until soft. Take out a few at a time and press them through a 
colander or potato press. They will mash more easily when hot 
Season the mashed chestnuts with a tablespoonful of butter, a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Moisten 
with a tablespoonful of cream, or a very little soup stock. Mix with a 
plain dressing of butter and bread crumbs moistened to the right con- 
sistency with hot water. 

In filling the turkey do not crowd in the stuffing. Sew up the 
openings and tie or skewer the legs and wings in shape. Rub thickly 
with butter and salt and dredge with flour. Place in a dripping-pan, 
and put half a cup of water in the pan. Use a moderate oven, and 
cover the turkey with another pan for the first forty minutes. Baste 
frequently and turn the bird occasionally to expose all parts to the 
heat. It should be tender and moist and a golden brown all over 
when done. Garnish the dish with small halls of fried sausage or 
fried oysters and parsley. Serve with a giblet dressing and cran- 
berries. Cooked chestnuts are nice to serve with it. 

Stuffing. — Two dozen fresh oysters, 3 good-sized potatoes, mashed 
fine; a little pepper and salt and sage — a pinch — 2 ounces of butter, 
mixed with 2 cupfuls of dry bread crumbs ; a little cream to moisten. 
Fill the turkey and place it in a covered baking-pan, in which is placed 
a little nutmeg, 3 bay leaves, some salt and a small piece of onion 
and 2 cups of water, and roast in a well-heated oven from 3 to 4 hours, 
according to size. Baste every 20 or 30 minutes and turn twice. 

Roast Turkey without Stuffing-. — Epicures pronounce the flavor 
of turkey prepared in this manner superior to that where stuffing is 
used. Dress in the usual manner ; cleanse by carefully wiping the 
inside with a soft, damp cloth. Turn the wings against the back at 
the first joint, and secure the legs closely to the sides with cord. 
Place the turkey in a sauce pan, dust over it a little pepper, and lay 
upon the breast a large piece of butter. Bake half an hour in a very 
hot oven ; do not put any water in the pan, but baste with the oil 
that fries out and the melted butter. After the half hour cook slowly 
and steadily, allowing 20 minutes for each pound. Fifteen minutes 
before removing from oven sprinkle with salt. Serve with giblet grav)-. 



POULTRY. 



133 



Boiled Turkey. — Many old-fashioned cooks and some of the new- 
fashioned consider that the proper way to cook a turkey is to boil it. 
To do this singe, draw and wash the turkey thoroughly, wipe with a 
soft cloth and rub the inside with salt. Make a stuffing of 1 quart of 
bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper and chopped 
parsley, and mix the ingredients together with an egg. Chop up 
several stalks of celery and add. Fill the breast of the fowl with 
some of this stuffing and put the remainder into the body. Tie the 
legs and wings close to the body and place it in salted boiling water 
with the breast downward. Boil rapidly the first half hour, then draw 
it to the back of the stove and cook slowly until tender. Serve with 
celery or chestnut sauce. If oysters chopped are used in the stuffing, 
serve with an oyster sauce. Bread sauce is also used by some cooks. 
An old-fashioned custom was to serve ham or smoked tongue with a 
boiled turkey. 

Boned Turkey Roasted. — An easy way to bone a turkey is to 
slit the skin down the back with a sharp knife and, raising one side 
at a time, with the fin- 
gers separate the flesh 
from the bones until 
the wings and legs are 
reached ; unjoint these 
from the body, and cut- 
ting through the bone, 
turn back the flesh and 
remove the bones. The 
flesh may be re-shaped 
by stuffing. Stuff with 
force-meat made of veal 
and a little pork chop- 
ped fine, and season 
with salt, pepper, sage 
or savory, and the j uice 
of a lemon. Sew in 
shape, and press the 
wings and legs close to the body, and tie all firmly so that the upper 
surface may be smooth and plump. Lard the breast with narrow 
strips of firm, fat pork, and bake until thoroughly done, basting often 




134 POULTRY. 

with salt and water and a little butter. Serve with a giblet dressing, 
to which has been added a cup of strained tomatoes. 

Braised Turkey. — Truss and stuff as for roasting, using a force- 
meat made of minced chicken or veal, mushrooms and sweetbreads, 
in addition to the bread ; lard the breast with fine, square shreds of 
fat salt pork ; place the turkey in a stewpan, breast uppermost, with 
sliced vegetables and sufficient broth to cover. Set it on top of the 
stove, and as soon as it begins to simmer put into the oven and cook 
slowly for an hour and a half. Baste occasionally with the gravy. 
Garnish the turkey with stoned olives and thicken the gravy. 

Turkey, or Chicken, Jellied. — Two cups of stock, in which an 
onion, celery and bay leaf have been boiled; one-half pint of water, 
one-fourth package of gelatine, a little salt and pepper, a tablespoonful 
of brown caramel ; dissolve the jelly in the stock and water, season 
with salt and pepper, place some of the jelly in a mould, add pieces of 
light and dark meat of boiled turkey or chicken, add more jelly, then 
meat till the mould is full. Serve garnished with celery. 

To Cook an Old Turkey, or Other Fowl. — No flesh, however 
tough, can resist five hours' steaming in a close kettle. A monstrous 
turkey, whose years were beyond comparison, was once accommo- 
dated with a position in a big wash-boiler, turned for the occasion into 
a steamer by a structure of coarse wire fence netting near the bottom. 
After half-a-day spent in this steam bath, it was taken out, disjointed 
and the pieces dipped in melted butter, dredged thickly with flour and 
then fried in boiling fat, as doughnuts are fried. An epicure would 
not have disdained the dish. 

Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread crumbs with a little milk ; 
butter a pan and put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of turkey, cut 
in dice, and seasoned with salt and pepper, then a layer of crumbs, 
and some add a little chopped cold potato and so on until the pan is 
full. If any dressing or gravy has been left, add it. Make a thick- 
ening of one or two eggs, half cup of milk and one-quarter cup each 
butter and bread crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; cover with 
a pan ; bake half an hour, and then let brown. Or, instead of the 
milk to moisten, make a broth from the bones, skimming them out, 
thicken a little and pour over before spreading over the top dressing. 

Turkey Rag-out. — An appetizing way of using bits of turkey cold 
is thus : Take the pieces of turkey and free them from bone and 



POULTRY. 135 

skin; if there are any good-sized pieces, cut them in bits. Put the 
meat in a sauce-pan with whatever stuffing and dressing may have 
been left and a tablespoonful of butter. Season hberally with salt 
and cayenne pepper. Place over the fire and let boil. 

Turkey, Moulded. — Prepare exactly as above. Place over the 
fire, and when the mixture boils break into it an egg and stir 
thoroughly. Turn into a buttered mould, and when cold turn it out 
into a dish and slice nicely. 

Turkey Pie. — Cut up fine, put in baking-dish with bits of butter, 
sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, pour over one cup of water or 
stock ; cover with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, over which pour 
two well-beaten eggs. Bake until brown on top. 

Turkey Hash. — Cut the remnants of turkey, from a previous 
dinner, into small pieces. Boil the bones in a quart of water until 
the quart is reduced to a pint; then take out the bones, and add to 
the liquor they were boiled in, what turkey-gravy remains or some 
stock, or a small piece of butter, together with salt and pepper ; let 
it boil up; put in the pieces of turkey; add what dressing was left, 
or dredge with a little flour. Let boil again and serve in a hot dish. 

Ohicken. 

Roast Chicken. — Dress, singe and prepare for stuffing same as 
turkey. Stuff with giblet dressing, oyster dressing, old-fashioned or 
any other preferred dressing as given for turkeys. Fill the breast of 
the chicken in at the neck until plump and even, draw the neck skin 
together, tie closely, place remainder of stuffing in at the other end 
and sew up the incision ; draw the thighs up close to the body, and 
tie the legs crossed over the tail firmly with twine. Fasten the wings 
to the body with skewers. Rub the chicken all over with a little 
butter with the ends of the fingers, and also a little salt. Dredge 
well, but not too thickly, with flour. Place in your dripping-pan on 
the raised grate, first placing two of thinnest slices of fat salt pork on 
the grate to keep the chicken from sticking. Place on the breast and 
thighs the thinnest slices of fat salt pork (with no streak of lean), keep- 
ing them in place by sticking a wooden toothpick in them. Have 
the oven hot. Allow 15 minutes to the pound for baking. 

Don't put any water in the dripping-pan at first. Allow the flour 
to brown nicely, and the juice from the fat to get hot and brown. 



m t6ULTRV. 

When well browned pour a cup of boiling water or oiie-lialf iel' 
spoonful butter and a little salt, and baste the chicken with it. Repeat 
this occasionally, but add no more water unless it should all cook 
away. When one side is browned, turn other side, then on the back 
till breast is nicely browned. Dredge with flour again about 15 min- 
utes before serving, and baste well. If it should get too brown before 
being well cooked, lay a buttered brown paper over it. Make a gib- 
let sauce according to rule before given, or a plain gravy in the pan, 
by turning off part of the fat, adding sufficient water and thickening 
with a little flour rubbed smooth in cold water or milk. 

Cliickea Dressiiig-s. — Use any of the dressings given for turkeys. 

Chicken Sauces or Gravies. — Use any of the gravies or sauces 
given for turkeys. 

Boned Chicken. — Prepare the same as for boned turkey. 

Boiled Chickens. — Prepare same as boiled turkey. 

Boiled Chicken with Oysters. — Pick and clean two plump 
chickens ; dress as for roasting ; rub over some salt and pepper and 
a little celery seed ; fill the inside with oysters ; secure the ends of 
the chickens and place them in a saucepan that has a tight lid ; place 
this in another containing boiling water; keep it boiling until the 
chickens are tender; then take them out; stir into the gravy the 
yolks of 2 eggs and one-quarter pint of cream ; season to taste with 
salt and pepper; let the sauce get very hot, but do not allow it to 
boil, or it will curdle. Serve immediately. 

Baked Chicken with Rice. — Cut a chicken into pieces in the 
usual manner, season with pepper and salt, and place in a deep dish 
lined with thin slices of salt pork, ham, or bacon according to taste. 
Add a pint of veal gravy, into which has been stirred 1 finely-chopped 
onion, and fill the dish with boiled rice, heaping slightly. To protect 
from the direct heat of the oven, cover with a paste, which may be 
economically made of flour and water. Bake for an hour, remove 
the paste, and serve while hot. 

Chicken Fricassee. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken of 3 or 4 pounds 
into 10 pieces and place in a saucepan. Add 1 even tablespoonful 
salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions; cover with boiling water 
and cook till tender; then mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 1 ounce 
butter, and add it to the fricassee. Ten minutes before serving mix 
1 pint of prepared flour with 1 teaspoonful of butter, one-fourth cup- 



POULTRY. 137 

ful of milk, 2 whole eggs beaten into a stiff batter : cut with a table- 
spoon small portions from the batter, drop them into the fricassee, 
cover and boil 6 minutes; then remove instantly the saucepan to side 
of stove, where they stop boiling. In serving arrange the chicken 
on a warm dish and lay the dumplings in a circle around it. Sprinkle 
1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over the whole and serve. The 
batter will make 12 good-sized dumplings. 

Brown Fricassee of Chicken. — Cut the chicken in 11 pieces. 
Place 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan; when a nice brown put in the 
chicken. Stir till every piece is nicely browned, then add 2 table- 
spoonfuls of flour; stir again, add 1 pint of boiling water on stock, 
stir until it boils; add a teaspoonful of salt. Cover and let simmer 
gently until tender, add a teaspoonful of onion juice and a little black 
pepper. Dish. Put the neck piece, heart, liver, gizzard and back 
pieces in the centre of the dish; put the two breast pieces on top, the 
second joint, on each side of the plate, the legs crossed on the other, 
and a wing at each end. Pour the sauce over, sprinkle with chopped 
parsley and serve. 

Fricasseed Chicken with Oysters. — Boil a chicken or fowl until 
tender, first cutting it into small pieces. Take up the pieces and fry 
them in butter. Boil the water in which the chicken was cooked 
down to 1 pint, add salt and pepper to taste, butter the size of an egg, 
and flour to thicken. Drop a pint of oysters into the butter that the 
chicken was fried in and cook until the edges curl, then pour into the 
sauce with half a cup of cream added the last thing. Boil up and 
pour over the chicken. 

Dumpling-s for Fricasseed Chickens. — One and one-half cups of 
flour put into the sieve, into which put 1 scant teaspoonful of soda, 2 
scant teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, half teaspoonful of salt; sift 
twice, then add two-third cups of sweet milk; mix light, handling as 
little as possible; roll half inch thick; cut with a knife into small 
squares ; sift a little flour over (very little). Then after the soup or 
stew is rightly seasoned and boiling well, lay the dumplings on top, 
covering tightly, and let them boil for 15 minutes without removing 
the cover. Have it set off where it will not burn or stick on. 

Kentucky Chicken. — Cut a fat hen into pieces and stew, add 
plenty of milk, thickening and butter, to make a good deal of rich 
gravy. Split little baking-powder biscuits, lay on the platter and 



138 POULTRY. 

arrange the chicken and sauce over them. Edge the platter with 
thin shces of salt pork dipped in flour and fried. 

Brunswick Stew. — This is a Virginia concoction, and very pala- 
table it is too. A medium sized chicken cut as for frying, a potato for 
each member of the family, 2 ears of corn cut from the cob, a gen- 
erous handful of lima beans, and three nice round tomatoes. Salt 
and pepper to taste. The chicken is first parboiled and then the 
vegetables added, and the whole cooked an hour and a half longer. 
It may sound messy, but it tastes good. It is served in a deep platter 
and the only other vegetable used is rice — this last not mushy, but 
where each grain stands out by itself 

Chicken Stewed with Potatoes. — Prepare and cook chicken in 
same manner as for chicken pie; just before chicken is quite done 
pare quantity of new potatoes, lay them on top of chicken, let them 
boil until done; then take potatoes up on plate by themselves, turn 
pint of sweet milk in with chicken, thicken with flour, wet with sweet 
milk, season with pepper, salt and plenty of butter. 

Chicken Stewed Avith Tomato. — Cut up the chicken and fry it 
lightly, then make a rich brown gravy by dredging a little flour into 
the butter in which the chicken was fried. Put in sufficient water to 
make a bowl of gravy. Cut up the tomatoes (there should be a quart 
after they are skinned) and a medium-sized onion, add to them a little 
chopped parsley, salt, cayenne and black pepper. When all are well 
mixed put in the chicken, pouring in the gravy. Let stew for two 
hours. Then put in a pint bowl of rice and let it stew slowly an 
hour longer. It should be a moist stew. 

Chicken Stew, Creole Style. — Three pullets, ] quart of tomatoes 
(fresh or canned), 6 green pepper pods, 1 quart stewed peas, 1 onion, 
1 slice boiled ham. Joint the chickens and stew them together with 
the peppers, ham and onion in enough water to cover them until the 
meat falls from the bones. Remove the chicken to a large dish and 
keep hot. Strain the broth, put the tomatoes in the liquor and stew 
down thick, season with salt. Add the peas while hot. Pour the 
stewed tomato over the chicken, then the peas. 

Maryland Fried Chicken. — Cut up the chicken in joints, salt 
and pepper, put in stew pan, add enough hot water to keep from 
burning ; cover closely and set on back of stove to steam for one 
hour. Have ready a hot spider, remove chicken from saucepan and 



POULTRY. 139 

brown in butter or lard, as desired ; when all the chicken is browned 
and removed to a hot platter then pour in the spider any liquid that 
may remain in saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour previously 
mixed to smooth batter, 1 ^ pints of milk and some parsley chopped 
fine ; boil all together, season sauce to suit taste and pour over 
chicken. By this method the chicken retains its fine flavor, is thor- 
oughly cooked, tender and delicious, without being dry, hard or un- 
derdone, as is so often the case with fried chicken. 

Chickens Fried iu Batter. — Choose a fine chicken, cut it into 
pieces, dip them into egg batter; bake them in the oven in clear hot 
butter for about 15 minutes. If the chicken is parboiled before frying 
or baking, there will be no danger of the chicken being underdone. 

Broiled Chicken. — Clean, dress, singe, etc. Cut down the mid- 
dle of the back with a sharp knife, remove the contents and clean 
thoroughly. Lay down upon a clean board and pound with a pestle 
to break the bones enough to make it lay flat. Sprinkle well with 
salt and pepper, and rub all over with the fingers some soft butter. 
Broil over a hot fire, constantly turning — or better still, pin nicely in 
buttered brown paper and broil, turning every few minutes, being 
careful not to scorch the paper. See that the paper is pinned in such 
a way as to prevent any of the juice escaping. Or, prepare as above 
and sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and bake in a hot oven a good 
half hour. 

Baked Chicken. — Split a dressed chicken down the back, put it 
in a baking-pan, chicken, inside down. Cover with strips of salt pork, 
pepper, salt and bake. It will be found delicious. Take up, pour off 
the fat from the pan gravy, add a cup of milk and let boil up. 

Chiclien Pie. — Take a pair of fat chickens ; prepare and disjoint 
them. Put in a stew-pan and season highly with salt, black pepper 
and a little cayenne; dredge in a little flour, and cover well with cold 
water; stew over a slow fire three-quarters of an hour. Line the sides 
of a deep baking dish with a nice crust. Lay the chicken in the dish, 
removing the largest bones. Pour in half the gravy, dredge lightly 
with flour, and add a few bits of butter. Roll out the upper crust, 
cover carefully, being sure to leave an opening in the top. Bake in 
a quick oven about an hour. Before sending to table pour in the 
remainder of the hot gravy. This pie is equally good made of cold 
chicken. Put the meat in layers, dredging flour and seasoning over 



140 POULTRY. 

each. Pour in some of the broth or gravy in which the fowl waS 
cooked. Line the dish with paste and cover as before. Add bits of 
butter before putting on the crust. 

Cbickeu Pie witli Oysters. — Boil a good-sized chicken until 
tender, drain off the liquor from a quart of oysters. Line the sides 
and bottom of a large, round pan with crust, put in a layer of oysters 
and a layer of chicken until the pan is full. Season with pepper, salt, 
bits of cottolene and the oyster liquor, add some of the chicken 
liquor. Cover with crust and bake. Serve with sliced lemon. 

Cliickeu Pot-Pie. — Cut up the chicken as for chicken pie, put it 
in a kettle, cover it with water, add a little salt, and boil until done; 
have ready a light biscuit dough, cut in squares, lay it on top of the 
chicken, cover tightly and boil 30 minutes without lifting the cover 
or allowing the boiling to cease. Lay the chicken in a deep dish, 
removing the largest bones. Cover with the crust, season and thicken 
the gravy and pour over it. Light soda biscuit, or baking-powder 
biscuit, can be split and laid on a platter and fricasseed chicken poured 
over them hot. This is much more wholesome than the boiled pot- 
pie. This rule is applicable to veal, venison, and other pot-pies. 
Cold biscuit can be utilized as pot-pie. Heat and soften thoroughly 
in the hot broth, arrange on a platter with the chicken, or any other 
variety of meat that may be used, and pour the gravy over all. These 
have the merit of being always light and digestible. 

Chicken Pot-Pie, Southern Style. — One large chicken, dis- 
jointed as for a stew, one pound of lean ham, four medium-sized 
potatoes. Make a plain pot-pie crust, any preferred style. Cut the 
ham and the potatoes into dice. Put a layer of chicken in the kettle, 
then a layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Then 
the remainder of the chicken, and then the potatoes, ham, etc., pota- 
toes last. Pour in 1 quart of water. Roll out the paste an inch or 
more in thickness. Make an opening in it for the escape of steam, 
and lay it over the top of the last layer. Simmer continuously for 
\y^ hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, add, through the 
opening in the crust, 1 tablespoonful of butter cut in bits and rolled 
in flour. Dish on a large platter. Break up the crust in pieces and 
arrange around the edge of the platter. 

Chicken Short-Cake. — Make a short-cake with two teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder, 1 pint of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed 



POULTRY. 141 

into the flour; moisten with 1 cupful of sweet milk. Bake quickly. 
Tear open; lay on a large platter and turn the stewed chicken over 
it. Serve at once. 

Smothered Cliicken. — Cut chicken as for frying, roll each piece 
in flour, with which has been mixed salt and pepper; have lard or 
butter hot in a skillet (half an onion chopped fine may be added if 
desired); pack the chicken in, dredge flour, pour in a pint of water, 
cover tightly and bake in a hot oven. Open the pan and brown 
lightly. Make a gravy in the pan. 

Chickeu Pucldiug-. — Cut up two young chickens, stew in water 
enough to cover. When boiled quite tender, season; take from the 
broth, remove all the large bones. Put the meat in a buttered baking-- 
dish ; add some bits of butter and pour over them the following batter : 
4 eggs, beaten light, 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 
1 teaspoonful salt, and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with 
enough flour to make a batter like griddle-cakes. Bake one hour in 
a moderate oven. Make a gravy of the broth, thickening it with a 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water; add a little 
boiling water to the gravy if necessary. Let boil up once. Serve 
hot in a gravy boat, with the pudding. 

Chicken Roly-Poly. — One quart of flour sifted with 3 teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt ; no shortening. Roll out 
about one-half inch thick. Cover it with a layer of minced chicken, 
veal or mutton. Have the meat seasoned and free from gristle. Roll 
the crust over like a roll jelly-cake. Lay it on a buttered dish, with 
the folded-over end down, and put in a steamer for half an hour. 
Serve for lunch, giving a slice to each person. If there is any gravy 
left over from the day before or any broth, make hot gravy to serve 
with it. 

Chickeu Turn-overs. — Chop cold roast chicken fine ; heat it up 
with a little water and gravy, or butter. Season ; dredge with a 
tablespoonful of flour ; let boil up and remove from the fire to cool. 
When cool, roll plain pie-crust out thin ; cut in rounds as large as a 
saucer ; wet the edge with cold water ; put a large spoonful of the 
minced meat on one-half of the round, fold the other half over ; 
pinch the edges well together and cook in a hot oven. They may 
also be fried in hard fat like fried cakes. These are nice served hot, 
or cold they are a much-liked addition to the lunch-basket. 



142 POULTRY. 

Stock Jelly for Poultry or Meats. — One quart of soup stock, 
seasoned with salt, white pepper, celery-seed and the juice of 1 lemon ; 
let cool ; remove the fat; then boil slowly with the white of 1 egg to 
clarify it. The egg and the sediment will rise; skim carefully; dis- 
solve ] ounce of gelatine in the stock. Strain the whole through a 
napkin. It can be colored different tints with the same colorings 
used for soup. It can be used in different ways with boned turkey, 
cold meats, etc., and can be cut in blocks for garnishing elabo- 
rate meat dishes. 

Chicken Curry. — Cut up a chicken weighing about 2 pounds, as 
for a fricassee, and put over with sufficient water to cover it ; 
cook slowly until tender ; season thoroughly. Remove the chicken, 
pour the liquor in a bowl and set it to one side. Cut up two small 
onions, and fry with a piece of butter ; when the onions are brown, 
skim out and put in the chicken ; fry three or four minutes ; next 
sprinkle over it 2 teaspoonfuls of curry powder. Pour in the liquor 
in which the chicken was stewed, stir all well together, stew five min- 
utes, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a 
little cold water. A beaten egg may be stirred in at the last. Serve 
with a border of hot boiled rice laid around the edge of the platter, 
and the curry in the centre. It is a handsome side dish to accompany 
a full dinner, with roast meats. The curry powder may be bought, 
or made after the receipt given in this book. Other meats and other 
fowls may be prepared in this same fashion. 

Indian Curry. — Cut chicken or lamb into small pieces, and stew 
until tender. When partly cooked add 1 onion and 2 tomatoes 
chopped fine, and season with salt and pepper. When the meat 
becomes tender, skim it out and mix together 1 dessert-spoon of 
curry powder, 2 dessertspoons of tomato catsup, 2 dessertspoons of 
Worcestershire sauce, and 2 dessertspoons of flour. Stir this into 
the gravy. Cook five minutes. Return the meat to the kettle. Let 
it boil up once, and serve with rice cooked dry. 

Chicken a la Tartare. — Take half-grown young chickens, split 
down the back, place in a baking-pon, spread thickly with butter, 
dust with salt and pepper, sprinkle with minced parsley and chopped 
onion, cover the pan, set in the oven for half an hour ; take up, brush 
over with beaten egg, dip in grated bread crumbs, and broil over the 
fire until brown. 



POULTRY. 143 

Mushroom Chicken. — Boil one hen until tender, cut off the meat 
and chop fine. Crack the bones and put them back in the water the 
hen was boiled in, and allow to simmer. Then put into a hot skillet 
1 tablespoonful of butter, and then into this 3 tablespoons of sifted 
flour. One cup of milk and 1 cup of the stock, warmed together — 
pepper and salt. Put into a buttered baking dish 1 layer of the 
chicken, then a layer of chopped mushrooms, then some of the dress- 
ing, and so on until the dish is full. Cover with toasted bread crumbs 
and bake. Wetting the crumbs with a beaten egg makes them brown 
nicely 

Scalloped Chicken. — This very nice supper dish may be made 
from such bits of cold chicken as will not otherwise present a nice 
appearance. For each cupful of the minced chicken allow half as 
much white sauce ; put the chicken in layers alternating with chopped 
hard-boiled eggs, 1 for each cupful ; season and moisten with the 
sauce; cover with bread crumbs and bake 15 minutes. Turkey or 
veal may be used in this way, and instead of baking in one large dish 
individual scallop shells may be used when it will make a nice course 
at dinner. 

Chicken Patties. — Pick the meat from a cold chicken and cut in 
small pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with a little hot water and milk, 
butter, salt and pepper. Thicken with a little flour and the yolk of 
an egg. Line patty- pans with good crust, glaze with the white of an 
egg, and bake. When done fill with the chicken and send to the 
table hot. Cut out round cakes of the crust for the tops, and bake 
them. 

Novelty Chicken Pie. — Dress two chickens and cut each into 
nine pieces. Cut the breast in two parts, either crosswise or length- 
wise. Unjoint the legs and cut off the neck where it joins the ribs. 
Cook in plenty of water, adding a few slices of " boiling " pork. Re- 
move the meat before it is so tender that it will cleave from the bones. 
Let it stand till cold. Mix to a smooth batter a heaped quart measure 
of flour, a pint of sweet cream, a pint of milk, 3 beaten eggs, a heap- 
ing teaspoonful of salt and 2 full teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Rub 
the sides and bottom of a small pan or large basin with cold butter. 
Spread a little more than a third of the batter over the bottom, then 
arrange half the meat, including the giblets, another layer of batter, 
then the remainder of the meat. Make the top layer of the rest of 



144 POULTRY. 

the batter, using a knife dipped in cold water to form a smooth sur- 
face. Strain the Hquor in which the chickens were boiled, season to 
taste, and set where it will reach scalding heat, but not boil. Imme- 
diately before serving the pie, thicken the liquor with 3 well-beaten 
eggs and a little cornstarch wet with cold water if it is not as thick as 
desired. 

Minced Chicken. — Mince very fine the meat left from cold roast 
chicken, removing all skin, bones and gristle. Put the bones and all 
the trimmings into a saucepan with a bunch of savory herbs and a 
pint of broth or water; let this all cook for nearly an hour, and then 
strain it off. Chop 2 hard-boiled eggs very fine; season the chicken 
with a little pepper, salt and mace ; mix it with the eggs. Thicken 
the gravy with a teaspoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of butter, and a 
cup of cream. Pour the gravy over the chicken mixture ; let it get 
very hot, but do not let it boil. Garnish the dish with sippets of 
toasted bread. It is nice to cook cold chicken in this fashion for 
chicken short-cake, etc. 

Little Dish of Chicken. 

Chicken Legs, to Cook. — There are many special and delicious 
ways of preparing individual parts of chicken, and in small families it 
is really more economical to cook some portions of a pair of chickens 
first, than to cook all at once and then re-serve. 

Take the drum-sticks, boil about 20 minutes, and then bone, sea- 
son with pepper and salt and a pinch of mustard for each leg. Rub 
all over to see the seasoning is evenly distributed; roll the drum- 
sticks, skewer, with small toothpicks, in shape. Cover with beaten 
egg, and then roll in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat about 5 
minutes, browning each side. Serve with a brown sauce made in the 
pan, stirring into it 1 even teaspoonful dry mustard, a pinch of cay- 
enne and 1 tablespoonful catsup. Turkey legs may be served in the 
same manner, only cooking longer. 

Geese. 

Roast Goose. — Select a young goose, which can be told by a 
brittle windpipe, white skin, plump breast and yellow feet ; the web 
should tear easily. An old goose is known by its red feet. Singe, 
draw, wash and wipe the goose. Beat the breast flat with a rolling- 



POULTRY. 145 

pin, draw up the legs and skewer both legs and wings close to the 
body. Stuff with the following dressing : 1 pint stale bread crumbs, 
2 medium-sized onions boiled and mashed, one-half teacupful boiled 
rice, 1 teaspoonful powdered sage, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-fourth 
teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful melted butter and one-half tea- 
cupful milk. Roast in a covered pan, allowing rather more than 20 
minutes to the pound. Baste frequently, with the following mixture: 
One teaspoonful made mustard, a saltspoonful salt, a dash of cayenne, 
a large tablespoonful melted butter, a teacupful hot water, a teaspoon- 
ful vinegar. This basting is a great improvement. 

Boil the giblets slowly 2 hours, or until tender, with a slice of 
onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns and a blade of mace. When ready to make 
the gravy, take 2 tablespoonfuls of oil from the roasting pan of the 
goose ; add the water the giblets were boiled in, enough water to finish 
the gravy, the giblets, chopped very fine, and flour to thicken. Boil up 
and serve in a gravy boat. A cup of rich milk improves this gravy. 
Serve with hot apple-sauce. An apple dressing can be used, and is 
considered by some to add greatly to the flavor of the goose. It is 
made as follows : 

Apple Dressing- or Stuffing-. — One pint of tart apple-sauce, 1 tea- 
cupful of bread crumbs, a little sage, salt and pepper. Mix and use 
to stuff roast duck, goose and some kinds of game. 

Potato Stuffing. — Mashed potatoes ; season with cream or rich 
milk, butter, cayenne pepper and salt. Add 1 cupful of bread crumbs. 
Use for any fowl. 

Apple-sauce for Meats. — Slice tart apples, first paring. Stew 
half an hour, adding a little water. Throw in butter in proportion of 
1 small teaspoonful to 1 quart of sauce. Beat fine. Use no sugar. 
Serve, especially with roast goose, or duck. 

Goose Stuffed with Sauerkraut. — Stuff a dressed goose with 
sauerkraut. Sew it up, tie into shape, and place it in a large kettle, 
cover it with about 2 quarts of sauerkraut. Cover the whole with 
boiling water and simmer gently for 3 hours. At the end of this time 
take out the goose, lay it in a baking-pan, baste it with melted butter, 
dredge the breast with flour, put it in a quick oven until a nice brown 
(about an hour). Serve in a bed of the boiled sauerkraut. 

Devilert Goose. — Take the joints of cold goose, and brown either 
on a broiler, or in a hot frying-pan. Make the following sauce ; 
JO 



146 POULTRY. 

Sauce. One tablespoonful each of made mustard, 1 of any kind of 
catsup, 1 of pepper-sauce, 1 of currant jelly <ind 1 of lemon-juice. 
Take up the meat on a warm dish and pour the sauce over it. Or 
use the following : Sauce II. Put in the pan where the goose was 
heated, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tea- 
spoonful mustard, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful catsup. Let boil 
up once and pour over the goose. This is also nice for ham, in which 
case use the ham gravy instead of butter. 

Force-meat Balls. — The stuffing left from roast chicken or turkey 
can be mixed with minced beef, mutton or veal, shaped into round 
cakes or patties, and browned in a hot frying-pan with a little butter. 

Ducks. 

The flavor of all ducks is improved by putting a few tablespoonfuls 
of minced celery and onion in the bodies before they are cooked. 
Parboiling a duck removes some of the oily flavor. 

Roast Duck. — Draw and singe a pair of young, fat ducks; wipe 
inside and outside with a damp towel. Make a stuffing of 2 cupfuls 
of stale bread crumbs, a minced boiled onion, a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered sage, and a tablespoonful of butter, seasoned with salt and 
pepper. Mix well, and fill the bodies of the ducks. Place in a baking 
pan, lay thin slices of fat bacon or salt pork over the breasts, pour a 
teacupful of boiling water in the bottom of the pan, and set in a quick 
oven for an hour and a quarter. Baste often. Serve with onion sauce 
and apple jelly, or with currant jelly, or a puree of apples. 

If giblet gravy is wanted, boil the giblets tender, pour off the fat 
from the pan gravy, thicken with 1 tablespoonful of browned flour; 
add the chopped giblets, and salt and pepper to taste. Parboiling 
before roasting will remove the strong taste of ducks. Apple dressing, 
as for a goose can be used. Also, potato stuffing (see directions). 

Sauce for Ducks or Game. — A delicious sauce for eating with 
ducks may be made by beating a generous teaspoonful of dry mustard 
into a tumbler of currant jelly. 

Onion Sauce. — Peel 4 or 5 small onions ; put them in a saucepan 
with boiling water enough to cover; add a tablespoonful of salt; let 
boil half an hour; drain and press through a fine sieve ; melt a table- 
.«;poonful of butter; add a tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth, 
with half a pint of boiling water. 



POULTRY. 147 

Onion Dressing. — Peel 4 large onions, put into boiling water, let 
simmer five or ten minutes, and just before they are taken out, put in 
10 sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness, skim 
them out and chop very fine ; add one-fourth pound bread crumbs, 
seasoning, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter ; work the whole together with 
yolk of an egg. It should be rather highly seasoned, and many use 
the onions raw. This is nice for either goose or pork. If for goose, 
simmer the liver a few minutes, chop fine, and add to dressing. 

Boned Ducks. — Ducks can be boned and filled in the same 
manner as turkey or chicken. A chopped onion, however, must be 
added to the other ingredients. When boiled ducks are used for 
force-meat, the effect will not be as good, for the meat is entirely dark. 
This may be in a measure obviated by the use of stock jellies. Chop 
a cupful of this, and spread over the force-meat just before tying up. 
This will give a mottled appearance to the filling. Boned ducks may 
be served whole, decorated with stock jelly cut in various forms, or 
sliced, by placing a square of jelly on each piece. Greens for the 
edge of the platter. 

Boiled Duck. — Prepare like boiled turkey. This is a very nice 
dish, and is preferred by many to roast duck, as a more delicate dish. 
The broth can be kept until next day, skimmed, and a very nice soup 
made. 

Fricasseed Duck. — Prepare and cut the same as chicken for 
fricassee. Lay two or three slices of salt pork on the bottom of the 
stew pan. Put in the duck, with just enough cold water to cover. 
Stew slowly one hour, keeping the pan covered. Season with salt 
and pepper; add one-half teaspoonful powdered sage, or some green 
sage minced fine; 1 chopped onion; stew another half hour, or until 
the duck is tender, adding boiling water if needed. Stir up 1 table- 
spoontul of browned flour in a little cold water, and add to the stew. 
Let boil up, and serve together in one large dish. Green peas are a 
nice accompaniment. 

Ducks with Turnips. — Prepare a couple of young ducks same 
as for roasting. Put in a stew pan lined with slices of bacon ; cover 
the breast with slices of bacon; add an onion, sliced; a carrot, cut 
in pieces; a bunch of sweet herbs, or simply a little parsley; pepper 
and salt to taste. Cover these with broth or stock, or even water, 
adding the juice of 1 lemon. Place the pan over a gentle fire and let 



148 POULTRY. 

simmer until the ducks are done, frequently basting them. When 
done, remove from the pan, placing where they will keep hot. Take 
6 peeled turnips, cut into small dice, and cook until tender, but not 
broken, in the liquor in which the ducks were cooked, adding boiling 
water, if necessary. Take up, arrange on a platter, lay the ducks on 
top, and serve. Strain and thicken the gravy, and send in with it. 
The gravy can be omitted if not liked. 

Sour Duck (German). — Dress the duck nicely. Soak 24 hours 
in vinegar. Take 1 tablespoonful butter, put in a pan and brown. 
Stuff the duck, put it in the pan, dredge freely with flour, baste often 
with the butter, salt to taste. 

Sour Sauce for Koast Duck. — One tablespoonful butter, 1 table- 
spoonful flour, 1 onion sliced, cook both in the butter till brown, half 
teacup vinegar, 2 bay leaves, 1 teacupful cream or milk, salt and pep- 
per. Flavor with a bit of lemon-peel. Let boil up in the pan. Heat 
the milk to boiling-point, separately, and pour in at the very last. 
This prevents curdling badly. Flavor with a bit of lemon-peel, which 
can be taken out when served. Have boiling hot, and send in with 
the duck. 

Deviled Duck. — A dish that is used a great deal at stag suppers, 
and generally liked, is deviled duck. To prepare it boil or roast a 
duck and let it become cool. Remove the skin and bones and cut 
the meat into moderate-sized pieces. Boil the livers and mash to a 
paste and put in a sauce-pan with 1 tablespoonful of dry mustard, 1 
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne pepper and the juice of 1 lemon. 
Mix thoroughly, add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter and one-fourth 
cupful water. In this mixture put lyi pints of the cold duck. Place 
the saucepan over the fire and stir until the mixture is smoking hot. 
Turn on a hot dish and garnish with sliced lemon and sprigs of pars- 
ley. Send to the table as soon as possible. Serve with the duck 
with thin pieces of buttered toast and olives. Left-overs of duck 
may be deviled same as Deviled Goose. 




A POTPOURRI 




H 











As regards the age of a bird, the 
experienced housekeeper can tell at 
once by its plumage and appearance, 
the feathers, etc , vaiying with age to a con- 
siderable extent ; but for the ignorant, the 
safest test is to lift the bird by the lower beak, 
which, when they are young, will snap off short ; to 
which may be added the general principle that with all 
young birds the legs are smooth and the quill feathers 
[i soft. When in condition, the breast of a bird will feel 

hard and firm, and well covered with flesh. As a general rule, the 
hen birds are the tenderest and the juiciest. Another point to re- 
member when preparing game for cooking is that when cleaning them 
they should never be washed inside, but merely well wiped with a 
clean cloth. When the game is in such a state as to require washing 
to make it fit for the table, it is not fit for use. 

Woodcock, snipe, golden plover and landrail are not drawn, the 
tail being reckoned a delicacy. Such birds, moreover, should be 
trussed with. their heads left on, the same rule also being applied in 
many houses to the blackcock. It should be added, however, that 
golden plover is occasionally drawn ; but this is more a concession to 
private feeling than a deviation from a general rule. 

For birds which are served undrawn, the crouton is a necessity, 
and should be placed under the bird while cooking, to receive the 
gravy, etc., that exudes from the bird in the process. Sometimes hot 
buttered toast is used instead of the fried bread for this purpose, but 
many persons object to this on account of its extreme richness. 

Game of all kinds requires careful cooking, for, though it should, 
with few exceptions, never be underdone, it is ruined if overdone, as 
it dries, and consequently toughens very quickly. Wild duck, teal 
and pidgeon are the exceptions, and should be distinctly underdone 
rather than overdone. Whenever possible, game should be roasted 
at an open fire ; but where an oven is inevitable the birds should 
always be placed in the double roasting pan, with water between the 

149 



150 GAME. 

two pans, and extra care should be bestowed on the basting — a point 
frequently forgotten by cooks. Most game is improved, especially if 
cooked in the oven, by having a slice of fat bacon, cut in rows of 
diagonal slits, skewered over the breast, and, in the case of quail, or- 
tolans and other small birds, clever cooks and a vine-leaf to improve 
the flavor. 

Young pigeons have light-red flesh on the breast, and full, fresh- 
colored legs. When the legs are thin and the breast dark the birds 
are old. Fine game birds are always heavy for their size. A few 
feathers plucked from the inside of the legs, the flesh of freshly-killed 
birds, will be fat and fresh colored. If dark and discolored the bird 
has been hung a long time. The wings of good geese, ducks, pheas- 
ants and woodcock are tender to the touch ; the tips of the long wing 
feathers of partridges in young birds are round in old ones. Quail, 
snipe and small birds should have full tender breasts. 

Game should be kept no longer than beef or fowl. Both of these 
are better for being kept a short time. Only pronounced epicures 
insist upon the condition termed " high." If a bird or meat is to be 
dredged with flour, salt should be put on before it is cooked, but the 
rest of the seasoning is not to be added until it is taken from the fire. 

How to Cook Game. — As a rule, all dark fleshed birds, like 
duck and grouse, should be cooked about as rare as roast beef, so 
that the blood runs from the knife. Birds with white flesh, like part- 
ridge, should be as well done as a barnyard fowl. A simple rule for 
time, allows eighteen or twenty minutes roasting for either canvasback 
or redhead duck, fifteen minutes for teal, eighteen or twenty minutes 
for grouse, twelve or fifteen minutes for doe birds, ten minutes for 
either plover or woodcock, and eight or ten minutes for English snipe. 
Tender, plump quail require from fifteen to eighteen minutes, and the 
average plump partridge from thirty-five to forty minutes. This 
implies the briskest heat the oven can give. 

To Serve witli Game. — Currant or plum jelly, or spiced plums 
should be served with all kinds of feathered game, except turkey, 
which, like its civilized cousin, takes kindly to cranberry jelly. Celery 
is always in order with any kind of game, and a celery sauce is pre- 
ferred to a bread sauce by many. 

Bread Sauce for Game.— Boil up half a pint of milk with a 
small shallot stuck with a clove, and directly it comes to the boil, stir 



GAME. 151 

in 1 ounce of fresh butter, and one half ounce of fresh white bread 
crumbs, previously rubbed through a wire sieve, and let it all boil 
together for fifteen minutes. Add a couple of spoonfuls of good cream 
or new milk, boil it once more for five minutes, season to taste with 
a very little salt and white pepper ; lift out the shallot and clove, and 
serve in a hot tureen. 

Dressing for Broiled Game. — Mix an ounce of butter with about 
a teaspoonful of dry mustard, salt, a dust of cayenne pepper and a 
few drops of vinegar, or, if preferred, lemon juice. Score the flesh 
pretty deeply, coat it thickly with the above mixture, and broil over 
a clear fire. 

Venison. 

Venison is one of the most easily digested meats. It may be 
cooked after the same rules as mutton or beef It should be cooked 
rare, and served very hot, with currant jelly. The saddle or loin is 
the choicest cut for roasting or for steaks. Steaks are also cut from 
the leg. Venison may be roasted, broiled, stewed, etc., the same as 
beef. The trimmings should be boiled, to make a stock for the 
sauce. 

Haunch or Saddle of Venison. (English.) — Rub the surface 
with butter to soften it. (It should have hung about one week in a 
cool place). Cover it first with a large sheet of buttered paper, and 
over that place a covering of flour and water paste about one half 
inch thick, the whole covered with another greased paper fastened 
securely. Fifteen minutes to the pound is the rule followed where it 
is preferred rare. More time is required, according to the size, to 
have it well done. Pour a pint of boiling water around the meat and 
cover with another dripping-pan. The oven should be hot. After 
the first hour, baste thoroughly at short intervals, re-covering the pan 
after each time. Half an hour before dinner uncover the pan, remove 
the papers and paste, return to the oven, and baste with melted butter 
and a little lemon juice; dredge flour overthe whole and let it brown. 
Repeat the basting with butter two or three times during the half- 
hour, and take up on a heated dish. The plates should be heated 
also, as venison cools easily. Serve with currant jelly and the jelly 
sauce given before. A brown gravy can be made in the pan, and 
sent up with it, or poured under the joint on the platter. The bone 
can be decorated with cut paper if liked. 



152 GAME. 

Larded Haunch of Venison. — A saddle of venison is the best 
for roasting. Lard the venison with strips of firm, fat pork, and 
sprinkle over the whole salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Roast 
in a very hot oven, basting often, and it adds greatly to the flavor to 
use some claret in basting. Venison should be served rare and very 
hot. Some cooks refuse to use salt pork with venison, claiming that 
it injures the flavor, but where the meat is dry it is an improvement. 

Leg- of Venison. — A leg of venison that weighs 10 pounds will 
require 1}4 hours to roast. In this case it should be larded on one 
side, then be well seasoned with salt and pepper, covered with soft 
butter, placed on a rack in a pan and set in a very hot oven. No 
water should be put in the pan for the first 10 minutes, but when that 
time has passed there should be just enough to cover the bottom of 
the pan, and the venison should be basted with this and with salt, 
pepper and flour every 15 minutes. Some people prefer claret to the 
gravy in the pan for basting. The last basting should be with soft 
butter and a dredging of flour, that the surface of the meat may have 
a light, frothy appearance. The oven should be very hot the first 
half hour ; after that reduce the heat. 

Rabbits. 

Rabbit, Roasted. — Skin, clean, and let lie in some water for half 
an hour. Mince a slice of salt pork and mix with sufificient moist- 
ened bread crumbs to fill the cavity, seasoning with salt, pepper and 
sweet marjoram; add a little minced onion if liked. Stuff the rabbit 
and sew up. Cover with thin slices of salt pork, either bound on 
with cords, or fastened with wooden toothpicks. Pour a cup of water 
in the pan and bake 1 hour, basting frequently, adding a little lemon 
juice or vinegar to the drippings. Dredge with flour; brown and re- 
move from the oven. Serve on a hot platter, removing the slices of 
pork and garnishing the edge of the platter with them. Thicken the 
strained gravy with browned flour and season with butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice or a little vinegar, pepper and salt to taste. 
Let it boil up, then serve. If pork is not used in roasting, rub the 
rabbit with butter well before putting in the oven, and pour melted 
butter over it when served, garnishing with sliced lemons and parsley. 

Broiled Rabbits. — Skin, clean, and disjoint the rabbit, wipe dry, 
wrap in buttered letter paper, place in a double wire broiler and broil 



GAME. 153 

over a clear, brisk fire, turning often. Serve very hot, removing the 
papers. Some cooks let the joints of rabbit lie 2 or 3 hours in a mix- 
ture consisting of a little salad oil, 2 or 3 sprays of parsley, a sliced 
onion, a clove or two, a bay leaf, 2 or 3 peppercorns and a little salt. 
Turn occasionally, then drain, but do not dry the pieces; wrap each 
in a thin rasher of bacon, and then into pieces of buttered paper, with 
a little of the seasoning ; broil them over a clear, slow fire, and serve 
very hot in the papers. 

Rabbit, Fried. — Skin, disjoint and wipe the rabbit perfectly dry. 
Fry the same as chicken, parboiling unless perfectly tender. They 
may be dipped in flour before frying. 

Rabbit Pie. — Make the same as Chicken Pie, or Game Pie. Par- 
boil the rabbit if not tender. Four hard-boiled eggs cut in slices and 
scattered through the pie are an improvement. Bake an hour and 
cover the top with paper should it brown too fast. 

Rabbit Stew. — Prepare the same as venison and serve the same. 
Add minced onion to the gravy, if liked, and if necessary a little butter. 

Rabbits with Onions. — After the rabbit is cleaned, truss it, and 
put on to boil in cold water enough to cover it. Simmer until tender, 
take out and fry in boiling lard until a light brown. Keep it warm, 
while you fry six onions, sliced. When they are fried a nice brown, 
pour a little boiling water in the frying pan and stir in a tablespoonful 
of browned flour, wet with cold water. Season with pepper and salt; 
pour over the rabbit and serve. After the rabbit is boiled tender it 
may be served with a drawn butter sauce that has had 6 boiled onions 
put in it. The onions must first be boiled perfectly tender. Pour 
this sauce over the rabbit and serve. 

Panned Rabbit. — Singe and wipe a young rabbit carefully, cut 
into convenient pieces, place neatly in a baking pan, sprinkle over it 
a tablespoonful of chopped onions, same of chopped parsley and same 
of celery; melt a tablespoonful of butter, add to it a half cup of water 
or stock, and a half teaspoonful of pepper ; pour this over the rabbit, 
cover with another pan and bake in a moderate oven for 35 or 40 
minutes ; dust with salt and it is ready to serve. An ordinary brown 
gravy made in the pan may be sent up with it. Young rabbits have 
very tender meat and when properly cooked are almost as great a 
delicacy as chicken. In England they are found in every market and 
are a constant article of food, being raised especially for this purpose. 



154 GAME. 



Hare. 



Roast Hare. — Hare and rabbit are very much alike, the chief dif- 
ference being in the smaller size and shorter legs and ears of the 
rabbit. For roasting hare proceed in precisely the same manner as 
for rabbit (see directions). Serve with currant jelly. 

Larded Hare. — Bone a hare, lay it flat on a board and season 
with pepper, spices, and chopped parsley, spread a dressing over it 
(see Roast Rabbit). Roll tightly, cover with slices of bacon tied on. 
Put the bones into a stewpan with 2 bay leaves, a sliced onion, some 
parsley, and, if liked, 2 blades of mace and half pint of water or stock. 
Cover the bones with fat bacon, put in the hare, set on a slow fire to 
simmer for 2 hours. Serve the hare cold, garnished with parsley. 

Jug-ged Hare. — Two rabbits, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoonful 
of salt, half teaspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, 
2 large tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 cupfuls 
of water, 1 tablespoonful of any preferred catsup. Skin, clean, wash, 
disjoint, and roll in the flour. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when 
it gets hot put in the meat. Brown well on both sides, being careful 
not to burn. When the meat has been well browned, put it into a 
stew-pan, and put into the frying-pan such flour as remained after the 
meat was rolled in. Stir until the mixture gets smooth ; then add the 
water, and cook for 10 minutes. Pour this liquid over the meat in 
the stew-pan. Add the spice, salt, pepper, and the onion, uncut. 
Cover closely and simmer for an hour and a half; then add lemon 
juice and catsup. Arrange the rabbit on a warm platter, and strain 
the sauce over it. Serve with a dish of boiled rice. 

Stewed Hare. — Cut in pieces, put in a saucepan, barely covering 
with soup stock or clear broth. Add to this 1 large onion, chopped, 
a few blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce and the juice 
of half a lemon. Season with salt and pepper, cover closely and let 
stew 2 hours ; if necessary add a little more broth before removing 
from the fire. Arrange the meat in a soup tureen ; thicken the sauce 
with a teaspoonful of butter rolled in browned flour; pour into the 
dish through a sieve. 

Squirrels. 

Squirrel Stew. — Squirrels are cooked very much as rabbits, and 
any good rule for preparing them will apply to squirrels. For this 



GAME. 155 

stew cut up gray squirrels and put on the stove in cold water, add a 
little salt and soda, let it come nearly to boiling, then pour off and 
put in cold water again, adding as much sweet milk as there is water, 
and cook slowly till the meat is tender; then take out the meat and 
place in a spider with a generous amount of good butter and simmer 
or fry a little brown; to the butter add some fresh milk, pepper and 
salt, thicken with flour to make gravy ; cooked this way they have no 
strong, wild flavor. 

Squirrel Pie. — Clean one pair of squirrels and cut into small 
pieces. Wipe off with a damp cloth. Put into a stew-pan with two 
slices of salt pork and water to nearly cover. Cook until half done. 
Season it well and thicken the gravy. Pour into a deep dish, cover 
with pie-crust and bake 30 minutes. Squirrels may be fried, broiled, 
or stewed, like chickens or rabbits. 

Squirrel Pot-Pie. — Skin, clean and cut up two squirrels and make 
the pot-pie after any favored rule for chicken pot-pie. 

Frog's Legs. 

Fried Frog-'s Licg-s. — Wash them and turn boiling water on them, 
letting them stand 6 minutes. Dry them on a napkin. Beat the 
yolks of 3 eggs with a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne 
pepper. Add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Dip the legs in this, roll 
them in grated bread crumbs; shake off all that does not adhere; dip 
again in the egg and afterward in the crumbs and drop in hot fat. 
Parsley is an appropriate garnish, but slices of lemon may be used. 

Partridges. 

Roast Partridg-e. — To roast a partridge, clean (do not break the 
entrails), wash in water containing a little soda. If there are any shot 
cut them out carefully. Take narrow strips of fat pork 2 inches long 
and with a larding needle lard the breast. Tie the legs together, and 
sprinkle the bird with salt and pepper and rub with butter ; then dredge 
with flour. Place in a dripping pan with an onion cut in slices, and 
if you have it use some stock, if not water will do, and roast in a hot 
oven 40 minutes, basting frequently with the stock. When done place 
on a hot platter and serve as soon as possible. 

If a larding needle is not convenient, cover the breast of the bird 
with thin slices of pork, fastened on with wooden toothpicks. Make 



156 GAME. 

a gravy of the pan liquor, thickened with browned flour, adding water 
if necessary. They can be stuffed with any poultry dressing, if pre- 
pared, and, if wished, the pork may be omitted and butter only be 
used, basting frequently with butter and water. A pint of bread 
crumbs, fried in smoking hot butter, may be placed under the part- 
ridges. Have the platter hot. 

Broiled Partridges. — These are very fine broiled. Split down 
the back, place on a gridiron, inside down, cover with a baking tin, 
and broil slowly at first. Serve plain, or with a cream gravy. 

Pigeons. 

Pig-eon Pie. — Stuff 6 pigeons with a turkey dressing, first loosen- 
ing the joints, but not separating them, sew up and put in a stew pan 
with water enough to cover. Let cook until nearly tender. Then 
season with salt, pepper and butter. Thicken the gravy with flour, 
remove and cool. Butter a pudding dish, line the sides with a rich 
crust. Have ready 4 or 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Put a 
layer of egg and birds and gravy until the dish is full; cover with a 
crust, (have an opening for the escape of steam) and bake three- 
quarters of an hour. 

Pigeon Pie. — II. — Prepare the pigeons, cut each in pieces and 
parboil. Line a baking dish with rich paste and fill in with the 
pigeons, mixing in bits of salt pork. Season with 1 teaspoonful of 
parsley, and a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits. Dredge with 
flour, and pour in the water the birds were parboiled in. Cover with 
pie paste, having an opening for the escape of steam, and bake 1 hour. 

Pigeons Roasted. — Dress and stuff with bread crumbs seasoned 
with butter, salt and a little mace, adding 3 oysters to each bird ; 
sew up and baste frequently with melted butter; roast half an hour 
carefully. Some prefer the apple stuffing. Pigeons to be roasted 
should be tender. Lay them on the dish in a row. 

Stewed Pigeons. — Dress and stew with turkey or chicken dress- 
ing. An onion flavoring should be used, do not sew up. Fry 5 or 
more slices of salt pork in an iron kettle. When it begin to brown 
lay the pigeons all around in the fat, breast down, leaving the pork 
in, add enough hot water to partially cover them. Cover the kettle 
tightly and stew an hour or more until the birds are tender. Then 
turn off part of the gravy, and keep turning the birds in the re- 




"CHIRK TABLE-TALK BENEATH THE SHADOWING TREES." 

JEAN INGELOW 




QUEKN VICTORIAS LUNCH ROOM 



GAME. 157 

mainder until they brown nicely. Then heat the remaining gravy 
and turn over them, adding a little thyme and pepper. Keep turning 
until pigeons and gravy are brown. Take up the pigeons. Thicken 
the gravy with a little browned flour, and serve the pigeons with the 
gravy turned around them. Garnish with parsley. 

Pig-eon Bird's Nest. — Boil some yellow macaroni gently until it 
is quite swelled out and tender; then cut it in pieces the length of a 
finger and lay them on a dish like a straw nest. Truss pigeons with 
the heads on (having scalded and picked them clean), turn under 
the left wing, leave the icet on, and having stewed them arrange them 
as in a nest. Pour gravy over and serve. The nest may be made of 
boiled rice or bread cut in pieces the length of a finger and fried a 
nice brown in hot lard or butter seasoned with salt and pepper. Any 
small bird may be stewed or roasted and served in this way. 

Quail. 

Roast Quail. — Pick and sponge the bird carefully, singe and 
draw. Lard the breast thickly with strips of salt pork drawn through 
it with a larding needle ; or fasten very thin slices of the pork closely 
over the breast with wooden toothpicks. Truss the legs close to the 
body and tie, removing the string before sending to the table. Place 
in a baking pan, salt and dust with pepper. Baste with stock and 
bake in a quick oven 30 minutes. 

Quail on Toast. — Dress carefully, removing the feathers without 
scalding, singe. Split down the back, lay on the table and hit it a 
sharp blow, breaking it. This prevents the muscles from drawing 
up when cooking. Butter carefully, season with pepper and salt. 
Broil slowly, skin side down, for 20 minutes ; turn and broil on other 
side for a few minutes. Butter and serve on hot buttered toa.st, a 
quail, breast up, on each slice ; serve on a hot dish. Garnish with 
olives or currant jelly. 

Quail Pie. — Prepare according to directions for Pigeon Pie. 

Roast Quail with Bread. Sauce. — Pick and singe 6 quail, drawn 
carefully, cut off heads and feet, wipe and roast in a very hot oven, 
as soon as they begin to brown baste with a little melted butter. 
Turn once so that both sides will be browned equally, about 20 min- 
utes will cook the birds. Baste with the butter several times. Make 
the Bread-sauce for Game. Fry one-half pint of bread crumbs in 2 



158 GAME. 

tablespoonfuls of hot butter; dust with cayenne pepper and stir until 
a Hght brown. Put in a hot dish, lay the quail upon them, and send 
in to the table, serving the sauce in a separate dish. 

Stewed Pheasants. — Cut a roast pheasant into neat joints as for 
eating. Beat the liver fine with the back of a wooden spoon, add a 
wineglassful each of port wine and of water, and the juice of half a 
lemon. Slice an onion and divide it into rings, roll a lump of butter 
well in flour, and put all into a stewing pan. When it simmers stir 
well round without breaking the onion rings, then lay in the joints of 
pheasant. When thoroughly heated place the birds on a hot dish, 
surrounded with sippits of toast, on each of which a small block of 
red currant jelly has been laid. Strain the sauce around the bird, 
and arrange the rings of onions in a chain over the pheasant. Send 
to table with halved lemons. 

Woodcock Broiled. — Dress, split down the back and broil on a 
well buttered gridiron, cook slowly until a delicate brown. Season 
with salt, pepper and butter. Serve on buttered toast, half a bird on 
each slice. 

Woodcocks on Toast. — For 6 persons there will be required 6 
woodcocks, 6 slices of stale bread about 2 inches thick, half a pint of 
butter, half a teaspoonful of pepper and 1 teaspoonful of onion juice. 
Pluck, singe and draw the birds. Save the livers and hearts. Skin 
the heads and truss the birds, skewering the legs with the bills. Sea- 
son with 1^ teaspoonfuls of salt and half the pepper. Now rub soft 
butter over the breast, legs and sides. Place the birds on their backs 
in a dripping pan and at the proper time cook them for 12 minutes 
in a hot oven. Arrange them tastefully over the toast. Place in a 
hot dish and garnish the border with water cresses and quarters of 
lemon. Serve immediately. 

Game Pie. — Take about 2 dozen of woodcock, quail, snipe or 
other small birds. Split each one in half and put them into a sauce 
pan containing about a gallon of cold water, although beef broth or 
soup stock would be preferable. See that the fire is hot, and when 
the boiling point has been reached, carefully skim off all the scum 
from the surface, and put in for seasoning a little pepper and salt with 
mace and 1 bay leaf, adding half a pound slice of salt pork cut into 
squares, 2 small carrots and 1 onion. Boil until tender, being 
careful that there is enough broth to cover the game. Into another 



GAME. 159 

saucepan put 4 ounces of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls browned flour, 
mixing well and stirring into it a part of the broth or gravy so as to 
make a thin sauce. Strain off what broth remains in the first sauce- 
pan, removing therefrom the vegetables and spices to go with the 
sauce. Slice, and cut into dice shape, potatoes equal in quantity to 
tlie meat, and put in a deep baking dish ; put on the top crust of 
dough and bake in an oven that is not too hot. 

Prairie Chicken, Roasted. — Prepare as for " Roasted Pigeons." 
Omit oysters from the stuffing and add chopped parsley, or summer 
savory. Moisten the dressing with melted butter. Pour a very 
little water in the baking pan. Baste with melted butter. Cook 
1 hour. 

Broiled Prairie Chicken. — Prairie chicken may be split down 
the back and broiled like woodcock. 

Snipe. — Snipe are similiar to woodcock and may be served in the 
same manner. They require some less cooking. 

Plover. — Dress, wipe, not wash, season and lay each bird on a 
slice of buttered toast. Arrange them in a baking pan, dredge with 
flour, put in the oven and roast briskly 30 minutes, basting frequently 
with melted butter. A brown pan gravy is best for this. Snipe may 
also be cooked in this manner. 

Keed Birds. — Pick and draw carefully, salt and dredge with flour 
and roast with a quick fire 10 or 15 minutes. Butter the birds and 
serve on buttered toast, seasoning with pepper. An oyster dipped in 
melted butter and then in bread crumbs, may be put inside of each 
one before roasting. They may also be broiled same as pigeons and 
woodcock. 

Ortolans and Rail Birds. — Stuff and roast same as pigeons, or 
broil and serve on toast like quail. Ten minutes will cook them. 

Canvas-back Duck. — To prepare canvas-back ducks care must 
be taken to draw the trail without breaking the entrails. If this is 
accomplished, the ducks need not be washed, but simply wiped out 
with a soft dry cloth. Truss the head under the wing Then sprinkle 
them inside with white celery, chopped fine, and a little salt and allow 
them to cook briskly for 20 or 30 minutes. Serve hot, with thin 
slices of fried hominy and currant jelly. This bird requires no extra 
flavors to render it perfect. Make a gravy of the pan drippings, 
thickened with a little browned flour. 



160 GAME. 

Roast Wild Duck. — Parboil with an onion in each to remove the 
fishy flavor. Use a carrot unless there is to be onion in the dressing. 
Stuff with any of the dressings used for tame ducks and roast until 
tender, basting at first with melted butter and then with the gravy in 
the pan. Weaken the pan gravy with boiling water, thicken with 
browned flour and stir in 1 tablespoonful of currant jelly. Serve 
separately. Half an hour will answer for a young, tender duck. 

Koast Wild Duck (Western Style). — Dress immediately after 
killing. If cool weather, hang several days. Bake in a hot oven, 
letting it remain 5 or 10 minutes without basting to keep in the natu- 
ral juices, then baste frequently with butter and water. Bake about 
30 minutes. Serve immediately on a hot dish. Send in with the 
following sauce. 

Sauce. — Put in a small saucepan 1 tablespoonful each of Worces- 
tershire sauce and mushroom, or tomato catsup, a little salt and cay- 
enne pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Mix well and heat thor- 
oughly hot. Take from the fire and stir in a teaspoonful of made mus- 
tard. Serve at once in a separate dish. 

Small Birds Baked in Sweet Potatoes. —Have as many sweet 
potatoes of medium size as there are small birds. Boil them for 1 
hour. Have the birds plucked, drawn and washed. Season them 
with salt and a little pepper and rub soft butter over them. Pare the 
sweet potatoes and cut a thin slice from each end. Now, scoop out 
the center of the potato, making a cavity large enough to hold a bird. 
Season the potato with salt and spread soft butter over the surface. 
Place the birds in the potatoes, which should be set on end in a shal- 
low pan and in a hot oven for 15 minutes. Arrange the potatoes on 
a hot dish and garnish with parsley. Serve very hot. To have this 
dish in perfection, butter must be used generously. 




In selecting beef choose that of a fine 
smooth grain, of a bright red color and 
white fat. It should be firm to the touch 
and the suet should be dry and flaky. In old beef 
both flesh and fat will be coarser in fibre and darker, 
compared with young beef To tell whether it is fresh 
or not, press against it with the finger, and if it is elastic 
and resumes its place quickly, it is fresh ; if the dent made by the 
finger remains, or if it is slippery or wet, avoid it, for it is already in 
the first stages of decay and is unwholesome. The texture of good 
beef is smooth and close-grained, and when cold should appear 
marbled with fat. When it is very lean-looking, or stringy, or rough, 
it is too old. The fat should not be solid and hard like that of mut- 
ton, but should be flaky, and the suet fat should be so dry that it will 
crumble. When the fat is oily or dull in color, the beef is sure to be 
of bad quality. 

Few who enter a butcher's stall know that the parts nourished by 
muscular use secrete the flavor and juices. Take, for example, the 
neck and forequarter of a sheep or ox, which are among the cheaper 
cuts. As far as nutritious properties are concerned, they far surpass 
the tenderloin and other more expensive cuts. Broth made from the 
neck of mutton that has had muscular use has more flavor than that 
made from the ribs. The same is true also of the legs and wings of 
a fowl. 

The best roasting piece of beef, excepting the sirloin, is the first 
cut of the rib. The back of the rump is the cheapest for roasting, 
as the meat is all good and contains a small amount of bone. The 
aitch bone is the nicest for a stew. It will serve a small family for a 
roast, and then may be used for a stew. The flavor obtained by roast- 
ing adds much to the soup. The bones of a rib roast may be removed, 
the meat rolled and the bones saved for soup. 

The flank is used principally for corning, though some dealers sell 
a flank steak, which is a very cheap cut, but by scoring and seasoning 
11 161 



162 



MEATS. 



with salt, pepper and butter, it forms a juicy, nutritious dish. The 
flank can also be cut up for a stew, or soup. 

Steak is really in most demand, sirloin and porter-house being the 
choice cuts. In the round, the third cut is the juiciest and best steak. 
The round makes good braised beef, or pot-roast. The shank is 

utilized as a soup bone. 
The hock also for soup ; the 
rump to roast or boil. If 
the round steak is wished 
for broiling, purchase the 
upper round, but for Ham- 
burg steaks, bouillon, any- 
thing in which the meat is 
to be chopped before using, 
the lower round will do as 
well at a much less cost. In 
buying a roast of beef it is 
usually economy to get a 
good-sized one. The meat 
is better, and made-over 
dishes cost far less than a 
roast each day. 

Beef is considered the 
most generally useful meat 
for the family meals, and it 
is the most economical also. 
It can be obtained all the 
year, but is in perfection in 
the winterbecause the joints 
can then be hung long 
enough to become quite 
Joints of Beef. tender. In summer, wipe 

off any moisture which may arise (if it hangs but a night the joint 
will be improved), but do not wash meat for roasting unless quite 
necessary. If the flies have touched any part, rub it with a cloth 
dipped in vinegar, then dry it and sprinkle with flour. The lean of 
good beef is bright in color, and the fat whitish and firm; very lean 
beef is always inferJor. while, if too fat, it is far from economical. 




MEATS. 163 

Ox beef is the best of all; the flesh is smoothly grained, and will 
rise when pressed with the finger in a young animal. Heifer beef is 
smaller and better suited for small families ; the meat is somewhat 
paler, and closer in the grain. Bull beef is dark in color, with little 
fat, a coarse grain, and a strong smell, and should never be chosen. 
Butchers in good localities do not, however, expose it for sale. Very 
rank smelling, highly colored, and greasy looking fat is indicative of 
oil-cake feeding, and although not necessarily unwholesome, it is far 
from economical, and the flavor is not liked by many people. Beef 
is thus divided : — 1. sirloin, 2. top or aitch bone, 3. rump, 4. buttock 
or round, 5. mouse buttock, 6. veiny piece, 7. thick flank, 8. thin flank, 
9. leg, 10. fore rib (5 ribs), 11. middle rib (4 ribs), 12. chuck rib (3 ribs), 
13. shoulder, 14. brisket, 15. clod, 16. sticking, 17. shin, 18. cheeks 
or head. 

Veal. — Veal is considered best when the animal is from 2 to 3 or 
4 months old. The flesh of the bull-calf is most suitable for joints, 
being firmer in grain, and fuller in flavor, but the cow-calf is whiter, 
and therefore preferred for many dishes ; the fillet, too, is esteemed 
on account of the udder, which is largely used for force-meat, particu- 
larly by French cooks. 

In choosing veal, look out for a nice colored flesh, free from bruises, 
and the fat of a pinkish white ; a small kidney, well surrounded by 
fat, proves good condition. The suet in the region of the kidney 
should be sweet to the smell, and firm to the touch, with no spots or 
blemishes ; the same remarks apply to the sweetbread. Veal has a 
tendency to turn very quickly, and is most unwholesome if the least 
tainted; it should not be kept more than a day or two in hot weather, 
though, if eaten quite fresh, it is apt to be tough. To assist it in 
keeping, the pipe should be taken from the loin, the skirt taken from 
the breast, and the inside wiped and floured. It is a good plan to 
put it in boiling water for a few minutes, then in cold, until it is cool; 
dry it, and hang it in the coolest part of the house until wanted. 

With regard to the digestibility of veal, the opinion amongst 
medical and other authorities seems to be almost universal, that the 
suffering sometimes caused by it is due, for the most part, to its highly 
gelatinous nature, as this renders mastication difficult ; and there seems 
good reason for the belief, when one remembers that many people can 
eat braised or stewed veal without discomfort, who suffer from a meal 



164 



MEATS. 



of roast veal, particularly if eaten cold. At any rate there seems no 
reason to think that there is anything in the composition of the flesh 
itself which should give rise to suffering, where it can be perfectly 
masticated. Here, as elsewhere, each must be a law unto himself. 

The annexed diagram shows the usual method of cutting up a calf: 
1. the loin, 2. the chump(consistingof the rump and hock bone, 3. the 

fillet, 4. the hind-knuckle, 
5. the fore-knuckle, 6 and 7. 
the neck, 8. the shoulder, 
9 and 10. the breast. To 
these must be added the 
head and feet, and the pluck, 
which consists of the heart, 
liver, lights, milt, skirt, nut, 
and the sweetbreads ; of the 
latter there are two, one 
from the throat, and the 
other called the heart sweet- 
bread, the larger and dearer, 
if sold alone. 

We would again urge 
the importance of long, slow 
cooking. A joint of veal, 
with the slightest appear- 
ance of rawness, will prove 
unwholesome ; it should be 
of an uniform whiteness 
right through to the bone ; 
and, in order that the color 
Joints of Veal. j^^y ]^q preserved, veal 

should never be laid upon a dish before cooking for any length of 
time ; the very pressure causes, not only discoloration, but taint. This 
may be said to an extent of all meat, but especially emphasized in 
the case of veal. 

The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is 
obtained, is that of sheep of from three to six years old, and which 
have been fed on dry sweet pastures. The flesh of sheep which have 
been reared on farms near the sea-coast is also sweet and wholesome ; 




MEATS. 



165 



the saline particles abounding in such situations impart both firmness 
and a fine flavor. To suit the palate of an epicure, a sheep should 
never be killed earlier than its fifth year, at which age the mutton 
will be found firm and succulent, and full of the richest gravy. This 
is, however, not easily obtained at the present time. 

To ascertain the age of mutton the following directions may be 
given : — Observe the color of breast-bones when a sheep is dressed, 
that is, where the breast-bone is separated. In a 
lamb, or before the sheep is one year old, it will 
be quite red ; from one to two years old, the upper 
and lower bones will be changing to white, and 
a small circle of white will appear round the edge 
of the other bones, and the middle part of the 
breast-bone will yet continue red ; at three years 
old, a very small streak of white will be seen in 
the middle of the four middle bones, and the 
others will be white ; and at four years old, all 
the breast-bones will be of a white or gristly color. 

Wether mutton is the best ; although it is often 
easier to buy ewe mutton of a mature age, it is 
inferior, and sells at a lower price. Ram mutton 
is to be avoided when very strong and coarse, and 
if the fat is of a deep yellow. 

Mutton should be fairly fat, and the fat should 
be firm. Butchers complain sometimes (and with 
reason) of the inconsistency of some customers 
in their demands for the best meat, without fat ! 
How can they possibly get it ? The small breeds 
will best suit such people, and it is worth every- 
one's while to give the preference to small mutton 
generally — /. e. meat with small bones ; they usually indicate a good 
breed ; whereas, large bones are associated with coarseness of fibre 
and poorer flavor. The lean ought to be rich in color, and not give 
out much moisture ; flabbiness and clamminess always prove that the 
meat is inferior. 

Mutton is cut up as shown in the figure. 1. The leg ; 2. The 
loin ; 3. Best end of loin ; 4. Neck, best end ; 5. Neck, scrag end ; 
6. Shoulder; 7. Breast. Besides these, there are the head and feet, 




Joints of Mutton. 



166 



MEATS. 




Lamb Divided into Joints. 



heart, liver, and other internal organs, all treated under various 
headings. 

House Lanib (by which is meant lamb born in the middle of 
winter, reared under shelter, and fed, in a great measure, upon milk) 
is considered a great delicacy. It may be obtained from Christmas 
to April 1st. Then grass lamb, or lamb brought up out of doors, 
and feed upon grass, comes into season. Like all young animals, 
lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome. 
Lamb is usually cut into quarters, and of these the fore-quarter, which 

consists of the shoulder (3), the 
breast (5), and the neck (4), is con- 
sidered by many the best. It should 
be cooked fresh, and its quality may 
be tested by the appearance of the 
vein of the neck, which should be 
ruddy or of a bluish color. If green, 
it is not good. It is generally 
roasted, though in very young lamb, the leg, which is frequently 
served by itself, and makes a useful and excellent joint, may be boiled 
and sent to the table with a suitable sauce. The hind-quarter, consist- 
ing of the leg (1) and loin (2), is better for hanging two or three days. 
As, however, lamb will not keep well in unfavorable weather, or 
for any length of time, it should be examined daily, and the moisture 
carefully wiped from the joints. In order to ascertain whether or 
not it is fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney. Any 
taint may be easily discovered by the smell. The fat of lamb should 
be firm and light, the lean clear and also firm, especially the knuckle. 
If the fat be yellow, and lean flabby and red, the lamb is of inferior 
quality, and will not keep. Where economy is a consideration, lamb 
should not be bought before it is five months old. 

When lamb becomes large enough, the quarters are sub-divided 
into joints. The leg is the most profitable for a family, but the 
shoulder is very delicious in flavor. The loin makes a most excellent 
roast while the neck and breast may be cooked in various ways, all 
of them appetizing. The head, sweetbread, and fry are much esteemed, 
and furnish many dishes of a dainty kind. 

Pork. — This is firm, with clear, white skin. The lean, a pale 
red, and the fat pure white. Spare ribs and loin are best roastinr; 



MEATS. 



167 



pieces. Hams and shoulders are smoked. The less choice pieces 
pickled, and the remainder used for sausage, while the head and feet 
are utilized respectively as head cheese and souse. Never buy a ham 
because it is cheap. Do not select too lean a joint. The fat of a 
ham is often considered so much waste weight ; so it may be in many 
families. But a well-fed and quickly fattened hog will furnish tender, 
juicy and fine-flavored meat. Bear this in mind, 
and be willing to lose a little extra fat for gain in 
the superior qualities. Let the joint be well- 
rounded and plump and see that the skin is thin 
and pliable. Choose freshly cured hams if pos- 
sible. 

The size of a ham has much to do with the 
way in which it should be served. A whole ham 
will boil more satisfactorily than a part of it. 
For broiling or frying never use a ham of less 
than fourteen pounds, and one weighing fifteen 
or sixteen is better still for this purpose. Only 
the center of such a ham, however, should be 
sliced. Take off at least two inches from the 
large end of the ham in one cut. Then slice up 
the remainder as it is needed, until the upper 
joint in the bone is reached. This shank, with 
the other end first taken off, may be used to 
advantage. To judge the state of a ham, plunge 
a knife into it to the bone. If particles of meat 
adhere to it, or if the odor is bad, the ham is 
not good. A short, thick ham should be pre- 
ferred. Joints of Pork. 

Pork, more than any meat, must be chosen with the greatest care. 
The pig, from its habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if killed 
and eaten in an unhealthy state, those who partake of it may pay 
dearly for the indulgence. Dairy-fed pork is best, and it is safest to 
buy it direct from a farm, or from a reliable dealer. Pork is in 
season only in cold weather, and should be rigidly avoided in sum- 
mer; it is then positively dangerous. The fat should be firm, and 
the lean delicate in color, and fine in the grain ; the skin should be 
delicate. If the skin is thick, the pig was old ; if clammy, it proves 




168 MEATS. 

staleness. Kernels and discolorations in the fat prove an unhealthy- 
condition at the time of billing. 

Pork cannot be kept long in the fresh state, but unless hung for 
a short time it will be hard. All the internal organs cannot be too 
fresh when eaten. We would specially warn the inexperienced against 
what is known in the trade as "offal-fed pork." It is, however, never 
seen in good localities, and no butcher with a reputation to maintain 
deals in it. It can be told by its dark color, strong smell, and unplea- 
sant flavor. No meat requires more care in cooking than pork: the 
least portion underdone is more than unwholesome, and it should 
be withheld from persons of weak digestion, as well as invalids 
generally. A pig is thus divided: 1. Spare rib; 2. Hand; 3. Belly; 
4, Fore loin ; 5. Hind loin ; 6. Leg. The chine is the neck whole. 

Bacon. — In a pig of fair size, the chine, which is excellent for 
roasting or boiling, is cut from between the sides or flitches as shown 

in the diagram; but if the pig 
is small, the flitches should be 
divided down the chine. The 
shoulders may be left attached 
to the sides, or separated, ac- 
cording to the size of the pig. 
The legs are made into hams. 
Diagram of Bacon Pig. ^^^ ^^g sides form what is 

bacon proper. The head maybe served in various ways. If divided, 
the halves are called cheeks ; or, if again cut through, the top part 
is termed eye-piece, and the lower one chap, or chawl. These are 
generally salted and boiled. The inner fat is made into lard. The 
trimmings are converted into Sausages, Pies, etc. A. Shows the 
chine ; b. The head ; c. The leg ; d. The flitch ; e. The shoulder. 

Venison. — Venison, like mutton, is better when of mature age. 
It must be kept until in the right state for table, and much care is 
needed to cook it properly ; but when properly dressed, and served 
very hot, with plenty of good gravy, it is in every respect worthy of 
the high estimation in which it is held by epicures. 

There are three kinds of venison. Of these the fallow deer is 
much the best. Buck venison, which is in season from June to the 
end of September, is finer than doe venison, which is in season from 
October to December. Neither should be dressed at any other time 




MEATS. 



169 




of the year. The haunch is the prime joint, though the neck and 
shoulder are much approved, and may be dressed in various ways. 
As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool dry larder, dried 
with a cloth, and hung in an airy 
place. Dry ginger and pepper should 
be dusted over it to keep ofif the flies. 

It should be examined and care- 
fully wiped every day, or twice a day 
in unfavorable weather, and it should 
be kept as long as it is possible to 
preserve it untainted. Excepting in 
very mild weather, it will keep a fort- 
night with care. In order to ascer- 
tain its condition, run a skewer close 
to the bone, and from this judge of the 
sweetness of the venison. If it should 
inadvertently become musty, first Venison. 

wash it with lukewarm water, and afterwards with tepid milk and 
water, then dry it very thoroughly. The lean of venison should be 
dark aiul fine in the grain ; the fat, of which there should be a good 
supply, ought to be firm, white and clear. To ascertain the age, the 
cleft of the hoof, which is always left on, must be examined. If very 
smooth and small, the animal is young. If rough and large, it proves 
age. Venison is cut up as shown in figure: 1. shoulder; 2. fore- 
loin ; 3. haunch or loin ; 4. breast ; 5. scrog or neck. 

Hints on Cooking- Meats. — When cutting meat to cook, always 
cut across the grain of the muscle. Never wash fresh meat before 
roasting ; scrape it, if necessary to clean it, then wipe with a cloth 
damped with vinegar. If the meat is in any way discolored, cut that 
part away and wash afterwards with vinegar. Never put meat directly 
on the ice; put it in a vessel on the ice; water draws out the juices. 
If you baste roast meats, do not use salt in the basting ; salt the meat 
when removed from the oven. Salt and season boiling meats while 
cooking. Never salt and pepper broiling meats while cooking. Sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and butter after removing from the gridiron. 
An ordinary pan is good for broiling ; heat very hot ; use no fat of 
any kind ; put the meat flat on the pan, turn rapidly and often, and 
you will find a " pan broil " very good ; season when done. 



170 MEATS. 

How to Use Glace. — Glace is merely very strong gravy boiled 
down until it is of the consistency of liquid jelly; when it is of this 
thickness pour it from the sauce-pan at once or it will burn ; when it 
is required for use stand the jar in which it is kept in a pan of boiling 
water, and melt it gently ; to glace cutlets or meats, lay it on with a 
brush until it forms a varnish. 

To broil meat well the gridiron must be hot before the meat is put 
on, the meat should be turned rapidly in order to produce an equal 
effect, but the meat should not be punctured with a fork. If it is 
necessary to use a fork, insert it in the fat. In this way less of the 
juice of the meat escapes. In boiling meat it is important to keep 
the water constantly boiling, otherwise the meat will absorb the water; 
add boiling water when needed ; remove the scum when it begins to 
boil ; allow 20 minutes for boiling for each pound of meat (fresh). 
The more gently meat boils the more tender it will be. Salt meat 
should be put into cold water and boiled slow!)' ; a red pepper dropped 
into the water will prevent the rising of an unpleasant odor. Fresh 
meat, unless for soup, should be put into boiling water and be allowed 
to cook very gently ; no salt to be added until nearly done. 

Roasts. — In roasting, put into a hot oven and baste frequently. 
In roasting beef it is necessary' to have a brisk fire; baste often; 12 
minutes is required for every pound of beef ; season when nearly done. 
The orthodox rule for the cooking of meat, fish or fowl, is to allow a 
quarter of an hour to every pound ; yet this recipe needs to be mixed 
with brains. Some families like rare, others well-done meats. If the 
oven is hot, 20 minutes for each pound will usually insure a well-done 
roast. The oven should be hottest when the meat is first put in, that 
the surface may be quickly seared and the pores of the meat sealed, 
thereby confining the natural juices. An oven that is too hot to hold 
the hand in for even a moment is right to receive the meat. It is 
well to put the roast in a dry pan, and place under it a few pieces of 
suet. Omit the water that is so often used, as this has a tendency to 
soften the outside of the meat, by generating steam and preventing 
crispness. Baste frequently with its own drippings which flow from 
the meat when partly cooked. 

Full-grown and mature meats, such as beef and mutton, are best 
with the red gravy oozing from them ; while immature, or white 
meats, such as lamb, veal, pork, etc., are absolutely dangerous unless 



MEATS. 171 

done through to the bone. A good rule is to allow 15 to 20 minutes, 
according to the taste of the family, for the cooking of every pound 
of beef and mutton ; 18 to 20 minutes for the cooking of every pound 
of pork, veal, lamb, ham, fish, and every kind of fowl. If there be 
doubt, run the blade of a knife into the bone, and the meat carefully 
lifted and examined. This will be found an infallible test. It is quite 
right that next to the bone beef and mutton should be red and juicy, 
but if the beef be blue or the mutton has that strange, raw look pecu- 
liar to mutton that has just felt the heat of the fire, the joint needs a 
little more cooking. White meats should be white, even to the bone, 
with the exception, perhaps, of lamb, which many people prefer with 
a little pinky juice oozing through. Lamb, veal and pork should be 
cooked slower than beef, with a more moderate fire. 

Broiling-. — The rules for roasting meat apply to broiling, except 
that instead of cooking it in the oven it is to be quickly browned first 
on one side and then on the other, over a hot fire, and removed a little 
from the fire to finish cooking. Meat an inch thick will broil in 
about 20 minutes. A beefsteak cut an inch thick will be cooked rare 
in 10 minutes. A mutton chop cut three-fourths of an inch thick 
will cook in 8 minutes. Veal and pork must be broiled slowly and 
for a long time. There should not be a trace of pink in the fibers 
when the meat is done. The chops should not be cut more than half 
an inch thick. They will be well done with 12 minutes' cooking. 
The rule for finding out whether they are sufficiently cooked by ex- 
amining the meat next the bone holds good for them also. 

Salt Meats. — Salt meats are not so easily tested as fresh meats, 
yet even here look at the bone. Beware of allowing the meat to 
cook so long that it raises itself from the bones, as it were; for then it 
is what is graphically known as being " done to rags. " In boiling, 
salt meats should be covered with cold water and require 30 minutes 
slow boiling to each pound, counting from the time the water begins 
to boil. If the meat is very salt, pour off the first water and put in 
another of boiling water, or soak over night in cold water. After 
meat begins to boil it should not cease for a moment, and should be 
replenished from a boiling teakettle. 

Tough Meat is made tender by adding a little vinegar to the 
water in which it is boiled. Tough steak may have a little vinegar 
poured over it and be allowed to stand a short time. Wipe dry and 




172 MEATS. 

cook. The improvement is marked. Steak may also be rubbed with 
baking-soda the night before, washed off next morning, wiped dry and 
cooked as desired. It will be much more tender. Fowls and legs 

of mutton may be 

treated in the same 

way. A small lump of 

baking-soda dropped 

Steak Hammer. in with boiling meat 

or fowl will assist in making it more tender. The soda or vinegar 

will also remove any slight taint about the meat. 

Tainted Meat maybe freshened by sprinkling charcoal over it, or 
boiling it with a lump of charcoal in the water. Game and dressed 
fowls can be sweetened by lumps of charcoal placed in the interior. 

Beef. 

Boast Beef. — Trim the meat, wipe it with a damp cloth ; never 
wash it ; put it on a beef-steak griddle over hot coals until it is seared 
all over; then put it in the oven to finish. For a 3-pound roast 30 
minutes should be long enough ; much depends upon the shape of 
meat and the heat of the oven ; never baste meat or fowls with any- 
thing but clear fat-drippings or butter; never put a fork into any 
meat or fowl of any kind until carving; the juice follows the fork, as 
you take it out ; the meat loses its flavor and richness ; for turning 
meat use clean cloths, or wooden paddles ; season with salt and pep- 
per. Lay a few bits of suet in the pan and rest the meat on them. 
Dredge once or twice with flour. When done take part out of the 
oven, place meat on a dish, pour hot water in the pan, about 1 cup- 
ful, have some flour dissolved in cold water, pour into the pan, allow 
to boil a few minutes, take up and strain. Browned flour makes the 
gravy more palatable in appearance. 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. — A piece of from 7 to 
10 pounds can be used most advantageously for a family of six. 
Have a trivet or stand fitting the roasting-pan, and put the meat on 
it in a very hot oven, with a cupful of boiling water, that the outside 
may sear over at once, and thus retain the juices. Dredge with flour 
after the first fifteen minutes and sprinkle on a teaspoonful of salt and 
a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Baste often, with the drippings 
in the pan, and dredge at least once more with flour, shaking it lightly 



MEATS. 173 

from a flour-shaker. Three-quarters of an hour before the beef is 
done make the pudding as below. If no stand is handy, Hft the meat 
upon 3 or 4 muffin rings. 

Yorksliire Pudding-. — One egg, 1 cupful milk, salt, a half tea- 
spoonful baking-powder, flour enough to make a thin batter. Half 
an hour before the roast is done pour this into the pan beneath the 
roast. If the pudding is to be baked separately from the roast, which 
is sometimes more convenient, have a dish hot and put in two or three 
spoonfuls of the dripping from the pan into the dish; pour the pud- 
ding in and bake about 10 minutes in a quick oven: pouring a spoon- 
ful or two of gravy over it while cooking improves it. Cut it in 
squares and serve on the platter with the roast. If water is used in- 
stead of milk in the pudding, add a tablespoonful of shortening. 

Fillet of Beef. — (This is the tenderloin, although the surloin is 
sometimes used.) Trim off fat, tough skin, etc., and skewer into 
shape (round). Lard with salt pork or cover with strips of pork, salt. 
Dredge well with salt, pepper and flour and put without water into a 
small pan. Place in a hot oven 30 minutes ; in lower part 10, and 
then on upper grate. Serve with mushroom sauce or with potato 
balls. The shape of the fillet is such that the time required for cook- 
ing is the same, whether it weigh 2 or 6 pounds. After the first half 
hour pour a cupful of water in the pan. Baste frequently. Garnish 
with jelly. 

Rib Roast, Stuffed. — Have the bones removed from the roast, 
flatten the meat and season well. Make a rich turkey dressing 
moistened with egg. Pour the dressing into frying-pan, with a little 
melted butter, and stir until it thickens. Spread over the meat. Roll, 
tie and bake. A delicious dish. Nice cold. Press and slice for 
lunch or tea. 

Boston Roast. — Buy what is called a Boston roast or chuck 
roast. Cut from the shoulder or the round steak. Heat a frying-pan 
smoking hot, put in the roast, and brown or sear it on all sides ; this 
closes the pores and retains the juices. When browned, season with 
salt and pepper ; bake in a hot oven one hour. 

Broiled Steak. — Porter-house and sirloin steaks are the only ones 
that can be thoroughly recommended for broiling, and to broil either 
of them properly requires a double broiler and a good clear fire. Cut 
the steak about three-fourths of an inch thick and trim it free from fat 



174 



MEATS. 




If it is a porter-house, remove the tough end and convert it into Ham- 
burg steaks for luncheon or tea. Heat the broiler and rub lightly with 
good butter. Put the steak in the broiler and cook over a clear fire, 
turning about once in 10 or 12 minutes. Remove the steak to a hot 
platter, season with salt and pepper, and rub 1 teaspoonful of butter 

over each side. 
Garnish with 
water-cress 
and serve im- 
mediately. If 
the fire is not 
Family Meat Sav7. clear, sprinkle 

a handful of charcoal over the coals. A teaspoonfid of melted butter 
mixed with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice and sprinkled over the broil- 
ing steak will give a fine fl^ivor. Turn the steak by a fork put through 
the fat on the edge, not through the lean. If a double broiler is 
used there is no necessity for a fork. 

Beefsteak with Oyster Sauce. — Fry a juicy steak. Pour sufficient 
water into the pan for gravy. Thicken with browned flour ; add butter 
if necessary, and season. Add a portion of oyster liquor to the 
above brown gravy, making a delicious oyster sauce. Pour this over 
the steak. Garnish with sliced lemon and then serve with baked 
potatoes. 

Stewed Steak with Oysters. — 2 pounds of rump-steak, 1 pint of 
oysters, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful lemon-juice, 3 table- 
spoonfuls butter, 1 cupful flour. Salt and pepper to taste. Turn the 
cup of water over the oysters and drain off into a stew-pan. Put this 
liquor on to heat. When it boils skim and set back. Put the butter 
in a frying-pan, and when hot put in the steak. Cook 10 minutes, 
take up and stir the flour into the butter remaining in the pan. Stir 
until brown, add the oyster liquor, and boil a minute. Season with 
salt and pepper. Put back the steak, cover the pan, and simmer half 
an hour, or until the steak seems tender. Then add the oysters and 
lemon-juice. Boil 1 minute. Serve on a hot dish. 

Braised Beefsteak. — Two pounds of the tough part of the 
round, 1 onion, 1 clove, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful corn- 
starch. Dredge the meat well with salt, pepper and flour. Cut the 
onioii into thin slices, which put in a small sauce-pan or baking-pan ; 



MEATS. 175 

and upon them lay the meat, covering closely. Place in rather cool 
oven and cook one-half hour; then add boiling water and the clove. 
Cover and return to oven. Cook very slowly for 2^ hours, basting 
with gravy in the pan and dredging with salt, pepper, and flour 6 times 
while cooking. Take up the meat, mix corn-starch with a little cold 
water and stir into the gravy. Cook on top of stove 4 minutes. 
Strain over meat and serve. 

Spanish Steak. — Take round or flank steak ; put in dripping-pan; 
slice enough onions to cover and partly cook them in a little water ; 
drain, and spread onions on steak, spread one-half can tomatoes on 
top of onions, season well with pepper and salt, then sprinkle over all 
a thin layer of grated cheese. Put in oven and bake half an hour. 

Beefsteak witli Mushroom Sauce. — Broil a steak, put on a hot 
platter, and serve with the following sauce poured over it. Sauce: 
Put 1 pint of peeled mushrooms into a small sauce-pan with a few 
slices of fat bacon, or a lump of butter; brown until they stick to the 
pan, but be careful not to scorch. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour. Add 
a pint of broth or soup stock. Let simmer a few minutes. Add a 
little lemon-juice, if liked. Pour over the hot steak and serve at once. 

Beefsteak a la Maitre d'Holel. — Broil a sirloin or porterhouse 
steak. Serve on a hot platter with a piece of Maitre d'Hotel butter 
melting upon it. 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter. — Fresh butter worked up with chopped 
scalded parsley, lemon-juice, and pepper and salt. Serve the steak with 
a little of this under it on the hot platter, and a piece on the top where 
it will melt. Garnish the platter with potato balls or pufls. 

Hamburg Steak. — Have 1 pound of round, or flank steak 
chopped fine. Chop with it 1 medium-sized onion. Pepper and salt 
to taste; make in cakes and fry in a hot pan. If the meat is juicy, 
no fat will be needed, otherwise use a little suet or butter. Fry quickly 
and serve; pour over it the juice of the meat. Good hot or cold. 

Beefsteak Pie (French Style.) — Take a nice piece of beefsteak, 
rump or sirloin, cut in small pieces, slice also a little raw ham; put 
both in a frying-pan, with some butter and small quantity chopped 
onions ; let them simmer together a short time on the fire or in the 
oven; add a little flour and enough .-itock to make sauce; salt, pep- 
per, chopped parsley and a little Worcestershire sauce as seasoning; 
add also a few sliced potatoes, and cook together for about 20 min- 



176 MEATS. 

utes ; put this into a pie-dish, with a few sHces of hard-boiled eggs 
on the top, and cover with a layer of common paste. Bake from 
15 to 20 minutes in a well heated oven. All dark meat pies can be 
treated precisely the same way. If poultry, leave the potatoes out. 
Water may be used if soup stock is not handy, in which case add 
bits of butter or finely minced suet. 

Beefsteak Pudding'. — Make a plain crust, or a suet crust, of 
flour, finely chopped suet and water. Line a pudding dish or basin 
with this. Cut up a couple pounds of rump or flank steak in bits ; 
half pound of beef kidney is an improvement, cut up also. Fill the 
basin in layers seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, and if liked, 
a little chopped onion; a very little chopped bacon is an addition. 
Cover with a layer of crust, and put the basin in a steamer and steam 
1 or 2 hours according to size. When served open the top a little 
and put in small lump of butter. 

Stewed Beef, or Other Meats. — Stewed meat properly prepared 
is delicious. To begin by putting the meat on to cook in cold water 
and thickening it afterward will never make a good stew. It should 
be commenced in gravy or stock, and butter or suet should always 
be used for this rather than lard. Melt a small piece of butter and 
gradually stir in a little flour until it is thoroughly combined; now 
add hot water gradually, stirring all the time until a smooth, even 
consistency is reached. Then put in the meat to be stewed. If vege- 
tables are to be used, add in time for them to be done when the meat 
is thoroughly cooked, afterward add the condiments and flavoring 
as required. Keep the vessel well closed, opening the lid only when 
absolutely necessary and shake the stew now and then, in preference 
to stirring it with a spoon. 

Another form of stew is made by putting butter or fat in a sauce- 
pan, heating it thoroughly and putting pieces of meat in to brown 
the outside with the hot fat. Then add hot water and thicken slightly. 
The stew may be either white or brown according to the way the fat 
is prepared. For white stews butter only should be used and melted 
only just enough to retain a light color before adding flour and 
the water. For brown stews butter or suet or drippings may be 
used and be allowed to get a deep color before adding the water. 

Stuffed Flank. — The flank is the cheapest part of a beef, but if 
neatly trimmed, spread with a dressing made from bread crumbs, a 



MEATS. 177 

bit of butter, minced onion, or sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and enough 
hot water to moisten, rolled up tightly, closely corded and roasted, 
it makes a palatable dinner dish. There may be served with it a 
gravy, made by adding a cup of hot water to the drippings in the 
pan. When it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful of flour, which has 
been smoothed in a little cold water, add to it salt, pepper, and a scant 
teaspoonful of sugar. Stir thoroughly, to secure the richness that 
may have browned to the pan, cook perhaps 5 minutes and serve. 

Rolled Flank. — A piece of the flank may be rolled and corded 
without the addition of the dressing, covered with boiling water, and 
cooked until tender. When cold it is nice to slice and serve for tea. 
It will be in pink and white rounds, somewhat resembling a jelly roll. 

Cape Cod Stew. — Take fresh beef flank and cut in pieces 4 or 5 
inches square ; put on to cook in a little water with salt and 1 good- 
sized onion ; be careful not to burn; cook 3 or 4 hours; then cut a 
turnip in slices and lay on top, and parsnips whole if you like them; 
allow about 1 hour for them; after cooking half an hour, cut potatoes 
once and put in, and after cooking 10 minutes put dumplings on top, 
made of 1 pint of flour, salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of yeast-powder ; mix 
soft with cold water ; cook 20 minutes ; take up on separate dishes, 
and thicken the gravy with a little flour or corn-starch ; serve in a 
gravy-boat. This is first-class and inexpensive. 

Virginia Spiced Beef. — Virginia has retained many of the old 
English dishes she brought with her, and her spiced beef is the lineal 
descendant of the mighty round of which Sir Walter Scott loves to 
tell, the rule given being one that is guaranteed to have been the 
authority in one family since the days of burly King Harry VIII. 

For 15 pounds of the thick flank or rump of beef allow half a pound 
of brown sugar, 1 ounce of saltpetre, quarter of a pound of allspice 
pounded, and 1 pound of common salt. Rub the sugar well into the 
beef, and let it lie for 12 hours ; then rub in both saltpetre and allspice, 
and let it stand another 12 hours, and last, rub in the salt. Leave it 
in the liquor which forms for a fortnight, turning it daily. Soak 1 
hour in water, dry and cover with a paste made of flour and water 
thick enough to hold well. Bake in a steady oven for 5 hours. At 
the end of this time remove the paste and serve either hot or cold, 
though such a round is usually eaten cold, cut in very thin slices the 
whole face of the round. A favorite dish-with hunters. Still another 
12 




178 MEATS. 

method is to sew the round in a cloth, put in boiling water, and boil 
for 4 hours ; then take off the cloth, and put the round under a heavy- 
weight until cold. Either way is excellent, and the round will keep 
easily for a week. 

Beef a la Mode. — Take a piece of the rump and into deep incis- 
ions made therein put little thin squares of pork that have been rolled 
in a mixed seasoning of pepper, salt and spices, such as a little cloves 

and grated nutmeg. Put in a stewpan 
containing sliced onions, carrots, lemon, a 
ba)'-leaf and pieces of pork, lay the meat, 
putting over it a piece of bread crust ; 
Family Cleaver. over all pour a little vinegar, and enough 

water to about half cover the meat. Cook until the meat becomes 
tender, being careful to keep the dish tightly covered. If a larding- 
needle is handy use that to draw long strips of pork through the beef 
instead of the thin slices. Very nice hot or cold. 

Curried Beef or Mutton. — Cut 1 pound of tender beef into pieces 
about 3 inches by 2 inches and fry them for a few minutes with 2 
sliced onions in sufficient butter. Put the meat and onions into a 
saucepan with a wineglassful of vinegar and a little gravy or water 
with a dessertspoonful of curry-powder and stew very gently for 1 
hour. Place it in a deep dish with an edging of dry-boiled rice and 
serve. Mashed potatoes can be used instead of rice. 

Harlequin of Beef. — Cover a piece of fresh beef with boiling 
water, cook until nearly done ; let cool in water it boils in ; make a 
dressing (as suits varied tastes) for chicken or turkey; slice the meat 
rather thick and sprinkle well with salt, put first a layer of dressing, 
then beef, in a lard pail until about two-thirds full, the top layer to 
be dressing; steam about 3 hours; let cool in pail, then turn out and 
slice with a sharp knife. Butter the pail, or mould before putting in 
meat. A pudding dish, or tin basin can be used. 

Boiled Beef Shank. — Purchase a shank ; put over fire in cold 
water, adding a tablespoon of salt. Boil till tender and remove from 
stock. Serve with prepared mustard. Part of this can be used for 
dinner, and the remainder made into meat-pie, pressed beef, hash, etc. 

Pickled Pressed Beef. — Cut in very fine pieces the meat from a 
h-iiled shinbone, season with spices to taste, add a little well-reduced 
stock and some strong vinegar; pack in a deep dish and slice when cold. 



MEATS. 179 

Pressed Beef. — Buy a fore-leg of beef from a foot up ; it will weigh 
10 or 12 pounds; have it sawed, wash and put on in a large kettle (I 
put a steamer in the bottom of kettle so it won't burn). Let it boil 
until the meat comes off the bones, then put back and boil until very- 
soft and the water has boiled down to about 1 quart. Take out the 
meat and chop and add seasoning to taste, pepper, salt and any herbs 
such as parsley, thyme, etc. Put in a deep dish and add the liquor 
in which it was boiled after skimming off the fat ; mix thoroughly. 
Put a plate over it with a weight on it, and set away to get firm, when 
it will slice neatly. This is very nice with baked potatoes or French 
fried potatoes. 

Fried Liver and Bacon. — Wash the liver quickly in cold water, 
drying it with a meat cloth. Take each slice, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper on each, and dredge it with a little flour. Have the frying-pan 
hot and fry lightly the slices of bacon on both sides. Take them 
out on the hot platter and put in the slices of liver and fry them in 
hot gravy, turning them several times. When well done put the liver 
in the center of the platter and arrange the slices of bacon around 
the edge. Add a little boiling water to the gravy; thicken it with a 
little flour stirred up in some cold water. Let it boil up well, and then 
pour it over the dish. It can be served without the gravy, and many 
prefer it so. It is sometimes rolled in flour, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, dipped in egg, and fried in hot fat mixed with one-third 
butter. In this case omit the bacon. 

Stewed Beef Liver. — Prepare as above, fry with salt pork until 
brown. Cut in strips together with the pork. Put back in the pan, 
together with a cup of water, a piece of butter rolled in flour, pepper 
and salt to taste. Stew 10 minutes. Serve hot. 

Rolled Corn Beef — Take a flank piece of corn beef, make a 
dressing as for turkey. Spread thickly over the beef; roll tightly 
and tie. Fold in a thin cloth. Boil until tender. Take up, drain, 
press under a weight, slice cold. A flank piece can be rolled and tied 
and boiled tender without dressing. Press and slice cold. Garnish 
with curled parsley and little pickles. 

Pressed Corn Beef.— Take cheap pieces of corn beef; boil until 
tender ; while boiling throw in a few allspice ; when done let it drain 
and pick to pieces, removing all gristle and bone ; put in deep pan a 
plate which will cover all the meat, over that a weight ; put away for 



180 MEATS. 

a day or so ; when ready for use remove all grease from the top and 
slip a knife around the edge and turn out ; then slice ; very nice for 
tea and sandwiches. This recipe tested for 10 years in one family. 
_ New England Boiled Dinner. — Five pounds of the thick end 
of the rib of corned beef, put into cold water, and keep it boiling 
until noon from seven o'clock in the morning ; put beets in about an 
hour later; at ten o'clock cabbage and a good-sized piece of salt 
pork; at 11, the carrots and parsnips, and at 11.15 the potatoes. 

Next day a vegetable hash can be made of the remnants, as follows : 
Chop finely all the salt pork that was left, twice as much of the corned 
beef, and then all the vegetables with it. Season to taste ; mix with 
a little rich milk ; heat thoroughly in a frying-pan, and serve with 
catsup for a relish. White beets are nicest to use for a boiled dinner. 
If red are used, be careful not to break the skin. Cut the cabbage in 
quarters or eighths, according to size. It is an improvement to boil a 
red-pepper pod with the whole. Peel the beets, and dish up the 
vegetables and meat on separate dishes for convenience in carving. 
Add boiling water whenever the kettle needs replenishing. 

Meat and Potato Pie. — A good English dinner for six, cheap 
and palatable. Take 2 pounds of pie beef and cut it up about an inch 
square, and let it stew until tender; then slice 2 medium-sized onions ; 



French Cook's Knife. 

peel about 10 large potatoes, slice them, put them m with the meat 
and onions ; let all cook until the potatoes are about half done ; then 
take a large dish ; put the potatoes, meat, and onions all together; 
make a crust large enough to cover the dish. Take 1 ^i cups of flour, 
a tablespoonful of lard, a pinch of salt ; rub in the flour, and add water 
to make a stiff dough ; roll out as large as the top of dish. Before 
putting it on the dish, season with pepper and salt to taste ; bake in 
a quick oven half an hour. 

Pickled Beef Tong-ue. — After the tongue is boiled peel it, place 
in a saucepan with 1 cupful water, half cupful vinegar, 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of brown sugar, and cook until the liquor is evaporated. Then 
slice when cold. 



MEATS. 181 

Deviled Tongue. — Chop boiled beef tongue very fine; season 
well with black and red pepper and mustard, add a little vinegar to 
just moisten; press solid and slice thin. This makes very nice sand- 
wiches also. 

Braised Beef Tongue. — Wash a 4 pound fresh tongue, simmer 
slowly for 2 hours, skin and trim off some of roots; tie the tip to the 
thicker part ; brown 1 tablespoon of butter, add 2 of flour, pour on 
slowly 1 quart of stock or water, add half a carrot, half a turnip, 1 
potato, 1 onion, all cut fine, sprig of parsley, 3 bay leaves, 1 piece of 
celery or celery salt, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 cup of tomatoes; 
put tongue in a kettle that can be covered air-tight, pour the above 
all over it, cover and bake 2 hours, strain sauce, which should be 
about half gone, around and over the tongue; nice hot and fine cold; 
calves' liver is also nice done this way. 

Spiced Beef Tongue. — Rub into each tongue a mixture made of 
half a pound of brown sugar, a piece of saltpetre size of a pea, and 
a tablespoonful of ground cloves. Put it in a brine made of three- 
quarters pound of salt in 2 quarts of water and keep covered. Pickle 
2 weeks, then wash and dry with a cloth, roll out a thin paste made 
of flour and water, smear it all over the tongue, place in a pan to bake 
slowly. Baste thoroughly with lard and hot water. When done 
scrape off the paste and skim. Delicious sliced cold. Good hot. 

Meat Jelly. — Cut some dressed meat (beef or mutton) into slices 
smaller than for hash ; season them with salt and pepper; dissolve 
half an ounce of gelatine in 1 pint of good, clear stock; arrange the 
slices of meat in a mould with slices of hard-boiled eggs ; fill up the 
mould with the stock and put it into the oven for half an hour. Let 
it stand till quite cold, turn it out and garnish with watercress. 

Beef Heart, Stuffed. — Wash the heart carefully and open it 
enough to remove the ventricles. Then boil it 3 hours, leaving only 
enough at the last for gravy. When the heart is tender cut out a 
portion of the middle and fill the cavity with the following dressing : 
Dressing. — Bread-crumbs moistened, melted butter, pepper and salt ; 
season with sage or minced onion. If it is moistened with a beaten 
egg. it will stay in shape better when slicing. Put the heart in a pan 
in the oven with the liquor it was boiled in. Season with salt and 
pepper, and bake 20 minutes. Chop the piece of heart fine, stir into 
the liquor in the pan, and thicken slightly with browned flour. Serve 



182 MEATS. 

the gravy separately. This dish is also very nice served cold without 
gravy. Slice thin and garnish with sliced lemon or parsley. Any 
kind of a turkey dressing will answer for the heart. 

Dried Beef Frizzled in Cream. — Chip the beef thin as paper ; 
have very hot in frying-pan a piece of butter the size of an egg. Stir 
the beef around in it for 2 or 3 minutes, dust in a little flour, add half 
cupful rich cream, boil and serve in a covered dish. 

Gravied Dried Beef, — Put a tablespoonful of butter in the hot 
frying-pan ; when melted, add one-half pound shaved beef. Let it 
fry till the butter begins to brown, then add 1 pint of sweet milk. 
Thicken with 1 level tablespoonful of flour moistened with milk and 1 
Ggg beaten into the batter. This is a dainty breakfast dish. 

Dried Beef with Eggs. — Put chipped beef in a frying-pan and 
nearly fill with hot water. Set on the fire and let it boil up, and pour 
off. Put butter the size of a hen-egg to each half pound of meat. 
Season with pepper and let it fry a few moments over a hot fire, then 
break 3 or more eggs into it. Stir altogether until the eggs are 
done. Turn on a dish and serve. The meat can be fried as above, 
dredged with flour, and the eggs left out. Then fry the eggs sepa- 
rately and serve with it on a platter, same as with ham. 

Chipped Beef. — Pick fine one-half pound of dried beef, warm in a 
spider with a lump of butter (do not let it cook). Beat together 1 
egg, 1 teaspoonful of corn-starch and 1 cup of milk. Pour in the 
spider and let it boil up once. 

Tripe. 

Tripe, to Buy. — Choose the coarse, honey-combed tripe when 
purchasing it in market. It is always cooked and usually pickled 
when purchased. If not pickled, throw it in vinegar enough to 
cover it, and add a little salt. After it has lain in the vinegar for 3 
days, take it up and drain it, and it is ready for use. 

Fried Tripe. — To cook it in this way cut it in square pieces about 
2 inches in size or larger ; season each piece with a little salt and pep- 
per, dip it in the yolk of an egg, then in fine bread crumbs, and fry it 
brown in hot fat. It is very nice served with maitre d'hotel butter. 
Two or 3 slices of fat salt pork may be fried in pan before tripe is put in. 

Broiled Tripe. — Boil it till tender. When cold cut it in pieces 
4 or 5 inches square, flour it well, grease the gridiron and broil over a 



MEATS. 183 

clear fire. Lay it on a hot dish and season with salt, pepper and but- 
ter. The tripe referred to here is a kind sold cleaned, but not boiled. 
Give it the necessary six hours' boiling the day before. A cream 
sauce is nice to serve with either the broiled or fried tripe. The honey- 
comb tripe is chosen for these recipes. 

Tripe Fried in Batter. — Fry pickled tripe in an egg batter. 
Soak the tripe over night in cold water ; in the morning put it in a 
kettle of fresh cold water and boil it 20 minutes ; remove and dry on 
a cloth ; meantime have a quantity of fat pork well fried out, and bat- 
ter made with 1 egg, one-half cupful of milk or water, a pinch of salt 
and flour to make a drop batter ; cut the tripe in slices to serve and 
cover with batter ; when the batter is well cooked the tripe will be 
ready to serve. About 3 minutes will cook it. 

Pickled Tripe. — Cut in inch square pieces, and pour over it 
highly-spiced boiling vinegar, pepper corns, mace, a little salt. This 
will keep some time. It is a nice side dish. 

Roast Tripe. — Take 3 pounds of tripe, make a dressing of bread 
crumbs, a slice of onion cut fine, a bit of butter, and season with salt. 
Wet only enough to hold together. Lay the dressing smoothly over 
the tripe, and roll it lengthwise. Roast in a moderate oven, basting 
with hot water and melted butter. 

Tripe a la IVewburg-. — Cut the tripe into pieces the size of a 
small oyster. Make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 of butter, 
2 teacupfuls of milk. When it thickens add the tripe ; let it boil up 
once. Season with a little pinch of ground mace, salt, pepper and a 
little stewed parsley. Boil 5 minutes. Add half a wineglassful of 
sherry. Serve on toast. 

Tripe in Cream. — Make a white sauce with 1 tablespoonful of 
flour, 1 of butter, and a scant pint of milk. When it thickens add the 
tripe, cut into inch squares. Boil 5 minutes and serve hot on toast. 

Lyonnaise Tripe. — Boil the tripe in salted water, unless, as is 
often the case, it has been boiled before it was sold. Cut it in long, 
narrow strips. Put a tablespoonful of butter in the pan, and when it 
browns add a small onion cut into bits. When this has browned add 
a tablespoonful of vinegar, the tripe, a little chopped parsley, salt and 
pepper to taste. If the pickled tripe is used, omit the vinegar. 

Fricasseed Ti*ipe. — Cut a pound of tripe in narrow strips. Put a 
small cupful of water with it, add a bit of butter the size of an egg, 



184 MEATS. 

dredge in a large teaspoonful of flour ; season with a pinch of parsley 
or small onion, and let it simmer gently, not boil, for half an hour. 

Kidneys. 

Kidneys, Baked. — Boil four hours in three changes of water; 
chop fine; add 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 of corn starch; salt, pepper, 
and butter, to taste, in the gravy. Bake half an hour. Nice dish for 
supper or breakfast. The kidneys can be boiled the day before. 

Kidney Stew. — Take a beef kidney, and pour boiling water over 
it to extract the blood ; then take from the water and remove all 
pieces of suet; cut in fine pieces, put in stew-pan, add an onion 
minced very fine ; cook slowly for two hours, covering the kidneys 
with water ; season to taste. Then blend 1 tablespoonful of flour in 
a little cold water; stir in, and let boil up once just before removing 
from the stove. Add a small lump of butter. 

Kidney Stew on Toast. — First wash the kidneys in salted 
water, and dry with a clean towel ; fry 3 or 4 slices of bacon or salt 
pork ; then fry 2 or 3 small onions in the fat until a nice brown ; add 2 
cups of hot water, sprinkle the kidneys with a little salt and pepper, 
and roll in flour. If left whole, it will take half or three-quarters of 
an hour to cook. Cut them in two or three pieces. When cooked 
enough remove from the pan, and if not quite enough liquid to make 
a gravy, add a little more water; use 1 level tablespoonful of flour to 
a pint of liquid for thickening gravy ; a little Worcestershire sauce 
improves it greatly. Pour over slices of toast on a platter. 

Veal. 

Veal, while being one of the most palatable meats in the market, 
is the foundation of more delicate and delicious side dishes than any 
other. Calves' liver, brains, sweetbreads are better than from any other 
animal, and can be cooked in the daintiest fashions. The meat of the 
leg, which in full-grown beef is the comparatively tough round, is the 
fillet of veal — one of the nicest parts. For breading veal cutlets, etc., 
see directions in department on " Croquettes and Fritters." 

Veal Stuffing-. — Soak bread in tepid water to make when squeezed 
dry 1^ cupfuls ; put 1 tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, and when 
hot stir in a small onion minced fine, which color slightly; then add 
the bread, with 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley, a little grated nut- 



MEATS. 185 

meg and half cup of white sauce, or stock, salt and pepper. Stir it 
over the fire until it leave the sides ; then stir in 2 eggs. 

Force Meat. — Any cold meat, such as veal, chicken or ham, may- 
be used, chopping it very fine. For each cup of meat take the yolk 
of 1 egg, one-fourth of a cup of cracker or bread crumbs, 1 table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, and pepper and salt 
to taste. Mix the dry ingredients together, add the eggs beaten 
slightly. Butter in the proportion of 1 tablespoonful melted may be 
added if desired and minced onion. This can be used for dressing 
or made in balls and fried. Finely chopped raw veal can be used 
instead of cold meat. 

Chestnut Stufflngr. — Boil the chestnuts and shell them ; then 
blanch them and boil till soft ; mash them fine and mix with a little 
milk, bread crumbs, pepper and salt. Stuff the breast. A loin of 
veal stuffed with chestnuts is a toothsome dish. 

Roast Breast of Veal. — This is a cheap cut, and has compara- 
tively little bone, while at the same time the meat is peculiarly sweet 
and full of succulence, so that it is not strange that many delicious 
ways have been invented for its preparation. Have the bones removed 
at the market and sent home with the roast to use for soup. Flatten 
out the breast and make a dressing as for turkey, or a force-meat and 
spread it over the broad piece of meat, roll up, tie, and put the roll in 
a pan. Rub with butter ; put water or soup stock in the pan and 
roast slowly, basting often. If the oven is too hot, put a piece of thick 
paper over the meat for a time, or cover it with sliced onions or car- 
rots. Make a pan gravy with a flour thickening. A delicious roast. 
Slice it through meat and dressing. Good cold also. Apple sauce 
is nice served with it. A great addition to the gravy is to add half a 
cup of cooked rice to it, and a little tomato sauce (the tomato sauce 
that is prepared to serve with meats). 

Stewed Breast of Veal. — The breast should be boned, trimmed 
free from fat and cut in small squares of about two inches. These 
squares should be simmered in stock slowly until they are so thor- 
oughly tender that they may be easily pierced in all parts with a lard- 
ing needle. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful each of flour and but- 
ter mixed, taste it to see that it is well seasoned, and let it simmer again 
for 10 minutes. Replace the veal in it and let it warm up. When thor- 
oughly heated, dish the pieces in a circle and pour the gravy over them. 



186 MEATS. 

Koast Loiu of Veal. — Salt, pepper, and rub with butter. Put a 
cup of water in the pan adding a lump of butter. Baste frequently. 
Roast about 25 minutes to the pound. At the last dredge with flour ; 
let brown slightly. Skim the fat from the pan gray, add hot water, 
and thicken slightly with browned flour; let boil up, and send to the 
table separately. Have the kidney roasted with the loin, if possible, 
and serve a little of it with each helping of meat. 

Baked Fillet of Veal. — The fillet is the under part of the loin. 
Have it boned at the market, and fill the cavity with any preferred 
dressing, or a force-meat made of bread crumbs, a little finely chopped 
salt pork, sage, pepper and salt. Lay in bottom of baking-pan a few 
slices of salt pork. Skewer the veal and lay in the pan and pour 
over it one cup of boiling water; baste frequently while baking. It is 
well to sew up the opening after stuffing with dressing. A nice addi- 
tion is to cut gashes over the top of the veal and fill in with the dress- 
ing. Any dressing that is left can be poured over the top of the 
meat. Four hours will be necessary to cook this roast. A dash of 
catsup is an addition to the gravy. Currant jelly may be served 
with it. 

Veal Pot-pie. — Divide the meat in small pieces. Breast or some 
other cheap cut can be used. Season with salt, pepper and butter. 

Braised Veal. — Take a piece of the shoulder weighing about 5 
pounds. Remove the bone and tie up in good shape. Put a piece of 
butter the size of half an egg, together with a few shavings of onions, 
into a kettle and let it get hot. Salt and pepper the veal and put it 
in the kettle. Cover and put over a medium fire, turning occasionally 
until the meat is brown on both sides. Then set the kettle back 
where it can simmer slowly for about 2j/< hours. If the juices of the 
meat, together with the butter, do not make sufficient gravy to cook 
it in, add one or two tablespoonfuls of hot water from time to time. 

Pot-Pie Crust. — Three cups flour, 2 heaping teaspoons baking- 
powder, half teaspoonful salt ; sift flour and baking-powder together, 
mix with either sweet milk or water; mix stiff, roll out thick and put 
over pot-pie as above. Or mix stiff and drop with spoon in kettle 1 
spoonful at a time, cook 20 minutes. Cover with tight lid and do 
not take it off until done. 

Veal Stew. — Boil 2^ pounds of breast of veal cut in small pieces 
1 hour in water enough to cover, add 1 dozen potatoes and cook half 



MEATS. 187 

an hour. Before taking off the stove add a pint of milk and flour 
enough to thicken. Season to taste. Carrots sliced thinly are an 
addition. The milk may be omitted if not cared for, and boiling 
water used instead; a lump of butter is an addition. The ends of the 
ribs, the neck and the knuckle may all be used in stews. Skim care- 
fully when the meat first begins to boil, and before serving take out 
all the small bones that will have loosened from boiling. This stew 
or fricasseed veal, as it is sometimes called, is nicer if the meat is first 
browned slightly in the kettle with butter and a little flour before the 
water is added. 

Veal Cutlets (Breaded). — Take inch-thick slices of veal, cut from 
the loin, rub with salt and pepper. Make a butter of 1 cupful of 
milk, 1 beaten egg and flour enough to thicken, add a pinch of bak- 
ing-powder. Fry the veal a delicate brown on each side. Dip in the 
batter, put back into the fat or butter and fry brown once more. If 
there is any batter left, drop it in spoonfuls into the fat. Fry brown 
on each side, and arrange around the edge of the platter as a garnish, 
serving one with each cutlet. Thicken the gravy with browned flour, 
first adding sufficient hot water. 

Another way is to dip the half-cooked cutlet first in beaten egg 
and then roll it in powdered cracker crumbs and fry slowly until brown 
on both sides. Many cooks omit this first frying, but it will be found 
to prevent the tendency to rawness. Garnish with lemon. 

Mock Duck. — Three good-sized veal cutlets trimmed into neat 
shape. Have ready a stuffing made of a large cupful of bread crumbs 
and 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped pork, one small onion chopped fine, 
a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Roll and tie up the cut- 
lets, after having spread them with the stuffing. Put them into a 
baking-pan, with cold water to cover them ; bake about three-quarters 
of an hour, covered closely. When nearly done take half a cup of 
gravy, half a cup of water, a tablespoonful of butter and let them 
come to a boil. Put the steaks on a hot dish, removing the thread 
carefully so as not to injure the shape of the roll. Pour on the gravy 
and cover them, adding a teaspoonful of catsup, a squeeze of lemon, 
a little salt and pepper, the last thing before taking up. 

Cutlet.s with Mushrooms. — Take some cutlets, each with a bone 
to it. trim them neatly in the same manner as mutton cutlets. Take 
a piece of rather lean bacon; cut it in slices about the eighth of an 



188 MEATS. 

inch thick and trim each shce to the size of the cutlets. Sprinkle the 
veal with pepper and salt and fry each cutlet on both sides, in butter, 
till done. Fry the bacon separately ; arrange the cutlets and bacon 
alternately in a dish ; sprinkle them freely with minced parsley and 
thyme, and in the middle place the mushrooms, cooked as follows : 
Put in a saucepan the trimmings of veal, a carrot, a little minced 
onion, or a couple of shallots, parsley and sweet herbs, salt and pepper 
to taste, and three-quarters of a pint of common stock, and then boil 
for an hour; then strain the liquor, thicken with 1 ounce of butter, 
rolled in a little flour — add a pint of well-washed and picked mush- 
rooms, and simmer for 15 minutes. 

Veal Head Cheese. — One pound of stewing veal and leg bone ; 
boil thoroughly ; strain through a colander, saving the soup. Chop 
the meat very fine and return it to the soup. Cook until thick, sea- 
son to taste with salt and pepper, pour into a mould, set on ice until 
jellied and serve with sliced lemon. 

Calf's Feet Stewed. — Thoroughly clean the calf's feet, cover 
them with boiling water, put in two onions, two carrots, and two 
heads of celery ; let them gently simmer 4 hours. Mix a heaped 
tablespoonful of flour smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into 
the saucepan with the calf's feet, season with pepper and salt, let it 
boil 5 minutes, turn it upon a hot deep dish, with the vegetables round 
it, and some finely chopped parsley sprinkled over. 

Calf s Feet Fried. — Boil until tender, remove the large bones, 
split, dredge with flour, season with salt, pepper and powdered pars- 
ley, and fry brown in butter or dripping. If a gravy is wished, pour 
a little water into the frying-pan, thicken with flour, and season. 
Squeeze in a little lemon juice. 

Calf's Head Boiled. — Clean the head, soak it in salt and water to 
blanch it. The brains and tongue can be saved to cook. (If the 
head is already prepared when bought, the brains and tongue will 
not be with it.) Boil tender, skim the water carefully. Salt to 
taste, simmer it gently until the bones slip out easily. Take up and 
drain very dry, dot with butter, sprinkle over with salt, pepper and 
finely powered sweet herbs, dredge with flour or powdered bread 
crumbs. Set in a hot oven, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it to 
give a fine flavor. Or use a little of the liquor in which it was boiled 
for basting. 



MEATS. 189 

Roast brown, put on a hot platter. Take the necessary amount 
of the liquor for gravy, pour in the roasting pan, add a small piece of 
butter, thicken with browned flour, let it boil up with a few thin slices 
of lemon, i. c, if the lemon flavor is liked. Serve the gravy separately. 
If the brains are with the head, some cooks tie them in a cloth and 
boil half an hour with the head. Chop fine and add to the gravy — 
omitting the lemon. Keep the liquor in which the head is boiled, and 
make a soup of it next. Season plain or make into a mock-turtle soup. 

Calf's Head Cheese. — Boil a calfs head until the meat leaves the 
bones, pick it free from every particle of bone, season with pepper 
and salt (one tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper), and 
a tablespoonful of any sweet herbs that may be liked (parsley, sweet 
marjoram, thyme, sage). Pack closely in a dish, put a small plate 
over it, with a weight upon it. When cold and firm, slice for tea or 
sandwiches. Mustard is nice with it. 

Calf's Brains, Boiled. — Soak the brains in salt water, then re- 
move the skin and wash free from blood. Put 2 sets of brains in a 
quart of cold water ; add to this a teaspoonful of salt, half cupful of 
vinegar, and 6 whole peppers. Boil tender, which will take about 20 
minutes. Serve with salt, pepper and melted butter. 

Calfs liiver and Bacon. — Wash and dry the liver, cut in slices 
one-third of an inch and flour well. Fry the bacon crisp, then lay in 
the liver and brown nicely ; take up in center of platter with bacon 
around. Serve a slice of bacon with each slice of liver. A brown 
gravy can be made if wished by pouring off the unnecessary, adding 
a little hot water in the pan, and thickening with a little flour, rubbed 
smooth in a little cold water. Season to taste; let boil up and 
serve in a gravy boat. Not as delicate a dish as when liver is broiled. 

Hani and Liver. — Fry thin slices of ham and in the ham fat cook 
the liver, first rolling it in flour. Serve on same dish. 

Fricasseed Call's Liiver. — Two pounds of liver cut into strips half 
an inch thick and finger length. Dredge them with flour and fry to 
a light brown, turning often. Make a gravy in the pan with the hot 
fat and a little flour and water. Add to it a finely minced onion and 
a little parsley. Put in the liver, add half a cup of hot water, a table- 
spoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of catsup, salt and pepper to taste. 
Let it boil up and serve, pouring the gravy round the liver. If soup 
stock is convenient use instead of made gravy. 



190 MEATS. 

Calf s Liiver, Plain. — Slice liver and let it fry in butter in a shallow 
frying-pan. When done place it in a warm dish, sprinkle with pepper, 
salt and chopped parsley, and pour over them the butter in the pan. 

Mock Terrapiu. — One pound of sliced calf's liver, salt, fry brown. 
Hash it — not too fine, flour thickly and add 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tea- 
spoonful of mixed mustard, a dash of cayenne pepper, butter the size 
of an egg, 1 teacupful of boiling water. Let boil 10 minutes and 
serve with slices of toast. 

Sweetbreads, To Prepare. — When properly prepared sweetbreads 
form many of the most delicate dishes that can be placed upon the 
table. In whatever style sweetbreads are to be served they should 
first be soaked in salt and water, and then plunged in boiling water 
to whiten and harden them. In boiling sweetbreads a porcelain kettle 
should be used, and in cutting them a silver knife, as they contain an 
acid that acts upon iron, tin or steel, and destroys much of the deli- 
cate flavor. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar to water in which the 
sweetbreads are parboiled, or the same amount of lemon juice. Seven 
minutes' boiling is enough to parboil them. 

Creamed Sweetbreads. — Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, pack into 
small pieces and chop fine with half a dozen mushrooms. Put a tea- 
spoonful of butter in a small saucepan and set on the stove to melt ; 
when hot add a tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth, pour over half 
a pint of cream, and stir until boiling ; add the sweetbreads and mush- 
rooms, set the saucepan in a kettle of boiling water, and stir 5 minutes ; 
season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Serve in little paper cases. 

Sweetbreads in Jelly. — Parboil a pair of sweetbreads. Take up 
and press between plates until firm and cold. Cut them into cutlets. 
Have some aspic jelly melted slightly ; dip each cutlet in it. Chop 
some of the jelly into pieces, arrange in a circle, lay the cutlets on 
this, fill the center with chopped celery, pour mayonnaise around the 
dish, and garnish with little squares of aspic. Serve very cold. See 
directions for Aspic. 

Mutton. 

Roast Mutton. — The pieces best for roasting are the hindquarter 
of the sheep, called the loin and the leg, also chime or saddle, which 
is the two loins together. Trim carefully, rub butter over it, dredge 
with salt and pepper. Put a very little water in the baking-pan, to 
baste with, and afterward with its own gravy. Turn the bony sid-s 



MEATS. 191 

toward the fire first and roast. If it browns too fast cover with a 
sheet of white paper. Allow 15 minutes to each pound of meat. 
Skim the gravy well and thicken with browned flour. Serve with 
melted currant jelly, or with mint sauce. 

Roast Mutton with Browned Potatoes. — Wipe the mutton care- 
fully, rub it with pepper and coarse salt, sprinkle with summer savory. 
Put the meat on a rack, fill the space under it with boiling water. 
Slice an onion thinly and lay over the meat and put in the oven, with 
a quick fire. If no rack is handy, set the meat up on 3 or 4 muffin 
rings. Cover the pan. About 30 minutes before dinner pare pota- 
toes and put around the meat, turning them so that the meat and 
potatoes alike will be beautifully browned. By roasting in this way 
there will be about a quart of the best stock in the space under the 
rack. Of this take enough for gravy and put away the rest for next 
day's soup. Make a gravy as follows : Skim off part of the fat, stir 
in a small tablespoonful of tomato catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcester- 
shire sauce and a grated or finely minced onion. Wet a teaspoonful 
of browned flour smoothly with cold water, stir in, let boil up, strain 
and send to the table. 

StufTecl Leg- of Mutton, Roasted. — Remove the bone from a 
small leg of mutton without spoiling the skin. Trim off most of the 
fat. Fill the space from v/hich the bone was removed with a dress- 
ing made same as for fowls, adding to it a finely minced onion. Sew 
the leg up underneath to keep the dressing in place. If any of the 
dressing remains, cut gashes in the fleshy part of the leg and fill. 
Bind up with tapes or strips of muslin. Put in a roasting pan, turn 
in a cupful of hot water and put in a moderately hot oven, basting it 
occasionally. 

When partly cooked season with salt and pepper. When thor- 
oughly cooked, put the leg on a hot platter, skim the fat from the top 
of the gravy, add a cup of hot water, and thicken with a teaspoonful 
of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Let boil up and add a spoon- 
ful of tomato catsup. Serve separately. Send currant jelly and 
mashed turnips to the table with it. 

Shoulder of Mvitton with Oysters. — Take a shoulder of mutton, 
remove the blade and other bones neatly, and fill the spaces with 
small raw oysters (about half a pint), season well with salt and pep- 
per, rub some salt on the outside of the meat, tie securely in a cloth 



192 MEATS. 

that has previously been wrung out of cold water and well floured ; 
then put it into boiling water (salted), and boil gently from 2 to 2^ 
hours, according to number of pounds. Serve with oyster sauce, 
made as follows : Half pint of small oysters, \]4 tablespoons of but- 
ter, 2 heaping teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, salt and 
pepper. 

Wash the oysters in water enough to make 3 gills with the oyster 
liquor, work the butter and flour together to make a smooth paste, 
let the water and oyster juice come to a boil, skim and pour it gradu- 
ally on the flour and butter, let come to a boil and add the oysters 
and seasoning; boil up once and serve with boiled beets and squash, 
baked potatoes, graham bread and some kind of fruit jelly. An ap- 
petizing meal. 

Boiled Leg^ of Mutton with Caper Sauce. — Wipe a leg of mut- 
ton with a damp towel, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, 
and let simmer gently 15 minutes for every pound, add a teaspoonful 
of salt. When the mutton is done, lay on a dish, garnish with pars- 
ley and serve with caper sauce. 

Caper Sauce. — Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour 
to a smooth paste in a bowl, set in a pan of boiling water ; thin the 
mixture with a large cupful of water, stir until smooth, add half a 
teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of capers, take from the fire. 
Or it may be stuffed, and wrapped in a floured cloth to keep in the 
dressing ; remove the towel carefully and serve as above. 

Mutton Pie. — Take some chops from a well-hung neck of mut- 
ton, remove all superfluous fat, and season highly with pepper and 
salt. Chop together 2 apples and 1 onion. Put a layer of cutlets 
into a pie-dish, scatter over a layer of apple and onion, then another 
layer of meat, and so on till the dish is full. Cover with a good plain 
pastry, and bake for three-fourths of an hour in a steady oven. 

Mutton and Tomato Pie. — Butter a deep dish, put in a layer of 
sliced tomatoes, then a layer of mutton cut in rather small pieces, 
sprinkle lightly with fine bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt 
and bits of butter. Continue until the dish is full, having the crumbs 
for the top. Bake an hour and a half 

Mutton and Potato Pie. — Get a mutton stew, cut into convenient 
pieces and boil until tender. Pare some potatoes and cut into rather 
small pieces, put in with the meat and cook until done. Then place 



MEATS. 193 

all in a large pan or baking dish, cover with a crust made as for 
baking powder biscuit ; bake. 

Mutton Steak with Rice. — Boil a cupful of well-washed rice in 
2 quarts of water and a coffeespoonful of salt; boil 20 minutes, drain. 
Cut a thick steak from the thickest part of an under-leg of mutton ; 
broil by turning often until done rare. Put in the middle of a hot 
platter, season with salt and pepper. Surround it with rice. A little 
orange or lemon juice can be squeezed over the dish. 

Chops ill Paper. — Chops, birds and dry fish are most delicate 
and delicious broiled in paper. This should be spread with olive oil ; 
then the article to be broiled, salted and peppered, should be snugly 
tucked in the case, turning the edges over several times, and pinching 
together those close to the meat. The paper will char a long time 
before igniting, and the contents will be basted in their own juices. 
The time required for broiling in paper is usually about 8 minutes. 
When the paper is well browned, the bird or chop is done to a juicy, 
delicate and digestive turn. Serve in its envelope, which conserves 
the heat and juices to the moment of eating. 

Roast Lamb. — The fore and hind quarters are good for roasting, 
dredge with flour, sprinkle salt, pepper and bits of butter over the 
meat, baste frequently with butter and water. It must be well done ; 
bake 20 minutes to the pound. It can be stuffed also like fillet of veal. 
Mint sauce is the conventional dressing, but a cream sauce is also nice. 

Cream Sauce, — Pour off the fat from the pan, add a cup of milk 
and thicken with a little flour, season, add a little butter if necessary. 
A sprinkling of chopped parsley will add to the flavor. Green peas 
qr mashed turnips should be served with lamb. 

Grilled Lamb. — Take a shoulder of lamb. Score in squares an 
inch each way. Brush over with melted butter, then with the beaten 
yolk of an &%'g, roll in bread crumbs, dredge with salt, pepper and 
powdered sweet herbs. Roast a delicate brown, and make a gravy in 
the pan, adding to it 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup, and thicken- 
ing with browned flour. 

Braised Lamb. — Take of lamb or young mutton 3 pounds; 
roll in salted flour, place in a skillet with hot fat and then cook till 
brown on both sides. Pour on a pint of hot water, cover tightly, 
cook rapidly twenty minutes, take upon a hot plate, spread with 
catsup and serve immediately. 
13 



194 



MEATS. 



Lamb and Green Peas. — Three pounds of lamb, a can of French 
peas, a medium-sized carrot, 2 tablespoons of butter, a medium-sized 
onion. Remove all the fat possible from the lamb and dust it over 
with flour; put the butter over the fire in a stew-pan; when hot add 
the onion, which must be sliced fine ; when the onion is brown re- 
move from the butter; put in the lamb and let it brown all over; 
then cover with hot water; salt and pepper to taste, and set it at the 









back of the stove, where it will just simmer. Slice the carrot thin, 
and cut the slices in quarters. After the lamb has cooked one hour 
and a half add the carrot and cook another hour. Just before serv- 
ing take up lamb and put it on a hot platter. Thicken the gravy and 
add the peas. When well heated through pour over the lamb and 
serve very hot. If the water evaporates in cooking add a little more 
before thickening the gravy. If green peas are used, they must be 
put in and cooked 20 minutes before the gravy is thickened; can be 
put in before the lamb is taken up. 

Lamb Pie. — Make a crust as for beefsteak pie; line a deep dish 
around the sides ; take 2 pounds of lamb, cut in small pieces, and one 
onion cut fine; take 10 apples, pare and slice. Put a layer of apples, 
then meat, then onion, pepper, salt and a little sugar, then put on top 
crust and bake. Nice with mashed potatoes ; half cup of water in pie. 

Love in Disg-uise. — Take 2 nice, fresh lambs' hearts and stuff 
them with bread-crumbs, sage and onions, and bake for about 10 
minutes in a sharp oven ; then lake some mashed potatoes and cover 
the hearts all over and then put into the oven until brown ; make 
some gravy and serve hot. 



MEATS. 195 

Imitation Barbecue Mutton. — Roast the mutton as usual, but 
one hour before ready to serve prepare the following mixture : One- 
third cup each of Worcestershire sauce, tomato catsup and vinegar, 
saltspoon of pepper, one round teaspoonful of mustard. Stick the 
meat all over with a sharp-pointed knife, and fill the places with the 
mixture just prepared. If any is left, pour over the roast when it 
comes to the table. 

Pork. 

Roast Leg- of Pork. — Choose a small leg of fine, young pork, cut 
a slit in the knuckle with a sharp knife and fill the space with sage 
and onions chopped, moistened bread-crumbs, and a little pepper and 
salt ; when half done score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper 
than the outer rind. Apple sauce and potatoes should be served with 
it. Roast 25 minutes to the pound, since pork must be thoroughly 
cooked. If a loin roast, make deep gashes between the ribs and fill 
with dressing. In the leg make deep incisions in the meat at the 
large end and fill with the dressing. Put 1 cupful of water in the 
pan and baste with this. Pour off all the fat after the meat is taken 
up, turn in sufficient hot water, thicken with browned flour and add 
juice of half a lemon. If apple sauce is not served, send spiced goose- 
berries, or currants, or currant jelly in with it. Parsnips are an ac- 
companying vegetable. Roast pork is very much improved by 
sprinkling a little sage over the top. Sweet potatoes should be 
boiled until nearly done, then skinned and put in the pan with the 
pork and roasted until brown. 

Shoulder of Pork, Freucli Fasliion. — Take a 7-pound fresh 
shoulder and have the butcher score it; then put it in the steamer 
and let it steam three hours, or until the rind will come off easily 
with a fork ; then take off the rind, salt and flour it, and put it in the 
oven and bake 1 hour, so it will be browned on all sides. Then make 
the gravy in the pan as above. Apple sauce should be served with it. 

Roast Pig-. — The pig should weigh, before dressing, 10 or 12 
pounds. Boil the liver and heart 20 minutes in salted water, and 
chop finely. Cut a loaf of bread in slices, dip in cold water, chop 
and add to the minced meat; pour over all one-quarter cup of 
melted butter and two well-beaten eggs ; season with salt, pepper, 
sage and onions, if liked. Mix all thoroughly, fill the pig and sew it 
together. Bend the forelegs under at the knees, and the hind legs 



196 MEATS. 

forward at the gambrel joint; put a corn-cob in the mouth to keep it 
open, and wrap with cord to keep the legs in position. Put in the 
dripping-pan with tin dishes on each side to keep it on the knees; 
add a little water and bake from two to three hours. Baste frequently, 
using melted butter at first, and be careful that it does not burn. 
Before sending to the table put in the mouth a lemon or a small, red 
apple, and serve with baked sour apples. A potato dressing, with 
the addition of sage, is sometimes used. Skim and strain the gravy ; 
boil up; thicken with browned flour; add the juice of a lemon; serve 
in a boat. In carving, cut off the head, split down the back, take off 
the hams and shoulders, separate the ribs. 

Koast Loiu of Pork witli Apple Stuffing. — First trim and cut 
out all the bones, the skin scored in little squares and the bones re- 
placed with the tart apples, pared and quartered, well reasoned with 
salt, pepper and sage, and tied around to secure the apples. The 
loin is then roasted brown, with no water, basted only with its own 
drippings ; as it browns dust with flour, and then baste in turn ; 
keep warm while a gravy is made by stirring cider into the pan, 
where enough flour has fallen to make a thick sauce, which, if well 
boiled and properly seasoned, makes a delicious gravy. Serve with it 
baked sweet potatoes. 

Boiled Leg- of Pork. — Choose a small compact leg of pork, rub 
well with salt, and let it remain in pickle a week or ten days, turning 
and rubbing every day. An hour before preparing put in cold water for 
an hour. If the leg is purchased already salted, find out how long it 
has been in pickle and soak accordingly. Put the leg over to boil 
in sufficient cold water to cover it. Let come to a boil and skim care- 
fully. Simmer gently until tender. If cooked too fast, the knuckle 
will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done. Carrots, 
turnips or parsnips, may be boiled with the pork, and some of them 
should be laid around the platter as a garnish. If the leg weighs 
8-pounds, it should cook 3 hours after it begins to boil. 

Cold Roast Pork. — The remains of cold roast pork, always a 
difficult meat to re-cook, can be utilized by cutting the meat in dice, 
allowing a little of the fat to remain with it ; season with pepper and 
salt, add a dessertspoonful of parsley cut fine, a pinch of sage, another 
of summer savory, a sprinkle of mace and nutmeg, and a teaspoonful 
of minced lemon peel. Mix well, put in a baking-di'^h, moisten with 



MEATS. 197 

'Any gravy that may have been left, and bake about an hour. Serve 
hot or cold. 

Boiled Haul. — Soak over night in cold water, 24 hours if it be 
very salt. Put over to boil in cold water, let cook slowly until a fork 
will penetrate easily, draw off the skin. Sprinkle fine bread crumbs 
mixed with brown sugar, over the top. Bake 1 hour. If the ham 
is to be glazed, omit the bread crumbs in roasting. Use the glace 
before given in this department, or, this : Brush over with the yolk of 
a well-beaten egg. Dredge thickly with finely powdered cracker- 
crumbs, and cover with sweet cream, and put in the oven long enough 
to brown, Granish with curled parsley. If it is to be simply boiled, 
let it become cool in the water in which it has been cooked. In this 
way the juices of the meat are retained, and the dryness so common 
in cold ham is prevented. Cut writing paper in a fringe and twist 
around the bone before serving. A 15-pound ham will require at 
least five hours to cook. 

Ham can be soaked in a boilerful of sour milk for 24 hours 
before cooking. Set the boiler on the back of the stove, thus keep- 
ing the milk warm to draw out the salt and to make the meat tender. 
Then boil as above. Scrub the outside of the ham with a stiff brush 
and then rinse thoroughly before putting to soak. A boiled ham can 
be served hot or cold, and the remnants can be used in many ways. 

Sug-ared Ham. — Sugared ham is something worth having in the 
house. Cut in thin slices ; it may be served in an emergency to good 
advantage. For Sunday-night suppers it is also excellent. The 
recipe here given is a Cuban one and is declared delicious. Three 
days are necessary in carry out the directions. The ham is given a 
plain boiling on the first day, on the second it is immersed in cider, 
and on the third day it receives a coating of sugar icing. 

Deviled Ham. — Cut a thick slice of ham from the leanest part. 
Dredge it with dry curry powder or black pepper. Broil over a clear 
fire, turning frequently, and taking care not to cook too much. Serve 
with the following sauce poured over the ham : One teaspoonful of 
black pepper mixed with 2 of m.ustard flour. Melt 1 ounce of butter 
in a saucepan, and work in the mustard. Dilute with 4 tablespoonfuls 
of meat stock or water, add a tablespoonful of minced gherkin or 
capers, and a few drops of chilli vinegar. Make this boiling hot, add 
more vinegar if not acid enough. Pour the sauce on to a very hot 



198 MEATS. 

meat dish. Lay the broil on it. None of the sauce must touch the 
upper surface of the broiled meat. Garnish with lemon rings and 
serve. 

Ham Cutlets on Toast. — Chop cold boiled ham fine, add to it 
an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a dash of pepper, tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley, and stir in two whole eggs, well beaten. Form 
this mixture into little cutlets the shape of a tiny ham ; dip them in 
egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. Dish each 
one on a piece of toast. A cream gravy can be made in the pan and 
served with it if wished. Turn off most of the fat in the frying-pan, 
add a cup of rich milk or cream ; thicken with a little flour rubbed 
smooth in cold milk, let boil, season and send in with the cutlets, or 
else turn around, not over, them in the dish. 

Spare-rib Pot Pie. — Cut the spare-ribs once across, then in 
strips 3 or 4 inches wide, stew until tender in enough hot water to 
cover. Season with salt and pepper. Empty the kettle and refill as 
follows : A layer of spare-ribs, a layer of peeled (raw) potatoes, cut 
in quarters, if large, some bits of butter, some small squares of baking 
powder biscuit, rolled thin, season again, and so on until the kettle is 
two-thirds full, leaving squares of crust for the top layer. Then add 
the liquor in which the spare-ribs were boiled, and hot water if 
needed. Cover closely and boil }4 to ^ hour, adaing hot water 
towards the last to keep from burning. Have enough water on at 
first so that for half an hour the cover will not have to be removed, 
so it will not fall. If, after taking up, there is not enough gravy, add 
flour and butter and hot water rubbed together ; season to taste, and 
serve. To warm up, set in a dripping pan in oven, add lumps of 
butter, with gravy and hot water. 

Spare-lib and Sauerkraut. — Two pounds spare-ribs, those with 
the small ribs; wash and place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling 
water, put 1 quart of sauerkraut on top of the spare-ribs, cover and 
cook lj4 hours; then remove the spare-ribs and lay them on a hot 
dish, taste the kraut, if not salt enough add more salt, and if not sour 
enough add 1 tablespoonful of white vinegar; then grate 1 peeled po- 
tato, add it to the kraut, stir and cook 5 minutes, then serve. 

Pork Pie. — Stew pieces of lean fresh pork till nearly done and 
season with salt — back-bone pieces are best; dredge the bottom of a 
deep pan thickl}- with flour ; put in the meat and season with black 



MEATS. 199 

pepper ; pour over the gravy, dredge with flour, and add the crust, 
which should be made hke baking powder biscuit, rolled, cut open- 
ing for escape of steam, and put over the top of the pie ; bake till the 
crust is done. A little powdered sage may be added, if liked. A 
tablespoon of catsup is nice. 

Pork aud Apple Pie. — Peel, quarter and core some fine, juicy 
baking apples, make a nice paste and line the bottom and sides of a 
deep dish. Put in the apples, strewing among them sugar enough to 
sweeten and a pinch of salt. Cut some nice pork in small pieces, re- 
moving most of the fat, and all of the bone, cover the apples with a 
layer of meat, and pour in a teacup of sweet cider, heap up the pie in 
the center, put on a top crust with a slit in the center. Bake it well 
in a hot oven. The juice of a lemon, or a little vinegar in a cup of 
water, may be used instead of the cider. 

Baked Salt Pork. — Boil 4 or 5 pounds of pork having " streaks 
of lean " in it, in plenty of water for 1 ^ hours. Take it out, remove 
the skin, cut gashes across the top, sprinkle over a little powdered 
sage, pepper and rolled crackers. Place in the oven until browned. 
To be eaten cold or hot. 

Salt Poi'k Stew. — A piece of pork not too fat is required for this. 
Cover with cold water and simmer for 2 hours or more according to 
the size of the piece. Add sliced onions and potatoes. Boil half an 
hour and add dumplings. Cover closely and do not let stop boiling 
for 15 minutes, when it is ready to serve. 

Salt Pork in Batter. — Take off the rind ; fry as you like it. 
Make a batter the same as you would for anything. Dip the pork in 
the batter and fry again. Don't pour the fat on with the pork. 

Corned Spare-ribs. — Very nice. Get them at the market ready 
corned, or put in pickle with other meats at home. Boil in plenty of 
water, and serve plain, or use them for a boiled dinner instead of 
corned beef or ham. Nice cold also. 

Creamed Bacon. — Bake in the oven slices of bacon till they are 
brown and crisp ; put them on a hot platter ; add to the fat in the pan 
a teaspoonful or more of flour ; stir till smooth, add gradually a tea- 
cupful and a half of milk and cook 2 minutes. The bacon can be 
fried instead of baking. 

Bacon and Sweet Potatoes. — Fry thin rashers of bacon to a 
crisp brown, fry thick slices of cold boiled sweet potatoes in the drip- 



200 MEATS. 

ping and heap in a hot dish with the bacon around the outside. An 
appetizing breakfast dish. 

Liver and Baeou Balls. — One cup of boiled calf's liver, ^ cup 
bacon, mince very fine, add salt and pepper, form into balls or small 
cakes, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat ; serve gar- 
nished with parsley. 

Bacon and Beans. — Soak the beans over night and cook exactly 
as pork and beans. Remember, however, to leave the bacon in a 
single square piece. When it has boiled perfectly tender, which will 
be before the beans, take it out. Then skim and set aside until the 
beans are very tender. Place the bacon in the center of a baking 
dish, drain the beans and put them around the bacon ; fill to the top 
of the beans with liquor in which they were boiled. Bake 1 ^4 or 2 
hours, until the liquid is nearly all absorbed. Then serve hot. 

Potted Ham. — To 2 pounds of lean ham allow one-half pound of 
fat, 1 teaspoonful of mace, half a nutmeg grated, one-half teaspoonful 
of cayenne pepper. A teaspoonful of dry mustard may be added. 
Mince the fat and lean together and pound as smooth as possible, sea- 
soning it. Have the mate ground or 'pounded fine. A mortar is 
best to pound the meat ; a stone jar and a potato masher can be 
substituted. Put the mixture in a baking dish and bake half an hour. 
Press it down firmly in a small stone jar, and fill the jar up with 
melted lard. Paste paper over the jar ; it will keep a long time in 
winter. It is nice to serve cold for lunch, sliced, or for company 
sandwiches. Scrape the lard off and slice. If not all used, melt the 
lard and pour back. 

Pig-'s Feet Soused. — Scald the feet and scrape them clean if the 
covering of the toes will not come off without ; singe them in hot 
embers until they are loose, then take them off. Some persons put 
the feet into weak lime water to whiten them. Having scraped them 
clean and white, wash them and put them into a pot of warm but not 
boiling water, with a little salt. Let them boil gently till, by turning 
a fork in the flesh, it will easily break and the bones are all loosened. 
Take off the scum as it rises. When they are done take them out of 
the water and lay them in vinegar enough to cover them, adding to 
it one-quarter of a pint of the water in which they were boiled. Add 
6 pepper corns, a few allspice, 4 cloves and a little mace. Put them 
in a jar and cover closely. Soused feet may be eaten cold from the 



MEATS. 201 

vinegar, split in two from top to toe, or they may be split in two, 
dipped in flour and fried in hot lard, or they may be broiled and but- 
tered. But in the latter case they should be nicely browned. 

Hejul Cheese. — One small pig's head, or half a large head, 4 pig's 
feet ; have cleaned and trimmed. This can be done at the market. 
The feet make the cheese firmer, and less fat. Put in a kettle with 
water enough to cover ; boil slowly until all the bones will slip out. 
Then set away; when cold skim all the fat off the top. Then set the 
kettle back on the stove until it warms the meat. Set off, skim out 
the meat into a chopping bowl, work through the hands to remove 
all the small bones. Season highly with pepper, salt, powdered 
thyme, summer savory, allspice and cinnamon. Chop fine, and add 
some of the liquor in which the meat was boiled. Pack closely in 
deep dishes or pint bowls. In a cold place it will keep months. Slice 
thinly. A weight will press it firmer. 

Sausage. — Seven and one-half pounds of lean pork, 2^"^ pounds 
of fat pork, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sage, 2 level tablespoonfuls of 
summer savory, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sal!:, 2 level tablespoonfuls 
of black pepper. Any one that prefers can use one-half beef instead 
of all pork. Chop the meat fine in a chopper, removing all stringy 
parts ; add the spices, stir and run all through the chopper again to 
mix thoroughly. A little flour mixed with the meat keeps the fat 
from running out so freely when cooking the sausage. Stuff the 
sausage meat into prepared intestines or long narrow muslin bags. 
Dip the bags in melted lard and hang in a cool, dark place. Leave 
some in bulk to fry in little cakes, browning on each side. 

To Keep Saiisag-e. — To put away sausage for a relish next sum- 
mer, it should be fresh, nicely seasoned and rather fat. Stuff some 
in skins, fry, and coil around in sweet, clean earthen crocks, pour 
over them the boiling fat that comes out of them, and if that does 
not entirely cover, add boiHng lard. When cold tie paper or muslin 
over the top. Instead of stuffing, the sausage may be made in cakes, 
fried and put up in the same way, but it is apt to absorb more grease. 
To use, melt the fat from them, lift carefully with a fork into a drip- 
ping-pan, and set in the oven to crisp the skins. 

Bolog'iia Sausag-e. — Two pounds of lean pork, 2 pounds of lean 
veal, 2 pounds of lean beef, 2 pounds fat salt pork, 9 teaspoonfuls 
powdered sage, or summer savory, 2 tablespoonfuls each of parsley 



202 MEATS. 

and thyme, 4 teaspoonfuls of black pepper, 1 teaspoonful cayenne 
pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Chop or grind the meat very fine, 
season, mixing it well by running through the grinder again. Have 
well-cleaned beef intestines, fill, prick, tie, and boil gently for 1 hour. 
Take out the sausages and lay them to dry in the sun upon clean, 
sweet straw or hay. Rub the outside of the skins with melted butter 
or oil, and put them in a cool, dry cellar. Or they may be smoked 
the same as hams; slice for lunch or supper. If they are not smoked 
and yet are to be kept more than a week, rub ginger or pepper on the 
outside, wash off before using ; or pack the chopped meat in muslin 
cases 9 or 10 inches long and 4 wide ; tie securely and leave in a ham 
pickle 4 or 5 days; smoke for a week. Hang in a cool, dark place. 

Brine or Pickle for Corned Beef, Ham, Shoulder, or Mutton. 
— For 50 pounds of meat take 2 gallons of water, 4 pounds of salt, 
2 pounds of brown sugar, 1 ounce of saltpetre. Let boil 10 minutes, 
skim well, take from the fire and set aside until cold. Put the pieces 
of beef in a tub or small meat-cask and cover with brine, weight the 
meat under, cover the top, and set in a cool, dark place. Thus pre- 
pared the meat will keep a year. A piece of beef remaining in this 
a few days makes delicious corn-beef. If it remains in several weeks, 
it should be soaked over night before using. A round of beef put in 
this pickle 4 weeks and then dried slowly in a cool, dark place makes 
good dried beef. A handful of mace and cloves thrown into the brine 
will improve the flavor of the meat. If desired to give the meat a red 
color, four times as much saltpetre must be used. 

Pickling Hams. — A handy recipe for curing hams is this : Take 
4 quarts of salt, 4 ounces of saltpetre, 4 pounds of brown sugar dis- 
solved in water. Pack a hundredweight of hams closely together 
and pour this pickle over them, let them remain 10 days and then 
smoke. Cover the hams when smoked with canvas, dip in white- 
wash several times, allowing each coating to dry before another is 
added. Never let the fire for smoking meat start into a blaze, as heat 
will start the fat of meat and injure it. Before warm weather take the 
meat down, rub with pepper and molasses; hang up again and smoke. 
Repeat this several times and insects will not disturb the meat. Never 
pickle pork until 2 days after killing; sprinkle it lightly with saltpetre 
in the meantime to draw out the blood. Three months pickles it to 
perfection, but it can be smoked sooner. Cover the bottom of the 



MEATS. 203 

barrel with coarse salt, put in the hams first with the outside down ; 
sprinkle them on the flesh side with fine salt. Then the shoulders, 
and next the side pieces. Then turn on the pickle. 

Brine, to Renew. — If the brine becomes sour, or the pork tainted, 
turn off brine ; boil, skim well, pour back upon meat boiling hot. 

Dried Beef. — For every 20 pounds of beef take 1 pint of salt, 1 
teaspoonful of saltpeter, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. Mix 
well and divide into about 3 equal parts, and rub well into the beef on 
3 successive days. Keep it in a crock or kettle and turn each day for 
a week in the liquor it will make, then hang it up to dry. 

Corn Beef, to Flavor. — In boiling salt beef an excellent flavor 
may be imparted to it by the following methods : Mix a tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar with the same quantity of Worcester sauce and of stout 
(or beer) ; add a teaspoonful of dry mustard and a tablespoonful of 
brown sugar, a few cloves and allspice. Stir well together and let it 
remain until the sugar is dissolved. This mixture should be added 
to the water in which the beef is boiling, just before it is done. The 
beef must then be allowed to remain in the water until cold. 

What to Serve with Meats. 

Roast beef — grated horse-radish, Worcestershire sauce, pickles ; 
roast pork — apple sauce or cranberry sauce ; roast veal — tomatoes or 
mushroom sauce ; roast turkey or chicken — cranberry sauce ; roast 
mutton — currant jelly ; roast lamb — mint sauce ; roast goose — apple 
sauce, cranberry sauce or currant jelly ; corned beef — mustard ; 
boiled mutton — caper sauce ; boiled chicken — bread sauce ; boiled 
turkey — oyster sauce ; venison or wild ducks — black currant jelly, or 
currant jelly warmed or melted ; broiled fresh mackerel — stewed 
gooseberries ; boiled blue-fish — white " cream " sauce ; broiled shad 
— boiled rice and salad ; lemons ; compote of pigeons — mushroom 
sauce; fresh salmon — green peas, "cream" sauce; lobster — salad 
dressing ; sardines — sliced lemons ; fish in general — Worcestershire 
sauce; ham — mustard; cod-fish, fresh —oyster sauce; boiled beef — 
horse-radish ; rabbits — black currant jelly. 

Pickles are good with all roast meats — in fact with meats in gen- 
eral. Lemon juice is a pleasant addition to nearly all fish. Slices of 
lemon cut into very small dice and allowed to boil up in drawn but- 
ter is a fine accompaniment to fowls. 





(pLDA 



There is, jierhaps, no question thai comes 
before the housekeeper with more frequency 
than the disposal of the remnants of meat, fish 
and fowl in some appetizing fashion. The average servant 
usually refuses to see anything in them save " cold meat," and a 
too frequent appearance under this guise sometimes provokes a 
domestic mutiny. 

Now a little ingenuity is all that is needed to transform these 
despised fragments into dainty dishes that will tempt the most fasti- 
dious, and sometimes in summer are more appetizing than at their 
first appearance. There are many ways in which to use these left- 
over bits of meat besides making into hash, although this, when well 
made, is by no means to be despised. Thus the remnants from a 
meal should never be thrown away, but turned, instead, into dainty 
and healthful dishes. For making soup stock and curry powder, 
see " Department of Soups." 

Pieces of cold meat or fish may be divided into small pieces and 
warmed in a white or brown sauce, or the sauce and meat or fish may 
be put in a small baking-dish, covered with grated bread-crumbs, and 
then browned in the oven. Cold meat or fish may be hashed fine 
and mixed with potato, rice or hominy and a sauce, and made into 
croquettes. Tough pieces of meat and bones may be used in making 
little stews or a little soup stock. All kinds of meat can be com- 
bined in making a stew or soup. 

Pieces of bread may be used for puddings and griddle-cakes, and 
in the form of dried crumbs for breading. Pieces of cake and ginger- 
bread may be used in puddings. A few spoonfiils of almost any kind 
of meat, fish or vegetable may be heated in a sauce and spread over 
a plain omelet just before rolling it up, thus giving a change in this 
dish of eggs. Gravies, sauces and soups, no matter how small the 
quantity, should be saved to use in warming over meat, fish or vege- 
tables. See " Croquettes, Omelets, Fritters and Toasts " for other 
methods of serving " left-overs." 
204 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 205 

Beef Balls. — Mince very fine pieces of boiled or roast beef, mix 
with it cold mashed potatoes and one or two eggs. Season well, roll 
into little balls, dip in flour and fry in butter. 

Beef Pie. — Mince cold cooked beef or other meat, using fat and 
lean. Have very fine. Season with pepper and salt, chopped onion, 
and a little parsley, if liked. Moisten with gravy, or, if none is handy, 
use warm water in which has been melted a little butter. Fill patty- 
pans two-thirds full of this mince, and fill to the top with cold mashed 
potatoes. Put a bit of butter on each, and brown in a hot oven. 

Beef Patties. — Chop very fine the beef left from dinner. Add 
cracker crumbs, 1 small onion minced fine, salt and pepper and 1 egg. 
Make into balls and fry in butter. 

Wanned Over Beef with Potato Border. — Cut cold, rare roast 
beef (or any cold meat may be used) into pieces 1 inch in size; to 
every half pound of meat add 1 saltspoonful of salt, one-half salt- 
spoonful of pepper, 1 saltspoonful of celery salt, 1 teaspoonful of 
chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 saltspoonful of 
thyme ; mix well. Into a frying-pan put 2 tablespoonfuls of drip- 
pings, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, when heated stir 
well, and add gradually 1 pint of boiling water. 
If there is a little gravy or soup stock to be had 
add to this, reducing the amount of water used. 
Add the meat and seasoning, bring to a boil, put 
on a platter the meat with some gravy and ar- 
range the potatoes in a border around the meat, 
place in a rather hot oven, and when potatoes 
are slightly browned remove from oven and pour 
remaining gravy over the meat. 

Missouri Mince. — Nice for breakfast or dinner. Slice thinly or 
mince cold roast beef or pot roast, have some fat with it ; put into 
a small stewpan, with some onion, a little water, pepper, and salt; 
boil till the onion is done, and then add some of the gravy of the 
meat to it and the sliced meat; do not let it boil, have small hot dish 
with bits of bread ready and pour the mince into it, but first mix a 
large spoonful of vinegar with it. 

Cannelon of Beef. — Chop the remains of cold beef into small 
pieces with a small quantity of onions, two eggs lightly beaten, with 
salt to taste. Add any gravy you may have, or a little rich broth left 




206 



HASHES, COLD xMEATS, ETC. 



over from dinner. Roll pie crust into oblong sheets, place meat on 
it and roll. Close the ends with a cap of pastry, put in a hot oven 
and brown. 

Sliced Beef, or Other Meat. — Melt 1 ounce of butter with a 
spoonful of flour till smooth, dilute it gradually with half a pint of 
boiling stock, and stir it over the fire till thick ; then stir into it a tea- 
spoonful of made mustard, a teaspoonful of catsup, and a little pep- 
per; let this all get thoroughly hot. Meanwhile cut some nice slices 




The Old "Way. 



The New Way. 



of beef or mutton, or any brown meat, lay these in the sauce, and let 
them get thoroughly hot, but without boiling. Dish this neatly and 
garnish with little heaps of pickles and croutons of fried bread. 

Beef a la Hamburg-. — Take the Hamburg patties (Hamburg 
steak) left from dinner and put them in hot water on the stove and 
let them boil 10 minutes, stirring so as to break them apart thin ; skim 
out the meat and thicken with flour, and season with salt, pepper, and 
butter ; let that come to a boil and then turn on the beef; it is a very 
nice dish and not expensive, and is much used in both city and 
country at the present time. 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 207 

Beef Olives. — Cut the remains of cold roast beef into nice slices; 
crack the bones and stew them in a little water for an hour, with a 
dash of pepper and salt, then strain. Prepare a force-meat as follows : 
To every teacupful of grated bread add a small, finely-chopped onion, 
a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Moisten each slice of beef with 
a little gravy, cover with force-meat, roll rather tightly, and skewer. 
Place in a stew-pan, pour over the stock made from the bones, cover 
closely and simmer for an hour ; then take up carefully, remove the 
skewers, thicken the gravy with a little blended flour, which pour over 
the olives and serve. 

Beef Cakes. — Mince the meat very fine. Broil and mash pota- 
toes equal to one-third the quantity of the meat, mix them together 
thoroughly, season with pepper and a few sprigs of parsley minced. 
Add the beaten yolk of one egg to bind it. Wash and flour your 
hands. Make the mince into cakes about the size round of the top 
of a teacup, and fry them a nice brown in hot butter or beef drippings. 
Serve on a napkin with a garnish of fried celery. 

Western Scallop. — Bits of beef (steak, boiled or roast) chopped 
fine, and cold mashed potatoes seasoned well. Place a layer at the 
bottom of a dish, then a layer of the meat, another layer of potato, 
and continue alternately until the dish is filled. Strew bread or 
cracker crumbs upon it, moisten with hot milk in which a little butter 
has been melted, and bake half an hour. 

Cold Meat and Tomatoes. — Cut cold roast beef or mutton into 
thin slices ; dip each slice into flour, and dust with salt, pepper, and 
sweet herbs — thyme is very nice ; lay the slices into a deep dish and 
cover with gravy ; pour over a pint of stewed tomatoes to a 2 quart 
dish of meat ; add water to fill the dish, cover, and bake 2 or 3 hours. 

Cold Beef and Potato Scallop. — Take cold beef or veal, chop 
and season as for hash. Have ready mashed potatoes, seasoned as 
for table. Put in a shallow dish, first a layer of meat, then potatoes, 
until all is used. Smooth over the top of the potatoes. Make little 
holes. Fill them with pieces of butter. Bake until a nice brown. 

Frizzled Corned Beef. — Chop pieces of boiled corned beef, heat in 
the spider with some sweet milk, thicken with a little flour wet in 
cold milk, and when done pour into a deep dish in which is a piece 
of butter and 1 or more eggs, according to how much meat and milk 



208 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 

you have, beating the egg as you pour the hot h'quid on to it. Nice 
with baked potatoes. 

Irish Stew. — Cut the remains of cold roast beef into pieces about 
an inch square , crack the bones and put both beef and bones into a 
stew-pan, with any cold gravy that may be left, half a carrot sliced 
into rings, a small piece of turnip cut into dice, a finely chopped onion, 
2 or 3 cloves (when the flavor is liked), and salt and pepper to taste. 
Barely cover the whole with water, put on the lid, and stew gently 
for an hour; then add a quantity of potatoes which have been pre- 
viously peeled and cut into pieces (not too small) ; boil until the po- 
tatoes are cooked. Dish and serve. Another very nice dish may be 
made by preparing the meat as in the above recipe, but instead of 
adding the potatoes, thicken with a little flour. Make a wall of 
mashed potatoes in a dish, line with chopped carrots and turnips, 
Brussels sprouts or mashed parsnips. Pour the stew, after removing 
bones, into the center and serve. 

Bubble and Squeak. — Slice cold corn beef thin, season with pep- 
per; then saute with a little butter in a frying-pan. Brown some 
cold boiled cabbage in a frying-pan. Then make alternate layers in 
a well-buttered scallop dish, having the first and last layers of beef. 
Over this pour a sauce of melted butter, sliced cucumber pickle, and 
a bit of minced onion. Bake, and serve hot. 

Fricasseed Beef. — Cut cold roast beef in small pieces. Put in 
a stew-pan with lump of butter size of a walnut, and some finely 
minced onion. Season with salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little 
curry powder. Cover with water, and simmer 15 minutes. Thicken 
with a little flour, if necessary. Serve hot. 

Cottage Pie. — A good recipe for using cold meat : Take cold 
meat scraps. Chop fine, with a small onion, pinch of salt, and a little 
pepper. Place the meat in a deep dish, moistened with gravy or a 
little butter dissolved in boiling water. Boil and mash enough pota- 
toes to make a thick cover over the meat. Bake a light brown. Put 
a few bits of butter over the potatoes before putting them into the 
oven. 

"Veal and Ham Pie. — Cut about 1^/^ pounds of veal into thin 
slices, as also a quarter of a pound of boiled ham ; season the veal 
highly with pepper and salt, with which cover the bottom of the dish ; 
lay upon this a few slices of ham, then the remainder of the veal, 



HASHES. COLD MEATS, ETC. 209 

finishing with the remainder of the ham; add a wineglassful of water. 
Cover with a good paste, and bake. A bay leaf is an addition. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Cut cold beefsteak or other cold beef in small 
pieces. Peel and slice an equal amount of raw potatoes. Take a 
deep dish ; put in a layer of potatoes, then one of meat, and so on 
until the dish is filled. Season. Pour in a cupful of hot water with 
a small lump of butter dissolved in it, or a cupful of milk. Cover 
with a plain crust and bake 1 hour. A crust of mashed potatoes may 
may be used instead, dotting the top with bits of butter. 

Gravy for Hashes. — Break the bones of any cooked joint, and 
put them into a saucepan with any spare cuttings of meat you may 
have. Add a little pepper, salt, one-half a head of celery and a bou- 
quet of sweet herbs. Sufficient water to cover, simmer 2 hours. Cut 
a small onion into slices, fry it in a little butter, add it to the gravy 
and let it boil 15 minutes. Strain it into another stewpan, with 2 
tablespoonfuls of walnut catsup and a piece of butter rolled in flour ; 
boil it up and it will be ready for the meat. 

Corn Beef Hash. — Chop equal parts of corned beef and cold 
l)oiled potatoes separately until fairly fine. Mix thoroughly, but 
lightly. Heat through and brown slightly. Moisten with gravy or 
boiling water and a little butter. 

Hashed Beef. — Three cupfuls of cold beef or veal hashed fine, 
first freeing from sinew and skin. Mince 1 good-sized onion ; put in 
the frying pan with 1 tablespoonful of butter ; when beginning to 
color lightly add the meat. Season with salt and pepper; add a little 
powdered sage or thyme if liked. Moisten with boiling water, making 
whatever consistency is liked. Serve hot with buttered toast. 

Hash with Raw Potatoes. — This is very convenient when no 
cold potatoes are hand}', besides many people prefer it to hash made 
with potatoes already cooked. Chop the raw potatoes (first peeling) 
very fine ; put them, together with the minced meat, into a frying 
pan containing boiling water and butter. Season, and let cook until 
the potatoes are soft, adding boiling water from time to time as it is 
needed. Let cook down until quite dry, browning slightly, but do 
not burn. This makes a nice dish for a home dinner. 

Baked Hash. — Mince fine any pieces of cold cooked meat. To 
every pint of meat add 1 cup of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of 
butter, a sprig of parsley chopped, a little chopped onion (if the flavor 
14 



210 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 



is not disliked), a teaspoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, and a sea- 
soning of pepper and salt. Add sufficient gravy to moisten it thor- 
oughly, but not enough to make it sloppy. Just make it warm over 
the fire, mix well, and bake it in a hot oven 20 minutes. Nice for a 
home dinner. 

Hash Avitli Bread. — A good way to use up stale bread is to 
crumb it and mix with equal portions of finely-chopped cooked meat. 
Season with salt, pepper and onion juice, or minced onions. Moisten 
with milk and bake in a moderate oven till delicate brown. 

Creamed Hash. — Chop mutton, veal or beef as fine as for hash ; 
fry for a few moments in salt pork drippings. Take from the fire, 

and, in the same frying pan, make 
a rich cream gravy, if cream is a 
possibility; if not, use milk, thick- 
ening it with corn-starch, and add- 
ing a generous lump of butter. 
Pour half of the gravy into a pan 
over the fire; thin it with hot 
water; dip in it slices of well- 
browned toast ; lay the moistened 
toast upon a flat dish and set it 
in a warm place. Into the thick 
cream gravy put the minced meat; 
cook it 5 minutes; then spread it 
Double Mincing Knife. ^p^^ the toast. 

Apple Hash. — Two or 3 tart apples sliced ; put in a frying pan 
with a little water and butter ; cover and let cook a few minutes. 
Then put in hashed meat and potatoes. Season to taste ; cover, and 
let cook until the apples are soft. 

Hashed Meat on Toast. — Two cupfuls of chopped meat, half 
pint of soup stock, gravy or boiling water, with a tablespoonful of 
butter melted in it. Season to taste, mix altogether, and put in a 
stew pan, cover and simmer for half an hour. Toast six small slices 
of bread, and arrange upon a warm platter. Spread the hash upon 
them, and serve at once. 

Veal Pates. — Chop the remains of veal with a little ham ; season 
well ; add gravy and a little oyster liquor. Heat almost to boiling 
and set by, covered, where it will keep warm. Butter patty pans, 




HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. . 211 

line with paste and bake. Slip the shells on to a hot dish, fill with 
the mince, sprinkle with crumbs on top and brown lightly. 

Miuced Veal. — Put the bones of a cold fillet or loin of veal, or 
any other bones you may have, into a stewpan with the skin and 
trimmings of the meat. Dredge in a little flour, pour in a pint of 
water, a small onion, sliced, a bouquet of sweet herbs, white pepper 
and salt to taste. Simmer these ingredients for an hour, then strain 
the gravy and thicken it with an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; boil 
it up again and skim well. While the gravy is cooking, mince 2 or 3 
cupfuls of veal, but not too fine. When the gravy is ready put it in 
and warm it gradually; add a teaspoonful of lemon juice and 3 table- 
spoonfuls of milk or cream. Do not let it boil. Pile the mince in 
the centre of the dish, and garnish with squares of toasted bread and 
points of lemon. Place 3 nicely poached eggs on top, and the result 
will be a pretty as well as nice dish for the table. 

Veal a la Princess. — Two cupfuls of minced veal; 1^ cups of 
milk ; 1 tablespoonful of flour ; 1 tablespoonful of butter, creamed 
with the flour ; 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley ; salt and pepper. 
Heat the milk and pour over the butter and flour. Stir smooth and 
turn over the veal. Let boil up and serve. This may be varied by 
arranging slices of hot toast on a platter, the minced veal over them. 
Cold fowl may be treated in the same manner. 

Veal a la Bombay. — Cut neat slices of cold roast veal. Fry a 
sliced onion in butter until it is a delicate brown. Then in the same 
pan fry a spoonful or more, according to the amount of meat, of curry 
powder. Dilute this all with some soup stock and let stew gently 
with a sliced tomato and a tablespoonful of roiix (flour and butter 
creamed together), until the sauce is quite thick. Then lay in the 
slices of veal and let it stand on one side of the stove to keep very 
warm, but not boil. Make a wall around a dish of hot boiled rice, 
boiled quite dry and seasoned with considerable butter and a little 
cayenne pepper. Pour the veal and sauce into the center of this and 
serve. In dishing out, give a little of the rice with every portion of 
the meat. This is very nice without the rice. 

Deviled Veal. — Cut thin slices of roast veal, broil on hot coals, 
season with pepper, salt and a little mustard. Serve hot with a lump 
of butter on each slice. 

Deviled Beef — This is prepared same as Deviled Veal, 



212 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 

Cold Veal Cutlets. — Cold cutlets are also very nice, if trimmed, 
dipped in egg or warm butter and seasoned bread-crumbs, lightly 
broiled, and dished round a ragout of cucumber or any other vege- 
table at hand. 

Kag-out of Veal. — Cut cold cooked veal in neat slices. Fry in 
butter to a light brown. Take up and pour a little hot water in the 
pan. Roll a bit of butter large as a nutmeg in flour and thicken the 
gravy with it. If not sufficient, add more flour. Season with salt, 
pepper and a little lemon-juice, or catsup. Put in the meat and let 
get very hot. Serve. An onion may be sliced in instead of the lemon. 

Jellied Haiu. — Chop equal parts of cold ham and cooked veal, 
until you have a quart; then season highly with French mustard and 
cayenne. Put a piece of butter in the skillet. When hot, stir in 
the ham and veal ; add one egg, well beaten, and a tablespoonful of 
gelatine, the gelatine having previously been dissolved in cold water. 
Stir thoroughly and put into moulds that have been dipped in water. 
Set on ice or in a very cool place to get firm. The mould can be 
lined with circular slices of hard-boiled egg, if desired. A very nice 
dish for luncheon or tea. Slice it and garnish the plate with thinly 
sliced lemon or sprigs of parsley, or both. Almost any meat can be 
served in this way, and more than one kind can be used at a time, if 
the various remnants are at hand. 

Westphalia Loaves. — Mix one-half pound well-chopped, cooked 
ham with 1 pound of mealy potatoes, well mashed ; add a spoonful 
of butter, a little milk or cream and 2 eggs ; make into small balls 
and fry like fish-balls ; serve with brown gravy ; very nice. Two 
cupfuls of ham (chopped) to twice as much potato, will be about equal 
to the above proportions. 

Curried Ham. — Chop the meat fine, being careful to remove any 
pieces of gristle and fat. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a sauce- 
pan, when hot add a tablespoonful of flour, cook until smooth, but 
not brown, add gradually a cup of rich milk, stirring constantly; add 
the chopped ham, seasoned highly with red pepper (curry powder, if 
liked) and a little salt. Let the meat get thoroughly hot and serve. 
A beaten egg may be added, making a pleasant variety. 

Ham and Macaroni. — Chop pieces of boiled ham, boil macaroni 
in salted water, place in deep dish, first chopped ham, then macaroni, 
and so on until dish is nearly full; roll cracker fine, or crumbs, cover 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 213 

top of dish and place over that thin slices of cheese. Bake for half 
an hour. 

Ham ou Potatoes. — Chop bits of cold broiled or boiled ham 
very fine ; cut cold boiled potatoes into thick, even slices and fry until 
nicely browned on both sides ; lay on a hot platter and season with 
pepper and salt and bits of butter ; between each layer sprinkle a little 
of the chopped ham and set in the oven to heat through. 

Haiu Patties. — Take scraps of ham that are left over, and with 
one good-sized onion, chopped fine, for 1 pound of chopped ham, add 
1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of dry mustard, a little pepper. Make up into 
balls and fry. 

Ham and Tomatoes. — A savory breakfast dish is made from ripe 
tomatoes and a little cold boiled or broiled ham. Chop the ham fine, 
and use from a half-cup to a cupful, and put it in a saucepan with 
three firm tomatoes peeled and cut in slices. Add a half-tablespoon- 
ful of butter, and cook a few minutes, then add 2 raw eggs. Mix 
thoroughly, and cook until the eggs are set; season with red pepper, 
and serve on well-browned toast, sprinkled with chopped parsley, if 
parsley is liked. 

Scalloped Ham. — Beat 1 egg with 1 tablespoonful of melted 
butter ; chop bits of cold cooked ham ; butter a dish or pan, and lay 
in it a layer of cold boiled and sliced potatoes, sprinkle them with 
pepper and salt, then put a layer of the ham, another of potatoes, and 
so on till the dish be full, finishing wirh the potatoes. Pour over 
this half a pint of milk, stand the dish in the oven and bake quickly. 
Two or three kinds of meat remnants can be used at the same time 
in this dish, and any kind of meat can be used instead of ham. 

Deviled Ham. — Fry slices of cold ham. Keep warm while stir- 
ring in the gravy 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar mixed with 1 teaspoon- 
ful of mustard, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, and half teaspoonful of 
catsup. Let boil up and turn over the ham. 

Minced Mutton or Lamb. — Cut the meat into nice square pieces, 
and stew them for an hour, then strain off the stock and add to it 1 
large Spanish onion, cut not too finely; simmer for 20 minutes, then 
add 1 pint of new milk, with seasoning to taste, thicken with 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of blended flour, add the meat and allow to get thoroughly 
hot, but do not boil. Pour into a deep dish and serve with mashed 
potatoes. Veal can be minced in the same manner. 



214 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 

Haricot of Mutton. — Take cold mutton, cut into slices and lay 
in a deep saucepan, then put in 1 onion, 1 small turnip, 2 potatoes, 1 
carrot, all cut into small pieces. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper. 
Cover with cold water and boil slowly 1 hour, then add 2 spoons of 
flour mixed with cold water and boil 1 hour longer. Turn on to a 
platter, around the edge of which arrange alternately little piles of 
mashed potato and boiled rice, with a tiny sprig of parsley, between 
each, as a garnish. 

Frizzled Mutton. — This is taken from the left-overs of the mutton 
of the day before. Shave it in very thin slices, and put a tablespoon - 
ful of butter into a frying pan, put in the slices, and toss them for a 
moment, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix, pour over a half pint of 
milk, bring to a boiling point, and serve. With this course serve the 
buckwheat cakes. 

Cold Sliced Mutton. — Cut thin slices from the cold mutton, trim 
free from gristle and fat. Arrange on a dish, garnish with cress and 
currant jelly. 

Lamb Pie. — Cut cold lamb in slices. Season lightly. Alternate 
slices of cold potatoes with the lamb. Moisten with strong stock in 
which an onion has been boiled. Put pastry on sides and top of pan. 
Bake 20 or 30 minutes. 

Haslied Mutton — Cut cold mutton in bits. If rare so much 
better. Boil the bones and rough trimmings of the meat in enough 
water to cover, strain the gravy into a sauce pan, add the mutton 
and any left-over cold vegetables, such as carrots, turnips or potatoes, 
first slicing, together with a little chopped onion. A ripe tomato 
sliced in is an improvement. Let simmer and finally boil up. Any 
kind of meat can be served in same manner. 

Noodles and Meat Stew. — Cut any kind of cold meat in mod- 
erately small pieces, add gravy, soup stock or boiling water and 
butter, sufficient to make about a quart of liquor, and to this add 
either noodles or dumplings, and the result will be a dish for dinner 
that all will relish. 

Savory Tongue. — Cut the tongue in very thin slices after peeling 
it, and then in very small bits. Put a layer of thick tomato sauce in 
the bottom of the dish, and fill it up with bits of tongue. Add a 
mere pinch of cayenne pepper, a pinch of minced parsley and also of 
minced onion. Put a layer of the tomato sauce on top. Sprinkle a 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 



215 



{cw fine bread crumbs over the dish and bake in a hot oven for 10 or 
15 minutes. If onion is not Hked, omit. 

Veal Terrapin. — Odds and ends of mutton, veal, pork, beef, Hver, 
or all together: cut into dice, size of peas ; liver is much the best; 
add to the dice 1 
small tablespoon of 
flour, 1 tablespoon 
made mustard, one- 
fourth teaspoon cay- 
enne, one-fourth tea- 
spoon clove ; add 
gravy and a scant 
cup of boiling water ; 
keep well covered ; 
put where it will not 
boil, but be just at 
the boiling point; 
just before serving 
add 2 chopped hard- 
boiled eggs, butter 




Family Hopper for Chopping Meats. 



size of an egg, wine-glass of cider or vinegar, serve with slices of lemon. 

Deviled Cliicken. — Chop very fine any pieces of cold cooked 
chicken that may be left. To every pint of this meat allow one-half 
pint of cream, a tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one- 
quarter nutmeg, grated. Salt and cayenne to taste. Put the butter 
in a frying-pan to melt; then add the bread-crumbs, cream, chicken 
and seasoning. Stir over the fire until it boils ; then add the hard- 
boiled eggs chopped very fine. Fill paper cases or individual dishes 
with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs and brown in a 
quick oven. 

Scalloped Turkey. — Chop the remains of chicken or turkey, put 
a layer of bread-crumbs in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer 
of oysters, a layer of chopped turkey or chicken, then another layer 
of bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and so on, until you have used all 
up. Have the top layer crumbs. Pour over all a cream sauce (half 
pint), and bake in a moderately quick oven 25 minutes. If there is 
any gravy thin it and pour over, instead of cream sauce. 



216 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 

Fricassee of Cold Koast Fowl. — Take the remnants of 2 roasted 
fowls and cut them up. Put all the trimmings and bones of the legs 
into a stew-pan, with the peel of half a lemon, a bouquet of sweet 
herbs, a little pepper and salt and about a pint of water. Let stew 
gently until reduced to half the quantity. Cut the remainder of the 
fowl into joints, strain the gravy and put in the fowl. When 
thoroughly hot beat up an egg, mix with a quarter of a pint of 
cream, and stir it gradually into the gravy. Make it very hot, but do 
not let it boil. Milk can be used instead of cream. If eggs are not 
convenient, thicken with a little corn-starch blended with a little cold 
water. 

Petits Pains. — These can be made of fish or any kind of white 
meat. Cut into small bits the remainders of some cold veal or 
chicken, and mix with the following sauce : Boil a pint of milk with 
a shred of onion and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg. Thicken 
with a teaspoonful of flour mixed with a little cold milk. Have 
ready 6 or 8 quite small dinner rolls, cut off the tops and scoop out 
most of the crumb, butter the inside of the rolls, and when the pre- 
pared mixture is cold, fill them with it. Arrange on a dish and gar- 
nish with parsley. 

Fisli Flakes. — Two cupfuls of cold cooked, nicely-flaked fish. 
Make the following sauce: Roll a piece of butter, the size of an egg, 
thoroughly in flour, and dissolve in one-half cupful of hot water in a 
sauce-pan ; add 1 dessert-spoonful each of mixed mustard and pep- 
per sauce, and 1 cupful of cream or rich milk; put in the fish flakes, 
heat well and serve; or pour in a buttered dish, cover thickly with 
bread-crumbs, dot with bits of butter and brown the top in the oven. 
A very nice way of serving remnants offish. 

Turbot a la Crenie. — Take the left-over bits of fish from dinner, 
with 2 silver forks pick it to pieces ; remove all skin and bone. Dress- 
ing — One quart of milk, one-half onion, pinch of thyme, a little pars- 
ley; let simmer slowly to extract the flavor; add 2 tablespoons of 
flour, 2 tablespoons of butter. Strain through a hair-sieve on to the 
beaten yolks of 3 eggs ; beat into half the dressing the fish ; put into 
a buttered baking-dish ; sprinkle over top grated bread-crumbs and a 
little grated cheese ; bake in a quick oven until lightly browned on top. 

Wonders. — Take any bits of cold meat and chop fine ; take half 
as much potatoes as meat and the same of bread, broken fine; 



HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 217 

moisten the bread with hot water ; a good tablespoon of flour made 
into a smooth paste ; 2 or 3 eggs beaten well, and any cold gravies 
that may be left over; season well; beat them all together for 5 
minutes; drop from the spoon into a hot, greased spider. 

liuncheoii Salad (Boiled Meat). — Soup meat may be utilized in 
numberless savory ways. Chopped fine and seasoned with salt, cloves, 
pepper, vinegar and a little onion and lemon juice, it makes a nice 
salad for luncheon. A good breakfast dish may be made by stewing 
the left-over soup meat in a little tomato catsup and serving on slices 
of buttered toast. 

Salmi of CMckeii. — Take minced cold chicken and moisten well 
with drawn butter, using celery, salt and pepper for seasoning and 
heating the whole. Cover the bottom of the baking-dish with bread 
crumbs; add to the chicken a beaten egg, and lemon juice to flavor, 
and pour into tlie dish. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the top, together 
with pieces of butter, and bake to a nice brown. The baking-dish 
should be covered. 

Chicken Duinpliiig's. — Mince remnants of cold chicken, and put, 
with seasoning, and one-half cupful of liquor from boiled chickens or 
other soup stock, into a sauce-pan. Let boil gently. Thicken with 
1 tablespoonful of flour wet in a little cold water. Afterward add 1 
beaten egg. Stir until it thickens. Pour out and let cool. Flour 
the hands and make into balls. Roll in cracker-dust; dip in beaten 
egg; then dip again in bread-crumbs and fry in hot lard. 

Deviled Cold Meat. — Cut cold meat into dice. Put a scant 
tablespoonful of butter into a frying-pan ; when hot add 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of stale bread-crumbs; fry until brown; add the meat — a pint, a 
half teaspoonful of dry mustard, a dash of cayenne and a sprinkling 
of salt. When the meat is thoroughly heated, add the yolks of 2 
iiard-boiled eggs mashed fine, a half cup of stock, or water; let boil 
up once, and serve very hot. Buttered toast should be served 
with it. 

Ham Mince with Eg-gs. — Mix 2 cupfuls of cracker-crumbs with 
an equal amount of finely-minced, lean boiled ham. Moisten with a 
little hot water, with a small piece of butter dissolved in it. Put this 
mixture in a broad, shallow baking-dish. Make depressions in it, 
and in each of these break -an egg. Bake until the eggs are cooked. 
Any other meat hash may be served the same way. 




cause sorrow 
and strife; 
Beat ivith a spoon ivill make heavy soon ; 
Beat with a fork xvill make light as a cork." 
^' In shaking an egg, if it makes sound, it is not a good 

Qgg, ^nd should be rejected. The water test consists in 
putting them in water deep enough to cover ; the " good 
eggs" will lie flat at the bottom, while the "bad eggs" will stand up- 
right, like many other unsound things in the world. The "candling'' 
process consists in looking through the Qgg at a light, or holding it 
between you and the sun. If it shows up clear and spotless, so that 
the yolk can be perceived, it is good ; otherwise it is not. " They 
say, " when 4 ounces of salt are dissolved in 40 ounces of water, an tgg 
a day old will sink to the bottom ; one 2 days' old will nearly reach 
the bottom ; three days' old will float near the top, and 5 or more days 
old will project above the surface more and more as it becomes older. 
Eggs should be broken separately into a saucer or cup, as one bad 
one will spoil all the others. 

Packing- Eg-g-s. — Dry packing has many advocates. It consists 
simply in packing eggs in salt, putting the small end downward, and 
seeing that the eggs do not touch each other. Bran and saw-dust are 
also used. The tops must be covered thickly, and the whole set away 
in a cool, dark place. Before packing in this way, some smear the 
shells with butter or lard. Nail on the cover of the box, and keep 
in a cool place. When wanted for use take off the bottom cover so 
as to use the eggs packed first. Be sure the eggs are clean when 
packing, and the salt can be used over again. Eggs packed for eight 
months in this manner have been found perfectly fresh. Set the boxes 
or kegs upon sticks that there may be a free circulation of air. 

Brine fox* Eggs. — One pint of fresh, air-slaked lime, 1 pint of salt, 
4 gallons of water. Rubb the eggs with lard, or dip in melted tallow, 
and put in this brine, small end down. Put in the eggs in such quan- 
tities as may be convenient. This amount of brine will cover 200 
218 



EGGS. 



219 




eggs. The last of July or first of August is a good time to begin 
packing. 

Poached Eg-g-s. — Poached is one of the most delicate and digesti- 
ble ways to cook an egg. The slightly salted water should be at the 
boiling point, but not boiling. That tears the white to pieces and makes 
" rags " of it. The egg broken first in a saucer or cup, should be slid 
easily in, and the hot water heaped over the yolk as it cooks, to hasten 

its covering while it is still soft. A 

_ flat perforated cream skimmer is the 

'"" best utensil to take out the egg, and 

it should reach the table on a square 

of hot toast from which the crusts 

are cut, and which has been dipped 

Egg Poacher. in hot water and buttered, and on a 

hot plate, 30 seconds from the moment of leaving the water. French 

cooks poach eggs in a ball by giving the water a rapid rotary motion 

with a fork and dropping the egg in the centre of this swirl. 

If toast is not used, take up the eggs on a hot platter. Sprinkle 
with pepper and salt, and dot with bits of butter. A tablespoonful of 
vinegar in the water helps the salt to set the whites quickly. Egg 
poachers are sold that can be buttered and have 1 egg dropped in each 
compartment, and then half a dozen at a time can be immersed in the 
boiling water, thus keeping them in shape. In the absence of these 
drop muffin- rings, buttered, in the bottom of the same pan, and break 
an egg in each one. By the exercise of a little care, however, the 
eggs can be nicely poached without any of these aids. 

Poached Eg-g-s with Gravy. — Poach as above ; lay each egg on 
a slice of softened, buttered toast, and turn a hot gravy over the whole. 
Eggs Boiled in the Shell. — Have in a saucepan as much hard 
boiling water as will surely cover the eggs when put in. In this man- 
ner they will cook evenly. Put them in all at the same time, if possi- 
ble, leave them in 3 minutes and a half Put them on the dish cov- 
ered with a folded napkin, as, if they are eaten one by one in the shell, 
those left in the dish will in this manner be kept warm. Eggs must 
be eaten as soon as cooked. Boilin-::^ 3 minutes leaves them very soft; 
5 minutes will harden the white. Some authorities recommend put- 
ting the eggs in a saucepan and pouring boiling water over them. 
Cover the dish tight, and set back where the water will keep hot, but 



220 EGGS. 

not boil. Let it stand 10 minutes. The effect is quite different from 
that produced by boiling, both the flavor and texture of the egg be- 
ing vastly superior to an egg boiled in the usual manner. 

Fried Eggs. — Melt a spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and let 
it get hot without coloring ; slip into this four eggs, broken separately 
in a saucer, and baste them with the butter until the whites begin to 
set. Some very good cooks put into the pan a few drops of olive oil 
instead of butter, and the moment the egg is " set," turn it quickly 
over with a pancake turner, and let it just "set" on the other side. 
A very little butter can be used in the same way. The eggs can be 
laid on a folded napkin, to absorb every particle of fat. 

Smothered Eggs. — Put not quite as much hot butter and lard, or 
ham dripping, in a pan as for frying eggs in the ordinary way. Break 
the eggs to be used on a plate, and when the fat is hot slip them into 
the frying-pan evenly, not on one side, or the grease will slip out 
from under, and they will stick to the pan. Sprinkle with pepper and 
salt. Pour over them a teacupful of boiling water. Cover quickly 
with a close fitting lid. Let them steam 4 or 5 minutes, or more, 
according to the degree of hardness required. They will be found 
nicely whitened over the top, like eggs that have been dropped in 
boiling water, and much more palatable than those poached without 
fat. 

Steamed Eg^gs. — Butter a deep pie tin, and break carefully into 
it as many eggs as are needed. Sprinkle them with pepper, salt and 
bits of butter; place in a steamer over boiling water until done. This 
will be found better than poaching them, especially if cooked for an 
invalid, as they are lighter and more tender. They may be steamed 
thus in individual pattypans, and will keep in better shape. 

Griddled Eggs. — Heat the griddle almost as much as for griddle 
cakes. Butter it lightly and place upon it as many e^gs as you 
desire to cook. When they become slightly browned, turn them with 
a cake turner. They will get sufficiently cooked in about a minute 
and a half. This is a delicate way of frying eggs. 

Baked Eggs. — Break the eggs carefully into a buttered dish. 
Sprinkle with pepper and salt. Put a bit of butter on each, and bake 
until the whites are well set. They may also be broken into indivi- 
dual egg cases, or into buttered gem tins, seasoned and baked. A 
great variety of flavors can be given baked eggs. Two drops of 



EGGS. 221 

lemon juice, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, will 
change the flavor of the egg. A little boiled ham, chopped fine, or 
grated cheese, will give still other flavors. 

Creamed Egrg"s. — Boil some eggs hard, cut them in slices, and 
season each slice with a little pepper, salt and grated nutmeg. Lay 
the slices on a dish, cover with a hot drawn butter sauce, sprinkle 
with chopped parsley and serve Ten to 12 minutes will boil eggs 
hard enough to slice. 

Boiled Eggs with Cream Sauce. — Boil eggs enough for the 
family, 20 minutes ; split them lengthwise, put them in a deep dish 
and pour over cream sauce. 

Cream Sauce for Boiled Eg-g-s. — One pint of cream or rich milk; 
for cream 1 heaping tablespoon of butter, you must use twice as much 
butter if you use milk; 1 generous tablespoon of flour; salt and 
white pepper to taste; let cream come to a boil, have the flour mixed 
smoothly with half a cup of cold cream reserved from the pint; stir 
it into the boiling cream and boil 3 minutes ; pour over the eggs and 
serve. 

Scrambled Eggs. — For 5 persons take 8 eggs, beat them well, 
then add 8 tablespoonfuls of milk and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. 
Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan, and when it is hot 
pour in the eggs, stir carefully from the bottom until they thicken. 
They should be taken from the fire while still soft enough to run, as 
they cook a few seconds longer, and even retain a hardening heat on 
their way to the table, all of which must be allowed for. Cream may 
be used instead of milk. 

Scrambled Eggs with Bacon. — Fry thin strips of bacon until 
almost done, then add 8 or 10 well-beaten eggs, seasoned with pep- 
per ; 4 tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook all together. Serve hot. 

Scalloped Eggs. — Place a layer of stale bread crumbs in the bot- 
tom of a buttered dish, and pour over enough sweet cream to moisten. 
Slice hard-boiled eggs, and put a layer with plentiful dots of butter, 
and a little salt and pepper. Continue alternate layers till the dish is 
full. Sift crumbs over the top, dot with bits of butter, and set in the 
oven to bake. 

Eggs in Scallop Shells. — Have some ham or tongue chopped 
very fine; add to it a few bread crumbs, pepper, chopped parsley and 
some melted butter. Moisten with milk to make a soft paste, and 



222 EGGS. 

half-fill some patty pans or scallop shells with the mixture. Break 
an egg carefully on each, and put a pinch of salt on them and sprinkle 
cracker dust over this. Place the shells in a pan, and put in a mod- 
erate oven and bake until the white is set. 

Coliiiiibus Eggs. — Peel the shells from a dozen hard-boiled eggs, 
and cut each egg in two around the centre, cutting off also a little 
piece from one end so that they can stand on end as did the famous 
egg which Columbus handled; pulverize the yolks and mix with some 
finely minced chicken, smoked tongue or lean ham ; moistening with 
a little fresh butter or vinegar, and seasoning to the ta.ste with salt, 
pepper and mustard. Fill with this the empty whites, taking care 
not to break them ; press the two parts together and stand on a plat- 
ter so that they will have the appearance of eggs that have not been 
dissected. The filling which remains over and above the capacity of 
the whites of the eggs to accommodate may be made into a dressing 
by adding a little vinegar to it and pouring over the eggs. If no 
sauce is used, set each egg in one of the inside leaves of lettuce. 

Eg-g- Baskets. — Boil eggs hard, shell and cut neatly in half. Re- 
move the yolks and rub them to a paste with melted butter, pepper 
and salt. Chop very fine the meat of cold fowl, ham, dried beef or 
veal, and mix with the egg paste. Cut off a slice from the hollow 
white to make them stand, fill with the paste, arrange close together 
on a flat dish and pour over them a gravy heated boiling hot, or cream 
sauce. If to be served with cold meats, omit the gravy and garnish 
with parsley. Nice for lunch or parties. Potted ham and tongue 
that comes put up in small tins also make a very nice force-meat for 
stuffing eggs. After the eggs are filled some fasten together the two 
halves with Japanese toothpicks, roll in bread crumbs and fry a light 
brown, but this is not necessary. 

Stufted Eggs. — Cut 6 hard-boiled eggs in two, lengthwise, and, 
removing the yolks, chop them fine, then add 2 teaspoonfuls of butter, 
a teaspoonful of cream, and very little finely-chopped onion ; salt and 
pepper to taste ; mix all together, and, after filling the white of the 
egg with the mixture, put them together with Japanese toothpicks. 

Salad Eggs. — Boil 6 eggs 20 minutes. Drop them into cold 
water before removing the shells. Cut into halves, remove the yolks 
and rub smooth with 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mus- 
tard and salt. Add vinegar until soft, and put back into the whites 
again. 



EGGS. 223 

Fricasseed Eggs. — Boil 6 eggs for 15 minutes. Remove the 
shells, take out the yolks, cut the whites into dice. Put a teaspoon- 
ful of butter in a frying pan, and set on the fire to melt. Add a 
tablespoonful oi flour, stir until brown, thin with a teacupful of cream, 
season with salt and pepper. Put in the whites of the eggs, stir over 
the fire until it comes to a boil, add the yolks ; let stand 1 minute and 
serve very hot. Milk can be used instead of egg. 

Poached Eg-g-s, Spanish Style. — Heat an earthen pan slowly, 
and melt in it a tablespoonful of butter; add a teaspoonful of salt, a 
smaller quantity of pepper, and a small onion minced very fine ; or, 
instead of the onion, use parsley and sweet herbs or a combination of 
all together. Drop in the eggs 1 at a time ; do not stir, but let them 
brown a little ; turn carefully and brown on the other side. In Spain 
and Mexico they are served in the dish in which they are cooked and 
as hot as possible. 

Spanish Scrambled Eg-g-s. — Cut up 2 fresh tomatoes with half 
an onion chopped very fine. Cook with a little butter and pepper 
and salt till the onion is cooked, but not browned. Add 4 beaten 
eggs, and stir constantly till the eggs are well set. Serve with little 
pieces of fried bread around the dish. 

Egg- Nests. — Beat whites of 4 eggs stiff Toast 4 slices of bread, 
dip them quickly in hot water, and spread lightly with butter. Pile 
the whites on toast in shape of 
nest ; place a yolk in the centre 
of each, and bake 3 minutes. 
Season whites with a little salt 
before beating. Very nice. Sensible Egg Whip. 

Pickled Eggs — Boil hard, remove the shell and cover with boil- 
ing hot vinegar. Let it stand 12 hours, and they are ready for use. 
Some cut the eggs in halves lengthwise. Nice for picnics, lunch, etc. 

Curried Eggs. -Boil 4 eggs half an hour, remove the shells and 
slice egg~i into a shallow dish; fry 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion in 
a tablespoonful of butter, being careful not to burn ; add 1 heaping 
tablespoonful of flour and one-half tablespoonful of curry powder, 
pour on slowly 1 cup of milk, season with salt and pepper and a 
piece of butter the size of a walnut, simmer until onions are soft, 
then pour the mixture over the sliced eggs, cover with a layer of 
bread crumbs, brown in the oven and serve hot, 




224 EGGS. 

Soft Eg-gr Curry. — Melt 1 ^ ounces of butter in a pan with a 
small onion cut into rings; as the latter browns add ateaspoonful of 
curry powder. Beat gradually, stirring occasionally for nearly an 
hour; then add 3 tablespoonfuls of milk and a good pinch of minced 
parsley. Stir for 2 or 3 minutes and add the well-beaten yolks of 2 
eggs. Just before serving add the whites beaten quite stiff. 

Deviled Egg-.s. — Remove the shells from hard-boiled eggs ; cut 
about one-third from the small end of each. Take out the yolks, 
mash with the pieces of whites and season highly with salt, pepper, 
mustard, a tablespoonful of melted butter (salad oil if preferred), and 
a little vinegar. Mix thoroughly and fill into the cavities left by the 
yolks. Fill it all in, heaping each egg up well. Set each one on a 
lettuce leaf, and stand close together on a pretty flat dish. Very 
ornamental for lunch or evening party. Cut off a slice from the 
whites that they may stand firmly. 

Egg- Vermicelli. — Boil 6 eggs 20 minutes. Make 1 pint of cream 
sauce, to which add whites of eggs, cut up in fine pieces. Place 6 
slices of toast on a platter, on which pour the cream sauce nicely 
seasoned. Rub yolks through a strainer over the sauce and garnish 
with parsley. 

Cupped Eggs, — Put a spoonful of good, highly-seasoned brown 
gravy into each cup, and set the cups in a saucepan of boiling water. 
When the gravy has become thoroughly heated drop a fresh egg into 
each cup. Take off the saucepan and cover it until the eggs are 
tenderly cooked, put on pepper and salt and serve on a hot platter 
covered with a napkin. 

Breakfast Custards. — Butter 6 custard cups and fill lightly with 
soft bread crumbs and any nice cold meat, chopped fine, with plenty 
of savory seasoning, such as the family like, half and half. Beat 3 
eggs; add 1 cupful milk, pour into the cups, using more milk if 
required; set the cups in a pan of water and bake (or steam) until 
firm in the centre. Serve in the cups, or turn out on a platter. These 
savory custards are delicious m.ade entirely out of bread crumbs and 
seasonings, omitting the meat. 

Sour Eggs (German Style). — One tablespoonful butter, 1 table- 
.spoonful flour stirred into the butter in a hot saucepan until well 
browned, half teacup vinegar filled up with water. Salt and pepper 
to taste. Pour into the browned flour and let boil up. Break the 



EGGS. 225 

eggs in, one at a time, until the pan is full. Baste the top with this 
gravy until the eggs are cooked, either hard or soft, according to the 
taste. 

Houeycoinb Eg-g-s. — We have an excellent recipe for a breakfast 
dish of eggs, which is as follows : Put a piece of butter the size of an 
egg into a dish, set in the oven to heat. Break six eggs into a bowl ; 
add one-third teacupful sweet cream, heat well ; add a little salt. 
Pour into the hot dish with the butter; bake in a hot oven about 16 
minutes, or until it is all light and like honeycomb. 

Eg-gs a la Mode. — Soak a pint of bread crumbs in a pint of milk. 
Beat 8 eggs very light, add the soaked bread crumbs, and heat 5 
minutes. Have ready a saucepan in which are heated 2 tablespoonfuls 
of butter ; pour in the mixture, season with salt and pepper ; stir 
briskly for 3 minutes ; serve on squares of buttered toast. 

Eg-gs on Rice. — Butter a baking dish and fill it three-quarters full 
of cold rice which was seasoned with salt and butter when boiled. 
Make as many depressions in the rice as there are persons to be 
served. Break an egg into each depression, sprinkle with salt and 
strew with bits of butter. Bake until the eggs are set. Serve hot. 

Ham and. Eggs Baked. — Half pound of cracker or bread crumbs 
and half pound of lean, minced meat, mix, moisten with a little water 
and butter. Put the mixture in a broad shallow baking dish. Make 
little depressions in it, and break an egg in each depression. Bake a 
pale brown in a hot oven. 

Minced Eggs. — Chop up 4 or 5 hard-boiled, not too fine. Put 
over the fire in a suitable dish a cupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, salt and pepper, and some savory chopped fine. When this 
comes to a boil, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth 
in a little cold milk. When it is cooked smooth like cream, put in 
the eggs, stir until heated through, and serve. Any particular flavor 
may be given to this dish by adding minced mushrooms, truffles 
catsup, essence of shrimps, etc. 

Beauregard Eggs, — Five eggs, 1 tablespoon of corn starch, 5 
squares of toast, half pint of milk, a lump of butter the size of a wal- 
nut, salt and pepper to taste. Cover the eggs with boiling water and 
boil for 20 minutes. Take off their shells, chop the whites fine and 
rub the yolks through a sieve. Do not mix them. Now put the 
milk on to boil, rub the butter and corn-starch together, and add to 
15 



226 EGGS. 

the boiling- milk. Now add the whites, salt and pepper. Put the 
toast on a hot dish, cover it with a layer of this white sauce, then the 
layer of the yolks, then the remainder of the whites. Sprinkle the 
top with a little salt and pepper. Stand in the oven for a minute or 
two and serve. 

Breaded Eg'g's. — Boil hard and cut in round, thick slices. Sea- 
son with pepper and salt. Dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine 
bread crumbs and fry in hot butter. Drain free from grease, and 
serve with a sauce made by boiling up together a cup of broth, a half 
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and adding 3 
tablespoonfuls of cream. 

Omelets. 

A separate pan should be kept for omelets, that it may be always 
bright and smooth, and turn easily. If you have no omelet-pan, or 
no convenience for drying the omelet in the oven, use a smooth iron 
spider or frying-pan with a tin cover, and double the quantities given. 
Heat the pan and cover very hot. Butter the pan, turn in the mix- 
ture, cover it, and place on the back of the stove for 5 minutes, or 
till firm. Fold as usual. Omelets should be only slightly browned. 
A pinch of powdered sugar and another of corn-starch, beaten in with 
the yolks of eggs, will keep an omelet from collapsing. A very little 
baking-powder (about half a teaspoonful to a Q-egg omelet), renders 
it less likely to fall. Omelets should be served and eaten immediately. 

Omelet, Plain. — Break all the eggs in one dish. To every 3 
eggs put 1 tablespoonful of cold water or milk. Season with pepper 
and salt. Put a tablespoonful of butter in pan. When it is very hot 
turn in the eggs. When it is cooked on one side, put the pan in 
the oven to brown the other. Or when the first side is done, loosen, 
place a plate over it and turn the omelet out upon it. Double it 
together and serve. May be served with creaui sauce. (See directions.) 

Foam Omelet. — Beat separately the whites and yolks of 6 eggs. 
Mix the yolks with 6 teaspoonfuls of corn-starch, half a pint of milk; 
salt and pepper to taste. Pour on griddle where a little butter has 
been heated. Have the whites beaten to a stiff froth. When the 
yolks are set pour the whites on and turn or fold half way over. 
Serve at once. 

Parsley Omelet. — Four eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, salt, 
pepper and chopped parsley. Beat the eggs lightly together, sprin- 



EGGS. 



227 



kle in the parsley, pepper and salt. Have the butter quite hot in the 
pan to keep the mixture from burning. As soon as the edges are 
set, fold over, cook lightly for a moment, turn on a hot dish and 
serve. A little grated ham may be added if liked. 

Bread Omelet. — Pour 1 teacup of boiling milk over 1 teacup of 
bread crumbs. Let stand until soft. Break 6 eggs in bowl. Stir 
(not beat) till well mixed, then add the bread and milk; mix well; 
season with salt and pepper and pour into a hot skillet into which a 
large tablespoonful of butter has been melted. Fry slowly, cut in 
squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown and serve at once. Milk may 
be used to soak the crumbs instead of water. Crackers are some- 
times used instead of bread crumbs. 

Cheese Omelet. — Beat thoroughly the yolks of 5 eggs, add 5 
tablespoonfuls of milk, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth 
teaspoonful of pepper. Then beat the whites very 
stiff and gently stir them into the yolks. Butter a 
large spider and heat it, then pour the mixture in, cover 
tightly and cook slowly until brown on the bottom ; set 
in the oven a minute to dry the top, then sprinkle 
one-half cup of cheese on it. Fold together and serve 
at once. Stir the cheese in with the milk and eggs 
and cook with the omelet, if desired, instead of just 
folding. 

Oyster Omelet. — Take 12 large oysters, 6 eggs, 1 
cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of butter, chopped parsley, salt 
and pepper. Leave the oysters whole, drain and fry 
lightly in a little butter. Keep them hot. When 
the omelet is done on one side, lay the hot oysters Dover 
on, and fold the omelet over. Serve on a hot dish. Egg-Beater. 

Codflsli Omelet. — Beat 4 eggs very light, add a small cup of 
freshened codfish, salt and pepper, and cook in pan with plenty of 
butter. Fold and place in hot oven 5 minutes. Serve with or with- 
out cream sauce. 

Cream Sauce : One pint of rich milk, 1 tablespoonful of corn- 
starch, 1 tablespoonful of butter. Dissolve the corn-starch in part of 
the milk. Stir together and let boil up, adding a pinch of salt. 

Hash Omelet. — Make a fine mince of any kind of cold meat or 
fowl. Put over the fire with just enough milk or water to moisten 




228 EGGS. 

slightly, and stir until very hot. In the meantime have the omelet 
made after any plain rule, and as soon as done on side, place the hot 
minced meat over it and fold. A nice economical breakfast or lunch 
dish. 

Asparag-us Omelet. — Cut cold, cooked asparagus in inch pieces 
and set in a covered earthen dish in hot water, to be heated thoroughly 
through, but not to cook. Season it slightly again. Make a nice 
omelet with 4 eggs; put a cupful of the heated asparagus in it; fold 
it and serve it at once. Make as many omelets as the asparagus 
requires, but do not attempt to make any larger ones than 4 eggs 
will make. 

Tomato Omelet. — Strain one-half can of stewed tomatoes through 
a fine sieve; mix with 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 4 well- 
beaten eggs, one-half cupful of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and 
bake brown in a buttered pan. Fresh tomatoes can be used by stew- 
ing and beating fine, when the eggs, etc., can be stirred in, in the 
same proportions. A pinch of soda should be added to the tomatoes 
to correct the acidity. 

Potato Omelet. — Three eggs beaten separately, 1 cup of cold 
mashed potatoes, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoonful of flour, a little 
salt and some chopped parsley; mix and pour into a hot buttered pan, 
brown it lightly and serve hot. Same as an egg omelet. 

Cauliflower Omelet. — One cup cold boiled cauliflower, sauce 
included, chopped into small pieces; 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful corn- 
starch; beat eggs thoroughly, add cauliflower and cook as other 
omelets. 

Cabbage Omelet. — Make same as Cauliflower — either makes a 
nice side dish. 

Onion Omelet. — Make a plain omelet, and when ready to turn 
spread over it a teaspoonful each of chopped onion and minced 
parsley; then fold, or, if prepared, mix the minces into the eggs 
iDcfare cooking. 

Omelet Avitb Peas. — Make plain omelet; just before turning 
over one-half on other put several spoonfuls of cooked peas in 
center before omelet is lapped, then serve with peas (without juice) 
around it. 

Omelet with Corn. — Five eggs, half a cup of milk, quarter cup 
of fine bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon of melted butter; pepper and 



I 



EGGS. 229 

salt to taste. Soak the crumbs in milk 10 minutes; beat the eggs 
very light, yolks and whites separately; stir the soaked crumbs, 
milk, butter and seasoning into the yolks, and mix the whites in 
lightly and add a cupful of canned corn. Pour the omelet into a 
frying pan containing 2 tablespoons of butter, and cook, loosening 
it constantly from the bottom with a knife to prevent its scorching. 
Double over and serve at once. 

Spanish Omelet. — Take 6 eggs, 1 medium-sized tomato, 1 small 
onion, 1 dash of black pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls of milk, 5 mush- 
rooms, one-quarter pound of bacon, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt. 
Cut the bacon into very small pieces and fry until brown ; then add 
to it the tomato, onion and mushroom chopped fine ; stir and cook 
15 minutes. Break the eggs in a bowl and give them 12 vigorous 
beats with a fork ; add to them the salt and pepper. Now put a 
piece of butter the size of a walnut in a smooth frying pan ; turn it 
around so as to grease the bottom and sides. When the butter is 
hot pour in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set. 
Now quickly pour the mixture from the frying pan over the omelet, 
fold it over once, turn out in the center of a heated platter and serve 
immediately. The mushrooms and tomato can be omitted if wished. 

Rice Omelet. — One cupful of cold boiled rice, 1 cupful of warm 
milk, 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, half teaspoonful of salt, mix 
well and add 3 beaten eggs. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying 
pan and when it bubbles up pour in the omelet and set the pan in a 
hot oven. As soon as it is done turn out on a hot dish, fold double, 
and serve at once. It can be sprinkled thickly with sugar before fold- 
ing, if wished. 

Apple Omelet. — An apple omelet is an appetizing luncheon dish 
or entree at dinner. Stir in a basin two tablespoonfuls of flour, a 
pinch of salt and one of sugar, 2 whole eggs, with 2 yolks in addi- 
tion, and nearly a half pint of milk. Pare, core, quarter and mince 
4 good-sized apples. Saute them over a brisk fire in very hot butter, 
shaking them well, and when they are quite hot through, pour over 
them the above mixture, making it spread all over the bottom of the 
pan ; prick with a fork ; add (close to the edges) two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, melted, and rock the pan vigorously to prevent sticking. 
When it can be loosened from the pan put it in the oven to brown the 
top slightly. Slip out on a hot pan and serve hot. 



230 



EGGS. 




Peach Omelet. — Beat together 4 eggs, half a cupful of milk and 
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Fry and when done spread with peach 
preserves, fold and serve hot. A dessert dish. 

Strawberry Omelet. — Wash and drain in a colander 1 pint of 
strawberries; put them in a dish with a half cup of sugar and set 
them aside until the omelet is made. Ingredients for 
the omelet : — 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mixed 
with half teaspoonful of baking-powder, half teaspoonful 
of melted butter and 1 cup of milk. Stir the yolks, salt, 
powder and flour together ; beat the whites to a stiff froth 
and add the above mixture to them, stirring constantly ; 
put a large frying pan or omelet pan, with half tablespoon- 
ful of butter, over the fire; when hot pour in half of the 
omelet mixture; do not stir; as the eggs set slipabroad- 
bladed knife under the omelet to prevent burning on the 
bottom and shake the pan to and fro; when the under 
side is a light brown, set the pan of omelet for a few 
minutes in the oven ; then scatter half the strawberries 
Egg-beater over the surface ; slip the broad-bladed knife under one 
side of the omelet and double in two, inclosing the fruit ; dust over 
the top with powdered sugar and let it remain in the oven until the 
next one is baked the same way ; then serve at once. Sufficient for 
a family of six. Nice for dessert. 

Sweet Omelet. — Beat 4 eggs without separating. Add 4 table- 
spoonfuls of warm water and a teaspoonful of butter. Put into a fry- 
ing-pan a piece of butter the size of a walnut; when hot turn in the 
eggs, shake until set in the bottom, then, with a limber knife, lift the 
edge, drain the soft part around and allow to run under. Dust with 
a very little salt and put in the center 4 tablespoonfuls of jam. Fold 
over first one side, then the other, and turn on a heated platter. 

Omelet Avitli Jelly. — Beat up 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 
half a teaspoonful of butter. Either beat eggs separately or together; 
pan must be very hot and greased with melted butter. Turn in the 
pan ; when brown and solid spread jelly over surface and fold, turning 
over sides and ends as delicately as possible. Set in oven for a few 
minutes. A dessert dish. 



Measuring 
Glass and 



i 





All vegetables should be put in 
boiling water when set on the stove to 
cook. Peas, asparagus, potatoes and all deli- 
cately flavored vegetables should be only covered 
with water, but those with a strong flavor, like carrots, tur- 
nips, cabbage, onions and dandelions, should be cooked in 
a generous quantity of boiling water. All green vegetables should 
be cooked with the cover partially off the stewpan. It gives them a 
better color and a more delicious flavor. The average housekeeper is 
careless as to the time of cooking vegetables, yet a vegetable is as 
much injured by too much or too little cooking as is a loaf of bread 
or cake. The water should be kept boiling constantly until the vege- 
tables are done. To let it stop renders them water-soaked and im- 
pairs the flavor. For time table as to number of minutes each vege- 
table should cook, see page 233. 

Seasoning Veg-etables. — Peas and beans, as they are specially 
lacking in fatty substances, always require butter in their dressing. 
Indeed, almost all vegetable foods are deficient in fat and would be 
more digestible if eaten with butter or oil. Cabbage and lettuce, as 
they contain alkalies, need an acid condiment, while beets, turnips, 
squash and also beans and peas require the addition of sugar to make 
up for the sweetness lost in boiling. In cooking greens a ham bone 
will be found to supply a flavor that can be obtained in no other way, 
though salt pork is a fairly good substitute. Onion, used discreetly, 
is a great addition to many vegetable dishes, especially if prepared in 
the form of salads. A tiny bit of chopped onion added to a potato 
salad, for instance, will make it far more palatable, while lettuce also 
profits by a few grated shreds of the same vegetable beaten up in 
French dressing. 

A small handful of salt in the water potatoes are cooked in will 
render them mealy. Old or poor potatoes are improved by paring 
and soaking in cold water for some time before boiling. Watery 
potatoes should have a piece of lime as large as an egg put in the 
water they are boiled in. Drain, and they will be found dry and mealy. 

231 



232 



VEGETABLES. 



Asparagus that is young and tender may be cooked by tying in 
bunches and standing up in boiling water, leaving the tops to cook 
by steam. Cover the stewpan closely. In this way the tops will not 
boil to pieces, while the lower part of the stalks is still hard. 

Silver vegetable dishes, well heated, will keep food warm much 
longer than china. Use a cloth to wash the potatoes for baking ; it 

will save the hands. 
The skins of new 
potatoes can be re- 
moved more quickly 
with a stiff vegetable 
brush than by scrap- 
ing. In any of the 
recipes that call for 
parsley, celery may 
be substituted if pre- 
ferred, and to many 
tastes a dash of cay- 
enne pepper is the 
finishing touch, and 
others like enough 
onion to make the 
flavor perceptible, but to get it too strong is worse than to have none 
at all. Given the basis of the dish, and these little things are simply 
matters of taste. Never boil potatoes that are to be sliced and cooked 
again until they are quite as thoroughly done as if meant to be used 
without the second cooking. Always salt potatoes while boiling. 
Drain ; when done remove the cover and shake vigorously in the 
kettle for a moment and the potato will be lighter and more mealy. 

Boil fresh, young vegetables in hard water; a little salt will harden 
the water at once. Boil dried vegetables in soft water; a little baking 
soda will soften water, and is useful in freshening and making tender 
green vegetables that are a little old or not wholly fresh. A little 
sugar is an improvement to beets, turnips and squash. 

Canned Vegetables. — Canned vegetables, such as peas, beans, 
etc., are safer to be opened and turned into a colander and a cup of 
cold water turned over them and allowed to drain. Even with toma- 
toes it is safe to do this, thus removing danger of lead poisoning. 




Vegetable Parer and Corer. 



I 



VEGETABLES. 



233 



Time Table for Cooking Vegetables. 

All green vegetables must be washed thoroughly in cold water, 
and then dropped into water just beginning to boil. Most of them 
will be improved by having a tablespoonful of salt added to the water 
at first. The time for boiling each is as follows : — White potatoes, 
boiled, 30 minutes ; white potatoes, baked, 45 minutes ; sweet potatoes, 
boiled, 45 minutes ; sweet potatoes, baked, 60 minutes ; green peas, 
boiled, 20 to 40 minutes ; shelled beans, boiled, 60 minutes ; string 
beans, boiled, 1 to 2 hours ; green corn, boiled, 25 to 60 minutes ; 
asparagus, boiled, 15 to 30 minutes; spinach, boiled, 1 hour; toma- 
toes, fresh, 1 hour ; tomatoes, canned, ^^ hour ; cabbage, ^ to 2 
hours ; dandelion greens, 2 to 3 hours ; cauliflower, 1 to 2 hours ; 
beet greens, 1 hour ; onions, 1 to 2 hours ; beets, 1 to 5 hours ; yel- 
low turnips, 1 ^ to 2 hours ; parsnips, 1 to 2 hours ; carrots, 1 to 2 
hours ; white turnips, 45 to 60 minutes ; dried lima beans, 2 hours 
(soak over night) ; squash, 1 hour. 

Potatoes. 

Baked Potatoes. — Wash them thoroughly, put into a hot oven, 
bake only until they are tender enough to break open easily, and 
serve as soon as 
they are done ; 
cover them only 
with a napkin in 
sending them to 
the table and re- 
member that a 
baked potato is 
never so nice if it 
is allowed to stand 
before it is eaten. 
About 45 minutes 
is necessary. Be 
sure that the pota- 
toes are dry before 
putting in oven, as 
they bake quicker. Fruit or Vegetable Press. 




234 VEGETABLES. 

Boiled Potatoes. — Peel, remove all specks and lay in cold water 
at least an hour before using. Allow half an hour for the boiling of 
medium-sized potatoes. Put on in boiling water, having a teaspoon- 
ful of salt to each quart. Boil steadily covered, but never furiously. 
Try with a fork and when done drain off every drop of water, cover 
with a clean cloth and dry for ten minutes at the back of the stove, 
shaking the saucepan a little once or twice. Good potatoes are very 
nice boiled in their skins. They are never mealier than when served 
in this style. Peel before sending to the table. 

Steamed Potatoes. — Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold 
water as they are peeled, then put them in a steamer. Place the 
steamer over a saucepan of boiling water and steam the potatoes from 
20 to 40 minutes, according to size and sort. Serve quickly. They 
are rendered much nicer by dotting with bits of butter, sprinkling 
with salt and pepper and placing the dish containing them in the 
oven until the butter melts. To make them still more tempting pour 
a cup of hot, sweet cream over them just before serving. 

Browned Potatoes. — Peel and bake with a roast. When the 
meat is within half an hour or so of being ready, lay them in the 
gravy under it and bake until covered with a crisp brown skin. 

Mashed Potatoes. — Peel, boil 
or steam, mash or whip fine, sea- 
son with salt and butter, moisten 
with milk, or hot water. Have 
the milk hot and dissolve the but- 
ter in it. White pepper is nice to 
Potato Masher. season mashed potato. Hot sweet 

cream is a fine addition to the perfection of mashed potatoes. 

Potatoes a la Custard. — Peel and boil 6 large white potatoes, 
drain very dry and make smooth and creamy ; season with salt, pep- 
per and butter and a little cream ; press through a colander into the 
dish into which they are to be served ; move the colander so that the 
little bits will fall into the dish evenly and as light as snow flakes ; 
beat 1 egg well, and add 1 gill of milk and pour over top, bake 15 
minutes. It should look like a golden-brown custard when it leaves 
the oven. 

Whipped Potatoes — Instead of mashing in the ordinary way, 
whip with a fork until light and dry, then whip in a little melted but- 




VEGETABLES. 



235 



ter, some milk and salt to taste, whipping rapidly until creamy ; pile 
as lightly and irregularly as possible in a hot dish. 

Potato Snow. — To 1 pint hot boiled potatoes add 1 teaspoonful 
of butter, ^ teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and hot cream to 
moisten. Mash and beat until light and creamy, then rub through a 
colander into a hot dish. Do not touch afterward or the flakes will 
fall, and serve as hot as possible. This makes a very pretty and 
dainty dish. 




The Handy Fryer. 

Fried New Potatoes. — Take small ones, wash and scrape, put 
them in a saucepan of cold water, bring them to a boil, drain, wipe 
with a clean cloth. Put potatoes and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in 
the frying-pan and cook 20 minutes ; watch them, and when they com- 
mence to brown, turn them occasional!)'', so as to brown alike on all 
sides. Then strain off the butter, sprinkle with salt, and serve in a 
hot dish. 

New Potatoes and Peas. — Cook small new potatoes with green 
peas, and season as usual with salt, pepper, butter and thickened 
cream or milk. Very nice. 

New Potatoes and Cream. — Wash and rub new potatoes with a 
cloth and scrubbing brush. Boil until done. In a saucepan have 
hot some rich milk, seasoned with butter, or, better still, cream, if 
convenient ; add a little green parsley, pepper and salt, drain the pota- 
toes, turn over them this sauce, and let it just come to a boil. Serve 
very hot. Delicious. 

Sai-atoga Chips. — If possible use a cabbage or potato cutter ; if 
not, slice thin with a sharp knife. Place in ice water an hour or 
longer, and then wipe on a clean napkin. Test the lard by dropping 
a crust of bread into it, and if it colors a light brown at once it is 
ready for the potatoes. Drop in about a dozen slices at once, keep- 
ing them apart with the ladle, and as soon as they are a light yellow 



236 VEGETABLES. 

take out, as they turn darker after being taken from the lard. Place 
the fried chips on heavy brown paper, and it will absorb all the fat 
that clings to them. These may be prepared several hours before if 
kept in a dry, warm place, such as a kitchen closet. Salt while hot. 
Some cooks like the flavor obtained by sprinkling chopped parsley 
over them. A quantity can be prepared at once, as they can be 
warmed in the oven. Suitable for luncheons and to serve with fish. 

French Fried Potatoes. — Peel potatoes and cut in strips ^ inch 
thick or thinner; throw into cold water for a few minutes; put in an 
iron skillet, in which has been put enough boiling lard to cover them. 
When brown — a yellow brown — dip out by means of a skimmer, so 
as to remove all grease possible. Sprinkle with salt while hot, drain 
on soft paper, and serve at once. 

Potato Ribbons. — Wash and peel the potatoes, taking out the 
eyes and all specks. Then peel into very thin ribbons. Place them 
in a frying basket, and cook in boiling fat 5 or 6 minutes, sprinkle 
with salt and serve either hot or cold. 

Potato Rings. — Peel potatoes and cut them round, as you would 
pare apples. Fry in hot lard like fritters till brown, sprinkle salt over 
them and serve. 

Custard Potatoes. — Mash potatoes without milk, simply putting 
in pepper, salt and butter. Now put through a potato sieve (or a 
colander will answer the purpose) ; leave the flakes as they fall, and 
pour over them an egg beaten with a gill of milk. Bake for about 15 
minutes. When put through the sieve, let drop into an earthen dish 
that will stand the heat, and can be sent to the table just as baked. 
If more than 6 potatoes are cooked, more milk and egg will be 
needed. 

Texas Potatoes. — Boil white potatoes, mash, season with salt, 
pepper and butter. Mince a large onion fine; mix through the 
potatoes. Put in a baking dish, smooth over the top, dot with bits 
of butter. Put in an oven and brown nicely. 

Sweet Potatoes Boiled, or Steamed. — Wash carefully and cook 
with their jackets on. Peel before sending to the table. Scrape off 
the peeling. The same rules given for boiling or steaming white 
potatoes will answer for the sweet variety. 

Browned Sweet Potatoes. — Boil, peel while hot, cut in halves, 
arrange in a dripping pan, put in the oven. In a few minutes baste 



VEGETABLES. 237 

with a little melted butter to make them brown faster. Serve hot. 
Cold potatoes can be used in the same way. 

Sweet Potato Cakes. — Take the inside of sweet potatoes left 
from dinner, form into small round cakes, roll in flour and fry brown 
in butter. This is one of the ways to use cold baked sweet potatoes. 

Green Corn. 

Boiled Green Corn. — Corn boiled on the ear is always the 
prime favorite. Take short, full ears and plunge into boiling salted 
water. Cook for 20 minutes, and if young and tender it will be done. 
Drain; lay a napkin in a dish, put in the corn and fold the corners 
over. Serve with pepper, butter and salt. Many cooks think the 
corn much sweeter if cooked in the husks. Take off all save the 
last thin layers. Turn this back and remove the silk; fold it again 
over the corn and cook as above. When done remove the husks 
and serve as before. The husks may have to be tied at the ends to 
keep them over the ears of corn. 

Boiled Corn a la Oriental. — One of the chefs of a famous hotel 
boils corn after this fashion : " I strip the corn of all the husks, and 
placing it in a porcelain or agate kettle, I cover it with sweet milk 
and let it boil 15 to 20 minutes, when it is ready to serve. I never 
put a drop of water on corn." Still another one boils corn in one- 
third hot milk and two-thirds hot water. 

Baked Corn. — Cut green corn from the cob, place it in a baking 
dish, season with salt, pepper and bits of butter. Add milk enough 
to cover and bake in an oven one-half hour. 

Baked Canned Corn. — Take 1 can of corn and pour in a shallow 
dish; then stir in a tablespoon of flour, and 1 O:^^ beaten well to a 
pint of milk; salt and pepper to taste; then put a piece of butter 
the size of an &^^ in the center, and bake 30 minutes. 

Fried Corn. — An easily prepared and palatable way is to grate 
the corn from a dozen fresh, tender ears, season it with salt and pep- 
per, and cook it with an ounce of butter in a frying pan, being care- 
ful that it gets no scorching. A little sweet cream may be added 
before serving. 

Escalloped Corn. — Take fresh picked corn, cut it from the cob ; 
grease a pudding dish, put in a layer, sprinkle a little salt over it and 
bits of butter, then put on a layer of cracker crumbs, pour over a 




238 VEGETABLES. 

little milk and fill dish with alternate layers of corn and cracker 
crumbs, with cracker for top layer and plenty of milk over the 
whole. Cover closely and bake 1 hour. 

Stewed Corn. — Shave the corn from the ear, being careful not to 
cut into the cob; to each pint of corn add a tablespoonful of butter, 

and salt and pepper to taste. Just cover 
with water and cook for an hour, stir- 
ring often; or if a double boiler is used 
it will require less attention, but should 
be cooked 2 hours. If the corn be 
tender, less time will do. Just before 
serving add half a cup of cream for 
each pint of corn, thickening with a 
orn ra er. teaspoonful of flour. Or the dressing 

may be of milk, and just before serving add 2 or 3 well beaten eggs. 
If liked, stewed tomatoes may be used instead of milk dressing. 
The latter is especially good with roast beef 

Succotash. — Three-quarts of water, 1 dozen ears of young, 
milky corn, one quart of shelled beans, three-quarters of a pound 
of salt pork, salt and pepper to taste. Remove the raw corn from 
the cob by cutting through each row of kernels with the point of a 
sharp knife, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, 
leaving the hulls on the cob. Put three-quarters of water in a kettle 
large enough to hold the soup, put in the cobs (from which the corn 
has been scraped), and boil 15 minutes. Take out the cobs and put 
in the beans and pork and boil slowly 2 ^^ hours, or till the beans 
are perfectly tender. Then add the scraped corn and boil 15 min- 
utes longer ; season to taste with salt, add a little pepper if you like ; 
turn into a tureen and serve. This is the genuine New England 
succotash. Serve the pork on a platter. It should be streaked a 
little with lean. 

Lima Beans and Corn. — Boil a pint of shelled beans in water 
just to cover for 10 or 15 minutes. Cut corn from half a dozen ears, 
and add to the beans ; boil 20 minutes or ^^^ an hour, adding hot 
water as needed to keep from burning. Season and add 2 table- 
spoonfuls of butter. 

Scalloped Green Corn and Tomatoes. — Take green corn cut from 
the cob, season with some fat pork chopped very fine, pepper, salt and 



VEGETABLES. 239 

sugar. Let the top layer be tomatoes, butter and season, sift grated 
bread crumbs over it to brown the scallop. Bake covered ^ an 
hour ; uncover and leave in the oven as much longer. This time is 
for a large dishful. 

Corn CoUops. — Take equal parts of boiled corn cut on the cob 
and cold potatoes sliced ; fry to a light brown in butter ; season to 
taste. 

Corn Oysters. — One dozen ears of corn, not too ripe ; draw a 
sharp knife through each row of kernels, then scrape into an earthen 
bowl ; add one fresh egg, salt and pepper to taste, beat thoroughly, 
drop in separate tablespoonfuls into boiling lard ; fry till brown. 
Serve on a hot platter. 

Corn Chowder. — Fry out 3 slices of good, fat, salt pork ; remove 
the pork, and slice 3 good-sized onions in the fat and fry till browned ; 
add 3 pints of water and 1 quart of sliced potatoes ; put in 1 can of 
sweet corn ; when the potatoes are done, pepper and salt to taste. If 
too thick add a little boiling water. Let boil a few minutes before 
serving. 

Green Corn Pndding-. — Draw a sharp knife through each row of 
corn lengthwise, then scrape out the pulp ; to 1 pint of the corn add 
1 quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter, sugar to taste. Stir 
it occasionally until thick, and bake about 2 hours. If canned corn 
is used, mash it a little. 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes. — 12 ears of corn grated, 3 eggs, 1 cup 
of sweet milk, 1 cup flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, half teaspoonful 
salt, mix and bake on a griddle. 

Winter Succotash. — One pint dried sweet corn, 1 pint dried Lima 
beans ; soak over night. In the morning cook separately until partly 
done. Skim out the beans and put with the corn, cook until done, 
adding what water is necessary ; season with salt, pepper and butter. 
White beans can be used. In this case add a pinch of soda to the 
water in which the beans are first cooked. If canned corn is taken, 
it will not be necessary to put it in until 15 or 20 minutes before the 
beans are cooked. 

Corn for Winter. — Cut corn from the ear and pack in an earthen 
jar in layers, sprinkling salt thickly over each layer, 1 quart of corn 
and 1 handful of salt being about the correct proportion. Alternate 
the corn and salt until the jar is full, having the top one salt ; cover 



240 VEGETABLES. 

and set in a cool place. Will keep a year. Corn should be soft and 
milky. In freshening, drop the corn into boiling water and instantly 
skim out. This sets the milk. It may then be freshened in as many 
waters as necessary. Cook slowly ; season to suit, and add a little 
white sugar. 

Dried Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob and dry in the oven. 
Spread 1 inch deep in the pan and stir often to prevent scorching. 
This will be found better than cooking the corn before cutting from 
the ear. If the corn is too old for roasting ears, draw the point of a 
sharp knife through each row of kernels and scrape out the pulp with 
the back of the knife. Put in a bag and hang in a dry, cool place to 
keep. 

To Cook. — Soak over night and simmer gently an hour or more. 
Season with butter, salt, cream and a little sugar. If milk is used, 
roll the bits of butter in flour to supply a slight thickening. Cream 
or milk may be omitted if not liked. 

Hulled Corn or Hominy. — Two tablespoonfuls of soda (baking) 
to 1 quart of carefully picked-over white field corn. Let soak over 
night in just water enough to cover it. Boil in the morning until the 
hulls come off, adding more water if necessary, but only a little at a 
time, so as not to dilute the lye. It will take about 2^ hours' brisk 
boiling to dissolve the hull. Drain off the lye, and fill the kettle 
with cold (not hot) water. Let this come to a boil and keep it boil- 
ing an hour ; then drain off the water and fill the kettle again with 
cold water and boil as before. Do the same thing a third time, only 
after filling the kettle a third time continue to boil the corn until it is 
tender, season with salt and serve with milk and sugar or fry. The 
dish pays for the trouble in making it. 

Boiled Hominy. — Take a pint of hominy, pour cold water over 
it, stir and let it settle. Then pour off the water. Do this twice ; 
then put it to soak in 3 pints of water or milk over night. In the 
morning, put it over to cook in a double boiler, add a little salt, and 
stir often. If it becomes so thick as not to stir easily, add more 
water or milk. It should be just thick enough to settle down smooth 
in a deep dish. Fine hominy will cook in 2 hours, the coarse re- 
quires 3. It is very nice eaten warm with cream and sugar. It can 
be cooked in all water or milk and water half and half It is nice 
served hot as a vegetable to be eaten with meat and gravy. 



VEGETABLES. 241 



Tomatoes. 



To Peel Tomatoes. — Cover them with boihng water half a minute, 
then lay them in cold water till they are perfectly cold, when the skin 
can be slipped off without difficulty, leaving the tomatoes unbroken 
and as firm as before they were scalded. 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Peel and slice the required quantity of toma- 
toes, stew in a granite or porcelain saucepan for one-half hour. (Do 
not use tin or iron to cook tomatoes.) Thicken with crumbed bread 
or rolled cracker. Season with salt, pepper and butter. A little 
sugar is an improvement for most persons, but unless acquainted with 
every one's taste it is well to permit each person to add sugar to suit 
his individual taste. Some cooks do not thicken with bread or 
crackers, simply season. Some add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce ; some add a little curry powder. Others like an onion cut up 
and stewed with the tomato. 

Canned Tomatoes are to be prepared the same way, but need only 
to cook a short time. One economical housewife suggests that a ten 
cent can of tomatoes stewed with plenty of bread will make sufficient 
to serve twice for a family of six, adding to the usual seasoning a 
tablespoonful of vinegar to supply a little acid and prevent insipidity. 

Escaloped Tomatoes. — Butter an earthen dish, then put in a 
layer of tomatoes, fresh or canned (without skins), then cover with a 
layer of bread crumbs, or rolled crackers, add a little butter, salt and 
pepper; repeat this process until dish is full, then bake 1 hour in hot 
oven ; 1 small-sized onion, chopped fine, may be added, if desired, to 
advantage. Have the cracker crumbs for the top layer and dot it with 
bits of butter ; a little sugar sprinkled over each layer is an improve- 
ment to most persons. Some cooks add a little chopped parsley to 
each layer. 

Baked Tomatoes. — These are a pleasant variation. Slice fresh 
tomatoes and spread in layers, with salt, pepper, curry-powder, sugar 
and butter, and lastly a layer of bread crumbs. Bake until tomatoes 
are tender. Five minutes before taking out pour over them" a cupful 
of whipped cream, sweetened. It will brown before it melts and makes 
a piquant sauce for the dish. Canned tomatoes are more delicious 
baked than stewed. About 10 minutes before removing from the 
oven, spread buttered bread crumbs over the top. 
16 



242 VEGETABLES. 

Raw Tomatoes, to Serve. — Peel firm, cold, ripe tomatoes, slice 
thin, put in a glass dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little sugar, 
to add a zest. Turn over all a cupful of the best cider vinegar. Cay- 
enne pepper in very small quantity is better than black pepper. Some 
cooks add a teaspoonful of made mustard to the vinegar. For other 
ways of serving raw tomatoes see Department on Fresh Fruits. 

Cabbage. 

Boiled Cabbage. — Examine thoroughly and wash carefully to free 
from insects. Slice in sections and put in boiling, salted water. Boil 
until done, but not until water-soaked. Drain and serve with vinegar 
or chop fine and season with butter, pepper and salt, same as turnips. 
Very nice. Some cooks boil the cabbage with a small piece of corn- 
beef or salt pork. For a regular " Boiled, or New England Dinner," 
see Meat Department. 

Saiir Kraut. — Slice the cabbage as thin as possible. In a butter 
firkin or barrel place a thin layer of salt, and alternate cabbage and 
salt at each layer. Slightly pound with a maul until the firkin is full. 
Have salt for the last layer. Some housekeepers add 1 quart of cider 
vinegar to a large jar of kraut. Put in a warm, dry place, cover with 
a cloth, put a large plate if a jar, a small barrel head if a barrel, over 

the cloth and a weight on that. Re- 
move the cloth every few days and 
rinse to remove the scum. Keep in 
a warm place until it ceases to fer- 
Vegetable Cutter. n^g^t, or "work." A great quantity 

of water and foam will rise to the top while this process is going on; 
dip this off as occasion requires. 

After the fermentation is complete remove to a cold place. Never 
attempt to use kraut until it stops foaming. A small quantity of cara- 
way, or coriander seeds, mixed with the salt used will add to the flavor 
of the kraut. Very nice white kraut is sometimes served raw as a 
relish. 

Saiir Kraut and Sausag-e. — Fry ham or sausage, especially sau- 
sage. When done take up ; put the required amount of kraut in the 
gravy and heat through thoroughly. Heap the kraut in center of the 
platter and arrange the sausages around it, A little vinegar may be 
added to the kraut before taking up. 




4 



VEGETABLES. 243 

Boiled Saiir Kraut. — Cook in boiling water 1 hour. It may then 
be fried in butter or ham gravy, or boiled with a piece of salt pork. 

Cauliflower, Boiled. — Pick off the outer leaves and cut off the 
stem, wash well in cold water, tie up in a thin cloth and stand in a 
kettle of boiling water. Add a little salt, and cover ; let cook until 
tender. Lift carefully from the water, take off the cloth. Pick apart; 
put in a dish and pour melted butter over it. Dredge with pepper 
(white). Epicures consider 2 teaspoonfulsof lemon juice an improve- 
ment. Adding milk to the water in which it is boiled, renders cauli- 
flower whiter. Two or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar will have same effect 
and is preferred by some. 

Cauliflower in Cream. — Prepare as above. Cook very tender in 
1 pint each of hot milk and water, with 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. Take 
up with a skimmer and serve with a hot cream sauce. 

Creamed Cauliflow^er. — Prepare as for Boiled Cauliflower, drain 
and pour over it 1 cupful of rich milk. Let boil and season with 1 
tablespoonful of butter, cut in bits and rolled in flour, and a little 
white or black pepper. 

Cauliflow^er w^itli Cheese. — Plunge a medium-sized cauliflower 
into boiling water, allowing a tablespoonful of salt to the water, boil 
the cauliflower until just tender, drain it, and break into sprigs. Heat 
half a pint of milk and pour it over the same quantity of well-sea- 
soned bread crumbs, and have ready some grated cheese. Butter a 
shallow, round, enameled dish ; place first the sprigs of cauliflower, 
then cover with soaked crumbs, and powder these thickly with cheese. 
Place a few dots of butter on the top. Bake until it is a light brown. 

Peas. 

Boiled Peas. — When boiled as follows peas are exceptionally 
nice : To half a peck allow a breakfast cupful of water, 1 ounce of 
butter, 1 large lump of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt and a sprig of mint. 
Serve with the liquor. The mint can be omitted if it is not liked. 
Stale or wilted peas may be improved by being shelled and placed 
in very cold water for at least 1 hour before using, and adding a little 
sugar to the water in which they are boiled. 

Green Peas, Stewed. — Shell one half peck of young peas, put 
them in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of sugar and sufficient 
boiling water to barely cover ; add 2 ounces of butter and 1 head of 



244 VEGETABLES. 

lettuce, boil 15 minutes ; then add 1 even teaspoonful of salt, remove 
the lettuce, and cook to nearly dry ; add one-quarter teaspoonful of 
white pepper. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with one-half cupful of milk, 
add it to the peas, let it remain for a few minutes over the fire with- 
out boiling, then serve. Instead of using lettuce, the young pea-pods 
can be boiled in the water first (wash them), skimmed out, and the 
peas put in. One whole egg can be used instead of using the yolks 
of two. 

Creamed Peas. — Put in salted boiling water and cook one-half 
hour. Drain, add pepper, butter and cream. Or take 1 cup of milk 
and thicken with bits of butter rolled in flour. 

Green Peas with Bacon. — Peas should not be shelled until just 
before cooking. Put them in boiling water with as much bacon as 
would cook with the same amount of beans, and boil for 20 or 30 
minutes. Long boiling cracks the skins and destroys the color and 
flavor. 

Peas Stewed with Lamb. — Chop 1 pound of lamb. Cook slowly 
with 1 pint of green peas in water to cover, until well done. Season 
with butter, pepper, salt and half a teacup of cream. 

Beans. 

String- Beans. — String beans require 2 hours to cook; cut them 
in bits first, stringing carefully. At the end of the first houi a tea- 
spoonful of salt to each quart of beans should be added. After they 
are done all the water should be poured off, and to the beans should 
be added 1 tablespoonful of butter and 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water. Return to the fire for 3 minutes and serve. 

String- Beans (French Method). — String, cut in pieces and drop 
in cold water and wash, boil until tender in salted water. When ten- 
der put them in a stewpan, and shake over the fire to dry away the 
moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot add 3 ounces of 
fresh butter, and seasoning to taste, and the juice of 1 lemon. Keep 
moving the stewpan without using a spoon, and when the butter is 
melted and all thoroughly hot, serve. 

Canned String- Beans. — Like peas, the smallest beans are con- 
sidered the best. These are very tender and absolutely stringless. 
Larger beans are sold at lower prices, but they are considered very 
inferior in quality. Stew for a few minutes in boiling water, strain 



ictlll ^m 

J 



VEGETABLES. 245 

thoroughly, turn into a hot dish and season with a lump of butter, 
cream, pepper and salt. 

liiina Beans. — Shell and throw into cold water. Drain, put into 
a saucepan with plenty of hot water, add a tablespoonful of salt, and 
set on the stove to boil until tender. Take up in a heated dish, pour 
over melted butter, dredge with pepper, and serve. 

Shelled Beans, Green. — Prepare same as Lima Beans. 

Baked Pork and Beans. — Soak 1 pint of beans over night. 
Boil in the morning, adding 1 teaspoonful of baking-soda to the water. 
When the beans begin to break, skim them into a baking-dish. In 
the centre put half pound of pork, with the upper surface well-scored. 
Cover the beans with boiling water, and bake 3 hours in a hot oven. 
Have the top a rich brown before removing, but be careful that the 
beans do not get too dry. Some cooks boil a large onion with the 
beans for the flavor, and remove it before baking. 

Boston Baked Beans. — Soak 1 quart of navy beans in cold 
water over night. In the morning put them into fresh cold water, 
and simmer till soft enough to pierce with a pin, being careful not 
to let them boil enough to break. If you like, boil one onion 
with them. When soft, turn them into a colander, and pour cold 
water through them. Place in the bean pot. Remove the onion. 
Pour boiling water over one quarter of a pound of salt pork, part fat 
and part lean; scrape the rind till white. Cut the rind into half-inch 
strips ; bury the pork in the beans, leaving only the rind exposed. 
Mix 1 teaspoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of mustard with one- 
quarter of a cup of molasses. Fill the cup with hot water, and when 
well mixed pour it over the beans; add enough more water to cover 
them. Keep them covered with water until the last hour; then lift 
the pork to the surface, and let it crisp. Bake 8 hours in a moderate 
oven. Use more salt, and one-third of a cup of butter, if you dislike 
pork, or use half a pound of fat and lean corned beef 

The mustard gives the beans a delicious flavor, and also renders 
them more wholesome. Many add a teaspoonful of soda to the 
water in which the beans are boiled, to destroy the acid in the skin 
of the beans. Yellow-eyed beans and lima beans are also good when 
baked. The regular bean-pot is earthen, with a narrow mouth and 
bulging sides, and is seldom found outside of the New England 
States. Much of the excellence of this dish depends upon this utensil. 



246 VEGETABLES. 



Parsnips. 

Parsnips in Batter. — Parsnips deserve a more favored place 
in the family diet than is usually given them. Parsnips in batter are 
excellent. Cook the parsnips until soft, in salted water. Parsnips 
should never be boiled whole, since the outside will cook too much 
before the inside is tender. 

Cut lengthwise in narrow strips, and dip each strip into a batter 
made like fritter batter. Fry until brown in smoking hot fat, having 
as much fat as for frying doughnuts. Cold boiled parsnips can be 
used in this way also. 

Fried Parsnips. — Boil till tender in salted water ; slice length- 
wise, and fry brown in hot fat. Drain and serve. Cold parsnips can 
be served in the same way. 

Browned Parsnips. — Scrape ; cut into lengthwise strips, and 
steam until tender — about 1 hour. Then bake in a hot oven, with a 
little salt and meat dripping, until brown. Drain and serve. Cold 
boiled parsnips can be cooked in the same way. Or dip in flour and 
fry in butter, browning both sides. 

Creamed Parsnips. — Pare and boil 4 parsnips very tender ; cut 
them in rather thin slices around the vegetable, and put them in a 
sauce-pan with one half-pint of cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
a little grated nutmeg, if liked, and salt to taste. Keep shaking the 
pan around until it is well mixed, and is thick and smooth. Pour 
into a hot dish and serve. Milk can be used instead of cream ; in 
which case a trifle more flour and butter will be needed. Slices of 
hard-boiled egg make a pretty garnish. Sprinkle with pepper. 

Breaded Parsnips. — Scrub thoroughly with a brush, and drop 
into boiling water that has been previously salted. When nearly 
done skim out, and slice long and thin. Dip first into beaten egg, then 
into bread or cracker crumbs, and fry in butter to a golden brown. 

Turnips. 

Turnips Boiled Whole. — Turnips boiled like beets, with their 
jackets on, are of better flavor and less watery. A small bit of sugar 
added while the vegetable is boiling corrects the bitterness often 
found in them. Cut up and mash with pepper, butter and salt. 



4 



VEGETABLES. 



247 




Creamed Turnips. — Turnips if sliced will take about 30 minutes ; 
if put in whole 40, minutes' time will be needed to cook them 
thoroughly. Pare the turnips, cut them in small pieces and boil 
them in plenty of hot 
salted water. When 
done drain them in a 
colander and turn 
them into a hot vege- 
table dish. Put 1 tea- 
spoonful of butter in 
a small sauce-pan, 
and when hot add a 
level teaspoonful of Arcadia Slicer. 

flour; stir till smooth, but not brown; add half a pint of milk and 
stir continually until it boils; add half a teaspoonful of salt and pour 
over the turnips. 

Diced Turnips. — Pare, slice, cut in dice an inch square, boil in 
as little salted water as possible, and add 1 tablespoon of sugar to a 
quart of turnips. When boiled dry, add a few spoonfuls of sweet 
cream and a beaten egg. 

BroAvned Turnips. — Pare turnips, cut in slices and boil. Drain. 
Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, let heat, add the 
turnips, with 1 tablespoonful of sugar. Stir and turn until the slices 
are brown. Dust with salt and pepper and serve hot. 

Turnips in TVTiite Sauce. — Wash and cut turnips into slices, 
pare and cut the slices in dice. Cook in salted water until tender. 
Drain and turn over them a hot white sauce. 

Asparagus. 

Asparag^us, To Boil. — A common error is to boil asparagus too 
much. It should be crisp, rather than mushy. Tie the stalks with 
the heads all one way, trim to an even length and place upright in a 
high vessel of salted boiling water, leaving the tips just above the 
water. A 5-pound lard pail makes a good vessel for boiling asparagus. 
If the bunches are placed on the sides, so that the tips and all are 
immersed, this most delicate portion is boiled to rags before the 
stems are done. If the bunches are tied with bands of soft old 
muslin, they may be lifted out and untied without breaking the stalks, 



248 VEGETABLES. 

as cord will sometimes do. Season with butter and pepper, and 
serve at once. Asparagus cooked in this fashion is to be eaten with 
the fingers. 

Another way to boil asparagus is to cut the stalks in half and the 
lowest part should be cooked for three-quarters of an hour. Then 
add the tops and cook for 10 or 15 minutes. By this method 
both parts become just right. The stalk is tender throughout and 
the tops do not fall all to pieces. Toast is always served with aspar- 
agus, but there are many other vegetables with which it is equally 
good. It is delicious with cauliflower, and either French or butter 
beans, also with cabbage, if a white sauce is served with that vegeta- 
ble, and it is worth noting that summer vegetables will generally agree 
better with children if eaten well-mixed with bread. 

Asparagus ou Toast. — Boil the asparagus as above. Toast 
slices of bread. Dip quickly in the water in which the asparagus 
was boiled, and butter. Lay several stalks of asparagus on each 
slice, arrange on platter, season with pepper and melted butter. 

Or make a white sauce of a tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, 
a little salt, a saltspoon of pepper, and enough of the water in which 
the asparagus was boiled to make the desired consistency (usually 1 
cup), pour over asparagus. Serve at once. A httle vinegar is some- 
times added to this sauce. 

Onions. 

When cooking onions, be sure to set a tincup of vinegar on the 
stove and let boil, and no disagreeable odor will be in the room. 
When peeling and slicing onions hold underwater; have a large pan- 
ful. In this way their pungent aroma will not cause the eyes to 
smart. Onions are perhaps the most wholesome vegetable in use ; 
but few people use them as liberally as they should on account of the 
disagreeable odor. A cup of strong coffee taken immediately after 
eating is said to counteract this odor on the breath. Sweet milk is 
also recommended. Parsley and vinegar are said to be a certain rem- 
edy. In peeling onions be careful not to cut the top or bottom too 
closely or the onion will not keep whole. 

Boiled Onions. — Boil in 3 different waters, allowing 5 minutes to 
each water. This will remove the odor and make the onions tender 
and sweet. Boil till done, then season with milk, butter, salt and 
pepper. 




VEGETABLES. 249 

Creamed Onions. — Pare the onions and drop into boiling water, 
parboil, and turn the water off. Add more salt to the taste. Cover 
closely and boil until they commence 
to be tender, then remove cover, sea- 
son with salt (if necessary), pepper 
and butter, and boil slowly until the 
water has nearly evaporated. Heat 
1 teacupful of sweet milk to the boil- 
ing point and thicken with 1 table- 
spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in 

cold milk. When it boils pour it on 

^, . J Covered Saucepan. 

the onions and serve. 

Escaloped Onions. — Peel and slice a pint of nice onions. In a 
baking dish spread a layer of bread crumbs ; add a layer of sliced 
onions ; season well, and so alternately until the dish is full. Use 
plenty of butter, salt, and pepper. Pour over all 2 cups of sweet 
milk and bake one hour. 

Baked Onions. — Select even-sized onions. Cover with hot salted 
water and simmer 30 minutes without removing the outside skin. 
When ready to bake, carefully remove this thin membranous skin, 
place the onions in a baking dish and bake until tender, basting often 
with melted butter. The onions must be thoroughly done, but should 
not lose their shape. Pour melted butter over, and dust with pepper. 
Spanish onions are best. 

Celery. 

Celery served raw should be placed in cold water an hour before 
using, then cleaned and arranged on a celery dish. A more orna- 
mental way is to cut the stalks in pieces 4 inches long, split these 4 
or 5 times with a sharp knife, lay in cold water till they curl, then 
remove to a glass dish, eat with vinegar, pepper, and salt. Celery 
can be kept a week or longer by first rolling it in dark -brown paper ; 
then pinning it in a towel and laying away in a cool, dark place. 
Thus kept, the celery will bleach to a considerable extent and be finer 
than when first purchased. One of the novelties of the market is 
rose-tinted celery. This is now grown in a beautiful pink tint, which 
is very effective on the table, and it is quite as crisp, nutty and deli- 
cious as the white celery, to which it offers an excellent foil. A pink 



250 



VEGETABLES. 



Beleek salad bowl, heaped with pink celery dressed in white Mayon- 
naise with a garnish of dainty green, makes a charming dish to serve 
on the dinner table with fried chicken or roast bird. 

Creainetl Celery- — Cut up 2 bunches of celery, put in a saucepan, 
cover with boiling water, to which add half a teaspoonful of salt ; 
let cook until tender. Take up, drain and throw into cold water. 
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, let heat, add a table- 
spoonful of flour and mix until smooth; thin with half a pint of milk 
and 2 tablespoonfuls of the water in which the celery was boiled, 
season with salt and pepper. Add the celery to the sauce, stir until 
thoroughly heated, and serve. Cream can be used instead of milk. 
Serve with chicken or turkey. The celery may be boiled in the stem 
and served with drawn butter sauce poured over it if preferred. 

Carrots. 
Creamed Carrots. — Wash, scrape and boil until tender in salted 
water. Turn off the water, slice in the saucepan, add a lump of 
butter rolled in flour, and cover them with 
boiling milk. Stir until the butter melts. 
Dish up hot. People who say they hate car- 
rots will eat them this way and call for more. 

Fried Carrots. — Scrape several carrots un- 
til all the spots and portions of skin are re- 
moved. Boil until nearly done, remove from 
the kettle, draining thoroughly; roll in granu- 
lated cornmeal or flour ; fry in butter. Serve 
hot. 

Caramel Carrots. — Boil the carrots and 
cut in long, thin strips like cigarettes. Put 
into the frying pan a large lump of butter and 
drippings. When very hot add the carrots, sprinkle with sugar, 
pepper and salt, and fry until the edges are well browned. Sprinkle 
with chopped parsley and serve. 

Mushrooms. 
To Test. — Beginning with August is the season of plenty in 
mushrooms. The top is a dirty white color, which the poetically in- 
clined like to call pearl-pink. The under side is a salmon-colored 
fringe surface and becomes brown soon after gathering. The season 




Tin "Vegetable Cutter. 



VEGETABLES. 251 

for mushrooms is also the season for the mushrooms' low-born rela- 
tive, the toadstool. It is absolutely unsafe to eat mushrooms without 
testing them properly. A peeled white onion cooked in the pot with 
the toadstool turns black. A silver spoon used to turn cooking toad- 
stools turns black. If either of these things should happen to the 
mushrooms, they should be thrown out. Once the vegetable is 
proved to be the harmless and delicious one some of the following 
recipes should be tried. An antidote if poisoned is powdered emetics, 
followed by castor oil. 

Creamed Mushrooms. — Clean 12 large mushrooms and put them 
in a buttered shallow pan, setting them cup side up. Sprinkle them 
with salt and pepper and dot them over with butter ; add two-thirds 
cupful of cream and bake 10 minutes. Serve with slices of toast. 

Escaloped Muslirooms. — Put the mushrooms in a buttered bak- 
ing-dish with alternate layers of crumbs, seasoning each layer plenti- 
fully with butter; add salt, pepper and a gill of cream or gravy. 
Bake 20 minutes, keeping covered while in the oven. 

Stewed Mushrooms. — Take the button mushrooms, trim and rub 
clean with a flannel dipped in salt. Cut off a portion of the stalk. 
To one-half pint of the mushrooms put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a pan, season with salt and pepper, put in the mushrooms and let 
them broil slightly. Then turn in a very little hot or soup stock and 
let them stew gently for one-quarter of an hour. Rub together a 
little flour and butter to make the liquor about as thick as cream. 
Let boil 5 minutes. When ready to dish up stir in 2 tablespoonfuls 
of cream or the beaten yolk of 1 egg. They can also be stewed in 
milk and water, half and half, and seasoned to taste. Mushrooms 
can be cooked in almost any way that oysters are served. 

Cucumbers. 

Boiled Cucumhers. — Peel 4 good-sized cucumbers ; cut them 
into halves, then into quarters. Put them carefully into the bottom 
of a baking pan ; cover with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, 
and stew gently for 20 minutes. Have ready a platter of toast ; lift 
the cucumbers carefully ; arrange them neatly on the toast, and cover 
with English drawn butter. 

Stewed Cucumbers. — First peel the cucumbers, take away the 
bitter ends and cut in slices. Place in a china-lined saucepan, cover 



252 



VEGETABLES. 




with milk, add pepper and salt and stew slowly till cooked ; add a 
teaspoonful of butter, season with salt and white pepper. Let boil 
up and serve hot. A very delicate dish. If a little cream can be 
added it will be an improvement. 

Cucumbers, Kaw. — Cucumbers should be fresh and kept in ice 
chest. Cut the outside while the green 
shows ; slice thin and salt well ; let stand 
an hour before using. Pour a little vine- 
gar over. Or slice equal quantities of onions 
and cucumbers, season and turn vinegar 
over. Or put them into a glass dish, and 
sprinkle bits of ice over them. Serve with 
""J! a French dressing in a separate dish. 

Fried Cucumbers. — Cucumbers are 
seldom used except raw, and yet they are 
both delicious and digestible when cooked. 
Vegetable Slicer. Pare 3 large cucumbers, slice thick, and soak 
in salt water for 10 minutes. Drain and press out the water. Roll 
each slice in grated cracker ; fry in boiling fat and serve very hot. 
Cucumbers are good for cooking when they are a little too old for 
slicing raw. 

Cucumber Toast. — Pare the cucumbers and slice lengthwise in 
cuts three-quarter-inch thick ; drop in cold salt water ; dip the slices 
in flour, and fry in butter or meat gravy until a light brown on each 
side. Have half slices of toast, moisten slightly and butter. Lay a 
slice of cucumber between two pieces of toast and serve immediately 
— hot as possible. Cucumber can be served fried without the toast. 

Egg-Plant. 

Fried Eg-g-Plaut. — Take a medium-sized purple egg-plant, slice 
around in slices one-half inch thick. Drop in cold salted water for 
some time before cooking to remove the strong taste ; or, if in a hurry, 
parboil for 5 minutes in salted water ; drain on a napkin ; dip each 
slice in beaten egg, then in cracker-dust and fry until a light-brown. 
Pepper and serve hot; or, dip in a thin batter and fry a delicate 
brown on both sides. 

Stuffed E8-g--Plant. — Cut the egg-plant in two ; scrape out all the 
inside, and put it in a saucepan with a little minced ham ; cover with 



VEGETABLES. 253 

water and boil until soft; drain off the water; add 2 tablespoonfuls of 
grated crumbs and a tablespoonful of butter; half a minced onion, 
salt and pepper ; stuff each half of the hull with the mixture ; add a 
small lump of butter to each and bake fifteen minutes. Minced veal 
or chicken in the place of ham is equally as good, and many prefer it. 
Stewed Egg-Plant, Creole Method. — Stewed egg-plants is a de- 
lightful summer dish. Make a roux, browning one onion in a spoon- 
ful of lard ; cut up the egg-plants and a tomato, and put in the roux, 
adding a little water to keep from burning, then stew slowly, season- 
ing with salt and pepper to taste. Mix together, mashing the egg- 
plant thoroughly, and serve. 

Truffles. 

The truffle belongs to the mushroom family. In France they are 
found chiefly under the oak, in England beneath the beech-tree, and 
sometimes the hazel and cedar. In this country only under one 
species of oak do they grow, and that the holly or evergreen variety. 
Here they are chiefly used as a condiment for boned turkey and 
chicken, beef, game, fish, etc. In proper quantities they give a pecu- 
liar zest and flavor to sauces that can be found in no other plant in 
the vegetable kingdom. In countries where they grow in greater 
profusion they are frequently served by themselves. 

Truffles, Italian Style. — Ten truffles, quarter-pint of salad oil. 
Pepper and salt to taste. A very little finely minced garlic (minced 
onion would better suit American tastes), 2 blades of pounded mace, 
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cleanse and brush the truffles, cut 
in thin slices. Mix all the above ingredients, except the lemon juice, 
and pour in a baking dish. Add the truffles and bake three-quarters 
of an hour. Just before serving add the lemon juice, and send to the 
table very hot. 

Macaroni. 

The possibilities of macaroni are sadly neglected in this country, 
and, where it is used, one or, at most, two ways of preparing, seems 
to be the extent of the skill of the ordinary cook ; and so the fact 
remains that macaroni is not rated at half its worth. It can be served 
as a side dish, or in the summer-time, when meats become distasteful, 
may, in roasted form, constitute the chief dish of the dinner. It can 
be chopped fine and made into croquettes. It can be used in part to 



254 VEGETABLES. 

stuff both bird and fowl ; and since one pound of it is said to be as 
nourishing as two pounds of beef, it seems a pity that it is not more 
generally used. 

Macaroni Hints. — In boiling macaroni it is fatal to permit it to 
stop boiling for a moment until done. Have plenty of salted water 
in the saucepan at the boiling-point when the sticks are added, and 
when they are tender throw in a glass of cold water to stop the cook- 
ing suddenly, and drain at once. After that it may be served in 
various ways. Grate cheese on a coarse grater for macaroni and 
cheese, instead of cutting it. Have cheese dry ; save a piece and dry 
on purpose for it. 

Macaroni and Clieese. — Twelve sticks of macaroni broken into 
1-inch lengths, cooked in 3 pints of boiling salted water 20 minutes. 
Turn into a colander and pour over it cold water; drain. Make a 
sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 1^ cups of 
milk ; salt. Put a layer of grated cheese in bottom of bake dish, then 
layer of macaroni and one of sauce, then cheese, macaroni and sauce ; 
cover top with fine bread crumbs, bits of butter and a little grated 
cheese. Bake until brown. 

Rice. 

Boiled Rice. — Boiled rice is considered indispensable for break- 
fast at the south. Wash the rice in several waters, and allow 1 pint 
of boiling water to 1 cup of rice, add a little salt, cover closely and 
cook slowly until perfectly dry ; do not stir it, and when done each 
grain will be perfect. Cook over an asbestos lid or in a double boiler. 

Rice is deficient in natural fat, therefore it is a more useful article 
of diet when cooked with milk or butter. In boiling rice it can be 
cooked in a very little water at first, and the deficiency supplied by 
adding boiling milk to finish. Rice cooked thus is a good substitute 
for potatoes to serve with roast beef. 

Boiled Rice, Syrian Fashion. — Wash the rice until the water 
runs clear. Then in a dry vessel put a piece of butter the size of a 
small egg to a cup of rice. Beat over the fire until the butter is 
thoroughly melted and bubbling. Add the rice and stir well with the 
butter. Then pour in salted water, and cook the rice slowly, without 
stirring, until the water is absorbed and it is tender. With rice cooked 
perfectly in this fashion, an unequalled substitute for potatoes is found. 



VEGETABLES. 255 

Chow Wan, a Chinese Dish. — Take equal parts rice and water ; 
let it boil a minute and then set where it can steam slowly for an 
hour, stirring occasionally with a fork, to keep the kernels whole. 
When done, or when cold, put in frying-pan, with oil or melted but- 
ter, and heat thoroughly through, adding onions, finely chopped. 
One good-sized onion to a pint of rice. Add salt to suit the taste. 

Balied Rice. — One cupful rice, 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspoonful 
salt ; wash the rice carefully, and put in a pudding dish, turn in the 
milk, season with salt, and bake in a slow oven 2 hours. It should 
swell and be a firm mass. If it browns too fast cover until nearly done. 

Rice Patties. — Two cups of cold boiled rice, 3 eggs, one-fourth 
of a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of flour and a little salt. Stir well 
together and fry a nice brown in butter. 

Rice and Codfish. — Put one-half cup of rice into one-quart of 
boiling water. Boil rapidly until tender, and drain. Turn into a 
saucepan with one-half box of shredded codfish; stir till the codfish 
is thoroughly hot, add a tablespoonful of butter ; one-fourth teaspoonful 
of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper ; break over 2 whole eggs, stir. 
quickly, turn into a hot dish and serve. Soak the codfish in clear 
water while the rice is cooking. 

Rice and Cheese. — Rice and cheese are very good with roast 
beef. They are prepared in much the same way as macaroni and 
cheese. Boil the rice until tender in salted water, drain dry, then put 
in a baking dish, alternate layers of the rice and grated cheese. Sea- 
son with salt, pepper and bits of butter, moisten with sweet milk, 
cover with fine buttered crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. 

Spinach. 

Spinach, Plain. — Spinach should be cooked so as to retain its 
bright, green color, and not sent to the table, as 
it so often is, a dull brown. To keep its fresh 
green color leave the kettle, in which it is cook- 
ing, uncovered. This course may be pursued with 
any other vegetable where it is desirable to retain 
the green color, like Brussels sprouts asparagus. 
Wash the spinach very thoroughly in several 
waters, as insects and sand are to be found in it. 
Drain and cook 1 o or 20 minutes in boihng salted Cook Pot. 




256 VEGETABLES. 

water ; skim if necessary. Take up, drain and press well. Chop fine 
and put in a saucepan with a piece of butter and a little pepper. Stir 
it over the fire until quite dry. Turn into a vegetable dish ; pound 
it up. Slice hard-boiled eggs over the top. Pass vinegar around 
with it. 

Spinacli a la Creme. — Another change is, when the spinach is 
heated thoroughly in the saucepan, as above, beat in 3 tablespoonfuls 
of cream and let simmer 5 minutes. Garnish with sliced hard-boiled 
eggs. 

Spinacli with Drawn Butter. — Pick over and wash a peck of 
spinach, drain and shake free of water. Put in a kettle without water, 
set over a moderate fire and let ste^m for 25 minutes. Drain in a 
colander, chop fine, season with salt, pepper, and melted butter. 
Mould the spinach by pressing tightly in small cups, turn out on 
slices of hot buttered toast, sprinkle the tops with chopped hard- 
boiled eggs. Pour drawn butter around the toast and serve at once. 

Spinach on Toast. — Wash well, cooking in salted, boiling water. 
Drain and chop fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a sauce-pan 
with seasoning. Stir in the spinach and beat smooth. When hot 
add a tablespoonful of cream, or 2 of milk. Pour upon buttered toast. 

Lettuce. 

Lettuce Boiled. — Many persons dislike this vegetable as a salad. 
They may not be aware that when boiled, minced, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and butter, it forms a delightful addition to the dinner table. 
A Parisian housewife buys a bunch of lettuce for boiling quite as 
frequently as for salad. 

Wilted Lettuce. — Place in a vegetable dish lettuce that has been 
very carefully picked and washed, each leaf by itself, to remove all 
insects. Cut across the dish several times, and sprinkle with salt. 
Fry a slice of fat ham until brown ; remove meat ; heat the grease 
until very hot ; add 1 cup of good vinegar, and pour it boiling hot 
over the lettuce. Be certain to have the fat so hot that when the 
vinegar is poured in it will boil immediately. Add half cup or a cup 
of vinegar, according to the strength of vinegar and quantity of lettuce. 

Lettuce a la Creme. — Lettuces are also delicious when prepared 
as follows: Boil them as above stated and strain well; then cook 
them for an hour in a white sauce made thus : Stir over the fire a piece 



VEGETABLES, 257 

of butter in an enameled saucepan with some flour; add a little 
water, about half a wine-glass, and very slowly a cupful of cream, 
stirring gently all the time. Put in salt and pepper to taste. 

Squash. 

Hubbard Sqiiasli, Baked. — Cut open the squash, take out the 
seeds, and without paring cut up in large pieces. Put the pieces on 
tins or in a dripping-pan and bake about an hour in a moderate oven. 
When done serve the pieces hot on a dish to be eaten warm with 
butter, like sweet potatoes, or peel and mash, seasoning with butter 
and salt. The squash retains its sweetness much better if boiled. 
Squash may be cut and peeled and baked with roast beef, browning 
in the gravy like potatoes. 

Baked Winter Squash. — Boil or steam, mash and let get cold, 
then beat up light with 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 2 raw eggs, 
3 tablespoonfuls milk ; pepper and salt to taste. Put in buttered 
bake dish, sift dry crumbs over the top and bake in a quick oven. 

Baked Squash L'Eleg'ante. — Boil or steam. Drain and put in a 
baking dish, put over them bits of butter, pepper and salt, sprinkle 
thickly with sugar, and bake in the oven a nice brown. 

Squasli a la Crenie. — Cut into suitable sized pieces to fit a 
steamer, place shell side up. When tender, take the pieces in a cloth, 
with a spoon carefully remove the soft part, season with salt and 
cream, and reheat before serving. 

Beets. 

Boiled Beets. — Wash the beets carefully, and do not cut off the 
roots, for by so doing the juices escape and the color is spoiled. Boil 
them several hours ; the time varies according to the age and season. 
When young and small they require about an hour. When they 
are done, pour off the hot water and cover them with cold water. 
Rub off the skin, cut them in rather thin slices and season with plenty 
of fresh butter, salt and pepper, and, if you like, a tablespoonful or 
more vinegar. Keep some of the nicest to slice cold in vinegar for 
pickles. 

Young' Beets. — Boil and slice, pour over them a sauce made as 
follows : Half teacupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful 
butter. Let boil up and turn over the beets. Serve hot. 
17 



258 VEGETABLES. 

Beets a la Creme. — Boil and slice hot. Have cream or rich milk 
seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. Let boil up and pour over the 
beets at once. 

Baked Beets. — Beets retain their sweet flavor to perfection if 
baked. Turn frequently in the oven, but do not use a fork, as that 
would let out the juices. When done peel, slice and season with 
butter, salt and pepper. 

Stuffed Green Peppers. — Immerse the peppers in boiling water 
for a moment, remove the skin, cut around the stem and remove both 
it and the seeds ; fill with a stuffing made from tomatoes and bread- 
crumbs seasoned, and cook half an hour in a moderate oven. If the 
peppers are too ripe they will lose their form. Serve with a tomato 
sauce. 

Okra. 

Okra. — This grows in the shape of pods, is of a gelatinous char- 
acter, is much used for soup, is also pickled and may be boiled as 
follows : Put the young, tender pods of long, white okra in salted 
boiling water in a porcelain or granite saucepan. (Iron will discolor 
it.) Boil 15 minutes, remove the stems, and serve with butter, pepper 
and salt. A little vinegar may be used, if liked. 

Creamed Okra. — Boil young okra until tender ; drain, add cream 
and butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot. Pour over 
buttered toast if desired. 

Okra Gumbo, Creole Style. — Take equal quantities of tender 
okra chopped fine, and ripe tomatoes chopped fine, 1 onion sliced, a 
lump of butter and a little salt and pepper. Stew the whole until ten- 
der, add 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of water to prevent burning. 

Miscellaneous Vegetables. 

Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster. — Scrape and throw at once into 
cold water, with a little vinegar in it to keep them from turning black. 
Cook in boiling salted water 1 hour, or until tender. Add a cupful 
of cream or milk, with a tablespoonful of flour stirred in smoothly, to 
the water in which they were boiled. Season with pepper, salt and 
butter, and serve as other oysters. A small piece of codfish is some- 
times boiled with it. 

Fried Salsify. — Wash, scrape and boil an hour, or till it is tender. 
Put it into a dish and mash it with a potato masher; season it with a 



VEGETABLES. 259 

little cream, butter, pepper and salt, and just a dash of cayenne pepper. 
Set away to cool. When very cold shape into balls, dip in egg, roll 
in fine crumbs and fry brown in boiling fat. Or, after mashing the 
oyster plant, add an egg for each cupful of pulp, add a little butter 
and salt, and, if necessary, a little flour may be stirred in. Make it 
up into small cakes, and fry them in hot butter. 

Brussels Sprouts. — Pick off the outside from half a gallon of 
sprouts, wash in cold water, put in a kettle and cover with boiling 
salted water. Let boil rapidly for 25 minutes, drain, put in a heated 
dish, and serve with cream sauce. 

Stewed Water-cress. — Lay the cresses in strong salt and water, 
pick and wash them well, and stew in water until tender ; drain and 
chop them, return to the stew pan, with a lump of butter, some salt 
and pepper, and let get thoroughly hot. Just before serving squeeze 
in a little lemon juice. Serve with fried sippets of bread. These are 
very nice with boiled chickens. 

Fresh Water-cress. — Wash very carefully, shake dry, heap on a 
pretty dish. To be eaten with salt, as each person likes. 

Grandmother's Dandelion Greens. — When thoroughly cleansed 
boil in plenty of salted water till tender, drain and press till very dry, 
and chop in a chopping bowl moderately fine. Take a large bunch 
of garden sorrel, wash, drain thoroughly, and chop quite fine. There 
should be about one-third as much chopped sorrel as dandelion. Into 
a deep saucepan put a heaping tablespoonful of butter for each cupful 
of the sorrel. When quite hot add the sorrel and stir over a mode- 
rate fire till it has turned brown. Now add the dandelion, stir till 
boiling hot, remove from the fire and add 1 beaten egg for each pint 
of greens, and serve. The eggs may be entirely omitted without 
spoiling the dish. More or less sorrel may be used, according to 
taste, no vinegar being eaten with the greens. The wild sorrel is 
equally as good, but, being very small, requires considerable time to 
gather and prepare. 

Greens. — One peck of greens is sufficient for a family of six. 
Dandelions, cow-slips, yellow dock (the long, narrow leaf), mustard, 
turnip tops, cabbage sprout, lambs' quarters, etc. Separate or mixed. 
Examine very carefully. Rinse in several waters until they are en- 
tirely free from sand and insects. If the last water be well salted it 
will aid in freeing from insect life, especially if they are allowed to 



260 VEGETABLES. 

stand in it a while. Cook in plenty of boiling salted water. Cut 
away all the tough leaves and stalks before cooking. Drain in a 
colander, chop a little, return to the fire in a saucepan, and season 
with butter and pepper. This dries them a little. Serve hot. Send 
vinegar around with them. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. 

Beet Greens. — These are, perhaps, the most delicious greens to 
be had. Wash and sort the leaves carefully. Preserve all the tiny 
young beets there may be among them ; boil in salted water. Drain, 
chop altogether. Season with butter, pepper, and salt. Send vinegar 
around with them. Serve hot. 

Fried Apples. — Choose large, firm apples, rather tart, wash with- 
out paring and slice across, so as to make round slices half an inch 
thick, with the core in the center. Have a spoonful of butter brown- 
ing in the pan and lay the slices in to brown. Just as they are ready 
to turn, if a sweet dish is liked, sprinkle cinnamon and sugar over the 
uncooked side, so that the flavor will go into the apple while brown- 
ing. The old-fashioned way was to fry them in the fat of salt pork, 
and serve without sweetening as a tart sauce with the meat. The art 
of cooking them is to have the slices tender and browned, but un- 
broken. A deep griddle is best to fry them on. 

Fried Evaporated Apples. — Two handfuls of evaporated apples 
soaked 20 minutes in water ; put into frying-pan 1 teaspoon of butter 
and 1 teaspoon of lard ; put in the apples and cover them with 2 table- 
spoons of sugar and a pinch of cinnamon and salt, then 1 tablespoon 
of the water the apples were soaked in ; cover a few minutes, then let 
them brown. Fine to eat with pork chops. 

Fried Bread Served for a Veg-etable. — Cut some bread, which, 
though stale, is still light and soft, into fingers half an inch thick ; 
dip them in milk, and let them drain for a while. Dip in beaten egg. 
Dredge flour over them and fry in a little hot butter in a frying-pan. 
Pile them pyramid fashion in a hot dish and serve with gravy. 

Vegetable Turkey. — Bread, 1 pound ; butter, one-half cupful ; 
nut meats, one-fourth to half pound, 1 egg, seasoning and sage to 
taste. Either mash the nuts in a mortar or chop fine, then put bread, 
butter, and egg into a chopping-bowl, pour on the boiling-water and 
chop fine, season to taste, and mix thoroughly. Butter a pudding- 
pan, cover the butter with bread crumbs ; put in the mixture, and bake 
an hour, or until well done. 




Croquettes form a dainty breakfast or lun- 
<'-/; cheon dish, and are often used as an entree at 
dinner. Many housekeepers think that chicken, 
sweet-breads, or veal, are the only meats from which 
croquettes can be made, but this is an error; many 
canned and fresh fish being well suited for -the dish. 
The following recipes for making croquettes for both the 
family table and company luncheons, will be found dainty and 
economical : Croquettes may be fried in almost any kind of fat or 
sweet dripping. The fat should be hot and the croquette well 
breaded, and fried so quickly that no trace of fat remains. 

The economical housewife spends but little money for lard or 
butter for frying purposes. All scraps of fat from pork and beef can 
be rendered, strained, and set aside for this purpose. The skimmings 
from the meat liquor, as well as the drippings from all roasted meats, 
may be saved and properly clarified, by being poured into a saucepan 
of boiling water, let it boil for ten minutes, then poured into a dish to 
cool ; when cold, the fat will cake on the top, and may very easily 
be removed. 

Beef marrow, taken from soup bones and round steak, is excellent 
for cooking purposes. Cut it into small bits ; put it in a covered 
stone jar ; set it in a pan of water, and place over the fire to simmer 
gently. When all melted, strain through a thin cloth into a clean 
pan ; let it settle for a few minutes ; then press into small jars, and 
tie it securely. It will keep for months. Beef suet, if mixed with 
pork drippings, will be found excellent for plain pastry and cakes, as 
well as for frying purposes. 

A deep stew-pan, fitted with a wire frying basket, is far the best 
utensil to use for frying. The old-fashioned shallow pans do not hold 
sufficient fat. A good deal of fat is required for the stew-pan at first, 
but if properly clarified after using, and a little added to it from time 
to time, it will last for quite a long while, and can be frequently used. 
The fat should not boil, but be smoking hot. Too hot fat burns 
the croquette before it can fry, and too cool fat usually bursts the 

261 



262 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

covering. Another cause for the bursting is, that the article to be 
fried has not been entirely covered by the egg, as well as by the 
bread crumbs. Great care should be taken that every part is entirely 
covered. In covering croquettes, or anything for frying, bread crumbs 
are preferable, as the shortening employed in making the crackers 
attracts the grease. Some cooks prefer fine raspings of a pale color 
to bread crumbs. Save the crusts from bread prepared for toasting ; 
dry, not brown, in the oven. Roll, or pound fine ; then sift, and put 
in an air-tight fruit jar, in a dry place. They will remain sweet and 
good for weeks. Bits of stale bread can be used in the same man- 
ner. Croquettes should be served on a folded napkin, laid on a plate. 
Direct contact with the plate inclines them to fall. It requires as 
much fat to fry croquettes as for doughnuts. 

Where onions are used for flavoring, onion juice is often better 
than the minced vegetable. To extract the juice, cut the onion in 
half and press it against, and pass it slowly over, a grater. The juice 
will run off the point of the grater. If the croquette is mixed with 
egg, breading is enough ; otherwise, dip first in beaten egg, then roll 
in crumbs. 

Chicken and Oyster Croquettes. — One cupful cold chopped 
chicken, one-half cupful sifted bread crumbs, 1 cupful chopped oys- 
ters, 1 egg beaten lightly. Pepper and salt to tast>5. Boil the bones 
of the chicken in water enough to cover. Moisten the chicken and 
oyster mixture with the resulting broth to a consistency that it can 
be moulded by the hands into rolls about the size of the finger. Roll 
in sifted bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. 

Cliicken Croquettes. — One-quarter as much fine bread crumbs 
as meat ; 1 egg beaten light to each cupful of minced meat ; gravy 
enough to moisten ; pepper, salt and chopped parsley to taste. Mix 
into a paste. Make into rolls or balls, roll in bread crumbs and fry 
in nice dripping or a mixture of half lard and half butter. Veal and 
other meats may be made in the same way ; turkey also. Cream 
may be used to moisten the minced chicken instead of gravy or 
broth. Instead of bread crumbs the same amount of stuffing remain- 
ing over from the roast chicken may be used as a savory change. 

Chicken and Calves' Brains Croquettes. — One fat hen well 
boiled, and when cold the skin removed, 2 sets of calves' brains 
boiled and allowed to cool, 1 large kitchen-spoonful of flour, 1 pint 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 



263 




of cream, half a teacup of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely chopped 
parsley, 2 raw eggs well beaten, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1 scant 
teaspoonful of powdered mace, juice of 1 lemon, cayenne pepper, salt 
and nutmeg to taste. Chop the chicken very fine and rub it into the 
brains, add the bread crumbs, chopped parsley and mace and eggs. 
Put the butter in a pan with the flour, and when it bubbles add the 
cream gradually, then the chopped mixture, salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
and stir until thoroughly heated, take from the fire and add the lemon 
juice, then set away to cool. Roll or mould into shape and fry in 
hot lard after having dipped them in egg and bread crumbs. 

Meat Croquettes. — Any one may have croquettes who can mince 
cold meat very fine and stir it into a sauce made thus : One pint of 
milk, 1 table- 
spoonful of 
butter rub- 
bed into two 
tablespoon- 
fuls of flour 
to thicken ; Timbale Irons. 

add 1 teaspoonful salt, and flavor with onion juice or celery seed or 
pulverized dried sage. When cooked add a pint of the chopped 
meat (for half a pint take half of the sauce) and stir well ; then, when 
cold, make into croquettes or balls, rolling in the hands. Dip into 
beaten egg and fine dry bread crumbs, or rolled cracker, and fry like 
doughnuts in boiling lard. 

Sauce for Meat Croquettes. — A very nice sauce to serve with 
croquettes is made of stewed tomatoes put through a sieve and 
thickened very thick, so it will just spread over them; it is served 
from a gravy boat with ladle, not on the dish. With croquettes, bits 
of parsley should be used for a garnish. 

Baked Croquettes. — Free from bones the chicken left from din- 
ner, add the liver left from breakfast, and chop fine. Add the potato 
left from dinner ; mould into cakes and bake on a buttered tin. 

Ham Croquettes. — A cupful of finely-chopped cooked ham, a 
cupful of bread crumbs, 2 of hot mashed potatoes, a large tablespoonful 
of butter, 3 eggs, a speck of cayenne. Beat the ham, cayenne, butter 
and 2 of the eggs into the potato. Let the mixture cool slightly and 
shape it like croquettes. Roll in bread crumbs, put in the frying- 



264 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

basket and plunge into boiling fat. Drain and serve. These cro- 
quettes may be made without the bread crumbs, in which case leave 
out one egg. 

Corned Beef Croquettes. — Carefully remove all fat and gristle 
from pieces of cold corned beef. Chop very fine, as for mince-meat. 
Mix with rolled cracker crumbs. Add 1 beaten egg, pepper and salt. 
Mould into little cones, or cut into cakes with the biscuit cutter. 
Roll in a beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs, then again in beaten 
egg- Fry in a hot spider with butter till nicely browned on each 
side. These are very nice, even with the eggs omitted. 

Sweet-Bread Croquettes. — Take 4 veal sweet-breads, soak for 
an hour in cold, salted water, first removing the pipes and mem- 
branes ; then put into boiling, salted water, with a tablespoonful of 
vinegar. Cook twenty minutes. Drop into cold water to harden. 
Chop fine, almost to a paste. Season with salt, pepper, and a teaspoon- 
ful of grated onion ; add 2 beaten eggs, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 
one-half cupful of cream. Flour the hands and mould into round or 
pear-shaped balls. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs 
and fry in hot fat to a golden brown. Drain and serve hot on a 
folded napkin. Garnish with sliced lemon or parsley. 

Veal Croquettes. — To 1 pint of chopped cold veal (beef may be 
used) add one-half pint of cream, or rich milk may be used; to this 
quantity put 1 tablespoonful butter creamed with one tablespoonful 
flour. Put all save the meat over the fire to thicken ; season it to 
taste, and pour over the meat; mix thoroughly and form into shape; 
roll in bread or cracker-crumbs and fry brown, or, if preferred, bake. 

Liiver Croquettes. — Take what was left of the liver from break- 
fast and the remains of any cold meat from dinner to *' piece out." 
Chop fine and mix with the gravy that was left over. Season with 
a little pepper and salt and onion juice, or minced onion. Add as 
much mashed potato as you have meat, season to taste, roll into 
shape and dip into beaten eggs, then into bread crumbs. Fry a light 
brown quickly. Drain carefully and serve. Bread crumbs may be 
used in place of potato. If gravy is not convenient, use a little hot 
water with a teaspoonful of butter melted in it. 

Shad-Roe Croquettes. — Wash 2 shad roes, put in a saucepan of 
boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and let simmer slowly 
for 15 minutes. Take them up, remove the skin and mash them. 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 265 

Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan and set on the stove to boil. 
Thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
rubbed together ; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, take from the fire, 
season with salt, cayenne, black pepper and minced parsley, turn out 
on a large dish. When cool, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten 
egg, whites left over, then in grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling 
fat. 

Cod's Roe Croquettes. — Make same as shad-roe croquettes. 

Fisli Croquettes. — One pint of cold boiled fish (any kind will 
do), free from skin and bones, and mince fine ; 1 pint of hot mashed 
potatoes, 1 large tablespoonful of butter, half a cup of hot milk, 1 egg 
well beaten, pepper and salt and a little chopped parsely ; mix thor- 
oughly and let cool ; when cold make into balls ; dip into a beaten 
egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. Drain, garnish with 
parsley, and serve. If desired, serve with a cream sauce. 

Codfisli Croquettes. — One cup hot mashed potatoes, one-half 
cup shredded codfish, 1 egg, a dash of pepper. Add the fish to the 
mashed potatoes without freshening, then the egg, beating till light 
and creamy. Shape into croquettes, roll in dried bread crumbs, dip 
in beaten eggs, then in crumbs again. Fry in wire basket, with fat 
just at smoking point. Drain on brown paper. Serve in hot platter 
with parsley garnish. 

Canned Salmon Croquettes. — Open a pound can of salmon, 
turn out in a dish, chop fine, drain, remove bones, add a teaspoonful 
of salt, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of half a lemon 
and a dash of cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of milk in a saucepan 
and set on the fire to boil, thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 
3 of flour rubbed together, let cook 10 minutes, season with a little 
salt and pepper, and mix with the salmon ; turn out on a dish to cool. 
When firm, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten egg, then in 
grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Take up, drain, serve 
on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. 

Oyster Croquettes. — Put 2 dozen fresh oysters in a saucepan in 
their own liquor, and set over the fire to boil for 5 minutes. Take- 
from the fire and drain, chop the oysters fine. Put a gill of cream 
and oyster liquor each in a saucepan and set over the fire. Thicken 
with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of butter rubbed together ; add 
the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, stir for 1 minute, season with a little salt 



266 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

and cayenne and a tablespoonful of minced parsley ; mix well, turn 
out on a large, flat dish. When cool, form into cylinders, dip first in 
beaten egg, then in grated cracker, and fry brown in boiling fat. 

Lobster Croquettes. — One lobster boiled, or 1 can of lobster, 2 
eggs, 1 teacupful bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Salt 
and cayenne pepper to taste. (Instead of pepper some cooks add 1 
teaspoonful mustard.) Chop the lobster meat fine, add bread crumbs, 
the seasoning and the butter. Mix with the yolk of 1 egg. Make 
into oblong croquettes. Beat the remainder of the eggs and dip the 
croquettes first in them and then in bread crumbs and fry to a light 
brown. Drain off fat by laying upon a hot clean paper before dishing. 

Clam Croquettes. — Scald the clams 5 minutes in their own 
liquor. Drain, and chop fine, then mix with the following cream 
sauce : One tablespoonful of butter blended with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Season with salt, a pinch of ground mace and a dash of cay- 
enne. Stir over the fire until it thickens, then add the beaten yolk 
of an egg and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Stir until very thick 
and turn out to cool. When cold, shape into balls, or cones, dip in 
egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. 

Cream Cliestuut Croquettes. — Fifty Spanish chestnuts, one-half 
cupful cream, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 eggs, one-half teaspoonful 
salt. Shell, blanch and boil the chestnuts 30 minutes. Drain and 
pound the chestnuts fine in a mortar. Add the butter and salt by 
degrees, pounding until it is mixed to a paste. Add the cream, a 
little at a time, working or pounding thoroughly. Beat 3 of the eggs 
light and beat into the other ingredients. Put the mixture into a 
double boiler and cook 8 or 10 minutes, stirring constantly. It 
should be smooth and thick at the end of this time if the water in 
the outer boiler has been boiling rapidly. Spread it on a large platter 
and set away to cool. When the mixture is cold, butter the hands 
slightly and shape the mixture into cylinders, cones or balls. Dip 
these in the fourth egg (beaten) and then in fine bread crumbs. Fry 
for one minute and a half. Arrange on a warm napkin and serve at 
once. 

Rico and Meat Croquettes. — 1 cupful of boiled rice, 1 cupful of 
finely chopped and cooked meat — any kind — 1 teaspoonful of salt, a 
little pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of milk, 1 egg. 
Put the milk on to boil, and add the meat, rice, and seasoning. When 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 267 

this boils, add the egg, well beaten; stir 1 minute. After cooling, 
shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry as before directed. 

Rice Croquettes. — Take 1 pint of boiled rice ; add 1 egg, salt 
and pepper ; beat well ; drop by spoonfuls into hot lard, and fry a 
deep brown. If liked, sprinkle with powdered sugar. 

Rice Croquettes, witli Parmesan Sauce. — Boil half a pint of 
rice in a quart of stock until the stock is all absorbed; add a table- 
spoonful of minced parsley, 2 of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a 
seasoning of salt and cayenne. Turn out to cool, and when cool 
mould into croquettes and cook as usual. 

Parmesan Sauce. — Make a sauce of a tablespoonful each of butter 
and flour, a gill each of stock and milk, and 2 tablespoonfuls of grated 
Parmesan cheese ; season with cayenne, and serve poured around the 
croquettes. 

Green Corn Croquettes. — One quart tender green corn, grated; 
1 cup of sifted flour, one cup sweet milk, 5 scant tablespoonfuls but- 
ter, 2 eggs, 1 saltspoonful salt, same of pepper. Grate corn as fine 
as possible, and mix with the flour and pepper and salt. Warm the 
milk and melt the butter in it. Add the corn, stir hard, and let cool. 
Then stir the eggs beaten very light, the whites last. Work into 
small oval balls, and fry in plenty of hot butter. Drain, and serve 
hot. 

Parsnip Croquettes. — Mash cold, boiled parsnips and form into 
small cakes, dip into beaten egg and bread crumbs, seasoned to taste 
with salt and pepper, and fry to a light brown. Serve very hot. 
Oyster plant, potatoes, squash, turnips and carrots are equally nice 
served in this way, and if the quantity of the vegetables is insufficient, 
add finely grated bread crumbs, mix well and season thoroughly. 

Macaroni Croquettes. — Half pound of macaroni broken into bits. 
Put in boiling salted water, and boil 20 minutes rapidly. Drain, and 
throw into cold water to blanch for 15 minutes. Make a cream 
sauce of half pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter blended with 4 
even tablespoonfuls of flour. Put the milk in a double boiler and 
stir in the butter and flour; cook until a paste. Then add a beaten 
egg ; cook for a moment. Take from the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
of grated cheese, a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Drain 
and shake the macaroni, cut it into half-inch pieces ; stir these into 
the mixture, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into croquettes ; 



268 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

dip first into egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in smoking-ltot 
fat. This quantity will make 18 good-sized croquettes. 

Potato Croquettes. — Take 4 cold mealy potatoes, crumble them 
through a sieve and beat up well with 2 tablespoonfuls of cream ; add 
salt and pepper and chopped parsley. Bind the mixture with an egg 
well beaten, then make into small cakes and fry in boiling butter or 
lard. Serve very hot, garnished with parsley. 

Sweet Potato Croquettes. — Boil, mash and season sweet potatoes 
with salt, butter and cream. Add the white of 1 or 2 eggs, according 
to the quantity of potato used, and cream the mixture. Make into 
pats, dip each into the beaten yolks of the eggs and roll them in 
sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and fry until brown in a wire basket. 

Egg- Croquettes. — Egg croquettes are a delicate dish for luncheon. 
Cut some hard-boiled eggs into dice a quarter of an inch in size. 
Mix them with some chopped mushrooms, if convenient. Stir care- 
fully into a white sauce. Turn the mixture into a cold dish to stiffen. 
Mix into croquettes. Fry in hot fat. 

Fritters. 

Fritters should be fried in the same quantity of lard that is re- 
quired for croquettes and doughnuts. The lard should be boiling hot 
so that the fritter will rise quickly to the top. Send to the table im- 
mediately, as they become heavy by standing. Some of them are 
very nice for dessert served with appropriate pudding sauces, or with 
powdered sugar, syrup or hard sauce. Others are suitable for side- 
dishes to accompany meat. Be sure that the batter is not too thick, 
or else it will be too brown on the outside before the center is cooked. 
Do not put a fork in them, as this would cause them to absorb lard. 
Remove with a skimmer or split spoon. 

Fritter Batter. — Two well-beaten egg yolks, 1 cup of cold water. 
Beat into 8 tablespoonfuls of flour. If very thick, add more water ; 
add 1 tablespoonful melted butter and half teaspoonful salt. Beat 
well, then add the beaten whites of the 2 eggs, and beat again. The 
batter should pour thickly from the spoon. Some cooks use 1 table- 
spoonful of olive oil instead of butter, claiming that it makes the 
fritters crisp. Have the kettle of fat deep enough to float the fritters. 
The batter is equally good for apples, banana, orange, or any kind of 
fritters, and is also good for dipping frogs' legs in for frying. 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 



269 




Moulds for Fritters. 



Dessert Fritters. — One pint of milk, 3 eggs, yolks and whites 
beaten separately, flour enough to make a thick batter: beat the 
milk and flour together, add the beaten 
yolks and a teaspoonful of salt, and last 
the whites, beaten very light; drop by 
spoonfuls into a frying-pan with plenty of 
boiling lard and fry till they puff away 
up. Eat hot with hard sauce, although i 
children think them superlatively good sim- 
ply spread with butter and sugared. Omit- 
ting the sweet sauce, these fritters can be 
served plain with meats. This rule can be 
varied by making it with sour milk and 
soda, using only 2 eggs and 1 teaspoon- 
ful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, add to the 
batter 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

Clam Fritters. — Take 25 clams from shell ; if very large, cut in 
two, lay them on a folded napkin to drain ; put into a basin a pint 
of flour, add 2 well-beaten eggs, half pint of sweet milk, 1 cup of 
clam liquor; beat the batter until smooth; then stir in the clams. 
Put plenty of lard or beef fat into a frying-pan, let it become boiling 
hot, put in batter by spoonful, brown on both sides and serve. 

Oyster Fritters. — Make a batter of 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint 
of flour and a little salt ; dip the oysters into the batter and fry 
quickly in hot lard ; drain on brown paper and serve garnished with 
parsley. 

Crab Fritters. — For a 1 -pound can use 2 eggs, well beaten ; a 
good half teacup of milk, a lump of butter size of an egg (melted), 
a pinch of cayenne pepper and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered crackers. 
Mix with crab meat and fry in butter. This makes 7 good-sized fritters. 

Fish Roe Fritters. — Remove the skin from the boiled roe, beat 
it up, season with salt and pepper, add about a quarter of its bulk in 
fine bread crumbs, a teaspoon or so of minced parsley, and a couple 
of raw eggs; drop the mixture from a tablespoon into boiling butter 
or fat, and fry lightly on both sides. (See Shad-Roe Croquettes for 
preparing the roe.) 

Calves' Brain Fritters. — Take the brains of the calf's head, 
which should be removed before cooking, boil them 30 minutes, 



270 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

drain, chop and mix them with a batter made with 1 egg, a little salt, 
1 cup of milk and flour enough to make a thin batter. Fry like 
fritters. Luncheon dish or an entree. 

Pork Fritters. — A nice breakfast dish. Have some thin slices 
of pork freshened. Fry out 1 or 2 slices to obtain fat for frying the 
remainder. Dip each slice in a batter of Indian meal and flour, drop 
into the bubbling fat, seasoning with pepper. Cook until brown, and 
serve hot. The batter may be made of 1 beaten egg, a tablespoon- 
ful of flour, a cup of sweet milk, meal sufficient to make a fritter 
batter. Season with salt and a sprinkle of pepper. 

Beef Fritters. — Cut cold roast beef into fine shreds. Make a 
batter of 1 egg, well beaten, 1 cup of water or soup stock, 1 tea- 
spoonful butter, flour enough to make a batter of ordinary thickness. 
Season with pepper and salt. Add the shredded beef; drop by small 
spoonfuls into hot lard. Fry brown, serve hot with a slice of lemon 
or some crisp dressed lettuce. 

Toiig-ue Fritters. — Slice cold boiled tongue, make a batter as for 
Beef Fritters. Dip the slices of tongue in the batter and fry a nice 
brown on both sides in hot beef drippings or other fat. Serve hot 
with sliced lemon. 

Ham Fritters. — One cup of cold minced ham, 1 egg, 1 cup of 
soup stock, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, a teaspoonful of Worces- 
tershire sauce, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour. Heat 
the stock to boiling point and thicken with butter and flour, rubbed 
together; stir into it the ham with the seasoning; add the beaten egg. 
Let boil for a minute; remove from fire to cool. When cold make 
into small balls, drop into a batter made of one cup of flour, two tea- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, a small cup of warm water, the beaten 
white of an egg and a saltspoonful of salt. Fry in boiling fat and 
serve at once. A luncheon or a side dish. 

Potato Fritters. — Beat up very light some cold mashed potatoes, 
add a little salt, 2 eggs, half a cup of milk and flour enough to make 
it the consistency of pancake batter. Beat very smooth, then drop 
by spoonfuls into hot lard and fry to a light brown. 

Tomato Fritters. — Cook together half a can of tomatoes, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper and half a teaspoonful of sugar. 
After cooking 10 minutes, stir into it a tablespoonful of flour and one 
of butter that have been previously blended. Cook 3 minutes longer 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 271 

and rub through a strainer. Spread on a platter 4 sHces of stale 
bread, and pour the strained tomato over them. Let this stand for 
half an hour, then turn the slices. Beat one egg, and dip the toast 
first in the egg, then in bread crumbs. After that put them into the 
frying basket and cook in boiling fat 2 minutes. Drain well and 
serve hot. 

Siiimuer Squasli Fritters. — Peel and boil tender young summer 
squash. Drain and rub through a colander ; to a quart of the pulp 
add a tablespoonful of butter, 2 eggs, salt and pepper to season ; make 
into small flat cakes and fry a light brown in boiling fat, drain on paper 
and serve hot. 

Celery Fritters. — Cut up into two-inch lengths the tender white 
part of a dozen or so stalks of celery, the nearer the heart the better, 
and plunge them into scalding water. Boil for a quarter of an hour, 
then take them out of the hot water, drain them, and dip each separ- 
ately into a batter made as for Beef Fritters. Fry in hot fat, taking 
up as fast as the batter takes on a golden color. Drain on an inverted 
sieve, or paper. Serve hot on a folded napkin laid on a platter. 

Green Coru Fritters, — One dozen ears of corn, grated and 
scraped, or canned corn may be used by draining and mashing the 
kernels with a potato masher ; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter, salt to taste ; stir, add 2 eggs, beaten separately, 
and a cupful of sweet milk, a spoonful at a time. Bake on a well- 
greased griddle and turn. Test a little at first and add more flour, if 
necessary. One tablespoonful of sugar is an improvement to most 
tastes. Another and better way to fry is to have ready a deep frying 
pan, nearly full of boiling lard. Drop in the batter a spoonful at a 
time. When a pale brown, remove with a strainer and lay on a hot 
dish for a moment to drain. Send to the table at once. 

Green Pea Fritters. — Canned peas will do. Three cups of cooked 
peas, mash while hot with a spoon, seasoning with salt, pepper and 
butter ; put by until morning ; make a batter of 2 whipped eggs, a 
cup of milk, a quarter teaspoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar, and half a cupful of flour ; stir this with the pea mixture, 
beating hard and cook like griddle cakes. One teaspoonful of baking 
powder may be substituted for the other rising. 

Cncuniber Fritters. — A modern way of serving cucumbers is in 
the form of fritters. For this, peel and grate, pressing out all the 



272 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

juice. Add half a teacup of rich, sweet cream, half a pint of flour, 1 
gill of melted butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Beat 4 eggs sep- 
arately, add to the batter, and fry as other fritters. They closely re- 
semble fried oysters. 

Hoiniiiy Fritters. — Beat an egg and a little milk into a cupful of 
cold pearl hominy. Add salt and flour ; drop by spoonfuls in hot 
butter. 

Spinacli Fritters. — Take well-cooked spinach and mince it. To 
each cupful take one-half cup of bread crumbs, 1 scant teaspoonful of 
sugar and a dash of nutmeg. Add a cupful of cream, 2 eggs and as 
much flour as will make the mixture a consistent batter, and stir in 
with the flour a teaspoonful of good baking powder. Drop into 
boiling fat and let fry till brown. Serve hot. 

Cauliflower Fritters. — Boil a cauliflower for a few minutes only, 
separate it into sprigs, and let these lie in a bath, or " marinade " of 
seasoned vinegar for a short time. Then drain and dip each one into 
a batter made with 1 beaten egg, a little flour and a spoonful of milk. 
Fry in boiling fat until of a delicate brown, pile them in the center of 
a dish and place cutlets around. 

Fruit Fritters. — The best batter for fruit fritters is made as fol- 
lows : — Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with a tablespoonful of sweet oil, an 
even saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 2 teaspoons 
of sugar. After mixing these ingredients add a cup of flour, and 
little by little a gill of cold water. The batter may now be set aside 
or the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth may be stirred into it 
at once. If it seems too thick, add another white of an egg. It must 
be just the proper consistency to coat the fruit thoroughly. The fruit 
can be sliced and dipped in the batter, or cut fine and stirred in the 
batter, which is then dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat. Oranges 
should be cut in small pieces and seeded. Powdered sugar and 
cream may be served with them. Peaches are extra nice served in 
this manner. Melted butter can be used in place of oil. 

Orange Fritters. — Four oranges, batter as above. Peel the 
oranges, being careful to take off all the white pith. Divide through 
the natural divisions of the orange. Seed if necessary, but a seedless 
orange is best. Dip each piece into batter and fry deep yellow, in 
plenty of lard made hot for the purpose ; serve on napkin with pow- 
dered sugar. 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 273 

Currant Fritters. — (Very nice.) — Two cups dry, fine bread 
crumbs ; 2 tablespoonfuls prepared flour ; 2 cups of milk ; one-half 
pound currants, washed and well dried ; 5 eggs whipped very light 
and the yolks strained; one-half cup powdered sugar; 1 tablespoonful 
butter; one-half teaspoonful mixed cinnamon aud nutmeg, Boil the 
milk and pour over the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it 
get cold. Beat in, next, the yolks and sugar, the seasoning, flour 
and stiff whites ; finally, the currants dredged whitely with flour. 
The batter should be thick. Drop in great spoonfuls into the hot 
lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. Eat with wine 
sauce, or some other preferred pudding sauce. 

Peacli Fritters. — A favorite New England delicacy is called 
peach fritters. Make a batter from 1 quart of flour, 1 cup of luke- 
warm milk and three-quarters of a yeast cake dissolved in a little 
water. Set to rise in a warm place : this will take from 4 to 5 hours. 
When light add to the mixture 3 well-beaten eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a little salt. Mix 
with the hands as you would raise biscuit. Break off small pieces of 
the dough and spread out thin with the hand. In the center place a 
peach that has been cut in half and the stone removed. Roll the 
dough around it to make a ball and leave on the moulding board to 
rise the second time. When again light fry slowly in very hot lard. 
The fritters are to be eaten with powdered sugar or a liquid lemon 
sauce. 

Pineapple Fritters. — Separate 2 eggs ; add to the yolks 1 cup of 
cream. Put 1^ cups flour in a bowl; add, mixing all the while, 1 
tablespoonful of melted butter ; stir in the eggs and milk. Beat hard ; 
add j^ teaspoonful of salt ; stir in carefully the well-beaten whites. 
Pare the pineapple several hours before frying time. Cut it into thin 
slices ; cover with sugar, and, if you like, a little wine. When ready 
to use, add 1 level teaspoonful of baking powder to batter, dip each 
slice of pineapple, and fry in smoking hot oil. Drain on paper ; serve 
with powdered sugar. Other fat can be substituted for the oil. 

Pineapple Fritters. — II. Take a small can of shredded pineapple, 
and turn it into a mixing bowl ; add the beaten yolk of an egg, a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, a scant pint of flour, and cold water 
sufficient to make a batter that will drop from the end of a spoon. 
Just before baking stir the white of the egg beaten stiff into this bat- 
18 



274 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

ter, and fry like doughnuts in a kettle of boiling fat. Lift out with a 
skimmer ; lay on brown paper for a moment and dust with powdered 
sugar. Serve with wine sauce. 

Strawberry Fritters. — Stem nice, solid, large berries, dust them 
with sugar, add a few drops of lemon juice. Beat 2 eggs without 
separating, add 1 gill of milk, a tablespoonful melted butter, and 
sufficient flour to make a light batter (1 cup). Add ^ teaspoonful 
salt, an even teaspoonful baking powder and beat well. Toss in a few 
berries, cover them with the batter, and drop carefully in smoking 
hot oil. Serve hot, dusted with powdered sugar. Hot lard can be 
used instead of oil. Have it at least 2 inches deep in the kettle. 
Fry a gold color. 

Pear Fritters. — Cook some pears tender in syrup, drain and 
cool, cut in quarters, dip in fritter batter, fry brown in hot fat and 
serve with powdered sugar or sweet sauce. 

Apple Fritters. — Core and pare large tart apples. Cut them in 
slices about one-third of an inch thick. Season the slices with nut- 
meg, then dip them in the batter. See Fr7dt Fritters. Dip them one 
by one from the batter and drop them into the hot fat. Cook for 3 
minutes, then lift from the fat, drain and serve immediately. Pow- 
dered sugar may be sprinkled on the fritters when they are arranged 
on the dish. Maple syrup is also nice to serve with them. Peach 
fritters are made in the same way. If apples that cook easily cannot 
be obtained, cover with water and cook until half done. Drain and 
cool. If a sauce is desired with the fritters, make one as follows : 
Sauce : One-half cup brown sugar, one-half cup water ; when boiling 
add 1 teaspoonful cornstarch dissolved in cold water ; flavor with 1 
tablespoonful of vinegar and one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. It is an 
improvement to sprinkle the apples with lemon juice before dipping 
in the batter. A nice dessert. 

Banana Fritters. — Make the fruit fritter batter, or any preferred 
batter. Slice bananas about one-half inch thick ; dip into the batter 
and fry in hot lard. Sprinkling the bananas with a little lemon or 
orange juice will improve the flavor. Take up each slice of banana 
with about a spoonful of the batter. Sift powdered sugar over them 
and serve. A dainty dessert. If a sauce is wished, the following is 
suitable. Lemon Sauce: Boil 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water together 
15 rninutes ; remove from the stove, and, when cooled a little, add 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 275 

one-half teaspoon extract of lemon and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice ; 
more juice can be added, if liked quite tart. 

Apricot Fritters. — Cover with water and stew evaporated apri- 
cots until tender, adding when half done sugar in the proportion of 2 
tablespoons to every cup of juice. When the apricots are tender 
take them out, leaving the syrup to reduce by boiling until quite 
thick. Dip each piece of apricot into a frying batter made of a cup 
of flour, a tablespoon of melted butter, a small cup of warm milk and 
the white of an e^g beaten light. Drop these fritters into boiling 
deep fat. When done lay on a piece of brown paper in a colander 
a few minutes. Transfer to a hot dish and pour hot syrup over them. 

Coffee Fritters. — Soak in strong freshly-made coffee some thick 
slices of stale bread. Beat up the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, flavoring 
them with sugar and a few drops of strong coffee ; brush the slices 
of bread with this, and fry at once in hot butter ; when crisp, serve 
hot, sprinkled with sifted sugar. 

Bread Fritters. — One quart milk, boiling hot ; 2 cups fine bread 
crumbs ; 3 eggs ; 1 teaspoonful nutmeg ; 1 tablespoonful melted butter; 

1 saltspoonful salt, and the same of soda, dissolved in hot water. 
Soak the bread in the boiling milk 10 minutes in a covered bowl. 
Beat to a smooth paste ; add the whipped yolks, the butter, salt, soda 
and finally the whites, whipped stiff. Drop by spoonfuls in boiling 
lard. Serve with hard sauce. 

Cream Fritters. — Stir the whites of 5 eggs, 1 cup of thin cream^ 

2 full cups of flour and one-quarter teaspoonful of salt together and 
beat hard for three minutes. Fry in plenty of hot lard, using a table- 
spoonful of batter for each fritter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and 
put a spoonful of jelly or jam on each one when served. 

Cream Puff Fritters. — A very nice fritter is made from a batter 
similar to that used for cream cakes and eclaires. Put a cup of milk, 
or water, over the fire with 2 tablespoons of butter. When the mix- 
ture boils add one-half cup of sifted flour and stir thoroughly. Then 
add a teaspoon of sugar and a saltspoon of salt, and when the batter 
has cooled a little add the yolks of 4 eggs, and finally the whites of 2 
eggs. The batter should be stiff enough to roll out on a board. Cut 
it in fritters the size of an English walnut and fry. They rise to an 
immense size, as they are merely shells. These can be made with 
just a stiff batter and dropped by spoonfuls in the fat. 



•276 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

Custard Fritters. — A custard fritter is a very delicate variety. 
Measure out a cupful of milk, add it to half a cupful of flour, pour- 
ing the milk over it very gradually to make a smooth batter. Then 
add a well-beaten egg, and cook the batter in a double boiler for 20 
minutes. At the end of this time add 2 yolks of eggs, a pinch of 
salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let the mixture boil up over the 
stove for a minute or two longer, beating it carefully to thoroughly 
mix it. Pour it into a long, greased pan of proper size, and spread 
it to the depth of 1 inch. Let it become thoroughly chilled. It is 
just as well to stand over night. 

The next day cut it in long pieces, about 2 inches by 3; dip it in 
beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs, handling it very gently, as it 
is soft. Fry it in hot fat until it is a golden brown, and serve at 
once. These are delicious fritters when flavored with a very little 
bitter almond or some grated orange peel. They may be made into 
an excellent, savory fritter by omitting the sugar and adding a table- 
spoonful of Parmesan cheese and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Serve 
with a little grated Parmesan cheese. 

Jam Fritters. — Any sweet raised dough may be used, rusk or 
buns. Let rise until very light. Roll out very thin. Cut in circles 
with a cooky cutter. Heap a teaspoonful of raspberry jam in the 
center of half the circles. Moisten the edges of the other circles 
with water and put them carefully over those which have been heaped 
with jam, pressing the edges very carefully together. Fry the fritters 
at once in hot fat, dredge them with sugar and serve. 

Bread Fritters. — Shape raised bread dough in light, round 
cakes, and leave on the bread-board to rise for a short time. Fry in 
deep fat like a doughnut. Serve with maple syrup. 

Graham Fritters. — Make a regular muffin batter. Have a kettle 
of hot fat, deep enough and hot enough to cook doughnuts. Dip a 
tablespoon into milk, take up a spoonful of the batter, smooth it in 
rounded form on top, and slip it carefully into the smoking fat, hold- 
ing the tablespoon quite near the fat. Then dip the tablespoon in 
milk again and repeat the operation until about 6 muffins (or half the 
batter) are in the kettle. Turn the muffins and let them cook about 
10 minutes. Take them up with a wire spoon to drain them, and 
lay them on coarse brown paper to absorb any grease on the outside. 
Fry the remaining muffins and serve them. 



I 




The true value of salads is not yet wholly- 
appreciated, nor yet the different combina- 
tions of which they are susceptible, nor the 
little economies which they may tastefully mask, nor 
the epicurean extravagance to which they may cater. 
Granted that lettuce be the leading green ; by the addition of fish, 
meat, vegetables, etc., upward of a hundred different salads may be con- 
cocted. When lettuce is not available, celery supplies its place, though 
in rather mediocre fashion. Fresh salads should not lie long in 
water, the withered only long enough to crisp the leaves. The outer 
ones to be thrown away, the inner ones to be parted, well rinsed and 
examined, and if necessary plunged into salt and water for a few min- 
utes. This may free the leaves from any insects that may cling to 
them. 

Lettuce can be kept crisp and fresh for several days if necessary 
by placing the roots in water. Do not let the water come up as 
high as the leaves. When ready to serve the lettuce wash it, leaf by 
leaf, in a pan of cold water and drop each leaf into another pan of ice 
water. It will become crisp in a few minutes. Shake the water from 
the leaves before serving. It is not necessary to have fresh and green 
things for all salads. It is often the case that a small portion of food 
left over from a meal can be used to make a nice salad. A saucer of 
cold beans, either baked or boiled, especially limas, a couple of cold 
potatoes with a small minced onion, some chopped parsley, a slice or 
two of beet and a hard-boiled egg ; a little cold fish freed from bones 
and skin ; cold veal, lamb or chicken, will each make a nice salad 
with the aid of a few lettuce leaves, a little chopped celery (for the 
meat salads) and a mayonnaise. 

A bottle of good salad dressing is a good thing to have in the 
house for use in emergencies, but if you are an adept at making 
mayonnaise you will prefer, as a rule, to make your own dressing. 
Convenience, utility and toothsomeness are among the qualifica- 
tions of good salads, but when we add to these their unquestioned 

277 



278 SALADS. 

claims toward the healthful nourishment of the human body, we have 
an article of food not to be lightly treated. " Salad is nature's lubri- 
cant for the animal machine," says Mrs. Rorer, one of the modern 
authorities on cookery. " People who do not eat salads have pimples 
and blotches and headaches." 

The olive, that is the basis of all mayonnaise dressings, is one of 
the best healing and fattening substances to be found, and thin and 
nervous people especially should learn to use it freely. Salads are 
served at dinners as a separate course, usually having bread sticks, 
water crackers or toasted crackers served with them. Or, sometimes 
they are served with the game course. 

A new fad is that cream cheese, home-made currant jelly and 
fresh unsweetened water crackers are fashionably and most acceptably 
served with crisp lettuce leaves with a French dressing. The com- 
bination of flavors is to many tastes a very pleasant one. 

Every woman should learn the art of dressing a green salad at 
the table, for a salad dressed before it is served loses delicacy of 
flavor. The salad greens should be carefully dried. It is better not 
to use a steel knife to cut it up if it can be avoided. Some people 
always pull the leaves into small pieces, others cut the lettuce with a 
silver fruit knife. Most people like a slight flavor of chopped or 
grated onion. Some rub the salad bowl with a piece of cut garlic, 
while others invariably use a little tarragon vinegar. The oil should 
be very fresh, and if the vinegar is too sour, a piece or two of sugar 
should be added to the dressing. French dressing can be made at 
table very nicely. 

The salad of whatever kind must be served in a glass salad bowl, 
says custom, and it must always have at least an encircling wreath of 
green leaves to frame it. Meat of any kind used for salads should 
be cut into dice, but not smaller than one-half inch or it will seem 
like hash. 

A new way of serving any finely cut salad is to take a large green 
cucumber, cut the ends off and take a slice lengthwise from one side 
until the heart is reached. Remove this carefully and fill the little 
green boat with salad. Let it rest on a bed of lettuce leaves and 
serve one to each person present. 

Vegetable salads are delicious and serve to spur the jaded appe- 
tite. Speaking in generalities, the principal vegetables and their ap- 



SALADS. 279 

propriate dressings are as follows : Asparagus, cauliflower, tomatoes 
are served with mayonnaise. Cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, dandelion, 
green beans, cooked, are served with French dressing. Potato salad 
with cream dressing. Cabbage and tomatoes also may be served 
with a boiled dressing. These rules, however, are not arbitrary, as 
there are other delicious made dressings used with these salads. 

Cliicken Salad. — One large, cold, boiled chicken, 3 heads of 
celery, white part, cut in small dice. Equal amount of white cab- 
bage, chopped. Remove skin and fat from the chicken, cut the light 
and dark meat in small dice and drop the whites of the eggs. Mix 
all together. 

Dressing. — Ten hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful ground mustard, 
1 teaspoonful, level, of black pepper, one-half teaspoonful salt, two- 
thirds cupful salad oil or melted butter, 1 cupful vinegar. Rub the 
yolks of the eggs with the oil or butter (oil taken from the chicken 
liquor is better in this case than either), stir in the mustard, pepper, 
salt and vinegar. Mix this dressing up with the salad. Shape as 
compactly in the salad bowl as possible. Garnish with a double row 
of olives (serve two or three with each helping of salad), or with 
some greens. Cabbage can be used entirely if celery is not conve- 
nient. In this case a heaping teaspoonful of celery seed soaked over 
night in the vinegar will improve the flavor. Strain before using. 
Equal parts of chicken and veal make a delicious salad, and are very 
convenient w^here the chicken is scanty. Lean, fresh pork can be 
used to " piece out." 

Chicken Salad with Cooked Dressing-. — Take 1-pound can of 
chicken, cut fine and season to taste with salt and pepper ; take the 
perfect, outer leaves of a head of lettuce to place on the salad dish, 
and the inner crisp leaves cut fine, and mix with the seasoned chicken. 
Wash all the lettuce ; place the mixed chicken and lettuce on the 
leaves in the dish and put in a cool place until ready to serve. It is 
best to make the dressing in the morning, cool and not mix the salad 
until wanted, as the lettuce will not keep crisp long. 

Dressing. — Four well-beaten eggs, half teaspoonful salt, 1 level 
teaspoonful mustard, dissolving in 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 3 tea- 
spoonfuls sugar, half cupful vinegar, half cupful sour cream, half 
cupful vinegar. Cook by putting bowl in a pan of boiling water, 
stir constantly until it thickens, cool before pouring over salad. 



280 SALADS. 

Chicken Salad with Cream Dressing. — Make the salad accord- 
ing to the first rule, using, if it is to be a company dish, the white 
meat only, and for dressing take Cream Dressing, given in " Salad 
Dressings." Do not mix up with the salad, but pour over the top. 

Chicken Salad en Mayonnaise. — Boil a chicken until it is ten- 
der. When it is cold cut the meat into small pieces. Then mix with 
mayonnaise dressing. Take fresh curled lettuce leaves, and in each 
place a generous salad spoonful of the " dressed " chicken and spread 
over a spoonful of mayonnaise, a sufficient quantity of this having 
been put aside before the mixing. Upon the yellow of the " dress- 
ing" on each lettuce leaf about a dozen capers should be sprinkled. 

Tiu'key Salad. — Take equal parts of the white meat of the tur- 
key and blanched celery, chop together until fine. Boil 3 eggs hard, 
remove the yolks and add the whites cut in bits to the salad. Mash 
the yolks of the eggs to a flour, add sweet cream gradually until you 
have a cup of egg cream ; flavor this with onion juice, salt and pep- 
per. Now add 2 tablespoonfuls of oil and 6 of vinegar and pour 
over the salad. Place on ice half an hour before it goes to table. 
Melted butter can be used in place of the salad oil. A mayonnaise 
dressing can also be used. 

Dnck Salad. — A delicious salad may be made with duck. Boil 
a duck until it is tender and remove the meat from the bones. When 
cold take a sharp knife and cut the meat into small pieces. Cook 
half a can of small mushrooms and cut them in quarters. Have as 
much crisp-cut celery as you have mushrooms. Fill a flat dish with 
lettuce leaves, and lay the pieces of duck on the lettuce, then the 
mushrooms and the celery. Garnish the dish with sliced cucumbers 
and stars cut from cooked carrots. Serve with French dressing, or 
mayonnaise if preferred. 

Veal Salad. — Chop a piece of lean, cold veal (roast or boiled). 
Add nearly as much celery or cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, and 
season with celery salt if celery cannot be obtained. Mix when cold 
with the following dressing : One cupful of sweet cream, 1 table- 
spoonful sugar. Put in a double boiler on the stove until hot. Then 
add 3 eggs well beaten and 1 cupful vinegar. Almost any preferred 
salad dressing can be used. 

Corned Beef Salad. — Chop 1 or 2 pounds of cold corned beef 
fiine, then take two thirds cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon mustard and 1 



SALADS. 281 

egg ; beat all together and pour into the frying-pan, and let it boil up ; 
then stir in the chopped meat thoroughly, cook about 3 minutes, and 
put in a deep dish to cool ; cut in slices. 

Haiu Salad. — One cup of cold ham chopped (from which all fat 
has been cut away), 1 cup of sliced cucumber pickles, 3 hard-boiled 
eggs. Arrange ham and cucumbers in layers, saving sliced eggs for 
top ; pour cream dressing over ; garnish with olives (looks well with 
only the eggs for garnish). Serve with the following dressing, or 
any other preferred one : One tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful 
mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar (may be omitted if wished), 1 table- 
spoonful flour, a very little red pepper, yolk of 1 egg, 1 cupful vine- 
gar. Heat vinegar and butter together. When boiling stir in the 
other ingredients, which have been previously well mixed. Cook 3 
minutes. A good dressing and will keep several days if bottled. 

Tong-ue Salad. — The small end of a cold boiled tongue can be 
utilized for an appetizing salad. Chop fine and add an equal quantity 
of celery or lettuce, and dressing from any of the above rules. 

Cold Pork Salad. — Very nice salad can be made from the lean 
of cold roast pork. Prepare sauce as for veal salad. 

Liainb Salad. — Any nice cold lamb left from dinner can be used 
for this purpose. Cut into small pieces and add an equal quantity of 
celery or lettuce shredded fine, or cold boiled potatoes cut into dice 
and seasoned with celery salt. For the dressing take 1 tablespoon- 
ful of butter, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 table- 
spoonful of flour, half a teacupful of vinegar. Cook until it thickens. 

Sweet-Bread Salad. — Clean and cook a pair of sweet-breads ac- 
cording to directions given in " Meats." When cold slice, mix with 
chopped lettuce or celery, and one-half the amount of cold boiled 
potatoes sliced. Serve with any prepared dressing. Line the salad 
bowl with lettuce leaves. 

Oyster and Celery Salad. — One quart of oysters drained and cut 
in dice, 1 bunch of celery cut in bits. Keep the oysters in a cool place. 

Dressing. — One raw Q^^, yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs, 1 table- 
spoonful olive oil or melted butter, 1 teaspoonful each of pepper, salt 
and made mustard, half a cupful of vinegar. Whip the raw egg with 
the oil or butter. Rub the hard boiled yolks with the seasoning. 
Mix with the raw &^^ and beat in the vinegar slowly. Mix the 
oysters and celery together with one-half the dressing. Turn in the 



282 SALADS. 

salad, first lining it with lettuce leaves. Pour over it the remainder 
of the dressing. Garnish. 

Lobster Salad. — Take a good sized fresh boiled lobster, cut into 
small pieces with a sharp knife. Take 1 large or 2 small heads of 
lettuce, wash, cut the tender inside leaves in small pieces and mix 
with the lobster and some of the dressing. Take a flat dish and 
arrange the larger leaves (not the outside ones) in shells, and put a 
large spoonful in each with a spoonful of dressing on top. 

Dressing. — One tablespoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 
tablespoonfuls melted butter or olive oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet or 
sour milk, 1 cupful of vinegar, 2 eggs. Mix the mustard in part of 
the vinegar, add the rest of the vinegar and sugar. Beat the eggs 
and butter and stir in the milk, then stir the whole into the vinegar 
and mustard, add a pinch of salt and set on the stove to boil. Stir 
briskly or it will burn. This must be very cold before using. This 
dressing is also good on chicken salad, substituting cold boiled 
chicken for lobster. It is better not to mix the lobster and lettuce 
until just before serving. Set on ice until wanted. 

Lobster Salad. — II. The meat from 2 boiled lobsters picked fine. 
Mix with the same quantity of lettuce, cabbage or celery cut fine. 
Or, instead of mixing, put lobster and lettuce or cabbage in the dish 
in alternate layers. Make the following dressing and pour over the 
whole when ready to serve. 

Dressing. — Yolk of 3 hard boiled eggs rubbed fine, 3 tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful each of mustard, pepper 
and salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of vinegar. Beat together 
thoroughly. Garnish the salad bowl with the whites of the eggs cut 
in rings. Lay each white ring on a small, curly lettuce leaf. The 
small claws of the lobster are also used by some with the green 
garnish. 

Salmon Salad. — One can of salmon, drain from the oil. The same 
amount of celery or lettuce chopped, pick the salmon in flakes. 
Arrange the salmon and celery in layers in the salad bowl, and pour 
over it the following dressing : 

Dressing. — One-quarter cupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 
tablespoonful sugar, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 well-beaten eggs, pepper 
and salt to taste. Some cooks omit sugar ; some use cayenne pep- 
per. If too thick, thin carefully with a little milk or cream. 



SALADS. 283 

Fish Salad — Nearly all kinds of cold fish can be made into 
salads. Free the fish from skin and bone, flake or chop coarsely. 
Add to it the same quantity of chopped cabbage, celery or lettuce. 
Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, if convenient. Heap in the 
salad lightly and pour over it mayonnaise or some preferred salad 
dressing; some of those used for salmon dressing will be found good. 
Garnish with tiny pickles and slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Crab Salad. — Boil 25 hard-shell crabs for about 20 or 25 minutes. 
When cool remove the top shell and tail ; quarter the remainder, and 
pick out the meat carefully with a fork. The large claws should not 
be overlooked, nor the fat which adheres to the shell. Cut up an 
amount of celery equal in bulk to the crab meat ; mix both together 
with a plain salad dressing. Put in a salad bowl, and mask with a 
mayonnaise dressing ; garnish with crab claws, shrimps and hard- 
boiled eggs. 

Anchovy Salad. — Remove the bones, head and tails of 6 anchovies. 
Wash 2 heads of lettuce, cut them small, and place on a dish. Add 
6 button onions chopped finely, parsley, sliced lemon, and anchovies. 
Pour over the juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful of oil. 

Shrimp Salad. — Line a salad bowl with fresh lettuce leaves ; open 
a can of shrimps, put on the lettuce, pour over mayonnaise dressing, 
garnish with rings of hard-boiled eggs. 

Egg Salad. — Chop heart lettuce, or else tender cabbage, or celery 
or a mixture, and season with salt, pepper and vinegar (oil if liked), 
and with a teaspoon place it as a border on the dishes. Slice hard- 
boiled eggs and put 4 slices to each individual dish. Pour over the 
eggs either a salad dressing made without oil or a mayonnaise. Or 
use this : Take a bowl that will fit the top of your tea-kettle; put in 
it 1 egg, beaten thoroughly, quarter cup of vinegar, half teaspoon 
salt, 1 teaspoonful of mustard. Steam it over the kettle until it 
thickens like cream. When cold pour over the eggs and sprinkle 
pepper over the whole. The eggs may be sliced. 

Sardine Salad en Mayonnaise. — Chop very fine a small head of 
cabbage and 4 or 5 sardines ; cover with a mayonnaise dressing and 
serve on lettuce leaves with a whole .sardine on top of each one. 
Any lobster salad dressing can be used in place of the mayonnaise. 

Chestnut Salad. — Made from the large Italian chestnuts. These 
are blanched and peeled and cooked until tender, in boiling water, 



284 SALADS. 

slightly salted. They are then taken out and carefully dried, when 
they are sliced and tossed into a little mayonnaise and shirred on let^ 
tuce hearts. Try this for an entree of your Thanksgiving dinner, 
and we are convinced it will prove satisfactory. 

Walnut Salad. — A delicious salad combines English walnuts, 
water-cresses and sour oranges. You will need thirty nuts with the 
meats divided in halves ; lay these on a layer of the oranges, sliced 
thin, and sprinkle them well with lemon juice. Stand in a cool place 
for half a day, and when ready to use arrange in a bed of cresses, a 
pint at least, and serve with a French dressing and wafers. 

Celery Salad. — One good-sized bunch of celery ; 2 tablespoon- 
fuls best salad oil, 1 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a few 
grains of cayenne. Wash and scrape the celery and lay in cold water 
an hour. Cut in half inch bits, or chop coarsely if preferred, and put 
in a salad bowl. Mix the pepper and salt, add the oil slowly and 
then the vinegar, and stir thoroughly into the celery. Serve with 
crackers and cheese. Equal parts of celery and chopped white cab- 
bage can be used if celery is not plentiful. 

Waldorf Celery Salad. — Equal quantities of celery and chopped 
raw sour apples dressed with mayonnaise dressing. This is served 
with game, being in reality a game salad. Alligator pears may be 
used instead of apples. 

Celery Slaw. — Take 1 root of good white celery and cut off all 
the green leaves, put it in the tray and chop fine, then put it in a dish 
and salt it, and put 3 tablespoons of sugar over it and the same of 
vinegar, and let it stand about 5 minutes, and when ready put it on 
the table ; put 3 tablespoons of cream over it ; it is very nice. The 
cream can be omitted if desired. 

Cabbage Salad a la Creme. — Cut a solid, tender head of cabbage 
very fine, and place it in a deep dish. Put in a saucepan over a rather 
hot fire 1 cupful of thick sour cream. Stir in while heating 1 well- 
beaten egg. Add half a teaspoonful each of made mustard and 
sugar, and butter the size of an egg, with a dash of red pepper and 
salt. While cooking stir in half a cupful of strong vinegar. This 
makes a smooth, thick dressing, with a delicate creamy taste. Pour 
over the cabbage while hot and mix thoroughly. One-half as much 
chopped celery can be added to the cabbage as a great improvement- 
A little more sugar can be added to the dressing if liked. 



SALADS. 



285 



Cabbag-e Salad, Hot, with Cooked Dressing-. — One head of cab- 
bage chopped fine, 3 hard-boiled eggs chopped. Salt and pepper to taste. 

Cold Slaw. — Raw cabbage, chopped fine, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per, sugar, and moistened with vinegar, makes an excellent salad. It 
may be served with this dressing : Two level tablespoons each of 
salt and white sugar, 1 of black pepper, 1 of ground mustard ; rub 
smoothly the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, add half a cup of butter 
slightly warmed, mix with the cabbage (this will be sufficient for 2 
quarts) and add a teacup of vinegar. Serve with the whites of the 
eggs sliced and placed on the salad. 

Cold Slaw a la Creme. — Shave one-fourth of a cabbage quite fine 
and roll with a rolling pin to soften it ; mix thoroughly with a little 
salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar ; throw over this a half cupful of 
sweet cream, and allow it to stand before serving. 

Hot Slaw. — Take one-half of a firm, white head of cabbage, cut 
into fine pieces and put in a pan with a teaspoonful of salt, about the 
same quantity of pepper and a piece of butter the size of an egg, 
adding a teacupful of vinegar and half that 
quantity of water. Cover and cook until 
cabbage becomes tender. Stir frequently. 

Potato Salad. — Chop 6 or 8 cold boiled 
potatoes, mince 1 onion. Mix with the 
following dressing : One-half cupful vine- 
gar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, or salad 
oil, pepper and salt to taste, add a little 
chopped parsley, stir thoroughly, mound it 
up nicely on a pretty plate and put sprays 
of parsley around the edge, or serve lightly 
tossed in a salad bowl. If there is not 
enough moisture, add a little more vinegar and butter, 
a salad do not want to be too mealy. 

Potato Salad. — II. Slice cold boiled potatoes, 8 or 10, mince a 
large onion, mix, season with pepper and salt, and pour over them 
in the salad bowl any of the hot boiled dressings used for cabbage 
slaw. Serve hot or let become perfectly cold. Garnish with parsley. 
Onion can be omitted if not liked. 

Potato Salad with a Frencb Dressing-. — Prepare the potatoes as 
above, season with chopped parsley, pour over them a French dressing. 




Potato Slicer. 

Potatoes for 



286 SALADS. 

Mrs. Y.'s Potato Salad Dressing-. — Butter size of a large egg. 
Two medium sliced onions fried in the butter 5 minutes without 
browning. Yolks of 4 eggs, or 2 whole eggs, beaten light, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful 
vinegar. Grate the rind of 1 lemon, add these to the butter and 
onions and cook to the consistency of thick creani, taking care it 
does not burn. When cold add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk. 
Slice 10 or 12 medium sized cold boiled potatoes, turn the dressing 
over them just before serving. This is sufficient for a family of 8 people. 
Lettuce Salad. — Rub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs to a 
smooth paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil (or butter), then add 
one-half a teaspoonful of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and one- 
half a teacupful of powdered sagar. Pour it over the lettuce and serve. 

Lemon Lettuce Salad. — A refreshing way to serve lettuce is to 
make a dressing flavored with lemon. First cut the lettuce small, 
then squeeze a small lemon or half a large one into a tumbler, add a 
little sugar, a little water and a good pinch of salt, and pour the mix- 
ture all over the lettuce. 

Lettuce and Egg Salad. — A nice salad is made with hard-boiled 
eggs, and lettuce or water-cress alternating in a dish, and covering 
with French dressing, or any preferred dressing. 

Lettuce in Southern Style. — Have the lettuce very cold and 
crisp and arrange in layers in a salad bowl, sprinkling each layer with 
the best vinegar and adding a slight powdering of fine white sugar. 

Tomato Salad, Cooked Dressing-. — Peel and slice the tomatoes 
and set on ice. Make the following dressing : Yolks of 2 eggs, or 
1 whole egg, lightly beaten, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, or half 
as much dry mustard, ] teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful pepper, 1 
cupful vinegar. Heat slowly, stirring constantly until thick. Pour 
the dressing over the tomatoes when it is cold. Garnish with lettuce 
or sliced hard-boiled eggs. 

Tomato Salad, Cold Dressing-. — Peel and slice tomatoes, set on ice. 
Prepare the following dressing : 1 egg, beaten light, 2 teaspoonfuls 
sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 onion, minced, 1 teaspoonful salt, a 
pinch of cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls salad oil, or melted butter. 
Mix thoroughly, adding oil last. Arrange tomatoes nicely in a salad 
bowl, in a be 1 of lettuce leaves if possible, and pour this dressing over. 



SALADS. 287 

Mayonnaise Tomato Salad. — Pare medium, round, ripe tomatoes 
one for each person ; put on ice. Do not scald them. Cut out the 
stem end, and scoop out a very httle of the inside. Make little nests 
of tender, green lettuce leaves arranged on a large, flat dish, and 
place a tomato in each nest. Put in the hollow (where the stem was 
removed) of each tomato a large teaspoonful of thick mayonnaise 
sauce and serve immediately. Another way is to slice the tomatoes 
after they are pared, arrange them on a dish, with or without lettuce 
leaves, pour over them mayonnaise, chop the whites of the hard- 
boiled eggs and scatter over the tomatoes. Garnish with parsley. 
When tomatoes first come and are expensive the most beautiful salad 
course for eight people can be made from four small tomatoes and a 
head of lettuce. Freshen the lettuce in cold water, have the pared 
tomatoes on ice. Arrange little cups of two or three leaves of the 
lettuce, and lay in each a half tomato. Dot with a spoonful of may- 
onnaise, and serve at once. 

Canned Tomato Salad. — Canned tomatoes drained, mixed with a 
little chopped or sliced onion and celery seed, and serve on lettuce 
leaves with French or mayonnaise dressing. 

Deviled Tomato Salad, Hot. — Two tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 
teaspoonful of mustard, 1 raw egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, 1 
level teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a dash of pepper to every 3 tomatoes are needed. Select 
tomatoes that are large, ripe and firm, pour over them enough boiling 
water to loosen the skins, peel, and cut in thick slices. The sauce 
may be served hot or cold. In combining it, cream the butter, add 
to it the powdered sugar and the mustard, and mix well. Add the 
salt and pepper, and rub into the mixture the yolk of a hard-boiled 
^g?- For this it is better to use a little sieve. Heat the vinegar, 
then add that, and finally a beaten raw egg. Set over hot water and 
cook until the consistency of a thick cream. When ready to use, 
put a tablespoonful of butter in a stew-pan, add the slices of tomato, 
and when hot serve on a garnished dish, and turn the sauce over 
them. 

Tomato and Celery Salad. — Very delicate. After a heavy din- 
ner a meat salad is best replaced by one of tomatoes and celery that 
is neither difficult nor expensive. One can of tomatoes should be 
stewed with a pinch of salt for a few moments, then rubbed through 



288 SALADS. 

a sieve and the red juice thickened with a little gelatine; a table- 
spoonful is sufficient. The tomatoes can be put in mould to form, or 
merely left to cool and solidify in a salad bowl. If a mould is used, 
turn the tomato jelly, when cold, into a salad bowl, heap round it 
shredded celery, and pour over jelly and celery a liberal supply of 
either rich mayonnaise, or cream salad dressing, and serve with small 
salted crackers. 

Vegetable Salad. — Of vegetable salads the name is legion. 
Almost any cold cooked vegetable can be used. The chief thing to 
remember is to obtain a contrast of color to please the eye, and, if 
possible, have the vegetable of delicate flavor for the main part of the 
salad. Asparagus, cauliflower, beans, peas and carrots combine 
well. Potatoes, cauliflower, beets and carrots go well together. One 
or two vegetables can be used alone. Use any kind of dressing, and 
garnish with uncooked cucumber, tomato, lettuce and an}^ handsome 
fresh greens. Use any remnants of vegetables from yesterday's 
dinner — green peas or beans, boiled potatoes, slices of beets, green 
onions or celery ; cut small and heap together on leaves of fresh let- 
tuce. Mayonnaise dressing, cream salad dressing, etc., are all good. 

Beet Salad. — Take young beets, boil until tender, cut in small 
pieces and set on ice ; add one finely-minced onion. Make a dress- 
ing of 1 pint of vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, salt and pepper. 
Have chopped fine 2 hard-boiled eggs, lay over the beets, garnish 
with water-cresses, pour over the dressing and serve. Or, line a 
bowl with lettuce leaves, or water-cress, lay in the beets, and turn 
over them a teacupful of plain salad dressing. Set on ice till chilled. 
If liked, slice onions and alternate with the beets. Beets may be 
sliced and have a squeeze of lemon juice over them instead of the 
vinegar. 

Hot Beet Salad. — Boil 5 large or 8 small beets until soft ; peel 
and sHce. Put in saucepan 1 cup milk, one-half cup water, one-fourth 
cup vinegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, a little celery salt and a little 
cayenne pepper. When boiling put in beets. 

Water-Cress Salad. — To make a delicious water-cress salad, let 
some water-cress stand in cold water for half an hour until it becomes 
very crisp. Dry thoroughly without bruising it. Mix with a French 
dressing and add a few thin slices of sour apples. Water-cress is 
very nice served simply as a relish to be eaten with salt. 



SALADS. 289 

Mushroom Salad. — Mince the mushrooms into dice and put them 
in a pan with a little oil or butter and a few slices of peeled lemon ; 
let them simmer in this till done, then set them aside till quite cold. 
Now lay them in a salad dish with chopped parsley and chives, pep- 
per and salt, and either a French oil and vinegar dressing or a good 
mayonnaise. 

Carrot Salad. — Put 6 carrots to boil in plenty of water ; when 
half done remove and throw out water and put on to finish in fresh 
water; when done take out, cool and cut into one-half inch dice. 
Make a dressing of 1 small teacupful of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, the yolk of one hard-boiled egg, with a little salt and 
pepper. Line a dish with crisp lettuce leaves; add two-thirds of the 
dressing, then the carrot dice, then the remainder of the dressing. 
A novel and ornamental dish. 

Cauliflower Salad. — Boil a cauliflower until it breaks easily; let 
it drain until perfectly cold. Shred the heart of a white cabbage 
lettuce and mince together a small onion, a few sprigs of parsley and 
grate finely a tablespoonful of horseradish. Place the lettuce first in 
the bowl, next the sprigs of cauliflower, and sprinkle the other in- 
gredients over all. Mix a dressing as follows, and pour that over 
all : A spoonful of made mustard, the beaten yolk of an egg, 2 spoon- 
fuls of oil or melted butter, 1 of vinegar and a tablespoonful of .salt. 

Spanish Salad. — (Rich). One cupful of Spanish olives chopped, 
1 cupful of stale bread cut in dice, one-half cupful gherkins chopped, 
1 cupful of mayonnaise dressing garnished with red peppers chopped 
fine. 

Bean Salad. — Young beans make an excellent salad. String 
them and cut in inch lengths and boil in salt and water until tender, 
drain well, and to a quart of beans add a chopped onion ; take 3 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 of salad oil or melted butter, salt and 
pepper to taste. Beat the vinegar and butter together, add the sea- 
soning and pour over the beans and onions ; mix well and set away 
for an hour or two before using. 

Baked Bean Salad. — If a jar of beans is baked once a week it 
will be found a good thing to have on hand. Warming over only 
improves them, and if one wishes a salad, chop some of the beans 
with a raw onion or two, dress with vinegar, melted butter, pepper 
and salt if found necessary or desirable. Slices of pork which were 
19 



290 SALADS. 

baked with the beans may be served with the salad. Lima beans, 
potatoes and boiled beats, all thoroughly chilled, can be served 
together in a salad. Slice potatoes and beets. Use a French dress- 
ing or any salad dressing. 

Dandelion Salad. — Dandelion appears with the first days of the 
spring. It must be small and white to be tender and sweet. If it is 
old, large and green, it is tough and has become too bitter to be 
used for salad. Cut the root off and wash the leaves with care, as, 
like field salad, it contains a great deal of sand. Drain, dress with 
salt, pepper and vinegar, or with a regular French dressing. A slice 
or two of finely-minced onion may be mixed with the dandelions. 

Cucumber Salad. — Cucumbers should never be placed on the 
table until they have been pared and sliced and laid for an hour or 
two in ice-water. To prepare for the table, take the salad bowl and 
and put in it a French dressing made with equal amounts of vinegar 
and oil, say 3 tablespoonfuls of each, 1 tablespoonful of the vinegar 
being tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. 
Stand on ice a few minutes, then stir in the sliced cucumber, a very 
little finely minced onion can be added, if wished, or the bowl can be 
rubbed with a crushed clove of garlic, as also the salad spoon and 
fork. Do not mix with the dressing until just before you serve. To 
serve cucumbers plain, simply slice, with pepper, salt and vinegar ; to 
most tastes they are improved by the addition of sliced onions. 
Cucumber salad is delicious to serve with boiled or baked bass. 

Onion Salad. — Cut up 3 dozen young spring onions and cover 
with a French dressing. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs. 

Savory Fruit Salads. 

Epicures have recently decided that fruits as well as vegetables 
can be served with salad dressings and make their appearance at the 
dinner table, masked in French or mayonnaise dressing. To prepare 
oranges for a salad, slice them very thin ; serve in flat plates, and let 
each guest prepare her own dressing of vinegar, oil, pepper and salt. 
Mayonnaise is a trifle too heavy for the fibres of oranges, but it 
serves excellently on shaddocks (or grape fruits), that do not possess 
so delicate a flavoring as their smaller relatives. When preparing the 
latter it is wiser to cut the slices into quarters, innocent of rind, for 
Otherwise they are unwieldy. The small toothsome alligator pear is 



SALADS. 291 

palatable with either dressing, but those whose palates are hard to 
tickle lean toward the pleasant tang of vinegar and oil, unmixed with 
egg. A few housewives have introduced these fruits on crisp lettuce 
leaves ; the blending of green with yellow lends a pleasant artistic touch 
and the result of it being eaten together is — " not half bad." 

Apple Salad. — One bunch of celery cut fine, 3 large apples, cut 
in small pieces with celery. Dressing, 2 eggs, one-half cup sugar, 1 
teaspoonful mustard, one-half teaspoonful salt, a little butter and 
pepper, 1 cup of vinegar ; boil a few minutes and pour over hot. 
Tart apples may also be cut up with young onions, with oil, vinegar 
and cayenne. 

Orange Salad. — Use tart oranges. Slice them very thin, cutting 
down the sides instead of across, arrange them in a dish with pecan 
or walnut meats, and pour over them a dressing made of 2 table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice to 3 of oil, with salt and cayenne pepper to 
taste ; or sprinkle a little sugar over the oranges, with some sherry 
and half as much maraschino as sherry. Both salads should be very 
cold. The first one is particularly good with game, and the latter is 
often served in place of a sherbet before the game. 

Salad Dressings. 

Mayonnaise dressing is ordinarily given for all meat salads, and it 
and French dressing are the only two in general use. One made 
with cooked eggs is, however, much richer and can be trusted to give 
far greater satisfaction for chicken, lobster and oysters. The mayon- 
naise being more delicate and including no mustard, is better for 
eggs and for simple greens. The French recipe, as every one knows, 
includes no eggs, and is delicious upon crisp lettuce, dandelion 
greens, cold vegetables and the like, besides which, it can be quickly 
made and is at its best when prepared at the table, just at the mo- 
ment of serving. Mayonnaise is the basis for a number of sauces. 
The juice of boiled parsley colors it green and pounded lobster shell 
renders it coral. Tartare sauce is mayonnaise made with tarragon 
vinegar, and with the addition of capers, a little chopped pickle and a 
slight flavor of chives. Another excellent sauce is mayonnaise mixed 
with chopped cucumber, or grated horseradish. When cold fowl or 
meat is used in a salad, it should always be dressed with oil and vin- 
egar before the mayonnaise is added. 




292 SALADS. 

Mayonnaise Sancc. — Put the yolks of 2 eggs in a very cold soup 
plate and beat until light, add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful of dry mustard, a shake of cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of 
powdered sugar and beat again. Now stir in, a drop at a time, half 
a pint of olive oil, stirring constantly one way all the time. When 
the mixture gets too stiff to stir add a few drops of lemon juice or 
vinegar, then the oil again, drop by drop, until you have used 2 table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice and all the oil. If too thick 
when ready to use, a few drops of vinegar may be used to thin it. 
Never put mayonnaise on a salad until the very last moment before 
serving, or it will liquefy. If there is a tendency 
to curdle put back on ice a few minutes and stir 
hard. Some cooks, to prevent this curdling, add 
half a teaspoonful of the white of an egg before 
stirring in the oil. If it does not thicken properly, 
add more oil. If it is not put on the salad before 
serving, pass it around in a glass or silver pitcher. 
Vinegar can be used instead of lemon juice, or they 
can be used half and half. This will keep some time and may be made 
when yolks are left over from baking cake. Bottle, using a glass 
stopper, or put in a glass can, screwing on the cover. Keep on ice. 

Do not break the yolk until the oil is dropped and the two can be 
stirred together. The trouble of which so many beginners complain 
— the curdling of the oil — comes from breaking and stirring the egg. 
The simple precaution mentioned will effectually prevent all difficulty 
of the sort, and if care be taken will ensure a smooth dressing. Stir 
the oil in very slowly at first, when well started a little more briskly, 
but never pour it in with anything like haste. The dressing, when 
finished, should be about the color of boiled custard, and much thicker. 
By using the whites of eggs a white mayonnaise sauce may be obtained. 
Even the bowl in which a mayonnaise is made should be kept on ice 
to chill it, as well as the oil, eggs and vinegar used in making it. 

French Dressing-, — This is simply two-thirds oil and one-third 
vinegar, 1 saltspoonful of salt and one-half saltspoonful of pepper. 
Place the greens for salad in the bowl. Dissolve the salt and pepper 
in one tablespoonful of oil and pour over the surface, then the re- 
mainder of the oil and toss thoroughly. Pour over all the vinegar, 
toss again and serve. It is very nice to prepare this at table, measur- 



SALADS. 293 

ing the ingredients in the wooden saladspoon. Part, or entirely 
lemon juice can be used instead of vinegar. Some tastes prefer a 
very little made mustard added to this dressing. If the taste of the 
oil is preferred, use the oil first in the dressing, if not use the vinegar 
first, for where one holds vantage ground first, the other cannot remain. 

Salad Dressing- without Oil. — For the benefit of those persons 
by whom oil is not relished, a good dressing may be made in this 
manner : Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till quite smooth, 
adding a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one-fourth the volume of 
white pepper, half a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a 
teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Mix these thoroughly and add cream 
and vinegar in equal proportions to make the mixture of the desired 
consistency. 

Boiled Salad Dressing- (Cheap and Good). — One heaping tea- 
spoonful of mustard ; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; 1 tablespoonful of 
melted butter or salad oil ; 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or buttermilk, 
sweet milk or sour; 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar; 1 egg. Mix the 
mustard smoothly in part of the vinegar, add the remainder of the 
vinegar and sugar. Beat the egg and butter or oil together, stir in 
the cream or milk and pour into the vinegar and mustard, mixing 
well. Let it boil a few moments, stirring briskly. Cool before using. 
It will keep several days, is good and cheap, and can be used with 
lettuce or cold meat ; fowl, potatoes, or any cold pieces are made 
palatable by using this dressing. 

Cream Salad Dressing-. — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs till light and 
thick ; add a teaspoonful of mustard, also 1 of salt, speck of cayenne 
pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, same of melted butter, 1 cup of 
cream or milk, and half a cup of vinegar ; then add the whites of the 
3 eggs, beaten stiff. Put all together in a double boiler; boil until 
thick, stirring well while cooking. Bottle tightly. Kept in a cool 
place will keep for two or three weeks. 

Cream Dressing. — The fortunate country housewives who have 
thick cream can make a delicious dressing by diluting it with one- 
fourth vinegar, seasoning it with salt, pepper and mustard, adding a 
teaspoonful of sugar. 




mmrGAKEs 

Baking-. — Flour should always be 
kept dry, as the least dampness will af- 
fect it. Bread made with milk will be whiter 
and better than where water is used. The 
milk should be boiled, not simply heated and not allowed 
'' to be below a lukewarm temperature when mixed with flour. 

Many housekeepers, however, do not boil the milk, but only warm it. 
Milk-bread needs little or no shortening, and less flour is required 
than is the case where water is used. It also requires less knead- 
ing. An earthen vessel should be used in preference to wood or 
tin, as it can be kept cleaner than the former and will protect the 
temperature of "the sponge" better than the latter. 

One cup of yeast means wet yeast. If dry is used, the cup must 
be filled with warm water. Bread and biscuit should rise in a mod- 
erately-warm place. If too cold it will be heavy; if too hot it will be 
sour. Should a batch of dough become sour, a teaspoonful of soda 
will help it, but this should be used only in an emergency. To have 
your bread rise very quickly, double the quantity of yeast, but watch 
it; do not let it sour. Bread should rise to twice its original size 
before it is ready to bake. Bake small loaves rather than large ones. 
Do not have the loaf too large for the pan ; it will be a bad shape. 

Biscuit and rolls require a hotter oven than bread and a longer 
time to rise. A little sugar or a little butter mixed with the rising 
will keep bread moist. Do not put a cloth around bread or biscuit 
if put in a tin box. In using baking-powder or other chemicals with 
salt, mix them thoroughly with the flour by twice putting all through 
the sieve together. An even teaspoonful of baking-powder to a cup- 
ful of flour is a good proportion. Two teaspoonfuls of cream of 
tartar and one teaspoonful of soda are equal to two teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Always sift your flour. 

Brush the tops of the loaves with butter before putting in the 
oven. This keeps the crust moist. Brush with beaten ^^^ or sweet 
294 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 295 

milk to give a glazed appearance. Raised biscuit rubbed over with 
butter before putting it in the tin will separate smoothly when baked. 
Test the oven by putting in a little flour on an old tin. If it browns 
in one minute the oven is at right heat. Keep the heat steady, and, 
as it lessens toward the end of the baking, put in the rolls and biscuit; 
after they have risen put on more heat and bake quickly. 

Flour can be sifted by the quantity. Baking-powder, in the pro- 
portion of two heaping tablespoonfuls to a quart, can be sifted with it, 
providing it can be set away in a tightly-covered pail. This is a great 
saving of time. Sift together two or three times. Self-raising flour 
and creamery-buttered flour can be bought anywhere. 

Graham flour and corn-meal should be bought in small quantities, 
as they spoil easily. One cup of flour means a full cup before sift- 
ing. Heat the bread-knife before slicing a warm loaf of bread or 
cake, and the slice will be smooth and even. 

Sprinkle a little sugar on top of the bread-dough after it is mixed 
at night and you will have no crust on it in the morning, after it has 
risen. When bread is baked remove immediately from the pans, 
stand on end, that the air may circulate freely around it. Do not 
open the oven-door after the bread is put in until it has had time to 
become somewhat firm. The cold air will have a tendency to make 
it heavy. Never leave the bread on a pine table to absorb the odor 
of the wood. If the crusts are liked crisp do not cover the loaves 
while cooling. To give a wafer-like softness, cover, while still hot, 
with several thicknesses of bread-cloth. One cup of yeast is equal to 
1 cake of compressed yeast-cake. 

A stone jar is better than a tin box to keep bread moist. When 
the loaves are perfectly cold, unwrap and put in the jar ; cover this 
closely. Cleanse the jar from bread-crumbs and scald every two or 
three days. A yard and a half of cheap table linen makes the best 
bread-cloth ; old table-cloths are good for this purpose. Keep several 
so that they can be kept sweet and clean. Flour, age and quality, makes 
a great difference in the bread. It should be smooth to the touch, 
keep its shape if pressed in the hand, and will not absorb as much 
moisture as the more granular kind. It can be used equally well for 
bread, cake and pastry. 

A barrel of flour that will not make good bread to-day, simply 
because the wheat was too new when ground, will, if kept for two 



29G BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

months, make perfect bread, if the yeast be good ; for, after all, the 
yeast is more frequently than the flour the cause of failure to make 
satisfactory bread. When it is purchased in small quantities there 
will always be an uncertainty as to how it will work until after the 
first time it is used. Even in small families it is better to get flour 
by the barrel, as it improves with age. Another thing for the house- 
keeper to remember is that the whitest flour is not the most nutri- 
tious. What is called first-quality flour does not contain nearly so 
large a quantity of the best elements of the wheat as the second 
quality, which is much darker, but gives a sweeter and more nutri- 
tious loaf. 

Serving- Butter. — Butter is one of the most delicate foods, and 
unless carefully preserved, the harbor of disease, not only holding, 
but attracting and developing foreign organic matter. At no time 
before serving should butter be exposed to the air. In well-kept 
boarding-houses and hotels, a cube of hard butter is put on a saucer 
and buried in shaved ice. With good bread and good coffee, a 
square inch of choice butter makes a breakfast. The common but- 
ter-patty is useless for this kind of service. Another method, suit- 
able for a private family, is the cracker jar, because it has a cover 
that fits. Cut the butter in inch squares, line the jar with crushed 
ice, and fill with butter and ice cubes ; serve both. There are prints 
on sale that cut cubes the size of loaf sugar ; they have economy 
and daintiness to commend their use. Send a pickle fork around 
with cracker jar to help the butter. When cut, the pieces should be 
thrown into cold water, so as to prevent their sticking together and 
losing shape. 

Left-over Bread. — Every housewife should look in the bread-jar 
every morning. The whole and half slices of stale bread may be 
used for toast, the smaller pieces to be toasted with care on a pan- 
cake griddle ; then put them into a vegetable dish and pour boiling 
water over 3 or 4 spoonfuls of butter. When ready to use, pour this 
over the toasted bread. Small pieces and crumbs can be used for 
dressing to stuff fowls with, or they may be placed on a tin in a warm 
oven and dried until a beautiful brown, rolled on a board until fine, 
and then kept in a box or glass jar to use in place of cracker crumbs 
for frying oysters and making croquettes. Be sure to roll them until 
fine, and do not use the pastry-board for this purpose, as the crumbs 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 297 

will make it rough. Soft bread crumbs are good soaked in milk for 
griddle cakes ; stale bread can be utilized for a pudding. Care 
should be taken not to use a particle of bread which is mouldy or 
from a loaf which has moulded. 

Brown bread that has grown stale makes delicious milk toast. 
Brown biscuit can be used in the same way. Stale biscuits can be 
cut in three slices each, and browned in the oven for crisps, which are 
relished for breakfast. To utilize cold Johnny cake, cut the squares 
in two as you would a cold biscuit, and toast on a griddle. A loaf of 
stale bread can be made quite fresh by being dipped quickly into hot 
milk, and then baked until dry in a quick oven. 

Biscuits can be warmed to be as good as when just baked by 
placing them in the oven dry, covered closely with a tin. Or dip 
instantly in cold water, put in the oven and heat until soft, warm and 
light. Do not burn. If mush is rolled in flour before being fried, it 
will not absorb so much grease and it will have a delicious brown 
crust that cannot be obtained in any other way. 

To use very dry bread for any purpose, soak it in cold milk or 
water instead of hot. The hot fluids seem to take the life out of dry 
bread and render it soggy. The cold soaking leaves it flaky. Stale 
crackers which taste old can be made fresh by putting them on a tin 
in the oven and shaking them often until they heat through. 

Time for Baking-. — In baking bread, pies, cakes, etc., much de- 
pends on the heat of the oven. Biscuit and gingerbread need a quick 
oven; bread, a steady heat, not too hot. Fruit cake should be baked 
rather slowly and requires more cooking than a plain cake. Cookies 
want a quick oven and close attention or they will burn. Fruit pies, 
especially apple, should be baked rather slowly, so the fruit may be 
thoroughly cooked. Cake should not be disturbed while baking. 

Table of Proportions. 

Use 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses ; 1 teaspoonful soda 
to 1 pint sour milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder to 1 quart flour ; 
one-half cupful of yeast or one-quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 
pint liquid ; 1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 teaspoonful 
salt to 2 quarts flour ; 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart soup ; 1 scant 
cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for bread; 1 scant cupful of 



298 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins ; 1 scant cupful of liquid 
to 1 full cupful of flour for batters. 

Potato Yeast. — Pare and grate 4 medium potatoes, pour on 3 
pints of boiling water, add 1 cup sugar, one-half cup salt, one-quarter 
cake compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry yeast, or 1 cupful of soft yeast, 
whichever is convenient. Let the batter cool partly before adding 
the yeast. Stir thoroughly. It will be light as a foam next day. 
Renew while there is still enough of the old yeast to start the new 
lot. Clean the yeast jug thoroughly before starting anew. One tea- 
cupful of this yeast will make 4 or 5 loaves of bread. 

Hop Yeast. — One pint hot mashed potatoes ; one-half pint salt ; 
one-half pint sugar ; one-half pint flour ; one-half pint hops (meas- 
ured lightly) ; 4^ quarts boiling water ; one-half pint yeast, or 1 
cake compressed yeast. Put the hops in a stewpan with 1 pint of 
boiling water, and boil for 20 minutes. Mix the potatoes, sugar, 
flour and salt, and strain the hop water on them. Beat this mixture 
well, and add the 4 quarts of boiling water. Let this stand until 
blood-warm, then add the yeast, stirring well. Cover the bowl and 
let stand 24 hours. Skim and stir the yeast several times. Put in 
jugs and cork tightly. Keep in a cool place. It will keep two 
months. In making bread with it use very little salt. If yeast seems 
at all doubtful, stir in a little saleratus before using it. If it does not 
foam well, it is too stale. 

Yeast Cakes. — Boil a large handful of hops in a quart of water 
for half an hour. Stir it slowly and smoothly into one-half cup wheat 
flour. When lukewarm add 3 cakes of yeast, previously soaked in a 
little warm water, or 1 large cupful of fresh soft yeast. Set in a warm 
place until very light, then thicken with cornmeal until stiff enough to 
roll out. Cut in small square cakes. Dry in the shade or in a warm 
oven. Turn often to keep from souring. When dry, tie in a bag 
and keep in a cool, dry place. Soak a cake in warm water when 
wanted for yeast. This ought to make 3 loaves of bread. It is con- 
venient to make this yeast for warm weather. It will keep 5 or 6 months. 

Baking- Powder, Home Made. — Ten ounces of cornstarch, 9 
ounces of bicarbonate of soda, 18 ounces of cream of tartar. Sift 
several times. Put in tight jars or cans. 

Baking- Powder. — II. One ounce super-carbonate soda, 7 drachms 
tartaric acid (powdered). Roll smoothly on a baking board and stand 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 299 



in the sun. Sift several times. When thoroughly dry put in tight 
glass jars or bottles. Use 1 teaspoonful of this powder to 1 quart of 
flour. Tartaric acid is used as being purer than cream of tartar. 

Water Bread. — Half a cake of compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry 
yeast, or 1 cupful of soft yeast. If cither compressed or dry yeast is 
used, fill up the cup with warm water. Dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of 
lard and 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar in 1 quart of warm water. 
Then gradually stir in a pint and one-half of flour ; add a cup of 
yeast mixture, and then a teaspoonful of soda. Beat hard and set to 
rise in a moderately warm place where the temperature will not fall 
during the night. 

In the morning sift 2 quarts of fresh flour into a deep bread-tray, 
and add a teaspoonful fo fine salt. Make a hole in the middle of 
the heap, pour in the risen 
sponge, and work the flour 
down into it with the hands. 
If too soft, add more flour. 
If stiff, rinse out the bowl in 
which the sponge was set, 
with a little lukewarm water, 
and work this in. Flour the 
hands and knead hard, always 
toward the centre of the 
mass, which should be fre- 
quently turned around. 

Knead long and briskly, 
proper length of time 





Flour Sifter. 



From 20 minutes to half an hour is the 
When the dough is of the right texture, 
cover with a cloth, and leave it 4 or 5 hours to rise in a warm place, 
where there are no draughts. Then knead again for 10 minutes or so, 
divide into loaves, place in well-greased pans and set the pans in a 
warm place to rise for an hour. 

In winter it will be found a good plan to heat the flour. Set a 
pan of sifted flour over a kettle of boiling water, or, better still, in the 
heating oven of a range. Lime water in bread has been found to 
produce the lightness and softness of alum without its injurious 
qualities ; it also prevents acidity. Use in the proportion of 1 table- 
spoonful of the saturated solution to each loaf of bread. One cup- 
ful of air-slaked lime in 1 quart of water will make the solution. 



300 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

Potato Spoug-e Bread. — One quart boiling water; 4 large pota- 
toes ; one-half cup yeast, or one-third cake compressed yeast ; 1 
tablespoonful salt; about 3 quarts and 1 pint of flour. This will 
make 4 large or 6 medium-sized loaves. Cover the potatoes with 
boiling water. Cook them for half an hour; then drain and mash 
them. Pour the boiling water on them. Let this stand until it is 
blood-warm ; then add the yeast and 3 quarts of flour, beating it in 
with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and then with a board 
or tin cover, and let it rise over night — 9 or 10 hours. In the 
morning beat in the salt and half of the remaining flour. Use the^ 
remainder of the flour for kneading the bread on the board. Knead 
for 20 minutes or half an hour. Put the dough back into the bowl 
and cover it; let it rise to double its size; shape into loaves, and let 
them rise to double their original size. Bake for 1 hour in a moder- 
ately hot oven. The addition of a tablespoonful of sugar, and 2 or 3 
of butter, improves the bread for some tastes. If these be used, add 
them with the salt when the bread is kneaded. Scalding buttermilk or 
whey may be used instead of boiling water, and will be found an 
improvement. 

Quick Bread, Wheat. — One cake of yeast dissolved in half cup 
cold water; 1 tablespoonful sugar; half teaspoonfnl salt; half pint 
cold milk; half pint boiling water. Stir in the dissolved yeast. Sift 
in flour until stiff as can be stirred. Put on the moulding-board and 
knead 5 minutes. Butter a jar or deep pan thoroughly, and put the 
bread in it. Set in a warm place to rise for 3 hours. Make into 
loaves, butter and prick the tops. Set to rise again for 1 hour, and 
then bake 1 hour. Wash the top over with milk and set on end to 
cool. This is extra-nice bread and can be made between breakfast 
and dinner, saving the trouble of setting a sponge over night. Com- 
pressed yeast is best to use — half a cake. 

Entire Wlieat Bread. — Two quarts of unsifted flour ; 1 ^ pints 
warm water ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; 1 tablespoonful of sugar ; 
half tablespoonful salt; half cake compressed yeast, or half cup 
home-made yeast. After sifting the flour into a bread-bowl, put aside 
a cupful for use in kneading the bread, and put the sugar and salt 
with the remainder. If the yeast be compressed, dissolve it in a small 
quantity of water. Pour the remaining water and the yeast into the 
bowl, and finally add the butter, somewhat softened by standing in a 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 301 

warm place for a while. Beat the dough vigorously with a strong 
spoon, and when it gets smooth and light sprinkle a moulding-board 
with a part of the flour that was reserved, and turn out upon the 
board. Knead until smooth and elastic, say from 20 minutes to half 
an hour ; then return to the bowl, and after covering first with a clean 
towel, and then with a tin or wooden cover, let it rise over night in a 
warm place. This quantity will make 2 loaves of bread and 1 pan 
of rolls. When it has risen, butter lightly 2 bread-pans and 1 roll- 
pan. Make enough rolls to fill the pan, shaping them with the 
hands ; then put the remainder of the dough on a board, and divide 
it into 2 loaves. Let the rolls and loaves rise till they are double 
their original size ; then bake in a moderate oven — the rolls for half 
an hour and the bread for an hour. Entire or whole wheat flour is 
the whole wheat, husk excepted, ground to a fine flour. Graham is 
a coarse-ground wheat meal. The rolls and bread are brown and 
delicious. Some cooks do not knead it at all, simply stirring and 
beating the dough until it is a moderately stiff batter. Pour this in 
greased pans and let rise over night. Fill the pans one-third full. 
Bake after breakfast. Wholesome and delicious for every one, but 
invaluable for invalids, since all the nutritious portions, which are 
rejected in white flour, are retained in entire wheat flour. 

Quick Buttermilk Bread. — One pint of buttermilk, Ij^ tea- 
spoons of soda, half cupful shortening, pinch of salt, flour to make 
a medium dough. Bake at once. 

Baking Powder Bread. — One quart flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 
half teaspoonful sugar, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, half 
medium-sized cold boiled potato, and water. Sift together flour, salt, 
sugar and baking powder ; rub in the potato ; add water to mix 
smoothly and rapidly into a stiff batter, about as soft as for pound- 
cake ; about a pint of water to a quart of flour will be required — 
more or less, according to the brand and quantity of the flour used. 
Do not make a stiff dough, as in yeast bread. Pour the batter into a 
greased pan, 4:j4 by 8 inches and 4 deep, filling about half full. The 
loaf will rise to fill the pan when baked. Bake in a very hot oven 
45 minutes, placing paper over first fifteen minutes' baking, to prevent 
crusting too soon on top. Bake immediately after mixing. 

Salt-Rising- Bread. — Pour upon a teacupful of milk sufficient 
boiling water to bring it to blood temperature ; must not be too hot 



302 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

or you will fail ; add a very little salt and sugar, one-fourth of a tea- 
spoonful of each; then stir in 1 large teaspoonful of corn meal or 
Graham flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of wheat flour ; mix all up to the 
consistency of pancake batter and set to rise by placing the cup or 
bowl containing it in warm water; should water gather on top dust 
a little flour and stir. If set in the early morning it will rise at noon. 
Sift 3 or 4 quarts of flour and spread in a pan, so as to leave a large 
hollow in the centre, and put in 1 tablespoonful of sweet lard or butter. 
Pour over this 3 quarts of warm water, or milk and water, half and 
half. Add the rising. Mix and work into loaves. Rub butter over 
each. Put in deep tins, and, when it rises to the top, bake about 40 
minutes in a well-heated oven. Let cool uncovered, and put away in 
a large stone jar. This is good, sweet, digestible bread. 

Wheat and Indian Bread. — Sift in a pan 4 quarts of Indian 
meal ; stir in enough boiling water to make a very stiff batter, stiff 
enough to hold a spoon upright. Let the batter cool until it is 
blood-warm, then stir in 2 quarts of sifted wheat flour, a tablespoon- 
ful of salt and 2 spoonfuls of molasses. Finally add a small teacup of 
yeast. Mix the bread thoroughly, put in a pan, grease it well on top 
and let it rise over night. In the morning, when it shows signs of 
cracking, put it in a moderately hot stove-oven and cover it well with 
brown paper and let it bake for two or three hours, or, if you prefer, 
steam it for five hours and bake it one hour covered in a slow oven. 
This is good, sweet, nutritious bread. 

Boston Brown Bread. — One coffee-cup corn meal, 1 coffee-cup 
rye flour, 1 coffee-cup Graham flour. Sift together and add 2 cups 
of New Orleans molasses. Mix all together with 2 cups of sweet 
milk, 1 cup of sour milk, 1 heaping teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. 
Pour the mixture in a tin pail ; cover ; put it in a kettle of cold 
water; set over the fire and let boil 4 hours. Butter the pail 
thoroughly. Cook it as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too 
thin, but it is not, as this recipe has never been known to fail. Serve 
warm with baked beans or turkey. The bread should not quite fill 
the pail, as it must have room to swell. See that the water does not 
boil up to the top of the pail ; also take care that it does not stop 
boiling. To serve it remove the lid and set it for a few moments 
into the open oven to dry the top, and it will then turn out in perfect 
shape. This bread can be used as a pudding, served with a sauce 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 303 

made of thick, sour cream, well sweetened and seasoned with nut- 
meg ; or it is good toasted the next day. It can be put in a buttered 
mould and steamed 4 hours instead of boiled. 

Baked Brown Bread. — Two cups of Indian meal, 2 cups rye 
flour or Graham, three-quarters cup of molasses, 1 teaspoonful soda, 
one-half teaspoonful salt ; sour milk enough to make a batter about 
like cake. Have moderate oven; bake slowly 4 or 5 hours. Sweet 
milk or water can be used in making the batter, and 2 teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder sifted with the flour, instead of the soda. 

Graliain Bread. — Two cups of wheat flour, 4 cups of Graham 
flour, 2 cups of warm milk, 1 cake of compressed yeast, half cup of 
molasses, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in the 
water. Make as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Let it rise over 
night. In the morning beat it a little, form in one or two loaves, put 
in pans, and when it rises again, bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. 

Quick Graliam Bread. — One pint sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, 
half cup molasses, half teaspoon salt. Stir in Graham flour to make 
a stiff dough, and bake in a quick oven. A little shortening makes it 
more tender. 

Indian Bread. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal with 1 quart of milk 
or water ; boiling milk and water can be used, half and half When 
cool add : 1 pint of Graham flour, 1 cup of wheat flour, 2 tablespoons 
of butter (melted), 1 teaspoon of salt, half cupful of yeast. If yeast 
cakes are used, 1 will answer. Dissolve it, and fill the cup half full of 
warm water. Do this at night. In the morning stir down ; put in a 
well-buttered pan, letting it rise first for half an hour, and bake slowly. 

New Orleans Corn Bread. — One and one-half pints corn-meal, 
half pint flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoons- 
ful baking powder, 1]^ pints milk, 1 tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs. Sift 
together corn-meal, flour, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard, cold ; 
add eggs (beaten), and the milk; mix into a moderately stiff batter; 
pour from bowl into a shallow cake-pan. Bake in rather hot oven 
30 minutes. 

Rye Bread. — One cup yeast, 1 pint of warm water to 2 pints of 
rye flour, and 1 pint of wheat flour ; 2 tablespoonfuls lard or butter ; 
2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Beat together, and let rise over night. 
In the morning mix with this : 1 quart of warm milk, 1 cup of Indian 
meal, enough rye flour to make into dough. Knead ; cover ; set in 



304 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

a warm place to rise 2 or 3 hours. Knead again, and make into 
loaves. If there is the least tendency to sourness, add a teaspoonful 
of soda, dissolved in warm water. It is best to always add this in 
warm weather. Rub soda smooth with a knife blade before measuring. 
Oat Meal Bread. — Half pint oat meal, ^y,, pints flour, half 
teaspoonful salt, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-quarters pint of 
milk, 1 1/2 pints salted water. Boil the oat meal in water for 1 hour; 
add milk ; set aside until cold. Then place in bowl, sift together 
flour, salt, and powder, and add. Mix together smoothly and deftly; 
bake in greased tin 45 minutes, protected with paper 20 minutes. 

Biscuit. 

Sug-gestions. — It is a mistake to make a large tea biscuit. Prop- 
erly speaking, a tea biscuit should not be more than two inches in 
diameter and proportionately thick when baked. This gives a deli- 
cate, moist, flaky biscuit, which will be cooked through before the out- 
side crust has become hard or overbrown. Most people hurry to get 
biscuits in the oven after they are mixed. Those made with sweet 
milk and baking powder are much nicer if, after cutting out and put- 
ting in the pans, they rise for a while before baking. If mixed in the 
evening they may even wait till morning to bake, and are more like 
light rolls. If not quite milk enough use half water. 

Substitution of Baking- Powder. — When a recipe calls for bak- 
ing powder and it is not at hand, use cream of tartar and soda in the 
proportion of 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar to 1 teaspoonful of 
soda. Two teaspoonfuls of baking powder called for in a recipe may 
be replaced by 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one-half tea- 
spoonful soda, — always seeing that the two together equal two-thirds 
of the amount of baking powder called for, and vice versa. Level 
teaspoonfuls of cream tartar and soda are meant. When a recipe 
calls for sweet milk or cream and it is not at hand, use sour milk or 
cream and use with it baking soda in the proportion of 1 level spoon- 
ful to a pint of sour milk. If soda biscuits are yellow it is owing to 
too much soda. Soda must be varied according to the sourness of 
the milk, milk that has just turned requiring a little less than the 
amount above given, and milk that is very sour requiring a little 
more. This rule applies to any case where sour milk is used. 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. .305 

Cream of Tartar and Soda Biscuit, Without Milk. — One quart 
of flour, 2 heaping teaspoons of butter chopped in the flour, 2 cups 
cold water, 2 teaspoons cream tartar, sifted with the flour, 1 teaspoon- 
ful soda dissolved in hot water, one-half teaspoon salt. Stir the dis- 
solved soda in the cold water. Mix the dough very quickly, having 
it just stiff enough to handle and roll. Bake in a quick oven. 

Buttermilk Biscuit. — For four persons take I pint moderately 
sour buttermilk and stir in it a rounding teaspoonful of baking soda. 
Pour into the flour bowl where there has been made a hole in the 
middle of the flour. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and half a cup of 
soft lard. Mix with the fingers into a soft dough. Do not get in too 
much flour — it must be quite soft. Roll out 1 inch thick or a little 
more, place not too close together on a tin and bake in a very hot 
oven. This is a thoroughly tested recipe. Maple syrup, honey or 
preserves make an excellent accompaniment. 

Raised Graham Biscuit. — One pint milk or water, 1 tablespoon- 
ful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, half cup yeast. (If dry yeast is 
used, take half cake of yeast dissolved in half cupful warm water.) 
Use enough of wheat flour to make a thin batter ; add the remain- 
der of the ingredients and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in 
with a spoon. Set away until morning. In the morning butter a 
pan, and with floured hands tear off bits of dough the size of an egg, 
roll lightly between the palms, put in the pan, let rise 20 minutes and 
bake in a hot oven. 

Rolls. 

Fresh rolls may be kept on hand by putting in a refrigerator 
some of the fresh sponge and letting it rise when needed. A com- 
mon cause of failure in making fancy bread and rolls is mixing the 
dough too stiff; it should be soft enough to be easily worked, without 
being in the least sticky. 

Eg-g- Rolls. — Two eggs, well beaten, 1 small cup of milk, 1 table- 
spoon of lard or melted butter, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, and 
enough flour to make a stiff biscuit. Roll out, cut desired size, bake 
in a hot oven. Nice biscuit for tea. If liked, add 2 tablespoonfuls 
of white sugar. 

Parker House Rolls (with Baking- Powdei'). — These are not the 
old original Parker House Rolls, like the following, but are quicker 
made : Sift 3 tablespoonfuls of baking powder with I quart of flour; 
20 




306 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND MOT CAKES. 

put in 1 tablespoonful of cold butter ; add 1 well-beaten egg, 1 table- 
spoonful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful salt ; rub well together, and 
make into a dough, with 1 pint of cold milk. Roll out less than half- 
inch thick. Cut with a large biscuit-cutter. Spread soft butter over 
the top of each, fold them together, and lay a little apart on greased 
tins. Brush over the tops with sweet milk and set immediately in a 
hot oven. 

Parker House Rolls. — Melt a piece of butter size of an egg in a 
pan of milk, add a teaspoon of salt and 3 teaspoons of sugar, 

and when lukewarm add half yeast 
cake dissolved in warm water and stir 
in all the flour it will take smoothly. 
Don't knead. Set in a pan of warm 
^°° ■ water, and when raised to twice its bulk 

stir down. Mix at noon for supper and stir down 3 or 4 times. 
About ly^ hours before supper turn out on the board with as little 
flour as possible and roll out three-fourths inch thick, cut with an oval 
cutter, dip in cream or melted butter, and fold ends together, or put a 
tiny piece of butter in each fold (cream is best). Let rise at least an 
hour; bake in a hot oven till brown. Should bake in 10 to 15 
minutes. Some of the ordinary bread sponge treated the same way 
is nearly as good. The secret is in the cream or melted butter, as 
they go into tins. 

Vienna Rolls. — Two pounds of sifted flour banked around pan, 
one-half pint of milk, one-half pint of water ; mix to a thin batter, 
quickly add one-half pint of milk in which has been dissolved 1 tea- 
spoon of salt and 1 compressed yeast cake ; leave remainder of flour 
against side of pan ; cover and keep free from air 50 minutes ; then 
mix in rest of the flour until dough leaves side and bottom of pan ; 
let stand for 2^4 hours. Divide into 1 pound pieces ; subdivide into 
12 pieces. Flatten these small pieces of dough in squares three- 
quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to the centre, pinch them 
down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made over on a 
board covered with cloth ; let them stand for about 10 minutes, turn 
them up again on a baking-pan, and put into a hot oven to bake 
quickly, for about 15 minutes ; when half done brush them with milk, 
return them to the oven and finish baking. Some trouble, but the 
result i.s delicious, 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 307 

Bread Twist Rolls. — Take enough bread dough in the morning 
for a tin of rolls. Work in 1 tablespoonful butter or lard. Divide 
the dough into parts the size of an egg, subdividing each of these 
into 2 unequal pieces. The largest piece form into a taper roll. Lay- 
in a buttered pan. Do not let touch. Divide the smaller pieces into 
3 pieces each. Roll these longer than the others and braid. Place a 
braid on the top of each large roll, pinch the ends of the two together, 
wash over with milk and bake. 

Frencli Rolls, Raised. — Two cups sweet milk, three-quarters of 
a cup of butter and lard mixed, one-half cup of yeast, or one-half 
cake of yeast dissolved in one-half cup of water, 1 teaspoonful salt. 
Flour to make a stiff dough. Let rise over night. In the morning 
add 2 well-beaten eggs, knead and let rise again. Make into balls 
the size of an egg. Then roll each one between the hands to make a 
long roll (about 3 inches long). Place close together in even rows on 
well-buttered pans. Cover and let rise again. Bake in a quick oven 
to a delicate brown. Glaze with sweet milk before baking. 

Buns. 

Caraway Buns. — Make as for lemon buns, adding 1 heaping 
teaspoonful caraway seeds. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Three cupfuls of milk, 1 cup of soft yeast, or 
1 cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 1 cup of warm water. Flour 
to make a thick batter. Set as a sponge overnight. In the morning, 
add half cupful of melted butter, 1 cupful sugar, half nutmeg, grated, 
1 saltspoonful salt. Add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Form 
into balls, flatten out with the hand, and mark deeply in the form of 
a cross with the back of a knife. Lay on buttered tins, and set to 
rise, and bake when light. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of corian- 
der seeds. 

Oat Meal Puflfs. — Sift together one-half pint oat meal, one-half 
pint Graham flour, one-half pint wheat flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, one- 
half teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder; add 3 well-beaten 
eggs, 1 pint sweet milk. Mix into a thin batter, then half fill well- 
greased gem pans, and bake in hot oven 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot. 

Rusks. 
Yeast Rusks. — One-half pint sweet milk, 1 teacup yeast, or 1 
compressed yeast cake, 2 eggs; mix with flour to stiff batter and 



308 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

raise ; then add 1 cup butter, one-half cup sugar, one teaspoon soda, 
little nutmeg ; let rise again ; then knead and mould into shape; let 
rise and bake; when done, wet top with eggs, sprinkle with sugar, 
and return to oven again for a moment. Serve hot. 

Dried Rusks. — Make as above with yeast. When ready to 
bake, roll out 1 inch thick. Cut in round cakes with a biscuit cutter, 
and arrange in a buttered baking-pan in two layers, one laid carefully 
upon another. Butter slightly between them. Let rise half an hour, 
and bake. When done, lift apart and throw loosely in the pan. Put in 
the oven when the fire is low, and leave all night; when sufficiently dried 
and browned, put in a clean muslin bag and hang up in the kitchen. 
It will be at least three days before they are ready to use. To serve, 
put as many as desired in a deep dish, and pour cold milk over them. 
When soft, drain and eat with butter or cream. Good with coffee, 
served dry ; nice for invalids. Will keep for weeks. Rusks baked 
in the ordinary form can be sliced lengthwise in two or three slices, 
after they have cooled, and dried in the same way. 

Gems. 

Graliam Gems. — Mix Graham flour with milk to form a stiff 
batter ; add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake in gems, hot and well 
greased. To make strictly hygienic, mix the batter with water instead 
of milk ; omit the egg, and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar or molasses 
to aid in browning the gems. A very quick oven must be used in 
this last way. 

Butter the gem-pans carefully, first heating them on the stove. 
Put a little butter in the bottom of each one. It will melt and rise up 
on the sides as the batter is dropped in. Fill the pans two-thirds 
full, leaving room to rise. Bake about 20 minutes. 

Apple Gems. — Chop 4 sour apples very fine ; stir into them 1 
beaten egg, 1 quarter cup of molasses, and 1^ cups each of corn 
meal and sifted flour; dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in warm 
water and add it, using enough water to thin batter. Bake in buttered 
gem-pans in a moderate oven. 

Graham Gems (with Baking Powder). — One tablespoonful of 
butter, 1 beaten egg, 1 cup of milk, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2 tea- 
spoons of baking powder, in Graham flour enough for a good batter. 
Bake as above, A change in this may be made by taking 1 cup of 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 309 

sour milk instead of sweet, and half teaspoonful of soda. Take a level 
teaspoonful of soda, flatten it over with a knife, and cut it smoothly in 
half Bake as before. Tear gems open with a fork, and butter. 

Oatmeal Gems. — One cupful of oatmeal soaked over night in 1 
cupful of water. In the morning, add 1 cupful sour milk, 1 cupful 
flour, three-quarters tablespoonful soda, one-half tablespoonful salt, 1 
tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Mix, and bake in hot, 
well-buttered gem-pans. If too moist, add a little more flour. 1 cup 
of sweet milk, and 1 teaspoonful baking powder can be used instead 
of sour milk and soda. 

Wheat Gems. — One quart flour, 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 tea- 
spoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls (small) of butter. Sift the flour with 
the salt ; stir the milk in smoothly. Beat the yolks and whites well 
and separately ; stir first the yolks in the milk and flour, then the 
whites, then the melted cottolene. Half fill the gem-pans and bake 
in a deep pan or on a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 25 min- 
utes ; if baked in earthen cups, 45 minutes. Let them be thoroughly 
baked, or they will fall on being taken from the oven. 

Rye Gems. — One pint of warm milk with 1 teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in it, a pinch of salt, 2 eggs, well beaten. Rye flour enough 
to make a thin batter. Bake in gem-pans. 

Mufans. 

Muffin rings should be well greased, filled two-thirds full and 

baked upon a well-buttered griddle upon the stove, turning ring and 

all with a pancake shovel when one side is done to brown the other. 

Or the rings may be filled and set in a 

buttered pan and baked in the oven. 

Turning will not be necessary. Muffin 

rings 2}4 inches across and 1j4 inches 

deep are the most convenient size. Gem ^ ■««• ^ t-. 

^ , ^ ■ , , Iron MuflBn Pan. 

irons can also be used. Occasionally 

the same recipe can be dropped in spoonfuls on a griddle and baked, 
turning over with a pancake shovel. This is nice when haste is nec- 
essary. Tear open and butter. 

MuflBLns, Plain. — Three cups flour before sifting, 1 cup water, 
1}4 cups sweet milk, 3 level teaspoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Mix the sugar and shortening 




310 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 



to a cream, add the wetting, then sift the flour and baking powder 
into it. Beat well, heat gem irons hot, grease, fill nearly full, and 
bake in hot oven 20 minutes. An egg is used sometimes. Sour 
milk and soda may be substituted, three-quarters teaspoonful soda. 

Raised Muffins. — Four cups wheat flour, 1 ^/^ pints sweet milk, 1 
heaping tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs, one-half teacupful yeast. Sift the 
flour into a pan with a pinch of salt ; warm the milk and add cotto- 
lene, and stir into the flour. Beat the eggs light, add to the mixture. 
When thoroughly mixed add yeast. Set to rise about 3 hours before 
using, and when very light bake in muffin rings in a quick oven. 
These muffins must be served the instant they come from the oven. 
The muffin rings can be put on a griddle and baked also by turning 
the rings over with a pancake turner. If wanted for breakfast set 
over night. Tear the muffins open when done, put a bit of butter in 
each and keep warm until served. Never cut them. Graham muffins 
can be made the same way. 

Breakfast Muffins. — Three level teaspoonfuls butter, 2 eggs, 1 
pint milk, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder. Soften the butter, add to it the yolks of 2 eggs ; beat ; add 
milk ; mix ; add flour, salt and baking powder ; beat well ; stir in well- 
beaten whites, bake in quick oven 25 minutes in well-greased rings. 

Englisli Muffins. — Make as above, bake in muffin rings. 

Waffles. 

The first essential to success in waffles is a well-fitting waffle-iron. 
The waffle-iron should fit tightly over the stove hole. There should 
be no space in which to v-^^^^^^^^^^^^^mSA 



admit a draught of air 
around the waffle-iron to 
the fire ; yet there should 
be space enough for it to 
turn easily. 

Heat the irons thor- 
oughly before beginning 
to bake. They should 
be as hot as a griddle. 
Grease the waffie- irons 
with a piece of beef suet. 




Waffle-iron. 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Gil 

Be sure that the side of the iron on which the batter is to be poured 
is extra hot, and as soon as the first waffles are put in it and the iron 
is closed, turn it. This method insures their baking on both sides. 
Fill two-thirds full of the batter. As soon as they are baked, lay 
them on a plate, butter them, lay another over them, and serve them. 

Raised Waffles. — The best waffles are the old-fashioned kind 
raised with yeast. These call for a quart of milk, heated boiling hot, 
and then cooled till lukewarm ; a quart and a cupful of flour, 2 well- 
beaten eggs and half a cup of butter. Stir the butter into the hot 
milk, pour it gradually, when it is lukewarm, into the flour, beating 
out all the lumps. Add the beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a 
teaspoonful of sugar, and, finally, half a yeast cake, dissolved in half 
a cup of lukewarm water. Beat the batter thoroughly and let it rise 
over night. Beat it again in the morning, and let it rise 20 minutes 
more. Fill the irons two-thirds full, first greasing them well. Turn 
that they may be baked on each side. Butter each as done and lay 
one upon another. Serve with maple sugar, grated, white sugar or 
maple syrup. 

Quick Waffles. — Sift 1 pint of flour 3 times and add 1 teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until very light ; add to them 1 
cup of rich milk ; add this to the flour, with one tablespoonful of 
butter melted, and beat until light and smooth. Beat the whites of 
the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add to the butter and beat again. When 
ready to bake add 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, put the batter in 
a pitcher, have the waffle-iron very hot and thoroughly greased. 
Pour in the batter carefully, and, as soon as the edges are set, turn 
the iron and bake the second side. In making waffles as much de- 
pends upon the even and quick baking as upon the recipe used. 

Cormneal Waffles. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal into a mush. 
While hot put in a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and one-half 
teaspoonful salt. Let cool. Meanwhile beat separately the whites 
and yolks of 3 eggs. Add the eggs to the mush and stir in gradu- 
ally 1 quart of wheat flour. Add one-half pint buttermilk or sour 
cream in which has been dissolved one-half teaspoonful of baking 
soda. Thin this batter to the proper consistency with a little sweet 
or sour milk. Waffle-irons should be heated in advance that they 
may be hot when the batter is ready. Butter the irons thoroughly, 
fill two-thirds full ; bake briskly. 



312 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

Sally Lunn. 

Baised Sally Liuiin. — This is an excellent receipt for an old- 
fashioned teacake which is still very popular in New England. One 
quart of flour, 4 eggs, one-half cup of melted butter, 1 cup of warm 
milk, half an yeast cake, one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 
hot water. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, add the milk, butter, soda 
and a little salt. Stir the flour to a smooth batter and beat the yeast 
in well ; set to rise in a buttered dish, in which it must be baked and 
sent to table. Let it rise 6 hours. Bake steadily three-quarters of 
an hour. 

Sally Liuiin, Quick. — One-half cup of butter, half cup of sugar, 
1 cup of sweet milk, 2 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of cream of 
tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda ; to be eaten hot with butter. Bake in a 
cake tin 25 minutes, or until a straw thrust into them gently comes 
up free from dough. 

To Serve Sally Luiiii (Eng-lish Way). — Cut them thin, and toast 
both sides; butter well, then place together again. This is the way 
they are served in England. They are very nice. 

Various Corn Cakes and Johnny Cakes. 

Corn Cake. — Sour milk can be used in making various kinds of 
corn bread, and many cooks prefer it, in a majority of cases, to sweet 
milk. Here is a recipe in which it is excellent : Mix together 2 cups 
of cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. Stir 
into 2 cups of sour milk ; add a tablespoonful of melted butter, 2 
well-beaten eggs and a teaspoonful of soda ; beat thoroughly and 
bake in shallow pans in a hot oven. 

Custard Corn Cake. — One and two-thirds cups of cornmeal, one- 
third cup flour, butter size of an egg, 1 cup sour milk, 1 scant teaspoon 
of soda, 2 cups sweet milk, one-quarter cup of sugar, 2 eggs; mix the 
dry materials together, beat the eggs, add 1 cup of sweet milk and 1 
of sour; save 1 cup of sweet milk to pour over the whole when in the 
spider; put butter in spider, let it get hot, pour in the batter, let bake 
in moderate oven I hour. There is something in baking in the iron 
spider or frying-pan that seems to improve the cake, though it can 
be baked in an ordinary pan. 

Corn Pop-overs. — Boil 1 pint of milk, stir in 1 cup of cornmeal, 
butter size of walnut, pincli of salt ; when cold add 3 eggs, yolks and 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 313 

whites beaten separately. Bake 20 minutes in gem tins, which should 
be hot and well greased. 

Parker House Corn Cake. — One egg and small piece of butter ; 
add sugar or molasses to taste ; 1 coffee-cup of Indian meal and 1 coffee- 
cup of flour, 3 teaspoons of baking powder and 1 cup of milk. 

Sweetened Johnny Cake. — One pint buttermilk, half cupful mo- 
lasses, 2 cupfuls cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 cupful wheat 
flour, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 egg. Use less 
sweetening, if preferred. Bake in a quick oven. This rule will make 
two cakes. Use round tins. Cakes rise better in round tins. Some 




cooks use a small iron frying-pan. Serve hot with plenty of butter. This 
same batter will make good cornmeal muffins. It can also be dropped 
by spoonfuls on a hot greased griddle and turned with a pancake 
turner. Cakes baked in this way are light and delicious. Tear apart 
and butter. It also makes a good fritter batter to fry in hot lard. If 
sweet milk is used, add 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

Suet Johnny Cake. — One cup of suet chopped fine, half a cup of 
sugar, 1 }4 cups of sour milk, small teaspoon of baking soda, a pinch 
of salt, cornmeal enough to make a stiff batter ; bake in a quick oven. 

Golden Johnny Cake. — Cook in steamer and pulp fine 1 fine 
grain squash (Hubbard is the best), thicken 1 pint sweet milk with 
the squash pulp until the consistency of rich cream, sweeten lightly 
with white sugar. Take 3 parts Indian meal, 1 part best flour, the 



314 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

quantity being sufficient to make usual Johnny cake batter ; add 2 
teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half teacupful raisins, 1 teacupful 
currants, 1 pinch salt. A little good butter worked in when pulping 
the squash improves the cake. The suet can be omitted. 

Griddle Cakes. 

Siig-g-estions. — A very little shortening added to griddle cakes or 
pancakes, makes them more tender. A soapstone griddle for hot 
cakes requires no greasing. A substitute for fat will be found in rub- 
bing the griddle with the cut side of a white turnip; there will be no 
smoke or taste. If fat is used, put on very little. 

The first lot of griddle cakes is never quite as good as those that 
follow, because the iron is smooth and the heat even after use. Serve 
them smoking hot, straight from the stove, and of a delicate golden 
brown. Send with them maple syrup, grated maple sugar, or syrup 
made from melted sugar. A little water added to buttermilk, will 
prevent cakes being sticky. 

Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint of buckwheat flour, half teaspoon- 
ful salt, half cupful cornmeal, Graham or wheat flour ; 3 tablespoonfuls 
soft yeast, or one quarter yeast cake, dissolved in warm water ; 1 
tablespoonful molasses, 1 quart warm water to make a batter, or sweet 
milk and water mixed. Beat thoroughly. Set to rise in a large 
pitcher or, better still, a regular pancake pail with a spout for conve- 
nience in pouring out the batter to bake. Set the batter to rise early 
in the evening, in a moderately warm place, where the temperature 
will not vary. In the morning thin with a little sweet milk, in which 
half teaspoonful soda has been dissolved, or warm water can be used. 
Grease the griddle with a piece of beef suet, cut from the beefsteak ; 
always leave a cupful at the bottom to start with, instead of using 
yeast, after the first time. If the family is large, use twice the quan- 
tity of flour. The Indian meal should have boiling water poured 
over it before adding it to the batter. Some cooks add a well-beaten 
egg to the batter. 

Quick Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint buckwheat, sifted with 2 
heaping teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoon- 
ful molasses or brown sugar, to make them brown well. Enough 
water to make a batter. Bake at once. A little wheat flour and corn 
meal can be added. 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 315 

Graham Griddle Cakes, KaLsed. — Two cups of Graham flour, 
4 cupfuls wheat flour, 3 tablespoonfuls yeast or one quarter yeast cake, 
dissolved in warm water. Warm water or milk to make a thin batter. 
Set in a warm place over night. In the morning reserve 1 cupful of 
the batter for yeast next time. Into the remainder stir half teaspoon- 
ful of soda, dissolved in sweet milk or warm water. A well-beaten 
egg is a nice addition. These are considered more wholesome than 
buckwheat cakes, and closely resemble them in taste. Wheat griddle 
cakes can be made in the same way. 

Quick Graham Cakes. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in 1 spoon- 
ful of sour milk; put it in 1 pint of sour milk; mix together a cupful 
of sifted Graham and a cupful 
of wheat flour; stir in slowly, 
beating well ; add half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of 
sour cream, 1 egg, well beaten; 
add more flour if too thin, and 
more milk or water, if too thick. 
The same rule can be used with 
sweet milk, and the addition of 
2 level teaspoonfuls of cream 
tartar ; or baking powder may 
be used instead. If baking Soapstone Griddle. 

powder is used, omit the soda. These cakes are nice without 
the egg. 

Rye Griddle Cakes. — One cup sour milk, 2 tablespoonfuls mo- 
lasses, half teaspoonful soda, half cup wheat flour, 1 egg, well beaten, 
half teaspoonful salt. Enough rye flour to make a batter about the 
thickness of cake batter. Beat it thoroughly. Bake on a hot 
griddle. 

Flannel Cakes. — One pint sour milk or sour cream, 3 level tea- 
spoonfuls melted lard or butter, if milk is used ; 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful 
soda; flour for batter to bake on griddle. Leave the whites of eggs 
till just before baking, then beat very light and stir in lightly. 

Flapjacks. — Make a batter of 1 pint of sour milk, 1 even tea- 
spoonful of baking soda and a little salt, with wheat flour enough to 
thicken sufficiently to fry nicely. Fry in cakes the size of an ordinary 
breakfast plate. Butter each cake and sprinkle it with sugar, piling 




31 G BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

them one on top of another. A Httle grated nutmeg improves them. 
Have the batter as thin as it is possible to turn the cakes welL These 
are delicious, especially if sour cream is used. 

Wheat Pancakes, Sweet Milk. — One egg, 1 pint of sweet milk, 
1 teaspoonful soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cream-tarter, 1 teaspoonful butter, 
or lard will make more tender. Add flour to make a batter. The 
eggs can be omitted. Bake on a hot griddle. 

Griddle Rolls. — Prepare an ordinary wheat-cake batter ; have 
the gridiron hot; bake each cake the size of a lunch plate. Soon as 
each cake is done, quickly spread with butter and cover with maple 
sugar, roll into a neat roll, lay in covered dish, place over boiling 
water till all are done, then serve. 

Crushed Wlieat Griddle Cakes. — 1 cupful crushed wheat, lyi 
pints flour, 1 teaspoonful brown sugar, half teaspoonful salt, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, 1 Ggg, 1 pint of milk, sweet. Boil the 
crushed wheat in three-quarters pint of water 1 hour, then dilute with 
beaten &gg and milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and powder ; 
add to crushed wheat preparation when quite cold, mix into smooth 
batter. Bake on hot griddle ; brown delicately on both sides; serve 
with cream sauce, or serve with butter and syrup. 

Swedish Griddle Cakes. — One pint wheat flour, sifted ; 6 eggs, 
beaten separately 20 minutes and bake on a hot griddle. Make this 
when setting bread at night, and use half cupful of sponge for yeast. 

Oyster Pan Cakes, a Supper Dish. — Put half cupful of sour 
cream in a pint measure, fill it up with sour milk. Pour in a dish, 
thicken with wheat flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
spoonful of hot water, stir into the batter; add half teaspoonful salt, 
and 2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, the yolks first. Beat 
well, lastly add the whites. The batter should be of the same con- 
sistency as other pancakes ; have a few oysters ready, set them over 
the fire in their own liquor until the edges begin to curl ; remove 
them, drain, and sprinkle a dust of salt over them ; when the batter 
is on the griddle, put 2 oysters on the top of each cake before baking, 
turn and brown. 

Dessert Pancakes. 

Grandma's Griddle Cakes. — Make batter as for Oyster Pan- 
cakes. Have a smooth iron frying pan greased with butter on top of 
the range: when hot, pour in enough batter to cover the bottom, turn 



BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 317 

the pan around often, and with a pancake-turner loosen it. When 
brown, lift carefully and turn over. Have a very large plate hot, and 
when the cake is done, lift it to the plate, keep hot and bake another, 
spread each one with butter and maple sugar shaved fine; as fast as 
baked, pile on top of the others ; when five or six are baked, cut 
through the centre, then cut each half in four equal parts like apiece 
of pie. These are delicious for tea or for dessert. 

Pancakes a la Celestine. — Into a deep bowl sift 1 pint of flour 
and add a tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Have 
ready either a pint of cream or 1 of milk with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter in it. Break 3 eggs into the flour, add a spoonful or 2 
of the milk to make beating easier, and beat all till a smooth batter. 
Add the milk or cream at the last. The batter must be very thin, 
and they are to be baked as large as a breakfast plate. As soon as 
a delicate brown, spread with strawberry or any jam preferred, and 
roll, dredging a little powdered sugar over each and serving them 
very hot. 

Pancakes with Sauce. — Make pancakes after any desired rule. 
Bake them the size of a breakfast plate, and make the following 
sauce. Sauce : 1 quart of sweet milk, let boil up. Dissolve 1 table- 
spoonful in a little cold milk or water. Add pinch of salt, a lump of 
butter size of walnut, stir into the boiling milk. Sweeten to taste 
and flavor with lemon. Have this sauce ready, and as the cakes are 
baked place in a deep dish, turning sauce over each cake as they are 
taken from the griddle, placing one over the other. Cut down 
through them all in triangular pieces to serve. 

Scotch Scones. — There are two kinds of scones, one made of 
raised dough, the other of sour milk. To make the former, proceed 
as for making raised biscuits. When raised enough to prepare for 
baking, roll about an inch or less thick, dot thickly with currants or 
small raisins, pressing them into the dough. Bake in a round tin, 
score almost through the dough to make quarters, and wet these 
cuttings to keep them from coming together. Glaze the outside with 
sugar melted in water. The quickly made scones are made like sour- 
milk biscuit, making the dough rather sweet ; or they may be made 
of sweet milk, like baking-powder biscuits, but they must be round, 
filled with raisins, marked in quarters, and glazed, or they are not 
scones. They are very good either hot or cold. 



318 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 

Crackers. 

Corn Starcli Crackers. — One and a-half pint flour, half pint corn 
starch, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful 
baking powder, 1 tablespoonful lard, half pint milk (sweet). Sift 
together flour, corn starch, salt, sugar and powder ; rub in lard cold ; 
add milk, and mix into smooth, firm dough. Flour the board a little, 
turn out dough, give few quick, vigorous kneadings to complete 
smoothness. Set it under cloth ten minutes. Then roll it with 
a rolling-pin exceedingly thin, cut with round cutter, pricking each 
cracker with a fork, lay upon slightly greased baking tin, wash over 
with milk, and bake in a hot oven for 7 or 8 minutes. When cold, 
store them for use. 

Milk Crackers. — Rub one-half cupful butter with 3 cups of flour ; 
dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in one-quarter of a cupful of water and 
stir in the flour. Add 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- 
tar and sweet milk enough to make a stiff dough. Knead well, beat 
with the rolling-pin, pounding it out thin. Roll out, cut with a bis- 
cuit cutter, prick with a fork and bake quickly. 

Soda Crackers. — Five cups of unsifted flour, one-half cupful lard, 
one-half teaspoonful soda, one-half teaspoonful salt. Rub all thor- 
oughly in the flour. Add cold water sufficient to knead up stiff, beat 
with the rolling-pin 15 or 20 minutes. Roll thin as for pie crust, cut 
in squares, prick with a fork and bake in a moderate oven until they 
are just touched with a pale brown. 

Graham Crackers. — One quart best Graham, 1 tablespoonful 
sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful baking powder, 2 table- 
spoonfuls butter, one-half pint milk, good measure. Sift together 
Graham, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard cold, add milk, mix into 
smooth, consistent dough. Flour the board, turn out dough, knead 
well 5 minutes. Roll with rolling-pin to thickness of one-quarter of 
an inch; cut with knife into small, envelope-shape crackers. Bake in 
rather hot oven with care (as they burn readily) 10 minutes. Handle 
carefully while hot ; when cold store for use. 

Graham Cream Crackers. — Take 1 part of cream to 4 parts of 
milk, mix with flour, as soft as can be handled ; knead 20 minutes ; 
roll very thin ; cut square and bake quickly. Handle carefully while 
hot ; pack away in a stone jar when cool. 




IfflEs 



In thickening all kinds of soups and 
gravies, where flour is used, a much bet- 
ter way is to stir the dry flour into butter, 
or into the fat in the pan where meat is roasted, and stir until 
smooth ; then slowly add to the thickened butter or fat the 
soup or water for the gravy. In this way there will never be lumps 
to make it necessary to strain. When yolks of eggs are used for 
thickening a soup or sauce beat them well, then add a gill of cold 
liquid to every 2 yolks. Stir it into the hot liquid and stir it all the 
time the dish is on the fire, which should never be more than a 
minute. Gravy will generally be lumpy if the thickening is poured in 
while the pan is over the fire. Set the pan off until the thickening 
is well stirred in, then place on the fire again and cook thoroughly. 
A too rapid boiling ruins the flavor of any sauce ; it must boil once, 
but should never more than simmer afterwards. When sauce boils 
from the side of the pan it is done. 

Browning- for Gravies. — Put 1 pound of lump sugar into an iron 
pan with a small cupful of water, place on a hot stove and allow it to 
boil until it burns ; then add 1 pint of boiling water. Pour off the 
liquid, which, when cold, bottle for use. A few drops of this added 
to gravies, etc., will make them a beautiful rich brown. 

Browned Flour. — Sift a quart of flour into a dripping pan, set in 
a hot oven. Stir well; do not burn. When it is rather a dark 
brown, put in a glass jar. One-third niore of this is needed than of 
raw flour. 

Glace to Use. — Glace is merely very strong gravy boiled down 
until it is of the consistency of liquid jelly ; when it is of this thick- 
ness pour it from the saucepan at once or it will burn ; when it is re- 
quired for use stand the jar in which it is kept in a pan of boiling 
water, and melt it gently; to glace cutlets or meats, lay it on with 
a brush until it forms a varnish. 

Roux for Gravies, etc. — A 7'0itx\s simply flour and butter melted 
together, and is really the foundation of most gravies and sauces. 
Take a tablespoonful of butter, put in a hot saucepan ; when it melts 

319 



320 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 

and is quite hot, stir in gradually 1 tablespoonful of flour. When it 
is thoroughly blended, it is ready for the foundation of any sort of 
gravy. If onion flavor is liked, put some minced onion in the butter 
and flour, and let it simmer, stirring all the time, until it is a delicate 
reddish brown. 

I>rawu Bvitter Sauce. — Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of 
flour into a saucepan ; when melted and smooth, add one-half pint 
of boiling water ; stir constantly until boiling ; add a half-teaspoon- 
ful of salt, another tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits, a dash of 
pepper and the juice of half a lemon. If preferred, add milk instead 
of water to make the sauce, and omit the lemon. Soup stock is 
sometimes used instead of water or milk. If this is to be served 
with fish, cut up several hard-boiled eggs and add to it. Seasoned 
with curry powder, it is converted into a curry sauce. A covered 
saucepan lined with porcelain will be best to use. If the sauce is a 
little too thick, add more milk or water, hot, until it is the consistency 
of thick crearn. Season to taste with salt and pepper. This is excel- 
lent to serve up minced remnants of chicken or veal in ragouts. 

Browu Butter Sauce. — Let the flour and butter blend together 
over the fire as above, but stir slowly until the mixture is thoroughly 
browned, but not burned, adding a few slices of onion. Water can 
be used to thin, but the proper mixing is soup stock. This sauce 
can be seasoned with spices, salt, pepper and chopped pickles ; whole 
peppers, 4 or 5 allspice, a spray of parsley are suitable for seasoning, 
also mushrooms or capers. This makes a brown ragout, and is suit- 
able for beef and venison ragouts. 

Cream Savice. — Two tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls 
butter, 1 cupful of milk or cream. Rub butter and flour smooth over 
the fire in a saucepan and add the boiling milk slowly. Stir until 
smooth. Season with salt and white pepper. This is a nice sauce 
for nearly every kind of vegetable and also for fish. Chopped hard- 
boiled eggs are an addition to it, if for fish. 

Wliite Sauce. — One cupful white soup stock, 1 cupful of milk, a 
little minced onion, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 2 tablespoonfuls but- 
ter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful 
pepper, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cook butter and onion to- 
gether 10 minutes. Stir in the flour slowly and smoothly. Add the 
boiling stock, let boil up and add the milk or seasoning, and serve ; 



SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 321 

add the lemon juice. This sauce may be used for boiled or baked 
fish, meats or game. 

Oyster Sauce. — To make oyster sauce, put 1 pint of small oysters, 
with their liquor, into a saucepan, and heat them to boiling point. 
Skim out the oysters and add to the liquor ly^ cups of milk, and 
when it is boiling add one-third of a cup of butter, creamed with 3 
tablespoonfuls of flour. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, and 
let the sauce boil up once. Then add the oysters, and it is ready to 
serve. Extremely nice with boiled turkey and chicken. 

Celery Sauce. — Boil 5 or 6 heads of celery (removing the green 
portions and cutting up the remainder). When tender, drain. Mix 
1 tablespoonful of flour with a little cold milk and stir into a pint of 
cream or milk. Turn over the celery. Add 1 tablespoonful of but- 
ter, season with salt, and let boil up. Nice for boiled fowls. 

Nasturtium Sauce. — An excellent substitute for capers are nas- 
turtium seeds. Soak the seeds in a strong brine 36 hours, drain and 
throw into fresh water and let them remain over night. Drain again 
and place in bottles. Take a few pieces of mace, some whole pepper 
corns, and a little sugar, and put in the vinegar and let it come to a 
boil. Pour on the seeds and cork immediately. 

Caper Sauce. — To 1 pint of drawn butter add 1 tablespoonful of 
capers with the vinegar from the bottle. Serve with boiled mutton. 

Lobster Sauce. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 1 tablespoon- 
ful of flour in a bowl, set in boiling water and stir gradually until 
thick ; add half a teaspoonful of salt and a teacupful of boiling water. 
Take from the fire and stir in a teacupful of finely-chopped boiled 
lobster and serve. 

Egg Sauce. — Make a white sauce with one-half pint of milk, a 
lump of butter, salt and flour to thicken. Take 3 hard-boiled eggs, 
remove the shells and cut them up when the sauce is cooked. Stir 
them with the eggs and serve. This sauce is delicious with boiled 
fish. 

Brown Gravy. — Remove nearly all the fat from the gravy in the 
pan and add to it enough hot water to make the required quantity, 
add browned flour dry until it is thick enough, then strain it and add 
to each cupful of the gravy half a teaspoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce and 1 tablespoonful each of chopped pickles and capers. 

21 




_» -» — k — «k_fc fc ^ ^ Tfc 



Possibly the least expensive article put up 
by housekeepers for winter use is catsup, a 
variety of which can be made at very small cost. 
The tomato and cucumber are the best vegetables 
for the purpose, and can be used both ripe and green. 
They may be cooked and seasoned in a number of different 
ways, or made in their raw state. The best and most perfect 
vegetables and fruits only should be used for catsups ; the spices 
should be pure, and so commingled as to prevent any one prevailing 
to the exclusion of the others ; cloves, allspice, mace and cinnamon 
being generally used. Onions, garlic, horse-radish, black and white 
mustard seed, with celery seed, give an excellent flavor. The vinegar 
used should be pure and strong. A porcelain-lined kettle is best for 
cooking catsups. After being made, they should be bottled or put 
in glass jars, sealed and kept in a cool, dry place. Catsups from fruits, 
such as gooseberries, grapes, or currants, may be made from the 
canned fruit at any convenient time, but are better made from the fresh 
fruit. 

In making catsups, if whole spices tied up in cloth are used 
while boiling down, the article will be left a clear red. Tomato catsup 
is many per cent, improved if served hot. To heat with little 
trouble, fill a small bottle with enough of the catsup to serve at one 
time ; cork tightly and stand in a dish of cold water, allowing the water 
to heat gradually to the boiling point. 

Tomato Catsup. — Twelve ripe tomatoes, peeled ; 2 large onions, 
4 green peppers, chopped ; 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 of brown sugar, 2 
of ginger, 1 of cinnamon, 1 of mustard, a nutmeg grated, 4 cupfuls of 
vinegar. Boil all together until thoroughly cooked (about 3 hours), 
stirring frequently. Bottle while hot. Leave the onions whole, and 
remove before bottling. 

Cucumber Catsup. — Grate large, green cucumbers on a horse- 
radish grater; drain, salt and pepper to taste. Put through a sieve 
to remove the seeds. Add a quantity of grated horse-radish, and 
sufficient vinegar to make the consistency of tomato catsup. Bottle, 
and keep in a cool place. 
322 



CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. 



323 




Mushroom Catsup. — Take half a bushel of freshly gathered 
mushrooms ; wipe them carefully with a damp cloth ; put a layer in 
the bottom of a large stone jar ; sprinkle 
with salt; add more mushrooms and salt 
until all are used. Let stand over night ; 
mash them, and strain off the juice. To 
every pint add half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper and half a dozen whole cloves, hah 
a teaspoonful of allspice; put into a pre- 
serve kettle and boil slowly until thick. 
Strain and thin with 2 tablespoonfuls of vin- 
egar to every pint. Put in bottles and seal. 
Some add more spices, but this tends to 
destroy the delicate flavor of mushrooms. Horse-Radish Grater. 

Old Virg-inia Catsup. — Take 1 peck of green tomatoes, half 
a peck of white onions, 3 ounces of white mustard seed, 1 ounce each 
of allspice and cloves, half a pint of mixed mustard, an ounce each of 
black pepper and celery seed, and 1 pound of brown sugar. Chop 
the tomatoes and onions, sprinkle with salt, and let stand S hours; 
drain the water off; put in a preserve kettle with the other ingre- 
dients. Cover with vinegar, set on the fire to boil slowly for 1 hour. 

Southern Catsup. — Take half a gallon of green cucumbers ; 
after being peeled and chopped, sprinkle with salt, and let stand 6 
hours ; pour the water from them, and cover with hot vinegar. Pre- 
pare half a gallon of cabbage the same 
way. Chop 1 dozen small white onions, 
pour boiling water over them, and let 
stand half an hour. Chop 1 quart of 
green tomatoes, 1 pint of tender green 
beans, 1 dozen green peppers, and 1 
dozen small, young ears of corn ; scald 
and drain. Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of 
grated horse-radish, 1 teacupful of ground 
mustard, 2 cupfuls of white mustard ^^^ ^^ Spice Boxes, 

seed, 3 tablespoonfuls of turmeric, 1 each of ground mace, cinna- 
mon, cayenne, and celery seed, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and 1 
pound of sugar. Put in a jar with the prepared vegetables, and pour 
over boiling vinegar to cover. 




324 CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. 

AValnut Catsup. — Pound to a mass 120 green walnuts, gathered 
when a pin can pierce them. Put to the mass three-quarters of a 
pound of salt and one quart of good vinegar, stir every day for a 
fortnight, then strain and squeeze the liquor from thcni through a cloth 
and set aside ; put to the husks one-half a pint of vinegar and let 
stand all night ; strain and squeeze them as before. Put the liquor 
with that which was put aside, add to it 1 ^ ounces of whole peppers, 
40 cloves, one-half ounce of nutmeg (grated) and one-half an ounce 
of ginger. Boil all for one-half an hour, closely covered, then strain 
and when cold bottle and cork securely. White walnuts are very nice 
for catsup. 

Celery Catsup. — Bruise 1 ounce of celery seed, 1 teaspoonful 
white pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, one-half dozen oysters in a mortar. 
Rub through a sieve, add 1 quart of best white vinegar and bottle 
for use. 

Oyster Sauce. — Take 1 quart of oysters, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 
1 teaspoonful each of cayenne pepper and mace, 1 teacupful of cider 
vinegar, add 1 teacupful of sherry. Chop the oysters and boil in 
their own liquor with the teacupful of vinegar, skimming as the scum 
rises. Boil 3 minutes, strain, return the liquor to the fire, add the 
wine, pepper, salt and mace. Boil 15 minutes, and when cold, bottle 
for use, sealing the corks. The sherry can be omitted. 

Cliutuey Sauce. — Cut 2 quarts of green tomatoes in slices, take 
out the seeds, sprinkle with 3 tablespoonfuls of salt, and let them 
stand over night. Drain the tomatoes through a colander, chop, put 
in a porcelain-lined kettle, add 2 quarts of sour apples that have been 
pared, quartered and chopped fine, 2 chopped green peppers, 1 pound 
of seeded and chopped raisins, 2 small onions minced, 2 pints of 
strong cider vinegar, and simmer for 2 hours. Then add 1 pound of 
brown sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of mustard seed, two each of ginger 
and salt, and one teaspoonful of cayenne, and cook slowly for another 
hour. Pour into pint glass fruit jars ; seal while hot, and when cold 
wrap each jar in paper and keep in a cool, dark place. 

Chilli Sauce. — Take 24 large ripe tomatoes, 4 white onions, 4 
green peppers, 4 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 of cinnamon, half a table- 
spoonful of ground cloves and allspice mixed, a teacupful of sugar 
with a pint and a half of vinegar ; peel the tomatoes and onions ; 
chop fine ; add the vinegar, spices, salt and sugar ; put into a pre- 



CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. 325 

serve kettle ; set over the fire and let boil slowly for o hours. Bottle 
and seal. This is excellent, and will be found much less trouble than 
the strained tomato catsup. 

Uuspiced Chilli Saiioe. — Twelve good-sized ripe tomatoes, 2 red 
(or green) peppers, 2 large onions, 2 cups of cider vinegar, half a cup 
of brown sugar, 1 even tablespoonful of salt. Chop the onions and 
peppers together quite fine, scald and peel the tomatoes, cut them up, 
put all together and boil for 2 or 3 hours. Cover close and it will 
keep for months. 

Spiced Cherries. — Seven pounds of cherries, 4 pounds of sugar, 
1 pint of vinegar, one-half ounce of ginger-root, 1 teaspoonful ot 
ground cloves, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
one-half teaspoonful of ground mace. Put the vinegar and sugar on 
to boil, mix the spices and divide them into 4 parts. Put each part 
into a small square of muslin, tie tightly, and then throw them into 
the sugar and vinegar. When this mixture is hot add the cherries ; 
bring all to boiling point, take from the fire and turn carefully into a 
stone jar. Stand in a cool place over night. Next day drain all the 
liquor from the cherries into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand it over a 
moderate fire, and when boiling hot pour it back in the jar over the 
cherries. Next day drain and heat again as before, and do this for 9 
consecutive days; the last time boiling the liquor down until there is 
just enough to cover the fruit. Add the fruit to it, bring the whole 
to a boil, and put in jars or tumblers for keeping. A delicious relish. 

Spiced Cranberries. — Five pounds of cranberries, 3^ pounds of 
brown sugar, scant pint of vinegar, 2 tablespoons of cinnamon and 
allspice, 1 tablespoon of cloves. Cook slowly 2 hours. Nice with meats. 

Spiced Blackberries. — Spiced blackberries are made very much 
like spiced currants. To 7 pounds of fruit allow half a pint of vine- 
gar and half a pint of blackberry juice, S}4 pounds of granulated 
sugar, an ounce of cloves and an ounce of powdered allspice. Let 
this preparation cook steadily for about an hour and a half, until it is 
thoroughly reduced. 

Spiced Gooseberries. — Use 7 pounds of berries to 1 pint of vine- 
gar and 3^ pounds of sugar, 2 ounces of stick cinnamon and 1 ounce 
of whole cloves. Place in a preserving kettle over a slow fire and 
cook from an hour to an hour and a half. 




NdVigh 




For summer luncheons the sand- 
wich is the best stand-by. The ideal 
sandwich — and the ideal is as easily made 
as any, if the conviction once obtains — is 
very thin, its entire thickness when finished 
not over half an inch ; it is spread evenly with 
butter, and its flavoring or filling is delicate 
and dainty, a suggestion rather than a substantial 
reality. Potted ham and meats of all kinds, jam, 
grated sweet chocolate, cottage cheese, jellies, marmalades — any of 
these make good fillings, and many more suggest themselves for the 
trying. Any cold meat left over can do sandwich duty by freeing 
from fat and gristle and chopping fine. Moisten with a very little 
vinegar. 

There are certain absolutely essential points in the composition of 
a good sandwich, and they are soon mastered. All meats to be used 
in them should be well cooked, tender, as juicy as possible, and cut 
in very small, very thin slices, using as many of these slices as may 
be necessary to cover the bread. The bread itself should be home- 
made, if possible, not less than two days old, the slices cut thin and 
even, and the crust trimmed off. It is no waste, as some house- 
keepers feel, since this crust, browned lightly in a hot oven and rolled 
while hot, makes crumbs which cannot be excelled for dressings, 
puddings, and all uses to which crumbs may be put. 

All sandwiches should be wrapped in a wet towel to keep them 
moist. They can be cut into all sorts of fancy shapes, such as hearts, 
squares, oblongs, ovals, triangles, diamonds and stars. Lettuce and 
cress sandwiches should not be made until a short time before using, 
as their crispness is gone if they stand long. Other varieties can be 
made in the forenoon, or immediately after dinner, if desired for sup- 
per, or in the evening. 

In packing the picnic hamper remember that there should be a 
large supply of sandwiches, which are always the piece de resistance 
of an outdoor lunch. One of the nicest ways of serving a sandwich 
326 



SANDWICHES. 327 

is to roll it. When made up in this way less of the surface of the 
bread is exposed and there is less danger of the sandwich drying on 
the outside. Spread the slices of meat paste or forcemeat on a slice 
of buttered bread. Only tender, home-made bread, fully 24 hours 
old, will roll properly. Begin very carefully and turn the bread 
gently, then roll rather firmly. Pin them up one by one in a piece of 
napkin, and set them aside for several hours under a slight weight, 
that they may retain their shape. All sandwiches should be carefully 
covered up in napkins as soon as they are made and should be served 
as soon as possible to prevent their becoming dry on the outside. 
But if carefully piled and covered up they will keep moist for several 
hours. Sandwiches to be taken to picnics may be wrapped in but- 
tered or waxed paper. 

Sandwich Bread. — Box bread, as it is called in some bakeries, 
and sandwich bread, as it is known in others, is a loaf with perfectly 
square corners. It is square in cross section and about twice as long 
as it is thick. The crust can be cut from it with very little waste and 
the slices can be cut into the desired triangular shape for sandwiches 
without any waste wdiatever. 

Sandwich Dressing-. — This does much toward making a sand- 
wich delicious : Mix two tablespoonfuls of mustard with enough hot 
water to make smooth ; 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, very little red 
or white pepper, salt and yolk of 1 egg. Set aside to cool. Warm 
before spreading upon the sandwich. 

Deviled Hani Sandwich. — The simplest form of sandwich is that 
of sliced meat, seasoned as desired. But now that meat-choppers 
enable one to reduce a whole ham or tongue almost to a paste, to be 
seasoned as taste dictates, a better order has established itself. A 
very delicious form, where there is a small amount of ham only, is as 
follows : From half to three-quarters of a pound of mixed lean and 
fat ham ; 1 minced pickle, a tablespoonful of French mustard, a tea- 
spoonful of sugar. Melt in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
when it boils up add the ham, a pinch of cayenne and 1 raw egg, and 
stir together without allowing it to cook. Do not use till cool, and 
butter the bread with only a glaze of butter, as that in the ham will 
be sufficient. Tongue and corned beef can be treated in the same 
manner, and chicken also or game, but for the latter the pickle and 
half the mustard are to be omitted. 



328 SANDWICHES. 

Ham and Eg-g- Sandwich. — Mix the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs 
to a smooth paste with 1 teaspoonful of made mustard ; to this add 1 
cupful of finely-chopped ham and the whites of the eggs chopped as 
fine as possible. Mix well and spread between thin slices of buttered 
bread. If the crust of the bread is hard or tough, it should be cut 
off before the bread is spread. 

Chicken Sandwich. — Chop cold chicken very fine ; heat some 
rich cream and mix with it ; season with a little salt and spread be- 
tween sandwiches. Or, chop the chicken, first removing all the skin. 
To each cupful of the chopped chicken add a little salt and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter (measured after melting.) Mix ; cut thin 
slices of bread which is 1 day old ; spread first with butter, thinly, 
then with the chicken ; put 2 slices together and cut in fancy shapes. 

Eg-g- and Fish Sandwiches. — To make an egg and fish sandwich 
pound the yolks of 5 hard-boiled eggs and the white of 1 in a mortar. 
Add about as much anchovy as you have eggs, and mix in the 
mortar. Add to this mixture a teaspoonful of butter to every yolk 
of egg. When it is a smooth mass spread it on brown bread cut to 
the regular thickness of an eighth of an inch. The Norwegian an- 
chovies that come in a keg are considered better than those that 
come in a bottle, already boned. Take the little fishes out of the keg, 
a few at a time, soak them in cold water for 2 hours or longer, open 
them and remove the backbone. After cleaning them well lay them 
in a dish covered with sweet oil until needed. 

Egg-wiches. — Cut the top nearly off of rolls that are a little stale, 
remove all the crumbs and soft part possible, and fill with a stuffing 
of chicken (veal, tongue, or any meat desired), finely chopped, with 
celery salt, a little parsley, pepper, plenty of butter, or olive oil, and 
to each roll allow the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, which should be 
thoroughly mashed with the other ingredients. Fill the rolls, shut 
the top, and place in the oven to get hot. 

Tongue Sandwich. — Chop cold boiled tongue, and mix with any 
nice salad dressing to spread between sandwiches. 

Breakfast Sandwich. — Use stale bread. Spread each slice with 
chopped meat ; cover with another slice and press together. Cut 
each sandwich in halves and place them on a plate. Have ready a 
pint of milk, salted and mixed with 1 beaten egg. Pour this over 
the sandwiches and let stand a (ew moments. Put a heaping tea- 



SANDWICHES. 329 

spoonful of butter into a frying pan and when it begins to brown 
place the sandwiches carefully upon it. When nicely browned on 
one side add a little more butter, turn, and brown the other side. 

Gaiue Sand^vich. — Make a rich, smooth gravy with the game 
stock, or plain stock. Spread the bread with this, and lay on it thin 
slices of partridge, pheasant, etc., as you choose. Press the slices to- 
gether, trim, and cut in any neat shape. Sometimes thin circles of 
nicely fried bread are used instead of cold bread. 

Hot Roast Beef Sandwich. — Cut bread moderately thin and 
butter lightly. Lay a generous slice of hot roast beef between two 
slices of bread, and cover liberally with a rich, hot, brown beef gravy. 

Cream of Oyster Sandwich. — Chop 1 quart of raw oysters very 
fine, season with pepper, salt and a little nutmeg ; add i/^ cup melted 
butter, the same of rich cream, whites of 3 eggs beaten, and 8 powdered 
crackers. Heat in a double boiler until a smooth paste ; set away 
until very cold ; then cut and lay between buttered slices of bread. 

Hot Oyster Sandwich. — Split small, fresh crackers, butter the 
inside ; lay on each bottom half of 1 large or 2 small oysters ; season 
with pepper and salt, and small pieces of butter ; cover with upper 
half; place in dripping pan and bake from 15 to 20 minutes. The 
cracker must be thoroughly heated through, but not burned in the 
least. Serve on hot platter. Nice to serve for supper with pickles. 

Oyster Sandwich. — It is very dainty and appetizing, and may be 
served either hot or cold. Take thin slices of sweet, home-made rye 
bread, butter them, lay on hot, fried oysters, season, using a dash of 
made mustard if liked, and lay on the second slice of bread. If they 
are to be served cold, wrap each sandwich in buttered paper. 

Sardine Sandwich. — Sardine sandwiches may be made by simply 
splitting the fish, taking out the bone, and squeezing a little lemon 
juice over them. Add a leaf of lettuce to each sandwich, allowing 
three halves of sardine to a slice, and cutting them in two. Cut the 
bread thin and butter lightly. Press the slices together. 

Hot Sardine Sandwich. — An excellent relish for the Sunday 
night tea table. Take 4 boneless sardines, rub them smooth with an 
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and a dust of 
cayenne pepper; heat the mixture in a chafing dish and spread on 
hot buttered toast A little grated cheese may be sprinkled over top 
before serving. Do not put two pieces of bread together; leave open. 




Toast should be made of stale 
bread, or, at least, of bread that has been 
baked a day. Baker's bread is usually better 
^iijllimiii,Ai5^ ~ for toast than the domestic article. Cut smoothly 
€j^ in slices, not more than half an inch thick. If the 

^j crust is baked very hard, trim the edges. Brown very evenly. 
If it happens to burn, scrape off very carefully. Cold biscuit 
cut in halves, under crust cut off, then browned evenly on both sides, 
makes good toast. Either brown or white bread makes good toast, but 
Graham bread is to be preferred. Toasted bread done in the ordinary 
fashion, that is, by putting a slice of bread on a fork, holding it over 
the fire until brown on one side, then turning to brown the other side, 
will be found, upon breaking open a slice, to have the surfaces 
browned, but the inside is converted into the same condition as that 
of new bread. Toast to be most easily digested should never be 
buttered. It covers up the starch and saturates the gluten. This is 
to be remembered in serving it to invalids. A good way to toast 
bread, and also to avoid getting heated and scorched one's self, is to 
take a stale loaf of bread, cut into very thin slices, almost like wafers, 
place on large baking sheets and dry until quite crisp in a cool oven. 
Serve piled on a plate at dinner or tea. Scraps of loaves and rolls 
may be used in this way, and be greatly appreciated if crisp and cut very 
thin. Thin slices of toast are now at fashionable dinners taking the 
place of the usual dinner roll. This has created a place for individual 
silver racks each to hold two slices. Porcelain racks are also some- 
times used. 

Cream Toast. — Cut slices from a loaf of stale bread, toast brown ; 
put a pint of cream in a quart cup and set on the fire to heat, add a 
teaspoonful of butter and a pinch of salt, pour over the toast, and 
serve hot. 

Cream Toast with Poaclied Eg'g's. — Prepare a toast as above, 
lay each slice neatly in a saucer before adding the cream dressing, 
and then finish with a delicately poached egg laid on each slice. 
330 



TOASTS. 



331 




Baked Milk Toast. — Pare the crust from slices of stale bread 
and toast quickly; dip in boiling salted water and lay in a deep dish 
that will bear 
the fire without 
injury. When 
all are in pour 
upon the toast 
1 quart of hot 
milk (or half 
cream) in which 
has been dis- 
solved a heap- 
ing tablespoon- 
ful of butter 
andateaspoon- 
ful of salt. Set 
the dish in a 

dripping pan of hot water, and this in the oven. Bake covered for 
half an hour, then let the top layer brown very slightly. Should the 
milk be all absorbed before time is up, add a little more, boiling hot. 
Thus prepared it has a rich, creamy flavor " dip toast" never acquires. 

Scotch Toast. — Butter slices of not too stale bread, place in a hot 
oven for 5 minutes ; serve. 

Dutch Toast. — Dutch toast is a simple dish for using up scraps 
of bread. Crumble the bread 
and place in a frying pan with 
a slice of butter. Add salt, 
pepper and sage if liked. It 
should be seasoned quite well. 
Add a small quantity of boil- Bread Toaster, 

ing water, cover closely, so the steam will soften the bread, stir sev-f 
eral times and serve hot. 

French Toast. — To 1 pint of milk add 2 well-beaten eggs and a 
pinch of salt. Dip into this mixture 12 slices of bread. Have ready 
a tablespoonful of boiling hot lard or beef suet in a skillet. Fry the 
bread on both sides a delicate brown. This makes a nice breakfast 
dish. Some cooks roll in sugar before serving. Prepared in this 
fashion, it is nice for breakfast or luncheon. 




3.02 TOASTS. 

Parisian Toast. — Beat well 2 eggs, add a little salt and 1 cup of 
milk, pour over G slices of bread and brown quickly on hot buttered 
griddle ; place on platter and cover with chopped bits of meat or cold 
fish made very hot in a little butter and water. 

Siiowfiake Toast. — Take 1 quart of milk, one-half cup cream and 
a little salt. Mix a tablespoonful of flour with a little of the milk, 
and add when the milk is boiling hot. Let it cook until the flour 
has no raw taste. Have ready the whites of 2 eggs thoroughly 
beaten, and after the milk and cream are well cooked, stir in the 
whites of the eggs lightly and allow it to remain over the fire long 
enough for the whites to coagulate — about half a minute is long 
enough. This quantity is sufficient for about 12 slices of bread well 
toasted. Dip the slices in hot milk, take out quickly and pack to- 
gether for about 3 minutes, then pour this snowflake mixture over 
them. 

Chicken or Turkey Toast. — Bone and skin the remains of cold 
fowls, roasted or boiled. Cover and keep in a cool place. Boil the 
bones and skin with three-quarters of a pint of water until reduced 
half. Strain this gravy and let cool. Skim off the fat and put in a 
saucepan with one-half cupful cream and 2 tablespoonfuls butter 
rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoonful flour. Stir this until it boils. 
Then add the finely-minced fowl, together with 3 hard-boiled eggs, 
chopped, and pepper and salt to season. Shake over the fire until 
thoroughly hot. Dish over hot toast. Some prefer to dip the slices 
of toast in hot, salted water before adding the meat. 

Mock Cream Toast. — Melt 2 ounces of butter and rub in 1 
large teaspoonful of flour. Pour ly^ pints of hot milk over the 
butter and flour. Return to the stove. Beat 2 eggs light and turn 
the hot milk over the eggs and beat a few minutes ; strain the cream 
through a fine hair sieve. Dip the toast and send hot to the table in 
a gravy-bowl, the cream not taken up by the toast. 

Veal Toast. — Veal toast may be made in precisely the same man- 
ner as chicken and turkey toast. 



CHAFING DISH COOKERY 



i 





, Five years ago the average individual 

-^ hardly knew what a chafing dish was, but 
now in many a small apartment are known full 
\\ "^J ^'"^W^r '^^ ^^^^ ^^ joy^ ^^ savory suppers served informally 
3 \|^3r/ ■'. ^ and gayly from the bright and cheerful nickel 
fj '////,' ^^^^0^^" chafer that may be bought anywhere at small ex- 
Y''' pense, and which has become in more ways than 

one a precious boon to the light and economical housekeeper. 

Bachelors, girls living in small rooms, and all who wish to do 
light housekeeping should have one chafing dish and an alcohol lamp 
with a small tea-kettle. Fill the lamp with alcohol and then light it, 
and then put the tea-kettle on first with water. Then fill the lamp 
for the chafing dish, light it, and fill the lower pan half full with 
water. Place the top pan on the lower one and the chafing dish is 
ready for use. 

The chafing dish is used at informal meals, and, so far as is pos- 
sible, the actual cooking should be done after guests are seated at the 
table, the short delay in the preparation of the dish being utilized for 
conversation. All ingredients should be at one side of the dish on a 
small tray in readiness for immediate use — condiments, flour, etc., 
measured, meat diced and eggs beaten. Often two or more ingredi- 
ents can be placed in the same receptacle, and if the bowls and dishes 
used are proportioned to the amount of materials they will not be 
deemed out of place. They should, of course, be removed as soon 
as emptied. 

Butter may be made into balls, each ball representing an ounce. 
Arrange these in a pretty dish on the right. If cream is to be used, 
measure and put it in a little pitcher on the left. Bottles containing 
sauces and catsups should also be placed on the left, as well as large 
materials, such as lobster, etc. This saves much time and confusion. 
See that the lamp is filled and that matches are at hand before being 
seated. When a recipe calls for butter and flour rub them together 
and put them in the dish before serving-time. If butter is to be 
browned put it in the dish first, then have the flour in a pretty bowl, 

333 



334 



CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 



to be added later. Use for stirring a long-handled, polished wooden 
spoon. This will enable you to work easily and quietly. If you use 
a light metal dish it becomes at times needful to use the hot water 
pan ; but with a heavy dish this is not required. 

Though a desirable possession at all times, the chafing dish is 
particularly convenient during the " dog days," when bending over 
the kitchen range becomes insufferable ; and to the summer hostess, 
especially, this admirable substitute is invaluable. 

The number of viands that may be prepared on the chafing dish 

are numerous 
and inviting — 
and their num- 
ber is constantly 
increasing. Del- 
icate and dainty 
concoct ions 
have so far been 
the chief prod- 
ucts of the chaf- 
ing dish, but an 
attempt is being 
made to cook 
Agate Chafing Dish Outfit. ^^^^ substantial 

articles, so that they may be a boon also to the tired housewife whose 
family requires heartier foods. 

Welsh Rarebit. — A good dinner for the beginner to commence 
on is Welsh rarebit, which can be made exactly as well at home as in 
the chop-houses of reputation. It is better that the toast should be 
made below stairs, and timed so that when the rarebit is completed 
the toast will arrive, perfectly browned, hot and well buttered. But 
when making rarebit at night after fires are fixed, it becomes neces- 
sary to make toast also over the chafing dish. This should be done 
first : Have ready a hot platter and dish of butter. Place over the 
spirit light first a round asbestos mat, trim the bread and place it on 
the mat ; toast carefully, butter, and place it on the heated platter. 
Take cheese of domestic make and cut in tiny pieces. If the cheese 
is dry, a lump of butter, the size of a hickory nut, should be put in 
first. Put in enough cheese to nearly fill the dish, with a sprinkling 




CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 335 

of salt and pepper, and as soon as it begins to melt stir and mix it up 
constantly with two silver spoons. 

When it assumes the conditions of a paste, begin to pour in Bass 
ale, a tablespoonful at a time, until about a half bottle is used. Have 
a well'-beaten egg ready, and when the cheese is like cream pour in 
the egg ; stir it through evenly and put out the alcohol lamp before 
the egg can cook into lumps. Have fresh-made toast ready on hot 
plates and pour 2 or 3 spoonfuls of the melted cheese over each slice. 
A pleasant addition, and a digester, as well, is a sprinkling of paprika, 
or Hungarian pepper, over each rarebit. 

The secret of success in most chafing dish concoctions is the con- 
stant stirring with two spoons, which prevents the mixture from grow- 
ing lumpy. Some cooks use a tablespoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce, or tomato catsup. A saltspoon of salt is also needed. 

Escalloped Oysters. — Take a pint of large oysters, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, a gill of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of cracker dust and 
some pepper and salt. Put the cream and butter into the chafing 
dish. Drain the oysters and lay in layers sprinkled well with cracker 
dust, then another layer of oysters with added cracker, and a little 
butter, salt and pepper. Cook 10 minutes covered. 

Pan Oysters. — Drain 1 quart of select oysters in a colander for 
several hours in a cool place. Put 2 tablespoons of butter in the 
chafing dish, season well with salt and pepper. As soon as the but- 
ter begins to cream put in the oysters ; stir them thoroughly, cover 
them and let them steam until well puffed up. Serve on toast. 

Pan Toast iu Cliafiug Dish. — Melt a tablespoonful of butter, and, 
as it creams, add a dozen large oysters, a half pint oyster liquor, salt 
and pepper. Cover and cook about 10 minutes. Put six of the oys- 
ters on a thin slice of toast on a hot plate, with sufficient liquid to 
moisten the toast, and serve. 

Creamed Oysters with Celery. — One tablespoon butter, 1 table- 
spoon flour, 1 cup cream, 1 pint large oysters, 1 small bunch celery 
cut fine. Melt, but do not brown the butter. Add flour and stir 
until smooth. Pour in cream and stir until smooth ; add salt and 
pepper, and, if too thick, a little of the oyster liquor. Put in the 
oysters and let them cook until the edges are thoroughly curled. 
About 2 minutes before they are done add the celery. Serve on 
toast. 



336 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 

Creme Oysters. — For a little supper dish put in the chafing dish 
2 tablcspoonfuls of butter and one-half pint of cream, a saltspoon- 
ful of salt, a little pepper, a sprinkling of nutmeg and 2 bay leaves. 
When heated, grate up half a cup of cracker crumbs and add them, 
with 25 oysters, blanched and drained. Cook 5 minutes and serve hot. 

Creamed Oysters. — Put 1 tablespoon of butter in upper dish 
(setting in water pan), add salt and pepper and 1 pint washed and 
drained oysters. Cook a few minutes till edges curl, then add the 
well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs mixed with one-half cup of cream. 
Watch, and remove as soon as creamy, which will be in 2 or 3 min- 
utes. Serve on crisp toast. Clams, with head and tough parts re- 
moved, the hard parts chopped and the black spots pinched out, are 
very nice served in this way. 

Oyster Toast. — The oyster toast for lunch can be made with the 
chafing dish. The oysters may be minced and mixed with the yolks 
of 2 eggs and a gill of cream to every dozen oysters, and heated with 
a tablespoonful of butter, or they may be left whole and heated in a 
sauce made from the cream and eggs. The toast can be made in the 
kitchen, and the mush left from breakfast should be sliced and fried 
on a gas or oil stove to prevent the irons from becoming soiled. 

Creamed Lobster. — Put 1 small tablespoonful butter in chafing 
dish ; when it melts and bubbles add heaping teaspoon of flour ; stir 
until melted ; add one-half pint of cream (or milk), let it come to a 
boil, and add 1 can of lobster and 2 eggs well beaten ; season to taste 
and boil at least 1 minute. Serve immediately. 

Lobster an Natiirel. — Take the yolks of 2 eggs, and, after beat- 
ing them well, add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and beat again until 
very smooth. Boil a lobster, and when cold stir the meat, finely 
chopped, into the above mixture. Let it simmer very slowly, but it 
must not boil. Serve on a well-heated dish. 

Cream of Clams. — Begin with the usual 2 tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour when the butter is melted. 
When blended well stir in the chopped meat of 25 clams and half a 
pint of clam juice. Pepper and salt to taste. Cover and let simmer for 
10 minutes. Then add a gill of milk, if cream is not forthcoming, 
and serve as soon as the general bubble has come. 

Clams a la Maryland. — To cook clams a la Maryland remove 
the bodies from 20 soft clams. Place the bodies, with 1 tablespoon- 



CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 337 

ful of butter, in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of fine cut truffles, 2 
tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
and cook 8 minutes. Be careful not to stir them. Mix one-half a 
cupful of cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it to the clams, let it 
remain a kw minutes to heat, but not boil, and then serve. 

Hashed Little-neck Clams. — Melt a pat of butter into the chafing 
dish, then put in 3 dozen little-neck clams, hashed fine, and their 
juice. Add a teaspoonful of chopped shives and 2 of parsley. Cook 
over open fire until it boils twice, cover on, thicken with bread crumbs, 
add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry. Season and serve on buttered toast. 

Soft Shell Crabs. — Put 4 pats of butter into the chafing dish and 
let it become very hot ; then put in 4 medium-sized soft-shell crabs, 
first prepared by removing the lungs and washing thoroughly ; add 2 
teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. Cook about 10 minutes, being careful 
not to burn. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve on toast or plain, 

Spanish Cream Pudding-. — Take one-third of a box of gelatine, 
1 quart of milk, 4 eggs, ij4 cups of sugar, a teaspoonful of vanilla, 
and a pinch of salt. Soak the gelatine 1 hour in milk. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add to the milk and pour 
into the chafing dish. Cook 20 minutes, take off and add the whites 
of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; after cooling a little, add the vanilla 
and salt, and beat 5 minutes. Pour into a mould and set on the ice. 

Chocolate Cream. — A very rich and delicious preparation of 
chocolate to serve occasionally is a cream made in the chafing dish. 
To make it take 2 squares of a good brand of chocolate, break them 
up, add 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling water and 4 tablespoonfuls of 
granulated sugar, cover and cook 10 minutes. Then add three- 
fourths of a cupful of cream, put the hot-water pan under the dish, 
and stir in the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. In adding the yolks of 
eggs to sauces, creams, etc., it is best either to remove the mixture 
from the fire or to add a few tablespoonfuls of the hot liquid to the 
eggs (stirrmg as you do so) before adding it to the bulk of the mix- 
ture. You will thus prevent curdling. Mix the yolks well with the 
rest of the ingredients, and cook until they thicken the liquid 
slightly. Then add the frothed whites, a salt-spoonful of salt, and, 
just before serving, a teaspoonful of vanilla. Serve hot, in small cups, 
either with or without whipped cream. With it serve crisp, unsweet- 
ened crackers, bread sticks, or finger-rolls. 




An Indian or flour dumpling that is to 
be tied in a cloth requires plenty of room for 
the contents to swell. Never let the water 
stop boiling while the dumplings are in the kettle. 
Be sure they are covered with water completely. 
Dip the bag, or cloth, in cold water for an instant and the dumpling 
will come out easily. Steaming is easier, and in every way preferable 
to boiling a pudding or dumpling. Some dumplings are to be baked 
also. Biscuit crusts, pastry or suet crusts may be made. 

Suet Dumpling-s. — One pint of fine bread crumbs, one-half cup- 
ful of beef suet chopped fine, 2 eggs, well beaten, ly^ teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, 1 teaspoonful (level) of salt, one-half cupful of flour. 
Wet it with enough sweet milk to make a stiff" paste. Make into 
balls with floured hands. Tie up in separate cloths that have been 
wrung out of hot water and floured inside. Leave room to swell. 
Serve hot, with hot pudding sauce, or with hard sauce or butter and 
syrup. 

Plain Dumpling-s. — Take a pan of nice light biscuit just ready 
for the oven, and when the potatoes are ready to boil for dinner put 
the biscuit in the steamer over the kettle. Cook one-half hour or 
until the potatoes are done. Serve hot with sweetened cream sea- 
soned with nutmeg. Crushed strawberries or any kind of stewed 
fruit is nice to serve with them. Tear open with a fork. 

Baked Apple Diiinpliiigs, — Peel, core and quarter any nice kind 
of apple ; make a light, flaky pastry and roll thin. Cut it in sections 
as large as a saucer. Lay 2 or 3 quarters of the mellow apple on the 
pastry and sprinkle it with sugar. Catch up all the corners of the 
pastry and press firmly together over the apple. Lay them in a bowl 
or pan, with the smooth side up, and put half a teaspoonful of butter 
and a teaspoonful of sugar with a little nutmeg on top of each. Pour 
boiling water an inch deep around them and bake in the stove till the 
dumplings are nicely browned. Serve hot with sweetened cream for 
338' 



DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 339 

sauce, or, in lieu of cream, the water in which they were steamed 
makes a well-seasoned sauce. 

Boiled Apple Dumpliug-s. — Make a rich biscuit dough. Roll 
out on the moulding board almost as thin as pie crust. Cut into 
squares, or rounds, large enough to cover an apple. Pare and core 
the apples without dividing them, and fill with sugar and a pinch of 
cinnamon. Chop the suet very finely, rub it into the flour, and mix 
into a paste with the water ; roll it out to a thin paste, divide in 
pieces, roll the apples in it, taking care to join the paste neatly ; form 
into balls, tie in pieces of floured cloth and boil three-quarters of an 
hour. Serve with a sweet, hot sauce. Another Sauce : One and a 
half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, 2 spoonfuls of flour. 
Mix flour and sugar thoroughly, then work in the butter and pour 
on 2 teacupfuls of boiling water. 

Peacli Dumpliugs. — These dumplings may be made of either 
fresh or canned peaches, but are better of the fresh. Make a rich 
biscuit crust, cut in squares large enough to fold over the peach, and 
steam in a steamer for half an hour, being careful not to uncover 
them during that time. Serve with hard sauce. If the canned 
peaches are used, two of the halves should be put in each piece of 
crust, and the syrup will make a delicious sauce by adding 1 cup of 
sugar, and boiling 10 minutes, then adding a teaspoonful of butter, 
and a heaping 1 of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water and boiled 
up once. A dash of nutmeg is an improvement. 

Plum Duiiipliugs. — These are very attractively made by sifting 3 
cupfuls of flour, with which 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder have 
been mingled, slicing in a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and making 
into a soft dough with water. Stir in a cupful of plums, using either 
stewed fresh fruit or the canned article, according to the season. Par- 
tially fill cups with the batter, set them in a pan of hot water in the 
oven and steam for half an hour. Invert the dumplings on dessert 
plates and serve warm with liquid sauce. 

Strawberry Dnnipliug's. — Into a pint of sifted flour rub 2 
rounded tablespoonfuls of butter ; add 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 egg 
well beaten, 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, and sufficient 
milk to moisten. Mix quickly and roll out into a thin sheet, about a 
quarter of an inch thick. Cut out with a round biscuit cutter, place 
4 berries in the centre of each, fold the edges over and steam about 



340 DUMPLINGS, SHORl CAKES, ETC. 

25 minutes. Serve with strawberry sauce, or any other good hard 
sauce. 

Doug-li Dumplings. — Risen bread dough made into balls the size 
of apples and boiled a long time in a kettle of boiling water are nice 
eaten hot with molasses. A little shortening may be used. 

Berry Dumplings. — Most berries make good dumplings, among 
which are gooseberries, whortleberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc. 
Roll out biscuit dough, cut in squares, put a spoonful of berries on, 
bring corners together, place on a buttered tin. Melt a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, a heaping spoonful of sugar, one-half cupful of hot 
water. Dip over the squares. Sprinkle with sugar and bake. See 
" Strawberry Dumplings." 

Rice Apple Dumplings. — Boil a cupful of rice until about done — 
about 30 minutes — then drain. Take a square of cheesecloth, put 
the rice, the size of a saucer, in the centre of the cloth, put the apple 
in the centre of this, then fold up the corners of the cloth so as to 
fold the rice over the whole evenly. Tie tightly and throw into a 
kettle of boiling water, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, untie, and they 
are ready to serve. Serve with them any preferred sauce. 

Rice Dumplings. — Take a cupful of boiled rice, mash it fine, 
add to it 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, one- 
quarter teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a pinch of salt and the yolk 
of an egg. Moisten with a tablespoonful or two of cream ; flour the 
hands and make into balls ; tie in floured cloths. Steam or boil 40 
minutes. Serve with custard sauce or some preferred pudding sauce. 

Preserve Dumplings. — Make same as strawberry or other berry 
dumplings, and put in a spoonful of rich preserves, any kind. Tie in 
cloths and boil 30 minutes. Send hot to table ; eat with sweet cream. 

Lemon Dumplings. — One pint of grated bread crumbs, one-half 
cupful chopped suet, one-half cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 1 level 
tablespoonful of flour, the grated yellow rind of a lemon. Moisten 
all with the whites and yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs and the juice of 1 
lemon. Stir and put the mixture in small, well-buttered balls. Tie over 
each a floured cloth and boil or steam three-quarters of an hour. 
Turn out, and serve with any preferred sauce. Wine sauce is nice. 

Puff" Balls. — A piece of butter the size of an egg stirred with 3 
well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful sour cream, a pinch of salt. Stir 
well and make into a stiff batter with flour. Drop by spoonfuls into 



DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 341 

boiling water. Cook until the puffs rise to the surface. Dish hot 
with melted butter and serve for a side dish, or else with a sweet 
sauce for dessert. 

Strawberry Short Cake. — Put 1 quart of flour into a bowl, add 2 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful of salt and sift twice. 
Rub into this 1 tablespoonful of butter, and then add sufficient milk 
to make a soft dough, about 1^ cups. Take this out on the board 
and roll it out in a sheet about 1 inch thick. With a knife make it 
perfectly square, and put in a square, greased pan and bake, having 
the centre a little thinner than the edges. Have ready 3 boxes of 
berries, stemmed and mashed. Take a potato-masher and mash in 
the bowl, and then stir in a cup of sugar. After the cake has baked 
thoroughly, about 20 minutes, take it from the fire, and with a knife 
strip the edges and pull apart. Put one portion in a large platter and 
butter it thickly. Then cover up with strawberries. Put on the 
crust, cover it with strawberries, and serve at once with a good-sized 
pitcher of cold milk or cream. Instead of tearing the short cake 
apart, divide the dough into 2 or 3 parts, place the layers in the same 
tin, spreading melted butter between them. When baked, the layers 
will separate easily, and then proceed with the short cake as above. 
It may also be served cold. 

Cream Strawberry Short Cake. — One pint of sour cream, 1 tea- 
spoonful soda, pinch of salt. Flour to make a soft dough. Roll out 
1^ inches thick, bake, tear apart, and butter, or else bake in layers, 
one above the other, in the same pan, buttering between each one. 
Prepare with berries as above. Serve with whipped or unwhipped 
cream. Whipped cream should always be preferred, since the un- 
whipped penetrates into the short cake, rendering it sodden and un- 
wholesome. 

Quick Strawberry Short Cake. — Three helping cups of flour, 2 
teaspoons of cream of tartar and 1 teaspoon of saleratus sifted with 
flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a little salt and 1 tablespoon of melted 
butter worked into the flour ; then add 1 well-beaten egg and 2 cups 
of milk ; do not roll and knead on board, but put in biscuit pans 
soft, spread evenly with a great spoon : this recipe makes 2 short 
cakes ; bake in a hot oven 15 minutes ; when done split and spread 
on butter ; take 2 boxes of strawberries, hull and crush slightly in a 
deep dish, then add 1 j4 cups of sugar and spread between the two 



342 DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 

layers ; spread a little butter over the top of short cake, or whipped 
cream over the top is very nice. 

Peacli Short Cake. — Peach short cake is considered by many 
finer than strawberry. Peal and slice one dozen mellow peaches. 
Put the fruit in a dish, sprinkle with granulated sugar and let stand 
half an hour. Make an ordinary short cake, roll the dough out to 
an inch in thickness and the size of jelly-cake tins. Place on buttered 
tins and bake in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour. When the 
cakes are baked, with a sharp knife split around the edge and break 
apart. Butter the lower piece and spread thick with sliced peaches. 
Place the other cake on top of the peaches and cover with the re- 
maining fruit. Serve hot with cream. 

Peacli Cobbler. — Fill a shallow pudding dish with peaches which 
have been pared and cut in half. Remove seeds, sprinkle well with 
sugar and flour. Fill about half full of water, cover with rich pie 
crust, bake in a slow oven 1 hour. To be eaten with cream sauce. 

Apple Short Cake. — Mix a stiff batter as for biscuit. Put in a 
deep pie-tin with a spoon ; bake separate, butter well and fill with a 
thick layer of very nice tart apple sauce. Sprinkle with sugar, re- 
place the top, dusting over with sugar, and serve plain, with sweet- 
ened cream or milk. Other fruit may be served in the same way. 
Powdered sugar is best. 

Currant Short Cake. — Make crust same as for strawberries, mash 
currants, sweeten plentifully, and you will hardly miss the straw- 
berries. 

Lienion Short Cake. — Make a rich short cake. Bake in jelly- 
cake tins ; let cool and spread with the lemon filling for lemon layer 
cake. Dust sugar over the top and serve. 

Jelly Short Cake. — Can be made in the same way, substituting 
jelly for lemon butter. 

Pineapple Short Cake. — Take half a cupful of butter, 1 cupful 
of sugar, half a cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour and 2 teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder. Bake in 2 layers and spread chopped pineapple 
between the layers after the cake is cold. This recipe is very popu- 
lar down where the pines grow, but any recipe for strawberry short 
cake will do as well by substituting the pine for the berries. 

Rhubarb Short Cake. — Make a rich biscuit crust. When baked, 
split ; butter and place between the layers and on top a sauce made 



DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 343 

as follows : Two cupfuls of rhubarb, stewed and sweetened, to which 
has been added, just before removing from the stove, 1 cupful of 
chopped dates. This filling may be used for one-crust pies, but 
should be cooled before putting in the crust and a meringue spread 
on the top. 

Huckleberry Short Cake. — One quart huckleberries, 4 cups flour, 
2 cups milk, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder. Sift the salt with the flour and baking powder, chop in the 
shortening, add the milk and the beaten eggs, and mix quickly to a 
light dough. Roll out two sheets to fit a baking pan, making one 
sheet quarter of an inch thick, the other half an inch thick. Lay the 
thinner in the greased pan, spread the berries thickly over it, sprinkle 
with sugar, and lay on the upper crust. Bake about 20 minutes. 
Serve with cream and sugar, if desired. 

Chicag-o Short Cake. — Two tablespoonfuls butter and 1 teaspoon- 
ful baking powder mixed thoroughly with 1 quart of flour, enough 
cold water to form a soft dough. Roll about a half inch in thickness 
and place on a hot griddle, well greased. When brown on both sides, 
split with a sharp knife and butter, then lay the pieces together again. 
Five or six of these cakes can be laid one on top of the other and 
kept warm for half an hour if necessary. To serve, cut in quarters 
like a pie. A pleasant addition, if desired, is to put jelly or preserves 
between the layers. Or simply butter and serve with honey or maple 
syrup. 

Chicken Shortcake. — Make a biscuit dough by a baking-powder 
recipe and shorten it with butter. Divide it into three parts. Make 
one part into a cake, the size and shape of your platter, and bake it. 
Stew the chicken until tender, seasoning with thyme, pepper and salt. 
Split the shortcake, buttering both inner sides. Arrange the chicken 
on the lower half, cover with the upper, and pour over it as much 
gravy as it will take. Serve the rest in the gravy-boat. 

Sweet Shortcake. — Three tablespoonfuls butter creamed with a 
cup of powdered sugar, 3 eggs beaten separately, 1 cup sweet milk, 
2i^ cups of flour, 3 tablespoonfuls baking powder. Bake in layers. 




P5E DfSHES 

Few persons appreciate how many dainty 
and palatable dishes may be made with cheese. 
It is authoritatively stated that cheese taken 
after a hearty meal or rich dessert acts as a 
digestive. Those who are fond of cheese will find the 
following recipes worthy of a trial, and those who do 
not know how appetizing cheese may be made will have many a 
dainty dish in store for them. It is becoming more and more the 
habit of epicurean households to serve the cheese with the salad. That 
it harmonizes better with our dinners when served at that point is the 
natural result of the place we give to sweets. The French, who put it 
just before the coffee, do not care for anything in the line of dessert, 
and count the sweets a very unimportant detail of the dinner. Split 
common crackers, butter them slightly on each side, dust salt over 
them and brown in a hot oven. They are delicious with coffee and 
cheese. We all know how soon cheese dries up and is unfit for the 
table, but this same waste cheese can be made as good as new, and 
very nice-looking, by grating fine on a horseradish grater. Prepare 
only as much as is needed for immediate use, and you will find it good 
enough for anybody. 

How to Keep Cheese from Monlding-. — Place the cheese in a 
cloth, wet with good cider vinegar, which is to be wrapped closely 
around the cheese. Not only will cheese be kept from moulding, but 
a ham in the same way. 

Rusk for Cheese. — Break the bread into small, rough pieces, dip 
each one quickly in and out of cold milk; put them upon a perfectly 
clean baking tin and bake in a hot oven. In a few minutes they will 
be crisp, when they must be taken out, allowed to get cold and put 
away in a tin canister, to be used when required. 

Cheese Straws. — Roll thin a rich pie-crust and spread thickly 

with grated cheese and a dash of cayenne pepper. Fold over several 

times, roll again, and spread with cheese, repeating this process three 

times. Then roll out one-eighth of an inch thick ; cut in strips 4 inches 

344 



CHEESE DISHES. 345 

wide, and cut this paste in sticks one-eighth of an inch wide. Cut some 
of the paste in small rings, place both on buttered sheets, and bake in 
oven till light brown. Serve the straws through the rings like a 
bundle of sticks, or tie in bundles with bright ribbons. These are to 
be served with salad. 

Cheese Fing-ers. — Roll out a sheet of very light puff paste ; brush 
it over lightly with ice-water, cut in narrow strips, 5 or 6 inches long ; 
sprinkle with grated cheese, lay two strips together, arrange on a 
greased tin sheet, and bake in a quick oven for 15 minutes. 

Clieese Crusts. — They are made from half slices of stale bread, 
after trimming off the hard crust. Upon these oblongs of bread put 
a tablespoon of grated cheese, and brown slightly in the oven. These 
may be served hot or cold. 

Cheese Toast. — Spread thin slices of bread toasted a light brown 
with butter. Heap grated cheese on the slices of toast, sprinkle on 
half a teaspoon of mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoon of salt and a 
speck of cayenne. Put in a hot oven till the cheese begins to melt. 
Serve at once. 

Cheese Toast, Deviled. — Four tablespoonfuls grated cheese, 2 
egg yolks, 4 tablespoonfuls grated bread, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
Beat the whole well together with a dessertspoonful of dry mustard 
and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread lightly and cut it into 
small round or square pieces, spread the paste thick upon them, and 
place them in a hot oven and cover with a dish until heated. Then 
remove the dish and let the cheese mixture brown a little, and serve 
as soon as possible. 

Cheese Toast — II. Cut from a stale loaf of bread 6 slices about 
one-half inch thick. Beat 1 egg into a cupful of sweet milk, and add 
one-half pound of good cheese and 1 tablespoonful of butter. Put 
this mixture in a clean saucepan, set in a pan of boiling water and 
stir until quite smooth. Place the toast on a hot platter and cover 
with the dressing, in which should be added a pinch of cayenne. 
For a change this dish can be placed in the oven until a rich brown. 
It serves for luncheon or for a dinner course. 

Custard Cheese. — Remove the crust from 4 or 5 slices of bread 
and butter generously. Arrange in a buttered baking pan and 
sprinkle with some good sharp cheese. Beat well 4 eggs, add 3 cup- 
fuls of new milk and season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Pour 



346 CHEESE DISHES. 

the mixture over the bread and bake in a hot oven until very nicely 
browned. 

Cheese Canapes. — Cut bread into slices one-quarter inch thick, 4 
inches long and 2 inches wide ; spread it with butter and sprinkle it 
with salt and cayenne ; cover the top with grated American cheese 
or with grated Parmesan cheese, and bake it in the oven until the 
cheese is softened. Serve at once, before the cheese hardens. 

Cheese Squares. — Trim pieces of stale bread as neatly as pos- 
sible into squares and triangles. Make a sauce of a cupful of milk, 
half a cupful of grated cheese and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
Lay the bread on a large flat baking dish ; pour the sauce over and 
bake until nicely browned. These are also very nice to serve with a 
plain consomme soup. 

Cheese Crackers. — A dainty morsel for the hungry half hour be- 
fore bedtime is " cheese crackers." Spread thin zephyrettes or salted 
crackers with a little butter and sprinkle lightly with grated Parmesan 
cheese. Place on a dish in the oven long enough to brown them 
slightly. These will keep for several days. 

Deviled Cheese Crackers. — Cover Saratoga flakes with grated 
old cheese, give a sharp sifting of cayenne pepper, place in oven 
until cheese is melted. Serve hot, using ordinary small, round crackers. 

Cheese Flakes. — Buy a small box of reception flakes, such as 
can be found at any first-class grocery. Butter each cracker, then 
grate cheese on them, place in pan, put in a quick oven and brown. 
These are delicious flakes for a whist party or picnics. 

Liiiiich Crackers. — Split common crackers, butter them slightly 
on each side, dust salt over them, and brown in a hot oven. They are 
delicious with coffee and cheese. 

Deviled Biscuit and Cheese. — Take water biscuits, split them and 
butter each half generously. Sprinkle over it a layer of cheese. Set 
these in a baking pan. Dust over with cayenne, and set in a quick 
oven for about 5 minutes. When cheese is melted serve very hot. 

Welsh Rarebit. — To make a highly seasoned rarebit place over 
the fire in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and when it becomes 
melted put in 2 cups of cheese, broken into small pieces, a salt spoon- 
ful of salt, and half as much red pepper. Stir all the while, and when 
it becomes a soft mass, gradually stir into it 1 cup of ale. Meanwhile 
take the yolks of 2 eggs and add to them 3 teaspoonfuls of dry mus- 



CHEESE DISHES. 347 

tard, the same quantity of Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen 
drops of tobasco, and add this to the cheese mixture. If too thick 
add a little more ale. Pour over square pieces of toast and serve at once. 

Welsh Rarebit (without Ale). — A very simple and delicious 
rarebit may be made with 1 pound of cheese broken into pieces and 
put in a saucepan with half a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful of 
French mustard, a dash of paprika, a little salt, and 1 teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce. Place over the fire and stir until the cheese 
becomes melted. Have ready squares of toast, and pour the cheese 
mixture over them and serve immediately. 

Golden Buck. — Make same as above recipe, with the addition of 
a poached egg upon the top of each slice of toast and cheese mixture. 

Yorkshire Buck. — Same as a rarebit, with the addition of 2 strips 
of crisp bacon and 1 poached egg on top of each slice. 

Celery Cheese. — Take a head of celery, wash thoroughly, and 
boil until tender; drain well, and cut into small pieces. Have ready 
a half pint of cream and drawn butter, add pepper, salt and an ounce 
of grated cheese to it, put the celery into the sauce for a few minutes, 
then fill buttered scallop shells with the mixture, scatter grated cheese 
over the top, and bake for 10 minutes in a quick oven, when the 
cheese should be evenly browned. 

Browu Bread Savories. — Mix a sufficient quantity of grated 
cheese with thick cream until stiff, cut some slices of thin brown 
bread and butter, and spread between them the mixture, seasoned with 
a dust of pepper and celery salt. These should be eaten without delay. 

Cheese Puffs. — Place 4 ounces of grated cheese in a saucepan, 
with 1 }4 ounces of butter. Put over the fire, and when the ingre- 
dients begin to melt add 4 eggs beaten light, a saltspoon of salt, and 
half as much cayenne. Stir and cook until you can roll it up into a 
soft muff-shaped form, when serve at once. 

Cheese Ring's. — Take 2 ounces of grated cheese. It should be 
dry and rich. Mix with twice the quantity of sifted flour, salt to 
taste, and flavor with a teaspoonful of white pepper and a little cay- 
enne. Add the yolks of 2 eggs beaten light, the juice of a large, 
fresh lemon, and enough melted butter to form a paste. Roll it until 
an eighth of an inch thick. Make in small rings, flour them and let 
them bake until crisp. Tie them together when cool, 3 in a bunch, 
with narrow ribbon, and lay beside each plate. 



348 CHEESE DISHES. 

Cheese Timbale. — Six eggs, 1 gill of milk, salt and pepper to 
taste, 2 tablespoons of grated cheese. Beat the eggs well without 
separating the yolks and whites, add the milk and seasoning; stir in 
the cheese, and pour into well-greased little tin pans with straight 
sides ; set these in a pan of hot water and bake in the oven ; when the 
eggs are firm turn out on a flat dish, and pour a white sauce over them. 

Cheese and Bacon. — An excellent dish and one very much liked 
for late suppers is iriade thus : Place in a small double boiler 6 ounces 
of grated cheese, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoon of salt, a pinch 
of cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a half cup of milk, 
and 1 beaten egg. Stir over the fire until it is a creamy mass. Mean- 
while cut pieces of bread 2 inches wide and 3 long and toast them. 
Cover them with a thick layer of cheese mixture, and lay on each 
piece a slice of hot, crisp bacon. Place in the oven for a moment 
and the dish is ready to serve. 

Cheese Dessert. — Take as many slices of stale bread as needed ; 
melt 1 spoon of butter wnth 1 of lard in the frying-pan. Beat up 2 
eggs and 2 spoons of sugar. Dip bread into sugar and eggs. Fry 
in hot lard and butter until it is a nice brown. Have as many thin 
slices of cheese as there are slices of bread. When the bread is 
browned put the cheese on it and set in the oven until the cheese is 
thoroughly warmed. Serve at once with tea or coffee. 

Cottage Cheese. — Place a panful of milk, which has soured 
enough to become thick, over a pan of hot water. Let it heat slowly 
until the whey has separated from the curd. Do not let it boil, or 
the curd will become tough. Then strain it through a cloth and 
press out all the whey. Stir into the curd enough butter, cream and 
salt to make it a little moist and of good flavor. Work it well with 
a spoon until it becomes fine grained and consistent. Then mould it 
into balls of any size desired. 

Sniearkase. — Pour a little boiling water into 1 quart or more of 
sour milk, stir, and let it stand 1 hour in a warm place, separate from 
the whey and put on ice ; in the morning season with salt, pepper 
and half a cup of cream. 

Cream Cheese. — Take sour cream, salt it slightly and hang it up 
in a linen bag to drain until dry. This takes two days or more, 
Then put in a deep dish, still in the bag, and let it ripen for a week, 
sprinkling it with salt daily. Good for luncheon. 








The art of making entrees 
really well and serving them in 
perfection is easily acquired, and is certainly 
worth learning, as those dishes never fail to 
meet with hearty appreciation. First, then, see that all the 
ingredients are of the finest quality, and mix them in exact 
accordance to the directions given in such case ; then see 
that the oven is just at the right heat, and let every separate item 
employed in the serving be made thoroughly hot before using ; send 
the entree to table as speedily as possible after it is cooked, as every 
moment it is kept waiting tends to destroy the puffiness which ren- 
ders it so enjoyable; and, lastly, never wash the tins in which the en- 
trees are cooked, but rub them well with a clean, soft cloth Some 
entrees to be used as side dishes, and others in the nature of desserts. 
Salmon Entree. — Put in a clean enameled stew-pan 3 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and an equal amount of flour; blend these into a 
smooth paste ; season with salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful anchovy 
sauce, and add three-fourths pint of milk. Stir constantly until the 
mixture boils. Draw the saucepan then on one side of the fire, and 
add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 dessert-spoonful minced parsley, the 
beaten yolks of 4 fresh eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls tomato pulp, and half 
pound of finely chopped raw salmon — weighed after chopping. When 
thoroughly mixed, stir in, very lightly, the whites of 6 fresh eggs 
which have been whipped to a stiff froth, with the addition of a pinch 
of salt. Have ready a properly prepared entree tin, and pour in the 
mixture ; then sprinkle the surface lightly with very fine light-brown 
bread raspings, scatter bits of fresh butter on the top, and bake in a 
moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour, after which ornament 
the entree top with wee patches of finely minced hot parsley and sifted 
^SS yolk, and serve as quickly as possible, accompanied by some 
well-made sauce — anchovy, shrimp, maitre d'hotel, oyster or lobster — 
in a hot sauceboat. If salmon cannot be had, use any other fine, 
fresh fish instead. 

849 



350 ENTREES. 

Chicken Entree. — Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add the same 
quantity of flour and one-half cupful of milk ; when hot and smooth, 
add a pint of bread crumbs, cook a minute, and then add 1 pint of 
cooked chopped chicken. Separate 3 eggs, beat the yellows, and 
add to the mixture, takmg it from the fire while you do so ; add a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash 
of red pepper, and then fold in lightly the frothed whites and the 3 
eggs. Bake in individual paper or china cases, and serve as soon as 
taken from the oven. For a family luncheon it may be cooked in a 
baking-dish. 

Chicken and Ham Entree. — Mix together butter and flour as 
directed in salmon entree, then add seasoning of salt, pepper and 
mace, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely 
minced onion or eschalot, and three-quarters of a pint of rich, clear, 
white stock, and stir constantly over a moderate fire until the mixture 
boils ; then add — off the fire — 4 fresh egg yolks, half pound, scant, 
of finely minced cooked chicken, 3 ounces of lean cooked ham, also 
finely minced, and the whites of 6 fresh eggs seasoned with salt and 
whipped to a stiff froth, after which cook and serve as already di- 
rected, accompanied by rich sauce. 

Meat Entree. — Prepare a nice, savory mince of any kind of meat, 
seasoned to taste, and mixed with any good sauce, white or brown, 
according to the meat you have at hand. Now beat the whites of 2 
or 3 eggs to a very stiff froth, with a little salt, a good seasoning of 
coralline pepper, and, when liked, a spoonful or two of grated Par- 
mesan cheese. Pile this on the top of the mince, which should be 
put into a souffle case, and put it in the oven till of a delicate brown. 
Sprinkle it with finely chopped chives or parsley, and serve at once. 
Any sort of meat can be served in this way, but vary the seasoning 
accordingly. 

Cheese Entree. — Place over the fire in a saucepan 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, and when it is hot add a heaping tablespoonful of flour 
and stir until smooth. Then add a half cup of cream or milk and 
salt and cayenne to taste. Beat light the yolks of 3 eggs, and add 
them with a cupful of grated cheese. Remove from the fire and put 
in a cool place. When cold add the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
stiff froth. Pour into a buttered dish and bake about 20 minutes. 
This, like all souffles, must be taken immediately from the oven to the 



ENTREES. 351 

table. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of dry mustard instead of 
1 dish. The preparation can be baked in small fancy cases, and one 
served to each person. 

Entree (Plaiu). — Heat 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, 
stir in 2 dessertspoons of flour till smooth, then add 1 tumbler of 
milk ; heat till starch-like ; put in your pudding dish and stir in the 
unbeaten yolks of 4 eggs ; then whip the whites as light as possible 
with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir therein and bake in quick oven. 
Serve hot, with foaming sauce. Flavor with vanilla. 

Potato Eutree. — Roast 12 good potatoes and rub them through 
a coarse sieve ; pour a pint of boiling cream, flavored with grated 
rind and juice of 1 lemon, over the well-beaten yolks of 6 eggs, and 
mix lightly into this the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
and stir it all into the potato ; pour the whole into a buttered and 
papered souffle dish, and bake. 

Cauliflower Entree. — Trim the vegetable neatly, and blanch it 
well, then boil it in the usual way until quite tender, after which 
take it up, drain it thoroughly, and divide it into tiny sprigs or flow- 
erets ; arrange these very lightly in a buttered souffle tin, after 
seasoning them nicely with salt, pepper and lemon juice; then pour 
over a mixture prepared as follows : 

Entree Mixture — Two tablespoonfuls of flour blended with 2 table- 
spoonfuls of butter, stir together in a clean granite saucepan over a 
moderate fire, then add the beaten yolks of 2 fresh eggs, a seasoning 
of salt and cayenne, and half pint of milk, and continue stirring until 
the mixture boils ; then draw the pan on one side, stir in lightly 4 
tablespoonfuls of grated cheese (equal parts of Parmesan and good 
American) and the whites of 3 fresh eggs which have been slightly 
salted and stiffly whipped. Put on the paper band and finish off with 
fine brown raspings and bits of butter, as directed for salmon. Bake 
carefully in a well-heated oven, then ornament the top, as quickly as 
possible, with alternate patches or rings of sifted &^^ yolk or finely- 
minced parsley, and serve immediately, accompanied or not, by some 
well-made cream Bechamel, French white, or maitre d'hotel sauce in 
a sauce-boat. 

Various vegetables may be made into a souffle, such as aspara- 
gus, freshly-shelled green peas, very small even-sized Brussels sprouts, 
or properly prepared artichokes, cucumbers, vegetable marrows, 



352 ENTREES. 

French beans, etc., cut up into small, neat pieces or slices, and pre- 
pare as above. Even a mixture of vegetables will answer. 

Ground Rice Entree. — Put into a suitable stewpan 2 ounces of 
fine white sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 1 large tablespoonful of flour, 
the grated rind of a fresh lemon, 3 ounces of ground rice, three- 
fourths pint of milk, 4 egg yolks, a pleasant flavoring of vanilla, or 
some other essence, and stir together over a moderate fire until the 
mixture boils and forms a nice smooth paste ; then remove the pan 
from the fire. Stir in 4 tablespoonfuls of cold milk and the whites 
of 6 eggs properly prepared, and pour the mixture into a soufBe tin, or 
dish, which has previously been got ready, scattering tiny bits of but- 
ter on the top, and bake in the usual manner. Some dainty sauce, or 
a compote of fruit may accompany this dish, or not, just according 
to taste. 

Note. — Souffles of arrowroot, tapioca, sago, semolina, etc., are all 
exceedingly nice when made according to the foregoing instructions. 

Potato Souffle. — Make from freshly cooked Irish potatoes, or 
mashed potatoes, warmed up. To six medium-sized mashed potatoes 
add 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, yolk of 1 &^^, 1 gill of cream, 
1 teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Mix smooth and 
beat light; into this lightly stir whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff; put in 
hot buttered dish, grate cheese over it, brown and serve quickly in 
the same dish. 

Souffle-Tin. — If a proper souffle-tin is come-at-able, it is the right 
thing to use ; and as it forms the lining of a silver souffle-dish, it 
looks exceedingly pretty on the table. But if something else has to 
be substituted, use a deep, straight-sided cake-tin, or even a deep pie- 
dish ; and in every case fix firmly round the tin or the dish which is 
used a strong paper band, to stand about three inches above the top, 
so that when the souffle rises, as it does very considerably, the pre- 
paration may be kept from running over the sides. When done, if a 
proper tin has been used, just remove the paper band and slip the tin 
gently into the silver dish, which has been made thoroughly hot in 
readiness ; but if a cake-tin or a pie-dish has been employed, have 
ready a very hot, neatly-folded napkin, or fancy frill of some kind, 
and as soon as ever the paper band has been removed, fix this on and 
serve the souffle set on a very hot, fancy dish-paper. 




i^PASTRY 

The excellency of pastry depends 
quite as much on its being properly 
baked as it does on the ingredients and 
their preparation. If the oven is too cool, 
the crust of pies, tarts or patties will fall 
and be heavy; if, on the contrary, the heat is too great, 
it will burn before baking. A small piece of crust 
may be placed in the oven to test it, or a little flour sprinkled 
on the bottom of the oven. If it browns readily, the oven is 
in proper condition ; if it turns black, it is too hot ; if it only colors 
slightly, it is too slow. When prepared for baking, all pastry should 
be ice cold, and set in the hottest part of the oven. After the pastry 
has risen, the heat may be slightly decreased, or the pies covered 
with a sheet of paper. This latter precaution is especially necessary 
for large fruit or meat pies. 

An improvement in pie crust is made by the addition of baking 
powder, in the proportion of about 1 small teaspoonful of baking 
powder, to a quart of flour. To make pie crust more flaky, brush 
the paste as often as it is rolled out with the white of an egg, then 
put on the bits of butter, fold and roll again. This causes it to rise 
in flakes, which is the great beauty in puff paste. Pie crust can be 
kept a week and be perfectly good, if it is put in a tightly covered dish 
and set on ice in summer and a cool place in winter. In this way a 
fresh pie can be made every day without trouble. In baking cream, 
custard or pumpkin pies, it is well to partly bake the under crust 
before putting in the filling. 

If stewed fruit is to be used, have it perfectly cold before putting 
in, otherwise it will soak, and render the under crust heavy. A 
marble slab makes a cool, nice bread-board for pastry. Roll pastry 
in one direction, from you. 

Tart pies should always have a heavy edge to the under crust 
Lay on a narrow strip of pastry and pinch together with the fingers, 
or cut the crust larger than the tin and roll the edge over. Ice- 
water, or very cold water, should be used for mixed pastry. U'^e as 
little as possible. The butter or lard used in shortening should be 
23 353 



354 PIES AND PASTRY. 

cold. Cut the shortening into the flour with a knife, and keep the 
fingers out of the dough as much as possible. Roll the under crust 
of a pie a little thicker than the upper. Two kinds of crust may be 
used in making a pie. Divide the dough, which should be of a 
moderate richness. Leave a little more than half of it for the lower 
crust. Roll in more butter or lard into the smaller half Spread 
and fold ; roll again. Repeat this, and the result will be a flaky crust 
to use for the upper part of the pie. To dot the butter over the 
crust is better than to spread it evenly. 

One-third cornmeal added to pie crust makes it lighter and more 
digestible. Biscuit pie crust is wholesome. Apples used for mince- 
pie need not be peeled. Wash, dry and chop fine. Dried apples, 
soaked over night and chopped fine, may be substituted for the fresh 
fruit in mince-meat. Dried fruit, prepared with sugar, such as dried 
cherries, gooseberries, etc., may be substituted instead of raisins in 
mince pies. Soak over night in as little water as possible and throw 
in both water and fruit. This will be found very nice as well as eco- 
nomical. White potatoes, chopped fine and soaked over night in 
vinegar, are sometimes used as a substitute for apples in mince-meat. 
Fruit pies take less sugar if they are sweetened after baking. Re- 
move the upper crust and put in the sugar. Wild grapes may be pre- 
served for winter use by putting in a jar and covering with molasses. 
These will be found very nice for pies. Apples cut in quarters and 
stewed in sweet cider or molasses are good for plain pies. Season 
with cinnamon or nutmeg. This will keep in excellent condition for 
several months. 

Pumpkins that have commenced to decay may be preserved by 
cutting up the best parts, stewing until soft, sweetening well with 
sugar and molasses and seasoning with ginger. Scald in the season- 
ing thoroughly. Keep in a stone jar in a cool place. When wanted 
for use thin the desired amount with milk and eggs. Never grease a 
pie plate, but sift a thin layer of flour over ; there will be fat enough 
from the paste to slip the pie from the plate ; plates will keep sweet 
longer. Sift a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar over the top of two- 
crust pies before baking and see how delicious it makes them. If 
the top of a pie is brushed over with an egg, it gives it a ver}^ orna- 
mental gloss. To prevent the juice of pies from running over, thrust 
little funnels of white paper into the cuts on top. through which the 



PIES AND PASTRY. 355 

steam may escape and the juice boil up, and then run back into the 
pie again when it stops cooking. 

Again, fruit pies can have a narrow band of muslin around the pie, 
covering the edge. This keeps in the juice and prevents the besmeared 
appearance which fruit pies are apt to have. Or, put the usual amount 
of sugar in a bowl, add enough cold water to make a sort of dough, 
stir in a tablespoonful of flour, or a teaspoonful of cornstarch, mix 
thoroughly. Pour this over the fruit. Put on the top crust and bake. 

To Make a Pie. 

Roll out the crust to fit the pie-plate. Press it neatly in shape, 
and then cut off the edges evenly. Take some more of the paste and 
the fragments left from trimming off the under crust, and roll out for the 
upper crust. Fold this together, and cut 3 or 4 half-inch slits about 
one-quarter inch from middle. This permits the escape of steam 
without injuring the shape of the pie. Now fill the pie-plate with the 
prepared filling. Wet the top edge of the rim. Lay the upper crust 
across the centre of the pie, turn back the folded-over side, fasten the 
two edges by pressing with the thumb, and cut off the paste even 
with the tin. Run a pastry wheel around the edge, or simply notch 
with a fork, or leave plain. Bake a light brown and until the filling 
boils up through the openings. Wet the under crust with the white 
of an egg to prevent fruit juices, or soft fillings, from soaking the 
under crust. 

Plain Pie Crust. — Cut 1 cup (half a pound) of butter into 3 cups 
of flour; add 1 teaspoonful of salt and sufficient ice-water to moisten 
and roll. A small teaspoonful of baking powder is an addition ; half 
teaspoonful salt. The secret of making good pastry is to touch it as 
little as possible with the hand. To make the pies nicer, one-quarter 
of the shortening may be left out, and the pastry for the upper crust 
can be rolled flat, dotted with butter and lard ; sprinkle with flour, fold 
together and roll again, repeating this operation until the shortening 
is used. This will give a flaky upper crust. Three-fourths of cup of 
shortening can be used with the baking powder. Some cooks prefer 
lard to butter, as making a whiter crust. 

Extra Mince-Meat. — Two pounds raw beef, chopped fine ; 2 pounds 
suet, minced fine ; 4 pounds tart apples, chopped ; 2 pounds currants ; 
2 pounds raisins ; 2 pounds citron, sliced fine ; 2 pounds brown 



3oG 



PIES AND PASTRY. 



sugar; 1 quart New Orleans molasses ; 4 tablespoonfuls salt; ly( 
tablespoonfuls mixed spices, cinnamon, cloves and allspice ; hall 
ounce white pepper; 2 grated nutmegs; juice of 2 lemons ; 1 quart 
cider; 1 quart of brandy, or fruit juice. Mix first meat, which be 
sure is not cooked, with salt, suet and spices ; then apple, fruit; next 
lemons, then sugar. Should be made several weeks before using. 

Mock Mince Pie. — Four crackers, rolled ; 2 eggs, half cupful 
chopped raisins, half cupful raisins, half cupful vinegar, 1 cupful hot 
water, one-quarter cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful molasses, 1 
teaspoonful each of all kinds of spices, 1 teaspoonful salt. This 
makes 3 pies. 

Glazing- Pastry. — To glaze or ice pastry, which is the usual 
method for fruit tarts, etc., beat the white 
of an egg to a froth. When the crust is 
nearly baked brush it over with this, and 
sift granulated sugar over it. Put back 
in the oven to glaze for a few minutes, 
being careful that the glaze does not burn. 
Puff Paste. — One pound of flour, 
three-fourths pound of butter, the yolk of 
1 egg; chop half of the butter in the 
flour, then add the beaten yolk, and as 
much ice water as is needed to work all 
into a dough ; roll out thin, and spread on some of the butter, fold 
closely, buttered side in, and reroll ; repeat until the butter is all used 
up ; keep in a cool place until you wish to use it 

Lienion Mering-ue Pie. — Yolks of 3 eggs, creamed, with 1 cupful 
sugar; add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs. Beat the whole until 
light. Add 3 lemons' juice and grated rind, 1 tablespoonful butter. 
Stand the bowl in a basin of boiling water over the fire and stir until 
the mixture thickens ; set away to cool. Line a pie-dish with good 
paste and bake ; then pour in the lemon mixture. Beat the remain- 
ing white of egg with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar; put this 
meringue over top of the pie and set in oven until a golden brown. 
Frosting. — Beat whites of 2 eggs stiff, then boil 1 cup of sugar 
in a little water till it strings from fork, then pour on the whites and 
.stir fast; then spread on pie with a knife which has been wet in cold 
water; then set in oven a couple of minutes to set the frosting. 




PIES AND PASTRY. 



35^ 




.^■^ 



Leiuou Molasses Pie. — Take 1 lemon (if small, 2), pare and boil 
the peel and then chop, with 1 cup of raisins ; then add 1 cup of 
sugar, either white or brown; one-half cup of molasses, 1 tablespoon 
of flour stirred thin in cold water ; a small piece of butter, and 1 cup 
of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons and mix all together. 
These are to be baked with two crusts. 

Sliced Leiuoii Pie. — Line the pie-plate with rich crust, put in 1 
cup of sugar. Slice a large lemon, after peeling very thin, taking out 
the seeds. Put on the upper crust, pressing very tightly; bake slowly 
1 hour. The lemon and sugar form a delightful tart jelly. 

Lemon Pie Without Eg-g-s. — This is good and convenient to 
have ; juice and grated rind of 2 lemons, 4 pounded crackers, 2 cups 
of water, 1^ cups of sugar; 2 pies. 

Orange Pie. — Prepare 1 cup of orange juice and pulp, and the 
grated rind of half an orange. Cream 
1 tablespoonful of butter, add 1 cup 
of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, well 
beaten, and the orange. Soak 2 
tablespoonfuls of cracker crumbs in 
half a cup of milk, and add them to 
the orange and egg mixture. Bake 
in one crust and cover with a me- 
ringue of the whites of the eggs 
beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

Apple Pie. — Pare and core tart 
ripe apples. Slice thin. Fill the 
under crust. Add a small teacupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
water. Dredge the top well with flour. Dot over with bits of butter ; 
flavor with cinnamon or nutmeg. Add the upper crust. Bake about 
40 minutes. If the apples are not tart enough, add the lemon juice. 
A nice apple sauce may be used in pie shells. See above. Sweet 
cream may be served with apple pies. Bake a nice apple pie ; cut it 
hot, and pour cream over it. Serve immediately. Delicious. 

Winter Apple Pie. — Chop half a dozen large apples quite fine : 
mix them with the juice of a lemon and a little grated rind, 1 cup of 
chopped currants and raisins, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter ; 
cut in small pieces. Mix all together, lay in a pie-plate lined with 
paste, cover and bake. 







Nutmeg G-rater. 



358 PIES AND PASTRY. 

Apple Mering-ue Pie. — Line a pie-plate with nice Crust. Fill 
with stewed apples, sweetened and flavored Bake in a moderate 
oven until the paste is a light brown. Allow the whites of 2 eggs for 
each pie, beat them stiff and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar and a little 
extract of vanilla. When the pies are baked, spread the meringue 
over them, and return to the oven a few minutes. 

Pork Apple Pie. — Line the pie-plate with good crust ; slice in a 
layer of apples ; cut bits of salt pork over them ; dust on a little cinna- 
mon ; repeat this once more. Cover the whole with three-fourths 
cupful sugar. Put on the top crust, and bake slowly about 1 hour. 
Some cooks use 4 tablespoonfuls of molasses to sweeten this pie 
instead of sugar. 

Custard Pie, Plain. — Heat 1 pint of milk, boiling hot, mix to- 
gether 2 tablespoonfuls flour, half cupful sugar, 2 eggs. Stir into 
the boiling milk and cook 10 minutes, taking care not to burn. Take 
from the stove. Flavor to suit. Pour it into the crust, which should 
have been already baked. Leave out white of 1 egg, if wished, and 
whip to a froth with a spoonful of sugar, and spread it over the top 
of the pie as soon as it is cool. Place in the oven to harden. 

Harlequin Cream Pie. — Cover a pie tin with pastry. Put a 
layer of bright-colored jelly (currant is best) in the bottom ; fill up 
with mock cream filling (see recipe) ; afterwards cover with a meringue 
or frosting. This pie is delicious, and when cut is ornamental in ap- 
pearance. 

Eg-gless Pumpkin Pie. — Peel and cut the pumpkin in small 
pieces ; stew until tender, in very little water, or steam until done, and 
mash. Have the pulp as dry as possible. Beat smooth or rub 
through a colander. Turn 1)4 pints of boiling milk upon 1 quart of 
the sifted pumpkin. Sweeten with two-thirds of a cup of molasses 
and half cupful sugar, half teaspoonful salt ; spice or not to suit the 
taste. A teaspoonful each of cinnamon and ginger is a good flavor- 
ing. The boiling milk causes the pumpkin to swell in baking, so that 
it is as light as if eggs had been used. 

Custard Pumpkin Pie. — To every quart of cooked and strained 
pumpkin (prepared according to directions above given) add 1 quart 
of milk and 3 eggs. One teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a 
little of the milk will make the pie cut more solid. Sweeten to taste 
with brown sugar, or sugar and molasses half and half. If the milk 



PIES AND PASTRY. 359 

is not very rich, add 1 teaspoonful melted butter to this rule. Season 
with cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, or ginger and cinnamon. Mo- 
lasses helps' give the pie a rich color. The rim of a pumpkin pie is 
apt to scorch before the filling is done. On this account to heat the 
pumpkin scalding hot before putting in the pie tins is a good plan. 
Glaze the pie-crust before doing this way, and bake immediately that 
the crust may not grow sodden. 

Plain Pumpkin Pie. — One quart of sifted pumpkin, 2 table- 
spoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart of milk, 1 egg ; sweeten and flavor ac- 
cording to any of the before-given rules ; rub the cornstarch smooth 
in a little of the milk. Bake in one crust. Very good. 

Sqiiasli Pie. — Cut the squash in pieces and steam till done ; beat 
smooth or rub through a colander. Hubbard squash is best. To 

1 quart of sifted squash add 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs well beaten, 1 
cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon, mace 
and ginger, 1 teaspoonful salt, level. This will make two large pies. 
Raise the edges of the pastry a little to prevent overflow. 

Mering-ue Squash Pie. — Prepare squash as above. Take 2 cup- 
fuls squash, 1 cupful of sweet milk, 1 cupful of sugar, the yolks of 4 
eggs well beaten, a pinch of salt, half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 
and one-third teaspoonful of ginger. Mix all the ingredients thor- 
oughly, line a pan with paste and fill it. Bake until done. Beat the 
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add half cupful of sugar, spread it 
over the pies, and leave them in oven until meringue is a rich brown. 

Chocolate Pie. — Half cupful sugar, 3 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful 
butter, scald together ; add 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, yolks of 

2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, dissolved in a little cold milk. 
Stir into the hot milk and sugar until thick and smooth. Flavor with 
half teaspoonful vanilla. Line a pie-plate with a rich crust and bake. 
Fill this shell with the mixture. Make a meringue of the whipped 
whites of the eggs sweetened. Put in the oven to set. Or, whip 
one-quarter cup of sweet cream to a froth and spread over the choco- 
late mixture. 

Cranberry Mering-ue Pie. — To make cranberry pie with eggs : 
Take 1 coffeecupful of finely chopped cranberries and a cup of sugar 
beaten with 1 whole egg and the yolks of 2 eggs. Mix them thor- 
oughly, and turn into a plate lined with pie crust, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and add 2 



360 PIES AND PASTRY. 

tablespoonfuls of suijar. When the pie is baked, spread the meringue 
roughly over the top and return to the oven for a few moments to 
brown hghtly. 

Cranberry Molasses Pie. — To 1 quart chopped cranberries add 2 
cups of sugar and half cup of molasses, 1 cup of boiling water, 2 
tablespoons of cornstarch ; mix thoroughly, and cook until about as 
thick as raspberry jam ; when cool, fill pie-plate lined with rich crust ; 
put narrow strips of crust across the top and bake. 

Gooseberry Tart Pie. — Line a pie-dish with a rich crust, place 
.inside the dish a quart of picked gooseberries and plenty of sugar, 
add a little water. Have a heavy rim to the pie-crust, and leave the 
pie open, or finish with cross-bars of paste over the top. 

Peach Meriiig-ue Pie. — Line a deep earthen pie-plate with a rich 
pie-crust that has been rolled thin. Peel and slice enough peaches 
to fill the plate very full, and sift sugar over them. Crack half a 
dozen of the peach stones and take out the meat, blanch, ciiop fine and 
scatter among the fruit. Bake in moderate oven. For the meringue, 
use the white of 2 eggs, beaten into a stiff froth, and 2 tablespoonfuls 
of sugar. Spread over the peaches and return to the oven and 
brown lightly. Delicious. 

Meringue for Pudding's or Pies. — Beat the whites of 3 eggs to 
a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, dried and 
sifted, and the juice of half a small lemon. Spread this meringue 
over the pie, dredge it liberally with powdered sugar, and put it in a 
moderately hot oven. At the end of 10 minutes it should be a light, 
even brown all over. If it browns more rapidly, the oven is too hot, 
and nothing is so disastrous to the success of a meringue as a too-hot 
oven. A properly baked meringue rises slowly and evenly, and does 
not brown until it has risen, nor does it fall flat when taken from oven. 

Peach Pie. — Peel, stone and slice the peaches. Line the pie-plate 
with crust, and lay in the fruit, sprinkling sugar over liberally in 
proportion to their sweetness. Allow 3 peach kernels, chopped fine, 
to each pie. Pour in a very little water. Bake with an upper crust, 
or with cross-bars of paste across. A variation of this is to peel, 
halve and stone medium-sized peaches. Fill a deep pie-plate with 
them, heaping them towards the centre of the dish and sprinkling 
them liberally with sugar. Cover with a top crust and bake. Eat 
while warm. 



PIES AND PASTRY. S6l 

Peach Custard Pie. — Use 1 crust ; peel peaches and halve them, 
and turn the hollow side upward ; sweeten as you would a peach pie ; 
take 1 egg, a 'pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful of sugar; beat; add milk 
enough to cover the peaches; bake. Eat when partly cold. Canned 
peaches will answer as well as fresh. 

Meringue Strawberry Pie. — Make a very rich pie crust and cut 
it round as a dinner plate ; bake it light brown in a quick oven ; the 
minute it is done cover it with strawberries rolled in sugar ; over the 
berries spread a meringue made of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, 
with 3 tablespoons of sugar ; put back in oven and bake a golden 
brown. It is delicious served hot or cold. Instead of the meringue, 
whip half cupful sweet cream and heap over the top. 

Ripe Tomato Pie. — Line a pie-plate with a nice crust. Peel and 
slice sufficient tomatoes (half ripe ones are really better) to fill the 
pie. Sprinkle over the top half a cupful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of 
flour, butter the size of a walnut, cut this in bits, and flavor with 
lemon. Cover with an upper ciust. 

Green Tomato Pie. — Line a pie tin with rich pie crust and sprin- 
kle over the bottom 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of ground 
ginger or cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and two-thirds cupful 
of sugar. Fill with green tomatoes sliced thin. Pour overall half a 
cupful of vinegar, and bake with a top crust. 

Apricot Pies, Dried. — Soak 1 cup of dried apricots over night ; 
in the morning cool the apricots, and sweeten as for sauce; let it 
cool. Bake with 2 crusts; have the pie quite moist. This makes 
one medium-sized pie. A tart pie can be made by using an under 
crust and putting cross bars of pastry over the top of the pie. 

Clierry Pie. — Line a deep pie-dish with plain paste, and brush 
the latter over with white of egg, to prevent soaking. Fill the dish 
nearly full of pitted cherries, and over them spread evenly from a half 
to a whole cupful of sugar, according to the size of the dish and the 
acidity of the fruit. Cover carefully after dredging with flour. 

Tarts and Cheese Cakes. 

Tart Shells. — Line small tins or patty pans with nice pie or puff 
paste. Prick two or three times with a fork to prevent blistering. 
Glaze according to recipe ; sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake 
and put away. Ends of paste left from pie-making may be used in 



S62 PIES AND PASTRY. 

this fashion. They are always convenient to have on hand for an 
emergency, since filHng with jelly or preserved fruit makes a dainty 
dish for unexpected guests. 

Tai't Paste. — One cupful butter, 1 tablespoonful white sugar, 1 
white of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls water, flour to roll out. They may 
be baked in gem pans. The shells will keep quite a while in a close 
tin box. They may be heated for a moment in the oven. 

Chocolate Tarts. — Line patty tins with puff paste and bake, then 
fill with the following mixture : One pint of boiling milk, the yolks 
of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 tablespoon cold water, 10 ounces of grated 
chocolate, 1 ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of but- 
ter. Cook until it thickens, then cool. 

Cocoaniit Tarts. — Dissolve half a pound of sugar in half a pint 
of water ; add a pound of grated cocoanut, and stir over the fire for 
5 minutes. Let cool. Add the beaten yolk and the white of 1 egg. 
Line little tart pans with puff paste; fill with the mixture and bake. 

Berry Tarts. — Line small patty pans with rich crust and filling 
with raspberries, blackberries, whortleberries, or other berries Heap 
up high in the centre ; sprinkle freely with powdered sugar ; wet the 
edges of the paste with ice water ; lay on a thin crust of light puff 
paste ; press the edges together, and with a sharp knife trim off 
evenly ; press around the base of the fruit about a fourth of an inch 
from the edge of the pan, so as to push the fruit up in a cone in the 
centre, when the juice will run around the groove formed by pressing. 
Bru^h crust of each tart over with ice water and bake in quick oven. 

Strawberry Tarts. — Line little tart-pans with delicate puff pas»:e, 
fill with strawberry jam, sprinkle the tops with sugar and bake in a 
very quick oven. Let cool and pile whipped cream over the top. 
Arrange on a large, flat dish and set on the luncheon or tea table. 

Cranberry Tartlets. — Line patty pans with paste, fill with cran- 
berry sauce and bake. When done, spread over the top a meringue 
formed by beating the white of 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of pulverized 
sugar and return to the oven to brown. 

Apple Tarts. — Line patty pans with nice pastry. Bake ; fill with 
sifted, sweetened apple sauce. Dust powdered sugar over the top or 
heap them with whipped creafii. 

Grandmother's Apple Tarts. — Line round patties with rich 
paste. In each place the half of a peeled, tart apple, drop a tea- 



PIES AND PASTRY. 3G3 

spoonful of cream, a bit of butter and as much sugar as it will hold 
in the centre. Grate nutmeg over and bake in a quick oven until the 
apples are done. 

Whipped Creaiu Tarts. — Sweeten and flavor the cream. Put in 
puff paste tart shells with a dot of currant jelly on each, 

Raisiu Tarts. — Take pie crust and cut out with scalloped cutter ; 
use two crusts to each tart. For filling, 1 cupful chopped raisins, 
half cup of sugar. 

Gi'eeu Gage Tartlets. — Choose fine and sound, but not overripe, 
gages, and take out the stones without entirely dividing the fruit ; let 
them simmer in syrup for about 5 minutes and let cool. Make some 
good short pastry, roll it out very thinly, stamp it into rounds with a 
fluted cutter which is half an inch larger in diameter than the tartlet 
moulds ; then line the moulds with the rounds. Drain the gages, set 
them closely together in the moulds, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
When baked, brush the edges of the pastry with syrup, and let them 
dry in the oven for a minute. Boil the syrup in which the gages 
were cooked till it is thick. When cold pour a little into each tartlet 
and serve. Delicious. 

Maids of Honor. — One cupful of sour milk, 1 cupful sweet milk, 
1 tablespoonful melted butter, yolks of 4 eggs, juice and rind of 1 
lemon, and 1 small cupful of white sugar. Put both kinds of milk in 
a double boiler, or in one dish, set in another of boiling water and let 
become sufficiently heated to set the curd. Strain off the milk, rub 
the curd through a colander, stir the curd, butter, sugar, beaten eggs 
and lemon all together. Line patty pans with rich paste, and fill with 
the mixture. Bake until firm in the centre, which will take from 10 
to 15 minutes. 

Cheese Cakes. — Take 1 cup of curd, made by straining loppered 
milk through a cheese-cloth, having first brought the milk to blood 
heat ; mix with a tablespoonful of butter, half a cupful of sugar, the 
yolks of 2 eggs and a cupful of sweet cream. Mix over the fire until 
it thickens up, then flavor with lemon or rose, and when cool fill 
little pans lined with rich pastry, as for tarts. 

Cocoaniit Cheese Cakes. — Make as above, with the addition of a 
small cupful of desiccated cocoanut in the filling. 








Make cake by a reliable recipe and 
follow it closely. Sift the flour before mea- 
suring, again with the baking powder, and 
the same with cream of tartar. In measur- 
ing a half spoon, fill level full, smoothing 
y.'y' off with a knife ; then lengthwise, so as to 

have it exact. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, and add yolks of 
eggs, beating thoroughly. Beat the egg whites separately, adding 
after all the flour is stirred in. Fruit, for all nice cakes, should be 
picked, washed and dried, the day before making. Dust with flour 
before using, and mix with the hand till each is powdered, so that 
they will mix evenly through the dough. Any fruit or nuts not 
floured will sink to the bottom. The recipe usually gives the time, 
if long beating is required. Some plain tea-cakes and gingerbread 
can be made quickly. Line pans with buttered paper; several thick- 
nesses for large cakes. The oven should be just right for the parti- 
cular kind of cake you are baking. Layer cakes, sponge, and most 
small cakes need a quick oven. Rich cakes must bake slowly. 

Always test the oven. If the hand can bear the heat 20 or 25 
seconds, it is in good order. Layer cakes take 20 minutes each to 
bake. Loaf cakes froman hour and a quarter to three hours, accord- 
ing to size and kind. To measure accurately a teaspoonful of dry 
material, take up a heaping spoonful of sifted material and shake it 
lightly until it is rounded above the surface enough to correspond 
exactly with the concave surface. An even or scant teaspoonful 
means a spoon filled lightly, and leveled with a knife to the surface 
of the spoon, while a heaping spoonful means all the spoon will hold 
of any sifted material. In using solids, especially butter or lard, a 
knife should be employed to deftly even off the superfluous amount. 
An " even " cupful of any thing means a cup full to the brim, so full 
that only the steadiest hand can carry it without spilling. A " brim- 
ming" cupful, as its name indicates, is a cup running over. A scant 
cupful lacks a qiarter or half inch of reaching the top of the measure, 
while a solid cupful is something packed as firmly as possible. 
364 



CAKES. 365 

Do not measure the butter loosely, but pack it in solid, and have 
exact measure' ; unless the rule calls for a heaping cup of flour or sugar, 
take a knife and draw across the top of the cup, leaving it level full. 
A tablespoonful of melted butter means a tablespoonful of butter after 
melting, while a tablespoonful of butter melted, means a tablespoonful 
measured before melting. Sugar, salt, flour, soda, spices, and mustard, 
should always be sifted or stirred up lightly before measuring, as when 
packed they are compressed to much less than their rightful bulk. 

Grease the cake tins with fresh lard (for cake made with butter — 
with butter if for sponge cake) ; dredge over a little flour, and then 
shake off all that will come off It is only rich cakes that require 
the tins in which they are baked to be lined with buttered paper. Be 
careful not only to butter the paper to prevent it from adhering to the 
cake, but also to butter the tin to prevent the paper from sticking to 
it. An earthen basin is best for beating eggs or cake mixture. Cake 
should be beaten with a wooden spoon. A wooden spoon is about 
the best, as the handle will not bend like a metal one. It takes a 
great deal of strength for the final beating, but unless it is given the 
texture of the cake will be coarse. All loaf cakes should be baked 
in square tins rather than round, and the mixture should not reach 
the top by about three-fourths of an inch, to allow for raising. 

The temperature of the oven is a very important factor. It should 
not be too hot at first, or the outside will bake so much sooner than 
the inside, as to spoil the cake. Neither should it be too cold, or 
the cake will fall at once. If water dropped on the bottom hisses, it 
is hot enough for baking. If the cake shows a ten- 
dency to brown too quickly on the top, cover it with 
a sheet of brown paper; if, on the contrary, the 
bottom cooks too rapidly, set the oven grate beneath 
it. H.ive the fire steady, and do not shake the 
stove or open the oven any oftener than is neces- 
sary. If sponge cake is mixed with cold water it 
will be yellow, but if boiling hot water be used for 
mixing, the cake will be white. At any time when Sugar Box. 
the cook requires the white of an egg and not the yolk, break the 
shell carefully and drop the untouched yolk into a cup of cold water. 
Here it will keep for several days if necessary, to be used when re- 
quired. To make whites cf eggs be-.t quickly, put in a small pinch 




366 CAKES. 

of salt. When making cake in warm weather, place the eggs in cold 
water a few minutes before you beat them. This simple hint causes 
eggs to froth well on the hottest day. 

The only secret of good cake is fine-grained sugar, and a thorough 
mixing of ingredients. With sour milk or molasses use soda instead 
of baking powder. In cooking it is well to remember that soda 
should never be dissolved in hot water, because if it is some of the 
gases would then be liberated and wasted, and a greater amount of 
soda would be needed to make good this waste than if the soda were 
dissolved in cold water. Cakes calling for milk can be made with 
the same amount of water, with better success. The cake will be 
lighter and more spongy. If the molasses and butter to be used 
in gingerbread be heated together to almost the boiling point, before 
being stirred in with the other ingredients, the cake will be improved. 
Heat the knife before cutting warm bread or cake. To test nutmegs, 
prick with a pin, and if they are good the oil will instantly spread 
around the puncture. If desired to ice a loaf cake, it is better to leave 
it till the next day, and then apply to the bottom instead of the top. 

When a cake tin is lined with paper, it is well to know how to re- 
move the paper from the cake, when cooked, without damaging its 
appearance. Turn the cake from the tin on to a sieve, and when it 
has partly cooled turn the cake bottom upwards, and brush the 
paper with chilled water till it is thoroughly damp, when the paper 
can easily be peeled off. If, after a cake has been baked, it persists in 
sticking to the bottom of the pan, don't despair. Merely turn the 
pan upside down and press close to it a very wet cloth. This will 
bring the cake out in a hurry. A dish of water placed in a hot oven 
where pies, cakes or puddings are being baked, will prevent them 
from scorching. Shake and jar a tin after the cake batter is in. This 
expels the bubbles of air, and lessens the danger of falling. A cake 
pan with a tube bakes a large loaf of cake more uniformly. Cake 
tins should be gently warmed in cold weather before the cake batter 
is put in. Yolks of eggs, when not used in cakes, may be utilized in 
various ways, such as salad dressings, and also in gold cake. Butter 
that is too salt should be washed in cold water two or three times 
before using it in cake. Cake materials should be gotten together in 
cold weather some time before they are to be used, and kept in a 
warm place that they may be mixed more easily. 



CAKES. 367 

Substitute for Brandy. — As a substitute for brandy or wine in 
dark fruit cake, the same amount of clear, very strong coffee or boiled 
sweet cider can be used. Coffee is really preferable. The same 
amount of rosewater, or lemon juice, or ] or 2 extra egg yolks will 
take the place of wine. 

Testing- the Cake. — Most cooks test a cake with a broom splint ; 
put it in quickly, and if it comes out dry and clean the cake is done. 
If cleanliness is desirable, however, it might be suggested that a very 
good plan is to keep a knitting needle in the kitchen-table drawer for 
testing cakes. A surer way of testing cake in the oven is to draw it 
to the edge of the oven, and put the ear close to it, and when it is 
not sufficiently baked a slight sputtering noise will be heard, but when 
thoroughly done there will be no sound. 

To Sweeten Butter. — If you have butter that is not entirely 
sweet, put it in a porcelain dish, with a little salt and a tiny piece of 
soda, place over a fire and bring to a boil. Turn it into a stone jar 
and set it in a cool place. The butter will be found perfectly sweet 
and not too salt for cooking. The impurities will settle in the bottom 
of the jar. 

To Keep Fruit Cake Fresh. — The secret of keeping any fruit 
cake fresh and nice for over a year is to wrap the loaves in a well- 
buttered white paper, and tie them up, and place in a stone jar and 
cover. Once in a while it is a good plan to open the jar and leave un- 
covered for 5 or 10 minutes. Fruit cake, if it is to be kept any length 
of time before eating — and a good fruit cake is always improved by 
so doing — should be iced as it is needed. A couple of apples or a 
slice of moist bread put in cake-box will keep cake from getting dry. 

Fruits for Oakes. 

A very good way to stone raisins is to have a glass of cold water 
beside one. Dip the fingers into it, and the seed will easily drop 
off from them. Or, have a dish of flour near at hand and dip the 
fingers into it often. It will prevent the seeds from sticking to one's 
fingers. To make raisins stone more easily, take them from the stems, 
put in a bowl, pour boiling water over, let stand 2 or 3 minutes and 
drain. The raisins will then seed very readily. Raisins for cake 
may be boiled half an hour in a little water, dried in the oven. This 
will prevent their being tough and tearing the cake in cutting. 



368 CAKES. 

Watcniuio)i Rinds make an excellent substitute for citron. Cook 
rich and thick with plenty of sugar and can. When ready to use, 
take out a little, dry in oven and add to cake, pudding or pie. Dates 
are usually less expensive than raisins, but housekeepers seem seldom 
to appreciate their value as a substitute for the latter. A box of 
dates, if put in a cool, dry place, will keep well, and assist greatly in 
varying the list of cakes, puddings, and the like. Even a single 
pound of the article will give its rich, distinctive flavor to several com- 
pounds that, were raisins used, would be comparatively commonplace. 

Almonds' to Blanch. — Turn boiling water over them. Let stand 
a few minutes, then drain and plunge in cold water. The skins will 
then come off easily. If not, repeat the operation. Rub the .skins 
off with a dry cloth. Put on a paper in the open oven to dr}'. If 
they are to be rubbed to a paste, rub tiiem in a mortar with a little 
rosewater to prevent oiling, a little loaf sugar, 1 lump to 3 or 4 
almonds may be used for the same purpose. Lemons may be kept 
fresh by putting in a jar of cold water. Change the water frequently. 

Home-made Flavoring Extracts. 

The common essence of orange, lemon and vanilla of superior 
quality can be easily and inexpensively made. It is best to make a 
year's supply at once. Orange essences should be prepared when 
the sweet, red-skinned Valencia orange is abundant. Take the outer 
red orange skin of this fruit and scrape off any of the inner white 
skin that may adhere. Cut the orange skin into strips. Put it in a 
quart bottle and cover it with common good alcohol, or what is 
known to chemists as " 90 per cent, alcohol." Fill up the bottle with 
peel and alcohol, as convenient, till it is full, and cork it tightly. Put 
the bottles thus filled on a high shelf in the kitchen, or in some 
equally warm place, for at least six months — that is, let it alone. At 
the end of this time strain off a tablespoonful or more, flavor as it is 
needed. It will be better at the end of a year, and will keep indefinitely. 

Make lemon extract, in exactly the same way, from the peel of 
the thin-skinned Messina lemons. The thick-skinned Malaga lemons 
are of no use for this purpose. Never use the juice of the lemon or 
orange in these essences. Another way is to grate off the yellow 
part or " zest," and put this in a glass can or bottle and cover with 
alcohol. Let stand a couple of weeks and then strain. A fine ex- 



CAKES. 



369 



tract is secured in this way. A word as to proportions — for the skin 
of 10 oranges,. carefully grated, a quart of alcohol will be needed. 
Be very careful that only the yellow part of the rind is grated off, as 
the inner skin is worse than useless. If necessary add half ounce of 
oil of orange or lemon, as the case may be. 

The best vanilla essence is made of the genuine vanilla bean, a 
costly article, and therefore the tonka bean is frequently substituted 
for it. From half to three-quarters of a pound of beans should be 
cut in fine pieces and put in a quart bottle of alcohol of the 90 per 
cent, quality for essence. This bottle should be left from seven 
months to a year before its contents are ready for use. Or half pint 
of alcohol and 4 vanilla beans broken in bits. Let stand a week or so. 

Table of Proportions. 

One teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses; 1 teaspoonful soda to 
1 pint sour milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder 
to 1 quart flour ; one-half cupful yeast or one- 
quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 pint liquid ; 
1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 tea- 
spoonful salt to 2 quarts flour ; 1 teaspoonful salt 
to 1 quart soup ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 
full cupfuls of flour for bread ; 1 scant cupful of 
liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins; 1 scant 
cupful of liquid to 1 full cupful of flour for bat- 
ters ; 1 quart water to each pound meat and bone 
for soup stock ; 4 peppercorns, 4 cloves, 1 tea- 
spoonful of mixed herbs for each quart of water 
for soup stock. 

Time Table for Baking. 

Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes ; bread, brick 
loaf, 40 to 60 minutes ; cake, plain, 20 to 40 
minutes ; cake, sponge, 45 to 60 minutes ; 
chickens, 3 to 4 pounds, 1 to 1 ^ hours ; 
cookies, 10 to 15 minutes; gingerbread, 20 
to 30 minutes ; Graham gems, 30 minutes ; 
pudding, bread, rice and tapioca, 1 hour; 
pudding, plum, 2 to 3 hours; rolls, 10 to 15 
minutes. 
24 




Measuring- Glass. 




Graduated Measure. 



370 



CAKES. 



Tables of Weights and Measures. 



Sixty drops of any thin liquid are 
equal to i teaspoonful, or i drachm. 

Two teaspoonfuls to i dessertspoon- 
ful. 

Four teaspoonfuls of liquid equal 
I tablespoonful. 

P'our tablespoonfuls of liquid equal 
one-half gill. 

Four tablespoonfuls of liquid equal 
I wineglassful. 

One tablespoonful of liquid equals 
one-half ounce. 

Four even teaspoonfuls liquid equal 
I even tablespoonful. 

A medium-sized teaspoon contains 
about a drachm. 

Sixteen tablespoonfuls liquid equal 
I cupful. 

One pint of liquid equals i pound. 

Two gills of liquid equal one-half pint 

One kitchen cupful equals one-half 
pint. 

Three even teaspoonfuls dry material 
equal i even tablespoonful. 

Twelve tablespoonfuls dry material 
equal i cupful. 

Two cupfuls equal i pint. 

Four cupfuls equal i quart. 

Four cupfuls flour equal i quart or i 
pound. 

Two cupfuls solid butter equal i 
pound. 

Two cupfuls granulated sugar equal 
I pound. 

Two and a half cupfuls powdered 
sugar equal i pound. 

One pint milk or water equals i 
pound. 

One dozen eggs should weigh lyi 
pounds. 

One quart of sifted flour equals i 
pound. 

Four cupfuls of flour equal i pound. 

One tablespoonful of flour equals 
one-half ounce. 

Three cupfuls of cornmeal equal i 
pound. 

One and one-half pints of cornmeal 
equal one pound. 

One cupful of butter equals one-fialf 
pound. 

One tablespoonful of butter equals i 
ounce. 



One pint of butter equals i pound. 
One pint of chopped suet equals i 
pound. 

Ten eggs equal i pound. 

One pint of granulated sugar equals 

1 pound. 

One pint of brown sugar equals 13 
ounces. 

Two and one-half cupfuls of pow- 
dered sugar equal i pound. 

Sixteen drams equal i ounce. 

Sixteen ounces equal 1 pound. 

Butter size of an egg, 2 ounces. 

One kitchen cup, half pint. 

One pound loaf sugar (broken) to i 
quart. 

Twelve small eggs without the shells 
weigh I pound. 

Ten medium eggs without the shells 
weigh I pound. 

Nine large eggs without the shells 
weigh I pound. 

An ordinary egg weighs fiom 1% to 

2 ounces. 

A duck's egg weighs from 2 to 3 
ounces. 

A turkey's e^^ weighs from three to 
four ounces. 

A goose egg weighs from 4 to 6 
ounces. 

Two ounces unmelted butter equal 
in size an ordinary egg. 

Two tablespoons liquid weigh i 
ounce. 

Two heaping tablespoons powdered 
sugar weigh i ounce. 

Two heaping tablespoons granulated 
sugar weigh i ounce. 

Two rounded tablespoons of flour 
weigh I ounce. 

Sugar, flour, butter, lard, drippings, 
currants, raisins, rice and cornstarch are 
measured by the rounding spoonful. 

Salt, pepper and spices by the level 
spoonful. 

Skim milk is heavier than whole 
milk and cream is lighter than either, 
while pure milk is 3 per cent, heavier 
than water. 

Spices. — Two saltspoonfuls make i 
after-dinner coffeespoon ; 2 roffeespoon- 
fuls make i teaspoonful ; a dash of pep- 
per equals quarter saltspoonfiil. 



CAKES. 371 



Frostings. 



Flour lightly dredged over a loaf of cake before icing it prevents 
the spreading and running off of the latter. Cake should be nearly, 
if not quite cold, before attempting to frost it. One teaspoonful of 
lemon juice will help keep frosting from crumbling. A teaspoonful 
of cream also has a softening effect. To tint frosting, lemon juice 
will whiten it, the grated rind of an orange strained through a cloth 
will give it a yellow tint, and strawberry or cranberry juice will pro- 
duce a pretty shade of pink. Heavy frosting is secured by letting 
one coating dry and then applying another. 

Ornamental Frosting can be done by drawing one of the small 
glass syringes full of the icing and arrange it in any design you like. 
Another way is to fill a cone of thick white paper and let the icing 
run through, but it is not as successful as the other way. First, give 
the cake a coating of stiff frosting. Smooth the top carefully and 
set in the oven for a few minutes. For the ornamental figures beat 
the white of an &^^ to a stiff froth, and stir in powdered sugar until 
quite stiff, but not so stiff as the first frosting. Cut out designs in 
paper and outline them on the top of the cake by pricking the frost- 
ing with a large needle. If the design is elaborate make three cornu- 
copias of writing paper, cut off the small ends, leaving room to press 
the frosting through. Graduate the size of the three apertures. Fill 
the three cornucopias with the frosting, fold the paper over the top 
and use the thumbs to press the frosting through the lower opening. 
If it does not keep its shape, the frosting is not thick enough, and 
more sugar must be added. Use the cornucopia with the largest 
opening for the largest part of the pattern. 

Cocliineal Coloring-. — One drachm of cream tartar, 1 drachm 
saleratus, 1 drachm of alum, 1 drachm cochineal. Mix in two-thirds 
of a cup of boiling water. Bottle and cork for use. Make the 
wished- for shade by using more or less of the preparation. A por- 
tion of the cake batter may be colored to suit and arranged in alter- 
nate layers. Red sugar may also be used for this purpose. 

Frosting-. — Beat the white of 1 o.^^ till it is very dry, then add 
gradually 10 ounces of pulverized white sugar. Dredge flour over 
the top of the cake and wipe it off, to make the frosting adhere. Put 
it over with a broad-bladed knife ; it should be put on quite tliick. 



372 CAKES. 

When this coating is dry, dilute the remainder in your dish with a 
Httle rose water and put another coating over the top, which will have 
a glossy appearance. If the first coating of frosting is inclined to 
" run," put a rim of stiff paper around the sides of the loaf to retain 
it in place until it hardens. A teaspoonful of cornstarch is some- 
times added, but it makes the frosting liable to crumble. 

Yellow Frosting-. — For one loaf of cake use the yolks of 2 eggs 
and without previously beating thicken them with powdered sugar, 
quite stiff, and apply while cake is hot. The rule for quantity of 
sugar cannot be determined, as some eggs are larger than others. 
Flavor with orange. 

Pink Frosting-. — Make a white frosting and give the desired 
shade of pink by adding a drop or two of cochineal color. Some 
cooks use one-half of a teaspoonful of the aniline to be bought at the 
drug stores. The three shades, white, pink and yellow, are very 
pretty in a ribbon cake. One other shade may be given by using 
chocolate frosting also. 

Cocoauiit Frosting-. — Stir a quantity of cocoanut, fresh grated, 
or desiccated, into ordinary white frosting. 

Confectioners' Frosting. — Beat the white of 1 egg an instant, 
then stir in the sugar till about the consistency of Indian meal pud- 
ding or mush ; flavor with anything liked. A little strawberry may 
be added to make it pink, or grate a little chocolate in ; when the 
cake is cold, or nearly so, spread on the frosting with a broad, thin- 
bladed knife ; if there is not a sufficient quantity of sugar the frost- 
ing will run. 

Boiled Frosting-. — One cupful of white sugar boiled with one- 
half cup of water until it will wax when dropped into cold water. 
Pour this over the well-beaten white of 1 egg. Stir briskly until it is 
cool enough to thicken. After the top of the cake has been covered, 
stir in a little fine dry sugar before frosting the sides. The cake 
should be cold. Put in the oven a moment to dry. 

Soft Icing-. — Ten tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, whites of 2 
eggs. Flavor with vanilla or rose. Mix the sugar and egg together 
in a bowl by merely stirring. Spread this semi-transparent mixture 
over the cake. Put a rim of paper around the cake to keep the frost- 
ing in place until dry. Icing is more tender made in this wry than 
when the whites are beaten first. 



CAKES. 373 

Boiled Icing". — One and one-half cups powdered sugar, one -half 
cup water, come to a boil, and boil a few minutes until it drops heavy 
and forms threads ; then pour on the whites of 2 eggs. Add extract 
of orange, lemon or rose, and beat till almost cold ; spread and put 
in a jar or box for 2 days, when it will melt in your mouth. 

Lenioii Icing-. — Beat the whites of 4 eggs; whip 'mlj4 pound 
of powdered sugar, beat smooth ; add the juice of a lemon and a few 
drops of lemon extract ; beat 20 minutes ; put on the cake in large 
spoonfuls, and smooth with a knife dipped in cold water. 

Lemon Icing, Eggless. — Two tablespoons of cold water, the 
strained juice of one-half a lemon. Thicken with confectioners' 
sugar and spread on cake. 

Almond Icing. — A delicious addition to a loaf of white cake. 
Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, stir in half a pound of pow- 
dered sugar and a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanched and pow- 
dered to a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, rose water or a 
few drops of almond extract. 

Coflfee Icing, Eggless. — All that is required for this excellent 
finish is half a cupful of strong coffee, into which is stirred about as 
much pulverized sugar as it will take up. Beat well and spread with 
a knife while the cake is slightly warm. 

Maple Sugar Icing, Eggless. — Put a cupful of dry maple sugar 
and -4 tablespoonfuls of sweet, thick cream on the stove, and when the 
sugar is melted let it boil until it will harden in cold water. Cool it 
a little, then spread on the cake. 

Wedding Cake Frosting. — Whites of 3 eggs and 2 pounds of 
confectioners' sugar, not powdered, for each 10-pound loaf of cake. 
Put eggs and sugar together into a deep bowl and 1 teaspoonful of 
rose water. Be sure the sugar is free from lumps, and beat with stout 
wire beater until you can turn the bowl upside down. Then spread 
on warm cake, about 1 inch thick, and dry in a cool oven. Crease 
with broad knife when partly cool, to be able to cut without breaking. 
Brush cake over with unbeaten whites before laying frosting on, so it 
will stick. Take a little of the icing and lay it aside for ornamenting 
afterward. When the cake comes out of the oven, spread smoothly 
over it with a knife and dry it at once in a cool oven. To ornament 
the cake with it, make a cone of stiff writing paper and squeeze the 
icing through it so as to form leaves, beading or letters. It requires 



374 



CAKES. 



nicety and care to do it with success. If wedding cake is to be kept 
a long time, do not frost what is laid away until ready to use. 

Delmoiiioo Wedding- Cake. — One pound of butter, 2 pounds 

of brown sugar, three- 
quarters of a pound of 
flour, 1 cupful dark mo 
lasses, 10 eggs, 1 pound 
of blanched almonds, 3 
pounds raisins, 2 pounds 
currants, 1 pound cit- 
ron, 1 pound figs, 4 
tablespoonfuls of cinna- 
mon, 2 gills rose water, 
1 tablespoonful ground 
cloves. Stone the rais- 
ins, wash and dry thor- 
oughly the currants, 
shred the citron, cut up 
the figs in small pieces 
and put all together in 
a wooden bowl and 
chop fine. Chop and 
add the almonds. Then sprinkle and rub thoroughly with an extra 
one-half pound of flour that has been browned. The cake is lightly 
put together in the usual way and the fruit put in last. Line the 
pans with thick, buttered paper and bake slowly in a moderate oven. 
Black Fruit Cake. — Three cupfuls of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar 
(brown), 8 eggs, 1 ^4 pints of browned flour, 3 cupfuls of currants, 2 
cupfuls of seeded raisins, 1 ^^ cupfuls of sliced citron, 1 cupful of 
blanched chopped almonds, one-half cupful of candied lemon-peel, 
sliced fine ; one-half cupful of candied orange-peel, sliced fine ; one- 
half cupful of rose water or black coffee (cold); 2 teaspoonfuls each 
of nutmeg and mace ; 1 teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice, 1 
teaspoonful extract of vanilla. Beat sugar and butter to a light cream, 
beat eggs to a light froth, add them to sugar and butter, beat them 
all for 10 minutes; then add the other ingredients, and mix to a 
smooth paste ; then put it into a cake pan that is lined with a white 
paper that has been greased with lard; cover the outsides and bottom 




CAKES. 375 

of baking-dish with three thicknesses of wrapping paper ; cover the 
dish before you put cake in, have oven at a moderate heat, put cake 
in, bake six hours ; when there is a hght crust on top cover the cake 
with thick wrapping paper ; be sure to keep the heat up by adding a 
shovelful of coal from time to time ; watch carefully that it does not 
bake too fast, take from the oven very gently, let sit in baking-dish 
until cold, then remove and ice it if wished. Brown the flour in a 
pan in the oven, stirring very frequently. If one kind of fruit is 
omitted, double some other kind of the fruit used, or add more flour. 

Cheap Fruit Cake. — One teacupful butter, 1 teacupful brown 
sugar, 1 teacupful molasses, 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 teaspoonful 
soda stirred in 1 teacupful sour milk, 1 pound currants, washed; 1 
pound raisins, seeded ; 4 teacupfuls sifted flour. Flavor to taste. A 
good, tested combination is 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, and 1 teaspoon- 
ful of lemon extract. If not strong, use a little more of each. Mix, 
and bake in a medium oven. 

Plum Cake. — One cup butter, 2 cups brown sugar, 3 eggs, one- 
half cup milk, one-half cup molasses, 
one-half pound raisins (seeded), one- 
half pound currants, 2 tablespoons 
quince syrup (currant jelly may be 
used), 2 tablespoons mixed spice, 2 
squares chocolate, melted ; one-half 
teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon 
cream tartar, 4 cups flour; flour the 
currants and raisins before adding to "^"^^'^ ^^^^ ^^^® ^°^^^- 
the mixture ; bake in small tins, sifting powdered sugar over the top 
of each before putting them in the oven. 

Jam Fruit Cake. — Make batter for an ordinary cup-cake, and 
add a small cupful of blackberry jam. When baked, cut in squares 
and serve without frosting. 

Cream Fruit Cake (Plain). — Two cupfuls brown sugar, 1 cup- 
ful sour cream (thick), three-quarters cupful currants, 1 teaspoonful 
soda dissolved in the cream ; 3 cupfuls flour, three-quarters cupful of 
raisins, 1 egg. 

Dried Apple Cake. — Two cups dried apples; stew just enough 
to chop, and chop about the size of raisins ; boil in 2 cups of molasses 
till preserved through; drain off the molasses; for the cake add 2 




376 CAKES. 

eggs, 1 cup butter, 1 cup sour milk, 2 teaspoons soda, 4 cups flour, 
and spices of all kinds ; add the apple the last thing. 

Nut Cake. — One-half cup of butter creamed with 1 cup of sugar, 
2 eggs (reserve one of the whites for the frosting), two-thirds of a 
cup of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 cups of flour, 1 cupful 
hickory-nut meats chopped. Beat the eggs, sift the baking powder 
with the flour and mix all together. Flour the nuts. Bake in shal- 
low square tins, so that the loaf will be about 2 inches thick. Cut in 
squares and frost, put one-half an English walnut on each square. If 
the cake is wished white, use the whites of 3 eggs instead of the 2 
whole eggs. 

Walnut Cake. — One cup of sugar, one-half cup of milk, 2 cups 
of flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon of 
soda, 1 large cup of raisins, 1 large cup of nuts chopped fine. Flour 
the raisins and nuts before putting them in cake. Frost with a boiled 
frosting, or one made of confectioners' sugar. Halves of English 
walnuts make a great addition placed in the frosting. 

Fig- Cake, Choice. — One cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 
cupful of milk, 3 eggs, 3^ cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of 
tartar, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 pound of figs. Cut the figs in thin 
strips and sprinkle with flour ; then place a layer of cake batter in 
the cake-tin, next a layer of figs, and so on, finishing with a layer of 
cake. This is an excellent cake. 

Date Cake. — Make same as the fig cake given above, substituting 
dates for the figs. This is very nice frosted with half dates put on 
the frosting. 

Election Cake. — This old-fashioned cake, dear to the hearts of 
our grandmothers, is a troublesome, but a delicious, cake. Five 
pounds of sifted flour, rubbed with 2 pounds of butter ; 2 pounds of 
sugar, 1^ pints of home-made yeast, 2 pounds raisins, 8 tablespoon- 
fuls of wine, 8 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 4 eggs, 1 quart of sweet 
milk, 2 pounds of currants, 1 pound of citron, half ounce of grated 
nutmeg. To the butter and flour add half the sugar; then the yeast 
and half the milk. Lukewarm in summer; hot in winter. Then the 
eggs beaten ; then the remainder of the milk and wine. Beat well, 
and let rise in a warm place all night. In the morning beat some 
tinie, adding the brandy, sugar, spice and fruit (well floured), and let 
rise again very light. After which put in cake pans, and let rise 10 



CAKES. 377 

or 15 minutes. Have the oven about as hot as for bread. This cake 
will keep any length of time. Potato yeast is good to use. Tem- 
perance people can use 2 extra eggs and 2 wine glasses of rosewater 
to take the place of the liquor with as good or better results. 

Chocolate Loaf Cake. — One cup sugar, 2 eggs, one-third cup but- 
ter, half cup milk, 1 cup flour, 1^ teaspoons baking powder, half cup 
dissolved chocolate, half teaspoon salt. Cream the butter and sugar 
together, add the beaten yolks of eggs, milk, flour (in which the 
baking powder has been well mixed), the whites of the eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth, and last the chocolate. I grate mine and place the 
cup in a dish of hot water. When cool frost with the following : 
One cup sugar, half cup milk, small pinch cream tartar; boil about 8 
minutes, and stir until stiff enough to spread ; flavor if desired. 
Chocolate caramel frosting may be used if the cake is wished very 
dark. Yellow frosting is also nice. Bake in a square tin and cut in 
squares. It is very pretty mixed with white cake. 

Cliocolate Marble Cake. — White Part : One-half cup of white 
sugar, one-fourth cup butter, whites of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of 
sweet milk, 1 large cup flour, one-half cup cocoanut, one heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder, seasoning as preferred. 

Dark Part: One-half cup brown sugar, one-fourth cup molasses, 
one-fourth cup butter, yolks of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of sour milk, 1 
scant teaspoon soda, 1 cup flour, one-half cup grated chocolate. Va- 
nilla. Put a layer of the white batter in the pan, drop the chocolate 
batter in places, then pour on the rest of the white batter. 

Hot-water Spoug-e Cake. — One and a half cups of powdered 
sugar, or 1^ cups of granulated. Four eggs, 2 small teaspoons 
baking powder, 4 tablespoons boiling water, and a pinch of salt. 
Cream yolks and sugar thoroughly, then add beaten whites and flour. 
Stir thoroughly, and then stir in the boiling water. This is a favorite 
recipe, economical and delicious. 

Cream Spoag-e Cake, — One cup of sugar, 3 eggs, two-thirds of 
a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful baking powder and Ij^ cups of 
flour. Any flavoring preferred. 

Spong-e Cake, Small Sheet. — One cup of powdered sugar, 8 eggs, 
1 scant cup of sifted flour, a bit of salt, little nutmeg or juice of part 
of a lemon ; beat the eggs very light; add the sugar and flavoring. 
Bake immediately. 



378 CAKES. 

Ang-el Food. — The recipe herewith given is warranted to be the 
best, and challenges competition. Beat very stiff and dry 10 whites 
of eggs (one-half pint) ; sift together twice, one-half pound of pow- 
dered sugar, 5 ounces of pastry flour, 1 even teaspoonful of cream 
tartar; add all this to the eggs, stirring very gently with wooden 
spatula; sprinkle one-half teaspoonful of vanilla powder to it, and fill 
in the regular angel food tins. Soak these moulds in cold water 
always before using; fill while wet (just rinse them out), and when 
baked turn moulds upside down. Never grease or line the moulds 
with paper; just have them wet, and the cakes will fall out when 
cold, as white as snow, all the crust sticking to the mould. Frost very 
thin, and give icing a very delicate flavor, or just a little lemon juice. 

Angel Food Frosting. — One and one-half cups of confectionery 
sugar; add a gill of sweet milk, beat it well ; put it on with a silver 
knife; when the cake is half cool, then crease for slices. 

Corn Starch Cake. — Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter mixed 
together; 1 cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, 1 cup of corn- 
starch, and 2 cups of flour, and 1 teaspoon of cream tartar; whites of 
5 eggs, beaten. Be sure to sift the flour, cornstarch, and cream of 
tartar together. A white frosting, or a chocolate frosting, or a yellow 
frosting can be used with it. 

liily Cake. — One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter beaten to a 
cream ; half a cup of sweet milk, half a cup of cornstarch, a cup and 
a half of flour, and a teaspoon and a half of baking powder. Last of 
all, add the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth. Flavor to suit the 
taste. Yellow frosting, and orange extract for flavoring, make the 
cake very nice. 

Delicate Cake. — Six whites of eggs, 2 cupfuls of sugar creamed 
with one-half cupful of butter ; add three-quarters cupful of sweet 
milk or water, and 3 cupfuls of flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful of 
cream tartar, and one-half teaspoonful of soda. Flavor to suit. Add 
the whites of eggs to the butter and sugar, and then the other ingre- 
dients. Use any preferred frosting, or none at all. 

L-ady Cake. — One cup of powdered sugar, and half a cup of 
butter, beaten to a cream. Add the stiffly beaten whites of 5 eggs, 
2 cups of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in it, one- 
half cupful of water, and a teaspoonful of almond extract. Bake in a 
shallow tin, and when cool ice the top, and cut in small squares. 



CAKES. 379 

Almond Cake. — Two cups of powdered sugar, one-half cup 
butter, one cup of milk, 2^^ cups of flour, one teaspoon of baking- 
powder, the beaten whites of 5 eggs, 1 pound of finely chopped 
almonds. If the beauty of the cake is not considered, 3 whole eggs 
may be used. Where whites only are used, a yellow frosting is a 
good idea. 

Tutti Frutti Frosting. — Nice for this, or any other white cake, 
is as follows : Yolks of 3 eggs, beaten thick ; 18 teaspoons of pow- 
dered sugar, one-half cup citron cut fine, or of chopped raisins instead, 
or both ; flavor with vanilla ; put the frosting on the cake in the pan 
while hot, and harden in a cool oven. 

Pound Cake. — Beat the whites of 12 eggs to a stiff froth. The 
yolks beat until they look light and white ; then beat in 1 pound of 
sugar; next, beat in the whites; cream a light pound of butter until 
it looks frothy ; then sift in, by degrees, 1 pound of flour, and cream 
them together, and add the other mixture. Put in a little powdered 
mace, if you like, a wineglass of wine, or the same of brandy. 

Spiced Raisin Cake. — One scant cup of butter, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of chopped raisins, 3 eggs, 4 cups of 
flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, one- 
half teaspoon of cloves, 1 nutmeg grated. 

Cofltee Cake. — One cupful of butter and lard (half and half) ; one 
cupful of brown sugar, 1 cupful of common molasses, 1 cupful of cold 
coffee, 1 teaspoonful of soda (or 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder) ; 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 even tablespoonful of ginger, 
cinnamon, and cloves ; or spice to taste; and from 3^ to 4 cupfuls of 
sifted flour. Bake in a moderate oven. 1 cupful raisins improve it. 

Orang-e Cake. — Yolks of 5 eggs, whites of 4 ; 2 cupfuls of sugar; 
one-half cupful of water; 1 orange, grated rind and juice; 2 cupfuls 
flour, three-quarters cupful butter, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking pow- 
der. Frost with the following frosting: White of 1 &^^, 1 cupful 
white sugar, half the juice and grated rind of 1 orange. 

Lemon Cake. — One cupful butter, 2^/^ cupfuls sugar; 3 eggs, 
beaten separately ; 4 cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful soda dissolved 
in two thirds cupful of milk; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. No 
cream of tartar is used, the lemon juice furnishing the required 
acid. Mix butter and sugar ; add the beaten yolks, then the milk, 
then the flour and lemon ; lastly, the beaten whites of the eggs. 



'A60 CAKES. 

Frosting. — White of 1 egg (this can be reserved from the cake), 
9 teaspoonfuls white sugar, 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, 1 teaspoonful 
lemon-juice. 

Lioaf Cake. — Two cupfuls of light dough, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 
cupful of butter, 1 cupful of cream, 2 eggs, one-half teaspoonful of 
soda, 1 cupful of raisins, 1 cupful of currants, 1 teaspoonful each of 
ground cinnamon and mace, and a grated nutmeg. Work well to- 
gether, and add sufficient flour to make it stiff. Shape in loaves, put 
into pans, raise, and bake slowly. 

1-2-3-4 Cake. — One cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 cups of 
flour, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar and half teaspoon of soda, 
or 1 teaspoon of baking powder, nutmeg and extract of lemon. This 
makes a sheet or loaf 

Layer Cake. 

Marslimallow Cake. — Whites of 18 eggs, 2^ cupfuls powdered 
sugar, 1^ cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls cream tartar, 1 teaspoonful 
vanilla. Beat the eggs very lightly, then cut the sugar in with a 
broad-bladed knife. Sift the flour three times with the cream of tar- 
tar, then cut it into the eggs and sugar, beat and add the vanilla. 
Bake in three cakes in deep, new, unbuttered layer-pans. Put white 
or brown paper in the bottom of the tins, and use a quick oven. 
Spread thickly between the layers and on top, a filling made as fol- 
lows : Ma7'shinalloiv Filling. — Boil 2 cupfuls of sugar with 1 cupful 
of water until it threads. Just before taking it off the fire jnit in one- 
half pound of marshmallows, broken in bits to melt more easily. 
Pour this mixture gradually into the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs, 
and beat continuously until cold. 

Devil's Food. — Two cupfuls bro^vn sugar, creamed with half cup- 
ful butter; 3 eggs, 1 cupful water, 2^^ cupfuls flour before sifting, 2 
teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice, 
cinnamon; half teaspoon black pepper; half a nutmeg, grated; use a 
dark chocolate frosting. Boil 2 teacupfuls of raisins soft, seed and 
chop fine. Put between the layers on the frosting. 

Cbooolate Cream Cake. — One cup of butter, 2 of sugar, 3 of 
flour, 1 of milk, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, 
4 eggs. Dissolve the soda in the milk, adding it the last thing before 
baking. This will make 2 cakes of 3 layers each. Put together 
with chocolate cream filling already given, or with the following: 



CAKES. 



381 



Chocolate Cream Filling. — Grate one-half pound of chocolate, 
pour on it one-half pint of boiling milk, stir well, and add 1 egg, beaten 
with a cup of sugar. Flavor with vanilla. When both cake and fill- 
ing are cold put the filling between the layers of cake. If it is desired 
to frost the top of the cake, use the following : Frosting. — White of 1 
^SS» 1 ^^P ^^ powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of melted chocolate, quarter 
teaspoon of vanilla. 

Chocolate Layer Cake. — Two- thirds cup of grated chocolate, 
half cup of sweet milk, yolk of 1 o.^^ 
beaten. Cook this enough to mix thor- 
oughly, and while warm add butter the 
size of a butternut and cool. Then add 
half cup sweet milk, 1 cup sugar, 1^ cups 
flour, Xyi teaspoons of baking powder. 
Flavor with vanilla and bake in layers. 

Filling and Icing. — Put a cup of gran- 
ulated sugar over the fire, with enough 
cold water to cover ; boil until it strings ; 
stir in 4 ounces of chocolate, melted as 
above, and the whites of 2 eggs, beaten 
light; remove from the fire and beat until 
ahnost cold. 

Chocolate Caramel Cake. — One and a half cupfuls of white 
sugar, creamed with half cupful butter, two-thirds cupful water, yolks 
of 3 eggs or 2 whole eggs ; 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, sifted 
with 3 cupfuls of flour. Bake in layers, and put together with the 
following Caramel : 

Caramel. — Half pound of sugar, 2 squares of chocolate (Baker's), 
1 teaspoonful butter, half cupful water or milk. Set the dish in 
boiling milk, and stir until thick enough, spread. Set the cake in the 
oven to dry for a few minutes. 

Ice Cream Cake. — Half cupful butter, 1 ^ cupfuls sugar, 2 cup- 
fuls flour, half cupful milk, whites of 5 eggs, 2 level teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, half teaspoonful vanilla extract. Beat the butter to 
a cream, and gradually beat into it the sugar and then the vanilla. 
Now add the milk and also the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth. Finally stir in the flour and baking powder mixed together. 
Pour this batter into shallow cake pans that have been well buttered, 




382 CAKES. 

and bake in a moderate oven for 25 or 30 minutes. When cool, ice. 
The icing is to be made after the rule given for Ice Cream Filling. 
Put on the filling thick as possible. It makes a delicious cake. 

Banana Layer Cake. — Make any preferred layer cake. Put to- 
gether with either of the banana fillings given before, or simply ice 
the layers with a soft icing, and cover thickly with sliced bananas. 
Filling : Slice up some bananas and stir them through a cup of rich 
cream. It is very delicate and rich. 

Oraug-e Jelly Cake. — Three eggs, one-half cupful of butter, 2 
cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 2^ cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls 
of Royal baking powder ; bake in jelly pans. 

Jelly for Cake. — Take 2 good oranges, grate a part of the rind 
of 1, then peel and grate them all, remove the seeds and add 1 cup- 
ful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, and scald in a tin set in a kettle 
of hot water. Take 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mix smooth with 
a {&\N spoonfuls of cold water, and stir into the orange enough to 
soak the cornstarch. When quite cold beat the whites of 2 eggs 
and add powdered sugar for frosting. Leave out a little of this for 
the top of the cake, and stir the rest into the orange, and you will 
have a jelly that will not run off or soak into the cake. 

Oraug-e Layer Cake. — Half cupful of butter creamed with 2 cup- 
fuls sugar, add the juice of 1^ oranges and the yellow rind of 1 
orange, grated. Stir in one, at a time, the yolks of 4 eggs. Dis- 
solve half a teaspoonful of soda in half a cup of water, and add it to 
the other ingredients. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff and stir into 
the cake with 2 cups of flour, in which a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar has been sifted. Bake in layers, and when cool frost each one 
and place them one over the other. When the third layer is frosted, 
and before it hardens, lay small quarters of orange around the edge. 

Frosting. — The white of 1 large &<g^ beaten stiff, add 1 cup 
of powdered sugar, then the juice o( 1)4 oranges, the grated rind of 
1 orange and powdered sugar enough to make it spread nicely. 

Lemon Layer Cake. — One cupful of butter, 3 cupfuls powdered 
sugar, yolks of 5 eggs. Stir to a cream. Juice and grated yellow 
rind of 1 lemon, 3 cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful soda dissolved 
in 1 cupful milk. No cream of tartar; the lemon supplies the acid. 
Add the beaten whites of 4 eggs last. Bake in two layers and put 
together with the following icing : Reserve 1 white of egg from the 



CAKES. 383 

cake, add to it 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch, 9 of white sugar, and 1 
of lemon juice; put between the layers and over the top. This is 
good baked in a loaf and frosted. 

Lemou Jelly Cake. — One cup of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 
1 egg, 1 cup of milk, 2^ cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. Bake in three layers and put together with lemon jelly 
made as follows : Jelly. — Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup of 
sugar, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 egg, butter size of a walnut, and 
one half cup of water. Boil until the consistency of cornstarch. 

Cocoanut Layer Cake. — Three-quarters of a cupful of butter 
creamed with 2 cupfuls white sugar, 1 cupful sweet milk, 4 eggs, 
whites and yolks separately beaten, the yolks added first to the but- 
ter and sugar, then the whites ; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Sift 3 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder in 3 cupfuls sifted flour and add last. 
Bake in jelly tins. Filling: Whites of 3 eggs and 1 cupful powdered 
sugar beaten to a froth. When the cake is cold spread a thick layer 
over each cake and sprinkle thickly with grated cocoanut. If the 
prepared cocoanut is used, moisten it with milk before using. 

Cocoanut and Almond Layer Cake. — Two and one-half cupfuls 
powdered sugar creamed with 1 cupful butter, 4 cupfuls sifted flour, 
whites of 7 eggs beaten stiff, 1 teacupful milk, one-half teaspoonful 
soda, juice of 1 lemon, no cream of tartar, the lemon will supply the 
acid, 1 grated cocoanut, or 1 cupful desiccated cocoanut moistened in 
a little milk. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and sugar, add the 
milk and the egg whites and flour alternately. Lastly stir in the 
grated cocoanut swiftly and lightly. Bake in four jelly-cake tins. 
Filling : One pound sweet almonds, whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, 1 
heaping cupful powdered sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls rose water. Blanch 
the almonds and rub to a paste, adding the rose water a little at a 
time. Save out a couple of dozen to shred for the top. Stir this 
paste into the icing after it is made. Spread between the cooled 
cakes. Stir a little more sugar in that meant for the top, and when it 
is partly cool stick the shredded almonds closely over it. Put in the 
oven to harden. Do not let it scorch. 

Sponge Cream Cake. — Two eggs and three-fourths of a cup of 
granulated sugar beaten together very light. Add 5 tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water (be sure the water is boiling) as quickly as possible, 
beat slightly, then add a cup of flour sifted twice, with a teaspoonful 



384 CAKES. 

baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt. Flavor slightly with lemon 
or vanilla or nutmeg. Beat until the flour is absorbed, no longer. 
Bake in 2 jelly cake pans 12 minutes in a quick oven. The batter is 
so thin the whole process of mixing can be done with the egg-beater. 
Whip 1 cup of cream stiff, sweeten with pulverized sugar, adding it a 
spoonful at a time while you are beating until you have it sweet 
enough. Flavor to taste. Put part of it on the bottom of one cake, 
lay the other cake on with the top up and put the remainder of the 
cream in a pastry bag containing a star tube in the end and decorate 
the surface with dots of the cream. 

Spong-e Fig- Cake. — Take 12 large figs, wash, chop fine and boil 
until soft. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff and mix with them a cup- 
ful of powdered sugar. Mash the figs with a spoon into a paste and 
stir in the eggs and sugar. Bake a sponge cake in shallow plates or 
pans, and when cold spread the filling thickly between the layers and 
over the top ; you may flavor the filling with either lemon or vanilla. 

Fig- Layer Cake. — Beat 3 eggs and 1 cup sugar 15 minutes, add 
one-half cup milk and lyi cups flour, with 2 teaspoons of baking 
powder sifted with flour. Mix and add 1 tablespoon of melted but- 
ter. Bake quickly in shallow layer cake tins. Filling : One pound 
of figs chopped fine (add a little cold water if they chop hard), one- 
half cup sugar, one-half cup cold water. Mix and cook slowly until 
a smooth paste. Add juice of 1 lemon. Frosting: White of egg 
and confectioners' sugar. 

Tiitti Friitti Layer Cake. — Make any preferred rule of layer 
cake, rather rich, and put together with the following: Filling. — 
Boil 1 pound sugar, 1 gill of water, till it ropes, then pour on stiff 
whites of 4 eggs. Beat hard, add one-quarter of a pound chopped 
citron, one-quarter of a pound chopped figs, one-half pound seeded 
and chopped raisins, 1 pound blanched and pounded almonds (or 
chopped) ; these all well stirred together before mixing with the egg 
mixture. Spread between the layers and on top and sides of cake, 
or, cut in squares or three-cornered, etc., and frost each separate piece. 
Very nice for whist parties, etc. 

Kibbou Fig- Cake. — Two-thirds of a cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls 
sugar, 1 cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour sifted, with 3 teaspoonfuls bak- 
ing powder. Divide the batter. To one half add 1 % cupfuls chopped 
fi'Ts ar.cl bake in 2 jelly tins, Teave the other half plain and bake in 



CAKES. 385 

2 jelly tins. Put together in alternate layers of light and dark, using 
a plain frosting. 

Washing-ton Pie. — Cake Part. One tg,^, three-quarters cup sugar, 
granulated, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 1^ cups flour, three-quarters cup 
milk, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. Bake in Wash- 
ington pie tins. Filling: Cup milk, sweetened to taste, add 1 (t^^ 
well beaten, heat to boiling point, add 2 teaspoons cornstarch dis- 
solved in a little water. After it has boiled up remove from fire. When 
ready to fill cake, spread, then slice 2 whole bananas, lay on cream, 
put a little more cream over them, then lay the cake on top. The 
bananas may be omitted. The top can be frosted if desired. 

Peach Cake. — Bake 2 layers of plain sponge cake. Cut peaches 
in thin slices and add sugar. Put a layer of peaches on ] sheet of 
cake and cover with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Add 
the other layer of cake and cover with whipped cream alone. 

Cranberry Cake. — Use the same rule as for peach cake, or even 
a plainer, 1-egg cake. Bake in jelly-cake tins, and when cool spread 
between the layers with cranberry jelly, and then sift powdered sugar 
on top. 

Berry Cake. — Make a plain layer cake, bake in 2 tins. Filling: 
Make a soft frosting of the whites of 2 eggs and 2 spoons of sugar; 
take nearly half of this and spread on cake, then take 1 quart of fresh 
blueberries or raspberries, sweeten to taste, and spread half of them 
on the soft frosting on cake, then put on second layer, spread rest of 
berries, and, last, rest of soft frosting. This is a delicious dessert 
for dinner. 

Strawberry Layer Cake. — Make a layer cake after any preferred 
recipe, bake in 3 tins. Have the strawberries carefully picked over. 
Beat the whites of 2 eggs lightly and add gradually 4 tablespoonfi.ils 
of powdered sugar, and beat until stiff enough to stand alone. Put a 
layer of this over the top of 1 cake, then a layer of berries ; stand 
another cake on top of this. Put the remainder of the white filling 
over the top of this cake, then another layer of berries. Now place 
the remaining cake on top of this, press down lightly, dust the top 
over with powdered sugar, and it is ready for use. Filling : Take 1 
cup of strawberries, mash, add white of 1 &^^ and 1 cup of sugar, 
beat the same as for apple snow; raspberry jam can be used in the 
same way. - ' " 

25 ->f 



38G CAKES. 

Apple Jelly Cake. — One egg, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, butter size of an egg, 2 cups of flour, and 3 teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder. Bake in jelly cake tins. Jelly : Use 2 large or 3 
small apples, grated, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, the juice and grated rind 
of a lemon. Boil 5 minutes; place between cakes. This makes a 
delicious filling for a pie also. 

Apple Snow Cake. — One egg and 1 yolk of another; 1 cupful 
sugar, 1 t::iblespoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 2 cupfuls 
flour. Bake in 3 tins. Filling : One grated sour apple, white of 1 
egg, 1 cupful of fine sugar. Beat together, spread between and on 
top of the cake. Flavor with lemon extract, or a little lemon-juice. 
A plain tart apple sauce may be made, well sweetened, beaten smooth 
and spread between the layers. 

Jelly Cake. — Three eggs, well beaten; half cupful sweet milk, or 
water; 2 tablespoonfuls butter,! cupful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, sifted with \]i cupfuls flour. Bake in four layers. Put 
together with any kind of jelly, marmalade, or jam. 

Walnut Layer Cake. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, 2 
cups of flour, 3 eggs, yolks of all and whites of one, 1 teaspoon of soda 
in half cup milk, 2 of cream of tartar, and bake in 3 layers. Filli)ig : 
Beat the whites of 2 eggs with 1 cup of sugar and add 1 cup of 
chopped walnuts. Put the cake together with this. 

Filling. — //. Take 1 cup of sugar, enough water to dissolve it, 
let it boil till it drips slowly from the spoon, then pour it on the whites 
of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir till thick. Take half of it and 
add part of the walnut meats chopped. Spread between the layers. 
Put the rest of the frosting on top and lay a row of the halves of the 
walnuts around the edge of the cake. It requires the meats from half 
a pound of walnuts. 

Neapolitan Cake {Dark part). — One cup of brown sugar, one- 
half cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of strong 
coffee, 3 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking powder, 1 cup of 
raisins, 1 cup of currants, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and 
mace. Bake in jelly cake pans. 

{Light Part). — Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 3 cups of flour, 
one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of baking powder and the whites of 
4 eggs. Put together alternately with dark, spreading icing between. 
Ice the top. 



CAKES. 387 

Fruit Layer Cake. — One cupful sugar creamed with one-half 
cupful butter, 2 eggs, one-half cupful sweet milk, 1^ cupfuls flour 
sifted with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 cupful raisins chopped, 
one-half cupful Zante currants, 1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, nut- 
meg and allspice. Add the fruit last, dredging well with flour. Bake 
in 3 layers, using frosting to put together when baked ; frost top and 
sides. 

Raisin Layer Cake. — Make as above, using raisins only for the 
fruit. Bake in 3 layers and frost. 

Layer Spice Cake. — Two cupfuls sugar creamed with 1 cupful 
butter, ] cupful sweet milk, or milk and water, 4 cupfuls flour sifted 
with 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 4 eggs well beaten. Divide the 
batter. Bake one-half in 2 layer tins, and to the other half add one- 
half cupful molasses. 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful each of 
nutmeg and allspice, one-half teaspoonful cloves. Bake in 2 layer 
cake tins and put together alternately light and dark, with any frost- 
ing or icing that may be preferred. 

Maple Caramel Cake. — Two eggs (save out the white of one), 1 
cup of granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of melted butter, 1^ cups of 
sifted flour, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 2 teaspoons of baking 
powder (not heaping). Sift baking powder in with flour and bake in 
3 layers. Filling : Two cups of pure maple sugar; put on stove with 
a little water to keep from burning ; let it cook until it hairs ; then 
set off, and beat the white of the &^^ to a froth and stir in sugar and 
beat until cool enough to spread without running. It wants to be 
kept in a cool, dry place. It is very nice to put 1 cup of English 
walnuts chopped in the filling after the ^^^ is put in. 

Maple Sugar Cake. — Make a layer cake as above, and put to- 
gether with the following filling. Filling : Put in a new tin Xyi cups 
of maple sugar, 1^^ cups of sweet cream, 1 tablespoon of butter ; 
boil all together 40 minutes, flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla and 
spread between the cake if made in layers ; beat until cool and 
creamy, and spread. Begin this before the cake is commenced. 

Caramel Cake, — Two eggs, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of but- 
ter, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half tea- 
spoon of soda and 2 cups of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add 
the eggs (whites and yolks well beaten separately, then together), 
then the milk, in which the soda is dissolved, and lastly the flour, 



388 CAKES. 

with which the cream of tartar is sifted. Bake in 2 layers. lu/Iing : 
Boil together 2 coffee cups of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of milk and 
a piece of butter the size of an egg. After boiling 10 minutes, re- 
move from the fire, beat until cool and creamy ; flavor and spread be- 
tween the layers and on top of the cake. Vanilla is the best flavor 
for this filling". 

Miiniehalia Cake. — Two cups of brown sugar, 2 cups of flour, 
one-half cup of water and 5 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
grated peel of 2 oranges ; mix sugar and yolks together, then add 
the water and whites of eggs well beaten, and the flour, in which has 
been sifted the baking powder. Add flavoring according to taste. 
Bake in square or round layers. For the filling, 1 pound of sugar 
boiled until it flies from the spoon in strings ; upon this pour the 
whites of 4 eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Beat hard ; 
then add one-quarter pound of chopped citron, one-quarter pound of 
chopped figs, one-half pound seeded and cut-fine raisins, 1 pound of 
blanched almonds chopped fine. Mix all together and add the icing. 
Gradually spread between the layers and on the top and side of the 
cake. This cake can be used at any collation, for supper or dessert, 
and if put in a stone crock it will keep fresh for some time. 

Ambrosia Cake. — Three-quarters of a cup of butter, 2 cups of 
sugar, 4 eggs, one-half cup of milk, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of 
baking powder ; bake in 4 jelly cake tins ; when cold put between 
the layers the following : Filling. — One pint of whipped cream, 1 co- 
coanut grated, 2 eggs, 1 cup of sugar, grated rind of 1 and juice of 2 
oranges. 

Pond Lily Cake. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of sugar, the whites 
of 3 eggs, beaten stiff; beat all together, add 1 cup of sweet milk, 3 
cups of flour, with 1 teaspoon of baking powder sifted with it. Bake 
in 4 layers, put together with the following : Filling. — The yolks of 4 
eggs, beaten with 1 cup of sugar until very thick and light, flavor 
with rose or orange, use the other white for frosting the top. Flavor 
the cake while hot with vanilla ; use an atomizer, as baking spoils the 
strength of the vanilla, if not of the best quality. 

Rebel Cake. — " Rebel cake " is a great favorite in the South. It 
was so named in honor of the great Confederate, General Robert E. 
Lee. Take 9 eggs, the weight of 7 eggs in sugar, the weight of 4 
eggs in flour, down weight. Add the sugar to the well-beaten yolks 



CAKES. 389 

of 9 eggs, then add the whites, beaten very light. Stir the flour 
gently and season with fresh lemon ; bake in jelly cake tins. When 
cold spread each layer with the following filling : Strain the grated 
rind and juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon through a fine sieve into a 
pound of pulverized sugar. Add to this a grated cocoanut and the 
white of an egg beaten very light. This recipe will make two cakes 
of nine layers each. 

Fancy Cakes. 

Vanilla Wafers. — One cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, 1 
egg, 4 tablespoons of milk, 1 tablespoon of vanilla, 2 full teaspoons 
of baking powder. Cream the butter, then add the sugar, beating 
them well together. Add the egg, well beaten, then the milk and 
vanilla ; sift the baking powder in with part of the flour, using flour 
enough to roll out very thin. Bake in a quick oven. Sprinkle sugar 
on top before cutting out. 

Almond Wafers. — Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched 
and finely chopped almonds, and mix with them 6 ounces of pow- 
dered sugar, 3 whole eggs that are beaten up together, and 1}4 
ounces of finely sifted flour ; flavor the mixture with essence of va- 
nilla and then cook as follows : Take some baking tins and brush 
them over with white wax ; allow them to get cool, then spread the 
mixture on the tins very thinly, and bake in a very moderate oven 
until the water dries on top; then take up the tins and cut the paste 
into strips — rounds or squares, as liked — put in a screen or very 
moderate oven, and let them remain until quite dry. If kept in a dry 
place they will keep for some time, and can be used with ices or 
creams, or compotes of fruit, or for dessert. 

Walnut Wafers. — One-half pint of brown sugar, one-half pint of 
walnut meats, 3 even tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2 
eggs. Beat the eggs ; then add sugar, salt, flour, and walnuts. Drop 
from spoon on buttered paper, and bake until brown. 

Seed Wafers. — One-half pound of sugar, one-quarter pound of 
butter, creamed with the sugar; 4 eggs, beaten very light; enough 
flour for soft dough ; 1 ounce caraway seeds, mixed with the dry 
flour. Mix well ; roll into a very thin paste. Cut into round cakes; 
brush each over with the v;hite of an egg, sift powdered sugar upon 
it, and bake in a brisk oven about 10 minutes, or until crisp. Do not 



890 



CAKES. 



take them from the baking tins until nearly cold, as they are apt to 
break while hot. 

Cocoaimt Wafers — One cup of sugar, three-quarters cup of 
butter, 1 egg, 4 tablespoons of milk, ] Y^ teaspoons of cream of tartar, 
three-quarters teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll thin. Stir in 
one-half cup of cocoanut. Bake in a quick oven. 

Lemon Wafers. — Dainty lemon wafers to serve with ice are 
made of 2 eggs, their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour, 
and the grated rind of 1 lemon. Beat thoroughly. Then drop on a 
buttered pan, and bake till a pale yellow brown. Flatten the cake as 
it spreads on the pan, to give wafers the size of a small teacup top. 

Egg- Wafers. — 
To 1 large egg add 1 
tablespoonful of su- 
gar (brown is the 
best) ; jDut sugar and 
^%Z together, and 
beat thoroughly for 5 
minutes; then knead 
in prepared flour 
enough to make them 
of the consistency of 
doughnuts; roll out 
thin, cut out with 
the biscuit cutter (or 
with something still 
smaller, if you like), 
and fry in hot lard the same as doughnuts. They will not soak fat, 
and are nice for lunch ; 3 large eggs will make enough for one meal 
for a family of four. Prepared Flour. — To 1 quart of unsifted flour, 
add 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda, and 1 teaspoon 
of salt. Sift 2 or 3 times. Shut up in a tin pail what flour you don't 
use. Keep in a cool place; it will make good biscuit. 

Chocolate Wafers. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 
cup granulated sugar, 1 cup grated chocolate, 1 &^^, 1 teaspoon fill 
baking powder, one-half cup water, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, flour to 
make a stiff batter ; roll thin, and cut with square cutter. Bake on 
greased tins. 




CAKES. 391 

Tea Leinon Wafers — Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a 
cream ; add half a pound of powdered sugar. Beat 6 eggs until 
creamy, and mix with the butter and sugar; then add the juice and 
rind of 2 lemons, with 1 grated nutmeg, and flour to make a stiff 
batter. Beat all together until smooth and light. Heat the wafer 
irons over a clear fire, grease lightly with butter, put in enough of the 
batter to fill the irons, close, and turn over a clear fire until brown. 
Take out, dust with powdered sugar, and roll around a smooth stick. 
Remove carefully, when cold. (Very dainty little cakes.) 

Cream Fruit Wafers. — One-half of a cupful of butter beaten to a 
cream; into this stir 1 small cupful of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of 
coffee extract. Into one-half pint of sour cream put one-half tea- 
spoonful of soda, and add to the other mixture with half a cupful of 
chopped raisins and enough flour to roll out thin. These wafers are 
delicious. 

La'ly Fing-ers, — Into one-quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar 
stir the yolks of 3 eggs until very light; beat the whites of 3 eggs to 
a stiff froth, and stir into the first mixture; add gently half a cup of 
sifted flour ; bake in lady-finger pans, sprinkled with pulverized 
sugar. Bake in a slow oven 15 minutes. 

Lemon Snaps, — Two small lemons, juice of 2 and grated rind of 
1, 1 teacup of sugar, half a cup of butter, 1 egg, 3 teaspoonfuls of 
milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar, mix 
with enough flour to make rather stiff. If lemons are not convenient, 
simply flavor strongly with lemon extract. 

Coffee Snaps. — One-half cup molasses, half cup sugar, half cup 
lard or butter, a little salt, half teaspoonful soda, dissolved ; one-quar- 
ter cup of strong coffee. Beat well, add flour enough to roll, and 
bake in a quick oven. 

Cream Puflfs. — One cup of boiling water poured over half cup of 
butter. When you have done this, place it on the stove, bring to a 
boil, and add 1 cup of sifted flour. Let boil 5 minutes, beating all 
the time. When cool add 3 eggs, not beaten. Beat for 10 minutes, 
then add soda the size of a pea. This makes 12 large puffs. Bake 
30 minutes. Filling : One cup of milk, 1 egg, half cup of sugar. 
Beat until thick. Flavor to taste. This recipe will always puff. 
When the puffs and the cream are both cool, open a little way on the 
side with a sharp knife and fill with the cream. 



392 



CAKES. 



Horns of Plenty. — Two eggs. Their weight in .sugar ; half their 
weight in flour ; flavor to suit. Beat thoroughly. Bake quickly. 
When taken from the oven, roll each one into a little cornucopia. 
Fill when serving with whipped cream. These are very pretty to 
look at at afternoon teas, and nice to eat with chocolate. A jelly or 
a chocolate filling may be used in.stead of cream. 

Sand Tarts. — One cup butter, one-half cup molasses, 2 eggs (re- 
serving white of 1), 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 cup brown sugar, 3 
cups flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Roll out thin, glaze with 
white of egg, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and when baked dot 
with bits of currant jelly. 

Holiday Cakes. — Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled 
almonds, and slice in halves ; chop half a pound of citron ; mix 
them together and roll in sifted flour ; add to 6 well-beaten eggs and 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar; mix well, and sift in a pound of 
flour. Butter long, shallow cake pans, put the batter in them and 
bake in a quick oven. When done, take out, roll in sugar and finely 
pounded almonds. Put away in a tight tin box, and these cakes will 
keep for a year. 

Jumbles. — Take a half pound of flour, 1 pound of granulated 
sugar, three-quarters pound of butter, and 3 eggs. Beat the butter 

and sugar to a cream, 
add the eggs well beat- 
en, then a teaspoonful 
ofvanillaandhalfa nut- 
meg grated, then the 
flour, with 1 teaspoon- 
Biscuit and Cake Cutters. ful of soda, dissolved in 
half a cup of milk. Beat the whole well together. Dust the baking 
board with granulated sugar instead of flour ; roll out the mixture 
about an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut with a round cutter ; take 
the centres out with a smallar cutter ; thus forming rings. Bake in 
a moderate oven until the edges are a delicate brown. 

Licmon Jumbles. — Beat half a pound of butter to a cream and 
add gradually half a pound of powdered sugar ; add 3 well-beaten 
eggs, the juice of a lemon and 9 tablespoonfuls flour. Beat all to- 
gether, drop in rings on the bottom of a greased baking-pan and 
bake in a moderate oven. When done, roll in sugar while hot. 




CAKES. 393 

Orandinotlier's Jumbles. — One cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 
eggs, the grated rind of an orange or lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of 
the juice, half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the juice. Flour 
enough to roll. Cut out centre of each cake. 

Alinoud Jumbles. — Beat 2 cups sugar and ly^ cups butter to a 
smooth, light cream. Add 6 eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly. 
Add half a wine glass of apricot juice, half a cup of cornstarch and 
3 of sifted flour. Blanch and chop 1 pound of almonds. Boil dough 
thin, cut with jumble cutter, .sprinkle almonds over and sift with pow- 
dered sugar. Press a little to keep the nuts in place Bake in quick 
oven, with buttered paper on tins. Rosewater can be used in place 
of the apricot juice. 

Cocoanut Jumbles. — Stir together 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of 
butter, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Add 1 grated cocoanut and 2^^ 
cups of flour, measured before sifting. Last, stir in lightly the whites 
of 6 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop in rings 3 inches across on 
buttered tins, leaving them about 1 inch apart. Bake in a quick oven, 
first dusting the top with grated cocoanut. 

Fruit Jumbles. — One cup butter, 2 cups sugar, half cup sour 
milk, half teaspoonful of saleratus, 3 eggs, half grated nutmeg, 3^ 
cups flour, 1 cup currants. Bake in broad, shallow pans, and cut in 
square pieces while warm. 

Rolled Coffee Cakes. — Two cups of bread dough when ready 
for the baking-pans, 4 scant tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 of sugar, the 
white of 1 egg beaten, a saltspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little 
water, and one-half teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Mix and roll 
out one-quarter of an inch thick and spread with a paste made by 
stirring two-thirds of a cup of sugar into 1 well-beaten egg. Roll up 
like jelly-cake, cut around into pieces 1 inch thick. Set on end close 
together in shallow tins. When very light bake in a rather quick 
oven. They are excellent warm or cold. 

Peamit Cakes. — One pint of peanut kernels rolled fine, one-half 
pound sugar, 3 eggs, butter the size of a walnut, 8 tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Can drop on greased tins or roll out and cut in round shape 
and bake. These are very good. 

Leb-Kuehen (Germau). — A favorite confection Avith Germans. 
Four eggs, 1 pound of sugnr (beat in one direction one-half hour), 1 
pound of flour, half a pound of crushed almonds, quarter pound of 



3^4 CAKES. 

sliced citron, 1 lemon, grated rind ; 1 orange, peel ; half ounce of 
cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, half tea- 
spoonful (scant) baking powder. Stir well, roll out about like jum- 
bles, cut into square cakes and bake. When cold, spread lightly 
with frosting. Some cooks add molasses or honey to above recipe, 
and this can be done if desired. 

Geriiiau Oraiig-e Cake. — Beat well together the yolks of 6 eggs, 
2 ounces of butter that has been creamed and a half pound of pow- 
dered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth. Sift to- 
gether a half pound of flour and a teaspoonful of baking powder. 
Take the juice, grated rind and soft pulp of 3 oranges, leaving out 
carefully the seed and tough fibre. Mix as follows : First stir the 
oranges into the sugar, butter and yolks ; then put in the whites of 
the eggs and the flour alternately. Pour quickly into little pans, and 
bake in an oven that is not too hot. The icing may be made without 
eggs, which is a great convenience for a Christmas cake, when eggs 
are al^vays dear. Add the grated rind of an orange to a half pound 
of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of boiling water, and enough 
orange juice to moisten it thoroughly. Use at once. It is better to 
let the cakes get cool before beginning to make this icing. 

Zinunet Kiiclien. — Shorten simple bread dough by kneading in 
fresh, sweet butter. When the dough and butter have been so thor- 
oughly mixed that the former fairly puffs out with lightness, you 
have foundation for a " kuchen." Spread the dough thinly and 
evenly in a long, shallow tin ; cover this with an egg beaten briskly 
until it froths ; over this drop a coating of granulated sugar ; drop 
little lumps of sugar here and there and sprinkle liberally all over the 
top with powdered cinnamon. Be careful to leave a little margin of 
dough all the way round the tin. It is best to line tin with confec- 
tioners' paper or grease with fresh lard. Let this mixture rise a little 
while before putting it into the brisk, hot oven, in which it must be 
baked until the top is brown. The ingredients on the top of the 
kuchen will all run together and melt into a delicious sort of candied 
top. Serve kuchen by cutting narrow strips (about half an inch wide) 
across the kuchen, and eat it like a stick of candy. 



mm 





Success in making good fried cakes depends 
as much on the cooking as on the mixing. In 
the first place, there should be boiling lard 
enough to free them from the bottom of the 
kettle, so that they swim on the top, and the 
lard should never be so hot as to smoke or so cool as not 
to be at the boiling point ; if it is, they soak grease, and 
are spoiled. If it is at the right heat, the doughnut will in 
about 10 minutes be of a delicate brown outside and nicely cooked 
inside. Five or six minutes will cook a cruller. Try the fat by 
dropping a bit of the dough in first ; if it is right, the fat will boil up 
when it is dropped in. They should be turned over almost con- 
stantly, which causes them to rise and brown evenly. When they 
are sufificiently cooked, raise them from the hot fat, and drain them 
until every drop ceases dripping. 

Fried cakes shortened with butter are less likely to absorb fat 
than those shortened with lard. After fat has been used for frying 
doughnuts it should be set away to cool, when the sediment will sink 
and the lard may be removed in a clean cake. If very much scorched, 
clarify by boiling a few slices of raw potatoes in the lard. Fry only 
a few at a time, so that they can be easily turned. A mixture, two- 
thirds lard and one-third suet, is a wholesome fat for frying dough- 
nuts and less likely to soak the cake. 

Crullers. — Eight tablespoons of white sugar, 4 tablespoons of 
melted butter, 2 tablespoons of milk, 4 eggs, 1 tea.spoon of soda, 2 
teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 nutmeg, flour to make it stiff enough 
to roll ; cut in desired shapes and braid in 5 strands ; fry in hot lard. 
Roll in sugar. 

Cream Crullers. — One and one-half cups of sugar, 2 cups of 
cream, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, mixed in flour enough 
to roll out soft ; cut in desired shapes, and fry in very hot lard. 

Doug-hnuts. — Two eggs well beaten, 1 large cup granulated 
sugar, one-half a nutmeg, pinch of salt, 6 tablespoonfuls melted lard, 
1 quart of buttermilk, 1 heaping teaspoon of soda, flour to make a 

395 



396 DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS. 

soft dough. Roll one-half inch thick, and fry in hot, deep lard. 
While hot roll them in powdered sugar. They should be put in jars 
and covered while warm. 

Doushinits. — IL Beat 2 eggs, 1^ cups of sugar, a pinch of salt, 
about a teaspoon of grated nutmeg, a tablespoon of melted lard or 
butter together, then add 2 cups of sour milk or buttermilk and a 
heaping teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll. Have it as soft as 
you can handle easily ; fry in very hot lard. Do not roll too thin, as 
the beauty of a doughnut is to have it plump. Put them in a stone 
jar or a covered tin pail and they will keep moist until they are eaten. 
It is better to use butter for shortening, as it is not so apt to soak fat. 

Doiighnuts Without Shortening-. — One quart of flour sifted with 
1^ teaspoonfuls soda and 3 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 1 cupful 
sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful mixed of cinna- 
mon and nutmeg, if spices are liked. Mix with enough sweet milk 
to roll out. Cut in round cakes and cut out the centre. Three tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder can be used instead of cream of tartar 
and soda. 

Fried Pies. — Use this recipe and add chopped apples (sour) to 
the dough. Serve hot with sauce. 

Raised Doiig-hniits. — Scald 1 pint of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, 
half cup of butter, half cup of water with half cake of compressed 
yeast dissolved in it, a little cinnamon and nutmeg. Have the milk 
lukewarm and mix them all together at night. Make a stiff dough 
so as to knead. In the morning, if raised, stir down and let it rise 
again. After this rising roll them out about as thick as other dough- 
nuts, cut with a round cutter, lay them on a cloth and cover with 
another and let them rise until light. Then fry and roll in sugar. 
The success in making these depends on the temperature. It must 
be uniform ; that is, a warm place. These are better when freshly 
made. 

Cream Donghnuts. — Sift 1 quart of flour, into which stir 2 heaping 
teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 teaspoon of salt, and sift again. Beat 
2 eggs very light, with which beat two-thirds cup of sugar and 1 
cup of thin sweet cream. Stir in the flour, leaving enough to use in 
moulding. Handle as little as possible. If cream is not easily ob- 
tained, use a cup of sweet milk and a tablespoon of hot lard. Sour 
cream and soda may be used. 




DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS. 397 

Raised Doiig-Imiits. — II. Haifa pound of butter, 1 pound of sugar, 
1 quart of sweet milk, 1 large cup of yeast, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of 
mixed spice, equal quantities of nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, cloves 
and mace, and a teaspoon of salt. Make a sponge of the butter, 
sugar, milk, yeast, salt and three pints of flour. Let it 
rise over night. In the morning add the eggs and spice 
and flour enough to make it as stiff as bread dough. Let 
it rise again, roll into a thick sheet, cut out and fry in lard 
boiling hot. To test the fat to see if hot enough, put in Jumble 
a little piece of the dough. If hot enough, the small Cutter, 
piece will soon rise to the top. Make the cakes in any shape with a 
cutter, or cut in small strips and twist. 

Raised Coffee Doughnuts. — One quart of lukewarm milk, or 
half water and milk, half yeast cake dissolved in it, 1 large tablespoon 
of sugar, half teaspoon of salt and flour enough to make as stiff as 
bread, but not kneaded; stir with a spoon quite stiff; raise over night. 
In the morning drop from a knife or spoon into boiling fat. Knead- 
ing makes them too hard. Serve hot with coffee. Use a larger 
quantity of sugar if more palatable. 

Molasses Doug-hnuts. — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of sour milk, 
1 egg, 1 teaspoon of soda, a very little ginger, a little salt and nut- 
meg, enough flour to roll soft. Very nice. 

Graham Doughnuts. — Two cupfuls buttermilk, teaspoon ful soda, 
1 cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 egg, 
Graham flour to roll out; cinnamon to flavor, or nutmeg; water, or 
sweet milk and two teaspoonfuls baking powder may be substituted 
for the sour milk and soda. 

Indian-Meal Doughnuts. — One and a half cupfuls boiling sweet 
milk poured over 2 cupfuls of Indian meal, when cool add 2 cupfuls 
wheat flour, 1 }i cupfuls sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, half 
teaspoonful salt; 1 egg is a great addition, but can be omitted; 1 tea- 
gpoonful cinnamon if liked. If more flour is needed, add Indian meal 
and flour in equal parts. Roll half inch thick, cut in small squares 
or diamonds and fry in hot lard. 

Love Knots. — One egg, 4 tablespoonfuls sweet cream, 2 table- 
spoonfuls sugar, pinch of salt; flour to knead very hard ; roll out, 
cut in n^jrrow strips. Tie each one in two or three knots and fry in 
hot lard; sprinkle with white sugar while hot. 




Cookies are put together with less care 
than more elaborate cakes, and the eggs 
are not beaten separately. Drii)pings, cla- 
rified, can sometimes be used for shortening 
mstead of butter. Bake sausage in the 
oven instead of frying, and the drippings 
\jJ'll^fj^f will be white and clear. 

^^m^ Sugar Cookies. — One cup of sour milk, one-half cup 

' ^ of butter, 2 cups of sugar, even teaspoon of soda, pinch 

of salt, nutmeg, and flour to knead quite stiff Roll out, and sprinkle 
sugar over the top, and run your roller lightly over before cutting 
in fancy shapes. Bake in quick oven. Drippings can be used. 

Peerless Cookies. — Three eggs, 2 cups sugar, and two-thirds 
cup melted butter, beaten well together; add one-half cup of milk, 
pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon baking powder, into 1 quart sifted flour. If 
this is not sufficient to roll stiff, add more flour. Roll granulated 
sugar on top of cookies before baking. Sprinkle the sugar on the 
board, and roll the dough over it. 

Egg-less Cookies. — Half cupful sweet milk, one-third teaspoonful 
soda dissolved in the milk; three-quarters teaspoonful cream of tartar 
sifted with part of the flour; 1 cupful sugar, one-third cupful butter; 
flour to roll thin. Cut with a cake cutter, and bake in a quick oven. 
Sour milk and soda may be used, or 1 teaspoonful baking powder 
may be substituted for cream tartar and soda. Drippings may be 
used instead of butter. Flavor or spice to the taste. 

Cream Cookies. — Dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in a little warm 
water, and add to 1 cup of sour cream. Cream 1 cup of butter with 
2 of sugar, and add 2 eggs, beaten light, without separating, and the 
sour cream. Mix smooth, with 3^ cups of flour. Have this mix- 
ture as soft as possible ; roll out, and cut very nicely. Bake in 
greased pans in a moderately quick oven. 

Ideal Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, half cupful butter, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls cinnamon, one-half grated nutmeg; cream all together ; add 
398 




COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 399 

2 well-beaten eggs ; beat well, and pour in half cupful of milk ; add 
enough flour to make a dough that can be handled, sifting 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder with part of the flour. Flour your 
hands, and take bits of the dough and shape them into balls between 
the palms. Throw each ball into a cup of granulated sugar, and 
shake until the ball is thoroughly coated. Place these balls on a 
well-greased baking tin, and they will spread out into 
regulation-sized cookies. Place them on the floor of the 
oven at first. Bake them a very pale brown. Pack away 
at once, between napkins, in a jar or cake box. Run a 
thin, broad knife under them to loosen them from the 
pan, and they will not break. They ought to come from Cookie 
the oven spicy and sparkling, and cracked all over, like Cutter. 
macaroons. 

Oatmeal Cookies. — To 1 large coffee cup of cold boiled oatmeal, 
allow 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of white flour, butter the size of an egg, 
a pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon of soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar. 
Roll out thin, and cut out the same as cookies. Bake in hot oven. 

Graliaiu Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls sour cream, 1 
cupful fine flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 egg, pinch of salt, Graham 
flour sufficient to roll out soft as possible. 

Dominoes. — Take any preferred rule of cookies. Cut the dough 
in oblongs to represent dominoes, frost them with white icing when 
done, and make the dots and dividing lines of melted chocolate to 
represent dominoes. Children are delighted with these cakes, and 
they are especially nice for children's parties. 

Seed Cookies. — One cup of butter, 2 of white sugar, 3 eggs, 1 
tablespoonful caraway seed, and flour enough to make a stiff paste. 
Sprinkle the board with sugar, roll out the dough very thin, and cut 
it in rounds. Bake about 15 minutes. They should be crisp, like an 
old-fashioned ginger-snap, and will improve with keeping. If you 
wish them soft, as some people do, keep them in a stone jar in a cold 
place ; but if you wish them crisp, keep them in a tin box in a per- 
fectly dry, but not a hot place. 

Lemon Cookies. — One quart of flour, 1 cupful of butter, 1 pint 
of sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the juice of 1 
lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, grated yellow rind of the 
lemon. They can be rolled in granulated sugar or frosted. 



400 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 

Water Cookies. — One cupful sugar, one-half cupful butter, 1 cup- 
ful cold water, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Spice, or fla- 
voring extract to taste. Flour to roll out. 

Coriaudei' Cookies. — One cup of butter, 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup 
" loppered " milk or cream, 4 eggs, 7 cups flour, or just enough to 
stiffen into a rollable paste ; 2 tablespoonfuls coriander seed (ground 
or beaten), 1 tablespoonful of soda, dissolved in boiling water. If 
you use sweet milk, add 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. You may 
substitute caraway for the coriander seed. 

Chocolate Cookies. — Beat to a cream half a cupful of butter. 
Gradually beat into this 1 cupful of sugar, add a little salt, a little 
cinnamon and 2 ounces of melted chocolate. Now add 1 well-beaten 
egg and a half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of 
milk, add '2^ cups of flour, roll thin and bake in a quick oven. 

Peanut Cookies. — Cream tablespoon of butter, 2 tablespoons of 
sugar, 1 egg, one-half cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of baking pow- 
der, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of milk ; add 1 pint of peanuts, 
shelled and chopped fine. Drop by teaspoonful on the buttered 
sheets. Place one-half a nut on top of each and bake in a slow oven 
12 or 15 minutes. 

Date Cookies. — One large cup of dates, stoned and cut in small 
pieces, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, a little salt, two-thirds of a cup of butter 
or lard, or half of each, little cinnamon and nutmeg, one-half tea- 
spoon of vanilla, 2 cups of flour sifted together with 1 teaspoon of 
soda and 2 of cream of tartar ; then add one-half cup of sweet milk 
or water ; use more flour if needed, roll quite thin and bake in rather 
quick oven. 

Fruit Cookies. — One egg, 1 cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two- 
thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 teaspoon 
cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon saleratus, 1 teaspoon each of cin- 
namon, clove and nutmeg, little salt, 1 cup chopped raisins, enough 
flour to make considerably stiffer than cake ; drop on a buttered tin, 
spread out a little, bake quickly. Very nice. 

Frosted Cookies. — One-half cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 2 eggs, 
omitting 1 white, one-half teaspoon soda, 1 cupful sweet milk and 
water, 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Plavor to suit. One teaspoon- 
ful baking powder can be used instead of cream of tartar and soda. 
Flour sufficient to roll out. Sift the baking powder with some of the 



COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 401 

flour. Bake, and when cool frost with the remaining white of an egrj 
beaten to a froth and stirred stiff with powdered sugar. 

Gingerbreads. 

Yolks of eggs are very nice added to gingerbread, and where they 
are left over from other cakes and frostmgs, they can be added with 
great advantage to gingerbread. Fruits of all kinds, raisins, etc., are 
also great additions. Ginger can be modified by the addition of other 
spices, or omitted, and cinnamon or other spices used instead. 

Spong-e Gingerbread. — One cupful sugar, 1 cupful of molasses, 1 
cupful butter, or butter and lard, 1 cupful of sour milk, 4 eggs, whites 
and yolks beaten separately, 1 cupful of raisins, if wished, 4 cupfuls 
of flour, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 
the milk, one-half teaspoonful salt. In place of sour milk and soda, 
sweet milk and baking powder or cream of tartar and soda may be 
used. 

Spouge Giiig-erbread. — II. One pint of molasses, 1 dessertspoon 
of soda, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 4 large cooking spoons of shortening 
melted (I use half lard and half butter). Beat the soda and ginger 
into the molasses, and then the shortening, and a little salt; then add 
one-half pint scant of hot water, flour to roll, make about as thick as 
doughnuts, and roll about as thin. Crease like cookies, cut in squares 
about 4 or 5 inches, and bake in a hot oven. A tempting cake for 
the ladies to try. 

Cream Gingerbread. — Mix a cup of New Orleans molasses, 1 of 
sour cream, 2 of flour, half a cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half a teaspoonful 
of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, 2 tablespoonfuls or more of ginger. 
If you have no sour cream, use half a cup of lard or beef drippings 
and butter mixed, and half a cupful of sweet milk and baking powder 
instead of soda. 

Cream Gingerbread. — II. One cup of sour cream, 1 teaspoon of 
soda dissolved in the cream, 1 cup of molasses, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 
1 teaspoon of salt, 2)^ cups of flour. 

Maple Molasses Gingerbread. — One cupful of boiling water, a 
piece of butter the size of an egg, 1 cupful of maple molasses, one- 
half teaspoonful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of ginger, 2 cupfuls of 
flour. Common molasses may be substituted for the maple molasses, 
but the flavor will not be the same, 
26 



402 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 

Poverty Giiigerbresul. — Three tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1^^ 
tablespoonfuls of butter or fried pork fat, 1 teaspoonful of ginger, 1 
teaspoon of soda, a little salt; put into a teacup and fill the cup with 
best molasses (Porto Rico, I use); then add flour to make not very 
stiff; makes 1 good-sized cake. This rule is 50 years old, and has 
always given satisfaction. 

Date Gingerbread. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, half 
cup of milk, 2 eggs, a teaspoon of cream of tartar, half teaspoon of 
soda, a tablespoon of ginger, a pinch of mustard and 2 scant cups of 
flour, 1 large cup of chopped dates ; bake about 20 minutes. 

Fruit Gingerbread. — Two cupfuls unsifted flour, 1 cupful coffee 
sugar, 1 cupful molasses, half cupful butter, one-quarter cupful sour 
cream or milk, 3 eggs, half pound chopped raisins, halfpound currants, 
1 level teaspoonful soda, 1 tablespoonful ginger, half teaspoonful 
cloves. Cream the butter and sugar, warm the molasses and add them 
together with the beaten yolks, then the soda dissolved in the milk, 
the flour, spice, and lastly the beaten whites. Dredge the fruit with 
flour and add. Beat all well. Bake in two loaves. This will keep a 
long time. 

Old-fashioned Ging-erbread. — Cream a cupful of good butter and 
add to it gradually 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar. When as light as 
possible, add a teaspoonful of ginger, a cupful of milk in which three- 
quarters of a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved, and then 4 cup- 
fuls of sifted flour, adding it gradually. Butter a large baking tin 
thoroughly, spread the batter very thin, and bake brown in a mod- 
erate oven. Cut these while quite hot into squares, and take them 
from the pan. 

Soft Gingerbread. — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of boiling water, 
1 tablespoon of butter or lard in the hot water, half teaspoon of 
soda, half teaspoon of ginger, flour enough to make a batter as thin 
as griddle cakes. 

Ginger Layer Cake. — One cupful molasses, 2 egg yolks, three- 
quarters teaspoonful soda dissolved in 1 cup boiling water. Butter 
the size of an egg, 1 teaspoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, half 
teaspoonful allspice. Bake in layers, and put together with frosting 
made from the whites of the eggs. 

Card Gingerbread. — One-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sour 
milk, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 egg, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 1 



COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 



403 



teaspoonful of ginger, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. Add one-half 
tablespoonful of water and 3 scant cups of sifted flour. Beat the 
butter to a cream, add the sugar, then the salt and ginger, now the 
egg well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the water and stir into the 
sour milk and add to the mixture in the bowl. Beat the flour in grad- 
ually. Take one-half the dough and roll out about half an inch 
thick. Cut in squares and bake about 8 minutes in a hot oven. 

Giug-er N^uts. — One quart of New Orleans molasses should be 
seasoned with a tablespoonful of grated cinnamon, the same of black 
pepper, a teaspoonful of ground cloves, and the grated rinds of 2 
oranges and a lemon, stirred well together, and let stand a day. Then 
mix with it flour enough for a stiff batter, 4 teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, and a large spoonful of lard. Roll into strips as thick as 
your finger, and cut into nuts half an inch long. Bake brown, and 
keep apart so that they will not stick. 

Gring-er Cakes. — Mix half a cupful of butter and lard each. Dis- 
solve a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water, and stir 
into it a cupful of 
molasses; add to 
the butter and lard, 
a teaspoonful of 
extract of ginger 
and a teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon ; 
mix well; pour 
over a cup of boil- 
ing coffee, and add 
flour to make a soft 
dough. Roll out 
half an inch thick, 
cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven for 15 minutes. 

Ginger Gems. — Beat half cup of butter to a cream ; heat slightly 
1 cup of molasses; add to it half cup of boiling water; take all from 
the fire, and add half teaspoon of soda; pour this over the butter; 
add 1 tablespoon of ginger, and sufficient flour to make a batter that 
will drop from a spoon (about 1^4 cups); add a level teaspoon of 
cinnamon, same of baking powder, and bake 20 minutes in gem pans 
in a moderate oven. 




Nutmeg Grater. 



404 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 

Soft Molasses Cookies. — Two cups of New Orleans molasses, 1 
cup of sugar, 1 cup of sour milk, two-thirds cup of butter, 1 egg, 2 
teaspoons of soda, tablespoon of ginger, 1> cups of flour; don't get 
batter too stiff, but soft as you can handle. Half pint cup is used in 
this recipe. 

Spiced Molasses Cookies. — One cup molasses, half cup of butter, 
half cup of sugar, 3 tablespoons of sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of vinegar; 
mix all together and boil ; let cool, and mix 1 teaspoon of soda in till 
it foams; 1 teaspoon of ginger, half teaspoon of allspice, half teaspoon 
of cloves ; one-half nutmeg ; mix into a dough that can be rolled out ; 
cut with biscuit cutter, and bake on floured tin 10 minutes. Very nice. 

Viiieg"ar Molasses Cookies (no shortening). — One large cup of 
molasses, 1 medium cup of sugar, 2 eggs, salt, little vanilla, any kind 
of spice preferred. I use cinnamon and nutmeg, 3 tablespoons of 
vinegar, 1 heaping tablespoon of soda, flour enough to roll ; sift soda 
in flour. They will be brittle and nice. 

Drop Ging-er Cookies. — One cup molasses, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup 
butter, 1 cup milk, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons cream 
of tartar, 1 teaspoon saleratus, a little salt, flour to stiffen ; bake in 
cups or small tins, or drop from a teaspoon into a buttered baking 
pan. Leave about 3 inches space between the cakes, so that they 
have room to spread. 

Ginger-snaps (that will keep Hard). — One cupful butter, 1 
cupful lard, 1 cupful brown sugar, 1 pint molasses, 1 cupful butter- 
milk, 2 level teaspoonfuls soda, 2 cupful s flour; use more, if neces- 
sary, to roll out; 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon 
and allspice mixed. This is a large rule; half of it will be enough 
for an ordinary family. 

Our Ginger Snaps. — 1 cupful sugar, 2 cupfuls molasses, half 
cupful butter, half cupful lard, 1 cupful warm water, 1 teaspoonful 
soda, 1 teaspoonful each ginger and cinnamon, 1 whole nutmeg, 
grated ; flour to make stiff enough to roll out. 

Ginger Snaps. — One-half cup of butter, half cup of lard, 1 cup 
of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 1 teaspoon of salt, 
1 of soda, 1 of vinegar, half cup of milk. Put all but soda and milk 
in tin on stove ; let it come to a boil ; when it has stood a moment 
off the stove, add soda dissolved in milk, and flour enough to roll thin 




Puddings are prepared in many ways, be- 
ing either boiled, steamed or baked. Boiled 
puddings are lighter when boiled in a cloth, 
sufficient room being allowed for the contents 
to swell. A good pudding bag may be made of firm 
white drilling, tapering from top to bottom and 
rounded on the corners. Sew up on the machine, 
and fell the seams, which should be on the outside when used. A tape 
for tying may be fastened to one seam a little way from the top. 

The materials must be well worked together. Put in the bag 
which must have first been dipped in hot water, slightly wrung out 
and floured bountifully on the inside, being sure that the opening has 
its share to prevent water entering. This flour forms a sort of paste 
that excludes the water and prevents the pudding sticking to the bag. 
Remember that rice, meal, bread crumbs, etc., swell a great deal, and 
leave plenty of space in tying. 

Put an inverted saucer in the bottom of the kettle to prevent the 
pudding burning or adhering to the kettle. Then put in the pudding 
and cover with boiling water. Cover the kettle and keep the water 
boiling. If it stops for an instant, the pudding will be heavy. Add 
more water carefully as it is needed, always from a boiling tea-kettle, 
being sure that the pudding bag is constantly covered. Move the 
bag once or twice to keep it from sticking. 

When done, dip the bag quickly in cold water, untie and turn the 
pudding out. This should be done just before serving. Same rule 
applies to dumplings. If a tin pudding mould or an earthen bowl is 
used instead of a cloth or bag, grease well both mould and cover. 
Lard is better than butter for this because it is free from salt. If a 
bowl is used, butter it well, and not quite fill with the pudding mix- 
ture, leaving room to swell. Wet a cloth in hot water, flour on inner 
side and tie tightly over the bowl, meeting under the bottom. If a 
tin pail is used, butter, put in the pudding mixture, place a floured 
cloth over the top and then press on the pail cover. If mould, pail 

405 



406 PUDDINGS. 

or bowl is used, the water should not quite reach the top. When 
done, plunge for a moment in cold water, turn out and serve immedi- 
ately. 

To steam a pudding put it in a tin pan or an earthen dish, tie a 
cloth over the top, dredged with flour, and set in the steamer. This 
cloth is not always necessary, and, indeed, where the pudding is very 
light and rises above the mould, the cloth would be in the way. The 
steamer lid should conduct the steam safely down the sides of the 
steamer. 

Steamed puddings have many advantages over boiled ones, being 
lighter, more digestible and capable of being re-heated by steaming 
for the next day. Cover the steamer closely. Never uncover it 
while cooking, and keep the water under the steamer constantly boil- 
ing. Do not jar the kettle while the pudding is cooking. Boiled or 
steamed puddings take about twice as long to cook as baked ones. 

Puddings boiled in a mould or basin do not need quite as stiff a 
batter as those boiled in a bag. Never wash a pudding bag with 
soap. Use simply clean, clear water, drying quickly and keep in a 
clean place. Any pudding made from suet must be eaten as warm as 
possible, since if cool the suet hardens and becomes somewhat " tal- 
lowy." To add the fruit to a baked pudding after it has begun to 
thicken in the oven will keep it from settling to the bottom of the 
dish. Many baked pudding recipes are quite as good boiled or 
steamed. 

Pudding Sauces. 

Unfermented fruit juice may be used for flavoring pudding sauces, 
instead of wine or brandy. The juice from canned or stewed fruit 
may be used, if none has been specially prepared. In some cases, 
where wine is given in a recipe, the juice of a lemon may be substi- 
tuted, or a glass of rose water. 

Hard Sauce. — I. Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, creamed to- 
gether, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; add to butter and 
sugar and beat lightly until thoroughly mixed ; divided into 3 parts, 
flavor 1 part with vanilla, 1 part with grated chocolate or cocoa, 
about 2 teaspoons, and 1 part with extract of strawberry, so that the 
3 parts will be different colors. Butter the mould or bowl. Put in 
the chocolate, then the vanilla and lastly the strawberry ; set away to 
cool ; when ready to serve, dip the sides of the mould in hot water^ 



i 



PUDDINGS. 407 

turn out on a plate, cut through it in slices and lay on each portion 
of the pudding. Very fine and ornamental. 

Hard Sauce. — II. Beat 1 cup of powdered white sugar and one- 
half cup butter together until thoroughly mixed ; the longer it is 
beaten the whiter it becomes. Sprinkle with nutmeg or grated 
orange or lemon peel. Instead it may be flavored while beating, and 
may be colored by the addition of fruit juices. Vanilla may be used 
for flavoring. 

Gold Sauce (Hard). — One-half cup of butter creamed with 1 
cupful of brown sugar. Smooth in shape and grate nutmeg over the 
top. The yolk of 1 egg may be beaten up with it, and is a very nice 
addition. 

Hard Sauce (Silver). — Half cup of butter, creamed with 1 cup of 
powdered sugar. Flavor with lemon juice or lemon extract. The 
stiffly-beaten white of an egg stirred in with this is an improvement. 
Mound it up nicely in a pretty dish. Keep in a cool place until served. 

Creamy Sauce. — Beat 4 ounces of butter to a cream, and add 
gradually 8 ounces of powdered sugar. Beat again until very, very 
light, and add gradually 1 gill of cream, the grated rind of one lemon 
and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Turn into a dish and let harden. 

Beehive Sauce. — One- half cup of butter, 2 cups of fine sugar, 
juice and peel of 1 lemon, half teaspoon of nutmeg extract, quarter 
cup of cranberry syrup : make hard sauce in the usual way by cream- 
ing the butter and sugar; before adding the flavoring take out 3 table- 
spoons to be colored, add lemon and spice to the larger quantity; 
color the less by beating in the cranberry syrup until it is a rich pink; 
shape the white sauce into a conical mound, roll a sheet of note paper 
into a long, narrow funnel, tie a string around it to keep it in shape, 
fill with colored sauce ; squeeze it gently through the small end, be- 
ginning at the base, and winding round the cone to the top, guiding 
it so the white will show prettily between the pink ridges. The 
effect is pleasing. Serve very cold. 

Plain Fruit Pudding- Sauce. — One cupful brown sugar, 1 cupful 
good molasses, half cupful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour; juice and 
grated rind of 1 lemon, half grated nutmeg, half teaspoonful cinna- 
mon, 1 teacupful boiling water. Stir all the ingredients together, 
adding the water last. Put in a saucepan and let boil until clear, 
stirring constantly. Straining is an improvement. 



408 PUDDINGS. 

Caraiiu'l Sauoe. — Put half cup of sugar in a pan, stir over fire till 
melted and light brown, add half cup boiling water and simmer 10 
minutes. Flavor with lemon, vanilla or rose-water. 

Plain Cornstarch Sauce. — One cupful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful 
cornstarch, half cupful butter, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, 1 teaspoonful 
lemon extract. Stir together. Add boiling water until the required 
consistency; stirring constantly; half teaspoonful cinnamon, and half 
teaspoonful grated nutmeg may be used in place of lemon and vanilla. 

Eg-g- Sauce. — Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch ; 1 large cupful sugar ; 
2 eggs, beaten separately; pinch of salt; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 
quart boiling water. Stir together, reserving the whites of the eggs. 
Cook until thickened. Beat the eggs to a froth, and stir through the 
sauce. Nice for steamed puddings. 

Foaming- Sauce. — Two-thirds of a cup of sugar, 1 egg ; beat to- 
gether very light with half a wineglass of sherry wine. Just before 
sending to the table add half a cup of boiling milk. For all kinds of 
puddings, very nice. Boiling water may be used instead of milk. 

AVine Sauce. — One cupful of butter, 2 of powdered sugar, half a 
cupful of wine. Add the sugar gradually, and when very light add 
the wine, which has been made hot, a little at a time. Place the bowl 
in a basin of hot water and stir for 2 minutes. The sauce should be 
smooth and foamy. 

Brandy Sauce. — One quart of boiling milk and water, lj4 table- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch wet with cold water ; stir it in the milk and 
water, boil 5 minutes, add 1 cup of granulated sugar, a little salt, 
tablespoonful of butter, juice of lemon, wineglass of brandy. 

Lemon Sauce. — One cupful sugar, half cupful butter, 1 egg, well 
beaten; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind; 1 cupful boiling water. 
Cream the butter and sugar together, add the other ingredients and 
beat, then stir in the boiling water. Put in a tin pail and keep hot 
over steam. Nice for steamed puddings or dumplings. 

Puddings. 
Ancestral Eng-lish Plum Pudding. — One pound of raisins, 
stoned ; 1 pound currants, washed ; 1 pound chopped suet, rubbed with 
4 tablespoonfuls of flour ; 1 pound sugar ; 1 pound bread crumbs ; 
half pound blanched almonds, chopped ; 1 ounce grated nutmeg; 1 
tablespoonful salt ; 2 ounces citron, chopped ; 1 ounce lemon peel, 



PUDDINGS. 409 

shredded;! ounce orange peel, shredded. Mix these ingredients. It 
will be a saving of time to prepare this a day ortwo beforehand. Cover 
the bowl air-tight and keep in a cool place. If wine is used in the 
family, pour over all 1 cupful of sherry wine before putting away. A 
glass of rosewater may be substituted. When ready to cook the pud- 
ding, add one-half pound of flour, 8 well-beaten eggs, and sufficient 
thin sweet cream or rich milk to moisten the mixture sufficiently. 
Boil or steam 6 or 8 hours. Serve hot with vanilla sauce, hard 
sauce, wine or brandy sauce. 

English Plum Pudding-. — Two pounds currants, 2 pounds stoned- 
chopped raisins, 1 pound chopped suet, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound 
sifted flour, half pound chopped citron, half pound fine bread crumbs, 
1 large cupful molasses, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 
half teaspoonful cloves, 3 grated nutmegs, 2 tablespoonfuls baking 
powder, 8 eggs, juice of 3 lemons, 1 cupful of brandy. One wine 
glass of rosewater may be used in place of the brandy, or it may be 
entirely omitted. Mix the flour, sugar and spices and molasses, then 
add the well-beaten eggs, next the suet and juice of lemons, then the 
fruit ; mix well ; next add the 2 tablespoonfuls of baking powder and 
the brandy, the mixture to be quite stiff. If there is not sufficient 
moisture, use a little rich, sweet milk to thin it. Then put in a well- 
greased mould or a large tin pail, keep covered tightly, steam 10 
hours ; as the water evaporates add more ; it is very excellent, having 
been used in one family more than 50 years. 

Thanksg-iving' Pudding. — Twelve crackers rolled and soaked 
over night in 2 quarts of milk. In the morning add 4 well-beaten 
eggs, 1 cup of molasses, 1 pound boiled and seeded raisins, half 
pound sliced citron (half pound of currants may be substituted for 
the citron), 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful 
grated nutmeg, half teaspoonful cloves, 1 tablespoonful butter. Bake 
slowly 4 hours in buttered pudding dish. 

Sauce. — Beat whites of 4 eggs light, but not stiff, add 2 cups of 
powdered sugar and 2 small teaspoons of vanilla. Turn over this 2 
cups of boiling milk. Lemon juice is nice if vanilla is disliked. 
Beehive Sauce may used, or f4ard Sauce, No. I. 

Bread and Fruit Pudding. — Butter stale slices of bread ; lay in 
pudding dish alternately with canned cherries or berries, or stewed 
apples ; bake half an hour ; serve with sauce, like cottage pudding. 



410 PUDDINGS. 

Let the fruit form the toj) layer. Ceinned fruit of any kind is nice 
for this. 

Roly-Poly Piiddii»g-. — One pint of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, three-quarters 
cup of milk. Sift the dry ingredients together, chop in the butter, 
stir in the milk till stiff enough to roll out, roll out in a square, spread 
with butter and jelly or jam of any kind, roll it up and steam half an 
hour. Serve with lemon or vanilla sauce. 

Wlxortleberry Putldiug-. — Take a pint of milk, 4 eggs, well 
beaten, 12 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir them well together, 
then add 3 quarts of berries Flour a cloth, tie the pudding in it 
very close, and boil it 2^ hours. Serve with hard sauce. 

Strawberry Pudding-. — 1 pint of milk, 3^ cups of flour, 3 eggs, 
half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, melted, 2 heaping tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 pint of strawberries. Beat the eggs, 
whites and yolks together, until light, then add the milk, then the 
flour, and beat until smooth. Then add the butter, melted, salt and 
baking powder. Drain the berries, dredge them with flour. Stir 
them into the pudding and turn into a greased pudding mould. Cover 
and stand in a pot of boiling water and boil continuously for 3 hours. 
If the water evaporates in the pot replenish with boiling. Serve with 
butter, or any preferred sauce. 

ludiau Pudding-, Baked. — Scald 1 quart of milk ; thicken when 
partly cool with 1 cup of Indian corn-meal, 2 beaten eggs, 1 table- 
spoonful wheat flour, 1 cup of molasses or 1 cup of sugar (molasses 
is best). Salt and ginger to taste. Turn over it in the pudding dish 
1 cup of cold milk. Do not stir it afterward. Bake slowly 2 or 
3 hours. 

Plain Batter Pudding. — One cup of sour milk or cream, half 
cup of molasses, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 2^/^ cupfuls flour, 
half teaspoonful salt, 2 even teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved in hot 
water. Mix molasses and butter together, and beat until very light. 
Stir in the cream or milk, and salt; make a hole in the flour, pour in 
the mixture. Stir down the flour gradually until it is a smooth bat- 
ter. Beat in the soda water thoroughly, and boil at once in a buttered 
mould, leaving room to swell. It should be done in 1 Yi hours. Eat 
hot with a good sauce. Raisins or currants may be added. Cherries 
or gooseberries dried in sugar may be used instead of raisins. 



PUDDINGS. 411 

Blueberry Batter Pudding-. — Two cupfuls of milk, half cupful 
of molasses, 2 eggs, 6 cupfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 quart 
of blueberries, 1 heaping teaspoonful of soda stirred in the molasses. 
Wash and drain the blueberries and roll them in part of the flour. 
Stir together thoroughly and steam 3 hours. Serve with a hot lemon 
or vanilla sauce, or a butter sauce. 

Graham Batter Pudding-. — One cupful of sweet milk, 1 cupful 
of sour milk, 1 cupful of molasses with 1 teaspoonful of soda stirred 
in it, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of salt. Thicken with 
Graham flour and add 2 cupfuls of well-washed English currants. 
Steam 3 hours and serve with hot sour sauce. 

Cottage Pudding, Balced. — One egg, 1 cupful of sugar, 1 cupful 
of milk, 1 pint of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of salt, 2 
heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half cup of dried currants or 
chopped raisins ; stir all together, and bake in an oblong bread pan. 
Cut in square pieces, and serve with a hot milk sauce, or any other 
preferred one. Half teaspoonful of soda, and 1 teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar, may be used in place of baking powder. 

Cottage Pudding, Steamed. — Use the above rule. Pour into a 
quart basin and steam one hour. Serve with a hot sauce. One cup 
sour milk, and 1 teaspoonful of soda, may be used in place of sweet 
milk and baking powder. 

Bread Pudding. — One pint of milk, 1 cup of stale bread crumbs, 
2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 teaspoon of flavoring, 1 egg. Warm, the 
milk. Butter the dish and put in the crumbs. When the milk has 
cooled a little, add the sugar, flavoring, and well-beaten egg. Pour 
it over the crumbs. Let it soak half an hour. Bake in a hot oven 
30 minutes, or until golden brown. 

Fruit Bread Pudding. — Add to the above quantities half cup 
of raisins (stoned), half cup of currants, and a small piece of citron, 
cut in narrow strips. Butter the dish, make a pattern on the bottom 
with the fruit, then carefully cover it with half the crumbs. Pour 
over a little of the custard, then the rest of the crumbs, and all the 
custard. When baked, slip a knife around the edge and turn it out. 

Meringue Bread Pudding. — Beat the yolks of 4 eggs light ; 
add gradually a cup of granulated sugar, beating all the while, and 
the grated rind of a lemon. Mix a pint of bread crumbs with a quart 
of milk ; pour this on the eggs and sugar. Mix well, and bnke in a 



412 PUDDINGS. 

moderate oven until stiff. When done, make a meringue of the whites 
of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Heap on the 
pudding, and brown in a quick oven. When using cake crumbs, 
use tlie yolks of 2 eggs, and one-half cup of granulated sugar. 

Queen's Pudding-. — One pint fine bread crumbs, 1 quart of milk, 
1 cupful sugar, 4 egg yolks, well beaten; grated rind of 1 lemon, 
butter size of an egg. Do not let it bake until watery. Whip the 
whites of the eggs, with 1 cup sugar, to a stiff froth; add to this the 
juice of a lemon. Spread over the pudding a layer of jelly or sweet- 
meats, spread the whites of the eggs over this, put in the oven and 
brown. Serve cold. Sweet cream, flavored with lemon, is nice to 
serve with it, but it is very nice without sauce. 

Aunt Mary's Pudding-. — Half fill a pudding dish with slices of 
baker's bread, well-buttered. Pour over the whole a custard made in 
the proportion of 1 egg to 1 pint of milk. Sweeten and flavor it to 
taste. Let stand a few minutes before baking, with a weight on the 
bread to keep it under the milk. Bake. This may be varied by 
spreading each slice of bread with jam or jelly liberally, or even 
by scattering raisins between them before pouring the custard over. 
Cake that is dry may be used, or both cake and bread. Steam or boil. 

Quick Cracker Pudding. — Break fine half a dozen common 
crackers, and pour enough boiling water over them to cover, 1 quart 
of milk, 3 eggs, three-quarters cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a 
small piece ofbutter. Flavor with vanilla. Boil 5 minutes in a farina 
kettle, instead of baking. One egg may be omitted if they are scarce, 
and two more crackers added. 

Orandniother's Rice Pudding. — One cup of rice, 2 cupfuls of 
milk, 2 cupfuls of water, 1 cupful molasses, 1 even teaspoonful salt, 
one-half nutmeg grated, 1 beaten egg. In mixing use one-half of the 
milk with molasses, etc., then put in oven to bake. After it has been 
in the oven one-half to three-quarters of an hour, stir thoroughly, 
then add the rest of the milk, only stirring slightly at the top so as 
to form a whey like Indian pudding. Bake about 2 hours in a mod- 
erate oven. Best to mix in the morning and let stand on the back 
of the stove until ready to bake to swell the rice ; bake in an earthen 
pudding dish. 

Danish Tapioca Pudding. — Put into l}4 pints of cold water half 
a teacupful of pearl tapioca and let it soak for half an hour, after 



PUDDINGS. 413 

which boil it until clear and soft, which will take about an hour, stir- 
ring frequently while boiling ; add a quarter of a teacupful of sugar, 
half a tumbler of currant jelly and a little salt, steadily stirring until 
all the jelly is dissolved. Put into a mould and serve cold with cream 
and sugar. 

Chocolate Corustarcli Pudding'. — One quart of milk, 4 heaping 
tablespoons of cornstarch, a little salt, bake in double boiler till very 
thick; cool so as to cut nice. Sauce. — Dissolve 3 tablespoonfuls of 
grated chocolate in Ij^ cups of boiling milk; beat 1 egg, one-half 
cup of sugar, stir on the stove until it thickens about like cream; use 
vanilla flavoring. Let the pudding cool in small moulds, teacups, 
turn out in saucers and pour the sauce around them. 

Lieiuoii Corustarcli Pudding. — One tablespoon of cornstarch, 1 
teacup of boiling water, 1 egg, sugar to taste, 1 teaspoon of butter, 
juice and grated rind of a small lemon; mix the cornstarch with a 
little cold water, add the boiling water and let it boil 10 minutes; put 
in the sugar and pour the mixture on the yolk of the egg well 
beaten ; add the lemon juice and grated rind. Stir again while on 
the fire, not allowing it to burn. As soon as it becomes thick, re- 
move it and pour into forms or moulds. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Boiled Lemon Pudding-. — Two cupfuls dried bread crumbs, 1 
cupful powdered beef suet, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 4 eggs, well beaten, 
1 cupful sugar, juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 large cupful milk. 
Soak the bread crumbs in the milk, add the suet, beat eggs and sugar 
together, and these well into the soaked bread. To these put the 
lemon, lastly the flour, beaten in with as few strokes as will suffice to 
mix up all into a thick batter. Boil 3 hours in a buttered mould. 
Eat hot with hot sauce, any preferred kind. 

Brown Betty. — I. Butter a dish and put in alternate layers of 
bread crumbs and sliced apples. Put butter, sugar and cinnamon on 
each layer of apples. Cover closely, steam three-quarters of an hour, 
uncover and brown quickly. Eat with hot sauce or whipped cream. 

Brown Betty. — II. Take 5 large and tart apples; pare and slice 
them. Put a layer of apples in a deep pudding dish, then a layer of 
fine bread crumbs and so on until the apples are used. Put one-half 
cup of brown sugar and small bits of butter over the top. Grate a 
little nutmeg over them, turn on a cup of sweet milk. Bake 1 hour 
until nicely browned. 



414 PUDDINGS. 

Chocolate Pudding-. — Add 2 tablespoons of boiling water to 2 
ounces of chocolate. Let it melt over the fire ; then add a quart of 
creamy milk. Half cream is none too rich. Sweeten to taste ; add a 
little salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Last stir in the well- 
beaten yolks of 8 eggs. Bake until set ; then cover with a meringue 
made from the whites of the eggs beaten very light, sweetened with 
powdered sugar and delicately flavored with vanilla. Let the me- 
ringue brown in a very quick oven. To be eaten cold. 

Cabinet Pudding-. — Beat 4 eggs and mix with 3 teacups of milk 
and one-half a cup of sugar; grease a pudding pan; sprinkle the 
bottom with stoned raisins and cover with a layer of stale sponge 
cake; pour the custard over this and steam 1 hour; turn out and 
serve hot with cream sauce. 

Sweet Potato Pudding. — One pound of sweet potatoes boiled 
and mashed, one-half cupful of molasses or sugar, 2 well-beaten eggs, 
1 large tablespoonful of butter, 1 lemon, juice and grated rind, 1 pint 
sweet milk. Cream the butter and sugar ; mix with the other ingre- 
dients, adding the milk last. Beat until light. Bake one-half hour. 
It can be baked in a pie crust if liked. Serve hot with lemon sauce, 
or cold without sauce. 

Five Minute Pudding. — Two eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Break eggs 
on sugar and beat to a cream ; sift in the flour and baking powder, 
which should be previously mixed together ; pour into a greased tin 
and bake 5 minutes ; roll up with a layer of any kind of jam. 

Green Corn Pudding. — One pint finely cut green corn, or 1 can 
of corn, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 
small half-cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt. Melt the butter ; mix the 
ingredients. Bake one-half hour in a moderate oven. If the kernels 
of green corn are split before cutting from the ear, it will be fine 
enough. No sauce. 

Rhubarb Pudding. — Chop rhubarb very fine ; put in a pudding 
dish, sprinkle thoroughly with sugar. Make a batter of 1 cup of 
sour milk, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, melted, and half tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk ; add flour to make the thick- 
ness of cake batter, and pour over the rhubarb. Bake, and turn out 
a plate so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with cream and 
sugar. The batter may be made of sweet milk and baking powder. 



i 



BLANC MANGE 




In making custards or custard pud- 
dings, the eggs and the sugar should be 
thoroughly beaten together before any 
milk or seasoning is added. A custard 
should never quite reach the boiling point, as it is liable 
to curdle. Some cooks add a little cornstarch to the cus- 
tard to prevent curdling or wheying. It also saves in 
eggs, but others do not like the taste. A double boiler is very much 
better to use for custards. A boiler custard need not be cooked until 
very thick, as it thickens while cooling. It is well to allow boiled 
custard to cool before flavoring. Less extract will be needed, and the 
flavor will be more delicate. When beaten eggs are to be mixed with 
hot milk, as in making gravies or custards, dip the hot milk into the 
beaten eggs a spoonful at a time, stirring well each time, until the 
eggs are well thinned, then add both together: this will prevent the 
eggs from curdling. For all manner of home-made flavoring, see the 
hints at beginning of Cakes. There are so many dainty flavorinr^s 
that the coarser spices are left for the heavier richer puddings. The 
juices of various fruits, coffee, tea, and caramel, may be added to 
the list of flavors. 

Coffee Flavoring-. — To flavor 1 quart of custard, take 2 heaping 
tablespoonfuls of Mocha coffee, ground quite fine and measured after 
grinding. If possible, the coffee should have been browned and 
ground the day it is used. Pour the quart of milk boiling hot over 
the coffee, beat the whole thoroughly for two or three minutes over 
the fire. Remove from stove, cover and let it stand where it will 
cool; then strain. This gives a very delicate and delicious flavor. 
If it is to be used for ice-cream, a mixture of half cream and half 
milk can be poured over the coffee. 

Caramel Flavoring-. — A caramel flavor is very easily made, and 
is excellent for custards, ice-creams and pudding sauces. Take 2 
heaping tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar and 1 of water. Stir 
them over the fire in a saucepan until they begin to turn brown, and 

415 



416 CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. 

when the mixture is thoroughly melted, and has become a rich golden 
brown, which will be in 2 or 3 minutes, add the milk of the custard 
or ice-cream, which it is desired to flavor, and stir the whole over the 
fire till the caramel has melted evenly into the milk. In the case of 
a sauce, add a syrup made with a cup of sugar and a cup of water, 
and well flavored with a little cinnamon and a lemon peel, and stir 
until the whole is well mixed. 

Boiled Custard. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls 
sugar. Pinch of salt and flavor to suit. Scald the milk, put in the 
eggs and sugar ; do not boil, but stir until it thickens ; when cool 
enough pour into glasses. If wished richer, 5 eggs may be used to 
1 quart of milk. 

Baked Custard. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Pinch of salt and flavoring to suit. Beat the eggs and sugar 
together, add the milk. Pour in a pudding dish. Do not bake too 
long or the custard will whey. Test it by sinking a spoon in it ; as 
soon as it comes out free from any of the custard it is done. Another 
egg added will make it richer. It can also be baked in a pudding 
dish lined with a rich paste, if desired. 

French Custard. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Beat half cupful sugar 
and the yolks of 6 eggs together and stir in the milk. Stir on the 
fire until thick (a double boiler is best, but a pail in a kettle of boiling 
water can be used). Flavor with vanilla, coffee or almond. Wh.en 
cold pour in a glass bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, heap on 
a large dish and set in the stove to brown, then slip on the custard. 
Set on ice and serve with sponge cake. 

Freuoh Tapioca Custard. — Five dessertspoonfuls of tapioca, 1 
quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 heaping cup of sugar, 
a little salt. Soak the tapioca in a pint of cold water 5 hours. Let 
the milk come to a boil. Add the tapioca. Stir until boiling hot, 
then add gradually the yolks of the eggs and sugar. Boil again. 
Let it cook until thick, but not too long. Pour into a dish and stir 
gently the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 

Cream Custard. — To 1 quart of cream add 6 eggs, slighth' beaten. 
Strain the cream and eggs into a double boiler, add 6 tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and boil 10 minutes. When nearly cold add flavoring. 

Caramel Custard. — Brown half a cup of granulated sugar (be 
careful it does not burn), add 2 tablespoons of water, warm 1 quart 



CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. 417 

of milk, put browned sugar into it, add half a teaspoon of salt and 1 
teaspoon of vanilla extract, beat 6 eggs well and add last. Strain 
into greased bowls; set bowls in baking pan with water in it and 
bake about 20 minutes or until you can put a knife in it and draw it 
out without any of the custard adhering to it. Set in a cold place. 

Orang-e Custard. — Four well-beaten eggs, 2 oranges, juice of, 
and grated rind of 1, 1^ pints of rich milk, 1 cup of sugar. Beat 
all thoroughly together, adding the milk last. Stir gently over the 
fire until it thickens. Serve cold in custard cups. 

Bauaua Custard. — Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch blended in a 
little cold water, 1 cupful of white sugar, one-third cupful butter. 
Stir together and pour on gradually 1 quart of boiling water, stirring 
constantly. Add the yolks of 3 eggs beaten light, and keep over the 
fire until thick ; when cold add 4 or 5 bananas, sliced fine, put in 
cups ; beat the whites of the 3 eggs with 3 tablespoons of sugar; add 
to each cup, and brown. Flavor with either orange or lemon. This 
mixture can be made the same as lemon pie and meringue on the top, 

Blanc Mange. 

The rules for cooking custards are applicable to Blanc Mange. 

Blanc Maug-e. — I. Dissolve 1 ounce of Cox's gelatine in enough 
warm water to cover it. Stir it into 1 quart of rich milk, or cream 
and milk mixed. Sweeten with half cupful of sugar. Stir constantly 
over the fire until it comes to the boiling point. Flavor with lemon, 
vanilla or almond. Stir until almost cold. Pour in a mould and put 
in a cool place or on the ice ; it is pretty cooled in cups. Dip the 
moulds in hot water before pouring in the blanc mange. Very nice 
served with sweetened cream, whipped cream or soft boiled custard. 

Blanc Mange. — IL Make as above and when nearly cold beat in 
the whipped whites of 3 eggs, and set away to cool. Serve with a 
custard made of the yolks of the 3 eggs and 1 pint of milk, sweeten 
and flavor with the same flavoring used in the blanc mange. 

Cornstarch Blanc Mange. — One quart of sweet milk, heat part 
of it on the stove, and with the cold blend 4 tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch and half a cupful of sugar. Stir into the boiling milk smoothly, 
keeping over the fire until it thickens. Flavor to suit. Take from 
the stove and stir in the stififiy beaten whites of 3 egg^. Serve with 
a custard made of the 3 egg yolks and 1 pint of milk. If eggs are 
27 



418 CUSTARDS AND 15LANC MANGE. 

scarce, use one more tablespoonful of cornstarch and stir into the 
blanc mange 1 whole egg stiffly beaten. Serve with sweetened 
cream. 

Chocolate Blanc Mang-e. — Cover an ounce of gelatine with water. 
Boil 1 quart of milk, 4 ounces of chocolate, 1 cupful of sugar, 5 min- 
utes. Add the gelatine and boil 5 minutes longer, stirring constantly. 
Flavor with vanilla, and pour into moulds to cool. This dessert may 
be served with sweetened cream or a rich custard sauce. 

Chocolate Blanc Mange. — Four tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart 
milk, 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate, 1 teaspoonful vanilla; boil the milk, 
wet with cold milk the cornstarch, etc., and stir into the boiling milk. 
Cook 5 minutes and flavor with the vanilla. Serve with sweetened 
cream. 

Banana Blanc Mange. — Make a white custard as follows : Two 
tablespoonfuls cornstarch Avetted with enough cold water to dissolve 
it ; 1 cup granulated sugar, one-third cup butter ; stir together in a 
pudding mould or earthen dish and pour on enough boiling water to 
make thick custard ; beat the Avhites of 3 eggs to snow, stir into the 
custard and set it in the oven to bake for 15 minutes or for the same 
length of time in a pot of boiling water; set aside until perfectly 
cold ; then remove the slight crust that will have formed on the top ; 
have ready dish in which you are to serve your custard and some 
fresh, ripe bananas minced finely; mix with the custard and pour into 
the dish and add a meringue made of the beaten whites of 3 eggs and 
one-half teacupful pulverized pink sugar. Peaches may be used in- 
stead of bananas. 

Rhubarb Blanc Mang-e. — Two pounds rhubarb, cut up, 3 pints 
water; cook 15 minutes; strain and add 1 cup of sugar or more if 
desired. Add a little over one-half cup of sago and cook 20 min- 
utes. Put into moulds and set on ice. 

Almontl Blanc Mange. — Blanch one-half pound of almonds and 
rub to a paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of rose water and white sugar, 
about 1 tablespoonful to 4 or 5 almonds. Mix this paste with 1 pint 
of milk ; add 1 ounce of gelatine soaked in enough warm milk to 
cover it. Stir over the fire until thoroughly dissolved, then add an- 
other pint of milk ; let it boil up, strain, stir until partly cool, then 
prur in cups and put in a cold place to form. Serve with whipped 
crram or sweetened cream. 




ARIOTTES 



A JELLY or a Bavarian cream or 
any dish stiffened by gelatine, must not 
be moved while it is cooling. Mov- 
ing does no harm when it is in a liquid state, 
but if it is moved when it is half congealed a 
crack will result when it is finally turned out of the dish. 
The same result will follow if it is jarred when removing 
from the mould, and jarring and shaking is often resorted to in order 
to hasten its removal. 

The glutinous nature of gelatine causes it to stick to the mould, 
and it requires a little heat to melt it slightly before it will come out 
of the mould in the clear-cut form which it should have. The steam 
of the tea-kettle, so often resorted to, gives too much heat, and causes 
the form to be blurred in outline when it is turned out. The best 
method is to dip the mould into water as hot as the hand will bear 
comfortably for about half a minute, if it is a tin mould ; if earthen, 
for 2 or 3 minutes. While it is immersed in the water press the jelly 
around the edge of the mould to loosen it at the sides. Invert over 
it the platter or dish on which it is to be turned out and turn the two 
over together. If it fails to come out, wrap a hot cloth around it for 
a moment. It sometimes requires a little time to accomplish this 
perfectly, but the clear-cut outlines of the jelly or cream will repay 
the trouble. 

Whipped Cream. — This is very often served in connection with 
something else, but makes a delicious dessert by itself, or with fancy 
cakes. The first requisite is to have the cream icy-cold, and an hour 
or so before using put the large earthen bowl in which it is to be 
whipped, and the egg-beater (Dover egg-beater is good), where they 
will get perfectly cold. The bowl should have a round bottom. 
Cream will whip to 3 times its original bulk, if it is the right quality 
with which to start. Very thin cream will not whip at all. A very 
thick cream will not increase as much in bulk, besides there is danger 
of butter coming. If it is ver}^ thick, dilute it with nearly the same 
amount of fresh sweet milk. Medium cream is the best. It is well 

419 



420 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 

to set the bowl in a pan of cold water while beating. Whip it to a 
stiff froth. Do not skim off the froth as fast as it forms, as it will be 
liable to fall, but whip until all is stiff. About 5 minutes is usually 
sufficient. Beat in sugar in the proportion of an even cupful of pow- 
dered sugar to a pint of the unwhipped cream. The juice of half a 
lemon is a delicious flavoring. In this form it is also delicious for 
Charlotte-russe. If wished firmer, the beaten whites of 2 eggs can be 
whipped in. In this way it is not apt to fall. It should not be pre- 
pared until about an hour before dinner. Set on ice. Serve in fancy 
glasses and pass around assorted cakes. 

Leiiiou Cream. — Dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in a little 
water; add the juice and grated rind of a lemon, and 1 cup of sugar; 
on this pour 2^^ cups of hot water; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs 
and 1 whole egg; cook in double boiler until it thickens like custard, 
stirring constantly; when cool frost with 2 whites and brown in oven. 
To be eaten with spongecake. 

Lemou Sponge. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in a pint of warm 
water, strain and add the juice of 3 lemons, and I orange; one cup of 
sugar and the beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir over a slow fire until it 
just boils and turn into a mould. Can be made by using both yolks 
and whites of 2 eggs, but is paler in color, 

Orang-e Cream. — One orange, juice and grated rind; 1 pint of 
thin sweet cream; 1 cupful of white sugar; 4 yolks of eggs. Stir; 
heat the cream to boiling and pour in ; stir until perfectly cold ; whip 
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and spread over the top. Beat 
into this 1 tablespoonful of sugar. It is pretty served in small glasses 
with the frosting over each one. 

Cocoanut Cream. — Whip 1 pint of cream to a stiff froth. Have 
ready three-quarters of a box of gelatine which has been soaked in 
1 cup of milk for half an hour, and the milk heated until the gelatine 
is dissolved. Strain, and when cool add it to the cream with 1 cup 
of sugar and 2 cups of cocoanut, Either the desiccated cocoanut or 
the fresh nut grated can be used. Put the cream into a mould and 
set it on ice or in a very cold place. 

Coffee Cream. — Soak half a box of gelatine for 2 hours in a cup- 
ful of cold water. Put half a cupful of the best coffee, finely ground, 
in a pint of boiling milk, and let it stand 5 minutes. Then strain 
the milk through a thick cloth upon a cupful of sugar, and add to it 



CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 421 

the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir the whole over the fire until it 
is creamy, but not thick; remove from the heat and add the gelatine; 
stir the latter well to be sure that all is dissolved, and pour the cream 
through a soup strainer if it seems at all lumpy. Set away in a cool 
place, and when it is cold and begins to stiffen, stir briskly into it a 
pint of whipped cream and turn into a wet mould. This dessert re- 
quires no sauce, and is delicious to those wlio like coffee ; moreover 
it is quite inexpensive, a tea-cupful of cream being sufficient to make 
a pint of whip. 

Chocolate Cream. — I. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of gelatine 
in half a pint of hot water, add 1 cupful of white sugar, strain through 
a sieve. Whip 1 pint of sweet cream. Set on ice while you melt 2 
ounces of chocolate. Add chocolate to the gelatine, when it begins 
to stiften a little add the whipped cream. Pour all into a mould, and 
set on ice until firm. Serve with or without a rich custard. 

Chocolate Cream. — II. Take a pint of milk and 3 ounces of 
chocolate. Boil this with 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar until thoroughly 
mixed, then remove from the fire and add 4 eggs beaten light. Pour 
into a cold bowl to cool, and when cold, add a pint of cream beaten 
stiff, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Blackberry Cream. — To 1 pint of blackberries add 1 pint of 
water. Boil until tender, and then add 1 cup of sugar, 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of cornstarch, a pinch of salt. Stir until it boils. Flavor to 
taste. To be eaten with cream and sugar Raspberries can be made 
in the same manner. 

Strawberry Chocolate Cream. — Soak one-third of a box of Cox's 
gelatine in one-third cup of cold water, pour on a third of a cup of 
boiling water, add 1 cup of sugar and 1 pint of perfectly ripe straw- 
berries. Set in pan of ice-water to cool ; when cool and before it 
hardens add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Line a pretty dish with 
lady fingers, and when gelatine is hard turn into dish and serve with 
whipped cream. 

Vanilla Snow Egrg-s. — Beat stiff the whites of 6 eggs. Have on 
the fire a pint of milk sweetened and flavored with vanilla. When it 
boils drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoonfuls, and as soon as 
they become formed dip them out. Allow milk in saucepan to cool 
a little, then stir in yolks of the eggs slowly. When thick pour 
around the snowed eggs and serve cold. 



422 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 

Cream Charlotte Riisse. — This requires a lining of cake arranged 
in a bowl, a mould, or in any sort of dii>h preferred. Sponge cake, 
baked thin and divided when cold into two layers of equal thickness by 
a long, sharp knife, is considered most attractive, but pieces of any 
plain cake cut half an inch thick, or divided lady fingers, may be 
used to line the dish or mould. Charlottes are made with or without 
tops, according to taste or convenience ; and when the supply of cake 
is limited, stiff paper may be buttered and laid in the bottom of the 
mould, cake being placed at the sides. Whatever cake is cut off in 
trimming the forms to shape, may be crumbled and sprinkled over the 
bottom. Fill the forms with whipped cream seasoned with 4 table- 
spoonfuls of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of some favorite extract. 
To make sure that the whipped cream will be stiff, stir into it lightly, 
but thoroughly, with a spoon, the stiffly beaten whites of 2 eggs to 
each pint of the cream. Arrange the tops of the forms neatly, or 
cover them with a layer of cake and set them on ice. 

Charlotte Russe, — One pint of whipped cream, the whites of 2 
eggs, beaten. Dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of gelatine in 1 cup of cold 
water, sweeten with powdered sugar to suit the taste, and flavor with 
vanilla. Take a sponge cake and cut off all the crust, and divide the 
cake in two-inch pieces. Lay them in a large glass dish and turn the 
Charlotte russe over them. Make this at night, to be served the next 
day. Stir it all together well before turning it on the cake. Cool on 
ice, if possible. If in a mould, it can be turned out in shape ; or it 
can be moulded in a handsome glass dish and served in the same. 
Cocoanut grated over the top is an improvement. 

Hard Times Charlotte Russe. — One and one- half pints sweet 
rnilk. Set on fire to boil. Mix together in a dish the following arti- 
cles : One-half large cupful sugar, 1 beaten egg, 1 heaped tablespoon- 
ful cornstarch, one-half small cupful of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls grated 
chocolate, a pinch of salt. Blend smoothly. Pour gradually into the 
boiling milk. Let simmer a few moments, stirring all the time. In 
the meantime partly fill a large fruit dish with any kind or kinds of 
stale cake cut in pieces about an inch square. When the cream is 
nearly cold pour over the cake. Do this a few minutes before setting 
on the table, so that it will be cold when served. Dish out in saucers. 
If eggs are scarce, omit, and use an extra heaped tablespoonful of 
cornstarch. Flavor the cream with lemon or vanilla. 



CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 423 

Orange Charlotte Riisse. — One pint sweet cream, half box gel- 
atine, 1 cupful pulverized sugar, half cupful orange juice, or the juice 
of 3 large oranges. Soak the gelatine one hour in water enough to 
cover, then add a little boiling water to dissolve it. Whip the cream. 
Stir in the dissolved gelatine lightly, but thoroughly, then the sugar 
and the orange juice, a little at a time. Line a mould with slices of 
sponge cake and pour in the cream. Set in a cold place to congeal. 
This and many others of these fancy dishes are better for being made 
the day before, as by standing they grow firm. On this account they 
are desirable for Sunday desserts, or for elaborate dinners where there 
are many dishes that must be prepared the same day. 

Lemon Charlotte Russe. — Prepare precisely as above, substi- 
tuting the juice of 2 large or 3 small lemons in place of the orange 
juice, and adding one-half cupful more of sugar. 

Banana Charlotte Rii.sse. — Line the sides of a mould with sliced 
sponge cake and the bottom with sliced bananas ; sprinkle over them 
a little orange juice, and dust with powdered sugar; whip a pint of 
cream stiffly with a tablespoonful of sugar and flavor slightly with 
a few drops of the orange juice. Set on ice until served. The 
filling may be of some of the creams given before, in which case it 
can be turned out of the mould in nice shape. With the whipped 
cream it is apt to break. The beaten white of an egg will help make 
the whipped cream firmer. 

Snow Charlotte Russe. — Lay a few slices of stale cake that has 
been dipped quickly in milk on a dish in which it can be served. 
Beat stiff the whites of 4 eggs ; add a quarter pound of bleached and 
finely chopped almonds and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Pour 
over the cake slices and bake 10 minutes, but do not brown. 

Burnt Almond Charlotte Russe. — One cupful of sweet almonds, 
blanched and chopped fine, half a box of gelatine soaked 2 hours in 
half a cupful of water, 3 tablespoonfuls white sugar, l^i cupfuls of 
milk, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 eggs, yolks and whites separate, 1 quart of 
sweet cream. Put the 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar in a sauce. 




LITTLE oatmeal, Graham mush or other cereal 
may be converted into a dessert by adding sugar, 
milk and eggs in the desired amount, using 1 
egg to a cup of milk and an}" flavoring desired, 
and baking until the custard sets. It may then 
be served with cream or with pudding sauce. 

Cordials arc excellent for flavoring jellies and 
creams. They give a particularly pleasant and 
delicate flavor. Maraschino, which has the flavor of bitter cheiry, 
is much used. Curacao^ which tastes of orange peel, and Noyau, 
which has the flavor of peach kernels, are good flavoring cordials. 

Rice Meringue. — Boil half a teacupful of rice half an hour in 
water; drain water off, pour in half a pint of milk and a tablespoonful 
of butter. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and half a cupful of sugar together 
until light, mix with the rice, add the grated rind of 1 lemon and 2 
tablespoonfuls of juice; mix well together; set custard cups in a 
dripping-pan, fill them two-thirds full with the mixture, pour hot water 
in the dripping-pan and cook 15 minutes in a hot oven. Beat the 
whites of the eggs a few minutes, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar and beat again until stiff; fill each cup with the meringue, set 
in the oven and brown lightly. Serve cold in the cups. 

Tipsy Pudding-. — Haifa dozen little sponge cakes, 1 dozen mac- 
aroons. Make a thick custard with yolks of 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls 
of cornstarch and two-thirds of a pint of milk, sugar to taste. Boil 
the milk, mix the cornstarch with a little of it (milk) cold, stir into 
the hot milk ; when a little cool, add the beaten yolks and sugar, 
flavor to taste, and set to cool. Lay the sponge cakes in a glass dish, 
moisten with a wine glass of wine, sprinkle with sugar. Spread a layer 
of raspberry jam over this, then the macaroons, and pour the cold 
custard over. Heap the whites of the eggs, well beaten and a little 
sweetened over all. Place near ice to cool. 

Lemon Fluff. — Sweeten 1 pint of milk and flavor with vanilla ; 

beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stiff froth ; heat the milk, and when it 

boils take a tablespoon of the beaten whites and put it carefully on 

the milk ; tv.rn it over once, take out with a spoon or skimmer, and 

424 



DESSERTS. 



425 



put it on a sieve to drain ; continue this till all the egg- is used up. 
Now strain the milk and make it into a rich custard, using the yolks 
of the 7 eggs. When cold put pieces of egg whites on top and serve. 

Chocolate Custard. — One quart of milk, put over the fire in a 
double boiler. When it reaches boiling point, add 1 cupful sugar, 4 
tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. Boil gently 5 minutes ; add beaten 
yolks of 6 eggs, gradually stirring all the time. Do not let boil. As 
soon as thickened, remove from fire. When nearly cold flavor with 
vanilla to taste. Beat briskly 1 minute ; pour into custard cups ; whip 
the whites to a froth with powdered sugar and heap some upon each cup. 

Almond B'anc Mange. — Boil together 1 quart of milk, 4 table- 
spoonfuls each of cornstarch and sugar. When thick stir into it 30 
blanched and split almonds and mould. Serve with cream and sugar. 

Lemon Rice. — Take 1 cupful of rice, cover with boiling water 
and let simmer on the back of the stove till thoroughly done ; shake, 
do not stir, taking care to keep the grains nice 
and whole. Add the rind of 1 lemon and juice 
of 2 ; two scant cups of sugar. Set in the oven 
until the sugar is dissolved (which only takes 
a minute), then put in a wet mould to cool. 
Serve with sweetened cream. 

Rice witli Fig- Sauce. — Soak a cup of rice 
in 1 3^ cups of water for an hour ; then add a 
cup of milk, turn into an earthen dish and place 
in a steam cooker and steam for an hour. Stir 
occasionally with a fork the first 15 minutes. 

Fio Sauce. — Carefully look over, wash and cut fine enough good 
figs to make a cupful. Stew in a pint of water, to which has been 
added a tablespoonful of sugar, until they are 1 homogeneous mass. 
Put a spoonful of the hot fig sauce on each dish of rice when serving. 

Nut Cream. — Put 1 pint of milk in a saucepan over the fire. 
Moisten 2 tablespoonfuls of starch in a little cold milk; add to hot 
milk ; cook until thick; add 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoon- 
ful of rosewater, and pour it into the centre of 6 breakfast plates. 
Cover the top with chopped almonds, and put 1 drop of orange blos- 
som water on each. When cold, serve. 

Coffee Cup Custard. — Mix well 8 egg yolks with 8 ounces of 
sugar ; dilute with 6 custard cups of boiling milk and a good cupful 




42C 



DESSERTS. 



of black coffee; pass through a fine strainer, fill the cups and put 
them in a low pan with boiling water to half their height ; take off 
the froth that may rise to the surface, cover the j)an and let simmer 
gently for 20 minutes. When the custard is well set, let cool in the 
water, drain, wipe the cups and serve cold. 

Coflfee Jelly, with Sauce. — Two cupfuls clear, strong coffee ; 1 
cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of boiling water, one-half cupful cold water, 
one-half box of gelatine. Soak the gelatine in the cold water an 
hour ; stir in sugar, and pour over it the boiling water and hot coffee. 
Strain, and pour in a mould. When cold turn into a glass dish, and 
serve with a foaming sauce made as follows : 

Foaming Saticc. — One-half cupful boiling milk ; add 2 tablespoon- 
fuls sugar mixed with yolk of 1 egg. Stir until it thickens some ; 
remove from fire and add the well-beaten white, with 2 tablespoonfuls • 
sugar and grated rind of 1 lemon. 

Meriiig-iies. — Whisk the whites of 4 eggs to high froth, then stir 
into it one-half pound finely powdered sugar; flavor with royal ex- 
tract vanilla or lemon, repeat whisking until it 
will lie in a heap, then lay mixture on letter paper, 
in the shape of half an Qgg, moulding it with a 
spoon, laying each about half an inch apart. Then 
place paper containing meringues on piece of 
hard wood, put them into quick oven, do not 
close it, watch them ; when they begin to have 
yellow appearance, take out. Remove paper 
carefully from wood, let them cool for 2 or 3 
minutes, then slip thin knife very carefull}^ under 
one, turn it into your left hand, take another from the paper in the 
same way, join 2 sides which were next the paper together. The 
soft inside may be taken out with handle of small spoon, the shells 
filled with jelly, jam, or cream, then joined together as above, cement- 
ing them with some of the mixture. 

Piinipkin Custard. — Hubbard squash is richer and sweeter than 
pumpkin, and any left from dinner can be used for the custards. 1 
quart of hot milk, a large cupful of strained squash, a teaspoonful of 
butter and 1 of salt, a cupful of sugar in which half a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon and a pinch of ginger have been mixed, and 3 eggs, beaten 
light. Mix squash and milk, add the other ingredients, the eggs last, 




DESSERTS. 427 

and pour into custard cups, which must be set in a pan of hot water. 
Bake till firm, about half an hour, testing with a knife blade. If it 
comes out clean, they are done. Serve icy cold. 

Plum Pudding- Glace. — This is the most agreeable way of serv- 
ing plum pudding in summer. An ice-cream may be used for it, the 
best being a cream without flavor, and colored a light chocolate color. 
Cut plum pudding or rich fruit cake in slices, dip them in brandy and 
cut or break in tiny pieces. After the cream is frozen, stir in the 
plum pudding and pack. This pudding is sometimes served with a 
spoonful of whipped cream laid on each slice, and on the cream one 
or two candied cherries. 

Lemon Honey. — Lemon honey is a queer, old-fashioned dessert, 
which is easily made and delicious for a summer night country 
dinner. Stir the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4 eggs into a 
pound of granulated sugar. Add the juice of 3 lemons and the grated 
rinds of 2, and a scant 2 ounces of butter. Cook over a slow fire, 
stirring constantly, and when the mass is thick and clear like honey, 
pour it into custard cups and set in the ice-box. If you wish to make 
this dessert a trifle more elaborate, add a meringue to each cup be- 
fore setting away to cool It is also used as a cake filling. 

Custard Pudding. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Moisten 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of cornstarch into a little cold milk and stir with the boiling 
milk. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs and half a cup of sugar together and 
add to the milk. Take from the fire, flavor with a tablespoonful of 
vanilla, and pour into a pudding dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to 
a stiff froth, add 3 teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, heap on top 
of the pudding, and set in the oven for 5 minutes. Set on ice until 
very cold and serve. 

Vermicelli Dessert. — Put on 1 pint of milk with 2 ounces of 
desiccated cocoanut, and let it get quite hot, then add one-quarter 
pound of vermicelli ; let this cook till tender. Now add 2 ounces of 
well-washed and picked sultanas, put the mixture into a glass dish, 
pour over it 1 cup of cream, and sprinkle the whole over with bleached 
and chopped pistachio nuts. 

Pistache Cakes. — Perfectly delicious for afternoon tea or for a 
"high tea," are pistache cakes. Beat up 5 ounces each of butter and 
fine sugar, 6 ounces of flour, and 3 eggs well beaten, adding the flour 
and eggs alternately. Bake this mixture in a shallow tin. When 



428 DESSKRT^. 

quite cold, cut it into rounds with apricot or peach marmalade, and 
pile several each above the other. Cover the last layer with a little 
of the marmalade, and then sprinkle very thickly with blanched pis- 
tachio nuts. Fill the centre with whipped cream, strew it with nuts, 
and garnish the heap with little heaps of the cream and nuts. 

"My Own" Pudding-. — Set 1 quart of milk to boil ; while it is 
heating mix 1 cup of cornstarch with enough cold water to form it 
into a thick batter ; add to this 1 cup of sugar and the yolks of 4 
eggs ; take the milk from the fire and stir into it eggs, cornstarch and 
sugar , beat all together a few minutes, or long enough only to cook 
the eggs. Then take out the pudding, and while hot put over it a 
layer of jam or jelly. Have the whites of the eggs beaten light with 
1 cup of fine sugar ; put this over the jam and brown in the oven. 

Amber Pndding-. — Six large apples, 3 ounces of moist sugar, 1 
lemon, 2 ounces of butter, 3 eggs, puff paste, a few preserved cherries ; 
peel, core and slice the apples ; place them in a stewpan with the but- 
ter, sugar and lemon rind and let them stew slov/ly until tender; then 
rub them through a fine sieve ; line the edges of a pie dish with puff 
paste and decorate it tastefully; add the yolks of the eggs to the 
apples and pour the mixture into the pie dish ; bake it in a moderate 
oven about 20 minutes ; whip the whites very stiff and spread them 
over the apple ; dredge over a little white sugar, garnish with a few 
preserved cherries, then place the pudding in a cool oven to set the 
white of Ggg ; it will take about 10 minutes and should get a very 
light brown. 

Potato Cheese Cakes. — They are a most delicious dainty. One- 
fourth pound of freshly cooked potatoes well mashed. Add to that 
one-fourth pound of butter and one-fourth pound of white sugar. 
Then add 2 eggs, beating all the time ; then the juice of a lemon, the 
rind cut very fine, and one-fourth pound of currants well washed and 
dried. Put in the juice of the lemon last of all. Line small tart tins 
with puff paste, or pie plates will do. Put in the mixture. Don't 
put a cover on. Bake in a quick oven. 

Clabber. — In the summer clabber is usually served at least for 
dinner and ofttimes for supper. A particularly nice way of serving 
this is to have a bowl for each member of the family, into which 
strain the milk, and when it turns, i. e., becomes a smooth thick cake 
like blanc mange, serve in the .same dish, eaten with white sugar 



DESSERTS. 429 

sprinkled over it. This is really a delightful dessert, though so 
simple. 

Syllabub. — Syllabub is a very old-fashioned dish. To make it, 
dissolve half a pound of cut sugar in 1 teacupful of wine ; heat 3 
pints of cream lukewarm, pour the wine on it, holding it several feet 
above and pouring very slowly, so as to cause the cream to froth. 

Airy Nothing-. — Six egg whites ; 6 tablespoonfuls sugar ; 1 cupful 
jelly. Beat the egg whites ; then add the sugar ; beat for half an 
hour and then beat in the jelly and set on the ice. Serve in saucers 
with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. 

Moonshine. — Make 1 quart of rich cream very sweet, grate half 
a nutmeg over ; put into a glass dish, then beat very stiff 3 egg 
whites, add half a cup powdered sugar and sufficient currant jelly to 
color the froth. When thoroughly beaten and perfectly smooth drop 
the froth from a large spoon on the cream, and keep in a cool place 
until served. 

Fruit Desserts. 

Apple Mering-ue. — Stew a quart of sour apples, and add the 
juice and part of the grated rind of 1 lemon, together with sugar to 
suit the taste. Strain the apples through a colander and place them 
in a nice pudding dish. Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, to 
which add with a spoon 1 cupful of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla or lemon extract. Spread this frosting over the apples, and 
set the pudding in the oven to brown slightly, after which place it 
where it will become ice cold. The yolks of the eggs may be used, 
with the addition of 1 whole egg, to make a caramel custard in cups 
for the next day's dessert. 

Tutti Friitti Apples. — A choice dessert is made from large, well- 
flavored and rather tart apples. Pare the apples, take out the cores 
and put them in a baking pan. Sift over them after they begin to 
bake enough granulated sugar to coat the outsides. Bake until ten- 
der and somewhat brown, but take them from the oven while they 
are still whole. Put them in a flat and rather deep dish. Chop 2 
dozen blanched almonds, and mix with them 4 ounces of seeded and 
chopped raisins, and 2 tablespoonfuls of dried currants. Add to 
these a half cupful of water, the same quantity of sugar, the grated 
yellow rind of a lemon, and a dessertspoonful of lemon juice. Sim- 
mer half an hour, then boil hard for 10 minutes. Fill in the centre 



430 DESSERTS. 

of the apples with this mixture and pour that which is left over the 
outside. Serve cold with whipped cream. A mixture of chopped 
candied fruits may be added to a syrup and used in the same way. 

Apple Sponge. — Cover half a box of gelatine with cold water 
and allow it to stand for half an hour; then pour over it half a 
pint of boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Press a pint of .stewed 
apples through a sieve and mix with the gelatine ; add a pound of 
sugar, and stir until it melts; squeeze in the juice of 2 lemons ; turn 
the mixture into a tin pan ; set on ice until it begins to thicken. 
Beat the whites of 3 eggs ; stir into the apples ; beat all together 
until thick and cold. Pour into a mould and set on ice to harden. 
Serve with whipped cream or plain cream and sugar. 

Apple or Peaeh Meriiig-ue. — One quart of strained apple sauce, 

or 8 tart apples stewed soft and rubbed through a sieve. If canned 

^r^ ^-^^^ peaches are used, add a cupful of sugar, stew soft 

^^r ^^L ^^^ '^"^ through a sieve. For the apple, add 

[W ^m 1 cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of lemon or 

^>L- MM vanilla extract and the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs. 

/ \% i\ ll| Butter a pudding dish, put in the mixture, and bake 
i^«55§? i ill 1 11 "^^ minutes in a quick oven. Beat the 4 whites to 
^^ lil '- U "^ ^^'^ froth, and add 4 tablespoonfuls of pow- 
^'w* dered sugar; spread over the hot pudding and 

Gem Apple Corers. , r iVi tt 4. 1 • ij -^ 

brown very lightly. Eat when ice cold, with or 

without cream. Without the meringue this compound will keep in 
the ice-chest for many days without losing any of its delicate flavor. 

Apple Float. — Boil the apple till tender, and press through a 
sieve till the whole pulp is entirely free from lumps. Sweeten to 
taste, and beat through it the whites of several eggs that have already 
been well frothed. Lemon juice or nutmeg can be added if flavoring 
is desired. Now pour the float into a handsome glass bowl, and 
on top, with a large spoon, heap the whipped whites of eggs or 
whipped cream, and dust sugar and nutmeg over it, and here and 
there drop clear apple jelly on it. Eat with cream, plain or whipped. 

Apple Trifle. — Take smooth, well-sweetened apple sauce, chill, 
put in a deep glass dish, and heap whipped cream over the top. De- 
licious. 

Apple Wliip. — Make a pint of milk into rich boiled custard, by 
adding, when at boiling point, a teacupful of sugar, a bit of butter 



DESSERTS. 431 

the size of a small walnut, and the yolks of 3 eggs beaten to a cream, 
and a pinch of salt. Stir all together till smooth and creamy ; then 
add 1 pint of apple sauce which has been put through a fine strainer, 
and beat all together. A teaspoonful of vanilla is to be added when 
cold, and at the last, just before serving, the whites of the eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth, with a tablespoonful of sugar. 

Cold Peacli Pudding-. — One quart peaches, sliced ; three-fourths 
cup sugar, half teaspoonful vanilla, 1 pint milk, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls flour, one-fourth teaspoonful salt. Put the milk in a double 
boiler, set on the fire, beat together sugar, flour, salt and eggs ; stir 
this into the mixture of the boiling milk; cook for 15 minutes, stir- 
ring often ; take from the fire ; add the vanilla; set the bowl in a cool 
place ; pare and slice the peaches. When the cream is cold, stir the 
peaches into it. Stand the pudding on ice for an hour. Turn into a 
glass dish to serve. 

Peach Meringue. — Boil 1 quart of milk, omitting one-half cup to 
moisten ; 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. When the milk boils, add the 
moistened cornstarch ; stir constantly until thick ; remove from fire, 
add 1 tablespoonful butter ; let cook. Then beat in yolks of 3 eggs 
until the mixture seems light and creamy ; add one-half cup pow- 
dered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with 
2 or 3 layers of rich, juicy peaches (pared, halved and stoned), sprin- 
kle with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, pour over them the cus- 
tard, and bake 20 minutes, then spread w^ith the light beaten whites, 
well sweetened, and return to the oven until a light brown. Serve 
with cream or a rich sauce. Nice without any dressing. 

Banana Trifle. — One quart of sweet milk, 3 fresh eggs, half cup 
of sugar; scald all to a soft custard; when cool flavor with vanilla; 
have ready a deep dish with 6 bananas peeled and sliced thin, and a 
few slices of sponge cake ; pour the above over this and set away 
where it will get cold. 

Banana Tapioca. — A cup of tapioca soaked over night. Next 
morning put into a farina kettle with as much water as one would use 
for cooking rice ; when cooked perfectly clear, sugar it and salt it as 
one likes it, slice six bananas, stir into the hot pudding, cool it in a 
mould and serve it with whipped cream. 

Banana Moonshine. — Beat the whites of 6 eggs to a very stiff 
froth. Then add gradually 7 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat- 



432 DESSERTS. 

ing until stiff and hard. Then beat in half a cupful of banana which 
has been whipped to a cream. Set on ice until thoroughly chilled. 
Serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. 

Banana Meringue. — Put in a saucepan a quart of milk, half a 
tablcspoonful of cornstarch smoothly mixed, half a cup of sugar and 
the beaten yolks of 4 eggs ; set this over boiling water, and when 
nearly boiling remove at once. When cold, stir in half a dozen sliced 
bananas and turn into a glass dish ; cover the top with meringue 
made from the whipped whites and serve with lady-fingers and 
whipped cream. 

Pineapple Cream Pudding-. — To make pineapple cream pudding 
for 6 persons, use 1 pineapple of medium size, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, 
three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth 
of a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Put 
the milk in the double boiler and on the fire. Beat together, until 
light and smooth, the sugar, flour, salt and eggs. Stir this mixture 
into the boiling milk and cook for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. 
Then take from the fire and turn the mixture into a bowl. Beat the 
vanilla extract into the mixture and set the bowl away in a cool place. 
Pare the pineapple and grate it into a deep dish. When the cream 
becomes cool stir the pineapple into it, then place the pudding in the 
refrigerator for an hour or more, to chill it thoroughly. Turn into a 
glass dish and serve. Serve plain, or with whipped cream. 

Strawberry Pudding. — Beat the yolks of 4 eggs and 4 table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Add the juice of 1 cup of berries and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of hot water, and simmer until it thickens. Remove from 
the fire, partly cool and stir in the whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff, with 
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add 1 quart of very ripe strawberries. 
Serve cold with sauce made of one-half cup of butter and 1 cup of 
sugar, stirred to a cream and piled on top. 

Strawberry Bread Pudding. — Beat yolks of 4 eggs with half a 
cup of sugar, add a pint of milk and 1 cup of stale crumbs. Mix and 
turn in a baking dish. Bake until " set " in a moderate oven about 20 
minutes. Take out and cover thickly with sugared berries. Beat the 
whites of the eggs until very light, add to them 4 tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar, beat again. Spread over the berries, dust thickly. 

Strawberry PufT Pudding. — Sift 2 tablespoonfuls of baking 
powder with 1 pint of flour; beat well 1 egg; add a little salt; mix 



DESSERTS. 433 

with sweet milk till of the consistency of thick batter ; place well- 
greased cups in a steamer ; put into each a spoonful of batter, then a 
spoonful of strawberries, and cover with another spoonful of batter, 
steam 20 minutes. Eat with cream and sugar, or a liquid hot sauce 
with a cupful of strawberry juice added. 

Custartl Strawberries. — Put 1 pint of milk on the stove; when it 
comes to a boil add the yolks of 3 eggs, half cup of sugar and stir in 
the boiling milk ; after it thickens take from the fire and cool ; have 
ready a box of strawberries with sugar put over them, then turn the 
custard over them and beat the whites of the eggs with 3 teaspoons 
of powdered sugar and frost it ; set in oven to brown. 

Jellied Strawberries. — Melt 2 ounces of gelatine in a little cold 
water; squeeze the juice from a quart of currants, and add to the gela- 
tine, and sweeten ; stem a pint and a half of ripe strawberries ; 
mix in the currant juice; turn into a mould; set on ice to harden, 
and serve with cream. 

Strawberry Gelatine. — Take half a box of gelatine, dissolve in 
half cup of cold water; then pour on a pint of boiling water; sweeten 
and flavor to taste. Now take a glass dish, pour a little on the bot- 
tom, set on ice, when stiff put a layer of strawberries on top and cover 
with gelatine; set on ice; when stiff this time put on another layer of 
strawberries, powder with sugar, and you have a very nice and cheap 
dessert. 

Orange Ambrosia Pudding-. — Fill a glass dish with layers of 
orange and banana, or alternate layers of oranges, strawberries, and 
sliced bananas. Sprinkle with grated cocoanut, if desired. Sweeten 
well. Make a custard with a pint of milk, 2 eggs (leave out 1 white), 
a little flour or cornstarch, half a cupfu! of sugar, not to make it stiff, 
but a little thicker ; pour the custard over the fruit. The white, 
beaten stiff, with 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, can be dropped in spoon- 
fuls over the top. Serve very cold. 

Orange Jelly, in Baskets. — With a sharp penknife cut halfway 
round the centre of the orange, leaving a strip half an inch in width 
to serve as a handle ; take out all the pulp ; when finished, the skin 
of the orange should be in the form of a basket; the basket should 
be a little more than half the depth of the orange. Now, with a 
pair of scissors cut the top edge of the basket in points. To make 
the jelly, strain the pulp of the oranges ; soak one-half box of 



434 DESSERTS. 

gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water until soft ; add 1 cupful of 
boiling water, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 pint of 
orange juice. Stir till the sugar is dissolved, and strain. When cool, fill 
the orange skins, which have in the meantime been carefully washed 
cleaned, and placed in a pan of broken ice to keep upright, and at the 
same time to chill. Some cooks, when they are ready to serve, put 
a spoonful of whipped cream over the jelly in each basket. To serve 
these baskets, they should be placed on small doilies, and a ribbon- 
bow of yellow, or pale blue satin tied on each handle. Or, send to 
table in a bed of orange, or laurel, or some other kind of pretty 
green leaves. 

Orange Tapioca. — Wash 3 tablespoonfuls of tapioca, cover with 
cold water and soak over night. In the morning heat 1 pint of milk 
in a double boiler, add the tapioca, a pinch of salt, and boil 20 min- 
utes. To the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, add half a tcacupful of 
granulated sugar and 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch dissolved in a 
little cold milk, stir into the boiling milk and boil for 5 minutes. 
Then pour into a pudding dish ; make a meringue of the whites of 
eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, flavor with orange extract, 
and stand in a moderate oven to brown slightly. Pare, slice thinly, 
and remove the seeds of 6 or 8 large sweet oranges, lay in the bottom 
of a glass dish, and sift powdered sugar over and between each layer. 
When the pudding is cold run a wet knife around to loosen the edge, 
lay it over the fruit, and serve. 

Orauge Cream. — Grate 1 lemon and 2 oranges ; mix with a cup- 
ful of sugar and half a cupful of water. Put in a small saucepan, set 
on the stove until the sugar is dissolved ; beat 3 eggs and stir in ; set 
off to cool. When thick, stir in a teacupful of whipped cream. Set 
on ice until very cold, and serve with cake. 

Orange Float. — Add the juice of 3 lemons to a quart of water; 
put in a saucepan with a cup of sugar ; set on the fire until it boils ; 
.stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, and set aside to cool. Peel 6 
large oranges, slice and lay in a deep glass dish; pour the mixture 
over. Spread the top with .meringue, and serve very cold with 
sponge cake. 

Orange Snowballs. — Boil 1 cup of rice, and, when cool, spread 
evenly on 6 or 8 dumpling cloths. Pare as many small oranges, 
taking off all the white skin, and tie the fruit surrounded by the rice 



DESSERTS. 435 

in the cloths, boiHng steadily for one hour. Turn out, cover with 
powdered sugar, and serve with whipped cream or a rich liquid sauce. 

Currant Meringue. — Crush together a cupful of currants with 
an equal measure of sugar. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with a round- 
ing teaspoonful of flour, and stir this into the currants, adding a little 
water, unless the fruit is quite juicy. Pour the mixture into a deep 
pie plate and bake. When it is done, cover the top with a meringue 
made from the whites of the eggs beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Brown slightly in the oven and serve cold. 

Red Currant Snow. — A pint of boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls 
of cornstarch and a cupful of sugar. Remove from the fire when 
cooked thick, and add the juice of 2 cups of red currants, crushed 
and pressed through a colander. Whip the whites of 2 eggs, add a 
little sugar, and pour over all. 

Blackberry Cream. — Sprinkle half a cupful of sugar over 2 
quarts of ripe berries, and mash them with a heavy spoon or wooden 
pestle. Set aside for a couple of hours, then strain the juice through 
a thin cloth, and add another half cupful of sugar. Partially whip a 
pint of sweet cream, to which add the fruit juice; continue the whip- 
ping, gradually adding the stiff-beaten whites of 2 eggs. When no 
more cream arises from the whipping, serve at once. 

Blackberry Mush or Flummery. — To a quart of ripe blackber- 
ries add a pint of water and cook till tender, then stir in a little corn- 
starch, arrowroot or wheat flour to thicken the cooked fruit to a 
proper consistency, and make a jelly or mush of it. Sweeten to taste, 
and serve either warm or cold with cream. Be careful not to get the 
mixture too stiff or too sweet, as in either case much of its flavor and 
delicacy is destroyed. Dewberries, strawberries, raspberries or any 
of the small fruits can be used in the same way, and all make deli- 
cious mushes. Any kind of fruit mush makes a very delicate dessert 
in hot weather ; and when blackberries are in season there is no more 
dainty and healthful breakfast dish than blackberry mush. Mould 
and serve with cream. 

Fruit Sauce for Pudcling-s. — Mash a quart of ripe fruit, beat it, 
sift a cupful of sugar over it and set away. If the fruit is very sweet, 
less sugar will be required. About 10 minutes before the sauce is 
needed set it over the fire and stir constantly. When heated nearly 
to boiling, turn it about the base of the pudding, which has been 



436 DESSERTS. 

placed in a deep platter. Fruit sauce is, by the bye, as attractive in 
appearance as it is delicious in taste. 

Ka.spbcrry Float. — One quart red raspberries ; whites of 4 eggs; 
6 tablespoonfuls sugar. Mash berries, add half cup sugar ; let stand 
half an hour; press through strainer. Beat whites to stiff froth, add 
raspberry juice a little at a time. Serve in small glass dishes with 
cake. 

Raspberry Trifle. — Six small sponge cakes, such as are sold for 
a cent a piece at bakers' shops ; 1 quart of milk ; 5 eggs ; 1 cup of 
sugar ; 1 quart red raspberries ; 1 cup of sweet cream ; vanilla for 
flavoring. Make a custard of the milk, the sugar and the yolks of 
the eggs, flavoring with the vanilla. Split the cakes; lay half of them 
in the bottom of a glass dish ; pour over them half the cream, and 
strew thickly with the berries sprinkled with sugar. Cover these 
with a second layer of cake, moistened with the rest of the cream, 
and spread with the remainder of the berries. Pour the ice-cold cus- 
tard over all ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff meringue with a 
little powdered sugar ; mix in a handful of berries, and heap the me- 
ringue on top of the trifle. 

Raspberry Meriug-iie. — Line a pie plate with good light pastry, 
and bake in a quick oven. While still warm, spread thickly with red 
raspberries. Make a meringue of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff 
with a half-cupful of powdered sugar, and when it is a froth stir 
lightly through it a half-pint of raspberries. Heap the meringue on 
top of the berries in the pie plate, and brown very delicately in the 
oven. Eat as soon as it is cool. 

Tapioca Fruit Dessert. — Make a plain blanc mange or jelly by 
boiling soaked tapioca until clear in either milk or water ; put a layer 
of mixed preserved and candied fruits in a glass dish, and when the 
tapioca has cooled sufficiently, pour a part of it over them ; add more 
fruit and the remainder of the tapioca. Serve cold. 

Rbubarb witb Lemon Cream. — Over some rich stewed rhubarb 
pour the following : Mix well together 6 ounces of loaf sugar and the 
grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, then add 1 pint of sweet thick 
cream and whisk it to a froth. This is also nice over strawberries, 
raspberries, or almost any fresh, ripe fruit. 

Rhubarb Tapioca. — Wash, and cut into small pieces, 1 quart of 
rhubarb. Cook it, with 1 pint of sugar, in a porcelain or granite 



DESSERTS. 437 

double boiler, until tender ; do not stir it. Skim it out carefully and 
put it into an earthen pudding dish. To the syrup left in the double 
boiler add enough boiling water to make 1 quart, and when boiling 
add two-thirds of a cup of pearl tapioca. Let it boil 1 hour, then 
pour it over the rhubarb. Add 1 large tablespoonful of butter, and 
bake about half an hour. Serve with foamy sauce or with cream. 

Plum Custard. — Stone and stew a pint of plums. Lay them in 
the bottom of a pudding dish, sprinkle with sugar, and pour over 
them a cream made by cooking together until thick and smooth 2 
cups of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and adding to this after it 
comes from the fire a tablespoonful of butter and the yolks of 3 eggs, 
beaten light. Bake the cream-covered plums 10 minutes, cover them 
with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs beaten with 3 table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, brown lightly, and eat cold with cream. 

Plum Puddingy. — Stew a quart of plums, remove the pits, sweeten, 
and pour them into an earthen pudding dish. Cover them with a 
thick batter, made by taking a cupful of sweet cream or rich milk, 1 
egg, a teaspoonful of baking powder and flour sufficient to give the 
right consistency. A soft biscuit dough may also be used for the 
covering. Steam for an hour or bake for half as long. On remov- 
ing from the dish, invert the ]:)udding, and serve with hard sauce. 

Quince Snow. — Quarter 5 quinces, boil until tender in water; peel 
and rub through a colander, sweeten to the taste, and add the whites 
of 4 eggs. Beat all to a stiff froth and pile with a spoon upon a glass 
dish and put in the ice-box to chill. 

Fruit Trifle. — Whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with 2 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Then whisk in 2 tablespoonfuls each of cur- 
rant jelly and raspberry jam. 

Grape Trifle. — Stew Concord grapes and pass them through a 
colander. Sweeten the pulp and juice and thicken it slightly with 
cornstarch. Pour it hot over small slices of stale bread, biscuit or 
cake. Before these are soft enough to fall to pieces, pile them up in 
a glass dish, interlaying with desiccated cocoanut. Cover with a me- 
ringue made with the white of an egg beaten with pulverized sugar, 
and dot with macaroons or walnut meats and strips of jelly. Serve 
cold 

Jellied Prunes. — One pint of prunes, a pint and a half of water, 
half a package of gelatine, juice of 2 oranges, and half a pint of sugar- 



438 DESSERTS. 

Soak the gelatine in 1 gill of the water for 2 hours. Wash the prunes 
in several waters, rubbing them well between the hands. Put them 
in a stew-pan with ly. cups water; stew slowly for 1 hour. Take 
up the prunes and remove the stones. Return the fruit to the water 
in the stew-pan and let it boil up. Add the gelatine and take from 
the fire. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the sugar and 
orange juice. Put the stew-pan in a pan of ice water, and stir the 
preparation until it begins to thicken. Pour into a mould, and set in 
a cool place to harden. It should stand for 4 or 5 hours, and then be 
served with soft custard or whipped cream. 

Prime Jelly. — Stone 1 pound of prunes and put them into a 
saucepan with sufficient water to cover them ; add one-quarter pound 
of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, and stew all gently for 2 hours ; 
then pass the prunes through a wire sieve. Soak one-half ounce of 
gelatine in water and add it to the prunes ; then break the prune- 
stones and add the kernels to the jelly. Boil all together for 2 min- 
utes, then pour into a mould. This jelly is often served in border 
moulds, and the centre filled up with whipped cream. A little car- 
mine improves the color, and claret is sometimes used instead of 
water to stew the prunes in. 

Date Meriugue — Is a delicate dessert, and may be quickly made 
in a case of unexpected company, if one has at hand the sine qua non. 
Beat the whites of 5 eggs to a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, and one-half pound of dates, stoned and cut up fine. Bake 15 
minutes in a moderate oven. Serve, as soon as cool, with thick, 
sweet cream, or a custard made with the yolks. 

Dessei't Dates. — May have a peanut or almond put in place of 
the stone, and the date rolled in coarse granulated sugar, or dipped 
in thin frosting. Prettily arranged, they will be found attractive 
alike to the eye and the palate. 

Dates and Almonds. — Prepared together this is an Eastern di.sh, 
very delicious, but almost too rich for our liking. To make it, cut a 
slit in each date, slip out the stone and insert a blanched almond. 
Then prepare a rich sugar syrup. Wlien it boils, put in the dates, 
.stew gently until they are easily pierced all through, remove from 
the fire, and serve cold. 

Steamed Dates or Figs. — Remove all particles of dirt found on 
the dates ; cut the dates open lengthwise and take out the stone, also 



DESSERTS. 



439 



an occasional worm next the stone. Pinch the dates together again, 
and place in dish loosely. Have water boiling under steamer, put 
dish of dates into it, and steam 10 minutes only. Remove steamer to 
open window ; take off the cover to let the steam evaporate. Serve 
warm or cold, with or without cream. Figs can be served same way. 

Fig- Custard. — Butter a two-quart tin pudding mould, tear in half 
figs enough to cover the sides and bottom, first scraping them care- 
fully to see that they are free from defects. Make a custard of a pint 
of milk, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon 
flavor, or 2 or 3 strips of the yellow peel of a lemon. Thicken the 
custard with 3 tablespoonfuls of macaroons, or dried sponge cake, 
after it has been boiled, and add 2 tablespoonfuls ol gelatine which 
has been soaking in cold water for 2 hours. Pour the custard into 
the mould, cover it closely, and let it cook in a steamer or in the 
oven for 1 hour. At the end of this time, take it out and set it away 
to become cold. Then slip it out of the mould, carefully loosening 
the sides with a knife, and serve it with a sauce of whipped cream. 

Cherry Pudding-. — A delicious cherry 
pudding is made of early red cherries by 
the following recipe: Beat the yolks of 4 
eggs until light, then the whites, and add 
with a pint of rich milk ; sift in 2 pints 
of flour with 2 teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der, and beat until smooth ; then add 2 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, with a 
pinch of salt. Drain the juice from 3 
teacups of stoned cherries, dredge them 
with flour, and stir with the batter ; turn 
into a buttered pudding mould ; cover, and 
stand in a pot of boiling water, to boil 
for 3 hours. Serve with hard sauce. 

Cherry Charlotte. — Cut in narrow strips a kw slices of stale 
sponge cake, and arrange these around the sides of a deep glass dish. 
Stone a quart of fine, juicy cherries, and sprinkle lightly with sugar, 
unless very sweet. Pour these, juice and all. over the sponge cake. 
Now whip a pint of sweet cream very stiff; sweeten to taste, color 
about half of it with red cherry juice, and pile it upon the cherries. 
Let it remain in the icebox until the moment of serving. 




m 




"VHESE delicious summer desserts are capable of 
innumerable variations. As warm weather grows 
apace, and the appetite for plain and cooked 
fruits wanes, these delicacies will tempt the most 
jaded palate. The ways of serving are so varied 
that the most elaborate conserve may be pre- 
pared from many ingredients, or a simple dish 
concocted of odds and ends that will be a pleas- 
ant and agreeable change. 

In very many of Fruit Salad recipes, wines and cordials are used 
as flavoring. This, however, is not a necessity, for any one who ob- 
jects to them on principle will find that a half cup of orange juice 
may be used as a substitute in any salads given in this department. 

Fruit Salad. — Half box gelatine ; use double the amount in hot 
weather. Dissolve in sufficient cold water to completely cover. 
Then pour over it 1 pint of boiling water. When cool add 1 cup of 
sugar and the juice of 2 lemons. Arrange the fruits in a dish that 
will set level on the ice, and pour the gelatine solution over all. Fruits 
as follows: 1 can apricots, 1 can pineapple, 3 oranges, cut in slices; 
6 bananas, sliced; 10 cents worth of almonds, blanched and chopped; 
peaches, sliced, to equal the bananas in amount ; add strawberries 
and raspberries. Mingle all carefully together, pour the gelatine 
over, and set on the ice. Any fruit not at hand can be omitted. 

Fruit Gelatine. — One box of gelatine in 1 pint of cold water a 
few moments; add 1 quart boiling water, 1^ pints granulated sugar. 
When dissolved, flavor with juice of 3 lemons. Strain into a mould, 
before it begins to stiffen ; add 4 oranges, sliced in small pieces, leaving 
the white skin ; one-half pound of Malaga grapes, split lengthwise; 
one-half pound English walnut kernels, halved ; one-half teacup of 
pineapple, cut in small pieces ; a few seeded raisins sometimes added. 
Serve with whipped cream. Let stand on ice until firm before turn- 
ing out. 

Banana Salads. — Cut a few bananas straight down the middle, 
and then cut them lengthwise into strips. Put them in layers, with 
slices of orange, in a glass dish, .sprinkling sugar plentifully over each 
440 



FRUIT SALADS. 441 

layer. Lay aside for 2 hours, and then serve with couple tablespoon- 
fuls lemon juice poured over it all. An excellent salad is made out of 
cut bananas, served in red currant or blackberry syrup. Another 
good salad is of bananas, tinned apricots and French preserved plums; 
or, again, of bananas, grapes, slices of apple, pear, orange, and black- 
berries. 

Fi'encli Bauana Salad. — Put in a salad glass a layer of ice well 
powdered with sugar, and upon this a layer of bananas, which have 
been peeled and picked to pieces with a silver fork ; again a handful 
of chopped ice and sugar, and after this bananas, repeating until the 
salad glass is as full as required. Pour upon the fruit a wineglass of 
white wine, and a wineglass of tepid water, in which you have dipped 
a lump of sugar that has absorbed the drops of almond essence ; and 
another that has absorbed 3 drops of genuine eau de cologne, which 
is constantly used in cookery in France. In the right cologne you 
get the compressed extract of rosemary and lemon thyme. Mix the 
salad well, and dress the top with whipped cream and a few preserved 
violets. You will not detect the cologne, as with the other ingre- 
dients it unites to produce a subtle, slightly mysterious, but delicious 
flavor. 

Sweet Orang-e Salad. — Take equal quantities of oranges and 
ripe, rich apples, peeled and sliced, and the latter soaked in lemon 
juice. Dip both in powdered sugar. Put these in a bowl in layers 
and add a glass of white wine and 2 tablespoons of orange flower 
water. Omit the wine, add a little lemon juice. 

Strawberry Salad. — Another admirable way of serving straw- 
berries is in salads with other fruits — with sliced bananas over which 
lemon juice has been squeezed, for example, or with shredded pine- 
apple, this last affording an unsurpassable flavor. 

Peach Salad. — Cut some carefully peeled peaches in thin slices, 
dress them in a circle with sifted sugar. This salad is to be preferred 
only when ready to serve. 

Pear Salad. — Peel and cut into thin slices some very fine ripe 
pears, sweeten and finish the same as the peaches. 

Orange Salad. — Cut the oranges without peeling them, and finish 
the same as for the above, substituting lemon juice for orange. 

Apple Salad. — To be prepared and flavored the same as the 
pears, only suppressing the cores and seeds. Use nice apples. 




Use porcelain, granite, or iron kettles, or stone jars for 
preserving. Fruits that require paring should be dropped 
into cold water as soon as peeled to prevent blackening. 
Pare the fruit with a silver knife to avoid discoloration. 
Boil preserves gently. In preserving, the syrup some- 
times begins to rise so rapidly that there is no time to 
move the heavy kettle aside. In such a case it is well to know that a 
teaspoonful of cold water thrown into the syrup will make it subside 
immediately. Use granulated sugar in preserving fruit and alwaj's 
look it over carefully before using. The fruit should not be over- ripe, 
for if it is too soft, it will quickly break during the process and have 
an uninviting look when ready to set away. 

When preparing quinces for preserves and marmalade, save all the 
peelings, cores and seed. Cover these with water and cook until very 
soft. Strain, add to the liquid as much sugar as you have of juice 
and boil until thick enough to jell. It is not necessary that preserves 
be kept air-tight, but they should not be put up in large vessels, for a 
mould is apt to form on the top after a jar is opened. If possible, use 
quart jars. If the jars have tops, close them when filled as in can- 
ning ; if not, cover the preserves with paper that has been dipped in 
brandy, after which paste a circular piece of paper over the top of the 
jar the same as for jelly. An asbestos mat is a useful article to keep 
preserves and jams from burning. 

To prevent preserves and jams from sugaring add a teaspoonful 
of cream tartar to every gallon of fruit before it is quite cooked. A 
very little tartaric acid will answer the same purpose. Preserves that 
are candied may be liquefied by setting the jar in a kettle of cold 
water. Let the water boil continuously for an hour or more. To 
keep from becoming mouldy put a few drops of glycerine around the 
edges of the jar before screwing on the cover. This is a sure pre- 
ventive. 

When preserves are but slightly fermented, simply pouring off the 
syrup, scalding it, and turning back over the fruit, will be sufficient. 
If necessary, scald the entire fruit and juice. Cleanse the jars thor- 
442 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 443 

oughly. Rinse, with a little bi-carbonate of soda in the water. Re- 
turn the fruit to the jar and cover while hot. They should be kept 
in a cool, dry place, and looked at every few weeks. 

Sug-ar, To Clarify. — Clarify when brown sugar is used. With 
very nice white sugar this process is hardly necessary. Put the 
sugar in the preserving kettle in the proportion of 1 cupful of water 
to 1 pound of sugar. To every 5 pounds of sugar add the beaten 
white of an egg. Put all together over a slow fire to dissolve, stir 
and let boil up once or twice, set back a minute and skim. Return 
to the fire and let boil 15 minutes, removing and skimming several 
times. Then pour off the clear syrup, wash the kettle, pour back the 
syrup and put the fruit in to cook, adding more water if necessary. 

Cooking' Preserves in Syrup. — Put in only as much as the syrup 
will cover. When done remove and add more fruit. If necessary, 
more syrup can be made. 

Peaches. 

Peach Preserves. — Select peaches that are ripe, but not soft, and 
free stones. Pour boiling water upon them and let them stand 5 or 6 
minutes, then pour off the water and pull off the skins. Weigh the 
fruit after it is pared and the stones extracted, and allow a pound of 
granulated sugar to every one of peaches. Crack one-quarter of the 
stones, and extract the kernels. Put sugar and peaches in alternate 
layers in a stone jar and let stand all night. Blanch the peach ker- 
nels. The next day pour off the syrup and boil it a few minutes, set 
off the fire and skim. Return to the fire, and when it boils lay in the 
peaches, scattering the peach kernels among them. Boil very slowly 
one-half hour, then lay the peaches into jars, boil the syrup 15 min- 
utes longer and pour over them. The peach kernels give a delicate 
flavor. In canning, pack the peaches in the jar and pour the syrup 
over them. Instead of halving the peaches some cooks force out the 
pit and leave the peach as whole as possible. 

Peach Preserves. — II. Select a white variety of the fruit, and a 
clingstone. Pare, and drop each peach into a stone jar of clear 
water. Scalding is a speedy way of paring, but darkens the flesh a 
little sometimes. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit. Place in the kettle a teacupful of water for every 4 pounds 
of fruit, and then the fruit and sugar in alternate layers. Boil until 



444 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 



the peaches can be pierced with a fork, after which skim out the fruit 
and boil down the syrup as in the [)receding recipe ; tlien returu the 
fruit for a final heating. These preserves should be kept in wide- 
mouthed glass jars or a small stone jar. Leave the stones in, or not, 
as preferred. 

Braiidii'd P«iiclie.s. — Select firm, ripe fruit, which should be pared 
only, not halved. Make a thin syrup of sugar and water, to cover the 
fruit, and boil until the peaches can be pierced easily with a fork. 
Take out with a skimmer, and pack in quart glass jars. Make the 
syrup very rich, and boil it 15 minutes. Add the best brandy in the 
proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to a quart can. Pour the syrup, while 
still hot, over the peaches, filling the cans to the top and seal. The old- 
time method was to add the same amount 
of brandy that there was syrup, thus form- 
ing a compound that had a most aggressive 
odor of liquor, and one repellant to refined 
tastes. Made in the fashion here given, the 
little dash of spirits simply gives a piquant 
flavor to the preserve. 

Peach Butter. — To 1 bushel of peaches 
allow from 8 to 10 pounds of granulated 
sugar. Pare and halve the peaches; put 
into the kettle and stir constantly to prevent 
sticking until perfectly smooth and rather 
thick. Some of the peach stones thrown in 
and cooked with the peaches give it a nice 
flavor, and they can be afterwards skimmed out. Add the sugar a 
short time before taking from the fire ; put in jars and cover tight. 
Peaches should be neither too mealy nor too juicy. 

Peach Marinalade. — Pare and quarter the peaches. Allow three- 
fourths of a pound of sugar and a cup of water to each pound of fruit. 
Cook slowly, stirring and mashing the fruit; skim, and be careful that 
it does not burn when nearly done. Small and imperfect fruit can be 
economically used for marmalade. To every 2 pounds of fruit add 
then the kernels of half a dozen peach stones chopped fine, and the 
juice ofa lemon. Cool 10 minutes longer and put in small jars or 




Scale. 



jelly glasses. 
peach pits. 



Some add the juice of a lemon, or two, instead of the 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 445 

Pears. 

Preserved Pears. — Pare the fruit; divide; remove the core; add- 
ing to each pound of pears three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Make 
a syrup by adding as many cups of water as there are pounds of sugar. 
Boil and skim ; when clear put in the pears and stew until tender. 
Choose pears like the Seckle for preserving, on account of flavor and 
size. (Leave small pears whole.) Pears possess very little decided 
flavor of their own, hence a nice way is to stick a clove in the blos- 
som end of each pear. Another nice way is to add the juice and 
thinly pared rind of 1 lemon to each five pounds of fruit. If the pears 
are hard and tough, parboil them until tender before beginning to 
preserve, and from the same water take what is needed for making 
the syrup. Large pears must be halved, or even sliced. Pack the 
pears in jars; boil the syrup a few minutes longer, and pour into 
cover the fruit ; seal immediately, or put in jars, and simply tie down 
when cold. 

Preserved Pears. — IL Pare, core, and quarter the fruit, and for 
each pound of pears take one-half pound of sugar. Save the perfect 
cores and skins and boil these in sufficient water to cover. Strain 
this and put the sugar in, let boil and add the prepared fruit ; stew 
gently until the syrup becomes colored finely. Can and seal im- 
mediately. 

Ginger Pears. — This is a delicious sweetmeat. Use a firm pear, 
peel, core, and halve them. Have a syrup made of three-fourths of a 
pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; for 8 pounds of fruit use 6 
pounds of sugar, the juice and rind of 4 lemons, i pint of water, and 
half a pound of ginger-root (the green, if possible), sliced thin. Boil 
the sliced and scraped ginger-root in the pint of water for 20 minutes, 
add the sugar, boil 10 minutes and skim. Then put in the fruit, 
which has been previously pared and dropped in cold water to prevent 
its turning black. Cut the lemons in long, thin strips, and cook all 
together slowly until the pears are tender. Pack the pears in jars, and 
fill each jar up to the brim with syrup, put on the rubbers, and screw 
on the tops as tight as you can. Be careful, when the jars are cold, 
to tighten them still further before you set them away. Divide up 
the slices of lemon-peel and pieces of ginger equally among the jars. 
This is a most delicious and rich preserve, and is especially nice 



446 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

when served, like preserved ginger, with ice cream. The above is an 
old-fashioned recipe, dating back to colonial times, when these ginger 
fruit preserves were a special feature of the tables of hospitable 
dames. 

Branclied Pears. — In making brandy pears, Bartletts are the 
only variety that will give entire satisfaction when brandied, as they 
have a more decided flavor than any other. Select firm but ripe 
pears, and proceed as for Brandied Peaches. 

Pear Marmalade. — Pare, peel and core good, ripe pears, and for 
every 12 pounds allow 8 of sugar and 1 quart of water. Slice the 
fruit, and put it and the water together in a kettle, which stand on 
the fire and boil till the fruit is very soft. Then add the sugar, well 
bruised, and a few sticks of cinnamon tied together, so as to form a 
fagot. Stir the marmalade over a brisk fire with a clean wooden 
spoon till it is reduced to a rather thick paste that runs slowly off the 
spoon. Remove from the fire, and pour at once into either small 
jars or jelly glasses. 

Quinces. 

Quince Preserves. — This variety of preserves requires a longer 
time for preparation than any other, but is fully worth the extra time 
and trouble, for it is the prettiest and most palatable of all preserved 
fruits. Choose fine, yellow quinces ; pare, quarter and core them, or 
cut in circular slices an inch thick ; pare and dig the core from each, 
so as to leave the slice ring-shaped. Save all the perfect cores and 
skins. Put the quinces over the fire with just water enough to cover 
them, and simmer until they are soft enough to pierce with a yellow 
straw. Take out carefully with a skimmer, and spread upon broad 
dishes to cool. Add the cores and parings to the water in which the 
quinces were boiled, and stew, closely covered, for an hour. Strain 
through a jelly-bag. Return this juice to the fire and slowly boil the 
quinces in it until they can be easily pierced with a steel fork. Boil 
only a few at a time, and when soft skim them out and lay them on 
a platter. When all the fruit has been thus cooked, add the sugar to 
the juice, and when dissolved return the quinces for a final cooking. 
The fruit must boil very slowly at least an hour, in order to take on 
the rich dark-red color so much desired. Sometimes this color may 
be obtained in a .shorter time, but the preserves must not be removed 
from the fire until it appears. Do not cook the fruit too long at the 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 447 

first boiling, as this will render it so tender that in the second boil- 
ing it will break ; and do not boil it entirely in the sugar, for this 
makes it tough and hard, and this condition will grow worse the 
longer the preserves are kept. Pack the quinces in jars and pour the 
syrup over them. 

Quiuce Preserves. — II. Pare and weigh the quinces according 
to the above directions, and allow only half a pound of sugar to a 
pound of fruit. Boil the fruit in the liquid derived from straining the 
boiled cores and pairings, as in the previous case, and when adding the 
sugar, also allow a pint of vinegar to every 4 pounds of sugar. Finish 
the same as in the foregoing recipe. To those who do not care for 
the mild and, to very many, the insipid flavor of the quince, the 
addition of the vinegar will prove an agreeable change. New cider 
is better than vinegar. Shred the rind of an orange and add for the 
flcivor. 

Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves. — Six pounds of quinces, 
6 pounds of hard, mellow apples, and 9 pounds of sugar. Pare, 
quarter and core the fruit, and boil separately until half done, in 
enough water to cover it. Then take out with perforated skimmer. 
Add the sugar to the liquor, and boil until it is quite a syrup. Add 
the fruit and boil slowly until it can be pierced with a straw. Put fruit 
in jars in alternate layers, reaching to within a third of the top ; pour 
in the syrup, seal when cool. The parings, cores, and any surplus 
syrup may be used for making jelly. 

Quince Marmalade. — Ten pounds of fully ripe quinces, juice of 
6 oranges and 7 ^4 pounds of sugar. Pare, core and slice the quinces, 
put the parings and cores in a kettle with 1 cup of water to each 
pound of fruit, and boil slowly until all the flavor is extracted. Strain 
off the water through a jelly bag, and put into it the quinces and 
juice from the oranges, which should be almost cold. Boil until the 
fruit is a perfectly soft, thick paste ; add the sugar and boil slowly 15 
minutes more, stirring constantly. If it jellies on a cold plate, it is 
done. A great help is to peel, quarter and core quinces ; then run 
through the meat chopper before boiling. It boils into marmalade 
much sooner. 

Quince Cheese, or Jam. — Make as for marmalade and boil down 
until thick enough to cut with a knife. Put in jars (small), cover 
with paper, wet with brandy, and seal when cool. It can be turned 



448 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

out with the firmness of cheese, whence it takes its name, and cut 
into shces for luncheon or tea. 

Apples. 

Apple Preserves. — Mellow, tart apples are the best for preserv- 
ing. Pare, quarter and core, or remove the core and leave the apple 
whole, as preferred. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 
pound of apples. Allow 1 sliced lemon to each pound of fruit. Boil 
the parings in water for 15 minutes, allowing 1 pint to each pound of 
fruit. Strain, add the sugar, let boil, and when well skimmed and 
clear, add the apples and let boil until they are transparent. Add the 
lemon just before canning, or flavor with bruised ginger root, tied in 
a cloth, and boiled in the syrup. Pack the fruit in jars and pour the 
boiling syrup in until full. Seal at once. 

Apple Marmalade. — Pare and core mellow apples, cut in pieces, 
adding three-fourths of a pound of sugar for each pound of apples. 
Boil over a slow fire until reduced to a fine pulp. A few cloves may 
be added, or a few pieces of stick cinnamon. Some cooks cut up 1 
large quince and add to the apples for the flavor. Put in jell}- jars in 
a cool place. 

Ginger Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good sour apples and 
sugar. Pare, core and chop the apples fine. Make a syrup of the 
sugar and add the apples, the grated peel of 2 or 3 lemons and a few 
pieces of white ginger. Boil until the apple looks clear and yellow. 
This resembles foreign sweetmeats. The ginger is essential to its pe- 
culiar excellence. This will keep for years. 

Best Apple Butter. — Make cider of sweet apples. Boil some of 
it dcwn the day it is made. Peel and core sweet apples and put in 
uncooked cider. Boil all day if necessary. Have the boiled cider 
hot in a kettle and thin the butter with it as needed. Have a long- 
handled paddle made of wood. Bore the blade with at least twelve 
auger-holes. Tie dry corn husks through the opening, and slir with 
this It keeps the apples from settling. The only apple butter. 

Apple Butter. — II. Boil down .3 gallons of best cider to one- 
fourth of the quantity, and pare and core as many mellow apples as 
the cider will cover. Divide the cider in 2 equal parts and put it in 
2 kettles over the fire. Put the apples in one of the kettles, and as 
they boil down add gradually the cider from the second kettle, which 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 449 

should be kept on the back of the stove. Boil 12 hours, or until it 
is of a rich brown color and quite smooth ; then add ground cloves, 
cinnamon, allspice and brown sugar to suit the taste. It should have 
another good boiling after that, and should be stirred constantly to 
prevent its adhering to the sides and bottom of the kettle. When 
done it will adhere to an inverted plate. Put away in earthen crocks. 

Apple and Cranberry Preserves. — One quart of cranberries, 3 
pints of sweet apples pared, cored and quartered; 2^< cups water, 2^^ 
cups of sugar, and cook until the cranberries begin to burst. Add 
the apples and boil slowly until it is soft. 

Citron Preserves. — Pare, cut into blocks, square or oblong ; boil 
in water with small piece of alum until tender; drain, allow three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of citron and allow 2 
lemons for every 5 pounds. Make a syrup of the sugar and water in 
proportion of a pint of sugar to a quart of water ; boil till clear, skim, 
add the lemons sliced very thin, seeded, and the citron ; cook till the 
citron is transparent. 

Crabapple Preserves. — Core the crabapples through the blossom 
end with a sharp pen-knife. Leave the stems on. Weigh the fruit and 
take pound for pound of white sugar, and 1 cupful of water to each 
pound of sugar. Put over a moderate fire, let dissolve and boil ; skim 
and drop the apples in. Let them boil gently until clear and the skins 
begin to break. Skim out; boil the syrup until thick; put the fruit 
in jars and pour the syrup over. 

Grapes. 

G-rape Preserves. — Pulp them, boil the pulps until soft enough 
to strain through a colander ; weigh the skins and pulps after the 
seeds are removed, adding sugar pound to pound; boil about 10 
minutes, until the skins are sufficiently cooked. Or, take pound for 
pound of grapes, and white sugar. Stem the grapes, wash, and put 
in a preserving kettle in alternate layers with the sugar. Cook over 
a slow fire, stirring constantly; as the seeds rise, skim them off. Stew 
1 hour, set aside to cool, and then put in jars, tying up closely. 

Grape Marmalade. — Pulp the grapes as for preserves given above. 

Put the pulps, after boiling, through a colander to free from seeds ; 

add the pulp and skins together, adding three-fourths of a pound of 

sugar to 1 pound of grapes. (The grapes must be weighed previous 

29 



450 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

to beginning work.) Boil as for any other marmalade until of the 
proper thickness. Put up in bowls and cover with paper. Or, make 
of the strained pulps alone ; to a quart of the pulp allow a pint of 
sugar and boil 40 minutes. 

Grape Butter. — Pulp the grapes, put the skins in a bag, stew the 
pulps until the seeds can be removed by rubbing through a colander. 
To each pound of the pulp add 1 pound of sugar, half a pint of cider 
vinegar, half a teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon and 1 
teaspoonful of nutmeg. Boil this very slowly, putting in the bag of 
skins, tied securely. When it jellies by dropping in cold water it is 
done. Put away in jars. 

California Grape Preserves. — A delicious preserve can be made 
of California grapes. Cut each grape open with a knife and extract 
the seeds ; add sugar to the fruit, pound for pound; cook slowly for 
half an hour or longer until the syrup and pulp of the grape are per- 
fectly clear and transparent. 

Tomatoes. 

Tomato Preserves. — Take 7 pounds of small, sound, ripe toma- 
toes ; 7 pounds of white sugar, and juice of 3 lemons. Sprinkle the 
sugar over the tomatoes and let them stand together over night. In 
the morning drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming it often ; put in 
the tomatoes and boil them slowly for 30 minutes ; take out the toma- 
toes with a perforated skimmer and spread upon flat dishes ; boil the 
syrup down until it begins to thicken; add just before you take it 
from the fire the juice of 3 lemons. Put the tomatoes in jars and pour 
over them the hot syrup, and when cold seal or tie up with thick paper. 
A pound of raisins may be put with this amount of tomatoes ; put in 
15 minutes before taking up ; half ounce of ginger-root is an improve- 
ment. If the tomatoes are large, cut in quarters and let drain. 

Pluin Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds round yellow tomatoes 
peeled, 7 pounds sugar and juice of 3 lemons; let them stand to- 
gether over night. Drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming well ; 
then put in the tomatoes and boil gently 20 minutes. Tnke out the 
fruit with a skimmer, and spread on dishes. Boil the syrup down till 
it thickens, adding, just before you take it off the fire, the juice of the 
lemons. Put the fruit into jars and fill up with the hot syrup. When 
cold seal up. Ginger-root, three-fourths of an ounce, may be used 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 451 

with or in place of the lemons. A pound of raisins may be added 
also, but it is very nice without. Seal up hot. 

Tomato Fig-s. — Take yellow or red plum tomatoes (yellow are 
the firmest). Prepare as above, using three-fourths of a pound of 
sugar to one of fruit. Let stand over night. The next morning drain 
off the syrup; place over the fire and boil until clear; add the toma- 
toes, and to every 7 pounds of these 4 ounces of ginger-root tied in a 
muslin bag, the rind of 4 lemons which have been thinly pared and 
cooked for 10 minutes in water, and also the lemons, sliced thinly, 
with the white skin and seeds removed. Boil slowly for half an hour, 
lift out the fruit with a perforated skimmer and lay in the sun on shal- 
low dishes to harden while you boil down the syrup until thick. Put 
the fruit in jars, pour the syrup over and seal. Small green tomatoes 
may be treated in the same way, pricking the skins with a fork. 

Green Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds sugar, 8 pounds small 
green tomatoes, juice of 4 lemons, one-half ounce mace, one-half 
ounce ginger. Make a syrup of the sugar with a little hot water and 
put it on to boil with the mace and ginger and lemon juice. Prick 
the tomatoes with a fork and put them into the boiling syrup. Boil 
until the fruit is clear. Skim the fruit out of the syrup and pack it 
in jars. Let the syrup boil until thick, then pour it over the fruit. If 
the tomatoes are large, cut them around in halves, and then quarter 
the halves. This shape is preferable to slices. This will keep with- 
out sealing, but it is better to put it in small jars, as it is so rich that 
only a little is wanted at a time. 

Tomato Marmalade. — To 2 pounds of tomatoes allow 2 pounds 
of sugar and the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon ; scald the toma- 
toes, take off the skins, mix the sugar with them and boil them slowly 
for an hour, skimming and stirring; add the juice and grated rind of 
the lemons, and boil another half hour, or till it is a thick, smooth 
mass. 

Tomato Butter. — One bushel ripe tomatoes, half bushel apples, 5 
pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce allspice, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce 
cloves. Let it come to a boil. Add the apples peeled and cored. 
Let cook together, watching very carefully, more than half the day, 
then add the sugar. The juice must cook out of tbem, and it takes 
an entire day to cook properly. An hour before taking off add the 
spices. 



452 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

Melons. 

Watermelon Preserves. — Remove all the red part, pare the rinds, 
cut into 2-inch pieces and soak in weak alum water an hour. Some 
cooks soak over night in the alum water. Now boil in clear water, 
or steam until a fork pierces the pieces easily. Make a syrup of 1 
pound of white sugar to a pound of fruit ; add enough water to keep 
from burning; skim. Add the juice of 1 lemon to every 3 pounds 
of fruit, and the peeled yellow rind of the lemon. Set back from the 
fire a moment while skimming; violently boiling liquid cannot be 
skimmed. Boil the rinds in this syrup 1 hour, or until perfectly clear. 
Remove the lemon peel ; pack the fruit in jars and fill up with the 
boiling syrup, and seal, or simply put in a jar and tie up when cold. 
One and a half pounds of sugar and 1 pound of fruit are used where 
the preserve is wished unusually fine. Some housewives exercise 
great skill in cutting the watermelon rind in fancy shapes. Where 
this is to be done leave the rind in large pieces to soak in the alum 
water; this toughens it slightly, and it is then time to do the artistic 
work. Great pains are taken with this in Virginia. Stars and cres- 
cents, rings, oak leaves, etc., can be easily formed, and the effect of 
the translucent gold and topaz forms through the crystal glass jars is 
beautiful. For leaves, take the leaf itself for a pattern, and trace its 
outline with an ivory point, and go over the veinings as well. Then 
with a sharp-pointed blade of a penknife cut out the shapes them- 
selves and cut deep into the veinings so that they will show plainly. 
The rings can be cut out with a cake cutter and the disks taken from 
the centre with a thimble. These disks make pretty balls to fill up 
spaces. Some cooks add ginger-root cut thin, and boil in the syrup. 

Muskmelon Preserves.— Take perfectly green muskmelons, as 
late in the season as possible. If preserved while the weather is very 
hot, they are apt to ferment. Scrape the outer skin off the rind. Cut 
them through the middle. Remove the seeds, and cut the melon in 
any shape preferred. Soak them in salt and water over night, then 
in clear water 4 or 5 hours, changing the water several times. Then 
soak in alum water an hour. Rinse and put over to cook in water 
enough to cover, with a handful of peach leaves (if convenient) to 5 
pounds of melon, and a tablespoonful of ginger tied up in a cloth. 
The peach leaves turn the melon green, besides adding to its flavor. 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 453 

Boil the melons until you can pierce them with a straw. Make a 
syrup of white sugar, pound for pound. Add enough water to keep 
from burning. Let boil and skim. Put in the fruit and the ginger, 
and boil it in the syrup as long as can be done without breaking the 
rinds. If there is not enough syrup to cover, add a little water. 
When cold tie up in jars. In the course of a week pour off the 
syrup, scald and turn back over the fruit. Add sufficient essence of 
lemon to flavor it before turning back into jars. A fresh lemon may 
be sliced into jars when cold; 1 lemon to 2 or 3 pounds of the melon. 
Muskinelou Butter. — Take very ripe melons, so ripe as to be soft ; 
cut them open, take out the seeds, then scrape the melon from the 
rind with a knife, and to every 2 gallons of melon take 2^ pounds of 
brown sugar. Put in a kettle and boil the same as apple butter. 
Flavor while hot with lemon. Good. 

Pineapples. 

Pineapple Preserves. — Peel and slice, and allow a pound of 
white sugar to each pound of the sliced fruit. Put fruit and sugar 
in alternate layers in jars and let it stand 12 or 14 hours. Take out 
the fruit in the morning, add to the syrup 1 cupful of water for each 
4 pounds of pineapple. Boil the syrup until it thickens, skim, let 
cool. Put in the fruit, return to fire and boil very gently until tender. 
Take it from the syrup and pack in jars, and turn the syrup over it. 
It can be sealed hot, or tied up in jars when cold. If there should be 
in this case the slightest signs of fermentation, turn off the syrup 
immediately, scald and turn I^ack on the fruit. 

Grated Pineapple Preserves. — Preserved pineapple has all of 
the delicious flavor of the fruit, and besides being useful in all ways 
that ordinary preserves are useful, it is supremely good for filling in 
layer cakes. Take pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Shred the 
pineapple with a silver fork, after the eyes have been removed, until 
nothing is left but. the core. The core itself is tough and stringy, but 
it holds juice, and might be cooked to extract this, and then removed. 
Put fruit and sugar together, and cook slowly half an hour. 

Pineapple Marmalade. — Take ripe, juicy pineapples ; pare, cut 
out the specks, and grate on a coarse grater all but the core. Weigh 
and allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Cook from 20 
minutes to half an hour. 



454 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

Rhubarb. 

Rhubarb Jam. — Cut the rhubarb in pieces 1 inch long, take 
sugar pound for pound. Mix together and let stand all night. In 
the morning pour off the syrup and boil until it begins to thicken ; 
skim; add the rhubarb, and boil gently half an hour. Put up in tum- 
blers like jelly. It will keep a longtime. To each quart of rhubarb 
1 lemon can be added for flavor; juice and the outside yellow rind 
cut in bits. This can be canned if wished. 

Rhubarb and Ginger Preserve. — Wash, peel and cut up a suffi- 
cient quantity of rhubarb, not too young. Weigh it, and to every 
pound of rhubarb allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, which 
should be well crushed. Put all together in a large pan and let it 
stand all night, next day put it in a preserving pan with 1 pound of 
ginger-root, chipped up. Boil 1 hour. This makes an excellent 
preserve, the ginger giving it a nice flavor. 

Rhubarb and Fig- Jam. — Five pounds of rhubarb, 6 pounds of 
sugar ; cut the rhubarb in small pieces, sprinkle with the sugar, and 
let stand all night; chop pulp and peel of 3 lemons and 1 pound of 
figs quite fine ; add to the rhubarb ; boil several hours until quite 
thick ; put in jars same as jelly. 

Rhubarb Marmalade. — Peel 6 oranges, take away the white 
rinds and pips, slice the pulp and peel into a preserving kettle, cut 
very small; add a quart of rhubarb (finely cut), and from 1 to 1^ 
pounds of sugar. Boil down, same as for other preserves. Excellent. 

Plums. 

Phmi Preserves. — Select small purple plums, and be sure they 
are sound and not too ripe. Remove the stems, wash the fruit, and 
pierce each plum with a fork. Put into the kettle a cupful of water 
to every 6 pounds of fruit, and allow a pound of sugar for every pound 
of fruit. Place plums and sugar in the kettle in alternate layers, and 
boil slowly. The fruit must be closely watched, as it is apt to go to 
pieces in boiling. After it has boiled a short time remove from the 
kettle, and boil down the syrup. Plum preserves may be safely kept 
in a .stone jar. Four quarts of plums make P> quart jars of preserves. 

Plum Preserves. — II. The following rule is equally good for 
either damson or green-gage plums, the damsons being particularly 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 455 

nice to eat with meats. Make the syrup for all the plums to be pre- 
served at one time, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and 
a gill of water to a pound of sugar. Boil for 10 minutes; then put 
in the syrup only enough plums to fill 2 or 3 jars. Cook until 
they can easily be pierced with a straw ; then can, and put fresh fruit 
into the boiling s\'rup. If there is any syrup left over from preserv- 
ing the plums, put in enough sugar to make it jell, and cook a little 
longer. This makes a delicious jelly. 

Eg"g" Plum Preserves. — Pour boiling water over them, cover, 
and let them steam ; uncover and pour water off; rub the skins off, 
throw them away, weigh the fruit and put in a stone jar. Make a 
syrup, allowing 1 pound of white sugar and half a teacupful of water 
to each pound of fruit; let the sugar boil, then skim, pour the syrup 
over the plums and set them away. Next morning put all in a kettle 
and cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes; return the fruit and juice to the 
jar and let stand until cold ; then fit a piece of white paper close over 
the fruit, cover the jar with a double cloth, then with several thick- 
nesses of paper, and keep in dark, cool place. 

Pliiiu Jam. — Put the fruit, slightly broken, over the fire with- 
out any sugar. Set in a jar in a kettle of boiling water. It must be 
ripe and perfect — nothing else is fit to use. When it gets soft, re- 
move it from the fire, take out all the pits, break them with a ham- 
mer, and tie the broken shells, kernels and all, in a bit of old muslin. 
Put the fruit on again, adding a pound of sugar for each pound of 
fruit, after the pits have been removed. Drop in the bag of shells. 
Simmer for an hour, when it should be ready for putting into the jars. 

Plum Marmalade. — Scald and remove the skin of ripe plums ; 
take out the pits ; allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; mix 
the sugar and let it stand half an hour, then cool ; boil 20 minutes, 
then pour in small dishes and let stand to harden. Seal in glasses. 

Plum Butter. — Scald the plums until they crack open ; when 
cool, put them through a colander; measure the plums thus pre- 
pared, and add three-fourths the quantity of sugar ; season with any 
desired spice. Boil well 3 hours, and it will not require sealing. 

Plum Butter. — II. Plum butter is a pleasant accompaniment to 
cold meats, and is made as follows : Cook together until soft 4 quarts 
of plums previously scalded in soda water, and 4 quarts of crab- 
apples, with sufficient water to cover them. Press through a colander. 



456 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 



and allow 1 quart of sugar to 3 pints of the ]:)ulp. Add atablespoon- 
ful of cinnamon, a saltspoonful of cloves, and half a teacupful of good 
cider vinegar. Cook until thick and rich, stirring often to jDrevent 
its scorching. 

Braiulied Plums. — Make plum preserves by the second or third 
rule here given, add 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy to each quart can of 
fruit. Pack the fruit in cans and fill up with syrup. 

Cherries. 

Cherry Preserves. — Make a syrup, using pound for pound of 
sugar. Moisten the sugar with the juice of the cherries. Let this 

syrup come to a boil ; skim. Put in the 
fruit. Let boil until tender. Skim out care- 
fully, put in glass or stone jars, filling about 
two-thirds full. Boil down the syrup and fill 
the jars up with it. 

Cherry Marmalade. — Seed the fruit, add 
pound for pound of sugar. Boil gently, stir- 
ring and beating to make smooth. When 
done, put up in glasses like jelly. 

Braiidied Cherries. — Make a syrup of a 
pound of sugar and half a gill of water for 
every 2 pounds of fruit. Heat to boiling, 
stirring to prevent burning, pour over the 
fruit while warm, not hot. Let them stand together an hour. Put 
all into a preserving kettle and heat slowly, boil 5 minutes, take out 
with a perforated skimmer and boil the syrup 20 minutes. Add one- 
half pint brandy to the syrup for every 5 pounds of fruit, and pour 
over the cherries hot and seal. 




Cherry Stoner. 



Oranges. 

Orange Preserves. — Take equal weights of tart oranges and 
sugar. Grate the yellow rind from one-fourth of the oranges; cut 
all the fruit in halves. Pick out the pulp and free it from seeds. 
Drain off as much juice as you conveniently can, and put it on to 
boil with the sugar. Let it come to a boil, skim and simmer for 15 
minutes, then put in the pulp and the grated rind and boil for 15 
minutes longer. Put into glass tumblers or jars and seal the same as 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 457 

fruit jelly. Always put the preserves into tumblers or small jars, 
thereby doing away with the necessity of disturbing a larger quantity 
than is needed. 

Orang-e Marmalade. — English people always have marmalade of 
some description upon their breakfast table. Weigh the fruit before 
cutting it and allow three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar to 
a pound of fruit. Allow the rind and juice of 3 lemons to a dozen 
oranges. Remove the peel in quarters and boil it in plenty of water 
until it is tender ; drain off the water and let the peel cool. Remove 
the seeds and white skin from the pulp, place the pulp in a porcelain 
kettle with the sugar, and cook until it is quite thick. When the 
peel is cool place a number of pieces together and with a sharp knife 
cut them into thin shreds. When all are cut, add them to the cooked 
orange and mix thoroughly. Cool a little of the mixture in a saucer, 
and when it is as thick as required pour into jelly glasses. When it 
is cold, cover. 

Lemoii Marmalade. — Six lemons sliced very thin, taking out the 
seeds. To each pound of sliced fruit add 3 pints of cold water ; let 
this stand 24 hours. Then boil it until the chips are tender, pour 
into an earthen bowl and allow it to remain until next day. Then 
weigh it, and to every pound of boiled fruit add 1^ pounds of loaf 
sugar. Boil together till the syrup jellies and the chips are transparent. 

Berries. 

Blackberry Preserves. — Put the berries in a porcelain kettle, al- 
lowing a cupful of water to each quart of the fruit, and let it simmer 
till tender. Then add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each 
pound of berries, let it boil up, skim carefully, and it is ready for the 
cans. 

Blackberry Jam. — Three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound 
of berries. Rinse the fruit and put in the preserving kettle, stir con- 
stantly until part of the juice is evaporated, then add the sugar and 
simmer to a fine jam. This will be found better than putting the 
sugar in first; the seeds are not as hard in this case. A pint of cur- 
rant juice to every 5 pounds is an improvement to the flavor. Pour 
in glasses ; dip white paper in brandy and lay on the jam. Then seal 
with paper like jelly. The brandied paper is not absolutely neces- 
sary. Mark the jars on outside as to what the contents are. 



458 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

Braiuliod Blaokberries. — For bran died blackberries, make a 
syrup of half a teacup of blackberry juice to a pound of sugar. Al- 
low a half pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let the syrup 
boil up. Add the blackberries to the syrup ; let them cook rapidly 
for about 20 minutes. Remove them from the fire, add one-half cup- 
ful brandy to each quart, and bottle them. Very healthful in the 
summer. 

Raspberry Jam. — Make precisely like Blackberry Jam. Use 
either black or red raspberries. 

Red Raspberries isi Currant Jelly. — A new and attractive con- 
serve. Take equal quantities of red raspberries and red currants. 
Heat the currants on the stems in a porcelain kettle, bruising a few to 
start the juice ; then squeeze a few at a time through a clolh strainer 
till the juice is extracted. Measure the juice, and for every pint put 
in the oven 2 teacupfuls of granulated sugar. Boil the juice 10 min- 
utes, then add the raspberries, and at the end of 20 minutes, the sugar. 
Let the mixture boil from 3 to 5 minutes, then turn into cups or bowls. 

Raspberry Preserves. — Make same as Blackberry Preserves, 

Strawberry Preserves. — Pound for pound ; rinse the berries, and 
put with sugar in a preserving kettle over a slow fire until the sugar 
melts. Boil rapidly 25 minutes. Take out the fruit with a skimmer, 
and fill cans two-thirds full. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer; 
skim ; fill up the jars. Seal hot and keep in a cool, dry place. 

Strawberry Jam — Make same as raspberry jam, omitting the 
currant juice ; use white sugar. Strawberries are the first fruit to be 
put up, and as they have the entire heated term to go through, must 
be carefully watched. 

Whole Gooseberry Preserves. — For every quart of gooseberries 
take 1 pound of granulated sugar, and dissolve it in the preserving 
kettle with as much water as it will take to make a syrup. Let it 
boil for 20 minutes, skimming well ; then put in the gooseberries, and 
boil 5 minutes; then set by till the next day, when boil again until 
they have a clear look and the syrup is thick. Put up in jelly glasses, 
with brandied paper on top. 

Gooseberry Jam. — Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to 
turn. Stem, wash and weigh. To 4 pounds of fruit add half a tea- 
cup of water; boil until soft, and add 4 pounds of sugar and boil 
until clear. If packed at the right stage the jam will be amber- 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 459 

colored and firm, and very much nicer than if the fruit is preserved 
when ripe. 

Barberry Preserves. — Take ripe barberries, leaving them on the 
stem. Make a pound for pound syrup, putting in half cupful of 
water to each pound of sugar ; let boil up and skim. Drop in the 
barberries, letting the syrup cool partially fir.'^t. Boil until thoroughly 
penetrated by the syrup. Tie up in glass jars. A very ornamental 
preserve. Preserved barberries mixed with cold water forms a re- 
freshing drink, and is especially good in fevers. 

Barberry Jam. — Free the berries from stems and allow an equal 
weight of sugar. Put them in the preserving kettle with just water 
enough to cover. Let them cook slowly, and when the juice is 
drawn out, add the sugar and simmer, stirring often. Turn into 
small jars and cover with paper. If the seeds are objectionable, the 
jam should be strained before adding the sugar. 

Preserved Huckleberries (for Pies). — Use firm, large, ripe fruit, 
picking over carefully. Put them in a large stone jar and cover them 
with good, sound molasses. Set them in a cold place in the cellar, 
seal them up, and do not disturb till cold weather, when they may 
be opened and the berries used from time to time, being kept under 
the simple earthen cover of the jar. A cup of vinegar to a quart of 
molasses is certainly an addition. Pies made from huckleberries put 
up in this way are a great deal better than those made from dried 
fruit or fruit canned in a more elaborate way. Drain from the mo- 
lasses before using. 

Huckleberry Preserves. — Two gallons of berries picked from 
the stems ; 5 pounds of sugar; 1 pint of strong vinegar. Stew down 
thick. They will keep without canning. 

Elderberry Preserves. — Make same as huckleberry preserves. 
Very healthful. 

Cranberry Preserves. — Take pound for pound of fruit and sugar. 
Put a little water in the bottom of the preserving kettle and boil until 
tender. 

Currant Preserves. — Make same as raspberry preserves. Use 
pound for pound, boiling a little longer. 

Currant Jam (Red or White). — Make same as blackberry jam. 
For white currants use pound for pound of pulverized sugar. Stir 
and mash frequently. Seal hot, if wished. 



460 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

Cnrraut and liaisin Juiii. — Take 3 pounds of sugar, 1 pound 
of raisins, 8)2 pounds of currants, 1 orange and 1 pint of water. Cut 
the raisins in two and seed them, then cook them for 1 hour or more 
in the pint of water. Pick over the currants, and put them on to cook 
in the preserving kettle. Add the orange juice and cook for 15 
minutes after the fruit begins to boil. Remove the seeds from the 
orange, and after chopping the pulp and peel very fine, rub through 
the sugar. When the currants have been boiling for 15 minutes, add 
the other ingredients to them and cook for 15 minutes longer. Put 
into jelly glasses, and when cold cover. This quantity will fill 12 
glasses. 

Raisiu Jam. — Wash and seed 1 pound of large sweet raisins ; 
put them on to cook with half a pound of sugar, 1 cup of water and 
half a grated nutmeg. Cook until thick ; when cold it is ready to 
seal. 

Sweet Potato Preserves. — Make syrup as for peaches. Parboil 
the potatoes, first cutting in round slices, and boil in syrup until 
clear. 

Tiitti Frutti Preserves. — Put a quart of brandy in a two-gallon 
jar ; then, as they come into market, add 1 pint bowl of strawberries 
and the same of sugar ; then cherries in the same way, and black- 
berries, peaches, pears, currants, pineapples, bananas, oranges ; one- 
half pint of lemons and 1 pint of sugar. Remember to always put in 
the sugar every time you put in the fruit, and stir well from the bot- 
tom of the jar. A double quantity of peaches may be added, if de- 
sired. Keep in a cool place, well covered. Do not mash berries or 
fruit. Prepare large fruit as for preserves, quartering, peeling. Add, 
if possible, 1 bowl of black cherries to improve the color. Ready in 
a week after last fruit is put in. 

Cnciiinbev Preserves. — Gather young cucumbers a little longer 
than your middle finger, and lay in strong brine 1 week. Wash 
them, and soak them 1 day and night in fair water, changing this 4 
times. Line a bell-metal kettle with vine leaves, lay in the cucum- 
bers, with a little alum scattered among them ; fill up with clear 
water, cover with vine leaves, then with a close lid, and green, as for 
pickles. Do not let them boil. W'hen well greened, drop in ice 
water. When perfectly cold, wipe, and with a small knife slit down 
one side ; dig out the seeds ; stuff with a mixture of chopped raisins 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 461 

and citron ; sew up the incision with fine thread. Weigh them, and 
make a syrup, allowing a pound of sugar for every one of cucumbers, 
with a pint of water. Heat to a lively boil, skim, and drop in the 
fruit. Simmer half an hour, take out, spread upon a dish in the sun, 
while you boil down the syrup, with a few slices of ginger root added. 
When thick, put in the cucumbers again, simmer 5 minutes, and put 
in glass jars, tying them up when cold. An odd, and also a singu- 
larly delicious sweetmeat. 

Fig- Preserves. — Take the weight in sugar of the quantity of figs 
to be preserved ; the figs must be ripe. Cover the figs with cold 
water for 12 hours; then simmer in water enough to cover them 
until tender, and spread out upon a sieve to cool and harden. Make 
a syrup of the sugar, a cup of cold water being allowed for every 
pound. Boil until clear of scum, put in the figs, and simmer for 10 
minutes. Take them out and spread upon the dishes in the sun. 
Add the lemons and the ginger ; boil the syrup thick, give the figs 
another boil of 1 5 minutes, and fill the jars three-quarters of the way 
up to the top. Then fill up with boiling syrup, cover, and when cold, 
seal up. 

Prune Preserves. — Pour boiling water on the prunes, and set 
where they will keep warm. When swelled to the original size, put 
to each pound of the prunes one-half pound of brown sugar, and 1 
stick of cinnamon. If there is not enough water remaining to cover 
the prunes, add more, and stew in this syrup one-fourth of an hour. 
Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon to every 3 pounds of prunes. 
Do this just before removing from the fire. Pit the prunes. 

Preserved Walnuts and Prunes. — Shell 24 walnuts, divide them 
into halves. Take 1 pound of prunes, soak over night, and remove 
the stones. Save the water in which they have been soaked, to which 
add 1 cup of sugar. Boil for a moment and skim. Then add the 
walnuts and prunes. Cover, and stand on the back part of the stove 
for at least 30 minutes, until the syrup is thick and dark, the prunes 
tender, and the walnuts soft. Serve cold, as other preserves. 

Apricot Preserves. — Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as 
thinly as possible, break them in half, and remove the stones; weigh 
the fruit, and to every pound allow the same of sugar; strew it over 
the apricots, which should be placed on dishes and allowed to remain 
for 12 hours ; break the stones, blanch the kernels, and put them with 



462 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

the fruit and sugar in a preserving pan ; let simmer very gently for 
about three-quarters of an hour ; take out the pieces of apricot, boil 
this syrup a little longer, and as fast as the scum arises remove it; 
put the apricots into jars, pour over them the syrup and kernels, and 
cover in the usual way. 

Pumpkin Preserves. — Divide, peel, and remove the seeds ; cut 
in small, square pieces. For each pound of the pumpkin to be pre- 
served, take 1 pound of pulverized or granulated sugar. Put the 
})umpkin in a deep dish with alternate layers of sugar sprinkled 
thickly over the top. Pour in lemon juice, one-half cupful to 1 pound 
of pumpkin. Let stand 24 hours. Then boil the whole together, 
with one-half pint of water to every 3 pounds of pumpkin, 1 table- 
spoonful of ginger, tied in a cloth, and the peel of the lemons shred- 
ded. When the pumpkin is tender, put in jars. In a few days pour 
off the syrup, boil up, and pour over the pumpkin hot. Very nice. 
Vinegar may be substituted for the lemon juice, in which case a lemon 
may be sliced in the preserves when cold. 

Preserved Squash. — First peel the squash and cut it in pieces 
an inch thick and 4 inches long. Put it over the fire with cold water 
till it comes to a boil, and let it boil a k\v minutes. Then turn off 
the water and put a piece of cinnamon and a clove in each piece, 
and then put the squash in stone jars. Then boil a quart of vinegar, 
a pint of water and 2 pounds of sugar together and put this brine, 
boiling, over the squash. Then turn off the brine three days in suc- 
cession and boil it over again and put it boiling over the squash, same 
as the first time. Then when cold put it in glass jars. 

Persiiuiuoii Preserves. — Select firm, ripe persimmons, and take 
the equivalent of their weight in sugar. Let the persimmons lie in 
cold water for 12 hours. Put them on the fire in enough water to 
cover them and stew gently until tender. Remove, drain and spread 
them out to become cool and firm. Make a syrup by adding a cup- 
ful of cold water to every pound of sugar and boiling until clear, 
skimming constantly. When clear, put in the persimmons and cook 
10 minutes. Take them out, spread again upon dishes and set these 
in the sun. Add the juice and peel of a couple of lemons to the syrup, 
boil it thick, return the persimmons to it, cook 20 minutes more, 
pour into glass jars. Seal when cold. 



PRESERVES AND JAMS. 463 

Fruits Dried in Sugar. 

Fig-g-ed Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed them ; then boil, until 
tender, in water just sufficient to cover them, as many of the halves 
as will lie comfortably on the bottom of a preserving kettle — they 
must not crowd nor boil too long nor hard, for fear of tearing apart 
or becoming over soft. Sprinkle them with plenty of sugar while 
boiling. When tender put the peaches on platters and set them out 
in the sun to remain until they are thoroughly dried and figged, then 
pack away in jars or boxes, with sugar sprinkled between each layer. 

Peacli Leather. — To each pound of ripe peaches allow one-fourth 
pound of granulated sugar, wipe, but do not pare the peaches, remove 
the stones, add the sugar and cook slowly, stirring and mashing all 
the while until dry enough to spread in thin sheets on oiled paper on 
boards, or well- greased brown paper. Have the sheet not over one- 
sixteenth of an inch thick. Stand in the sun to dry, and when dry 
lift like a sheet of leather, put it on a baking-board and with a rolling- 
pin roll lightly until it is perfectly even. Now roll it up as you would 
a roll of noodles. Wrap it in wax paper, put away in a tin box, and 
when ready to use cut thin slices from the end, allowing it to remain 
in the roll. A nice addition to after-dinner sweets. 

Dried Peaches. — Halve the fruit, remove the stones, fill the cavi- 
ties with white sugar and dry in a moderate oven. The fruit, if first- 
class peaches are used, will be found delicious, almost equal when 
stewed to preserves, and far more healthful and economical. 

Dried Plums. — Plums may be dried with the stones in, to retain 
the full plum flavor, or the pits may be removed and the cavities filled 
with sugar. Put them on plates in the sun, sprinkling with sugar and 
turning often. The finish may be made in a cool oven. 

Dried Peaches, Plums and Apples. — Pit, peel and cut to suit; 
dry partly and then pack them in jars, spreading sugar thickly be- 
tween the layers. Tie down and they will keep well and be delicious 
for pies or sauce. They may also be dried without sugar. 

Tomato Figs. — Allow half a pound of coffee-sugar to every pound 
of tomatoes. The yellow plum tomatoes, or the very small and per- 
fectly smooth red ones, are preferred for this method of preserving. 
Put the sugar on the stove with just water enough to melt it. As 
soon as it boils, put the tomatoes in whole with the skins on. Draw 



464 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 

the kettle back where they will simmer gently. Cook until trans- 
parent, about 2 hours. Skim them out carefully, and drain off all the 
syrup. Spread them on platters to dry, in the sun, if possible. Sprinkle 
a little sugar over them while drying, and the next day turn them, 
and sprinkle again with sugar. Do so for 2 or 3 days. When suffi- 
ciently dry, pack in boxes. Seven pounds of tomatoes will make 2 
quarts of figs. 

Home-iiuide Citron. — Take watermelon rind, trim off the green 
outside, cut in thin slices and stew with an equal quantity of sugar, 
cooking until the syrup thickens. Then dry on plates in the sun or 
moderate oven. Keep in close jar. Bottle the syrup, and use for 
flavoring. Use in fruit cake same as citron. 

Dried Gooseberries. — To 7 pounds of red gooseberries add 1 ^ 
pounds of sugar. Let them stand over night, or 24 hours, mixed with 
the sugar. Then scald until they break. 

Dried Currauts, Blackberries, Raspberries and Cherries. — Dry 
in the same manner as gooseberries. Use more sugar if desired. 
Cherries can be dried without sugar. 

Dried Pumpkin. — Prepare a large kettleful as for stewing. Let 
boil briskly until all the water has evaporated, then let boil slowly, 
stirring often until very dry and beginning to brown .slightly. Put 
on plates in a moderate oven to dry. Hang up in a close tied paper 
bag. When wanted for use take a piece the size of an egg and put it 
in a quart of warm milk over night. 

Pineapple Chips. — Select large, perfectly souitd pines; pare them 
and cut into very thin slices. Weigh and allow 1 pound of sugar to 
each pound of pineapple. Put these slices on platters and strew over 
the sugar. Stand them in a warm place (like a drying closet) for a 
week. Turn the fruit every day until dry. Now put them in a hot 
oven for 10 minutes. When cool put them away in tin boxes with 
waxed pa]:ier between. This will keep all winter. 

Orange Chips. — Cut the oranges in quarters and carefully squeeze 
all juice through a sieve. Soak the peel in water, and the next day 
boil until tender. Drain and slice the peel, put it into the juice, weigh 
as much sugar and put all together into a broad earthen dish. Place 
over the fire at a moderate distance, often stirring till the chip- candy 
and then put them in a cold room to dry. They will be sufficiently 
dry in three weeks. 





Jellies may be covered with waxed 
paper, brandied paper or more readily and 
efficiently by pouring over the top of the jelly, when 
quite cold, enough melted paraffin to exclude the air. 
This hardens at once, may be readily removed when the 
jelly is to be used and is capable of being re-used for an 
indefinite number of times. Any cheap paper may then be 
put over the top of the tumbler or jar to protect from dust. The 
paraffin is a clear white wax, odorless and tasteless, perfectly pure and 
harmless in every way. Egg paper, or white paper dipped in the 
whites of egg, is very good. Use one or more of these. It not only 
excludes the air, but at the same time it cements itself to the glass. 
Put a small rubber band around the paper to hold in place until dry. 
Keep all preserves, jellies and canned fruits in a cool, dark, dry place. 
The fruits most commonly used for jelly are strawberries, cur- 
rants, apples, peaches, crabapples, quinces and raspberries. Of these, 
crabapple and quince jelly most easily ; strawberries and raspberries 
are the hardest to manage. If you find jellies are becoming candied, 
put a layer of pulverized sugar a quarter of an inch deep on the top, 
under the paper, and it will keep in good condition for years. Jelly 
may be prevented from moulding by the same process. Any fruit jelly 
may be easily removed from the mould by setting it in water as hot 
as your hand will bear for a few minutes. The jelly looks much bet- 
ter when turned out in this way. 

A rose geranium leaf dropped in the jelly glass before pouring in 
hot apple jelly, will lend a delicious and unusual flavor to what is a 
rather tasteless compound. The leaf will soon float to the top, but 
let it remain till the jelly is wanted for use. Still another flavor may 
be obtained by using lemon verbena leaves in the same wa}^ 

Serviceable jelly glasses may be made of bottles. Take a good 
strong string (one-third of a clothes line after it is untwisted will do), 
dip in kerosene, and tie around the bottle where you want it to break. 
Light, and as it burns the glass will break. 

30 465 



466 



JELLIES. 



For good jelly, the fruit must be quite fresh, not over-ripe or 
under-ripe, first because it will not easily jelly under those circum- 
stances, and is, if under-ripe, too acid to give a pleasant taste. 
Neither should the fruit be gathered immediately after a rain. Jelly 
should never stop boiling until done. Strawberry jelly may be made 
in small quantities when there is too much juice left from canning 
them. 

Jelly, if wanted very clear, may be strained before putting in 
glasses. Use a flannel bag, make it pointed in shape. Let drip 

slowly through and do not squeeze or 
stir. Hang the bag near the stove, as 
this will prevent the jelly thickening. 
Another way to seal up jellies or 
w"^ jams is by using a paste made by stir- 
ring 1 teaspoonful of flour in 2 of cold 
water ; when mixed perfectly smooth 
and free from lumps, add more cold 
water until it is so thin that it runs 
freely. Cut thin brown paper round 
and an inch larger than the top of the 
glass or jar; dip it in the paste until 
Jelly Moulds. -^g^- thoroughly, then put over the glass 

or jar, pressing it down tightly ; when dry it will be entirely air-tight 
and the fruit will keep perfectly. A rubber ring will hold it in place 
while drying. 

Before fruit is set away it should be labeled. The name written 
in ink on white paper and pasted on the side of the glass, jar or can 
is most convenient. Five drops of glycerine added to each ounce of 
flour paste used for putting the labels on glass or tin will make them 
adhere and effectually prevent them from curling up and coming off. 
General Kule for Jellies. — The requisites for jelly-making are a 
good quality stone jar, capable of containing, say 2 gallons of fruit ; 
a large pan, in which the jar can stand upon the range ; an earthen 
dish of large size, into which the fruit juice may drip; two long- 
handled wooden spoons, a coarse cloth jelly bag, which is best made 
of loosely woven white flannel of good quality ; several shallow tins, 
in which to heat the sugar in the oven, and a full assortment of jelly 
glasses. 




JELLIES. 467 

First (these are the rules for making currant jelly) currants should 
be washed and stemmed. Put the fruit in the stone jar, crush it with 
a potato-masher, set the jar, covered, in the large pan of water. Have 
a very hot fire in the range. Let the water boil until the fruit is re- 
duced to a pulp. Put the fruit by cupfuls in the jelly bag (or a 
coarse towel will answer). Close the bag and press out the juice into 
the earthen dish with the wooden spoon. 

Another excellent way of getting the juice out of the bag is to 
suspend the latter from a hook in some convenient shelf, and then to 
squeeze the bag between two spoons. When two or three portions of 
pulp have been handled, the bag should be turned inside out and the 
juiceless pulp thrown away, as otherwise the bag will get clogged and 
the juice will cease to flow freely. Measure the juice and put in a 
stone jar, or a preserving kettle. To each pint of juice allow a pound 
of sugar, and while the juice is boiling measure out the sugar into 
several different portions, putting it into the shallow tins and placing 
these tins within the oven to heat. Stir the sugar occasionally to 
prevent scorching, and line the tins with light-brown paper. The 
juice should be boiled 20 minutes — 20 minutes from the time it com- 
mences to boil. Skim thoroughly and add the heated sugar by cup- 
fuls, stirring constantly. Then let it come to a boil and remove from 
the range. Fill the jelly glasses full and allow the jelly to cool be- 
fore sealing. If the jelly does not set at once, stand the glasses in a 
sunny window. 

Blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, cherry, grape and cranberry 
jellies are made in exactly the same way — a pint of juice to a pound 
of sugar, and the fruits boiled to a pulp and strained through a bag. 
Blackberry, grape and cranberry need nothing but their own flavors, 
but in the case of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, some slight ad- 
dition is needed. With the strawberry the juice of 1 lemon should 
be added for each pint of the strawberry juice. This lemon juice 
should be put in just after straining and before the strawberry juice 
is boiled. For cherry jelly the same quantity of lemon is necessary. 
For raspberry, add one-third the quantity of currant juice, prepared 
in precisely the same manner. Sweet apples will not jelly. 

Apple Jelly. — For this use tart, juicy apples, wiping them with a 
damp cloth. Quarter the fruit and cut away all defective parts, but 
neither peel nor core them, Place the apples in a preserving kettle 



468 JELLIES. 

and almost cover them with cold water. Let them stew to a pulp. 
Turn into a cheese-cloth bag and hang this over an earthenware bowl 
for several hours — all night, if convenient. Measure the juice, return 
it to the preserving kettle and heat it ; skim. Boil the juice 5 min- 
utes, and then to every pint of liquid add three-fourths of a pound of 
sugar that has been heated in the oven. When the sugar is melted 
try the jelly by dropping a little on a cold dish. If it congeals it is 
ready to mould ; if not, boil and try again until it is of proper con- 
sistency, when it may be turned into bowls and sealed. For dessert 
turn it into a pudding dish and pour cold boiled custard or sweetened 
whipped cream about it. The pulp, stewed with white sugar, can be 
used for jam puddings, or is very nice put into a glass dish, covered 
thickly with sugar, then a layer of thinly-sliced sponge cake, and a 
nice custard poured over all. The juice of half a dozen lemons to 
1 peck of apples gives a delicious flavor to the jelly. Even 3 
lemons to the same amount of apples is a great improvement. Be 
careful not to squeeze the pulp, or the jelly will not be as clear as it 
otherwise would be. 

Red Apple Jelly. — A beautiful jelly can be made of red apples 
by washing and halving the apples, but not paring or coring them. 

Cidei- Apple Jelly. — Take apples ; wipe and slice them ; use 
seeds, skins and all ; cook soft in cider enough to cover them ; strain 
through cloth laid in sieve; add a pound of sugar to pint of juice and 
boil up a few minutes. 

Ecouoniieal Apple Jelly. — In large families, when paring apples 
for pies or sauce, wash the apples beforehand, and then take the par- 
ings and the perfect cores, put into a saucepan, fill with water just to 
cover them and let boil half or three-quarters of an hour ; then 
strain; add as much sugar as juice and boil it fast for 20 minutes. 
Add a little vinegar or lemon juice for flavoring ; put in glasses, and 
the result will be a nice, inexpensive jelly, especially useful where 
there are children and lunches to put up. 

Quince Jelly. — Peel, quarter and core the quinces, cover with 
cold water and cook to a pulp. Put in a jelly bag and let it drip 
through, but do not squeeze; measure the juice, put on a fire and 
boil 20 minutes. Then, adding a pound of sugar to every pint, let 
boil 2 or 3 minutes. First, heat the sugar. Take up in glasses, cover 
and set in a cool, dry place. In making quince jelly be sure and re- 



JELLIES. 469 

move the seeds from the fruit, or the jelly will be ropy. Take the 
pulp left in the jelly bag and squeeze out all the juice. Put 1 large 
cupful df sugar to each pint of the juice. Boil and skim. Put in 
glasses. It will be good jelly, but not clear as the first. Or the 
pulp may be made into a marmalade by adding one-half pound of 
sugar to each pound of the fruit pulp. Boil it down until thick and 
smooth. 

Quince and Apple Jelly. — Cut small and core an equal amount 
of tart apples and quinces. Boil the quinces until soft in water 
enough to cover them. Then add the apples and boil together, 
adding more water if needed, until all is a pulp. Put in a jelly-bag 
and strain without pressing. Boil 15 or 20 minutes, and to each pint 
of liquid add 1 pound of sugar and boil 5 minutes, or until it will 
" set " or jelly when a little is dropped on a cold plate. 

Ripe Grape Jelly. — Stem, wash, put in a stone jar, stand the jar 
in a kettle of boiling water, and boil until the gi'apes are soft. Strain 
through a jelly-bag. Allow granulated sugar pound for pound, boil 
20 or o() minutes, add the sugar, which should have been heated, 
and boil 5 minutes longer. Pour in glasses. Seal when cold. 

Grape and Apple Jelly. — Stem the grapes, and prepare for 
straining as above. At the same time quarter and core, but not 
pare, juicy, tart apples. Cook and press out the juice, same as for 
apple jelly. When the juice has been expressed from both apples 
and grapes, take one-third apple juice to two-thirds grape juice. 
Boil two quarts only of this mixture at a time. Twenty miuutes 
from the time the juice begins to boil, add gradually 8 teacupfuls of 
granulated sugar, which was heating in a very hot oven while the juice 
was boiling. Boil 5 minutes, then pour into jelly-cups. Seal when 
cold. Mild grapes make a delicious jelly. 

Green Grape Jelly. — Pick the grapes from the stems and put 
them into a jar that holds about 2 quarts and a pint of cold water. 
Place this jar in a vessel of boiling water, and leave until the 
fruit is thoroughly scalded. Mash the fruit with a potato masher 
while scalding, to extract the juice faster. Let strain through a flannel 
jelly-bag. Measure the juice, and allow a pound of sugar to every 
pint of juice. Put the juice over the fire to boil in a porcelain-lined 
kettle and the sugar in the oven to heat. Stir the sugar and the juice 
occasionally. When the juice has boiled down 20 minutes, add the 



470 



JELLIES. 




Melon Mould. 



sugar, and after one moment's boiling the jelly should be ready to 
put into bowls. Test it by cooling a little on ice, and if it has not 
"come," boil it a moment or two longer. If the grapes are gathered 
at exactly the right time, this jelly will not have a tinge of purple 
about it ; if it is not already the right color, it may be made the exact 
color of the Malaga grape by a few drops of spinach green added just 
before the jelly is ready for the bowls and after the color has been 
tested. By putting in a handful of ri2:)e fruit, it will make it a delicate 
pink color. This green-grape jelly can be made from the cultivated 
varieties, but the wild grape is best of all, especially the wild fox grape. 
Siberian Crabapple Jelly. — Remove the stems and blossom- 
ends. Cut out any defects, and put over to 
boil, with just enough water to cover. Stew 
slowly until almost a pulp. Strain and 
squeeze very lightly. The best way is to 
put in a jelly bag and let drip over an 
earthen dish all night. In the morning boil 
the juice 20 minutes, skim, measure, and 
then add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of the 
juice. Let boil 3 or 5 minutes, and put in glasses. Heat the sugar 
before using. This is a jelly that never fails. It is excellent for cake 
and to serve with desserts, but it is not as suitable to serve with 
meats as are red and black currant, damson and barberry jellies. 

Spiced Crabapple Jelly. — To 5 pounds of apples 1 pint of 
water, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of all kinds of spices ; whole 

cloves and stick cinnamon are better than 
ground; stew 5 or 6 hours, then let it 
stand over night; then strain and add 
as much sugar as juice. Boil 30 minutes. 
Currant Jelly. — See " General Rule 
for Jellies." For straining the fruit in the 
jelly-bag, the simplest and easiest way is 
to reverse a common four-legged stool, 
take a good-sized square piece of flannel, 
secure firmly the four corners to the four 
legs, allowing considerable dip in the 
centre, and stand a clean earthenware bowl below this bag, on the 
inverted seat. Put well-mashed fruit into this, and leave it out of 




Jelly Mould. 



JELLIES. 471 

harm's way for the juice to drain through. Do not attempt to squeeze 
it, or you will cloud your jelly; keep your " squeezings " for a jelly 
of second quality. Some cooks simply pick over the currants care- 
fully, not even stemming them (wash if gritty), mash with a potato 
masher, and then strain all night in a flannel bag. 

Uncooked Currant Jelly. — Prepare the fruit as above, mashing 
and straining the fruit raw. Put the juice in a stone jar, add granu- 
lated sugar in the proportion of pound for pound, with the juice, 
stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Dip out 
or strain into tumblers ; let stand until it stiffens, and cover with egg- 
paper. A very nice way. 

White Currant Jelly. — Make as above, straining, not squeezing 
the fruit, to prevent discoloration of the juice. Proceed same as for 
Uncooked Jelly. Seal up with egg-paper. In several weeks the 
jelly will harden perfectly and be very clear. 

Blackberry Jelly. — Use fruit picked before it is dead ripe. Part 
of it should be red. Make the jelly precisely the same as currant 
jelly, except that three-fourths of a pound of sugar is sufficient for 1 
pint of juice. 

Blackberry Table Jelly. — Stew the berries, crush, and strain out 
the juice, as above. After it is cool, soak 1 box of gelatine in a pint 
of juice, sweeten to the taste, add a quart of boiling water, and strain 
into moulds. It is served with whipped cream, is very pleasing in 
appearance, and delicious to the taste, but is not especially nutritive. 

Raspberry and Currant Jelly. — A jelly much prized for its 
peculiar delicate flavor can be made by taking equal quantities of 
currants and red raspberries and putting them through the strainer 
together. Then proceed with the juice as though it were of pure 
currants. 

Raspberry Jelly. — Crush the raspberries without scalding, strain, 
and proceed as for blackberry jelly. Do not have the raspberries 
over ripe. 

Cranberry Jelly. — One and a half pounds of berries ; 1 pint of 
water; cook thoroughly; strain through a jelly-bag. Cook the juice 
15 minutes ; skim ; add as much sugar as there is juice. Boil again 
15 minutes, and pour into jelly glasses. 

Rhubarb or Pie-plant Jelly, — Cut into nice lengths 7 pounds 
of good rhubarb, without peeling ; put it in the preserving pan with 



472 JELLIES. 

1 breakfast cupful of cold water; allow it to simmer gently until all 
juice is extracted; then give it a rapid boil, and run it through the 
jelly-bag; to each pint of juice add 1 pound of white sugar. When 
the sugar melts boil it for JO or 15 minutes. Then try it by cooling 
on ice, or dropping a spoonful on a cold plate. If boiled too long, 
there is danger of it becoming syrupy. A delicious jelly. 

Rhubarb and Apple Jelly. — Peel and cut up 1 good-sized bun- 
dle of rhubarb; peel, core and quarter 3 pounds of apples, the thin 
rind and the juice of half a dozen lemons; put all together into the 
preserving kettle with 1}< pints of water. Boil until reduced to a pulp ; 
strain the juice through a jelly strainer, weigh, and allow 1 pound of 
loaf sugar to every pound of juice. Boil up the juice, add the sugar, 
boil, skim well, and when it jellies on the skimmer, pour into glasses, 
and when cold tie or seal down. 

Orange Jelly. — Peel the oranges and run them through a fruit- 
press, if you have one ; if not, cut the oranges in two crosswise and 
rub the juice and pulp through a sieve. A 
lemon-squeezer or any device of that kind will 
not do, as the pulp must be taken wilh th.e 
juice. If you have 2 quarts of juice and pulp, 
cook it down to 3 pints, then add sugar pound 

for pint, and treat as any other ielly. Of course 
Oval Jelly Mould. ... , ^ j 4.1 ,. 1 -4^4-1 ■u^ r ^\ 

it IS understood that as little as possible of the 

white portion of the orange will be allowed in it, as that makes it 

bitter. The jelly glasses should be kept dark by wrapping in paper. 

Plum Jelly. — Take sound plums, remove the stems and make an 

incision in each one to cause the juice to start quicker. Put the fruit 

in a stone jar, cover, stand in kettle of cold water. Let the water boil 

around it for an hour, and the plums should have by that time the 

juice drawn out thoroughly. Strain through a flannel bag. Let drip 

several hours, or press lightly in a fruit-press, or with wooden spoons. 

If you wish the jelly very clear do not press very much. Measure 

three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Put the 

sugar to heat in the oven, boil the juice over the fire. When the juice 

has boiled 25 minutes add the sugar. Test the jelly as soon as it 

boils again, and as soon as it forms a jelly, pour it into glasses. Some 

cooks crack a few of the pits and stew with the plums; this gives a 

pleasant flavor. If the plums are not squeezed in straining the juice, 




JELLIES. 473 

the pulp may be made into a nice marmalade by adding three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of the pulp, and cooking until it 
thickens. 

Wild Plum Jelly. — Wash the fruit and boil in water enough to 
cover until the plums are a pulp. Strain, weigh the juice, add three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of juice, and make same as 
above rule. Do not squeeze the pulp — simply strain off the juice and 
make marmalade of the remainder. 

Tomato Jelly. — Peel the tomatoes and squeeze through a cloth, 
or stew and strain; weigh the juice and add pound for pound of white 
sugar. Boil to a jelly and seal up. Keep in a cool, dry place. Flavor 
with lemon-juice if wished. This is an excellent article. Serve with 
roast meat. 

Savory Tomato Jelly. — To a can of tomatoes add a sprig of pars- 
ley, bay leaf, 4 cloves stuck in an onion, pepper and salt. Let boil till 
soft. Remove spices, add 1 ounce of gelatine already softened, and a 
dash of lemon-juice. Strain, rubbing as much pulp through as pos- 
sible, put in mould. Serve it, when set, with celery mayonnaise, 
cold-slaw, lettuce salad, or anything that sliced tomatoes would be 
offered with. 

Pear Jelly. — Pear jelly is made exactly like quince, but requires 
a little longer boiling after the sugar is added. 

Peacli Jelly. — Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in the 
jar with the peaches, which should be pared, stoned and sliced. Heat 
in a pot of boiling water, stirring from time to time until the fruit is 
well broken. Strain, and to every pint of peach juice add the juice 
of a lemon. Measure again, allowing a pound of sugar to a pint of 
liquid. Heat the sugar very hot and add when the juice has boiled 20 
minutes; skim. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the fire. 
Delicious for jelly cake. 

Strawberry Jelly. — Select berries that are rather under than 
over ripe. Put the berries into a stone jar, stand it in a kettle of cold 
water, cover the top of the jar, and boil slowly for 1 hour, or until 
the berries are quite soft, but not broken to any extent. Run through 
a jelly bag without pressing. If the juice is not perfectly clear, strain 
again through muslin. Measure, and to each pint of the juice allow 
1 pint of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a porcelain-lined 
kettle over a brisk fire. Put the sugar in earthen dishes, and stand 



474 JELLIES. 

them in the oven to heat. Boil gently 15 minutes, skim, then add 
the hot sugar and boil 10 minutes. Pour in glasses and seal when 
cold. Make a marmalade of the fruit pulp by adding one-half pound 
of sugar to 1 jjound of the pulp, and boiling until it thickens. 

Green Gooseberry Jelly. — Put the berries, after removing their 
tops and tails, and wiping them well, in a i)an and cover with water; 
place a plate upon them to keep them down, and cook till soft; then 
strain them through muslin or a very fine hair sieve, leaving them to 
drain for several hours. To each pint of juice allow three-quarters 
of a pound of preserving sugar, and boil together, skimming occa- 
sionally, till the jelly appears firm if a little be put on a plate; then 
pour into pots and tie down. They are better when part of them 
has just begun to redden. 

Coiiibiiiatioii Jelly. — Take raspberries, strawberries, currants, 
and cherries. All should be fully ripe ; stone the cherries. Throw 
all together in a jar, and set in a kettle of cold water; let this boil 
until the fruit is scalded. Strain through a jelly-bag, pressing as 
little as possible, and proceed as for currant jelly. Cool a little bit, 
stirring ; if it congeals readily, pour in glasses. Tie down with egg 
paper. The flavor of this jelly is much finer than that made of other 
fruit alone. 

Huckleberry Jelly. — Put the berries in an earthen jar, cover, and 
stand in a kettle of cold water. Let boil until the juice is extracted 
from the fruit. Strain, measure, turn into a porcelain kettle, and boil 
5 minutes. Add an equal measure of granulated sugar. Boil 10 
minutes. Try a spoonful on a cold plate, and if it hardens, remove 
at once. If not, let it boil longer. Turn into glasses and seal. One 
teaspoonful of .strong vinegar to each pint of the juice improves the 
flavor. 

Chei-ry Jelly. — Pit the cherries, put in a stone crock, and set in 
a kettle of boiling water to scald. Strain, and proceed as for currant 
jelly. 

Fancy Jellies, 

These jellies, of which there are many kinds, form delicious des- 
serts to follow heavy dinners and should be served with crisp wafers, 
fancy cakes, etc. In summer, especially, will their delicate flavors be 
appreciated. The foundation of all will be found in gelatine or isin- 
glass. The gelatine should always be dissolved in cold water. If 



JELLIES. 475 

gelatine is melted first in hot water — as it may be very quickly — it is 
likely to lack delicacy of flavor and to assume a muddy appearance 
that cannot be overcome. Some gelatines soften in L5 or 20 minutes 
in cold water, but there are many varieties which require 2 hours, and 
this time is given as being a safe rule for making all kinds of jellies. 
If this length of time is allowed for the softening process, the gela- 
tine need not be clarified with white of egg or otherwise ; and the 
housekeeper with forethought of the needs of her table will keep this 
portion of the work in mind and put. the gelatine in water early in 
the morning or even the night before, provided she has a cool place 
in which to keep it. The lower part of the refrigerator is as good as 
any for the purpose. 

It is well also to remember that for each quart of jelly, where 
there is neither milk nor eggs used in its composition, one-half box 
of gelatine will be required. Jellies are nicer strained. A flannel 
shaped to a point is best for this purpose. 

Oraiijje Jelly. — The juice of 4 oranges, the grated rind of 1, juice 
and rind of 1 lemon, 1 j4 cupfuls of sugar. Put one-half box of gela- 
tine into cold water, let it stand 2 hours, add a pint of boiling water 
and the other ingredients, pour into moulds and set on ice to cool. 

Lemon Jelly. — One package of Cox's gelatine soaked in enough 
cold water to cover it ; juice of 3 lemons and 2 cupfuls of white sugar. 
Pour over thi^ 1 quart of boiling water, stir until dissolved and strain 
into jelly moulds, wetting these before using. Dip a cloth in hot 
water and wrap around the mould and the jelly will turn out easily. 
(See Creams and Charlottes?) 

Fancy Jellies witli Whipped Cream. — There are several ways of 
serving these. Use 1 large mould with a tube in the centre; a new 
cake tin will answer. Turn it out when firm on a fancy plate. Whip 
to a froth one-half pint of cream, sweeten with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar. Fill the hollow left by the tube with this, heaping 
in the centre, and pile the remainder around the base. If the mould 
is solid, heap all the cream around the base. Use ornamental sauce 
dishes and serve some of the cream with each helping of jelly. Or 
mould in wine-glasses, pointed in shape. Turn out on an ornamental 
plate, arrange prettily, and heap whipped cream around and between. 
Serve a pyramid to each person in a sauce dish, with a portion of 
cream. 



476 JELLIES. 

Variously colored fruit jellies, the more colors the better, can be 
moulded in pointed wine glasses. Warm a little of each enough to 
run, fill the glasses and cool. Ariany;c on a pretty plate, and heap 
whipped cream around and between ihe moulds. 

Pineapple Jelly. — Remember this cannot stand more than 2 
hours unless it is kept icy cold, as the pineapple will digest the gela- 
tine. Pare and grate 1 large pineapple, add a half pound sugar, then 
a half box of gelatine that has been soaked half an hour. Put the 
whole over the fire and stir constantly until it is steaming hot. Now 
press through a colander. Decorate a cylinder mould with almonds, 
fasten them in place by dipping them in a little melted gelatine. Fill 
in the pineapple and pack in cracked ice with just a little salt. Stand 
2 hours and serve with whipped cream. It cannot be allowed to 
stand over night, as morning will find it dissolved to a liquid. 

Cherry Jelly (Gelatine). — Stem and stone 2 pounds of sweet 
dark-red cherries ; put them into a bowl ; pound the kernels and 
squeeze over them the juice of 4 lemons. Mash the cherries with a 
wooden spoon, add a small tumbler of red currant jelly, the kernels 
and lemon juice. Boil together 1 pound of sugar, 2 cups of water, 
and half an ounce of gelatine, previously dissolved in a little hot 
water. Put the cherries into a jelly bag, pour the sugar and gelatine 
over them, and run through several times till quite clear. Add sugar 
or lemon juice if not sweet or acid enough. Wet the mould, place 
it in ice, pour in the jelly, and do not turn it out until the last mo- 
ment. Delicious. 

Peach Jelly (Gelatine). — Dissolve in sufificient water 1 ounce of 
gelatine ; strain it ; halve 1 dozen large peaches and pare them ; make 
a syrup of 1 pound of fruit sugar and half a pint of water. Into this 
put the peaches and kernels ; boil gently 15 minutes, then place the 
fruit on a plate and cook the syrup 10 minutes longer ; add to it the 
juice of 3 lemons and the gelatine. A pyramid mould is very pretty 
for this. Fill part full of jelly, and when set, put in one-quarter of 
the peaches. Place on ice and let it harden ; add more jelly, harden, 
etc., until full. Let the base of the mould be jelly. It can be put in 
a mould and the peaches left out and served separately. 

Coflfee Jelly. — This jelly is a proper accompaniment of cake and 
is as pretty as it is palatable. Soak half a box of gelatine 2 hours. 
Then make a quart of strong, clear coffee, and pour it at once over 



JELLIES. 477 

the gelatine, sweetening to taste. Tastes differ so widely in the mat- 
ter of sugar in coffee that no rule can be given. Turn the jelly into 
a wet mould as soon as the sugar is dissolved, and just as it goes to 
the table pour around it sweetened whipped cream. A handsome 
dessert may be arranged thus : Pour the jelly half an inch deep into 
square, bright tin pans, and when cold cut it into small blocks with a 
knif^ that has been dipped in hot water. Meap the blocks on a glass 
dish or upon a folded napkin laid on a china plate, and serve with 
sweetened cream from a pitcher or boat. 

Rhubarb Jelly. — Boil rhubarb in water until well done. Pass 
through a sieve and sweeten to taste ; put on fire. Dissolve 1 heap- 
ing tablespoonful of cornstarch in half a cup of cold water, stir it into 
the boiling juice, and stir till the jelly looks clear. Pour in a mould, 
and set away to become firm. It can be served with or without 
whipped cream or sweetened cream. 

Blackberry Jelly (Grelatine). — A most delicious and sweet dish, 
and may be employed as a substitute for pudding. Of course, it 
should be made the day before it is wanted. Strain the juice from 
ripe blackberries, boil it and skim well, and dissolve in it half a pound 
of sugar for a pint. Stir in an ounce of gelatine which has been well 
soaked in a cupful of water, and melted separately. Mix thoroughly, 
and pour in an earthenware mould when the jelly begins to set, and 
not before. This blackberry jelly will be excellent, if served with 
cream. If approved, a strip of thin lemon rind can be stewed with 
the fruit. 

Strawberry Jelly (Gelatine). — One quart strawberries, 1 large 
cup sugar, juice of 1 lemon, two-thirds package gelatine soaked in 1 
cup cold water, 1 pint boiling water. Mash berries, and strain 
through coarse muslin. Mix sugar and lemon juice with soaked 
gelatine, pour over the boiling water, stir until clear; strain through 
flannel bag. Have a mould with cylinder in centre, dip in water, 
pour in jelly. Set on ice. When served, fill centre with whipped 
cream. 

Wine Jelly. — One package (2 ounces) gelatine, soaked 2 hours 
in large cup cold water ; 2 cups white wine or sherry ; 1 lemon, all 
the juice and half the grated peel ; 1 teaspoonful bitter almonds, 2 
cups white sugar, 2 cups boiling water. Put soaked gelatine, lemon, 
and sugar together, with the flavoring, and cover close half an hour. 



478 JELLIES. 

Pour on boiling water, stir, and strain. Add wine, and strain again 
through flannel bag, without squeezing, and leave in mould until 
solid. Wet mould in cold water before pouring in the jelly. Served 
with whipped cream it is very nice. Pass sliced o'r fancy cakes with it. 

Calf's Foot Jolly. — Boil very slowly 4 nicely cleaned calf's 
feet in o quarts of water, until reduced to 1 ; strain, and set away until 
cold; then take off the fat from the top, and remove the jelly into a 
stew-pan, avoiding the settlings, and adding one-half pound of white 
powdered sugar, ihc juice of 2 lemons, and the whites of 2 eggs, the 
latter to make it transparent. Let boil about 15 minutes without 
stirring. Pour into large flannel bag; repeat stirring until it runs 
clear; then have ready large china basin or smaller moulds. Set 
away to become firm. This is very nice for the sick, as is also wine 
jelly. 

Cider Jelly. — A good substitute for wine jelly will find favor with 
those who object to the use of wine in cooking. One cupful of cold 
water, one-half box of gelatine, 1 cupful of boiling water, a small stick 
of cinnamon, 1 cupful of granulated sugar, the juice and grated rind 
of 1 large lemon, 1^ cupfuls of sweet cider. Let the gelatine soak 
half an hour in the cold water. Pour the boiling water upon 'the 
cinnamon, and let it stand at the back part of the range till slightly 
flavored. When the gelatine is soft, add the sugar and boiling water. 
Stir until dissolved, then add cider and lemon, and strain. If it is 
desired to mould the jelly, allow the mixture to cool, then dip the 
mould into cold water, and pour the jelly in before it begins to stiffen. 
It ma\' be turned into a wet, flat dish, to be cut when cold into 
squares. These little squares can be arranged neatly in a pile, and 
served with cream and sugar, whipped cream heaped about them, or 
with the following sauce : 

Sauce. — Boil for 10 minutes a stick of cinnamon, 3 inches long, 
in a coffee-cupful of water ; add half a teacupful of sugar, boil 3 min- 
utes longer, stirring continuously, and remove to a cool place. Pour 
this around the cider jelly, just as it is sent to the table. Sometimes, 
while the sauce is at;, the boiling point, it is whipped into the yolk of 
an egg that has been thoroughly beaten, and when cold and ready to 
serve, the stiffly beaten white of the egg is added. Serve with cake. 
If the cider is perfectly sweet, the lemon juice is an improvement; 
but if it is fermented, no more acid is required. 




Porcelain-lined kettles are the safest to 
use for canning or preserving fruit in any fash- 
ion. New, unworn granite iron is also safe to 
Tin should never be employed, as it is very 
to turn the fruit dark colored. Old-fashioned 
people, who still cling to brass kettles, understand 
that they must be very carefully cleaned. Scour with sand 
before using, scald with salt and vinegar, rinse, and wipe 
thoroughly. After using, wash at once. It is dangerous 
to allow the fruit to stand in a brass kettle to cool. 

Keep canned fruit, preserves and jellies in a dark closet. If a 
dark closet is impossible, wrap each glass with brown paper. Canned 
fruit should be kept moderately cool and at the same temperature all 
the time. Drop a silver spoon (tablespoon) in a glass can, and hot 
fruit can be poured in without danger of breakage, because the metal 
readily absorbs a large portion of the heat of the fruit. Another 
safeguard is to wet a cloth in cold water, fold, and stand one or more 
jars upon it. 

The filling of jars may be greatly expedited by the use of a gro- 
cer's funnel, and a small milk dipper is the best thing for ladling out 
the hot fruit or syrup. A glass funnel is a decided improvement 
upon the tin affair. Its tube shows whether it is clean or not, and it 
can never corrode, as tin and copper funnels do. Put in the first 
spoonful of fruit quickly. After this, fill quickly with the fruit at 
boiling point, put on the cover immediately and turn up the spring ; 
then turn the bottle upside down, and let it stand in this position for 
some minutes. This treatment will heat the cover and thoroughly 
dispose of any microbes that may have been lurking about the dish. 
After cans have once been used, and before fruit is again put into 
them, they should be put into a kettle of water containing a handful 
of sal-soda, which must be brought to a boil. Let them cool in the 
water, and rinse thoroufihlv in clear water. This removes any germs 
pf fermentation that may have lodged in the glass, and the soda 

479 



480 



CANNED FRUITS. 



effectually sweetens them. If the can cover resists loosening when 
ready to use, wrap in a cloth wrung from hot water and folded 
around the top. If not, set the can with the top downward in an 
inch or so of boiling water. See that it does not touch the glass. 
Or run knife under rubber ring. Rings that have hardened may be 
dropped for one-half hour in a solution of one-third water and two- 
thirds ammonia, to soften. It is better, however, to use new rubbers, 
since they are safe, and a fresh can of fruit is certainly worth a new 
ring. Examine cans carefully, since it is no uncommon occurrence 
to find small bits of glass in them which do not come out with sim- 
ple washing. The danger of such bits of glass getting in food can- 
not be over-estimated. In selecting cans choose as far as possible 
those which are free from air bubbles in the glass. The more perfect 
they are, the less danger there is from broken glass. 

There are devices of various sorts for screwing on can covers 
and also for removing them, but these are entirely unnecessary. 

When fruit 
is hot the 
can cover 
and rubber 
should be 

Can Opener. very hot 

also. The cover is very easily put on with the fingers, and can be 
sealed quite tight enough for safety, provided new rubbers are used. 
After a few moments, or when the last can is finished, go over each 
one by course and see if they can be tightened. It is very rarely 
that one finds a cover that needs changing. 

If an earthenware jar or jug is used for canning, see that it is per- 
fectly glazed, otherwise it will not be air-tight and the fruit will 
not keep. Sometimes there are ridges in the glass, which prevent 
cans being hermetically sealed with rubber rings ; apply over the 
place a little putty or a cold paste of flour and water. 

Two-quart cans or jars should only be used in large families; one- 
quart and one-pint cans are better for small families, as canned fruit 
does not retain its freshness long after being opened. Opening canned 
fruit an hour or two before using, that it may regain the excluded 
oxygen, improves the flavor. A surplus of fruit, left from canning, 
may be sealed hot in small bottles to use for pudding sauces, etc. 




CANNED FRUITS. 



481 



The secret of canning fruit is to sterilize it completely, or to kill 
the germs of decay thoroughly, otherwise there will be a failure. The 
fruit may be canned with or without sugar, as the sugar is no neces- 
sary part of its preservation. Vegetables in which there is sugar 
require much longer to cook than others ; for example — corn, beets 
and young peas. Tomatoes need but 20 minutes, corn a full hour. 
Fill the jars to overflowing ; that the heat of the syrup may sterilize 
the cover. 

Table for Canning. 



Fruits. 



Apples, sour, quartered 

Blackberries 

Cherries 

Currants, ripe . . . . 

Cranberries 

Crabapples 

Grapes, ripe 

Grapes, wild 

Plums 

Peaches, halved , . . 



<2 


■of 

3 a 

O-W) 




c« 


Mins. 


Ozs. 


10 


5 


6 


6 


5 


6 


8 


8 


15 


12 


25 


8 


10 


5 


10 


8 


10 


8 


10 


4 



Fruits. 



Peaches, whole . . • . 
Pears, small, sour, whole 
Pears, Bartlett, halved . 
Pineapples, sliced . . . 
Pie Plant, or Rhubarb . 
Quinces, sliced .... 

Raspberries 

Strawberries 

Tomatoes, sliced . . . 
Whortleberries .... 



.6? 



Mins. 

15 

30 

20 

15 

10 

15 

6 

8 

20 

5 






Ozs. 

6 
10 

6 

6 
10 
10 

4 



Methods of Sealing-. — 'Fill the bottles or cans full of fruit pre- 
pared as for canning. Have ready 3 or 4 sheets of paper. Cut to fit the 
jars and large enough to turn over the rim. Dip each one in a saucer 
containing the white of an egg. Press on quickly and tie down; add 
2 or 3 more pieces after a time ; wet in the same way on the under 
side ; tie these down. Let dry and you will have an air-tight cover- 
ing for the fruit, preferred by many to the self-sealing tops. Be par- 
ticular that the jars finished in this manner are kept in a dry place, 
that the paper may not mould. If sealing-wax is to be used, the fol- 
lowing is a good formula : Sealing Wax. — One pound resin ; 1 ounce 
each of lard, tallow and beeswax. Melt these ingredients together. 
Put the cork in very tight and cover over with the mixture. If neces- 
sary, dip a cloth in the mixture and tie firmly over the cork. 
31 



482 CANNED FRUITS. 

A New Way of CauDing-. — Scientific experiments have been 
made in keeping fruit in jars covered only with cotton batting, and 
at the end of two years the fruit was perfectly sound. The process 
is as follows : Use crocks, stone-bottom jars, or any other convenient 
dishes. Prepare and cook the fruit precisely as for canning in glass 
jars; fill dishes with the fruit while it is yet hot, and immediately 
cover with cotton batting, securely tied on. Putrefaction is caused 
by the invisible creatures in the air. Cooking the fruit expels all 
these, and as they cannot pass through cotton batting, the fruit thus 
protected will keep an indefinite period. Tyndall has proved that 
atmospheric germs cannot pass through a layer of cotton. 

In flavoring canned fruit do not use spices, but keep to lemon or 
orange, or other fruit flavors. Canning can be done in small quan- 
tities even better, and with much less weariness. When fruit and 
vegetables are ordered for the table there is usually some left, and a 
can or two can be put up with very little inconvenience. In opening 
a tin can of fruit pour out the contents immediately. Leave exposed 
to the air in an open dish for some little time before using, and if any 
remains over put away in an earthen dish. To test fruit or vegetables 
put up in tin cans (such as are bought at the store) apply the thumbs 
to both ends of the can. If it resists pressure, the contents are well 
preserved. Reject every article that does not show the line of resin 
round the edge of the solder of the cap, the same as is seen on the 
seam on the side of the can. Reject every can that does not have 
the name of the manufacturer or firm upon it, as well as the name of 
the company or town where manufactured. When the cans are full 
of the boiling fruit, run a spoon down to get out the air-bubbles. Let 
the froth run off the top of jar and seal. 

Steam Canning-. — The simplest canning apparatus is undoubtedly 
the best. In these days of many patents, when the market is filled 
with various elaborate devices for canning purposes, it is pleasant 
to know that the very best results may be obtained with a simple 
wooden rack fitted into a flat-bottomed clothes boiler. A good 
boiler of this kind, of heavy tin, large enough to hold 1^ dozen 
cans, may now be purchased at small cost. Any amateur carpenter 
may easily make the rack out of pine .strips a half inch thick and 
1 Yi inches wide. Or, simpler still, each jar can be set on a small 
block of wood. 



CANNED FRUITS. 483 

The jars are filled with fi-uit and covered with the syrup made 
from the juice, in the case of soft fruit, like berries; and of water, in 
the proportion of 5 pints of water to 7 pounds of sugar, in the case of 
harder fruits, like peaches, pears and plums. The covers are screwed 
down without a rubber, and the jars set on this rack and separated 
by kitchen towels. They are immersed up to their necks in warm 
water, which is allowed to come to the boiling point. In the case of 
delicate fruits, like strawberries, the water is allowed to boil but 2 
minutes around the jars. In the case of pineapples, it boils 5 
minutes; in case of peaches, pears and plums, and most other fruits, 
20 minutes. As soon as the time of boiling is over, the fruit is 
removed at once, jar by jar, the cover is taken off, the jar is filled to 
the brim with fresh, boiling syrup, to take the place of that which has 
been absorbed. Or, take one of the cans and use to fill the cans per- 
fectly full. The rubber is put on and the cover is screwed up as 
tight as possible. When the jars are cold the covers are tightened 
again, and each jar is wrapped in paper, to exclude its contents from 
the light, and is set away in a preserve closet. The closet should be 
in a place where the uniform temperature is as near to 50 degrees 
as possible. A dry cellar is usually the best place. 

Steam Caiiniug-. — II. Fill the jars with raw fruit, and put in the 
boiler as above. Let cook until half done, then open and fill up the 
cans with a good syrup, made of sugar and water. Have this boiling 
hot. By having the syrup very rich, a delicious preserve can be 
made, with the added advantage of the fruit cooking fresh and 
whole. Try the cans after they are cold. More than once will do 
no harm. 

Canned Strawberries — The first berries picked from the vines 
are the firmest and the finest flavored, and so are better for canning 
than those gathered later. Allow 2 baskets to a quart-jar. Put half 
a pound of granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons of water on to boil, 
and boil until it begins to crystallize. Then drop in the fruit carefully 
and just let it boil up about 2 minutes. Then carefully skim out the 
fruit into the jars, and fill to overflowing with the boiling syrup. Seal. 
Use an asbestos mat to stand the boiling syrup on to prevent scorching. 

Canned Strawberries. — II. First wash your berries, then take 
two-thirds berries and one third sugar; put a layer of berries, then a 
layer of sugar into an earthen dish until you have used them all ; let 



484 CANNED FRUITS." 

them stand over night. In the morning turn off the juice, put it over 
the fire, let it come to a boil and skim ; add the berries, let them boil 
just enough to scald them, then can. Strawberries canned in this 
way are very nice and retain their color and size. To help strawber- 
ries to retain their natural color, keep the jars in total darkness. 

Cold Water Cauniiig-. — Cranberries, blueberries, gooseberries, pie 
plant and currants can be prepared in this manner: Fill self-sealing 
cans full of fruit. Boil water to remove gases and impurities. Cool 
thoroughly. Fill the cans full and seal tight. Pie plant should be 
cut in inch-long pieces. Pineapple can be canned in its own juice. 
Cut it up in small, dice-shaped pieces. Add 1^ pounds of sugar to 
1 pound of the fruit. Seal it up cold. Keep where there is no dan- 
ger of freezing. Put the fruit and sugar in layers in the can. 

Canned Pineapple (Whole). — Pare and remove the cores from 
the pineapples. Take out cores and place each pineapple in a large- 
mouthed jar. Cover with boiling water ; place the jars in a steam 
cooker or a patent canner, and steam continuousl)^ for three-quarters 
of an hour. Seal ; when cool, examine tops to see that they are as 
tight as can be made. Put the covers on tight, without the rubber. 
The amount of cooking must be regulated by the judgment, as some 
kinds of fruit require more than others. If patent canners or steam 
cookers arc not convenient, take an ordinary wash-boiler and put a 
board in the bottom with auger holes in it for the water to boil 
through. Cold water can be used to fill the cans instead of hot. 
Fruit prepared in this fashion can be served sliced with sugar same as 
fresh fruit. 

Mulberries, To Can. — Our native mulberry is a highly aromatic- 
flavored fruit, with a pleasant sub-acid juice. It is said to be very 
cooling and wholesome in its effects. The fruit when ripe is black, 
and should be gathered at once. It may be used in all recipes where 
blackberries are used, and also makes excellent jelly and preserves 
for winter use. 

Canned Elderl>ei-ries. — To a gallon of black elderberries that 
have been stemmed and washed, add 1 quart of vinegar. If the vin- 
egar is very strong, use a little less. When they have boiled a min- 
ute or two, pour into glass jars and seal. When wanted for pies add 
sugar to taste and thicken with a little flour, using 1 pint of berries. 
Elderberries prep.ircd in this way make excellent pies. 



CANNED FRUITS. 485 

Canned Blackberries. — To can blackberries allow a cup of sugar 
to 2 cups of water for every can of fruit. Let this syrup boil up 
over the fire for 10 minutes. Fill cans with the fruit. Cover them 
with the syrup, which need not be cooled for this purpose, but may 
be used moderately warm, as the blackberry is not a very delicate 
fruit like the strawberry and the raspberry. Put on the covers of the 
jars without the rubbers ; or, in case the new patent jars are used, 
leave the vent open. Proceed according to directions for steam can- 
ning. 

Cranberries, To Can. — Proceed by the cold-water method, or 
steam canning. 

Green Currants, Canned. — A relish for meats. Pick and stem 
green currants, and stew until tender in boiling water. Pour off the 
water, and for every pint of currants add 1 cupful of brown sugar. 
Rub the stewed currants through a sieve to remove the seeds and 
skins. Bottle when hot. Also proceed by the cold-water method, 
or steam canning. 

Canned Plums. — Proceed by the method of steam canning. Or, 
allow a half pound of sugar to each pound of the fruit. If the green- 
gage variety are used, prick the skins of each several times before 
cooking. Make a syrup, bring to the boiling point slowly, skim and 
add the plums. When cooked till tender they are ready for the cans. 

Canned Pears. — To every 3 pounds of fruit allow 1}4 pounds of 
sugar and half a pint of water. Peel the pears ; halve, if wished, 
and lay them in cold water to keep them from turning dark before 
they are wanted. When the .syrup is boiling, put the pears in and cook 
till they look clear or a fork can be stuck into them easily. Carefully 
fill the jars with the fruit. Pour the hot syrup over them, filling the 
jars to the top. Cover and seal. Some cooks steam the pears before 
putting in the syrup. Pile the peeled fruit on a plate and steam in a 
steamer until a straw will penetrate the fruit, then proceed as above. 

Quinces, Canned. — Peel, core, and wash. Allow half a pound 
of granulated sugar and half a pint of water, to 1 pound of quinces. 
Boil together slowly, until the quinces are tender. Have the jars 
thoroughly heated ; fill nearly to the top with the quinces, and over- 
flow with the juice. Seal quickly. 

Peaches, Canned. — Pare the fruit, cut in half, remove the pits, 
and with these raw halves pack the jars closely. Make a heavy 



486 CANNED FRUITS. 

syrup of 2 pounds of sugar to a pint of water, and when it is well 
done pour it over the fruit, and seal at once. The peaches will pare 
more easily if dropped in boiling water. Have a large kettle of boil- 
ing water on the fire. Fill a wire basket with peaches, and lower it 
into the boiling water for about 2 minutes. Turn the peaches out on a 
dish and pare them. To do this, however, the peaches must be very 
firm. A few of the peach pits, blanched, and dropped in each can 
will improve the flavor for most people. It is not necessary to make 
such a rich syrup when the fruit is canned. Pound for pound, or 
even half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and half a pint of 
water to every 3 pounds of fruit. Keep the peaches in cold water, 
after paring, until all are used. This prevents discoloring. Put the 
fruit in the syrup in small quantities. Cook about 5 minutes, remove, 
and pack in the jars, and fill up with the hot syrup, meanwhile put- 
ting more fruit in the .syrup to cook. The same syrup can be used 
for several jars of fruit. This same process can be followed with man}- 
other fruits, such as pears, etc. Both peaches and pears look better 
if the syrup be strained. Have a fine strainer in the funnel through 
which the syrup is poured into the jar. 

Canned Cherries. — Add to them one-third their weight in sugar; 
after it has dissolved boil slowly for 15 minutes, put in l:)ottles or cans, 
and seal hot. By some, the taste given by leaving in the pits is thought 
an improvement. If this flavor is desired, the pits should be tied in 
a thin piece of muslin or netting and boiled with the cherries, but 
cherries should never be canned without removing the stones. 

Cherries in Molasses. — Stem ripe cherries and put in wide- 
mouthed bottles, filling nearly full. Then pour in New Orleans 
molasses to cover completely. Drive in a tightly-fitting cork, and 
cover with 2 or 3 thicknesses of egg paper. (See directions.) Shake 
occasionally, in order to mix the contents. The fruit will absorb 
enough of the molasses to render it sweet enough to make into pud- 
dings or pies, without farther sweetening. 

Canned Apples. — Make a nice sauce from tart apples, cook quite 
smooth. Bell Flowers are the best. This is a nice way to keep them 
when they begin to spoil. 

Apples and Raisins (to Can). — Make the sauce as above. To 
each can of this sauce add 1 or 1 ^ cupfuls nice raisins. Put in when 
the fruit first begins to cook. This adds both to flavor and appearance. 



CANNED FRUITS. 487 

Hliubarb, or Pie Plant (to Can). — Can by the cold water pro- 
ces. (See directions.) Drop a silver spoon down in the can and see 
that all of the air bubbles escape. Pint jars are convenient, since that 
size makes one good pie. 

Canned Green Peas. — Shell and can by the rule for steam can- 
ning. Fill the cans as for fruit, omitting sugar. Boil the same way 
until they are sufficiently cooked ; fill each can up with hot water. 
Screw down tight and set away. Some housekeepers prefer to cook 
the vegetables 10 or 15 minutes, then fill the cans and finish cooking. 
Instead of filling up with water, take 1 or more of the cans and fill 
up the others. Do not put the rubber rings on the cans until after 
the second canning. In this way the cans are almost solid fruit, and 
economy of space is secured. In preparing for the table, dilute with 
hot water as much as desired, or milk, and season to taste. Let them 
boil about 20 minutes. 

Green Beans (to Can). — These are excellent canned as above. 
String and cut in pieces as for the table. Or simply boil the pre- 
pared beans rapidly 10 or 15 minutes, and can at once. Run a silver 
spoon around the inside of the jar to break the air bubbles. In the 
morning tighten the covers and put in a cool, dark place. 

Canned Pumpkin. — Steam the pumpkin, first slicing and remov- 
ing seeds ; leave in the shell. When done, scrape from the shell. 
Mash, fill into cans, hot, being careful that no air-bubbles remain in 
filling the can. Seal up. It can be prepared for pies the same as 
fresh pumpkin, from which it cannot be told. Instead of steaming, 
it may be baked and scraped from the shell. 

Tomatoes (to Can). — Tomatoes, if cut in half and canned in water 
only, can be used either in salads, fried or broiled, and no one would 
ever know but that they were fresh from the vines. See rule for cold- 
water canning. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Pare and slice and fill into bottles, and pro- 
ceed as for steam canning. Another way is to put the whole, un- 
peeled fruit in jars, first carefully wiping, and choosing round, medium- 
sized and perfect tomatoes. Then proceed as for steam canning, 
filling up the jars with hot water. They will be all ready for salads 
or frying. Yellow tomatoes are very nice canned in the cold-water 
fashion, and would make a very pretty salad for a Yellow Tea or 
Luncheon. 



48S CANNED FRUITS. 

Tomatoes Canned Whole. — Place a preserving kettle oil stove 
half full of water. When it comes to a boil, put in whole tomatoes, 
previously skinned. Heat thoroughly all through. Lift carefully 
into hot glass jars and fill jars to overflowing with the hot water in 
which they are cooked. Screw covers on air-tight. Place in paper 
bags, each jar by itself. Keep in cool place. Be sure there are no 
air bubbles. Scald the tomatoes that they may peel more easily. 

Canned Corn. — Pick the corn as soon as it is right for table use ; 
do not allow any delay in the matter. Husk and remove ever}^ par- 
ticle of the silk. Then cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife, 
taking care not to cut too near the cob ; scrape out the milk ; pack 
the corn in glass cans, pressing it in as firmly as possible with a 
wooden pestle; do this very thoroughly ; fill the cans full to the 
brim, and screw on the covers as tight as you can. Put a thin layer 
of hay or straw into a large kettle or boiler, lay the cans on it in any 
position; over these put a layer of the straw, fill the vessel in this 
order, cover with cold water, put on the range and boil for three 
hours. Let the cans remain in the water until cold ; then remove 
them, tighten the covers, and set in a cool, dry place. Two or 
three thicknesses of cloth may be put under and between the cans 
if preferred, but they must not be allowed to touch each other while 
boiling, for fear of breaking them. Or, use the way described in 
Steam Cookery. Keep in a dark place. 

Canned Asparagus. — Select firm, even-sized stalks of asparagus, 
and, if necessary, wash it. When drained, put it carefully into jars, 
heads up, packing as closely as possible. Fill the jars with boiling, 
slightly salted water, steam for half an hour and seal at once. 

Canned Milk. — Milk canned this way can be kept for six months, 
and when opened it is fresh and nice. Take the milk as soon as the 
animal heat is out, put in a kettle or pail, and set into a boiler of hot 
water and bring it to a boiling heat. Then pour into common fruit 
jars, and seal the same as canned fruit. Place the jars in the cellar 
or a cool place, and keep until used. 

Canned Beef Tong-ue.— Boil, skin, and slice a beef's tongue, 
corned or fresh ; return to the kettle, and when boiling hot pack in a 
Mason's can, pressing down hard ; cover an inch deep with the 1 oil- 
ing liquor and .seal. If fresh, season the slices, as they are packed, 
with salt and pepper. Keep in a cool, dark cellar. 



CANNED FRUITS. m 

Honeys, Syrups, Butters. 

Quince Syrup for Hot Cakes. — Grate 3 large quinces, add 3 
pounds of granulated sugar and a quart of water. Let it simmer 
slowly for 2 or 3 hours afcer having brought it to the boiling point. 

Clierry Syrup. — Stone the cherries, mash them and press out the 
juice in a crock or bowl; let it stand in a cool place for 2 days. Fil- 
ter, add 2 pounds of sugar to 1 pint of juice, stir well over the fire 
until it boils, and bottle. Excellent with hot cakes. 

Maple Syrup. — One-half pound maple sugar, 1 pound white sugar, 
3 pints water. Break maple sugar small, place on fire with sugar and 
water; boil 5 minutes; skim, then cool. 

Substitute for Maple Syrup. — One pound of brown sugar, just 
enough water to keep it from sticking, boil 1 minute, take from fire, 
add 3 drops of the extract of vanilla. 

Strawberry Syrup. — Take fresh strawberries and inclose in a 
coarse bag. Press out the juice and to each quart add 1 pint of 
water and 6 pounds white sugar. Dissolve by raising to the boiling 
point and strain. Bottle and cork while hot, then keep in a cool 
place. 

Apricot Syrup. — Take off the skins from some ripe apricots, stone 
and cut in small pieces, place in a dish, and strew over them a thin 
layer of sifted sugar ; let them remain a couple of hours ; place in a 
saucepan with a little water, and let sinmier gently until they are soft ; 
strain the juice, and add to it sugar in the proportion of one-quarter 
pjund to a pint ; boil it gently, skimming thoroughly all the time ; 
let it get cold, then bottle it. It will be found useful to flavor cus- 
tards, cream, ices, etc. The fruit in the jelly bag must not be 
squeezed. After the juice has run from it, it will make very nice 
tartlets with the addition of a little sugar. Time to boil with the 
sugar, 10 or 12 minutes. 

Simple Syrup for Hot Cakes. — One-half pint of water to each 
pound of sugar. When it is thoroughly dissolved set over a gentle 
fire and let boil half an hour. When clear and boiling hot, spread a 
wet napkin over a bowl and strain the syrup through. Some like to 
flavor this with rose, cinnamon, nutmeg or even lemon. 

Hygienic Cream Sauce for Hot Cakes. - One-half pint milk, one- 
half pint cream, yolk of 1 egg, tablespoonful buckwheat dissolved in 



490 CANNED FRUITS. 

a little milk, large pinch salt. Bring milk and cream to boil, in thick, 
well-lined saucepan ; add to it buckwheat dissolved in milk, stirring 
rapidly to prevent lumping, allow it to boil 5 minutes ; remove from 
fire, beat in the yolk of egg diluted with a tablespoonful of milk. 
This is better and far more healthful (especially for children) than so 
much butter and .syrup. 

Lemon Syrup. — Put 3 pounds of white sugar in a preserving 
kettle. Cover with 1 quart of water. Boil until it is a clear syrup 
stirring frequently. When cool add 1 ounce of citric acid, and 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of oil of lemon. Bottle immediately. 

Orang-e Syrup. — Squeeze out the juice of fresh oranges; to 1 
pint of the juice put 1}4 pounds of sugar. Set over a moderate fire. 
When the sugar has dissolved, drop in the peel of the oranges, and 
let boil slowly 10 minutes. Strain through a flannel bag. Do not 
squeeze the bag or the jelly will not be clear. Bottle, cork and seal. 
Very nice to flavor puddings, etc. 

Leniou Syrup can be made in the same way, using 1^ pounds of 
sugar to 1 pint of lemon juice. Wring the flannel bag out of hot 
water before straining. 

Lemon Honey. — Lemon honey is a queer, old-fashioned dessert 
which is easily made and delicious for a summer relish. Stir the 
yolks of 6 and the whites of 4 eggs into a pound of granulated 
sugar. Add the juice of 3 lemons and the grated rind of 2, and a 
scant 2 ounces of butter. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly, 
and when the mass is thick and clear like honey, pour it into custard 
cups and set in the ice-box. If you wish to make this dessert a trifle 
more elaborate, add a meringue to each cup before setting away to 
cool. 

Nevada Mountain Honey. — One and one-half pints of water, one- 
half ounce alum. Put in a kettle and boil Add to this 4 pounds 
white sugar. Boil 3 mmutes after it has dissolved. Skim, Strain 
while hot. Take 3 drops of oil of rose to one-half pint of alcohol, 
and put 1 large teaspoonful of this to the above mixture. An excel- 
lent imitation of honey, and a fine article for sale. 

Artificial Honey. — Ten pounds brown sugar, 1 quart of water, 2 
pounds old bee honey, 1 teaspoonful cream tartar, 2 teaspoonfuls gum 
Arabic. Mix and boil 3 minutes. Add to this 1 quart of water 
beaten up with 1 egg, and continue boiling 5 or 6 minutes, removing 



CANNED FRUITS. 49l 

any scum that may rise. Take from the fire, and when nearly cold, 
add 2 pounds more of bee honey, 1 teaspoonful essence peppermint, 
2 teaspoonfuls extract rose. One-half the recipe is a good quantity. 

Quince Honey. — Quince honey is delicious when spread upon 
pancakes or fritters. Here is a recipe for making it : Make a syrup 
of 3 pounds of sugar and a pint of water, into which stir 2 large 
peeled and grated quinces. Boil for 15 minutes and can for winter 
use or put in jelly glasses. 

Tomato Honey. — To every pound of ripe tomatoes allow 6 fresh 
peach leaves — if you can get them — and the grated rind of 1 lemon. 
Cut the tomatoes into small pieces, add leaves and rind, and stew 
slowly until well done. Press through a fine sieve and add for every 
pint of juice 1 pound of sugar and the juice of 1 lemon. Return to 
the fire and cook till thick like honey. If cooked quickly without a 
cover it will be a much lighter color. It can be kept in cans or 
bottled and sealed, and will be much relished by the little folks. 

Orang-e Butter. — Take the juice of 6 oranges and yolks of 8 
hard-boiled eggs. Rub together in a mortar with 5 tablespoonfuls of 
pulverized loaf sugar and 1 tablespoonful of orange-water. When 
reduced to a paste stir over a slow fire for 20 minutes until thickened. 
Dip a mould in cold water and pour in the mixture. When cold 
turn out and serve with fancy cakes. 

Lemon Butter. — Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, three-fourths 
cup of sugar and a scant teaspoon of butter. Put the lemon juice, 
grated rind and sugar into a bowl and place in dish of boiling water. 
When the sugar is melted and the syrup hot add a well-beaten egg, 
stirring constantly for 10 minutes or till the mixture thickens. Then 
stir in the butter, put the bowl into a dish of cold water, stirring 
occasionally until it cools. This is very rich and may be kept for 
weeks in a covered dish. Use as a sauce, or for tarts or layer cakes. 




ndW 



Pickles are simple and inexpensive to pre- 
pare, and various kinds should be found in the 
storeroom. Tiiey add variety to the bill of fare, 
and are a stimulant to the appetite. All vegetables, 
many fruii-s and parts of some flowers — notably the 
seed vessel of the nasturtium — may be used. The 
first requisite to success in pickle-making is good vine- 
gar, strong and pungent. Prepare the vegetables by 
washing thoroughly in cold water. Gherkins or small cucumbers, 
beans and small peppers, as well as nasturtium seeds, need only to 
be washed and drained thoroughly to be ready for pickling. Onions 
must be peeled, cabbages sliced and cauliflowers picked apart before 
they can be u^ed. Peaches, pears, grapes and watermelon rind make 
the mobt popular of the fruit pickles. Peaches are nicest when 
peeled, though many people simply rub the roughness ofl" with a 
rough towel. Pears do not require peeling. The melon rind must 
be peeled and cut in thick slices. Do not use a copper kettle in any 
part of the process of pickle-making, but use instead a porcelain-lined 
prcsriving kettle. Vinegar boiled in copper forms acetate of copper, 
which i i green and a poison. Many very serious accidents have hap- 
pened through the use of copper vessels. 

Cider vinegar should be used when possible. Other vinegar fre- 
quently softens or eats the pickles. If the vinegar is too strong, 
dilute it with water. If the pickles are to be put in jars, be sure that 
they have never been used to hold any kind of grease. 

Pickles that are canned and sealed hot are certain to keep, and all 
trouble of watching, and, perhaps, scalding, is avoided. Be sure 
that pickles are kept where they will not freeze. Brine for putting 
down pickles should be made in the proportion of 1 pint of coarse 
salt to 1 gallon of water. Mustard seed, used in seasoning pickles, 
helps to prevent mould from forming. A cluster or two of green 
grapes added to pickles helps to preserve the strength of the vinegar. 
492 



PICKLES. 493 

Watch pickles, and stir occasionally, and take out any soft ones 
that may be found among them. It is best in this case to pour off 
the vinegar, scald, and turn back hot. If it is found to be very weak, 
new vinegar should be heated and turned on instead. If a scum or 
froth forms on the pickles, draw the vinegar and wash the pickles thor- 
oughly in plenty of clear water; then boil the vinegar, skimming off all 
froth that appears, and continuing the boiling as long as any froth 
rises. Turn the vinegar while still hot over the pickles, and set them 
away. Put pickles away, when finished, in a stone jar, tying a clean 
white cloth over the mouth of the jar before adjusting the cover. Al- 
ways lay a plate upon the pickles to hold them well under the vinegar. 
Horseradish put in pickles when they are first put up will keep the 
vinegar from losing its strength, and the pickles will not be liable to 
become soft or mouldy. This is especially good for tomato pickles. 
A little bag of mustard laid on the top of pickle jars will prevent 
vinegar from becoming mouldy if the pickles are put up in vinegar 
that has not been boiled. Or, cover the jars or bottles with cloth, 
spread with mixed mustard ; it keeps them in fine condition. To keep 
pickled onions and cabbage from turning yellow, use white wine vine- 
gar for pickling. 

To Keep Pickles Green. — It is desirable to retain the green 
color of gherkins, beans, green tomatoes, etc. To accomplish this, 
some days before pickling add grapevine leaves to the vinegar to be 
used, and let it steep until ready to use, when the vinegar ought to 
have a decided green color, which color will of necessity be imparted 
to the vegetables. This is perfectly harmless. 

To Keep Pickles Firiti. — One-half bushel of grape-leaves added 
to 1 barrel of pickles in brine will keep them sound and firm. The 
reason that pickles soften is that the vinegar is either too strong or 
too weak; if the latter is the case, a white scum will rise to the top 
of the jar. Stronger vinegar must then be procured and turned over 
the pickles, which must first be drained and thorouglily washed to 
remove all the white particles. 

Cucumber Pickles. — Use very small cucumbers, none more than 
2)4 inches long. To each 100 cucumbers allowan ounce of mustard 
seed, an ounce of cloves, a large tablespoonful of salt, a cupful of 
sugar, and 2 small red peppers. Put the spices in thin muslin bags, 
using at least 2 bags to each 100 pickles. Put the cucumbers in a 



494 PICKLES. 

kettle on the stove with enough good vinegar to cover them ; also 
place the bags of spices in the vinegar, together with the peppers cut 
in slices. Heat the vinegar as slowly as possible ; when it is scald- 
ing hot the pickles are ready to set away. 

The method is especially to be commended, when only a few cu- 
cumbers are to be pickled. The vinegar should be sharp and of good 
quality. Examine the pickles every week or 10 days for sometime 
after they are put up, to be sure that all remain firm and sound. If 
any soft pickles are found, throw them away, and drain the vinegar 
from the remainder; add a little water and half a cupful of sugar to 
every 200 pickles ; scald the vinegar, and return it to the pickles 
while hot. 

Cucumber Pickles. — II. Select sound cucumbers from 2 to 3 
inches in length ; wash well and pack in a large stone jar, sprinkling 
salt between the layers in proportion of a pint to 200 pickles. Fill 
to the brim with boiling water. Let it stand till cold, or over night ; 
drain and wipe dry ; pack again in the jar, with a liberal sprinkling 
between the layers of bruised, not powdered, cloves, cinnamon, and 
allspice, and small pieces of horseradish root, which is indispensable. 
Then fill up until covered with boiling cider vinegar. After 2 days, 
drain off and scald the vinegar, skim if need be, and pour it back hot, 
and in 3 or 4 days repeat the process. In a week they will be good 
to use, and if the cellar is reasonably cool and dry, they will keep 
without any further attention, remaining solid and crisp until pickle 
time comes again, provided enough are made to last. A few green 
peppers in the vinegar give an added flavor, and are a great improve- 
ment. 

Alcohol Pickles. — An old-fashioned pickle. One pint of alcohol, 
5 pints of rain water. In pickling be sure to leave the stems on the 
cucumbers. Wash carefully in clear water. Pour on the water and 
alcohol, weigh down the cucumbers, set in a warm place. 

Sweet Cucumber Pickles. — Put the pickles down in salt, as for 
" Cucumber Pickles, II." Small, even-sized cucumbers or gherkins 
are nicest for use. Wipe the pickles well after they are taken out of 
the brine, and soak them for a few days in vinegar to extract the salt. 
Put them in a jar, with a layer of seasoning between each cucumber. 
For a four-gallon jar of pickles this seasoning will take 7 pounds of 
suc'-ar, 2 ounces of allspice, half ounce of cloves, 1 ounce of mace, the 



PICKLES. 495 

same each of pepper and celery seed, half ounce of ginger, half ounce 
of cinnamon, and 1 pint of small white onions, chopped. Cover all 
with strong vinegar, tie up the top of the jar securely, and place on 
the stove in a large pot of cold water, and let it boil until you can run 
a straw through the pickles easily. The pickles are delicious when 
finished. 

Mixed Cucumber Pickles. — Wash and drain. Pack alternate 
layers of small-sized cucumbers in a jar with alternate layers of green 
tomatoes and common-sized green peppers. Cover with a boiling 
hot brine (proportions, 1 pint of coarse salt to 1 gallon of water). 
Let stand 24 hours. Drain, rinse in cold water, and pour over them 
boiling spiced vinegar. Add a few roots of sliced horseradish. The 
mustard pickle can also be used. 

Mustard Pickle. — To be used with any pickle. One ounce each 
of cloves, allspice, and black pepper; 1 pound ground mustard, three- 
quarters pound sugar, 1 gallon vinegar. Tie the spice in a thin cloth, 
and boil in the vinegar, reserving 1 quart of it to mix with the mus- 
tard. Take out the spice bags, and stir in the mustard, first blending 
it smoothly with the cold vinegar. Pour this preparation liot over 
the pickles. Bottle, and cork tightly. 

Quick Cucumber Pickles. — Cut medium-sized cucumbers in 
strips. Salt well. Leave over night; then rinse in cold water. Pour 
boiling vinegar over them to cover. Set away to cool. 

Brine for Cucumbers. — To 3 gallons of rain-water put 2 of vine- 
gar, one-half pound of alum, which has been dissolved in hot water, 
and 3 quarts of salt. Pour the above mixture in a large earthen jar, 
and as the small cucumbers are gathered and washed throw them in; 
they may remain until the end of the season, when all can be pickled 
at one time, and are sure to come out of the brine fresh and crisp. 
The same brine can be used for keeping green tomatoes through the 
winter. 

Spiced Cucumbers. — Two dozen large cucumbers sliced and 
boiled in vinegar enough to cover them 1 hour; set them aside in 
the hot vinegar. To each gallon of cold vinegar, allow 1 pound 
sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 tablespoon 
black pepper, 1 tablespoon celery seed, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 teaspoon 
allspice, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon scraped horseradish, 1 table- 
spoon sliced garlic, one-half teaspoon cayenne pepper. Put in the 



49(J PICKLES. 

cucunibers and stew 2 hours. The pickle is ready for use as soon as 
cold. 

Clreeii Tomato Pickles. — To make green tomato pickles slice a 
peck of green tomatoes and a dozen large onions and pack them in a 
jar in alternate layers, with salt between. Let them stand 24 hours. 
Then take out and drain off the brine. Pack in jars and cover with 
spiced vinegar. Pour it on boiling hot. In slicing the tomatoes 
reject the small slice at stem and blossom ends. Some cooks use the 
mustard pickle given before. Five or six red-pepper pods are a nice 
addition. 

Spicetl Viuegrar. — One ounce of mace, 1 ounce of celery seed, 1 
ounce of white ginger root, 1 tablespoonful of powdered cinnamon, 
1 large cupful brown sugar, one-quarter pound of mustard seed, 2 
tablespoonfuls whole black pepper, 3 pints of vinegar. Divide the 
spices in three portions, and put each in a small muslin bag. Boil 
the .spices in the vinegar one-half hour. Then stir in the sugar until 
thoroughly melted. If the pickles are put in small jars, put one of 
the bags in each jar. If in a large one, place a third of the sliced 
tomatoes, or other pickle, in the bottom of a jar, put in one of the .spice- 
bags, and pour a third of the boiled vinegar over. Then another 
third of tomato, bag and vinegar, till all are arranged. Then fill the jar 
with cold vinegar till the pickle is covered, using more than the three 
pints, if necessary. Cover securely and set away for at least a month 
before using. One teacupful of grated horseradish is very nice added 
to this vinegar. 

Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Take plum tomatoes, mixed red and yel- 
low. Do not prick them. Let them lie in strongbrine three or four days ; 
put them down in laj^ers in jars, mixing with them small onions and 
pieces of horseradish ; pour on them cold, spiced vinegar; let there 
be a small spice-bag to put into every jar; cover them carefully, and 
let them set a whole month before using ; or, pack in cans and seal hot. 
Omit the onions. If large tomatoes are used, slice in inch-thick 
slices, before soaking in brine, 4 large onions to 1 peck of tomatoes. 

Chopped Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Peel and chop fine 6 quarts of 
ripe tomatoes, measured after they are chopped, add one-half pint of 
grated horseradish, 1 quart of celery finely chopped, 1 cup of chopped 
onion, 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped red peppers, 1 cup of white 
mustard seed, a cup and a half of brown sugar, a generous cup of salt 



PICKLES. 497 

2 tablespoons of ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon each of cloves and 
mace, 2 quarts of vinegar; mix together and put in ajar. Keep in a 
cool place. 

Cauliflower Pickles. — Break 2 cauliflowers into small bunches. 
Put them into cold water with 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the water 
heat gradually. Boil the cauliflowers 10 minutes, then drain them on 
cloths or a hair sieve until perfectly dry, and then place them in glass 
jars. Pour over them boiling hot spiced vinegar. This is a good 
formula : One ounce of mustard seed, 2 ounces of celery seed, one- 
fourth of an ounce of mace, one-fourth of an ounce of nutmeg, one- 
fourth of an ounce of coriander seed, 2 quarts of vinegar. Boil the 
spice in the vinegar, tying it up in small bags. Some cooks do not 
boil the cauliflower, but pour the boiling vinegar over it. After a 
week's time, pour off", scald and pour back. Repeat this several times. 
Cauliflower is a little difficult to keep unless it is canned. If plain 
vinegar is used, boil some whole peppers in it. Small or slightly im- 
perfect heads of cauliflower can be used for pickling. 

Cabbag-e Pickle. — Slice firm, white heads of cabbage ; pack in 
layers in a jar, sprinkling salt between each layer. Let stand over 
night. In the morning drain and pack in a jar, sprinkling grated 
horseradish between each layer and celery seed. Cover with scald- 
ing hot spiced vinegar. After six days pour off" the vinegar, scald 
and pour back. If necessary, weight the cabbage to keep under the 
vinegar. 

Cabbag-e Mustard Pickle. — Proceed as above, and when in the 
jar, pour over it the mustard. Pickle before given. Mix well. This 
is ready for use when cold. 

Pliiladelpliia Pepper Cabbage. — Two large, firm heads of white 
cabbage, 10 green peppers, 2 red peppers, 10 cents' worth of whole 
yellow mustard seed, 1 teaspoonful of black ground pepper and 1 
tablespoonful of salt. Chop the cabbage and peppers separately, and 
very fine, and mix all the ingredients thoroughly together. Put in 
earthen crocks, filling to within two inches of the tops and cover with 
best vinegar. 

Pickled Mangoes (Small, Green Musknielons). — Select green 

cantaloupe melons, about the size of a pint bowl ; cut out one lobe 

nicely, and carefully scrape out the seeds ; return the lobe, and tie a 

string around the melon to keep it in place. Put fifteen of these 

32 



498 PICKLES. 

melons in brine strong enough to bear up an egg ; keep them well 
under the brine, and l^t them remain for 6 days. Take them out and 
let them soak for 24 hours in fresh water. Remove from this water, 
wipe dry, and fill with the following stuffing: Make a filling of 
chopped cabbage, chopped green tomatoes, little onions, radish 
pods, young string beans, little peppers, tiny green cucumbers, and 
chopped horseradish. Any or all of those may be used. Spice 
with mustard-seed, a kw corns, and a clove or two to each melon. 
Moisten the mixture with vinegar, and fill each melon compactly. 
Replace the cut section and tie up well with cotton cord. Pack the 
melons in a jar, and cover with the following pickle : 2 quarts 
of cider vinegar, 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 
tablespoonful allspice, 1 teaspoonful cloves. Let this come to a boil 
and pour over the melons. Make twice the quantity, if necessary, or 
less, according to the amount of melons. To serve, remove the cord 
and lay the cut section by the side, in the pickle-dish. Give each 
person a portion of the melon and of the filling. These will be ready 
in a month. 

Peach Maugoes. — Take 4 quarts of large, ripe, free-stone 
peaches, firm to the touch. Cut open carefully, remove the stone, 
rub off the " fuzz." Lay in a strong brine. Let stand over night. 
Drain and rinse in cold water, wipe dry, being careful not to remove 
the skin, and fill the cavities with the following mixture: Mix in a 
bowl 2 tablespoonfuls of white mustard-seed ; half-dozen small 
onions, chopped fine; 2 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish root; 1 
teaspoonful bruised celery seed. Fill the cavities in the peaches with 
this mixture, tie them up and put in a jar. Put in a preserving 
kettle sufficient cider vinegar to cover the peaches, to which add 24 
whole cloves, the same quantity of allspice, and half an ounce of stick 
cinnamon. Stand this over the fire and bring it to the steaming 
point, but do not allow it to boil. Take it from the fire, and when 
cold, strain it over the peaches. Omit the onions if not liked. Add 
1 tablespoon horseradish, and put in each peach a small piece of 
white ginger-root. Some cooks add 1 cupful of sugar to the vinegar. 
They are ready for use in a week, are better in a month, and good as 
ever in five years. 

Onion Pickles. — Peel, put in strong brine for 24 hours, remove 
and boil in milk and water for 10 minutes, (the milk helps to whiten 



PICKLES. 499 

them). In peeling, leave the root in to keep the onion in shape. 
Drain well and place them in a jar, pouring on scalding hot vinegar. 
If spiced pickles be desired, place half a pound of " prepared spices," 
such as may be procured at the grocer's, in thin bags, and steep them 
into the vinegar 15 minutes. But if the whiteness that is so appetiz- 
ing in pickled onions is to be retained, the spices must be omitted. 
As the onions are placed in the jar, distribute sliced red pepper 
through them. These pickles present a very attractive appearance 
when put up in glass jars and sealed the same as canned fruit. 

Chow-chow (Mustard). — A mustard chow-chow is made of 3 
quarts of cucumbers, 2 quarts of green tomatoes, 2 quarts of cauli- 
flowers, 2 of small onions, 1 dozen small green peppers, and half a 
dozen red peppers. Cut them up and let all stand in a weak brine 
over night, and in the morning drain in a colander. Then scald them 
in vinegar and drain again, and put in a stone jar. Make a paste 
with 1 cup of flour, 1 pound of mustard, 1^ pounds of sugar, and a 
generous gallon of vinegar. Put in a kettle and boil, stirring often. 
Remove from the fire, and add 1 ounce of turmeric, 1 ounce of white 
mustard seed, and 1 ounce of black mustard seed. Pour over the 
vegetables at once and cover. It is very nice to can these pickles 
hot. In the absence of cauliflower, the heart and white portions of a 
firm cabbage may be used. Shred an amount equalling 2 quarts. 
Omit beans, if hard to obtain. One dozen ears of sweet corn, cut 
from the cob, may be added. 

Mustard Pickle. — One quart each of small whole cucumbers, 
large cucumbers sliced, green tomatoes sliced and small button onions, 
1 large cauliflower divided into flowerets, and 4 green peppers cut 
fine. Make a brine of 4 quarts of water and 1 pint of salt ; pour it 
over the mixture of vegetables and let it soak for 24 hours. Heat 
just enough to scald it and turn into a colander to drain. Mix 1 cup 
of flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground mustard and 1 tablespoonful of 
turmeric with enough cold vinegar to make a smooth paste. Then 
add 1 cup of sugar and enough vinegar to make 2 quarts in all. Boil 
this mixture until it thickens and is smooth, stirring all the time ; add 
the vegetables and cook until well heated through. 

Piccalilli. — One-half bushel green tomatoes, chopped ; 2 heads 
of cabbage, chopped ; 2 dozen large cucumbers, chopped ; 2 dozen 
large green peppers, shredded ; 2 dozen large onions, chopped. 



500 PICKLES. 

Sprinkle 1 pint of salt over and through this mixture, and let stand 
all night. A sausage mill is best for chopping if one is handy. In 
the morning drain through a colander, or turn the whole mixture 
into a clean flour sack and press as dry as possible. (In chopping 
the tomatoes and cucumbers drain off as much juice as possible.) 
Put in a large pan, and mix with it one-fourth pound black mustard 
seed, one-fourth pound white mustard seed, 1 ounce of celery, or 4 
heads of celery chopped fine ; 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 2 cupfuls of 
grated horseradish, 1 gallon of best cider vinegar, 1 tablespoonful 
each of cinnamon and allspice. Put over the fire and let cook 1 ^ 
hours after it begins to boil. Cook in porcelain kettle or stone jar. 
It is better to divide the quantity than to run the risk of scorching 
on the bottom. This pickle may be made without the cucumbers. 

Beet Chow-chow. — One gallon of chopped, cooked beets, 2 
quarts of finely-chopped cabbage, 1 of grated horseradish, 1 of sugar, 
1 tablespoon of salt, and black pepper to taste. Cover with vinegar, 
and set in a cool place. This will keep a long time. 

Pickled String- Beans. — Parboil the beans in slightly salted 
water. Drain and pack in cans. Turn over them hot spiced vinegar 
and seal. 

Pickled Sweet Corn. — Those who try this pickle once are sure 
to try it again. Chop 1 head of cabbage ; sprinkle over it 2 table- 
spoonfuls of salt and let stand over night. Cut the kernels from 12 
ears of corn ; chop 2 peppers and mi.x with the cabbage. Bring a half 
gallon of vinegar to a boil ; add 1 cup of sugar and a quarter of a 
pound of mustard ; pour over the corn and cabbage. Smooth the 
mustard in a little cold vinegar before putting into the hot, to prevent 
lumps. In buying mustard use care to get the light-colored, first 
grade, as dark mustard spoils both taste and looks. 

Cherry Pickles. — Fill cans or bottles with cherries (ripe) on the 
stem. Turn over them cold spiced vinegar. Mace, nutmeg, and 
coriander seed m^iy be used. Tie up in a thin cloth and boil in the 
vinegar. Paste egg paper over the bottles. Do not use for six weeks. 

Mushroom Pickles. — Take a quart of button mushrooms, small 
and firm. Cut off the stems, and rub off the skins with a piece of 
flannel dipped in salt. Rinse in salt and water, drain, and dry with a 
cloth. Put a quart of good vinegar in a preserving kettle. Spice it 
to suit the taste. Tie the spices up in a piece of muslin, and boil in 



PICKLES. 501 

the vinegar. One ounce of bruised ginger, half ounce of white pep- 
per in the kernel, half ounce mustard seed, 1 nutmeg, sliced or broken. 
Drop the mushrooms in the boiling vinegar, and boil 7 minutes. 
Skim out, and pack in jars or bottles. Bottles with corks are well 
suited for mushrooms, one small bag of spices going into each bottle. 
In case the spiced vinegar runs short, fill the vessel with cold vinegar, 
so as to cover the pickle. 

Beet Pickles. — Cook the beets until tender, and cut in pieces of 
an even size. Boil vinegar enough to cover them, together with a 
blade of mace, a piece of ginger root, and a piece of horseradish, and 
pour over the beets boiling hot; when cold, cork up. If to be kept 
long, seal hot, with egg paper. Cold sliced beets may be kept at 
least 2 months, by slicing a little horseradish in the vinegar. A little 
white sugar may also be added. 

Pickled Celery Roots. — Trim and cut the solid white roots of 
celery into thick slices. Boil in salted water 10 minutes. Drain, and 
pack in a jar. Pour boiling vinegar, spiced with whole peppercorns, 
over them. Let stand 24 hours. Pour off, mix mustard with it, and 
a little cayenne. Heat to boiling, and pour back. Cork, and paste 
over with egg paper. Root celery can be prepared in the same way. 

Pickled Peaches and Apricots. — Take fruit of a full growth, but 
perfectly green ; put in a strong brine. When they have been in a 
week, remove, wipe with a soft cloth, and lay in a pickle jar. Put to 
half a gallon of vinegar, quarter of an ounce of cloves, half an ounce 
of cinnamon, half ounce each of pepper, sliced ginger root and mus- 
tard seed. Boil the vinegar with the spices (tied in bits of thin cloth), 
and pour over the peaches boiling hot. Pour off the vinegar several 
times, re-heat and turn back. 

Vinegar. 

Apple Vineg-ar. — Excellent vinegar can be made from the sound 
cores and parings of apples used in cooking. Put in a jar, cover with 
cold water, and add half a pint of molasses to every 2 gallons ; cover 
the jar with netting; add more parings and cores occasionally. Rinse 
dishes that have held honey or preserves, and pour the rinsings in the 
vinegar jar. If a little apple sauce has soured, pour water over it, 
and after a few days' drain, not strain, the w^ter into the vinegar jar. 
Crabapple cores and trimmings are an addition. Some housewives 



502 PICKLES. 

add the cold tea left from meals to make the necessary amount of 
fluid. Do not strain the vinegar except as it is needed for use. The 
sediment that is left after pouring it off from the parings will settle to 
the bottom. In making any kind of vinegar it hastens the process to 
put in a piece of " mother" from old vinegar. Some put in brown 
sugar, a piece of brown paper soaked in molasses, or a piece of bread 
soaked in yeast. 

Honey Viiieg-ar. — One quart of honey (clear) to 8 quarts of water. 
After fermentation a fine, white vinegar will result. Many make 
honey vinegar from the trimmings and rinsings in preparing honey 
for the market. It makes good vinegar. 

Potato Vinegar. — One gallon of water in which potatoes have 
been boiled, three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, three-quarters 
of a cup of hop yeast. In a month clear good vinegar will result. 
Put in an earthen jar to ferment. 

Celery Vinegar. — A teacupful of celery-seed in a quart of vinegar. 
Prepare as above. This is a delicious seasoning for many dishes. 

Savory Vinegar. — Equal parts of tarragon, chives, a green chili, a 
clove or 2, and the thinly-pared rind of a lemon added to the quart of 
plain vinegar as before. These flavored vinegars improve any salad. 

Onion Vinegar. — Six large onions, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 table- 
spoon of white sugar, 1 quart best vinegar. Chop the onions, strew 
on the salt, and let them stand 5 or 6 hours ; dissolve the sugar in 
the vinegar, scald the vinegar, pour it over the onions, put them in a 
jar, cover tight, and leave for a fortnight. Then strain and bottle. 

Sweet Pickles. 

Sweet Pickled Peaches. — A quart of vinegar, 4 pounds of sugar, 
an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of whole cloves to 7 
pounds of prepared fruit. Tie the spices in muslin bags ; let the 
sugar and vinegar come to a boil ; skim ; put in the fruit; a little at 
a time ; cook till soft. Skim out the fruit into jars or cans, boil the 
syrup 15 minutes, pour over the fruit and seal. The above propor- 
tion is equally good for pears, plums, sweet apples and quinces. Put 
the spices into the vinegar with the sugar. Some cooks .stick a few 
cloves into each peach. If this is not done, prick each peach a few 
times. This prevents the skin from loosening. The peaches should 
be ripe and firm ; wipe them with a coarse cloth. 



PICKLES. 503 

Peach Mangoes. — Take sound, ripe, free-stone peaches ; wipe, 
split and remove the pits. Fill the cavities with finely chopped to- 
matoes, grated horseradish and mustard seed. Put the halves to- 
gether ; tie each one. Pack in a jar, and cover with boiling syrup, 
made of 2 pounds of brown sugar to 1 quart of vinegar. Seal. 

Spiced Peaches. — Pare, stone and halve 9 pounds of peaches. 
Add 4 pounds of sugar, ] pint of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of cloves 
(whole cloves), 3 or 4 sticks of cinnamon and mace. Let it boil 
one-half hour, or less if they grow too soft. 

Pickled Pear.s. — Use half as much sugar as you have fruit. Pare 
the fruit, leaving on the stems. Good brown sugar is richer than 
white. To 8 pounds of fruit, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 cup of mixed 
whole spice, allspice, cloves, stick cinnamon, a very little mace and 
some cassia buds. Do not use as much of the cloves as of the others. 
Tie the spices in one or more bags ; boil them in the vinegar and 
sugar. Skim well, and then add the fruit ; boil till scalded and tender. 
Skim out the fruit, and pack carefully in stone jars ; boil the syrup 5 
minutes longer, then pour over the fruit. The next day pour off the 
syrup, boil again and pour again on the fruit. Do this for three suc- 
cessive days. Keep the bags of spice in the syrup, and lay one on 
top of each jar of fruit. For those who do not care for very sweet 
spiced fruits, the proportions maybe 4 pounds of sugar to 10 pounds 
of fruit. Delicious with all kinds of cold meats. Seckel pears are 
nice prepared in this way. 

Pickled Apples. — Scald together 1 quart vinegar (half water if 
very strong), 3 pounds of sugar and 2 ounces stick cinnamon ; add 7 
pounds of pared apples, with 4 cloves stuck in each apple, and sim- 
mer very gently until tender. Large crabapples may be used in this 
way, but russet apples are best ; they are excellent in the early spring. 
When the apples are all cooked, boil the .syrup 5 minutes longer, 
and pour over the fruit. Leave in the spices. 

Sweet Pickled Citron. — Seven pounds of fruit, 2 pounds of sugar, 
1 quart of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of whole cloves, allspice and a stick 
of cinnamon ; boil the fruit in 2 quarts of water and a small piece of 
alum until soft, pour off the water, boil vinegar, sugar and spices to- 
gether 20 minutes, drop the fruit in and let it simmer 1 hour. Seal 
up hot. If put in large jars unsealed, pour off the vinegar several 
times, scald and pour back on the fruit. 



504 PICKLES. 

Pickled Siberian Crabapples. — Leave on the stems, but remove 
the blossom end. Select large, perfect fruit. Take G pounds of the 
fruit. Steam in a steamer until tender. Make a syrup of 3 pounds 
of sugar, lj4 pints of vinegar, 1 ounce of stick cinnamon, one-fourth 
ounce of whole cloves. Boil it 10 minutes, and skim. Put in the 
apples, and boil 5 or 10 minutes, but not enough to break, and can at 
once. Some prefer to omit the spices, and simply use the syrup of 
sugar and vinegar. 

Piclvled Watermelon (Sweet). — Use for these the rind of a good- 
sized watermelon. Pare and cut into thick slices and then in dice or 
fancy shapes. Boil 1 ounce of alum in a gallon of water and pour 
over the sliced melon, letting it stand on the back of the stove for 
half a day. Remove from the alum water and let it lie in cold water 
until cold ; drain. Have ready a quart of vinegar, 3 pounds of sugar, 
an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of cloves. Boil sugar 
and vinegar ; strain ; add the spices and rind, and boil until the rind 
is soft and clear. Seal up in jars hot, though they will keep without. 
They can be used in three weeks. If left unsealed, turn off the syrup 
several times in the first week, scald and pour back hot on the fruit. 

Sweet Pickled Musknielon. — Select cantaloupes or muskmelons 
not quite ripe. Cut into oblong pieces, and remove the rind and soft 
part near the seeds. Prepare the spiced pickle in the following pro- 
portions : To every 8 pounds of melon, take 1 pint of vinegar and 3 
pounds of sugar. Mix half a teaspoonful each of ground mace and 
cloves, 1 teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice and cinnamon. Tie this 
mixture into a small piece of cheesecloth, and boil it with the vine- 
gar. Cook the melon carefully in the hot syrup until tender, then 
skim out into a large bowl. Boil the liquor down, and pour it over 
the fruit. Repeat this 3 or 4 times, and the last time heat all to- 
gether, then put into jars and seal. This pickle will keep without 
sealing. Or make precisely like Pickled Watermelon Rind. 

Ripe Cucumber Pickles (Sweet). — Peel large, ripe cucumbers ; 
cut in quarters lengthwise, remove the seeds and juicy pulp, and let 
them stand over night in a weak brine. In the morning drain and 
scald slightly in clear water, then cook until clear in a syrup made as 
follows : To every 10 pounds of cucumbers use 4 pounds of sugar, a 
quart of'vinegar, and a tablespoon each of whole cinnamon, mace 
and cloves. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle with a teacupful 



PICKLES. 505 

of hot water; let it boil up, skim, and add the vinegar and the spices, 
the latter in a little cheesecloth bag. Pack in a stone jar and cover 
with the syrup boiled down quite thick. 

Greeu Cuciiuiber Pickles (Sweet). — Large, green cucumbers 
can be pared, seeded, cut in narrow strips, soaked in salt water and 
pickled same way as ripe cucumbers. 

Pickled Plums. — Take 7 pounds of plums, pour over them a pint 
of hot water, cover closely and steam till tender. Then add a pint of 
good vinegar, 4 pounds of brown sugar, and a tablespoonful each of 
cinnamon, allspice and cloves, with two-thirds of a teaspoonful of 
cayenne. Cover and simmer for half an hour, when they are ready 
for the cans. Before serving on the pickle dish remove the pits. If 
not sealed, heat the syrup three successive mornings and pour back 
on the plums. 

Pickled Blackberries. — Make a syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and 
a pint of vinegar, bringing it to a boil. Drop in the berries and cook 
till they are tender; then seal in jars; no spices being required. 

Pickled Berries. — Berries of any kind can be pickled in the 
same way. 

Spiced Blackberries. — Spiced blackberries are made very much 
like spiced currants. To 7 pounds of fruit allow half a pint of vine- 
gar and half a pint of blackberry juice, Sj4 pounds of granulated 
sugar, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves and 
an ounce of powdered allspice. Let this preparation, cook steadily for 
about an hour or an hour and a half until it is thoroughly reduced. 

Spiced Berries. — Spiced berries of any kind — raspberries, cran- 
berries, currants, etc., can be made same as Spiced Blackberries. 

Spicpd Grapes. — Grapes make an excellent spiced fruit. To 
prepare them, pick from the stems 7 pounds of the ripe grapes and 
separate the pulp from the skins. Put the skins into a preserving 
kettle over the fire, v;ith enough water to prevent them from burn- 
ing. In another kettle place the pulp, and cook until it will press 
easily through a sieve to remove the seeds. Add the strained pulp 
to the skins, with half a pint of sharp vinegar and 1 ounce each of 
whole cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Boil together until it is thick, 
and put into jelly glasses. 

Pickled Quinces (Sweet). — Pare and core the quinces and cut 
into eighths; to 7 pounds of the fruit allow 4 pounds of sugar, a half 



50G PICKLKS. 

ounce of ginger-root, 2 teaspoonfuls of ground allspice, the same of 
ground cinnamon, a pint and a half of vinega; , a teaspoonful of ground 
cloves, and one-half teaspoonful of ground mace. Mix the spices and 
divide into four parts; put each part in a small square of muslin, tie 
tightly, allowing room for the spices to swell. Put the sugar and 
vinegar into a porcelain-lined kettle, add the spices and the ginger- 
root scraped and cut into slices. When this comes to a boil, add the 
quinces. Take at once from the fire and stand aside in a cool place 
until the next day. Then drain off the liquor from the quinces, bring 
it again to the boil, pour it back over the quinces and let all remain till 
the following day. Repeat the operation several times, and the last 
day boil the quinces until tender. Then the liquor must be boiled 
down, until it forms a thick syrup; with this just cover the fruit, put 
in jars and tie up for keeping. 

Pickled Cherries. — Pick over the cherries carefully, put in a jar 
and pour over them hot spiced vinegar, made in the proportion of 1 
pound of sugar to 1 pint of vinegar and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon. 
Boil, skim and pour over the fruit, which it should cover. Let stand 
a few days, pour off the vinegar and scald. Pour back boiling hot, 
seal at once, or let cool and simply tie closely. 

Sweet Beet Pickle. — Boil and slice, or cut in dice. Pour over 
them a hot, sweet pickle, made in the following proportions : One 
pound of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, 1 
teaspoonful of cinnamon. Tie spice in a cloth. Pour over beets hot. 
If to be kept, can at once. 

Pickled Cabbag-e (Sweet). — Pickle in the same manner as toma- 
toes. Use either red or white, slice thinly, do not steam, simply pack 
in jars after draining free from salt, and pour the boiling spiced vine- 
gar over. 

Mixed Sweet Pickles. — Slice tomatoes (green) and cabbage. 
Red cabbage will give the whole pickle a beautiful color. Pack in 
salt (pack separately); drain in the morning, strain the tomatoes, and 
pack cabbage and tomatoes in a jar, and pour over them the hot spiced 
vinegar, given in rule for tomatoes. Press down with a plate ; 1 
quart of vinegar, etc., to 10 pounds of the mixed pickles. 




So MANY housekeepers are possessed with the 
idea that the preparation of ices and ice cream entails 
unHmited trouble and expense, that many families are 
needlessly deprived of these most refreshing hot wea- 
ther dainties. 

To begin with, it may be mentioned that a regular 
freezer is not an absolute necessity. Of course, it renders the prepa- 
ration of sherbet and ice cream much easier, but a tin bucket with 
tight fitting cover will answer all purposes, by placing it inside a 
wooden water bucket, and packing tightly around with ice and salt, 
in the proportion of one-fourth salt to three-fourths ice. In the 
absence of ice, a mixture of snow and salt will serve equally well. 

Most people make the mistake of trying to freeze their materials 
with ice broken into any and every size. It needs to be fine, almost 
as fine as the salt. If one has not a shaver for ice such as the ice- 
men use in making fine ice, lay the ice in a stout piece of crash, and 
smash it up on something solid, using a heavy hammer. You can 
break the ice by pressing a hat-pin into it, as the trained nurse does 
in the sick room. The finer your ice is broken, the sooner the cream 
will freeze. The ice in melting gives off heat, and many degrees 
colder is the melted ice and salt than the ice itself Alternate the 
salt and ice in packing, and cover the top with a newspaper to keep 
the air off, and prevent melting the ice where it will do no gooJ. 
Pour the cream into the pail, cover, then turn the pail by the hand 
round and round in the ice for a few moments. Take off the cover 
from the can, and with a spoon detach any of the cream which may 
have frozen to the side. Again put on the cover, continue to turn the 
handle, repeating from time to time the operation thus described, press- 
ing the cream down with a stout spoon to make it thoroughly smooth. 
Colors for Creams and Ices. — In the making of sherbets and 
creams, both artistic taste and prudence are required in the mntter of 

507 



508 ICES AND IC1<: CREAM. 

colorings. Here are some excellent suc^gestions for preparing pure 
vegetable tints that can be compounded at home, and are, therefore, 
devoid of all injurious substances. 

For amber, 4 ounces deodorized alcohol, 1 ounce turmeric. Shake 
till dissolved ; strain, and boltlc. It gives a bright gold color. Blue 
can be made by rubbing a piece of indigo on a plate with a little 
water until the required shade is obtained. Carmine has always a 
charming effect. Use 1 pint of water, half ounce of carmine, three- 
quarters ounce of aqua ammonia, F. F. P., 2 tablespoonfuls of rosewater. 
Put the carmine and ammonia, with a gill of water, into a bottle, shake 
till dissolved, add the rest of the water, and let it stand a day or two 
to settle. Pour off the clear liquid, add the rosewater, and keep 
tightly corked. 

For pistachio creams take spinach ; the green color, or juice, can 
be prepared as follows : Wash the leaves, drain them on a sieve, and 
pound them in a mortar to a pulp. Wring it through a strong mus- 
lin cloth as hard as possible, pound the pulp again with a very little 
water, wring it once more, and cook the juice in a farina boiler until 
it thickens like jelly. Drain it on a fine hair sieve, and cut the pulp 
through with a spoon upon a sheet of paper, and dry it to a thick 
paste. Add an equal bulk of pulverized sugar, work smooth, and 
bottle for use. There are, also, perfectly harmless color pastes, that 
can be purchased in large towns. 

Spinach Green. — Cook a peck of spinach in about a pint of water 
for 10 minutes, covering the pot it is in closely, then drain it and take 
it up. Lay it in a coarse cloth in a wooden bowl, and mash and 
pound it thoroughly ; then wring it in a cloth to extract every particle 
of juice that can be taken from it. A small quantity of this will give 
a perceptible green color to dishes in which it is used. 

Cooliineal Coloring-. — The cochineal coloring is made by taking 
an ounce of cochineal, 1 ounce of cream tartar, 2 drams of alum, and 
half a pint of water, and boil all, except the alum, together until they 
are reduced to one-half Then add the alum, and strain the mixture, 
and put it away in bottles for use. A few drops will color a consi- 
derable quantity, so the best way to use it is to take a drop at a time, 
till you have a deep-enough color. 

Packing Ice Cream. — Pack and freeze in the usual wn\', then as 
soon as frozen pack in newspapers all around, instead of putting in 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 609 

any more salt and ice; the newspapers will keep the ice already left 
in after freezing. This is a great saving of ice and keeps the cream 
frozen longer than any other way. 

Ice Cream Without Ice. — Nitrate of ammonia can be used for 
freezing instead of ice and salt by mixing, if a small freezer be used, 
7 pounds of nitrate with 3 quarts of water. The freezer is then ro- 
tated, and the cream or water is quickly frozen, provided the material 
is first cooled down before applying the nitrate. The nitrate can be 
recovered for further use by evaporating the solution to dryness. 

Moulding Ice Cream. — If you wish to mould ice cream or serve 
it in forms, have your mould ready at the time you remove the dasher 
from the can, and also have ready a tub or 
bucket containing a mixture of coarse ice 
and salt. Moisten the mould with cold 
water, then fill it quickly with ice cream, 
pressing it down with a spoon to fill every 
part of the mould. Lay a piece of wax 
paper over the cream large enough to pro- 
ject beyond the edges when the lid is on ; 
put on the lid and imbed the mould in the 
tub of ice and salt ; cover with a piece of Ice Cream Freezer, 
carpet and stand aside for 1 or 2 hours. When ready to use, lift 
the mould from the ice, wipe it carefully, plunge it into a pan of 
warm water, remove the lid and paper, and turn the mould out 
carefully on a napkin placed on a pretty dish. If it should stick 
to the mould, wait for a moment, as the heat of the room will, as 
a rule, loosen it. Serve it in slices, unless it has been previously 
moulded in individual moulds. 

Moulds for Creams. — Individual moulds can be had in every 
possible shape, from cooing doves to full-blown roses, and beautiful, 
indeed, is the effect ; but their price seems exorbitant to the house- 
wife. One quart of cream will fill 10 pieces. 

The bleeding heart is another favorite. The heart is colored with 
carmine, and an arrow runs through it. This beautiful affair can be 
used for an engagement luncheon. At a smart dinner, ices in the 
shape of roses are piled high in a gilt basket, and one served to each 
guest. For a supper the candle is a unique addition well worth men- 
tioning. The candlesticks were made of different colored creams 




510 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 



the candle itself being white. At the top was placed a small taper, 
which was lit as each guest was served. At a luncheon given to a 
debutante flowers were the artistic scheme. At each cover was a dif- 
ferent flower. The roses were frozen in yellow and red, pale pink 
and blush. The stem and leaves were of artificial make, and the 
effect can be imagined. Tulips and small sunflowers are treated in 
like manner. For lilies of the valley, the leaf above is frozen, and in 
the middle of it, just before the time for serving, are placed the deli- 
cate blossoms. 

Tutti-Frutti Flavoring. — The most delicious flavoring imagin- 
able for ices is made in this way. When the strawberries are ripe, 
take a quart of brandy, a pound of sugar and a pound of berries and 
put them all into a 2-gallon jar. Then as the raspberries and cur- 
rants, cherries, blackberries, grapes, peaches, apricots and other fruits 
come in their season, add to the contents of the jar, allowing to every 
pound of fruit three-quarters of a pound of sugar. No more brandy 
will be necessary. The one precaution to be taken is that the fruit 
must be stirred every day with a long-handled spoon in order to keep 
it from spoiling. This is only necessary during the hot weather, but 
it is a thing that must not be neglected. Alcohol may be used instead 
of brandy ; 1 pint. 

Ice Cream. 

"Easy" Cream. — One quart of new milk, 1 quart of sweet 
cream, 1 pint of powdered or granulated sugar, 2 eggs, whites of, 

beaten stiff, 1 large spoonful of va- 
nilla. Place on ice until thoroughly 
cold, and freeze. Excellent, and very 
easily prepared. 

Easy Cream Without Eggs. — 
Place the can in the freezer, pack with 
two parts pounded ice and one of 
salt. Pour 1 quart of cream and 1 pint 
of milk into the can. Into 1 level cup 
of sugar stir 2 teaspoonfuls of va- 
Ice Shredder. nilla ; add this to the cream, close 

the can, turn the crank slowly, increasing the speed as the cream 
hardens. When it turns with difficulty, remove beater, stir up con- 
tents with a spoon, cover, and set in a cool place for 2 hours. 




ICES AND ICE CREAM. 511 

Ice Cream With Egrgrs. — Four eggs, 2 quarts of sweet milk, 1 
quart of cream, 1 pint of sugar, flavoring. Beat the yolks into a foam, 
adding sugar, a little at a time, until dissolved; add sweet milk and 
the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Heat until at the boil- 
ing point, remove Irom the stove, and set away until perfectly cold. 
Add the cream, whipped stiff, to the mixture, flavor, and freeze. 

Ice Cream Without Egg-s. — Two quarts of sweet milk, 1 ^^ 
pounds of powdered or granulated sugar, 1 quart of cream, half tea- 
cupful of cornstarch or 1 scant teacupful of flour, lemon or vanilla 
fl ivoring. Take 3 pints of milk, put on to boil in a tin pail inside a 
k'cttle of boiling water, mix the cornstarch or flour in the remaining 
pint of milk until smooth, dissolve in it the sugar, and stir carefully 
into the boiling milk; when thick, remove from the fire and strain. 
When cold, flavor to taste, add the cream, and freeze. 

Vanilla Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepan, over the fire, 1 quart of 
milk, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of extract 
of vanilla and 8 yolks of eggs ; stir with an egg beater, and when be- 
ginning to thicken without boiling, strain the mixture and allow it 
to become cold. Place it in a freezer, and keep it in a frozen state 
until time for serving. 

Snow Cream. — If made with dry and soft snow it is equal to ice 
cream, and is made in a few minutes. One egg, half cup of sweet 
milk or sweet cream, one teaspoon of vanilla. Stir in enough snow 
to make it stiff. Dry snow is the thing to use. It can be made 
without the egg. 

Frozen Custard. — Put a quart of milk on the fire to heat. Beat 
the yolks of 6 eggs, with a teacupful of sugar, and stir into the milk. 
Let come to a boil, take from the fire, add a pint of very rich milk 
and the beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor with vanilla, then turn 
into a freezer and freeze. 

Lemon Ice Cream. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, thicken 
with white sugar, add very carefully 3 pints of sweet cream, freeze 
hard. 

Fried Ice Cream. — A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped 
in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or 
butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immedi- 
ately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was 
first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and 



512 ICES AND ICE CREAM. 

the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to 
reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious. 

Coft'ee Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepan on the fire lyi pints milk, 
the yolks of 5 eggs, 14 ounces of sugar, and half a pint of very strong 
black coffee, Siir well with an egg beater, and when beginning to 
thicken, without boiling, strain your mixture and allow it to become 
cold, and freeze as vanilla ice cream. 

Chocolate Ice Cream. — One quart of sweet cream,, half a pound 
of granulated sugar, 2 ounces of chocolate melted over boiling water 
and stirred in slowly, 1^ teaspoons of vanilla. Freeze. 

Chocolate Moss. — One quart of sweet cream, sweetened, flavored, 
and whipped to a stiff froth ; drain it ; have 2 squares of chocolate 
melting in a basin ; set in hot water; stir carefully into the whipped 
cream, and put all into a pail or freezer, and freeze without stirring. 
When wanted for the table, wet a cloth in hot water, wrap around 
the pail until the cream slides out. Slice and serve. It looks like 
moss, and is delicious. Make in the morning and serve for tea. 

Pistachio Ice Cream. — To a pint each of milk and cream, allow 
half pound of pistachio nuts, quarter pound of sweet almonds, a cup 
of sugar, and juice of 1 lemon. Blanch the nuts and pound to a 
paste; bring the milk and cream to boiling; remove from fire, stir in 
the nuts, lemon juice, and sugar, and enough spinach coloring to tint 
the whole a light, dainty green. When cold, freeze. 

Chestnut Ice Cream. — To make this delicious ice cream use 2 
quarts of cream, a cupful and a half of sugar, the juice and rind of an 
orange, a cupful of water, a gill of wine (the wine can be omitted and 
the juice of another orange used instead), and 30 French chestnuts. 
Shell and blanch the chestnuts, cover them with boiling water and 
cook for half an hour. Drain off the water, pound the chestnuts in a 
mortar, and then rub them through a puree sieve. Put the sugar, 
grated orange rind and water in a stewpan and place on the fire. 
Boil for 20 minutes, add the chestnut puree, and cook for 5 minutes 
longer. Take from the fire and add the orange juice and wine. 
When cold, add the cream and freeze. 

Wliite Cherry Ice Cream. — Put 2 cups of sugar and 1 cup of 
water in a saucepan over the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
and let the syrup come to a boil. Drop in carefully 1 quart of Cali- 
fornia white wax cherries, and simmer gently 15 minutes, strain 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 513 

carefully, add a quart of cream to the syrup, and freeze. When it 
begins to turn hard, beat well, take out the dasher and stir in the 
fruit. Pack and let stand for two or three hours to ripen. 

Piueapple Ice Cream. — Three pints of cream, 1 pint milk, 2 
ripe pineapples, 2 pounds sugar ; slice pineapples thin, scatter sugar 
over them, and let stand 3 hours. Cut or chop the fruit into the 
syrup and strain. Beat gradually into the cream, and freeze. Re- 
move a few bits of pineapple, and stir in cream when half frozen. 
Peach ice cream made in the same way is delicious. 

Caramel Ice Cream. — Allow, to a quart of cream and a pint of 
milk, three quarters pound of sugar and white of 1 egg. Place one- 
fourth pound of the sugar in a pan over the fire, and stir until it be- 
comes liquid and turns dark brown. Heat the milk to boiling (and 
one-half the cream), pour in the burnt sugar and stir a few minutes. 
When cold add the rest of the sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla. Mix 
well and freeze. When half frozen, add the remaining pint of cream, 
well whipped, and the white of the egg, well beaten, and finish freez- 
ing. In all cases where a freezer is used, the beater should be turned 
rather slowly at first, until the cream begins to congeal, and then 
quite rapidly, until the cream is so stiff that the beater can no longer 
be turned, when all salt should be carefully wiped off from the lid, 
the lid and beater removed, and the cream well beaten and pressed 
down with a wooden .spatula or spoon ; the cover may be replaced, a 
cork fitted tightly in hole in cover. The water should be drawn off, 
and more ice and salt added, then cover with a piece of carpet or 
blanket, and set away in cool place until needed. 

Cocoaimt Ice Cream. — For this, take a quart of cream, a pint 
of milk, 13^ cups of sugar, 3 eggs, a cup of desiccated cocoanut, and 
the juice and rind of 1 lemon; beat together the eggs and grated 
lemon rind, add this to the milk in a double boiler, and stir until it 
begins to thicken ; then add the cocoanut, and set away to cool ; 
when cold, add the sugar and lemon juice mixed together; then stir 
in the cream and freeze. 

Currant and Raspberry Ice Cream. — To a pint of cream and a 
pint of milk allow a quart of red raspberries, half a pint of currants 
and 2 cupfuls of sugar ; bring the milk and cream to boiling point, 
remove from the fire, stir in 1 cupful of sugar until dissolved, and set 
the liquid away to cool; wash the raspberries and currants, and either 
33 



514 



ICES AND ICK CREAM. 




Ice Cream Disher. 



rub them through a fine sieve or else strain them through coarse 
muslin, being sure that no seeds are left in the juice; then add the 
remaining cupful of sugar; when the cream has become cold, add to 
it the juice, and freeze. 

Curraut Ice Cream. — Mash 2 pounds of red ripe currants ; add 
a pound of sugar to them, and let stand fur 2 hours; strain and add 
the juice to a quart of thick, sweet cream; if not sufficiently sweet, 
add more sugar; pour in a freezer, let stand 10 minutes and freeze. 

Almond lee Cream. — To a quart of cream and a pint of milk, 
allow a pint of water, a pint of blanched almonds, the yolks of 5 eggs^ 

and 1 j/ cups of sugar ; place the 
almonds in a frying-pan, and stir 
them over the fire until they become 
of a rich brown hue, then pound them 
to a paste in a mortar; cook the milk 
and pounded almonds together for 
20 minutes, being careful not to allow 
it to scorch ; boil the water and 
sugar together for 25 minutes ; beat 
the yolks of the eggs and stir them into the boiling syrup; beat this 
mixture for 4 minutes, then remove from fire and stir it gradually into 
the almonds and milk ; strain the mixture through a sieve, pressing 
through as much of the almonds as possible ; set away to cool ; while 
cooling, stir occasionally ; when cold, add the cream and half tea- 
spoon of almond extract; freeze. 

Blueberry Ice Cream. — Blueberry ice cream is rather odd, and 
yet altogether delicious. To make it use 1 quart of large ripe blue- 
berries, 1 quart of cream, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. Freeze the cream for 15 minutes. Remove the beater 
and stir in the blueberries. Pack in a mould or in a freezer and let 
stand for an hour or more. 

Raspberry Ice Cream. — To a pint of milk and a pint of cream 
allow a scanty pound of sugar, a quart of raspberries and white of 1 
egg; heat the milk and cream to boiling point, take off the fire, add 
the sugar (one-half) and set away until cold ; mash the raspberries 
with the rest of the sugar, and as soon as the milk has cooled, add the 
raspberries and freeze ; when the cream is half frozen, add the well- 
beaten white of the egg and finish freezing. 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 515 

Peach Ice Cream. — Place in a double boiler 1 pint of milk and a 
generous pint of sugar. Put over the fire and let it boil 20 minutes. 
Peel and slice enough sound, ripe peaches to make a quart ; rub them 
through a sieve and add to the boiling milk with the yolks of 3 eggs 
well beaten. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring all the time. Take from 
the fire and stir a few moments. When cold, add a half teaspoonful 
of almond extract and 1 quart of cream, and freeze. 

Orang-e Ice Creaiii. — Grate the yellow peel (none of the white) 
from 3 large oranges. Add the juice of the oranges, mixed with a 
cup of sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs. Stir 1 pint of boiling milk 
gradually into the eggs. It must not curdle. Add a pint of perfectly 
fresh cream, and if the mixture is not a good yellow, a drop or two of 
the yellow French coloring liquid used by confectioners and caterers. 
These vegetable colorings are perfectly safe and often add considera- 
bly to the appearance of the dish. Freeze the ice cream as usual 
and dish it out in little round forms, about the size of small oranges. 
There is a scoop for the purpose of dishing ice cream which serves it 
in a perfectly round, symmetrical form. It costs but 25 cents, and 
can be found at any shop supplying bakers' and confectioners' utensils. 
These are nice to serve any cream with. 

Strawberry Ice Cream. — One quart of cream, 1 quart of straw- 
berries, 1 pound of sugar, juice of 1 lemon. Put half the sugar and 
half the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. When the sugar is dis- 
solved, stand aside to cool. Add the remaining half of the sugar and 
the lemon juice to the berries, mash and stand aside 1 hour, then 
strain through a fine muslin. Add the remaining half of the cream 
to the sweetened cream and freeze. When frozen stir in the fruit 
juice, beat thoroughly, repack and stand away to harden. 

Tutti-Frutti Ice Cream. — To every quart of rich vanilla cream, 
partly frozen, add 1 pint of mixed almonds, citron and mixed French 
candied fruit chopped fine. Finish freezing, add one-quarter of a cup 
of orange juice and put away to ripen. 

Frozen Strawberries. — Stem and wash 1 quart of the ripe ber- 
ries. Mash them with a wooden spoon, add 1 pound of granulated 
sugar and the juice of 2 lemons ; mix and let it stand an hour; then 
add 1 quart of water and let it freeze. See that the sugar is thor- 
oughly dissolved before turning the mixture into the freezing can. 
This may be served as soon as frozen. Delicious. 



516 ICES AND ICE CREAM. 

Frozen Raspberries. — Prepare in precisely the same manner as 
Frozen Strawberries. 

Frozeu Oranges. — Boil together for 10 minutes 1 cupful of 
water, half a cupful of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of 2 oranges. 
Add to this preparation the juice of four oranges ; cool and freeze. 
Boil 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar with 3 of water for 2 minutes. Beat 
this into the white of 1 egg that has been beaten to a stiff, dry froth. 
Stir this meringue into the frozen mixture, and it is ready to serve. 

Frozen Clieri'ies. — Two quarts of pie or morel lo cherries, or 
1 -quart can, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of water. Stone the cherries, 
mix them with the sugar and stand aside 1 hour ; then stir until the 
sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Add the water, put into the freezer, 
and turn rapidly until frozen. This will serve 10 persons. 

Frozen Banana. — Peel half a dozen fine, ripe bananas, and slice 
with a silver knife. Mash fine. Boil half a pint of water and half a 
pound of sugar for 5 minutes; when cool, strain and add, with the 
juice of an orange, to the bananas. Put in the freezer, and when 
frozen stir in a half pint of whipped cream. Let stand for an hour. 
This will serve six persons. 

Banana Glace. — Frozen bananas are very nice, served as a sweet 
course at a luncheon in the place of ices or ice cream. Get the best 
bananas you can find, with the skins as perfect as possible. Peel one 
section — that is, turn it back carefully without separating from the 
rest of the skin — and take out the fruit. Mash the pulp, and to each 
cupful of it add a pint of whipped cream and sugar to taste. Fill the 
banana skins with the mixture, shaping it as much like the fruit as 
possible. Cover so that skins will not appear to be broken, and pack 
in an ice cream can. Make a freezing mixture of salt and ice, as for 
ice cream, and let them stand from 2 to 3 hours. If you choose, the 
pulp may be colored with strawberry juice, but must not be thinned 
too much, or there will be trouble in packing the fruit 

Frozen Watermelon. — Split a ripe melon into halves, scoop out 
centre, rejecting seeds. Put this in a bowl and, with a silver knife or 
spoon, chop the melon into small pieces; add juice of 1 lemon and 
half pound of powdered sugar. Throw this in a freezer, pack as 
usual, and turn very slowly for 10 or 15 minutes, until the mixture 
is like soft snow. Serve in glasses. If you use wine, at serving time 
put 1 teaspoonful of sherry in each glass. 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 517 

Frozen Peaches. — Prepare same as Frozen Cherries, cutting the 
fruit in bhces and adding 1 pound of sugar to the quart of shced 
fruit. When frozen, the stiffly-beaten white of an egg may be stirred 
in, and it may either be packed away an hour or served at once. 

Peaches and Cream. — If one has an ice-cream freezer, peaches 
and cream are ahnost equal to ice cream. Prepare as for the table 
fresh, juicy peaches; season them liberally with cream and sugar, 
place some of the quarters on the bottom of the mould, then fill. 
Freeze the mass solid without stirring. It will usually take 1}4 to 
1^ hours. Turn out and serve immediately. 

Frozen Apples. — Take finely-flavored apples, grate them, make 
them very sweet and freeze them. This is a delicious dish. Pears 
and quinces, grated (or stewed and run through a sieve), then made 
very sweet and frozen, are also very nice. The flavor is much better 
preserved when the fruit is grated. 

Peach Granito. — Half-dozen peaches, skinned and chopped. 
Make a syrup of a cupful of sugar and a little less water. Season 
with lemon, pack in salt and ice. When nearly frozen, add the whites 
of two eggs firmly whipped, mix and mould. 

Orang-e Granito. — Mix 1 pint of orange juice with 3 pints of 
sugar syrup, made as follows : Dissolve 2 pounds of sugar in 2 pints 
of cold water; next add the juice of 2 lemons and the thin peel of 
one; strain through a fine sieve, pour into a well-packed freezer and 
freeze for 5 minutes ; then take off" the cover, cut the frozen parts 
loose from the sides of the freezer, turn for a few minutes longer and 
serve. 

Frozen Frnits. — One or more fruits may be used in this dish. 
They should be divided into convenient portions and dressed with sugar 
to taste. This combination is placed in the can of a freezer and salted 
ice packed round it. After an hour, cut the congealed portions 
away from the side of the can, renew the ice and salt, and let it stand 
until frozen, which will require about three hours. 

Frozen Pudding-. — Fill the mould with, first, slices of sponge 
cake, then sliced bananas, then some smooth jelly (orange or lemon 
is nice), then macaroons, and so on till the mould is full. Make a 
steamed custard, in which dissolve a teaspoon of gelatine. When cool, 
not cold, pour over the pudding and pack as before directed and serve 
with sauce. Or flavor 1 quart of ice cream with 1 teaspoon each of 



m 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 



extract of vanilla, orange and rose water. When partly frozen, add 
a mixture of cherries, plums, apricots, pears, strawberries, peaches, or 
use figs, dates, raisins, currants and citron. A tablespoon each of 
Madeira wine and Jamaica rum can be used in the place of the extracts. 
Tuscan Pnddinj*-. — Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of milk, 
sweetened with half a cup of sugar, boiled and j^oured on .'> beaten eggs. 
Return the mixture to the saucepan and stir until it thickens, but do not 
let it curdle, as it will if it boils for more than a second. When cool 

add 1 pint of cream, half a cup of 
sugar, a quarter of a box of gela- 
tine, dissolved and strained, half a 
teaspoonful of vanilla, a quarter of a 
teaspoonful of essence of lemon, 20 
drops of extract of bitter almond. 
Put in a mould with smooth sides 
and pack in ice and salt. The pro- 
portion is 2 quarts of broken ice to 
1 of coarse salt, well mixed. In an 
hour remove the mould, and after 
wiping it carefully uncover it, and 
with a knife scrape the frozen cream 
from the sides. Beat it thoroughly, 
as this makes the texture fine and 
smooth. If it is nearly frozen, add 
half a pound of sweet almonds, 
blanched and chopped fine, half a 
pound of candied ginger, cut in 
small pieces, and half a pound of citron prepared in the same way. 
If the cream is not very stiff return the mould to the ice, repeat the 
process in three-quarters of an hour, and add the nuts, ginger and 
citron after the second beating. 

Strawberry Ice Cream Piuldiiig-. — Whip 1 quart rich, sweet 
cream until thick, add 2 cups powdered sugar, and, lastly, stir 1 quart 
ripe strawberries through the cream ; fill this into a pudding form 
with a tube in the centre ; cover lightly, and put a strip of buttered 
paper around the edge of the cover, so that the water cannot enter, 
and pack in ice and salt ; cover with a heavy woolen cloth or blanket, 
and let stand 4 hours. When ready to serve, lift from ice, remove 




ICKS AND ICE CREAM. 519 

the paper, wipe off the form, dip it in hot water, turn the pudding 
onto a dish, and serve at once. 

Nesselrode Pudding-. — Three cups of chestnuts, shell and blanch, 
simmer until soft, drain and rub through a colander. Cut 1 pound of 
French fruit candied in small pieces and cover with half cupful sherry 
wine. (Half cupful rose-water can be substituted for the wine.) Boil 
2 cupfuls of sugar and 1 cupful of water 15 minutes. Beat into it the 
well-whipped yolks of eggs. Stir over the fire until the mixture 
thickens slightly; then remove from fire and beat until cold. Add 
the nuts and 1 pint of cream. Flavor with 1 teasponful vanilla. Put 
in freezer and work until partly frozen. Stir in the candied fruit and 
finish the freezing. Then pack the mould for 2 hours to set. 

Iced Rice Puddiug-. — This delicious pudding is made from half 
a cupful of rice, 3 eggs, 2 cupfuls of milk, half cupful of sugar, and a 
pint of whipped cream. Boil the rice until tender, putting it on to 
cook in a pint of cold water, add a pinch of salt, and when cooked 
nearly dry, put the rice in your double boiler with 2 cupfuls of milk. 
Cook until all the milk is absorbed, and then put through a sieve. 
Return the rice to the boiler, add the 3 eggs beaten until light, and 
the sugar. When cold flavor, mix thoroughly with the whipped 
cream, beating it into the rice, and freeze. 

Ices. 

Ices are generally looked upon as a somewhat expensive luxury, 
but if made according to the following directions, they can be suc- 
cessfully produced at a very small cost, and with very little trouble. 
All that is required is a zinc pail and a freezing pot ; a small biscuit 
tin or a round cocoa tin, capable of holding a pint of liquid, will 
answer the purpose very well. 

For water ices allow equal quantities of the juice of fresh fruit 
and water, which has been sweetened and colored to taste, adding a 
little lemon juice and the beaten white of an egg, to every pint of 
liquid. Care should be taken not to make any mixture to be frozen 
excessively sweet, or it will be difficult to obtain a satisfactory result; 
on the other hand, it should be sufficiently sweet, or the ice will be 
hard and rough in appearance. The ices should be served in fancy 
paper cases, placed on a small glass plate. 

A much longer time is required for freezing water ices than 



520 ICKS AND ICE CREAM. 

creams. The juice of all fruits may be used to flavor them, and whert 
they may not be obtained fresh, syrups may be substituted. Water 
ices may be moulded, if desired, as other ices. An ice is made of 
fruit juice, ice, and water. A sherbet must be beaten white. To 
make a water ice very nice, some cooks clarify the sugar. Take 
sugar and water, in the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of 
water. To make 2 quarts of water ice, take, for example, 2 pounds 
of sugar to a quart of water, adding to them about the fourth part of 
the white of an egg, well beaten up, and boil for 10 minutes. Leave 
the mixture to cool, and when it is cold put in the flavoring. 

Lemon Ice. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, and grate the 
peel of 3 of them ; also take the juice and rind of a large sweet 
orange. Let the orange and lemon peel steep in the juice 1 hour; 
then strain through a bag, squeezing the bag dry. Roil 1 pint of 
sugar and 1 pint of water together to form a .syrup ; strain ; when 
cool, stir in the other ingredients and freeze. A lemon ice can be 
made by simply making a very rich, sweet lemonade, and freezing it, 
but it is not quite so rich. 

Orange Ice. — Make as above, using fruit in the proportion of 6 
oranges to 1 lemon. 

Currant Ice. — Put a pint of sugar into a quart of boiling water, 
and boil for half an hour. Then add a pint of currant juice and the 
juice of 2 lemons. When cold, freeze. The lemon can be omitted. 

Pineapple Ice. — One can chopped pineapple, or 2 fresh pine- 
apples, grated ; add to it the juice of 2 lemons, 1}4 pounds of sugar, 
and 1 quart of water. Freeze in an ice-cream freezer. Delicious. 

Grape Water Ice. — Take a pint of grape juice, an equal measure 
of sugar, and a quart of water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water ; 
when it is cold, add the grape juice, and freeze as for other fruit ices. 

Cherry Ice. — Two cups cherry juice, a quart of water, 2 large 
cups of sugar. Mix and freeze. The ice is nicer if the sugar and 
water are first made into a syrup, and cooled before adding the fruit 
juice. To flavor, crack a number of the cherry pits and rub to a 
paste in a mortar, or some other way, and put with the cherries be- 
fore straining them. Some cooks add the juice of 1 lemon. 

Strawberry Ice. — Ripe strawberries, mashed and pounded in a 
bowl of sugar in the proportion of a pint of berries to one of sugar, 
allowed to stand, strained, mixed with a pint of ice water and the juice 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 521 

of 1 lemon, and frozen without stirring, make a delicious water ice. 
A teaspoonful of orange-flower water adds to the flavor. 

Blackberry Ice. — Make after the same rule as Strawberry Ice. 

Tapioca Ice. — One cup of tapioca soaked over night. In the 
morning put it on the stove, and, when boiling hot, add 1 cup of 
sugar, and boil till clear. Chop 1 pineapple, stir together with tapi- 
oca and put into moulds. Serve ice cold, with sugar and cream. 

Sherbets. 

Lieinoii Sherbet. — Six lemons, 4 eggs, whites of, 2 pints of sugar, 
1 pint of water. Make a thick syrup of 1 pint of sugar and 1 pint of 
water, when cold, thin with the juice of 6 lemons and enough water 
to make rich lemonade. When half frozen, add the following: Take 
the remaining pint of sugar, moistened with water, boiled into very 
soft candy ; while hot, add the stififly beaten whites of the 4 eggs, 
flavor with vanilla, add a little cream of tartar, beat hard until thick 
and add to the half-frozen lemonade. The result will be found to be 
a most delicious sherbet. 

liemon Sherbet — II. Sometimes lemon jelly made with gela- 
tine will not solidify. In such a case, add 2 stiff whites of eggs and 
a little sugar to a quart of the jelly, and freeze it as lemon ice. It 
will be found to be delicious, and that the egg removes the coarse, 
snowy taste of the average water ice. A lemon sherbet is some- 
times made like lemon jelly with gelatine and frozen. 

Strawberry Sherbet. — Mash 2 quarts of strawberries with 2 
pounds of sugar, and let the mixture stand an hour or more. Squeeze 
in a straining cloth, pressing out all the juice. Add an equal mea- 
sure of water, and when half frozen add the beaten whites of eggs in 
the proportion of 3 eggs to a quart. 

Orangre Sherbet. — Grate the rinds of 4 oranges and steep them 
10 minutes in a pint of water. Strain this upon 1 pound of sugar, 
add a pint of orange juice, and when cold pour into the freezer. 
When half frozen add the whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 
The juice of 1 lemon will assist the flavor. 

Apricot Sherbet. — Three cupfuls of apricots, cut fine ; 1 cupful 
sugar ; 2 cupfuls water ; kernels of one-half the apricots ; 2 whites of 
eggs. If the fresh fruit be used, reserve 1 cupful of the ripest. Stew 
the other 2 cupfuls with the kernels in the water and sugar 5 minutes. 



r>2'2 Ices and ice cream. 

Rub the fruit through a strainer, with the syrup ; pour into the 
freezer. Wlien nearly frozen, add the whites of 2 eggs, Well beaten, 
and turn the freezer a few minutes longer. Stir in the cut apricots 
just before serving. Canned apricots can be used, and if in syrup 
that can be added also. 

Pineapple Sherbet. — Pare and grate 2 large pineapples, or use 1 
can, which cut in small dice, and use the syrup. Place 1 quart of 
water, with 1 ^ pounds of sugar, over the fire to boil. Boil 5 minutes. 
When cold add juice of 2 good-sized lemons and the grated pineapple. 
Turn into the freezer and stir until frozen. Beat the white of 1 egg 
to a stiff froth, add to it 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar; beat again. 
Remove the dasher, stir in the egg, and repack. Stand aside for 2 
hours to ripen. 

Grape Sherbet. — Put in a saucepan half a pound of granulated 
sugar and 1 quart of water. Let it boil a few moments ; take from 
the fire and add the juice of 1 lemon and a tablespoonful of gelatine 
that has been dissolved in a gill of water. When cool, add a half 
pint of juice from any dark, rich grape, and turn into a freezer and 
freeze. When frozen, and before you remove the beater, add the 
white of an egg beaten to a froth, with 1 tablespoonful of powdered 
sugar. Stir thoroughly into the sherbet, cover and repack, and stand 
in a cool place for 2 hours. 

Milk Sherbet. — Squeeze 3 large lemons or 4 small ones, and to 
the juice add 2 cups of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of lemon essence; 
then put in 1 quart of milk and freeze. This is considered delicious. 

Sorbets. 

Sorbets are merely a variation of water ices, secured by adding 
various wines and liquors to the original water ice. A ver}' colorable 
imitation, in these days when so many people deprecate the use of 
much strong liquor, is to use the liqueur syrups, which contain no alco- 
hol, or else to substitute the lighter "granito," which abroad is used at 
any time of the day to quench thirst. Of course these are, strictly 
speaking, not "sorbets" at all, as this word has come to signify a 
water ice strongly fortified with alcohol, but at the same time they are 
much more like the original " sherbet," and are very tempting. Sor- 
bets may be served in old-fashioned wineglasses. Venetian glass china 
cups, or plain Nuremberg beakers, as may be most convenient. 



ICES AND ICE CREAM. 523 

Sorbets are always nicer if garnished with fresh fruit correspond- 
ing to or contrasting with the fruit used in the sorbet itself; and this 
fruit should always be, so to speak, marinaded with either wine, spirit, 
lemon juice, liqueur or liqueur syrup, and caster sugar, and set either 
in the ice cave or in ice for an hour or so before using. 

Banana Sorbet. — Banana sorbet is a most palatable ice. Peel 
and pound half a dozen ripe bananas and add a teacupful of loaf sugar, 
the juice of a lemon, and a pint of water. Half freeze and add a wine- 
glass of any liquor before completing the process. It is never pos- 
sible to freeze sorbets as firm as plain water ices. The spirits prevent 
complete congealing. 

Sorbet tie Raisin au Xeres. — To a pint of lemon water ice add 
a wineglassful of elderflower water and 2 good wineglassfuls of sherry. 

Punch Sonffle a la Francaise. — Pour a pint of perfectly boiling 
water on 2 ounces of good tea, and let it infuse for 5 minutes ; then 
strain it off, and let it get cool. Whip 4 raw yolks of eggs for 5 min- 
utes with 3 ounces of sugar, the strained juice of 1 large or 2 small 
lemons, and a spoonful or so of arrack or good rum, and to this add 
the cold tea, gradually whipping it all the time ; then strain it, add to 
it half a pint of very thick and stiffly whipped cream, put it into a 
ready-papered souffle mould, and freeze in the charged ice cave for 2 
or 3 hours. The great point to observe in making this punch is to 
have the tea good, and to be particular as to the water, which must 
be freshly boiled, and just boiling when poured on to the tea leaves. 
This is scarcely a sorbet, but it is nevertheless a form of punch which 
has met with much success. There is also a form of sorbet, or rather 
of water ice, much liked in Italy, called a " granito," a water ice com- 
posed of plain sugar and water syrup, and fruit or wine, but not spirit. 

Wild Cherry and Almond Sorbet. — One quart water, 1 pint 
white sugar, juice of 1 lemon, 6 sweet almonds, blanched and pound- 
ed ; 1 bitter almond, a wineglassful of wild cherry syrup. Freeze in 
a freezer ; when half frozen, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Serve 
in glass cups. The yolks of the eggs can be used in the mayonnaise 
dressing for the celery salad. 

There are only a few of these sorbets given, since it is not the 
purpose of this book to give recipes that make use of wine in their 
composition. 




Coffee. — The best coffee will be found to be 
a mixture of two-thirds Java with one-third 
Mocha. Buy ready roasted unless you own a 
rotary roaster ; keep in an air-tight jar, and 
grind only as required. When eggs are plen- 
tiful and cheap save all the shells ; when they 
have accumulated, crush them very fine and dry 

them. Beat half a dozen eggs and stir the shells 

" into the mixture ; spread and dry quickly. Put 

into a thin muslin bag and hang near the fire, to keep the contents 
dry. When eggs are high or scarce, a tablespoonful of this mixture, 
soaked in cold water several hours, will settle coffee as well as a 
whole egg. Heat dry coffee before pouring on the water. Put the 
ground coffee in the pot, and then shake it about on the stove until 
thoroughly heated, and then pour on the boiling water. In this way 
the heated ground coffee imparts to the fluid an extra pungency of 
flavor and richness. Tea or chocolate should never be served with 
fried foods. Always serve coffee with fried oysters, fish, or lobsters, 
also with cheese. Milk which has changed may be rendered fit for 
use again by stirring in a little soda. 

How to detect Cliickory in Grouud Coffee. — Shake a spoonful 
of coffee with a wineglass of cold water, and then place the glass on 
the table. If the coffee is pure, it will rise to the surface and scarcely 
color the liquid ; but if not, it will sink to the bottom and the water 
will be tinged red. 

The art of "Pouring"." — Few hostesses understand the art of 
pouring tea and coffee, simple as it appears. As a rule, the guest of 
honor is offered the first cup, which is the weakest, and the children, 
if served at all, are given the last and strongest. When it is desirable 
to have all the cups of uniform strength, one should pour a little into 
each, and then begin over again, reversing the order. In England 
this is so well understood that a pourer of tea or coffee does not 
begin to replenish the cups till all are before her. 

Dripped Coffee — An ideal cup of coffee can, it is said, be made 
only in one way. The coffee must be of the best quality, roasted, 
524 



TABLE DRINKS. 



525 



ground immediately, and used as quickly as possible. The best kind 
of coffee-pot is one that has a filter. They can be had of many sizes 
and shapes, all the way from simplicity to an extreme of elegance. 
To secure a good infusion quickly, the ground coffee should be 
placed in the cylinder on top of the coffee-pot, the strainer should be 
pressed down on top of the coffee, and the boiling water should be 
poured over so that the infusion runs slowly. While it filters, the 
pot ought to stand in a vessel containing very hot water, so that the 
infusion may keep a high degree of heat without allowing it to boil. 
Boiling is the spoiling of coffee. Have ready the cups, heated by 
pouring boiling water in them ; put in the required quantity of cream 
and sugar, then fill up with the distilled nectar from the coffee-pot, 
and one has a beverage that is a revelation. 




Steamed Coffee. — Put the required amount of coffee and water 
in the coffee-pot. Set this in a kettle of boiling water. Let it boil 
half an hour or longer. The coffee will need no settling, and will be 
clear as crystal ; or, a tin inside may be made for the coffee-pot, after 
the style of a dripper, only without the perforations, and somewhat 
deeper. Put 4 or 5 inches of water in the coffee-pot. Hang the inner 
compartment inside, and in this put the coffee and water. Let boil. 
This is one of the best ways known for preparing coffee, and also an 
economical one as stronger coffee can be made from a less amount 
than in any other way. 



526 TABLE DRINKS. 

Boiled Coffee. — One tablespoonful for each person to be served, 
and 1 for the pot. Put the coffee in the pot with part of an egg, unless 
already prepared as above given ; pour over it 1 cupful cold water, and 
let steep. When the water in the kettle boils add the necessary 
amount, and let boil 5 minutes. Pour out half a cupful before serv- 
ing, to clear the strainer. This (if no other precaution is used), 
turned back into the can from a little distance above it, will usually 
clear the coffee thoroughly. To retain the aroma while boiling, close 
up the spout. 

Mering-uetl Coffee. — Make the coffee the usual way. Put into 
each cup the desired amount of sugar and a tablespoon boiling milk. 
Make a meringue by mixing the white of an egg, well beaten, with 
one-half pint of whipped cream. Lay a heaping spoonful upon the 
top of each cup before serving. 

Sweet Corn Coffee. — Try it for the sick ones. Take nice sweet 
corn, fan out all the hulls and silk, roast it in the oven ; do not let it 

burn, but keep watch of it, 
/^ ^'-^ i-rrga'^** ^^^ have it a rich brown ; 

\^ __^ ^^^"i^ pound it or grind it. Take 

2 tablespoonfuls to a little 
water, let it steep a {cvi min- 
utes, strain, serve with cream 
Tea or Coffee Strainer. and sugar, or take it clear. 

It is very nice, and is considered palatable by most coffee drinkers. 

Cafe-au-Lait. — Prepare 1 quart of strong, hot coffee in any pre- 
ferred manner. Strain into a hot coffee-pot. Add an equal amount 
of boiling milk. Cover closely with a thick cloth for 5 minutes 
before serving. Whip the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth. Sweeten 
to the taste, and put 1 large spoonful of this in each cup. Cafe-mi- 
lait may be made without this last addition. 

Substitute for Cream. — Beat up a fresh egg in a basin and then 
pour boiling tea over it gradually, stirring constantly to prevent curd- 
ling. Make it the consistency of thick cream. Or, boil milk in a 
double boiler until it thickens ; the beaten yolk of an ttgg is an addi- 
tion. 

Iced. Coffee. — Take strong coffee, one-half the amount of milk, 
a generous seasoning of cream, and sweeten to taste. Put in a refrig- 
erator directly on the ice until thoroughly chilled. 




TABLE DRINKS. 



527 



Creamed Coffee. — To 5 cups of good clear coffee add 1 cup of 
cream and bring to boil. 

Eg-g' Coffee. — A novel drink for the breakfast on a hot morning is 
" egg coffee," which, with bread and fruit to make up the necessary bulk 
for the stomach, has been found an 
excellent repast. If the coffee is to 
be served cold, shake an egg, some 
bits of sugar and ice together, then 
add cold cafe-aii-lait. If hot liquid 
is used, put the ^^^, cream and sugar 
in a glass, and shake thoroughl}% 
then add the hot coffee, stirring 
quickly all the time. 

Cafe a la Deliiionico. — This is 
a delicious luncheon, or " high tea," 
drink. To the making of it goes the 
tall glass of splintered ice, the pow- 
dered sugar, the hot coffee, which is 
cold by the time it gets to the bot- 
tom of the glass, and, to top off, a 
generous spoonful of stiffly whipped 
cream. This is to be stirred into 
the coffee as it is drunken. The flavor is exquisite. 

Syrup of Coffee. — Syrup of coffee is useful for those who wish 
to take coffee with them on a journey in as small a quantity as possi- 
ble. Make it thus : Take a pound of best freshly-ground coffee and 
place it in a saucepan with 5 pints of water and boil it down to 1 
pint. Strain the liquor, and when it is nearly cold place it in another 
saucepan to boil again. As it boils add sufficient loaf sugar to make 
it of the consistency of syrup. Let the sugar thoroughly dissolve, 
then boil up, take it from the fire, and when cold bottle and seal it. 
When required for use place a teaspoonful of the coffee in a breakfast 
cupful of boiling water or milk, whichever is preferred. 

Tea. 

Although the process of making this favorite beverage is exceed- 
ingly simple, there is really no article of daily consumption which 
meets with greater failure in the preparation. The very best quality 




^m 



Tea Kettle. 



628 



TABLE DRINKS. 



should always be procured ; one should never begrudge the money 
which is spent in such a cause of health and pleasure. The water 
with which the tea is to be made should be freshly drawn from the 




Five O'clock Tea. 

faucet, and put into a kettle which is perfectly clean. The water 
should then be brought quickly to boiling point, for long simmering 
makes it flat and lifeless, and it should not be allowed to boil longer 
than 5 minutes before being used for this purpose, for, in this way, 



TABLE DRINKS. 529 

through long boiling, the water loses most of its gas. Tea should 
7ievcr be boiled. After tea stands a while, the tannic acid which it 
contains develops and makes it bitter. The tea-pot should always be 
thoroughly cleansed after being used and carefully put away. An 
earthenware or china tea-pot should always be used; a tin one should 
never, on any account, be employed, for if the tea is left standing in 
it for any length of time it becomes absolutely poisonous and unfit 
for use. The Chinese never use milk or sugar. To do so spoils the 
flavor of the tea. Keep tea in little caddies with closely-fitting covers 
to keep the flavor. 

A Cup of Good Tea. — A mixed tea is preferred by most tastes. 
A good mixture is one- third black and two-thirds green. Some pre- 
fer half-and-half If strong tea is desired, use 1 teaspoonful for each 
person. Otherwise less may be used. Some teas require to be 
steeped much longer than others, in order to properly extract their 
flavor and strength, but this can only be learned by experience. The 
tea-pot should be well scalded by rinsing it out with boiling water, 
then, while it is still hot, the necessary amount of tea should be placed 
therein, and a sufficient quantity of the boiling water should be added 
to thoroughly saturate it. This should be left under a tea-cosy or 
upon the back of the stove to steep for about 5 minutes, after which 
time the required quantity of boiling water should be poured in and 
the tea should be served at once. Count the water by cupfuls until 
the capacity of the tea-pot is ascertained. 

This beverage should be made just before wanted for the table 
and should be used at once. A very excellent plan adopted by many 
English families is to have the tea brewed upon the table. A 
silver kettle of water should be placed upon the table in the dining- 
room, brought to the boiling point by means of a small alcohol lamp 
which is attached to the kettle beneath. The steeping is then accom- 
plished by means of a tea-cosy, or a turned-down flame of the spirit 
lamp. Tea, especially at receptions and afternoon teas, is made thus, 
or in the cups themselves. A silver tea ball, under these circum- 
stances, does away with the tea leaves in the cup. English breakfast 
tea (black) requires 10 minutes to steep. If black tea should chance 
to boil, it is not ruined in flavor like green tea. If the tea should 
happen to be too strong, weaken by the addition of a little boiling 
water. 
34 



530 TABLE DRINKS. 

Kiissian Tea. — Russian tea is so much more refreshing, as well 
as so much more appetizing, to most palates, than the average bever- 
age offered at 5 o'clock, that one wonders that it is not oftener 
met with. It need not contain the often-added drop of cordial; but a 
slice of lemon alone, without any cream and preferably no sugar, 
gives a very ])iquant flavor to what, to the American taste, is rather 
an insipid drink. 

Tea Punch, a la Riisse. — The ingredients are enough finely 
cracked ice to two-thirds fill a tall glass, as much powdered sugar as 
one woukl drink in a glass that size of any tea, plus an extra spoon- 
ful to offset the lemon juice, which goes next. Over this pour the 
tea. This should be freshly made and preferably hot. It gets cold 
by the time the glass is filled, percolating over the ice, and a whip or 
two of a mixing spoon will finish off the mixture to the taste of all 
the gods that like a tea flavor. There is less tannic acid by using 
boiling tea than by first allowing the tea to cool. 

Iced Tea. — Iced tea can be made from either green or black tea, 
but a mixture of the two is an improvement on either of them 
alone. Prepare the tea in the morning, making it stronger than usual. 
It is better not to sweeten until you have learned the tastes of the 
guests. Strain and pour into a stone jug or glass bottle, and place in 
the ice-chest until ready to serve. Pour it in goblets and never use 
cream. Serve the ice cracked on plates garnished with well-washed 
fruit leaves. Slice of lemon can be put in each glass. 

Chocolate. 

For those who wish to keep the imagination fresh and vigorous, 
chocolate is the beverage of beverages. However copiousl)^ you 
have lunched, a cup of chocolate immediately afterward will pro- 
duce digestion three hours after and prepare the way for a good 
dinner. It is recommended to every one who devotes to brain work 
the hours he should pass in bed. The merest dash of cinnamon in a 
cup of chocolate, after it is poured, is said to add a piquant and un- 
distinguishable flavor. 

Cliocolate (Plain). — Put into a covered pot, set in boiling water, 
I quart of new milk ; stir into it 3 heaping tablespoonfuls grated 
chocolate mixed to a paste with cold milk; let it boil 5 minutes, 
stirring, and serve at once. To make good chocolate^ of course good 



TABLE DRINKS. 



531 



materials are required. If it is not wanted so rich, use milk and 
water, half-and-half. Take off the scum that rises, and serve with 
sugar and cream. You can cook either cocoa or chocolate practically 
forever in water only, provided that you do not put in the boiling milk 
until 5 minutes before you want to serve it. Take out as much as you 
want to add the milk to, and let the remainder simmer in water over 
the fire until wanted again. This is very convenient where the family 
cannot all be served at once. 
Hot crackers, or cheese crack- 
ers, are very nice to serve 
with it. 

Vienna Chocolate. — One 
quart of milk, 3 heaping table- 
spoonfuls of grated chocolate, 
rubbed smooth in a little cold 
water. Allow the milk to come 
to a boil, put in the chocolate 
and boil about 5 minutes, or 
until of desired thickness. After 
removing it from the fire sea- 
son with the essence of vanilla 
according to taste. The choco- 
late should then be poured into 
dainty cups while still in the kitchen, and served quickly and steam- 
ing hot. Fill the cups two-thirds full with the delicious brown mix- 
ture and add thick beaten cream. This addition constitutes the 
making of the famous Vienna chocolate. Boil in a double boiler, or 
stir constantly while boiling. 

Cocoa. — Dissolve 1 teaspoon heaping full of cocoa in half a cup- 
ful of boiling water; when mixed, add a cupful of hot milk, stir until 
it boils well, and serve at once, sweetened to taste. In making cocoa, 
it will be found much more delicious if a little flavoring is added to 
that already in the stuff, as prepared at the manufactory. 

Icetl Cocoa. — Put 1 heaping teaspoonful of cocoa to each half 
pint of boiling water in a double boiler; mix, an^ cook for 5 minutes 
and sweeten. Take from fire, and when cold add half a cup of good 
cream. Beat the whole until Hght. Fill the glasses half full of 
cracked ice, pour in the cocoa, and serve. 




632 TABLE DRINKS. 

Lemonade. 

Liemonade (Plain). — Grate the yellow rind from the lemons. 
Roll until soft. Peel off the bitter white rind of the lemon, cut in 
two, and squeeze with a lemon squeezer. Drop the pulp and grated 
rind in the pitcher with the juice. One large lemon, or 2 small ones 
will make 4 small glasses oflemonade. Stir in 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, and pour in 4 glasses of water. Stir and add cracked ice, 
or set on ice for half an hour. It is nicer strained before serving. 
A circular slice of lemon in each glass adds to the appearance. 

Lemonade has more "body" if the sugar used in sweetening is 
reduced to a syrup before adding to the lemonade. Take half pound 
of sugar and boil it with 1 pint of water, and the lemon rinds, to a 
syrup. Remove the rinds before using to sweeten. 

Boiled Lemonade. — The best authorities teach that lemonade 
made with boiling water is much more delicious than an ordinary 
cold water lemonade. Wash and wipe a lemon carefully. Cut a slice 
or two from the centre of the lemon, and squeeze the remainder with 
a powerful lemon-squeezer, so as to extract a little of the essential oil 
of the skin. Add sugar enough to sweeten, and pour half a pint of 
freshly boiled water over it. When perfectly ice-cold, serve it with a 
little cracked ice in the bottom of the glass, and a slice of lemon 
floating on the top. The proportions are, 4 lemons, half pound loaf 
sugar, 3 pints boiling water, for a larger quantity. Rub the lumps 
over the rind of lemons to extract the oil, press out juice, add boiling 
water, cool, and put in ice-box. 

Eg-g- Lemonade. — Egg lemonade is a delicious drink. Take 2 
fresh eggs and beat the whites and yolks, separately, until as light as 
possible. To half a pint of boiling water add the juice of 2 large 
lemons and half a cupful of sugar. Stir until it is dissolved, and add 
quickly a pint of ice broken very fine. Mix the whites and yolks of 
the eggs well in one vessel, raise the lemonade well above them, and 
pour it in ; turn quickly into another pitcher, and back again into the 
first. When well mixed, serve at once. A quicker way is to add a 
fresh, lightly beaten egg to a glass of strong lemonade. A nourish- 
ing drink for a convalescent. 

Milk Lemonade. — Squeeze the juice of a nice fresh lemon into 
a glass, remove all of the seeds, and add sugar to taste, I use 2 level 



TABLE DRINKS. 533 

tablespoonfuls of sugar. Have in another glass some fresh sweet 
milk with plenty of ice in it ; pour this cold milk on the sweetened 
lemon juice, stirring to prevent curdling. Then place one glass over 
the other and shake briskly until it foams. A most refreshing, deli- 
cious drink. 

Pineapple Lemonade. — " Pineapple lemonade is a most delight- 
ful and refreshing summer drink. To make a good lemonade, make 
a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and 1^ cups of water. Prepare the 
pineapple by grating, paring and removing the seeds. Add to it the 
juice of 3 lemons and the hot syrup. When cool mix with 2 cups of 
water, ice, and serve, and you have a drink fit for the gods." 

Fruit Lenionade. — Fruit lemon^ide is a great improvement over 
plain lemonade, and is made by adding the juice of 2 oranges and a 
half pint of strawberries to every half dozen lemons. First roll the 
lemons and carefully scrape off any small black specks that may ap- 
pear upon the surface ; then, with a sharp knife, slice them thin, taking 
pains to remove the seeds. Place the lemons in a pitcher from which 
the drink is to be served, and pour a cupful of granulated sugar over 
them. Then, with a wooden pestle, mash the lemons well, and add 
the other fruit juice. Heap a pint of chopped ice over all and allow 
it to stand a few moments before adding the water and remainder of 
sugar. This receipt should make fully 3 pints of finely-flavored lem- 
onade. The amount of sugar required must depend upon the acidity 
of the fruit. When strawberries are not in season, blood oranges may 
be substituted, and the flavor will be enhanced by the addition of 
small cubes of pineapple. 

Orangeade. — Slice 2 oranges and 1 lemon ; pour over them 1 
quart of boiling water, sweeten to taste. Place on ice to cool. This 
is delicious. 

Ging-erade. — Half a cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teaspoon- 
fuls of ginger. Stir thoroughly ; put in a quart pitcher and fill with 
ice water. 

Ging-er Beer. — A glass of home-made ginger beer, with a lump 
of ice in it, is always a pleasant drink on a hot day. Take a deep 
earthenware kettle, slice 4 lemons, place them in the kettle, add \yi 
pounds of loaf sugar, and 1^ ounces of root-ginger, slightly bruised, 
Pour over these ingredients 2 gallons of boiling water, and when 
nearly cold pour in a dessertspoonful of fresh brewers' yeast. Cover 



534 TABLE DRINKS. 

this with a thin cloth, and let the mixture stand for 24 hours. Strain 
and bottle it, and place in a cool cellar. Where lemons are not at 
hand, 1 tablespoonful of citric acid and 1 teaspoonful of essence of 
lemon can be used in place of each lemon. 

Ging-erette. — Put 2 gallons of water, 8 sliced lemons, seeds re- 
moved, and 2 ounces of bruised ginger-root in a porcelain kettle and 
boil 10 minutes. While this is boiling, put 4 pounds of granulated 
sugar in 2 gallons of cold water ; add 1 ounce of cream of tartar, and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. Turn all in a large stone crock or 
jar, mix well and add three-fourths cup of yeast. Let it stand over 
night, and bottle after straining. Healthful, cooling and refreshing. 

Hop Beer. — Boil 1 teacup of loose hops, strain over 1 teaspoon- 
ful ginger, and 1 teacup of molasses; add water until lukewarm ; dis- 
solve 1 yeast-cake and add. Put into a gallon jug and fill with luke- 
warm water. (The yeast must not be scalded.) Set in tin pan and 
pour boiling water round it and let work over night. When worked, 
cork and set in cool place. 

Root Beer. — For each gallon of water to be used, take hops, bur- 
dock, yellow dock, sarsaparilla, dandelion, and spikenard roots, 
bruised, of each one-half ounce. Boil about 20 minutes and strain ; 
while hot add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sassafras mixed in 
equal portions ; when cool enough not to scald your hand, strain and 
add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast ; molasses, two-thirds of a pint ; 
or sugar, one-half pound, gives it about the right sweetness. Keep 
these proportions for as many gallons as wished. After all is mixed 
let it stand in a jar with a cloth thrown over it, to work about 2 
hours, then bottle and set in a cool place. In about 3 days it will be 
ready for use. Excellent and wholesome. Beer bottles with patent 
corks are best for bottling all these home-made beers. 

Spruce Beer. — Put a quart of molasses in a saucepan, with a gal- 
lon of water and half an ounce each of white ginger-root and sassa- 
fras. Set over the fire and let simmer for 2^ hours, strain into a 
large stone jar, add 1}4 gallons more water. When lukewarm, stir 
in half a yeast cake, cover, and set in a warm place for 8 hours. 
Bottle, add 10 raisins to each bottle, cork securely, and set on ice for 
3 days, when the beer is ready for use. 

Koumis, or Milk Beer. — Take 3 quarts of fresh, rich milk, 3 
of hot water, half pound of white sugar, and 1 teacup of good yeast; 



TABLE DRINKS. 



535 



dissolve the sugar in the water, add to the milk, let the mixture cool 
till lukewarm, and then add the yeast ; set the whole in a warm place, 
as you would for bread to rise, stirring it every 20 minutes, and in 5 or 
6 hours it will be slightly sparkling, and small bubbles will rise to 
the surface when stirred. Now put into very stout bottles, tie down 
corks and set the bottles in a cool place. A thick mass of casein will 
fjrm on the surface, and when it begins to separate, twice a day for 
several days shake the bottle, and this will fall in a powder to the 
bottom. When 2 days old it is ready for use, and it will keep a 
week, but is best when from 2 to 4 days old. It is highly efferves- 
cent, and a champagne top should be used in the bottle. Turn the 




mouth into a pitcher, covering the pitcher with a cloth, and let the 
liquid out very carefully. It should properly be used 3 times a day, 
a glass before each meal. In starting a new lot, instead of yeast use 
a bottle of old koumis. If there be too much alcohol generated, put 
in less sugar. This is recommended for a weak stomach, and is 
healthful for young children. 

Raspberry Cordial. — Real raspberry cordial is prepared by 
mashing 4 quarts of ripe berries in a stone jar, with 1 pound of white 
sugar. Pour over'them 1 quart of the best cider vinegar, and set the 
jar in the hot sunshine for 4 hours, after which the mixture is 
strained, bottled and sealed. Lay the bottles on their sides in a cool 



636 Table drinks. 

cellar, and for drinking mix in the proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to 
a tumbler of iced water. 

Raspberry Vinegar. — To 4 quarts of red raspberries put vinegar 
enough to cover, and let stand 24 hours. Scald and strain it, add 1 
pound of sugar to 1 pint of juice, boil it 20 minutes and bottle. It 
will keep for years. To 1 glass of water add a great spoonful. A 
most refreshing drink for the sick. 

Strawberry Vinegar. — Make in the same manner as Raspberry 
Vinegar. Currant Vinegar may also be made in the same way. 

Currant Sliriib. — Pick thoroughly ripe currants, not overripe, or 
the shrub will have a purple color. Strain through a flannel bag or 
other heavy cloth. Take a pint of currant juice, add to this some 
block or granulated sugar, and let it stand in the ice-chest until ready 
for use. Pour some in a glass and add water to suit the taste. The 
currant and sugar can stand on the ice for 24 hours, then make fresh. 
Red raspberries can be used in the same way, only add a very little 
currant juice to give it character. 

Fruit Sherbet. — Fruit sherbets can easily be made at home, and 
they are quite as good as those sold at the confectioner's. Mash any 
ripe fruit, and pass it through a coarse sieve and then through a fine 
sieve. To every quart of juice add a quart of water and sweeten 
with powdered sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, strain again and 
keep in ice-box till wanted. 

Fruit Syrups. — With a good supply of syrups, which should 
occupy a conspicuous place in every cooling-room, many refreshing 
and pleasant drinks can be quickly mixed. Syrups made at home 
from the best and freshest fruit are much better than most that can be 
got from the chemists. Cordials that are on sale rarely contain any 
genuine fruit juice. The best receptacles for the fruits and juices 
during the different processes to which they must be submitted are 
those made of stone and granite ware. Tin vessels not only discolor 
the syrup, but will often impart an unpleasant taste. 

A refreshing drink, quickly made, is that evolved by putting into 
a tumbler a liberal tablespoonful of almost any kind of syrup — pine- 
apple is always successful — a tablespoonful of thick cream, and then 
filling the glass from a syphon of iced soda-water. This is a drink 
particularly suitable for garden and tennis parties. Straws should be 
furnished for such drinks as contain cracked ice and fruit slices. A 



TABLE DRINKS. 537 

delicious beverage can be made by taking 3 bananas and rubbing 
them through a sieve; add the juice of one lemon. Pour over the 
pulp a half-pint of boiling water. When cold, stir it well, sweeten 
and strain. Then add a bottle of soda-water and cracked ice. 

Delicious fruit syrups which ought to be kept on hand for these 
drinks are only the fruit juices impregnated with a sufficient quantity 
of sugar to preserve them and retain them in the fluid state. A sure 
way to prepare a good syrup is to use powdered loaf sugar, mixing 
it thoroughly with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. The 
dish should be placed in a pan of boiling water, and thus the small 
particles of sugar become dissolved without any risk of burning. 

Beverages concocted by the use of syrups are the most popular, 
and the syrups that should ever be kept on hand are spiced black- 
berry, raspberry, orange, quince, apple and peach, syrup of orange 
peel, strawberry, pineapple, pear, cherry, lemon, essence of lemon or 
orange, and mixed syrup. This latter syrup, of excellent flavor, may 
be made by mixing two different fruits together, as raspberry, red or 
black, and currants, or raspberries with cherries. Lemon juice may 
be added to apple, and pineapple is a fine addition to any of the fruit, 
but is rather expensive for liberal use. 

Currant Syrup. — Take 3 pounds of red and 3 pounds of white 
currants; 1 pound of cherries or 1 pound of raspberries would be an 
improvement, but they can be dispensed with; bruise the fruit slightly 
and put it into an earthen jar; cover this closely, put it into a sauce- 
pan of cold water and let the fruit simmer gently until the juice flows 
freely; strain and leave until the next day in a cool place. Pour off 
the juice, weigh, and add an equal weight of sugar. Let simmer, 
and stir frequently, but do not let it boil. Skim carefully, and then 
put in an earthen jar to cool. Li I2 hours it maybe put into a 
small-sized dry bottle, corked and sealed, and stored in a cool but 
dry place. When mixed with cold water it makes a refreshing sum- 
mer drink, and is especially suited to invalids. 

Cherry Water. — Bruise and rub through a hair-sieve enough 
ripe cherries to produce a pint of juice. Add to this a pound of 
pulverized sugar, a quart of water and sufficient ice to cool. 

Cranberry "Water. — Boil cranberries with half their weight in 
sugar, and half their measure of water; simmer half an hour and 
strain through a jelly-bag. Cool and drink with cracked ice. 



538 TABLE DRINKS. 

Fruit Punches (Temperance). 

Pineapple Punch. — Tineapplc punch for a summer drink : The 
juice of 6 oranges and 6 lemons, sugar to taste, adding, to chopped 
ice, some sHced pineapple, and pouring over it 2 quarts of water. 

Orange Punch. — The following recipe is given for a fruit drink 
suitable for a luncheon : It is made from orange juice, and is pro- 
nounced a very pleasant drink. The juice is served in tall glasses, 
and is undiluted. Into each glass are dropped 4 slices of banana, a 
Tokay grape cut and seeded, a slice from a tart apple and a pinch of 
sugar. The drink, of course, is intended to be sipped through the 
courses, and may be the only one served. 

Lemon Punch. — Put 1 pound of sugar and 1 quart of water over 
the fire to boil. When boiling begins, add the grated rind of 1 lemon. 
Continue boiling 15 minutes, and then set it away to cool. Add the 
juice of 4 lemons and 3 oranges. Ice and serve. 

Fi'uit Punch — Put 1 pint of water, 1 pound of sugar, and chip- 
ped yellow rind of a lemon on to boil. Boil 5 minutes after it begins 
to boil. Strain, and while hot add 1 banana sliced, 1 pineapple grated, 
and quarter pound of stoned cherries. When ready to serve, add 
juice of 8 lemon."^. Pour it in a punch bowl, place in the centre a 
large piece of ice and pour in 2 quarts of apollinaris, mix and serve. 
A dozen strawberries may be sliced in at the last moment. 

Soda Water. — The soda water that is best and purest is that 
which is made at home, and here is the formula for it : Simple syrup, 
12 ounces; flavor, 5 ounces of any good fruit juice; citric acid, 1 
ounce. To serve put 1 ounce of syrup in an ordinary tumbler and 
fill two-thirds with water. Then add a small amount of bicarbonate 
of soda on the end of a spoon. Stir rapidly and drink. 

Soda Water Powders. — Have put in blue paper 30 grains of car- 
bonate of soda, in white paper 25 grains of tartaric acid. Dissolve 
the soda powder in half a glass of water and .stir into it the acid, and 
drink while effervescing. If you desire syrup, make it out of sugar 
boiled in water, and flavor as you like. Dissolve the soda in the 
.syrup. Excellent to allay thirst in warm weather. 

31^,^(1. — One quart of boiling water, one-half pint of molasses, 2j{ 
pounds of brown sugar, one-half ounce of flavoring extract, 2 ounces 
of tartaric acid. Put the water, sugar, molasses and acid together, 



TABLE DRINKS. 



539 



and when the mixture is cold add the extract, which may be the 
essence of wintergreen or sassafras, or any other kind used for such 
a purpose. Bottle, and set away in a cold place. To make the 
mead, place 2 tablespoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of ice water, stir 
until well mixed, and add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate 
of soda to render the drink effervescent. 

Sterilizing- Milk. — Provide 6 or 8 half-pint bottles, according 
to the number of times the child is fed during the 24 hours. Put 
the proper amount of food for 
one feeding in each bottle, and 
use a tuft of cotton batting as a 
stopper. Have a saucepan that 
the bottles can stand in conve- 
niently. Invert a perforated tin 
pie plate in the bottom, and put 
in enough water to come above 
the milk in the bottles. Stand 
the bottles on it ; when the water 
boils draw the saucepan to a 
cooler part of the stove, where 
the water will remain near the 
boiling point, but not actually 
boiling. Cover the saucepan, and 
let the bottles remain in it 1 hour, 
cool place in winter. 

Sarsaparilla Mead. — Boil a quarter of a pound of Spanish sarsa- 
parilla in water for 5 hours, keep enough water on it so that when it 
is strained off there will be a quart of the liquid, after straining add 
to this quart of liquid of sarsaparilla 4 pounds of granulated sugar 
and 2 ounces of tartaric acid. Allow a wineglassful of this prepara- 
tion and half a teaspoonful of soda to half a pint of water. 

Chanipag-ne Cider. — Get the best apple cider and freeze it. Draw 
out the cider, put into the bottles, boil the corks, which must be good 
ones, and drive the soft corks down in the bottles, and in a (ew 
days (weeks or months are better) you will have a fine, sparkling 
champagne. 

Sweet Cider (to Keep). — Let sweet cider be heated carefully 
up to boiling point. Skim and seal up. The best way to heat it is 




Put them in the ice-box, or a 



540 TABLE DRINKS. 

to put it in a glazed jug. Set the jug in boiling water and keep it 
there until the cider comes to a boiling point. Then remove, cork 
the jug and seal it. 

Sweet Cider (to Keep). — II. When new cider is beginning to 
ferment, add to it (mixing thoroughly) 1 pound of granulated sugar 
to every gallon of cider. The sugar arrests fermentation. Keep the 
cask in a cool place, and use as required. It has been kept perfectly 
sweet in this manner for two years. 

Cold Milk Shake. — Take a pint of fresh milk that has not been 
skimmed, a few drops of your favorite essence, a tablespoonful of 
sugar, and mix them thoroughly and put in a quart pitcher with half a 
pint of pounded ice. Take your egg-beater, one that turns on a 
crank, and beat the mixture for a moment, stirring briskly. It will 
foam to the top of the pitcher in no time, and when it does, it is ready 
to drink. It is delicious. 

Oatmeal Harvest Drink. — Stir a pint of oatmeal into a pail of 
ice water. Nobody seems to be able to tell the peculiar properties 
of oatmeal as a drink, but that it is a great cooler and a pleasant 
stimulant there is no doubt. 

Some Medicinal Liquors. 

Spiced Blackberry Brandy. — One gallon brandy or whiskey, 2 
boxes fresh blackberries, 5 cents' worth stick cinnamon, 5 cents' 
worth cloves, or 12 cloves to a bottle ; 10 cents' worth candied orange 
or lemon peel, three-quarters cupful of sugar to each bottle. Use 
quart bottles. Stand bottles in the sun 4 weeks. Excellent for sum- 
mer diseases. A tried recipe. 

Blackberry Wine. — To 2 quarts of blackberry juice add 3 quarts 
of water (put the fruit in the water after the juice has been pressed 
from it and .strain), add 5 pounds of brown sugar and one-half pound 
seed raisins ; be sure to seed the raisins, as the seeds give the wine a 
brackish taste; mix all v/ell together, and put in a large jug; cork 
loosely; set in a cool cellar. It will take about six weeks to work. 
Then cork tightly and let it remain in the jug three months longer, 
then strain and bottle, seal. Blackberry wine possesses highly 
medicinal qualities. 





Scientists tell us that the food value 
of sugar is very great. A pound of sugar 
contains much more energy and power to 
support animal life than a pound of meat. 
If candy is taken under such conditions 
that it will not derange the digestive apparatus, it is 
perfectly wise and rational to be a candy-eater. And 
if candies are to be eaten, those prepared at home are 
sure to be free from injurious ingredients. 

Coloring's for Candies. — The colorings most used in candies are 
pink, yellow, amber or light brown, green and dark red, and from 
combining these many tints can be obtained. You can prepare all 
these at home. 

Cochineal. — Use this, a drop at a time, carefully, as it will color 
very deeply. A small quantity will go a good way. 

Yellow. — Get ten cents' worth of Spanish saffron, and boil it in 
half a pint of water till reduced one-quarter. Strain this liquid through 
muslin, squeezing hard. This is also a very strong coloring fluid. 

G^'ecn. — Pistache candy gets its name from its green coloring, 
supposed to be obtained from the nuts, that are quite tasteless and 
very costly. The flavor really is obtained from bitter almond, or 
almond and orange flower water, while the color is made from spinach. 
See rule before given. 

Chocolate Caramels. — So many receipts for chocolate caramels 
call for cream, but it is not really necessary to use it when one has 
good butter. Here is a receipt which is cheap, simple, and never 
fails : One cupful molasses, and 2 teacupfuls of white sugar ; dissolve 
over a fire, and add a piece of butter the size of an Q%^, and a quarter 
of a pound of grated chocolate. Boil until a small quantity, dropped 
in ice water, becomes quite firm, then pour into greased pans, and 
when cool cut into squares, which may be wrapped in greased squares 
of paper. The chocolate need not be grated ; break the large cake 
in halves, and put it in ; the heat rapidly dissolves it, and it is a waste 
of time to grate it, 

Ml 



542 CANDIES. 

Chocolate Caramels. — II. A more simple method of preparing 
the caramels with good results, is to take 1 pint of New Orleans 
molasses and 1 pint of brown sugar, and cook till brittle when tried 
in water. Then, just before removing from the fire, add half a cake 
of Baker's chocolate. They have a fine flavor. 

Nut Caramels. — Use the first rule given for caramels. Omit the 
chocolate, and add \]^ cupfuls of chopped peanuts or other nuts. 
Chop them quite fine. 

Cream Caramels. — Half a pound of Baker's chocolate, grated 
fine ; sift 2 pounds of white sugar ; put with it 1 heaping teaspoonful 
of butter, 1 teacupful thick sweet cream. Cook these ingredients 
until the mixture candies (it takes about 20 minutes' hard boiling). 
After taking from the fire, put in 1 teaspoonful of vanilla ; this makes 
the dark part. 

For the Cream. — Take 3 cupfuls of finest sifted white sugar and 
1 cupful cream; boil 20 minutes ; do not stir much. Flavor with the 
juice and grated peel of an orange. Butter a dish, pour upon it a 
layer of the dark part, letting it stand in a cool place until partly 
hardened. Next, add a layer of the white cream, which also allow a 
few minutes to harden. Lastly, cover with another layer of the 
chocolate ; when nearly hard cut in squares. 

Tuttl-Frutti Caramels. — Half a cupful of cream and 2 cupfuls of 
powdered sugar ; boil 5 minutes in a granite kettle, counting from the 
time it boils all over. Place the kettle in cold water and beat it until 
stiff enough to hold candied fruit. Add quarter of a pound of 
candied fruit, cut fine, and pour the cream into a narrow bread pan, 
buttered or lined with paraffin paper. The second layer is the same, 
using, in place of the fruit, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 1 small square 
of chocolate, melted. The third layer is colored pink with cochineal, 
and flavored with chopped almonds. The fourth layer is like the 
first. Cut in squares. 

Jujube Paste. — Take 2 cupfuls of sugar, one-quarter of a pound 
of gum arabic and 1 pint of water. Flavor with the essence of 
lemon and a grain of cochineal. Let the mixture stand until the 
gum is dissolved in a warm place on the back of the stove, then draw 
forward and cook until thick ; try in cold water. It should be lim- 
ber and bend when cold. Pour in buttered pans, an eighth of an inch 
thick. When cool^ roll up in a scroll, 



CANDIES. 543 

Barley Sugar. — Dissolve 1 yi pounds of loaf or granulated sugar 
in one-half pint of water ; add the white of 1 egg. When it has 
boiled sufficiently to snap in cold water, add the strained juice of 1 
large lemon. Boil quickly until it candies as before ; then pour on a 
buttered slab or large platter. When it cools, cut with a pair of 
scissors into narrow strips, cut these in squares, or twist them slightly, 
place on waxed paper to harden, then pack away in a close-covered 
jar and keep in a dry place. 

Ice Cream Candy. — Boil 3 cups of sugar, a quarter of a teaspoon- 
ful of cream of tartar, and one-half cup of water together, but do 
not stir the syrup at all while boiling. Boil until, when a little is 
dropped into cold water, it is brittle. Turn on to a large, well-but- 
tered platter or a marble slab that has been oiled, and, as it cools, 
fold the edges toward the centre. As soon as it can be handled, pull 
it unlil it is white. Flavor to suit. 

Cream Candy. — Four pounds of granulated sugar, 1 pint of water, 

4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, butter the 
size of an (^^^. Boil all slowly three-quarters of an hour. Pour on 
buttered tins to cool. 

Molasses Candy. — One quart molasses, one-half cup of vinegar, 
1 cupful granulated sugar, butter the size of an &^^, 1 teaspoonful 
soda. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar ; put in with molasses and 
butter, and boil, stirring often. As soon as it hardens when dropped 
in water, it is done. Then stir the soda in quickly and pour in but- 
tered pans to cool. Pull until white. 

Molasses Candy. — II. One pint molasses, 1 pound of brown sugar, 
one-quarter of a pound of butter. Boil until it hardens in cold 
water. Pour in weli-greased pans, very thin. If the candy is to 
contain nuts of any kind, they should be placed in the pan before 
pouring the candy. Or it can be pulled as above. 

Cream Almonds. — Make cream candy as per rule for chocolate 
creams, and form it by hand around almond kernels, covering thickly. 
A crystallized appearance may be given by rolling them while moist 
in granulated sugar. 

Peppermint Drops. — Two cups of sugar, ^ cup of water ; boil 

5 minutes, then remove from fire ; add small half teaspoon cream of 
tartar, flavor to taste with oil of peppermint or checkermint, and drop 
quickly on buttered paper. 



544 CANDIES. 

Lemon or Orange Drops. — Grate the rind of 1 orange or lemon, 
and squeeze the juice, taking care to reject the seeds, add to this a 
pinch of tartaric acid, then stir in confectioners' sugar until it is stiff 
enough to form into small balls the size of small marbles. This is 
delicious candy, 

Lemon Drops. — II. Upon 1 cup of powdered sugar pour enough 
lemon juice to dissolve it, and boil it to a thick syrup ; drop on but- 
tered plates and set in a warm place to harden. 

AVintergreeii, Ginger or Rose Drops. — Make as for pepper- 
mints, and flavor to taste. Color the rose with cochineal. For the 
ginger flavor with a teaspoonful of Jamaica ginger. 

Cream Peppermints. — Two cupfuls of confectioners' sugar, or 
fine granulated will do, 6 tablespoonfuls of hot water boiled together 
about three minutes, until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup looks 
clear. Do not stir the syrup. When done, pour into a bowl, add 
one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful 
of essence of peppermint. Beat with a spoon until white and creamy 
— about three minutes — then drop on paper or tins slightly buttered. 
The paper must be perfectly smooth, and the spoon twirled as you 
drop the cream, or the peppermints will not be round. The dropping 
must be done very rapidly, as the cream hardens quickly. 

Vinegar Taffy. — Three cupfuls granulated sugar, one-half cupful 
vinegar, one-half cupful water, butter size of a walnut; boil without 
stirring until it will candy when dropped into cold water. Flavor 
with lemon and pour out on a buttered dish. Cut into squares just 
before it hardens. Some cooks stir in ^ teaspoonful of soda just 
before taking up. 

Maple Wax. — Boil maple sugar with a little water to a thick 
syrup. When a little will harden readily on snow or ice, it is ready. 
Then pour it over a great pan, either of closely packed snow or ice. 
It will make sheets of brittle, melting candy that is most luscious 
and very easily prepared. 

Maple Balls. — Two cups maple sugar, 1 cup water ; cook without 
stirring, and when it becomes brittle dropped in water, add heaping 
tablespoon butter. Beat until creamy ; make into balls ; add halves 
of English walnuts on both sides. Lay on buttered paper to harden. 

Maple Chocolate Balls. — Half pound maple sugar, broken fine, 
and dissolved with one-fourth cupful cold water. When perfectly 



CANDIES. 545 

dissolved, let it boil hard five minutes. Break up quarter cake of 
chocolate and put in a bowl over boiling water to melt; this can be 
done by removing the lid from the tea-kettle and setting the bowl in 
its place. Take the sugar from the fire, put in a cool place and beat 
until stiff enough to make into balls about the size of marbles. Place 
on buttered plates to harden and then drop one by one into the 
melted chocolate. Turn with a fork until completely covered and 
place on buttered paper to harden. 

Butter Scotch. — One cup of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, half cup 
of butter ; boil until it hardens when dropped in cold water ; then 
pour in a greased pan. Some put peanuts in the pan before turning 
in the candy. 

Mering-iie Kisses. — Beat the whites of four eggs until quite stiff, 
add pinch of salt, teaspoonful of flavoring, 1 cup of fine granulated 
sugar ; beat with a fork until very stiff. Drop on buttered paper and 
bake three-quarters of an hour in a very slow oven. 

Popcorn Candy. — Make a common molasses candy. Have corn 
nicely popped ; grind it fine in a coffee-mill, and when the candy is 
ready to remove from the fire, stir in as much of the ground corn as 
possible, and pour the whole into tin trays or dripping-pans (well 
buttered), marking squares when partly cool. This is a very delicious, 
tender candy. 

Sug-ared Popcorn. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar, 3 table- 
spoonfuls of water and 1 tablespoonful of butter into a deep kettle, 
and boil until it will candy, when a little is dropped into cold water. 
Remove the kettle from the fire, and throw in immediately a little 
more than 3 quarts of nicely popped corn, stirring briskly all the 
time. When the syrup is well mixed with the corn, each kernel will 
be found separate from the rest and crystallized with sugar. 

Popcorn Balls. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan, 
and wet it with half a cupful of cider (or vinegar and water mixed). 
When the sugar is dissolved, add half a cupful of water and allow it 
to boil without stirring until it will hair when dropped from a spoon. 
Have ready in a large pan or chopping bowl 11 or 12 double handfuls 
of well-popped corn. By double handfuls is meant all one can pos- 
sibly hold between both hands. Pour the syrup over the corn, stir- 
ring fast until the mass is well mixed. Then flour the hands and 
make into balls. This quantity makes 14 good-sized balls. A little 
35 



546 CANDIES. 

red sugar can be added to the syrup if more fancy looking balls are 
desired. The balls can also be made of molasses, or half-and-half 
molasses and sugar. When possible, it is best to get corn that is 
more than a year old, as it pops much better. 

Cough Candy. — An excellent cough candy is made of slippery 
elm, flaxseed and sugar. Soak a gill of whole flaxseed in half a pint 
of boiling water. In another dish put a cupful of broken bits of slip- 
pery elm and cover this also with boiling water. Let these stand for 
2 hours. Then strain them both through a muslin cloth into a sauce- 
pan containing 1 ^2 pounds of granulated sugar. Extract all the liquor 
you can, stir the sugar until it is melted, and then boil it until it turns 
to candy. Pour it out at once, when it reaches this point, on to greased 
papers. This is the old-fashioned rule. The candy is more palatable 
if the juice of 2 lemons is added to it after it has cooked for 10 minutes. 

Hoarlioimd Candy. — Boil 2 ounces of dried hoarhound, which 
can be procured at the druggist's, in a pint and a half of water until 
its flavor is extracted, that is, for about 30 minutes. Strain until per- 
fectly clear. Add to it S^i pounds of brown sugar, and boil over a 
quick fire until the syrup will harden when a little of it is dropped in 
cold water. Pour into a buttered tin, and cut in squares when it is 
partly cooled. 

Date Candy. — Take 4 cupfuls of white sugar, 1 scant cupful of 
cold water, butter size of an egg. Let boil slowly until ready to candy, 
not too hard. Cut dates, and remove the seeds. Close them again, 
lay on a well-buttered platter in rows 1 inch apart each way, pour the 
boiled candy over, and while cooling cut in squares so that a date 
will be in each square. 

Fruit or Ifut Candies. — Dates, figs, raisins or cherries dried in 
sugar and taken in small lumps may be prepared according to the 
rule given above for Date Candy. Nut-meats of various kinds may 
be also used in the same manner, substituting any of these for the 
dates given above. A variation in the candy may be made by sub- 
stituting vinegar or lemon juice for the water used in the before- 
mentioned recipe. 

Tutti-Frutti Cream Candy. — Three cupfuls of white sugar, half a 
cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil 10 minutes, then add 1 
cupful grated fresh cocoanut or the desiccated. Boil 10 minutes longer, 
remove from fire and stir in 1 pound of fresh-chopped figs or nut- 



CANDIES. 547 

meats, half-and-half with the figs. Drop by spoonfuls on buttered 
paper or in fancy moulds, or pour in shallow pans and cut in squares 
while cooling. Raisins may be mixed with the figs. 

Fig- Rock. — Boil 1 cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a cupful 
of water together, until the mixture turns to an amber color; add a 
little cream of tartar before taking it from the fire. Have the figs ready 
cut up on a dish, and pour the mixture over them. When nearly 
cold cut into square blocks. 

Cream Fig's. — Beat the white of an egg, stir in powdered sugar 
until as stiff as possible, and yet admit of dipping the figs. Dip in 
each fig one or more times until entirely covered. Place on a heater 
to dry. 

Fig- Paste. — A dainty, inexpensive candy is made thus : Chop 
into bits and boil a pound of figs. When soft, strain and press through 
a sieve. Return to the water in which they were boiled, and which 
should be reduced to 1 cupful. Stir in 3 pounds of granulated sugar 
and cook down slowly until a thick paste is formed. Pour in pans 
lined with paper. Let cook. Take out on the paper and cut into 
sections. Dust with powdered sugar. 

Rose Candy. — One pound of granulated sugar, 1 teacup of cream, 
mix it together, boil 15 minutes, fast stirring all the time; try it by 
dropping some in a cup of cold water; if right it will not melt, but 
feel gummy; beat the white of an egg to a froth and stir the candy 
into it, divide it, color one part with 4 drops of cochineal, flavor with 
half teaspoon of vanilla, the other with half teaspoon of lemon; butter 
a dish, then pour first one and let it spread, then the other on top; 
when partly cool score it across with a knife. 

Candy Eggs for Easter. — Get tin moulds in egg shape, or use 
small china egg cups. Melt half a pound of chocolate and fill the 
moulds with the liquid, a teaspoonful at a lime. Wait a moment, and 
then pour out what will flow. The chocolate which adheres to the 
mold, will, after cooling, for.m the egg, and may be detached by tap- 
ping the mould lightly. Forming the perfect egg is equally easy. 
This is done by rubbing the edge of one-half to and fro over some 
warm surface, and then pressing it against the edges of the cold egg. 
The egg can be made solid instead of hollow ; but this, of course, 
requires a much larger quantity of chocolate, or it can be filled with 
the cream candy used for chocolate creams, finely chopped English 



648 CANDIES. 

walnuts, or anything of the sort. The eggs can also be prepared 
without moulds by shaping the cream-candy filling with the hands 
into little eggs, and then dipping them by means of a small wooden 
skewer into the melted chocolate, which, when it cools, forms a 
covering. 

[In any of the recipes for cocoanut candy, where it is necessary 
to use the desiccated cocoanut, it must be soaked over night in as 
much milk as it will absorb, about one-half cupful of milk to one-half 
pound of cocoanut.] 

Cocoanut Candy. — Take the white meat of cocoanuts, grate 
coarse until you have one-half pound ; dissolve one-half pound of 
refined sugar in 2 tablespoonfuls of water ; put it over the fire, and as 
soon as it boils stir the cocoanut in. Stir until it is boiled to a flake; 
pour into a buttered pan or marble slab ; then cut in forms to suit, 
when it is nearly cold. 

Cocoanut Taffy. — One cup of desiccated cocoanut, and pour in 
enough sweet milk to cover the cocoanut; let soak while other ingre- 
dients are cooking; 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, butter the 
size of an egg, and one tablespoon of vinegar; boil about 15 minutes, 
then put in the cocoanut and milk. Watch carefully after putting in 
cocoanut, as it will scorch very quickly if you do not stir it. Cook 
until brittle when dropped in water. Pour in a buttered tin and set 
away to cool. 

Orange and Cocoanut Candy. — To 2 cupfuls of granulated 
sugar add the grated rind and half the juice of a small orange, 
together with enough cold water to thoroughly moisten the sugar. 
When it comes to a boil, add half a cupful of desiccated or, better, 
freshly-grated cocoanut. Let it boil, without stirring, until it stiffens 
in cold water, so that you can take it up in a very soft ball. Take 
from the fire and set saucepan and all in a cold place until the syrup 
is nearly cool, then stir vigorously until it becomes thick and white, 
and pour quickly on a buttered plate. Cut in squares. 

Hickory-nut Candy (Molasses). — One pint of molasses, one- 
half cupful of granulated sugar. Let boil 15 minutes, then add piece 
of butter the size of hickory nut. As soon as it crisps when dropped 
into cold water, add one-half teaspoonful of soda made very fine. 
Stir quickly ; then add one pint hickory-nut meats. Pour on buttered 
tins to harden. 



CANDIES. 549 

Hickory-nut Candy (Siig-ar). — One cup of hickory-nut meats, 
two cups of sugar and half a cup of water. Boil the sugar and 
water without stirring until thick enough to spin to a thread, flavor 
with vanilla, set in cold water and stir quickly until white ; then stir 
in the nuts. 

Peanut Candy (Sug-ar). — Two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one- 
half a cupful water. When it comes to a boil, add one-half tea- 
spoonful cream of tartar, dissolve in a tablespoonful of water. Cook 
until when dropped in cold water it is brittle. Then add a piece of 
butter the size of an English walnut; cook a minute longer. Pour 
over a quart of shelled peanuts already spread in a buttered tin, and 
set away to cool. Sometimes it is nice to crush the peanuts with a 
rolling-pin after their skins have been removed. This breaks with a 
snap. 

Peanut Candy (Molasses). — One cup of molasses, one-half cup 
of butter, 1 cup of peanuts (shelled), boil 10 minutes; add peanuts 
just before you take it from the fire. Put in buttered pan, and when 
cool cut in squares. 

Salted Peanuts. — Shell the peanuts, and blanch by pouring 
hot water over them, so that the skin will slip off easily. When dry, 
stir them well in melted butter — 1 tablespoonful of butter is enough 
for a cupful of peanuts. Let them dry again, and sprinkle thoroughly 
with salt all over. Put in a flat baking tin and let them bake until a 
delicious brown. Do not have the oven too hot. You need only 
stir them 2 or 3 times. It will probably take about 10 or 15 minutes 
to brown them nicely. Salted peanuts are a cheap and appetizing sub- 
stitute for the almond. 

Salted Almonds. — To salt a cupful of shelled almonds, pour 
boiling water over them, and when they have rested a moment drain 
it off and rub the skin off each almond with the thumb and finger. 
Spread the almond on a pan for about 5 minutes in the oven to dry. 
Put a tablespoonful of pure olive oil or melted butter over them, and 
toss until they are thoroughly coated; sprinkle a heaping table- 
spoonful of salt over them and toss the almonds again in this. Let 
them then rest in a cup for an hour. At the end of this time spread 
them on a pan in a rather quick oven and let them remain for 5 or 10 
minutes or until they are turned an even golden brown. Stir them 
occasionally while browning. They must be crisp and very delicately 



550 CANDIES. 

colored. Put thcin on the tabic at the beginning of the dinner, with 
the olives and pickles, and in any low, ornamental dish. A change 
is to brown the almonds delicately in the oven, then cool, and instead 
of butter, put the unbeaten white of an egg in a large dish and- stir 
the almonds until they are thoroughly coated. Then spread upon 
plates and .sprinkle with salt. Return them to the oven. Stir 
frequently. 

Marsh-Mallow Candy. — The foundation of candies made with 
gum arabic, that is, the plain paste, is what is usually known as 
marsh-mallows. They are easy to make, but very tedious, as they 
require beating an hour or more. Use to make them the very best 
white gum arabic, powdered, and double its weight of water, with 
three times its weight of sugar. The sugar is the fine powdered. 

Toasted Marsh-Mallows. — Hold, on a long iron skewer, a marsh- 
mallow above a bed of glowing coals, turning it over and over, until 
the paste grows golden brown, softens, and the crust, breaking apart, 
shows the soft white centre. Eat at once. 

Old Style Cream Candies. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gum arabic in half 
a pint of water, and strain it. Add one pint of sweet new milk or 
cream. Pour this over 3^ pounds of granulated sugar, and stir over 
the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Boil 8 minutes, dip a small 
skimmer in the syrup, take it out and blow through it. If the candy 
hangs in threads from the holes, it is done. Flavor with peppermint, 
vanilla, or any desired flavoring. Pour it out on an oiled dish to 
cool. As soon as it can be handled, oil or butter your hands, and 
pull it as you would molasses candy until it is very white. Braid it 
while soft, or leave it in long, thick strips. If you wish cocoanut, 
add it while the candy is soft, and work it in in the pulling. This 
candy must be kept in self-sealing jars or it will get very hard. 

Candied Violets. — One-half pint water, one-half pound granu- 
lated sugar, put in a bright tin pan over the fire, stir until the sugar 
is melted, cook until the syrup spins a thread, remove from fire and 
set in a pan of cold water. When partly cool, beat rapidly until 
partly crystallized. Have a quantity of double sweet violets (white 
preferred), cut off stems, drop in a few at a time, stir gently. Lift 
with wire tongs on to oiled paper, and leave to harden. 



CANDIES. 551 

French Oandies. 

The foundation of all French bon-bons is the French cream or 
fondant. This is made in the cooked, and the uncooked form. 

Freucli Cream or Foudaut (Cooked). — This French cream foun- 
dation is made of 2 pounds of sugar and a cup of water, boiled in a 
bright saucepan ; do not stir until a little drop rolled between the 
fingers forms a soft, creamy ball. When this stage is reached, beat 
the syrup thoroughly until it is cool enough to be moulded with the 
hands. Then work it as you would dough on a stone platter, or 
marble board. This fondant will keep for a long time if it is kept in 
a cool place. It can be melted out at any time by setting it in a cup 
of boiling water over the stove, and made into candies. Some of it 
may be colored pink with a little cochineal, and wrapped around 
blanched French almonds, or stoned French prunes. Some of it may 
be rolled into creamy little balls about the size of marbles, and dipped 
into a melted cake of sweet chocolate, when it becomes a chocolate 
cream. Some of it may be colored pale green with a little spinach 
green, and filled with blanched almonds or pistachio nuts. Pistachio 
luts are not easy to obtain, but they may always be purchased at 
;:;ome of the leading confectioners. They generally cost one dollar 
a pound. 

Cocoaimt Balls. — Cocoanut balls are formed by kneading shred- 
ded cocoanut into a portion of the fondant; make into balls, and 
when cool brush with the white of an egg, and roll into some grated 
cocoanut. 

Cliocolate Squares. — Chocolate squares are made by mixing with 
some of the fondant enough melted chocolate to give it a rich 
brown color. If too soft, add pulverized sugar until it can be 
handled, and form into squares. 

Chocolate Creams. — Nip off pieces of the fondant the size of 
robins' eggs, form into cones and put in a cool place to harden. Melt 
a cake of sweetened chocolate, and proceed according to rule for 
chocolate creams before given. 

Date Caudy. — Remove the seeds from some dates, and insert a 
small portion of the fondant for date candy. 

Walnut Creams. — Walnut creams are especially nice made with 
the fondant. Select perfect walnut kernels. Cover them with cream, 



552 CANDIES. 

so that they are completely concealed in the little white ball. Wrap 
them in fanciful little colored papers. 

Chocolate, Maple and Pepperniiiit Patties. — To make chocolate 
patties, melt some of the softer fondant in a cup, and add some finely- 
cut chocolate, bitter or confectioners'; if too thick to drop, add a few- 
drops of water. These can be flavored if desired, and usually will be 
found harder than the peppermint or wintergreen patties. Chocolate 
peppermints are made in the same manner as peppermint patties, as 
described above ; when hard, each one is dipped in confectioners' 
chocolate which has been melted over steam. Maple patties are 
made by cutting up 2 cupfuls of maple sugar, adding 1 cupful of cold 
water, and just a speck of cream of tartar dissolved in water, and 
cooking like plain fondant. When cold, melt and drop like the other 
patties. 

Freucli Cream, or Fondant Uncooked. — This cream is the foun- 
dation of many candies. It is made in the proportion of 1 pound of 
confectioners' sugar to the white of 1 egg, and as much cold water. 
The egg and water are beaten to a froth, and then creamed with 
sugar. Then divide the cream into as many sections as you wish to 
have colors and flavors. The tiniest drop of cochineal will tint a 
beautiful pink, and flavor this with either rose or vanilla. Flavor 
some of the plain white with vanilla, and some with lemon. It is 
most satisfactory to have by far the largest portion of the cream fla- 
vored with vanilla. Then with the tips of the fingers form both the 
pink and white into small balls. If the cream is too soft, stiffen with 
more sugar. 

Creani Walnuts. — On some fondants place an English walnut meat 
on each side ; on others, a half of a date, and roll almonds inside some 
of the others. Then when you have as many cream walnuts, dates 
and almonds as you wish, use the remainder for the chocolate drops. 

Chocolate Drops. — For the coating get the rough, sweetened 
chocolate, which confectioners sell by the bulk. This may be melted 
in the chafing-dish by being broken into small lumps and stirred until 
it is smooth and glossy. Then dip the balls in the mixture until 
covered, and drop on sheets of waxed paper. 

Nut Cream. — With a portion of the plain cream — I am presuming 
that you nre making the candies on a large scale — and the broken 
bits of all the kinds of nuts, mould a loaf, which is to be cut in slices 



CANDIES. 553 

when thoroughly cold ; or cut in small squares and roll in waxed 
paper if it is to be kept. 

Pluiu Pudding- Candy. — Plum pudding candy is a collection of 
all available fruits and nuts, held together by a fondant of white of 
egg mixed with powdered sugar. Use figs, candied cherries, citron, 
pineapple, raisins, with a light blending of spices, and a few almonds 
blanched and chopped, or other variety of nuts. Mix the materials 
thoroughly, and pack in a box or tin lined with paraffin paper, leav- 
ing the mixture to ripen for a few hours. It may then be cut in small 
cubes with a sharp knife, and each cube wrapped in a piece of 
paper, as caramels are prepared, or cut in slices. 

Orange Creams. — Instead of using water with the white of egg, 
take a little of the latter, as much orange juice, and then the sugar to 
make a cream stiff enough to handle. This cream cannot be used 
for any other candy, but may be combined with candied orange; but 
this orange cream formed into balls makes a delicious sweetmeat. 
Choose a sour orange for these. Lemon can be made in the same 
way, and may be used with the orange. 

Coffee Creams. — By using a little of the white of egg with coffee 
you will have coffee creams. Whenever any other liquid is used 
omit the water. 

Nong-at Candy. — Boil together a pound of sugar and half a cup 
of cold water until a little of it becomes brittle when dropped into 
cold water. Do not stir it after the sugar melts. Butter a shallow 
tin — a biscuit pan will answer — and cover the bottom closely with 
blanched almonds, the kernels of hickory, pecan and hazel nuts, thin 
strips of cocoanut, split and stoned dates and bits of figs. When the 
candy is done, add to it a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and pour it 
over your nuts and fruits. Mark it into strips or squares when it is 
cool. 

;N"ongat. — II. Wliite of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 
teaspoonful vanilla. Put in as much confectioner's sugar as will 
make stiff paste. Have ready the meats of 2 pounds of mixed nuts 
(almonds, pecans, English walnuts, filberts and Brazil nuts) chopped 
fine ; mix in. Put some confectioner's sugar on the moulding-board, 
lay the paste, and mix well. Roll out with a rolling-pin. Cut in 
strips about half an inch wide and an inch and a half long, and put on 
plates to dry. 




''QOI(fNG''^'^IMLIDS 



■^T-^ Arrange the invalid's tray as daintily as 

' -~ A possible, and serve only the amount he can take, 
^ for many times the sight of a large quantity of 
food will cause nausea and render it impossible 
to taste a particle. And before feeding bathe the hands 
and face with a cloth wrung out in hot water. Good 
nurses omit this sometimes, but the refreshment gained 
thereby often gives a relish to the food. Never leave 
food standing by a patient with the hope that an appetite may be 
aroused Ijy its presence. Remove at once and serve again later on, 
in fresh dishes if necessary. Dishes should be heated if the food is 
to be served hot, and kept cold if to be served cold. Custards should 
be set in ice or in pans of cold water. Serve food to the sick at regu- 
lar intervals, even if only a tablespoonful can be taken at once ; it 
will help keep his strength. In dropping medicine into a spoon, 
place the handle between the leaves of a closed book lying on the 
table, and then both hands may be used in dropping the mixture. 
For nausea scorch some rice, pour boiling water over it, and drink as 
hot as possible. 

SomcDou'ts for the Sick Room. — Don't make unnecessary noise. 
Don't let doors squeak ; oil them. Don't whisper. Don't make 
noticeable and exaggerated efforts at being quiet. Don't speak of 
similar cases with fatal terminations. Don't admit tearful visitors. 
Don't keep the room too hot. Don't forget frequent ventilation. 
Don't raise a dust. Don't forget to bathe the patient's face and hands 
frequently and wash the teeth and mouth. Don't give stimulants 
unless ordered by the physician. Don't wake patient from a sound 
sleep to administer medicine. Don't ask the patient " how he feels" 
every few moments. Don't taste the patient's food with his spoon. 
Don't masticate loudly and cheerfully yourself while the patient is 
dieting. Don't prepare food in the sick room. Don't ask the patient 
what he wants to eat. Don't fail to have plenty of fresh, clean 
towels. Don't let cold food get hot, or hot food get cold. Don't 
let food stand by the bed. Don't bring too much food at a time. 
Don't wet the bedclothing and dress in feeding the patient. Don't 
554 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 555 

make him drink too fast. Don't leave bureau drawers open and 
shades crooked. Don't yawn frequently and unreservedly. Don't 
jar the bed. Don't rock vigorously and continuously. Don't intro- 
duce mournful and suggestive subjects. In a word, don't forget that 
a sick person, if conscious at all, is apt to have painfully acute per- 
ceptions and sensibilities, on which trifles jar in a superlative degree. 
When a patient cannot be raised from the bed without risk of exhaus- 
tion, a medicine tube or crockery feeder should be used, but the same 
appliance, or even one of the same appearance, should not be used 
for administering both food and medicine. 

To Keep Cracked Ice. — Take an ordinary porcelain pudding dish. 
Over the top tie a large square of clean, old white flannel. Inside 
the dish let the flannel bag down so as, by all but an inch, to touch 
the porcelain bottom. Set as much ice as will be needed for a time 
into this flannel bag, and cover it by throwing back the long 
points hanging outside the dish. Thus suspended and covered, the ice 
melts very slowly, even in a warm room. When a feverish patient 
demands a bit every few moments, a neat little home-made device for 
cracking silently little lumps of ice, as they are required, is made 
from a large cork. Into one end insert the head of a No. 8 needle. 
By merely pressing the cork down with a thimbled finger, the needle 
quickly splits the ice apart. It is well to cut a tiny opening in the 
bottom of the flannel bag, that it may drain more quickly. Crushed 
ice can be prepared in a couple of minutes by chopping off a piece 
from the large cake with an ice-pick ; put the piece that is to be 
crushed in a clean coarse cloth ; gather the corners of the cloth, and 
bang it two or three times against any unbreakable surface, as a stone 
hearth, iron sink, etc. Rinse the ice first, and use a clean cloth, and 
the crushed ice will be perfectly clean. 

Nourishing Drinks. 

When the temperature reaches 101 degrees or over, the sick per- 
son should be fed liquids only, because the power of the stomach to 
digest food is impaired, and it needs assistance. Besides this, when 
there is loss of appetite, the sufferer will relish food in liquid form 
after he turns in disgust from delicacies in solid. There are a great 
variety of nutritive foods, easily prepared, to tempt the palate ; among 
which are arrowroot, cornstarch, clam juice, jellies, such as calf's 



556 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

foot jelly, wine or lemon jelly, meat jelly, wine whey. Mutton broth 
is healing; and then there is barley gruel, rice gruel, flour gruel, oat- 
meal gruel, Indian meal gruel, and sago gruel. 

Apple Water. — Pare and slice a fine, juicy apple. Pour 1 large 
cupful of boiling water over it. Cover and let stand until cold. Or, 
roast 2 nice tart apples ; do not burn. Cut them up, and pour over 
them 1 pint of boiling water. Let cool. Either of these will be found 
a refreshing drink. They may be sweetened slightly, if liked, and a 
couple of cloves may be added. This is an excellent drink for a 
feverish cold. 

Tamariud Water. — Over 1 glass tumbler of tamarinds, pour 1 
pint of cold water. Let stand 1 hour before using, then strain. 

Rice Water. — Rice water is a pleasant drink for children and in- 
valids. Boil a teacupful of rice in 3 pints of water. Allow it to sim- 
mer gently for three-quarters of an hour, when strain it and sweeten 
a little, if liked. At times when choleraic disorders are prevalent, a 
stick of cinnamon boiled in it makes a comforting beverage. Raisins 
boiled in it, give it a pleasant flavor ; so also does the thin yellow 
rind of a lemon. 

Barley Water. — A favorite, as well as nourishing drink for in- 
valids, is barley water. To prepare it, place a quart of water in a 
saucepan over the fire. Wash well 2 ounces of pearl barley, and 
throw into the water. Bring it to boiling point, then add lemon and 
sugar to suit the taste. Draw the pan to the back of the fire, and 
simmer gently 2 hours. Strain, and cover until cold. It should be 
reduced about one-half when done. 

Crust Coffee. — Brown crusts of wheat bread or Graham biscuits 
in the oven until thoroughly toasted through, but not burned. Break 
in pieces, and pour boiling water over them. Let steep, and serve as 
ordinary coffee, with cream and sugar. Very wholesome for dys- 
peptics. 

Toast Water. — Make as above for Crust Coffee, but not so 
strong, and give it cold, without milk or sugar, as a drink. 

Cornnieal Coffee. — Put 1 pint of coarse cornmeal into a bowl, and 
pour over it a pint of boiling water ; stir till well mixed ; add a 
cupful of cold water, a tablespoonful of molasses, a pinch of salt, and 
1 pint of coarse wheat or oatmeal. Stir well together ; dust a drip- 
ping-pan with cornmeal, and pour in the batter. Bake until browned, 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 567 

in a hot oven. When ready to make the coffee, spht the cake, put it 
in the oven to brown, but do not scorch ; break it into pieces, and put 
into a large earthenware pitcher. Pour 1 quart of boihng water over 
it. Simmer for an hour or longer. Serve with sugar and cream. It 
can be made of the cornmeal alone. It is most excellent for dyspep- 
tics, who cannot use coffee without injury. 

Linseed Tea. — Place in a jug 1 ounce of bruised linseed, 2 
drachms bruised licorice-root, half ounce white sugar and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice, and pour over them one pint of boiling 
water. Cover tightly, and digest for three or four hours near a fire. 
Strain through linen before using. This makes a mucilaginous liquid, 
possessing demulcent properties, and of special value in bronchial 
affections. 

Oatmeal Shrub. — Put 4 ounces of fine, fresh oatmeal into ajar, 
add 6 ounces of white sugar and the juice of a lemon. Moisten 
with lukewarm water enough to mix ; then pour over 1 gallon of 
boiling water, stirring thoroughly. Let settle ; use cold. This is a 
very strengthening and refreshing drink, especially for invalids. The 
flavoring may be varied to suit the taste. It is often used without 
either sugar or flavoring. 

Barley Water, with White of Eg-g-. — Take a tablespoonful of 
coarse barley, and wash well with cold water, rejecting the washings. 
Then boil for an hour or more with a pint and a half of clean water, 
in a covered vessel or saucepan. Add a pinch of salt, enough sugar 
to render palatable, and strain. To 4 or 6 ounces of barley water 
thus prepared add the white of 1 egg. The value of this preparation 
in gastro-intestinal inflammation and irritation is not easily over- 
estimated. In the entero-colitis of very young infants its exclusive 
administration for thirty-six or forty-eight hours will often relieve 
when all other measures have failed. 

Canned Grape-juice. — Cook the grapes 1 hour, or until soft. 
Strain through a fine strainer and cook the juice once more, adding 
1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice. Boil well and put in glass 
jars. 

Tea and Milk. — An English physician has a formula for tea and 
milk, designed for persons with weak digestion who like the slight 
stimulant of tea, but are unable to use it as ordinarily prepared. The 
milk is put into a saucepan cold, with the requisite amount of tea in 



558 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

an infuser or loosely tied in a muslin bag. The milk is then allowed 
to come slowly to the boil, and the moment the boiling point is 
reached the vessel must be taken from the fire and its contents 
quickly strained into a carefully-heated teapot. This concoction is 
said to be pleasant to drink and unwholesome to no one. 

Hot Milk. — Milk heated just below the boiling point and sipped 
slowly as hot as possible, is nourishing and stimulating as well, and 
will give good results, if substituted, in many cases, for wines, etc. 

Milk and Liiiie Water. — In cases where much nourishment 
must be administered in the form of milk and lime water, it is well 
to know the proportions are always an ounce of lime water to an 
ounce of milk mixed, to be used at the time the patient requires it. 

Milk Punch. — Milk Punch is useful where there is great weak- 
ness and little nourishment can be taken. Heat about one-half cup 
of milk and water, sweeten to taste and add 2 teaspoonfuls good 
whiskey. 

Streng-thening Chocolate. — Take 1 pint of the best chocolate, 1 
pound of rice flour, one-fourth pound arrowroot, one-half pound 
sifted loaf sugar. Thoroughly mix and rub together. A dessert- 
spoonful of this compound should be slightly moistened with milk 
and then stirred into a pint of boiling milk. 

Mulled AViue. — Put into one-half cup cold water 3 cloves, one 
inch cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg. Cover, set in a pan of water 
and cook 10 minutes, not allowing it to boil. Add one-half cup 
claret wine, cook 10 minutes longer, strain and serve at once. 
Sweeten or not as taste dictates. You may vary it and make it more 
nutritious by adding an egg, the white and yolk beaten separately, 
with half a tablespoonful of sugar; pour into the wine and serve at 
once. This is a drink that our grandmothers gave for a cold, and it 
is equally efficacious to-day. For preparing it never use a tin cup, as 
the acid of the wine would render the beverage unwholesome. 

Rennet "Whey. — One pint of scalding milk, not boiling ; 1 table- 
spoonful prepared rennet, or piece of rennet skin that has been 
soaked in water. Sweeten to taste and strain. It will be ready for 
use when cool. 

Wine Wliey. — One quart of new milk, heat to boiling point, take 
one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 2 dessertspoonfuls of sherry 
wine, and put into the milk, let it simmer a few minutes, when the 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 559 

curds are formed, strain off. It is a cooling and slightly laxative 
drink; it is used when the patient can keep nothing on the stomach. 
Sweeten to taste with white sugar. 

Butteriuilk AVIiey. — Boil the required quantity of fresh butter- 
milk. Season with a pinch of salt, a little loaf sugar, and nutmeg if 
liked. Pour the whey off carefully. 

Mulled Buttermilk, or Buttermilk Pop. — Rub a scant table- 
spoonful of butter into teacup of flour, wet it up to a thin paste with 
co'd buttermilk, and pour it into 2 quarts of boiling fresh buttermilk; 
salt to the taste. 

Eo-o|-_xog-. — Beat the yolk of an eg^ in a tumbler with 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of brandy, and the same of sugar, level. Beat the white 
of the egg to a stiff froth, mix thoroughly with the yolk, and fill the 
glass .with milk. Some patients cannot take egg and must have 
brandy and milk alone. Others take brandy and egg without milk, 
while the larger number take egg and milk alone. Some physicians 
advise using the yolk of the egg only. 

Egrg Wine. — Beat up a fresh egg until smooth and thick; add 
a teaspoonful of powdered loaf sugar ; stir in a glass of best port 
wine. This, when permitted, is very strengthening, or a tablespoon- 
ful of brandy or whiskey; cracked ice in the glass is an improvement. 

Eg-g Milk. — Beat a fresh egg until very light. Stir into a glass 
of new milk. Sweeten to taste and flavor with either nutmeg or 
lemon. Very strengthening. A pleasant change in the preparation 
of egg milk is to break the egg into a pint basin, and add about a 
tablespoonful of water; take away the white speck, and then beat 
evenly with a small whisk or fork until it becomes light; then add 
very gradually a gill of milk, heated to boiling point, beating all the 
time and continue until the whole is a fine foam. A little sugar and 
sherry or brandy may be added if liked. This way will be found 
to do away with a certain rawness of taste that is complained of so 
often. So:'netimes it is a change to place this drink on ice until cold. 
Brandy Cocoa. — Scald 1 cup of milk ; mix 1 teaspoon of sugar 
with 1 tablespoon of boiling water and 1 teaspoon of cocoa; add it 
to the milk ; cook over hot water 5 minutes; add one-half tablespoon 
of brandy and serve. A plain cocoa for the sick is to be made with 
boiling water, not milk. When serving add cream and sugar to the 
taste, or sugar only. 



560 COOKING FOR liNVALIDS. 

Egg Coffee. — The invalid who is tired of taking egg tonic mixed 
with sherry, and who dishkcs the taste of a raw egg, may enjoy the 
egg disguised in a cup of coffee. Prepare the coffee to the taste with 
cream ami sugar, keeping it very hot until ready for the egg, which 
must be beaten thoroughly in another cup and the prepared coffee 
added by degrees. Drink it hot, and it will be found not only pala- 
table, but strengthening. 

Temperance Egg-Nog. — Take a tall lemonade glass and fill it 
half-full of cracked ice. Break into it 2 fresh eggs, and pour in half 
a pint of milk, with just enough sugar to sweeten to the taste. Then 
shake it well and strain into another ice-cold glass. Top it off with 
a dash of nutmeg. Cooling and delicious. 

Mulled Jelly. — One tablespoonful of currcUit jelly beaten with 
the white of an egg, and a little loaf sugar; pour over this ot^e pint 
of boiling water, and break into it a slice of dry toast. This is very 
palatable. 

Lemonade. — See " Table Drinks and Beverages " for various 
ways of preparing it. For an invalid it should be made of the. juice 
only. Squeeze about a tablespoonful of juice into a tumbler, add 
sugar to taste and fill tumbler with fresh water. 

Hot Lemonade. — This is made same as cold lemonade, save that 
boiling water is used. This is very useful in case of sudden colds. 

Flaxseed Lemonade. — Flaxseed lemonade for coughs, colds and 
hoarseness is one of the old-fashioned woman's recipes. To make it, 
put two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of whole 
flaxseed into a pint of hot water. Steep an hour, strain, add the 
juice of one lemon, and set on ice until cold. If preferred, it may be 
drunk hot. 

Milk Lemonade. — Sugar, 1}4 pounds, dissolved in a quart of 
boiling water, together with half a pint of lemon juice and 1^ 
pints of milk. This makes a cooling, agreeable, nourishing beverage. 

Broths. 

Beef .Tiiice. — Slice juicy lean beef from the round, an inch thick, 
broil it quickly over a very hot fire, but without burning, until it is 
brown on both sides, lay it in a hot soup plate, cut it through in all 
parts with a very sharp knife, and set another hot plate on it, with 
the bottom against the meat ; then grasp both plates firmly and press 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 561 

them together, squeezing the juice from the meat; let it run into 
another dish. This is the only perfect form of beef tea. Season to taste, 
or take in its natural state. A quick way to express the juice is to 
cut the hot meat in small pieces and squeeze with a lemon squeezer, 
or small juice extractor. The juice should be caught in a hot cup. 
It can be given to the youngest infant, as well as to adults. It is the 
best food preparation to administer during the severity of an attack 
of any hot-weather disease. Give in teaspoonful to tablespoonful 
quantities at short intervals, say from 15 minutes to 2 hours, depend- 
ing upon the urgency of the case. It may be given hot, or, if there 
is much nausea, it may be poured over a little shaved ice and then 
administered. Extract of beef, if pure, contains nothing but the 
flavoring matter of the meat from which it is prepared. It is, there- 
fore, not a food at all, but a stimulant, and should be classed with tea 
and coffee. It should never be given to a sick person unless specially 
prescribed by a competent physician. Its strong meaty taste is 
deceptive, and a person depending upon it alone for food would die 
of starvation. 

Beef Tea. — One pound of lean beef (not one scrap of fat must 
be admitted) cut in small bits and put in a wide-mouthed bottle with- 
out water ; cork closely, set in a kettle of cold water, bring to a boil 
and keep boiling for 3 or 4 hours, until the meat in the bottle is like 
white rags. Press out the juice and season with a little salt. This 
troublesome way of making beef tea used to be considered the only 
method, but either of the above given are preferable. 

Moulded Beef Tea. — Put a pound of lean beef, cut fine, into a por- 
celain-lined stew-pan, with a pint of cold water. Let it stand half an 
hour, and then put it on the stove, where it will heat gradually. 
While boiling hot skim carefully, and put it where it will simmer 
gently for half an hour. When this is cooking, put a third of a box 
of gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Salt the broth to 
taste, and strain, boiling hot, over the gelatine. Stir till dissolved. 
Strain into cups or moulds. Set away to cool on ice. This will be 
found a very desirable change to the invalid. The other beef teas 
can be moulded in the same manner, adding gelatine in quantities 
according to the amount of tea. 

Frozen Beef Tea. — Put cold beef tea in a small pail, set in a 
wooden bucket, and surround it with salt and crushed ice. Let stand 
36 



562 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 



10 minutes, then take off the cover and scrape the congealed beef tea 
from the sides. Beat well and then put back the cover. Do this two 
or three times, and the tea will be frozen smooth. This is excellent 
for invalids who must have all their food cold. 

Quick Beef Tea. — A quick method of preparing a nourishing 
beef tea is as follows : Take any desired quantity of steak from the 
top part of the round, as this has less fat and more juice than any 
other part of the ox ; remove every morsel of fat, and divide the 
meat into small pieces, cutting across the grain ; put the meat in a 
dry saucepan and allow it to sweat for 5 minutes over a slow fire, 
stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. This is how all beef 
essences are prepared. After sweating for 5 minutes you will find 
the meat white in color and surrounded by a very rich, nourishing 

gravy, which, in cases of great 
exhaustion, may be given in this 
form. When using beef tea for 
invalids, a teaspoonful of the best 
whiskey adds greatly to its flavor 
and serves as a stimulant for the 
patient. This is especially good 
for grip during the convalescent 
stage. 

To warm up beef tea, put in 
a cup, and set the cup in boiling 
water. The use of meat juice 
Meat Juice Extractor. for medicinal purposes is a grow- 

ing one, and is recommended for the aged, delicate infants and inva- 
lids, in all cases where complete nourishment is required in a concen- 
trated form. 

Clam Brotli. — Simmer chopped clams in their own broth with an 
equal quantity of water, the broth strained through fine muslin, and 
seasoned with pepper. Hot milk may be added, and the whole served 
with toasted crackers. 

Clam Frappe. — Wash thoroughly 20 clams, and put them in a 
stew-pan with one-half cup cold water ; cover closely and steam until 
the shells open. Strain the liquid, cool, and freeze it to a mush. 
Serve in glasses. A small amount may be frozen easily in a baking- 
powder can by setting it in a tin pail and packing with ice and salt in 




COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 563 

equal proportions. The mixture will freeze in about half an hour, 
and should be stirred once or twice during that time. This clam- 
juice is also very often diluted and served hot, and in some cases of 
gastric inflammation will be retained by the stomach when almost 
everything else is rejected. 

Veal Broth. — Two pounds of knuckle of veal cracked into pieces 
and put over the fire with 2 quarts of cold water. Cover and cook 
slowly until it is reduced to 1 quart. Strain and season with salt. 
Meanwhile soak 3 tablespoonfuls of pearl sago in a cup of cold water, 
heat by setting the dish in a pan of boiling water for half an hour, 
and stir occasionally. Put the strained broth in a double boiler and 
add the warmed sago to it, cook half an hour, and then stir into it 1 
cup of cream heated to the boiling point, and the well-beaten yolks 
of 2 fresh eggs. Let all only come to a boil and remove from the 
fire at once. Serve as soon as possible. 

Nutritious Beef Brotli. — Allow a pint of cold water to a pound 
of lean beef (round steak preferable) cut in dice. Stir until the water 
boils ; it must not boil again, but simmer gently for 5 or 10 minutes, 
until all the juice is drawn out ; then strain carefully into a bowl, and 
if there is a particle of fat on top remove it with a piece of brown 
unsized paper. By this method you may take off every star of fat 
without wasting a drop of the beef tea, as is done when using a ladle 
or spoon. In this way you may have strong beef tea in 20 minutes. 

Muttou Brotli. — This is often ordered for invalids. It should be 
made as plainly as possible, and so as to secure the juice of the meat. 
Boil slowly about 2 pounds of lean mutton for two hours ; skim it 
very carefully, as it simmers, and do not put in much salt. Some 
vegetables may be added as a seasoning, and for some broths a little 
barley or rice. 

Cream Soup. — Sago, pearl tapioca, barley or rice may be used. 
Take any white stock that is rich and well seasoned. Put into a 
saucepan a half-pint of the stock and the same quantity of cream. 
When it comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoonful of flour thoroughly 
moistened with cold milk, and let it boil up once. Have the tapioca 
or whatever you wish to use in the soup cooked, and add it to the 
soup and serve. Barley requires 2 hours to cook, rice 1 hour ; sago 
and pearl tapioca must be soaked in cold water half an hour and 
cooked the same length of time. 



564 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

Cliickeu Broth. — Boil a comnion-sizcd chicken in 2 quarts of 
water (the water must be cold ai first) ; cover and cook until the 
meat is ready to fall to pieces. Strain, let simmer, adding 4 or table- 
spoonfuls of milk and a little salt and pepper. A tablespoonful of 
wcll-soakcd rice or pearl barley may be added also ; boil slowly one- 
half hour if this is done. Serve with dry toast. The meat of the 
chicken will make a very nice chicken salad for the family. Or, if 
the patient is sufficiently convalescent, make it into a Paulct a la 
ere me for his use. 

Paulet a la Creme. — Chop the cooked chicken to a powder, rub 
through a wire sieve, mix with a little cream and 2 well-beaten eggs, 
and season with salt. Put in a mould, press, strain, and serve it hot 
or cold, cut in slices. 

Gruels. 

Gruels are generally ordered when there is fever. And gruel 
properly made is nourishing and palatable, but if scorched or half 
raw and full of lumps it is most repulsive. Gruels are soothing reme- 
dies for bad colds. 

Indiau-nieal Gruel. — Take corn meal and sift it into a quart of 
slightly-salted boiling water, stirring until it is the consistency of 
cream. Let simmer one-half hour or longer. Put in a bit of butter 
if allowable ; add sugar and nutmeg if desired. A couple dozen 
raisins boiled in the gruel will improve the flavor. They need not be 
eaten. Another way is to serve the gruel in the proportions of one- 
half cup of the gruel and one-half cup of rich milk, heated together. 

Caudle. — Make a water gruel as above, or a Rice Caudle. Strain 
it and add a wineglassful of wine or brandy. Sweeten with loaf-sugar 
and grate in a little nutmeg. 

Rice Caudle. — Soak 2 tablespoonfuls of rice in cold water for an 
hour. Drain and simmer in a pint of sweet milk (the milk must be 
cold to start with) until it is a pulp that can be rubbed through a 
sieve. Then put pulp and milk in a saucepan, with a bruised clove, a 
bit of stick cinnamon, and loaf-sugar to ta.ste. Simmer ten minutes 
longer. If too thin, add a little more milk. Serve with very thin 
slices of dry toast. 

Rice Gruel. — Add 1 tablespoonful of rice to 3 cups of boiling 
water. When it has cooked for three-quarters of an hour, a cup of 
milk is added, with a teaspoonful of salt, and the mixture is boiled 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 565 

for a few minutes longer. Strain the gruel through a puree sieve, 
pressing through all the rice that will go. Let the gruel boil up for 
5 minutes after it is strained. Add sugar and nutmeg to the taste. 
Serve it with little slices of brown toast. Though this is a very pal- 
atable gruel, it is not so full of nourishment as a barley gruel, but it 
is valuable to persons suffering from intestinal diseases, who cannot 
take heavier food. 

Boiled Flour Gruel. — Tie a teacupful of flour closely in a cotton 
cloth. Boil 6 hours. When cool untie, and let it dry in a moderate 
oven. If the outer part remains soft remove carefully. When 
wanted for use, grate 2 tablespoonfuls of it, and rub smooth with a 
little cold milk. Stir it into 1 pint of boiling milk, cook 5 minutes, 
season with salt and sugar to taste. Very good for children and 
infants in summer diseases ; also for older invalids. 

Oatmeal Gi'uel (Milk). — Pour 1 pint of boiling water on 2 table- 
spoonfuls of oatmeal, add one-half pint milk and 1 teaspoonful salt, 
simmer in a double boiler for one-half hour, add some raisins and 
grated nutmeg if permissible, strain, sweeten with loaf sugar if liked. 

Oatmeal Gruel (Water). — One cupful oatmeal, 1 quart of water, 
boil gently until it thickens, rub through a sieve with a spoon, and 
serve hot ; sweeten if liked, add a pinch of salt. If too thick, thin 
with milk, water or broth. 

Milk Gruel. — One tablespoonful of Indian meal, 1 tablespoonful 
of wheat flour. Rub them smooth in a little cold milk or water. 
Pour into 1 quart of boiling milk, boil 10 minutes, season with butter 
and salt. Good for a cold. 

Chicken Oatmeal Gruel (a Couvalesceut's Food). — Boil a 
chicken till tender, remove the chicken, lay it one side for the well 
folks to eat, strain the stock. There should be about a pint. Add 
one-quarter cup of fine oatmeal and cook 1 hour. Strain again, add 
1 pint of milk, add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with inch cubes 
of bread browned in the oven. 

Arrowroot Gruel. — Make same as Rice Gruel, taking 1 ounce to 
1 pint of milk, together with 1 teaspoonful sugar and a pinch of salt. 

Cracker Gruel. — Roll until fine 6 soda crackers. Put 1 pint of 
cold water into a saucepan, when boiling add the rolled cracker. Do 
not stir, but boil 1 minute. Add sugar and nutmeg to taste, then 2 
tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Serve warm. 



666 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

Milk Porridge. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuLs of flour with a half cupful 
of cold milk, place a cupful and a half of milk over the fire in a 
saucepan ; stir in the flour and the milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and, if 
desired, sugar and nutmeg to suit the palate of the patient ; stir the 
porridge constantly until it begins to boil, then let it boil for 1 min- 
ute, and serve it. Some palates will not endure the sweetening and 
flavoring, but a simple bit of butter, and some like a dozen of raisins 
boiled in the milk ; not to eat, but for the flavor. Cornstarch is nice 
to use in place of flour. Another variation is to make as above, 
remove from the fire, and stir in the stiffly-beaten white of an egg. 

Baked Milk. — Put milk in an earthen jar, cover the opening 
with thick paper, and bake in a moderate oven until the milk is as 
thick as cream. This is often palatable to invalids who do not care 
for raw milk. 

Raisin Broth. — Boil 1 pound of raisins slowly in plenty of water 
for an hour. Make a thickening of cornstarch, moistened with cold 
water and a small piece of butter. Grate in a quarter of a nutmeg, 
and season with a tablespoonful of brandy or two of wine. Sweeten 
to the taste. Serve with a toasted cracker. This broth is both pala- 
table and nourishing. 

Bread Panada. — Six Boston crackers, scatter a little granulated 
sugar and a grain of salt over each cracker. Put them in a bowl and 
just cover with boiling water. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and 
add 2 tablespoonfuls of wine. Cover the dish and let it stand in a 
warm place until the crackers are soaked, but not broken. Serve in 
the bowl. Cut, or crumbed, stale bread may be used instead of 
crackers, or the bread may be toasted. 

Cracker Soup. — Put a bit of butter, the size of a hickory- nut, in 
a bowl, sprinkle in pepper and salt enough to make it palatable; 
break in crackers as for oyster soup, and turn on boiling water until 
the dish is filled. This is a substitute for oyster soup, and is a very 
nice dish. Use as much pepper as possible, if the disease is a sore 
throat. A person in perfect health will relish this dish. 

Solid Foods. 

Calves'-Foot Jelly. — Wash and clean the feet of a large calf. 
Put them to boil in <S quarts of water. When the water is half boiled 
away, strain through a sieve and set it to cool. When perfectly cold, 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 567 

remove every particle of fat from the top ; take up the jelly, removing 
any sediment that may be at the bottom. Set it over the fire again, 
L-tting it dissolve slowly without stirring ; before it is hot add the 
whites of 6 eggs beaten stiff, the juice of 6 lemons, and 8 tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar. Let it boil, skimming thoroughly until it 
is perfectly clear. Try a teaspoonful on a plate to cool. If not suf- 
ficiently firm, boil longer or add half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass 
dissolved in enough water to cover it. Put some of the yellow skins 
of the lemons in a jelly-bag and strain through. This gives the jelly 
a fine amber color. A stick, of cinnamon may be put in at the same 
time with the lemon juice; remove before straining. Fasten the 
jelly-bag (it should be flannel ; wring it out of hot water before using, 
to enable the liquid to run more freely) near the fire and do not stir 
nor press. Calves'-foot jelly can be made by simply sweetening, 
leaving out the lemon-juice and cinnamon. When for invalids, the 
physician frequently orders a wineglass of pale brandy or a pint of 
Madeira, white sugar in equal weight with the juice; boil until it will 
jelly. When cold, pour in glasses and seal. 

Mutton Jelly.^Six shanks of mutton, 3 pints of water, pepper 
and salt to taste, one-half pound lean beef, a crust of bread toasted 
brown. Wash the shanks well, after soaking in water several hours, 
and place all ingredients in a saucepan with the water and simmer 
gently for five hours. Season with salt. Strain, and when cold skim 
off the fat. Warm as much as is wanted at a time; or, serve cold. 

Meat Jelly. — Clear 1 quart of strong beef broth with white of 
egg. See " Clarifying Soups." Season with salt and pepper to taste, 
adding lemon-juice, cinnamon or other spices, if desired ; set away to 
harden in little cups. When ready to use, turn out on a pretty 
saucer, and serve with a saltine or a bit of toast. 

Chicken Jelly. — Chicken jelly may be used in a variety of ways. 
To make the jelly take a fowl weighing about 3 pounds. Clean and 
remove the skin and fat. Cut it into pieces, and put them into a 
saucepan, with 2 generous quarts of water, a bay leaf, and some pieces 
of celery. Cover and heat slowly up to the boiling-point. Let it 
simmer for 4 hours, then season with salt and strain into glasses, and 
set away to cool. When cold, remove the fat. This jelly may be 
used cold or heated, and served like soup. Heat a glass of the jelly 
and add a gill of sherry or Madeira wine, 1 teaspoonful of dissolved 



508 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

gelatine, some sugar and the juice of half a lemon. Pour the liquid 
jelly into small cujis, and set away to harden. This ni.ikes a very 
nourishing wine jelly. Pieces of the white meat of the fi)\vl may be 
cut fine and put into a jelly glass, and the liquid jelly poured over 
them. When cold, it is appetizing sliced and put between thin pieces 
of bread, buttered, and with the crust taken off, or with slices of jellied 
chicken with toasted crackers. 

Chicken Jelly. — II. Boil 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cold 
chicken in sufficient water to make a cupful of the whole ; thicken 
lightly with cornstarch in melted butter, pour over a slice of nicely 
toasted bread and serve hot. 

Scraped Raw Beef. — Take a tender piece of beef; cut across the 
grain ; scrape with a spoon until all the pulp is removed ; make a 
fresh surface by cutting off the scraped part with a thin, sharp knife; 
proceed in this way until all the meat is reduced to a pulp. If neces- 
sary, it may be eaten raw, spread very thin on slices of toast, or the 
pulp may be put in a hot frying-pan with a little butter, and allowed 
to barely cook through, stirring and turning constantly. A weak 
stomach will often retain scraped beef when it refuses all other solid 
foods. 

Kaw Beef Saudwiches. — Between two thin slices of toast place 
a small piece of juicy, fresh, tender raw beef, scraped fine and seasoned 
highly with salt and pepper. 

Hot Beef Toast. — A slice of bread toasted to a delicate brown 
and moistened with the juice from a hot, rare beefsteak is a little va- 
riation from the regulation toast that is appreciated by the invalid. 

Broiled Squabs, Quail, or Cliickeu. — Squabs or quails should 
be split down the back, wiped dry and broiled on both sides. Season 
lightly with salt, pepper and butter. The breast only of a spring 
chicken should be broiled. Season as above. 

Broiled Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads must be parboiled, then 
blanched in cold water and lemon juice. Broil until well browned. 
Salt and pepper. 

Creamed Sweetbreads. — No matter how you serve sweetbreads 
they must first be parboiled in clear water for 20 minutes. Then 
throw them into cold water and pick them into small pieces, rejecting 
the membrane. Put a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of fiour in a sauce- 
pan and add half a pint of milk, and when boiling add the sweetbreads' 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 569 

and half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and they 
are ready to serve. Sweetbreads are the pancreas of an animal and 
valuable for convalescents because they are a form of partially predi- 
gested food, and require but 1 hour in the stomach to complete the 
digestive process. 

Grilled Oysters. — Put about 6 unopened oysters on a gridiron ; 
as soon as they are partly open put into each a bit of fresh butter 
sprinkled with pepper; when they are quite open, which will take 
about 7 minutes, serve with them bread and butter and some slices 
of lemon 

Oyster Soups. — See Shell Fish. 

Invalid's Mutton Chop. — Cut the chop rather thin and cook it 
thoroughly over a clear coal fire. Remove the skin from it. 

Chopped Beefsteak for the Invalid. — A nutritious, stimulating 
food, more digestible than unchopped steak, and valuable in all sick- 
ness caused by mal-nutrition. Trim the fat from a pound of round 
or sirloin steak, cut the meat in inch pieces, put it into a meat-chopper 
or mincing machine and chop it for 5 minutes ; then take from the 
top of the meat the fine pulp which rises during the operation of the 
chopping; continue to chop and remove the pulp until only the fibre 
of the meat remains. Press the pulp into a round, flat cake, and broil 
it over a very hot fire for about 5 minutes on each side; season lightly 
with salt and cayenne pepper, and serve hot. 

Bacon for Invalids. — Slice the bacon very thin ; almost thin 
enough to look through ; broil on a gentle fire, turning very often ; 
broil until the corners commence to curl; then serve on dipped toast. 

Creamed Codfish. — Shred some codfish fine, put in cold water, 
let come slowly to a boil to freshen it. Boil a moment, turn off the 
water and add hot cream, seasoned lightly with pepper if allowable, 
or rich milk in which a small lump of butter has been dissolved. 
Split and toast a Boston cracker, or a half slice of baker's bread from 
which the crust has been removed, and turn the codfish over this. 

Ej»'8- on Toast. — A delicate way of preparing eggs is to poach 2 
very lightly, put them on slices of crisp toast and pour over them a 
coffee cupful of hot cream. Or, dip a crisp slice of toast, either of 
white or Graham bread, into boiling salted water. Take out and but- 
ter lightly, and put the poached eggs upon them. Less rich than 
with milk. See " Eggs " for other delicate methods of preparing eggs. 



670 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

Whipped Eg-j? on Toast. — Place 2 tablespoonfuLs of boiling water 
in a small saucepan on the stove. Break the egg in and stir briskly 
until the egg is set, but not at all hard. Serve on toast. This is no 
richer than the dropped egg. 

Egg- ill Milk. — Toast 2 thin slices of baker's bread, then butter, 
break 1 egg into a cup of milk and let the milk come to a scald, or 
till the white of the egg turns a milk white, add a pinch of salt, take 
the egg up carefully, so as not to break the yolk, and lay it on the 
toast, then pour the rest over it; it is a good dish for convalescents. 

How to Eiit a Raw Egg-. — Put the yolk of an egg into a dish 
with a teaspoonful of white sugar and a teaspoonful of orange or 
lemon juice and beat lightly together with a fork. Put the whites on 
a plate and add a pinch of salt. Then with a broad-bladed knife beat 
it to a stiff froth. Now as lightly as possible mix all together in the 
dish Transfer it to a clean tumbler, which it will nearly fill if prop- 
erly made. Any fruit juice maybe used in place of orange or lemon, 
or even brandy if the doctor has ordered it. 

Cream Toast for Invalids. — Heat some very thin cream to nearly 
the boiling point and salt well. Toast a slice of white or Graham 
bread a nice brown. Pour the cream over it and serve at once. Milk 
may be used instead of cream. No butter at first. 

Baked Potato. — Potatoes must be served baked, and as soon as 
they are done cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out the mealy centre 
into a hot bowl. Mash and add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream and a little 
salt. Beat the white of 1 egg stiff, and mix it with the potato. The 
egg may be omitted. 

Ouiou Gruel. — This is excellent for a cold. Slice down a few 
onions and boil them in a pint of new milk, stir them in a sprinkle of 
oatmeal and a very little salt ; boil till the onions are quite tender, 
then sup rapidly and go to bed. Onions slowly stewed in weak broth 
and eaten with a little pepper will be found to be an admirable article 
of diet for patients of studious and sedentary habits. 

Gluten Wafers — To 1 gill of cream add seven-eighths cup of 
gluten and 1 saltspoon of salt. Roll out about as thick as a silver 
dollar and bake. 

Sweet Dishes. 

Rice and Egg-. — Wash thoroughly half a cup of rice and put it 
into a double boiler with just enough water to cover it. When the 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 671 

rice is nearly done, if any water remains pour it off and add 1 cup of 
milk and a little salt. Let the rice cook slowly until done. Beat an 
egg thoroughly, and the last thing before taking the rice from the 
fire stir the egg into it as lightly as possible, and serve hot with 
sugar and cream. 

Sag'o Jelly. — Wash 1 large tablespoonful of sago, soak one hour, 
boil it in half cupful of water; with a pinch of salt, and a stick of 
cinnamon, until the grains grow clear ; rind of lemon may be substi- 
tuted for the cinnamon. Then add 1 pint of boiling milk, or milk 
and water, boil all together, sweeten and set away to cool. 

Oraiig-e Jelly. — Take half pint of orange juice, beat the white of 
an egg to a stiff froth and add the juice, with 1 teacupful of sugar, 
to a scant pint of hot water. Have previously soaked half package 
of gelatine in 1 teacupful of cold water, add this to the other ingre- 
dients. Set the dish containing the mixture over the fire in a pan of 
boiling water, and stir until it is thoroughly heated. Strain and fill 
in moulds, or keep the halves of the orange peel intact and fill the 
jelly in these. Set in a cool place to harden. 

Tapioca Jelly. — Soak the tapioca 5 hours, or over night. Sim- 
mer in a stew-pan until it becomes quite clear, then add the juice of 
a lemon or a glass of wine, with sugar to taste. Set in a cool place 
until ready to serve. 

Dyspeptic Custard. — This can be digested by weakened and 
dyspeptic stomachs : To half a pint of fresh milk heated lukewarm 
add 1 teaspoon of essence of pepsin; stir just enough to mix; let it 
stand till cold, serve plain or with cream and sugar and nutmeg ; 
wines or cordials can be added as you like. 

Rice Custard. — Boil in a double boiler 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 
in 2 cups of milk for nearly 3 hours, when the rice should be per- 
fectly soft. Pass this through a colander into a saucepan, and put 
on the back of the stove to keep hot while 2 eggs are being thor- 
oughly beatei into 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar and a pinch of 
salt. When this is light and the rice boils up, stir the eggs in slowly 
with a spoon for a minute or two till the whole is like a thick, soft 
custard. 

Ice Cream for an Invalid. — Sometimes the patient has a fancy 
for something cold, and in the later stages of convalescence an ice is 
not at all harmful. Slightly scald a pint of sweet cream, mix with it 



672 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

tliree-quarters of a cup of powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of vanilla 
flavoring and one of good brandy. Beat stiff the whites of two eggs, 
stir in lightly and freeze. Freeze in a little tin pail with a tightly- 
fitting cover. Set in a wooden pail and pack around with alternate 
layers of ice and salt, lay wet cloths over the top and set in a cool 
place. In about three-quarters of an hour open the can, cut away the 
frozen portion from the sides. In half an hour more it should be 
solid. 

Sterilized Milk for Cliildreu — Put the milk in clean bottles the 
size to have the contents used once. Then put the bottles into a 
large kettle or other metal receptacle. Pour cold water into the 
kettle until the water reaches the level of the milk in the bottles. 
Now close the mouth of each bottle with a plug of clean white 
cotton fibre. Heat the kettle and contents to 155 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Then remove from the fire and cover the whole affair snugly with a 
woolen cloth to keep from cooling at once. Leave half an hour, 
then take out the bottles and keep them in running water or in any 
cool place, leaving them still stoppered with the plug of cotton. The 
flexible wooden stoppers used with some kinds of patent glass jars 
would answer in place of cotten, the object being to exclude air, dust 
and germs. Be careful not to heat above 155 degrees, or the milk 
will not taste quite right. In practice it will be found a good idea to 
make easier the circulation of the hot water by placing a wire frame 
an inch or two in height in the kettle beneath the bottles. Milk 
carefully treated by the above process may be warranted free from 
disease germs, and it will keep sweet about 24 hours. 

Meuu for Baby. — The average healthy child of 14 months and 
upward is better for a carefully chosen variety in its diet. The fol- 
lowing bills of fare will answer for any healthy child of from 14 
months up to 2^^ years of age: 

1. Milk to drink. Half a saucer of oatmeal with a little butter 
and salt. Half a saucer of oatmeal with cream and sugar. A few 
teaspoonfuls of strained prune juice. 2. Thoroughly mashed potato, 
with a little butter, cream and salt. A thick strip of rare beefsteak 
to suck (should be allowed only the juice). A few teaspoonfuls of 
finely scraped apple. Milk to drink. 3. Half a soft boiled egg. 
Milk toast. Baby tea — made of milk and warm water in equal pro- 
portions, with sugar and a drop of vanilla. 4. Bread and milk. A few 



COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 573 

teaspoonfuls fine grained apple sauce. Half slice of bread with beef- 
steak gravy. 5. Half saucer of rice with butter and salt. Half 
saucer rice with cream and sugar. Two or 3 teaspoonfuls of orange 
juice. Milk to drink. 6. Half teacup of beef tea. Crackers and 
milk. Third of a slice bread with pure maple syrup. 7. A little 
strained fig syrup (if constipated) made by boiling figs in water with 
sugar. Mush and milk. Small slice bread and butter without crust. 
8. A teaspoonful of the breast of chicken or turkey minced very 
fine. Toast and milk. Small lump of sugar for dessert. 9. Oat- 
meal, crackers and milk. Baked potato, cream and salt. Whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored. 10. Half slice buttered toast, with- 
out crust. Bread and milk. Taste of custard, wine, jelly or melted 
vanilla or chocolate ice cream. 

Tlie Medicine Closet. — Every well regulated household has a 
medicine closet. This does not mean that a whole cupboard out of 
the scant supply of the average flat must be given over to medicine 
bottles and plasters. 

There are on sale at all furnishing stores and at most of the dry- 
goods shops medicine cabinets, varying in size and in make, but all 
of them falling within the average housekeeper's means. One of 
these should be fastened out of reach of the children in mother's room. 

The properly equipped medicine cabinet is at least half closed and 
locked. In this compartment the poisons which are household 
remedies shcld be kept. Ammonia and alcohol belong to this class 
as well as laudanum and arnica. Salves, lotions and the like may be 
kept on the unguarded shelf compartment. 

Antidotes for poisons, liniments for stings, cuts and bruises, 
plasters and plenty of material for bandages should be kept in the 
closet. Witch hazel, for sores and burns, should not be forgotten, 
nor the helpful, simple soda, nor potash for gargling. It is an excel- 
lent idea to have tacked to the door of the cabinet a typewritten list 
of things to do and remedies to give in emergencies. In it also 
should be found the temporary relief for a severe headache, the 
mustard for footbath, or the invaluable plaster, for which, however, 
might be substituted the more convenient mustard leaves; vaseline 
or pure sweet oil, which would be found to be invaluable for burns; 
oil of cloves, seidlitz powders and citrate of magnesia. 



POISONS AND ANTIDOTES. 



Acetate of Lead (or sugar of 
leadj. — Give Epsom salts or dilute sul- 
phuric acid, provoke vomiting, give 
bland licjuids, give dose of caslor oil. 

Acids (sulphuric, nitric, muriatic 
and oxalic). — Give an alkali, strong, 
clean soapsuds, a piece of soap will do, 
provoke vomiting, give bland liquids, 
rest patient, relieve pain by opium ; 
if faint, stimulate, feed by enema. 

Aconite. — Provoke vomiting, 
stimulate well, keep up the breathing, 
give digitalis and atropine. 

Alcohol.— Provoke vomiting, give 
hartshorn and water. 

Alkalies (harsthorn, soda, potash 
and lye).— Give vinegar or other 
acid, provoke vomiting, give bland 
liquids, secure rest, relieve pain by 
opium, and stimulate if necessary. 

Arsenic (paris green. Fowler's 
solution, etc.). — Provoke vomiting, 
give dose castor oil, secure rest and 
stimulate if necessary. 

Bland Liquids— Are milk, gruel, 
raw eggs, oil of some kind, barley 
water, mucilage, etc. 

Carbolic Acid (Epsom salts, oil 
and glycerine). — Produce vomiting 
and stimulate. 

Decayed Meat or Vegetables. 
— Provoke \omiting, wash out the 
stomach, give a purgative, give an 
enema, give powdered charcoal and 
peroxide of hydrogen. 

Iodine. — Provoke vomiting, give 
starch and water, give bland fluids. 

Mercury (corrosive sublimate, 
antimony or tartar emetic). — Pro- 
\oke vomiting, give some infusion 
containing tannic acid, give raw eggs 
and milk, give dose of castor oil and 
stimulate if necessary. 

Nitrate of Silver (lunar caustic). 
— Give strong salt and water, pro- 
voke vomiting, repeat many times. 
671 



Opium (laudanum, morphine, 
paregoric, etc.). — Provoke vomiting 
repeatedly, give strong coffee or tea 
in large quantities, keep up the 
breathing, walk patient around, do 
not allow him to go to sleep. 

Phosphorus.— Provoke vomiting 
by repeated five-grain doses of sul- 
phate of copper, give dose of mag- 
nesia, but no oil. 

Poisonous Gases. — Fresh air, 
oxygen, artificial respiration, nitro- 
glycerine, stimulation. 

Of course it would be decidedly 
dangerous for any one except a physi- 
cian to meddle with the drugs men- 
tioned as antidotes. When poison 
has been taken, a doctor should be 
sent for in hot-haste. A stomach 
pump may be required, even in what 
seems a simi)le case to treat, and 
patients frequently require an anti- 
dote or stimulant administered hypo- 
dermatically. A i)hysician is certainly 
the first necessity, but while awaiting 
his arrival it is highly necessary not 
one instant of time should be lost, 
lest the patient soon sink beyond as- 
sistance. Something may be done in 
every case if the proper method be 
understood. 

To provoke vomiting, mix a table- 
spoonful of ground mustard in a pint 
of lukewarm water (give warm water 
alone while mixing the mustard and 
water), or a teaspoonful of powdered 
ipecac, or a tablesj oonful of the 
syrup, or a quicker and j-impler way, 
thrust the finger down tb.e throat. 

Paste up a printed list of poisons 
and antidotes on the inside of some 
closet door. 

Toadstool (hemlock, tobacco, 
etc.). — Provoke vomiting and give a 
purge, stimulate well and keep up ih» 
breathing, preferably with oattery 



Scientific Hygienic Cookery. 

KATE FIELD has a word of advice for the coming woman. 
" Dear Graduates" (she says, in addressing a class of col- 
lege girls) : " Cooking is the alphabet of your happiness. 
I do not hesitate to affirm that this Republic, great as her 
necessities are in many directions, needs cooks more than all else. 
The salvation of the national stomach depends upon them. We are 
a nation of dyspeptics, and Americans are dyspeptics because they 
eat the wrong foods, badly cooked, which they drown in ice water. 
They are dyspeptics, because our women don't know the rudiments 
of their business, and resign their kitchens into the hands of incom- 
petent servants, of whom they are afraid, and whose impudence they 
frequently endure through sheer helplessness. Be cooks first, and 
anything you please afterward. On you posterity waits." 

In the A, B, C, of a girl's life Cooking really comes first. It is 
the beginning of the alphabet of happiness. Remember the table is 
the hub upon which the health of the family revolves. Doctors are 
turned from our medical schools by the hundreds to thrive off 
badly-fed people. Ruskin tells us that a nation's wealth depends 
entirely upon the number of healthy individuals the nation can show. 
If this be true, then are we poor indeed in America. 

A person who is insufficiently nourished is in condition to accept 
and keep almost any disease that is flying in the atmosphere. We 
are told that if our stomach is in a healthy condition, we need not fear 
cholera or yellow fever — two dread diseases. We are also told that 
the well fed, whose bodies are in a perfect condition, are safe in 
typhus regions; and we do know that the happiness of the individual 
is largely due to the condition of his stomach. Edwin Russell made 
a very truthful remark when he said that " the physique has much 
more to do with the success of the man than his actual mental power, 
and where the two are combined success is certain." It requires but 
little observation to note that the very brainy man, with a poor and 
insufficiently-nourished body, lasts but a little while. In sharp con- 
trast to his short career is the well-fed and energetic man whose body 
is equal in development, and who goes on to comfortable old age. 

Boys and girls, at the age of entering college, break down, not 
having the physique to go on with their studies, although their brain 

575 



676 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 

powers arc perfectly developed. 71ie mother, in building this foun- 
dation, has forgotten to j)ut in the lasting stones. Not because she 
wishes to do it, but because cooking has fallen to the share of the 
ignorant, and she has been willing to trust her family in their hands; 
and as a result, when the boys or girls enter the work of life, they 
enter it tired and worn, and do not find themselves at forty with a 
Gladstone physique at eighty. Not rich or costly dishes, but simple 
food so well prepared that the satisfied body shall not think of itself 
from one meal to another. It is the discomfort and hankering of an 
ill-fed stomach that drives some men to drink and others to the 
insane asylums. 

Mrs. Rorer says that " in the twentieth century our cooks will 
be college graduates, women of position. All bills of fare will be 
made out with an object. The right and proper proportion of all 
materials will be converted into each meal, so that the muscles, bones, 
and nerves will be equally fed. And if for any reason a child be 
born whose equilibrium is not perfect, a line of diet will be imme- 
diately prescribed to square him up, as it were." 

The classes that fill our insane asylums do it not so much because 
they are overworked, but because their food has not been studied in 
accordance with their duties. It is suicidal for a man in an ofifice to 
eat food that would be the proper sort for a farmer, and vice versa. 
To the really civilized mind, the hygiene of the stomach is the hygiene 
of the mind and soul, and the art of cooking one of the greatest of all 
arts. While the highest regions of social and intellectual achievement 
are open to women, they could not bring their power to bear more 
effectually than by seeing to it that the dinners of their husbands and 
brothers are well cooked. 

Health, appetite, digestion, and good temper are essential to suc- 
cess in nearly all the undertakings of life, including success in making 
love. But how can there be good health and good temper under the 
constant and depressing infliction of badly cooked, indigestible meals ? 
Napoleon is said to have lost the battle of Waterloo because of a fit 
of indigestion, after a hastily swallowed dinner. The pangs of his 
stomach prevented him from making his combinations on the field 
with his accustomed skill and rapidity. The people whose meals, 
however simple, are wholesome and well cooked, will fight almost to 
the death for their civil and political rights. It is badly cooked and 



SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 577 

insufficient food which, as much as anything else, swells the ranks of 
wild-eyed Anarchism. Pure food and good cooking are, therefore, 
essential means not only of promoting economy in living, and har- 
mony in the domestic circle, but of preserving the general peace of 
society. 

" It is stated on authority, that three-fourths of the diseases which 
afflict mankind have their origin in innutritious and unwholesome 
food. It is also stated that, other things being equal, man's power of 
resistance to evil is in direct proportion to his physical vigor. If 
these two statements are true, no other plea is needed in favor of 
wholesome food." 

Hygienic cookery implies a knowledge of the waste and repair in 
the human system, and the relative value of various food elements, 
and the chemical changes they undergo during the process of diges- 
tion. Heat is required to maintain the body at a normal tempera- 
ture. This heat is supplied by carbon in our food. If the food is 
deficient in carbon, we become thin and cold; on the other hand, if 
carbon is supplied in excess, the body becomes fat, and is easily over- 
come by heat. Skin diseases, also, and those of an inflammatory 
nature, are often produced by an excessive carbonaceous diet. 

A highly carbonaceous diet should be avoided in warm weather, 
if we would escape the depressing effects of the heated term. The 
lumberman, daily exposed to the rigors of a northern winter, would 
almost perish without it. Carbon is to the human body what fuel is 
to the fire ; and though necessary to the life of every man, woman, 
and child, the amount required by each varies with the season of the 
year, the occupation, or individual powers of assimilation. There is, 
also, a constant loss of brain and nervous force and energy in propor- 
tion to the demands made upon each of us by our life's work. The 
diet of professional men, students, teachers, and all brain-workers, 
should be simple, nutritious, easy of digestion, and rich in the phos- 
phates, which build up brain and nerve. 

Although cheese is stronger in phosphates than any other article 
of food, it is too concentrated to be indulged in freely by persons of 
sedentary habits. Cheese and beans are pre-eminently the food of 
the working-man, the latter containing twenty-four per cent, of nitro- 
genous or muscle-making matter, and cheese sixty-five per cent. It 
is obvious that the large proportion of nitrates requires to be supple- 
37 



678 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 

mented with food of which carbon is the chief constituent. Besides 
the carbonates, which supply fuel, the nitrates, which repair muscular 
waste, and the phosphates, brain and nervous force, there are other 
necessary, though less important substances, which go to renew the 
fourteen elements of which the human body is composed ; as lime, 
potash, sulphur, etc. It is the primary object of hygienic cookery to 
supply these elements in the right proportion, and in a condition in 
which they may be most easily assimilated. The marked absence of 
any of the more important, results in weakened vitality, and the ex- 
cess, by overtaxing the various functions of the body in the effort to 
dispose of what is nothing more than waste matter. 

Fat and heat-producing materials are found abundantly in rice, 
cornmeal, starch, honey, cream, sugar, butter, etc. ; and in lesser pro- 
portion in nearly all food products in their wholesome state. Much 
of the nutritive property of food depends upon the manner of cooking. 

All meats not intended for soups should be exposed to intense 
heat for the first few minutes of the cooking process, to coagulate the 
albumen on the outside, which prevents the escape of the juices, and, 
therefore, of flavor and nutrition. To boil meat, immerse in boiling 
water and boil rapidly for fifteen minutes, then stew gently, but 
steadily, until tender. Long-continued hard boiling toughens the 
fibre of the tenderest meat, and renders it indigestible and flavorless, 
since rapid evaporation involves a loss of flavor. If both the broth 
and meat are to be used — that is, if a stew is to be made — the 
process should be entirely different. For stewing, the meat should 
be cut into small pieces and put into cold water, in order that as much 
of the juice and natural material as possible may be dissolved. The 
temperature of the water should then be raised to about 180 degrees 
Fahrenheit, and kept there for some hours. Treated in this way, the 
broth will be rich and the meat tender and juicy. If the water be 
made much hotter than 180 degrees Fahrenheit, the result will be 
dry, hard fibres. 

Meats to be baked may have a carving-fork thrust into the fat 
portion, where the juices do not flow, and be held over a bed of hot 
coals or a gasoline burner, until the outside is seared. Continue the 
process of cooking in the oven at a lower temperature. Turn and 
baste frequently, and serve rare, if the roast is beef; pork requires 
always to be thoroughly cooked. 



SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 579 

All vegetables should be put ou to cook in boiling water, with 
salt, except corn and beans, on which salt has a hardening effect, and 
boiled rapidly and constantly until done. Green peas, and corn when 
cut off the cob, parsnips, summer squash, and string beans, should 
not have more water put on them than will boil away by the time 
they are done, as the liquor contains a large part of the nutriment, 
which would be lost if poured off. Corn boiled more than 20 minutes 
is rendered tough and difficult of digestion. The time for cooking 
other vegetables varies somewhat with age, variety, etc., and can only 
be determined by experiment. Too long cooking renders the more 
delicate varieties insipid and flavorless ; too little does not secure the 
proper bursting of the starch cells necessary to easy digestion. Rice 
and cereals require thorough cooking. Fruits should be closely 
covered and cooked slowly until just done, not longer, as their deli- 
cacy would be impaired. 

Experiments indicate that roasted meat is more completely di- 
gested than boiled meat. The smaller the cut to be roasted, the hotter 
should be the fire. An intensely hot fire makes a thick crust on the 
outside of the roast, by coagulation, and prevents the drying up of 
the juices inside. The same rule holds good for broiling. A steak 
exposed to an intense heat for ten minutes will be thoroughly cooked, 
and yet have the desirable rare, juicy appearance when cut. 

Fatty Foods. 

Many physicians are ordering thin bread and butter for delicate 
patients, especially those suffering from dyspepsia, consumption, and 
anaemia, or any who need to take on flesh. This thin bread and butter 
insensibly induces persons to eat much more butter than they have 
any idea of. This is one advantage, and a great one, in the feeding 
of invalids, for they are thereby provided with an excellent form of 
the fat which is so essential for their nutrition, in a way that lures 
them to take it without rebellion. But the thin bread and butter has 
another advantage, equally great; it is very digestible, and easily 
assimilated. Fresh butter, made from cream, is very much more 
digestible when spread upon thin slices of bread, than the same 
amount of cream, eaten as cream per sr, would be. 

Very few housekeepers can realize the nutritive value of cream 
and understand its superiority to any other solid fats, in permitting 



680 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 

the gastric juice to mix with it in the most perfect manner, ;;nd in 
this way aiding and hastening digestion. It is invaluable in the case 
of invalids, for it serves as nutriment in a very available form. It is 
superior to butter, because it contains more volatile oil than butter 
made from it. It is frequently ordered by physicians for persons 
consumptively inclined, for those with feeble digestions, or aged 
persons, and for those who suffer from impaired circulation, cold feet, 
and who feel chilly from want of nutriment. No other article of food 
gives such satisfactory results. 

Many complain that they cannot drink milk without its disagree- 
ing with them. The common reason why milk is not digested readily 
is that it is taken too rapidly into the stomach, where it becomes one 
solid mass, difficult of digestion. If it is sipped, it is so divided on 
reaching the stomach that, while coagulated by the gastric juices, 
instead of being in one hard mass, it is in the form of a sponge, and 
in this form more readily acted upon throughout by the digestive 
fluids. 

Fruits. 

There is nothing so brightens the complexion and heightens the 
color as a diet of sweet, winy fruits. (Of course not forgetting a 
.system of baths and exercise.) Buy grapes, peaches, and plums by 
the box, and eat them before they have time to spoil. When these 
are gone, get sweet oranges and tart grape fruit. It is a mistake to 
keep fruit. When a peach has lost its bloom, or a bunch of grapes 
has a brown, dried stem, it is no longer a beautifying or vitalizing 
food. 

" Garden-of-Eden breakfasts " have no rival as natural cosmetics. 
All manner of fruits, with just enough of some daintly-cooked cereal 
to render the repast sufficient, will give to any devotee of this regimen 
a complexion that will be the envy of the less fortunate. Unite to 
this fare such beverages as orangeade, lemonade, fruit juices, root- 
beers, and cereal coffees, and the day is well begun. 

Figs, dates, prunes, stewed currants, and even dried apples can be 
made to do duty for this purpose, and it is surprising what an amount 
of nourishment and working strength can be extracted from a fruit 
diet. 

Apples, oranges, shaddocks, bananas and canned fruit, of course, 
are excellent fare for Spring, but the cheaper dried fruits are by no 



SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 581 

means to be despised. In England this regimen, with the addition 
of brown bread and butter or cream, is followed all the year round 
with the children of upper-class families, and the Scotch choose oat- 
meal for a similar use. Our own western children are proof of what 
good flesh and bone can be built on a steady diet of cornmeal. Oat- 
meal is a little too heavy, and rice, cracked or whole, hominy or 
yellow cornmeal should be substituted for breakfast. The more of 
these dishes, served with fruit and cream, that are eaten throughout 
the day, the sooner will all thoughts of illness be driven away. 

The orange fad is to be encouraged as most satisfactory in its 
results. Orange juice, whether sweet or sour, is recommended by 
medical authorities as a balm to the digestion and a stimulus to the 
entire system, unequaled by any tonic. Women who have given 
oranges a fair and free trial, are willing to exhibit their blooming 
cheeks and clear eyes as evidence in support of the theory, and those 
who have pushed the orange cure to its limit, recommend the juice 
above all as a remarkable sedative. It is nerves that prey upon the 
American woman's system, and the orange reaches and steadies her 
tingling brain fibres. 

To take up this diet in earnest, five or six oranges are consumed 
in a day. They must be perfectly ripe, and the juice only must be 
used, all other portions being hopelessly indigestible. 

Nothing, hold the orange eaters, so tones up the system after a 
tedious day, takes the dark lines from about the eyes, and keeps the 
digestion perfect, as oranges, taken in place of tea, coffee, or other 
stimulants. Take two or three in the morning immediately after 
rising, at midday two more, and half an hour before dinner take the 
remainder of the half dozen. 

An apple diet is also one of the easiest foods for the stomach to 
deal with, the whole process of digestion only consuming eighty-five 
minutes. The acid of ripe apples, either cooked or raw, helps to 
digest meat, to stimulate the liver, and neutralize noxious matters 
that are likely to produce skin eruptions. Apples, eaten with meat 
in place of potatoes, are a golden food. The salts and wine sweeten 
the stomach, the phosphorus is a nerve-builder, and women of all 
ages, since Eve's days, liked to believe that the " food of the gods" 
imparted its delicate white to the flesh. Why not ? Beef-eaters and 
wine-drinkers are red. 



iREMEDIAL FOODg. 

A table giving the remedial qualities of the comthon fruits and 
vegetables is herewith appended : — 



Celery for any form of rheumatism and 
nervous dyspepsia. 

Lettuce for insomnia. 

Water-cress for scurvy. 

Onions are almost the best nervine known. 
Use for insomnia, for coughs and colds, and 
as a complexion curer. Eaten every other 
day, they soon have a clearing and whitening 
effect on the complexion. 

Spinach for gravel. 

Asparagus to induce perspiration. 

Carrots for suffering from asthma. 

Turnips for nervous disorders and for 
scurvy. 

Raw beef proves of great benefit to per- 
sons of frail constitution, and to those suf- 
fering from consumption. It is chopped 
fine, seasoned with salt, and heated by plac- 
ing it in a dish in hot water. It assimilates 
rapidly and affords the best nourishment. 

Eggs contain a large amount of nutriment 
in a compact, quickly available form. Beaten 
up raw with sugar they are used to clear 
and strengthen the voice. With sugar and 
lemon juice the beaten white of egg is used 
to relieve hoarseness. 

Cranberries for erysipelas are used exter- 
nally as well as internally. 

Cranberries eaten raw are one of the finest 
tonics and appetizers ki.own. 

In cases of yellow cr typhoid fever, cran- 
berries are almost indispensable as a tcnic 
and to assist in clearing the system of the 
harmful bacteria. 

For some forms of dyspepsia there is no 
more simple and effective remedy than raw 
cranberries. Carry a supply in the pocket 
and eat them frequently during the day. 
They will cure headache as well. 

People who are subject to biliousness will 
find that with cranberries a part of each 
day's food they will be free from such at- 
tacks. 

Honey is wholesome, strengthening, cleans- 
ing, healing and nourishing. 

Fresh ripe fruits are excellent for purify- 
ing the blood and toning up the system. 

582 



Sour oranges are highly recommended for 
rheumatism. 

Watermelon for epilepsy and for yellow 
fever. 

Lemons for feverish thirs.t in sickness, 
biliousness, low fevers, rheumatism, colds, 
coughs, liver complaints, etc. 

Blackberries for diarrhcta. 

Tomatoes are a powerful aperient for the 
liver, a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and 
for indigestion. 

Tomatoes are invaluable in all conditions 
in which the use < f calomt-1 is indicated. 

Figs are aperient and wholesome. They 
are said to be valuable as a food for those 
suffering from cancer. They are used ex- 
ternally as well as internally. 

Bananas are useful as a food for those 
suffering from chronic diarrhoea. 

Pieplant is wholesome and aperient ; is 
excellent for rheumatic sufferers and useful 
for purifying the blood. 

Peanuts for indigestion. They are especially 
recommended for corpulent diabetes. Pea- 
nuts are made into a wholt.some and nutri- 
tious soup, are browned and used as a coffee, 
are eaten as a relish simj)ly baked, or are 
prepared and served as salted almonds. 

Apples are useful in nervous dyspepsia ; 
they are nutritious, n;edicinal and vitalizing; 
they aid digestion, clear the voice, correct 
the acidity cf the stomach, are valuable in 
rheumatism, insomnia, and liver trcuble. An 
apple contains as much nutriment as a 
potato, in a pleasanter, more wholesome form. 

Grapes dissolve and dislodge gra\eland 
calculi, and bring the stomach and bowels 
to a healthy condition. 

Ripe pineapples have been put upon the 
list of foods especially healthful for pers( ns 
troubled with indigestion, the juice being 
especially valuable in such cases. Shred 
with a silver fork, and reject all the indi- 
gestible core The juice of a ripe ] ineap]'le 
is an almost invaluable remedy for dij^h- 
theria, the acid seeming to dissolve the 
strangling growth in the throat. 



• ( QJ 





In arranging a menu it will be well to take 
for a motto the remark of Socrates when 
looking on at an auction : " How many things 
there are which I do not need !" A good soup — one 
dainty relish, such as celery, radishes, caviare sand- 
wiches or olives ; a fish or meat, one or two vegeta- 
bles and a dessert, is a bill of fare within the com- 
pass of any good manager. 

Two or three dozen tart shells, kept in a covered tin pail, should 
be in store for " emergency teas." Crisp them in the oven, then let 
them get cold before filling. 

With these, cookies, varieties of pickles and canned fruit, jelly, a 
few cans of fresh and corned beef or salmon, a fruit cake, and what 
can be gathered from the garden, appetizing dinners and teas can be 
quickly improvised for unexpected guests. 



MEALS FOR TO-DAY. 



BREAKFAST. 

Stewed fruit. Rice muffins. 

Soft boiled eggs. 

Thin bread and butter. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Gateau of cold meat. 

Baked potatoes (in their jackets). 

Moulded prunes. 

Cocoanut buns. Tea. 



Dried green pea soup. 

Ragout of rabbit. Sweet pickles. 

Potatoes (a la creme). 

Parsnips (American fashion). 

Amber pudding. 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Fruit salad. 

Meat croquettes. Lyonnaise potatoes. 

French coffee cake. 

Coffee. 



Creamed shrimps on toast. 

Brown bread. Brandied peaches. 

Cocoa. 



Fried chicken with rice. 

Flaked potatoes. Celery salad. 

Fig pudding — egg sauce. 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 



Sliced oranges. 

Hominy flakes and cream. 

Lyonnaise tripe. Thin corn cake. 

German coffee. 



Chicken in jelly. 
Boston brown bread and butter. 
Dutch apple cake. Tea. 

583 



6U 



BILLS OF FARE. 



DINNER. 

Mock bisque soup. 

Oyster pie. 

Scalloped sweet potatoes Turkish pilar. 

Sweet pickled peaches. 

Cabinet pudding, epicures' sauce. 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Apple sauce. 

Liver croquettes. Fried potatoes. 

Coffee. Rolls. 

DINNER. 

French pea soup. 

Breaded veal cutlets Stuffed potatoes 

Cabbage salad. 

Prune compote. 

SUP'PER. 

Creamed Hsh. Fish kartoffel. 

Hot beet salad. 

Graham muffins. Scalloped apples. 

Tea. 



Johnny cake. Apple saUce. 
Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Stewed knuckle of veal. 

Mashed potatoes. Pickles. 

Friar's omelet. Tea. 

SUPPER. 

Shepherd's pie. 

Stewed pears. Cup custard. 

Yorkshire tea cakes. Chocolate. 



BREAKFAST. 

Milk tapioca. 
Kidneys and tomatoes. Potato chips. 

MEALS FOR EACH 

Sunday. 

BREAKFAST. 



BREAKFAST. 

Cold cracked wiieat and cream. 

Liver and bacon. Baked potatoes. 

Grandmother's griddle cakes. 

Bread and butter. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Veal stew. Mashed potatoes. 

Asparagus. 

Rlmbarb blanc mange. 

SUPPER. 

Toast. 

Strawberries and cream. 

Chocolate. New York buns" 



Fruit. 
Wheat germ. Cream and Sugar. 
Breaded Calves' brains. 

Creamed potatoes. 
Muffins. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Clear soup 

Baked white fish. 

Broiled spring chicken. Green peas. 

Mashed potatoes. Celery. 

Lettuce with French dressing. 

Cheese straws. 
Orange sherbet. Cake. 

Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Salad of cliicken and peas. 

Bread and butter sandwiches. 

Chocolate. Jumbles. 

BREAKFAST. 

Maple syrup. Cream biscuit. 

Pate de fois gras. Radishes. 

Coffee. 



DAY OF THE WEEK. 

I DINNER. 

I ^ (Cold.) 

I Cold deviled fish. Brown bread. 

j Rolled shoulder of mutton. 

String beans, Frencli dressing. 
Mayonnaise of tomatoes. 
Wafers. 
Fruit jelly. Spongecake. 

SUPPER. 

Eggs, Swiss style. Lettuce. 

Date sandwiches. 

Oatmeal snaps. Cocoa. 

Boiled rice. String beans. 

Tomato scallop. 

Salad lettuce, French dressing. 

Rocquefort cheese. Wafers. 

Omelette a la Celestine. 

Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Egg salad, with Mayomiaise. 

Thin brown bread and butter. 

Raspberries and cream. 

White cake. 

Tea. 



BILLS OF FARE. 



585 



Monday. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

I'arinose. Sugar and cream. 

Codfish and cream. 

Baked potatoes. 

Toast. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Cold slices veal loaf. 

Onion Sandwiches. 

Stewed Fruit. Wafers. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Puree of pea soup. 

Ragout of lamb. Currant jelly. 

Stuffed potatoes. 

Boiled rice. 

Cucumber salad. 

Wafers. Cheese. 

Sliced peaches. 

Coffee. 



Baked tomatoes stuffed with rice. 

Beet salad. 

Lemon pie. Cheese. Fruit. 

Black coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal, with milk. 

Fried home-made sausages. Wheat 

Cakes. 

Bread and butter. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Cheese omelet. Yeast puffs. 

Fruit. Salad. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Salmis of pork. Nudle timbales. 

Potatoes. Pudding a la Rothschild. 



BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Cracked wheat and milk. 

Beefsteak witli tomatoes. Potato balls. 

Old Virginia corn bread. Cafe au lait. 

Tiie picayune. 

Lunch. i 

Meat souffle. Scalloped potatoes. | 

Muffins. Buttermilk. { 

DINNER. 

Mutton broth. 
Fricassee chicken. Potatoes. 

Green peas. 

Boiled corn. 

String beans. 



Tuesday. 

BREAKFAST. 

Sliced oranges. 
Broiled ham. Potato chips. 

Muffins. Veal cutlets. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Tomato soup. 

Roast loin of mutton. 

Celery salad. Oyster patties. 

Creamed potatoes. Boiled onions. 

Lemon pudding. Fruits. Coffee. Nuts. 

SUPPER. 

Beef tongue. Chicken croquettes. 

French rolls. Lemon jelly. 

Tea chocolate. 



BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Wheatlet. Sugar and cream. 

Hash on toast. 

.Scrambled eggs. 

Rolls. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Rice croquettes. 

Brown bread and butter. 

Baked apples. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Celery soup. 

Hamburg steaks. Brown sauce. 

Mashed potatoes. 

Boiled onions. 

Lettuce salad. 

Wafers. Olives. Cheese. 

Baked custards. 

Coffee. 



^A^ednesday. 

BREAKFAST. 

Rolled avena. 

Fish with cream. 

Potato cakes. 

Rice muffins. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Stuffed tomatoes. Cream sauce. 

Brown bread and buttei. 

Fruit. Wafers. 

Egg lemonade. 



586 



BILLS OF FARE. 



DINNER. 

Cream of cauliflower soup. 

Veal croquettes. Tomato sauce. 

Boiled potatoes. 

String beans. 
Cucumber salad. 



Wafers. 



Cherry water ice. 
Coffee. 



Cheese. 



BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Germea, with sugar and cream. 

Broiled beefsteak. 

Hashed brown potatoes. 

Waffles. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Bouillon. Meat souffle. 

Banana fritters. Fruit. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Vermicelli soup. 
Roast lamb, mint sauce. 

Boiled potatoes. 
Green peas. Stewed celery. 

Cucumber salad. Wafers. 
Charlotte Russe. Cheese. Coffee. 



Thursday. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Wheatlet. Cream. 

Hamburg steaks. Brown sauce. 

Gems. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Frizzled beef Corn pudding. 

Coffee. 

Compote of cherries. 

DINNER. 

Cream of beet soup. 

Broiled steak. Mashed potatoes. 

Onions. Cream sauce. String beans. 

Salad of cress and lettuce. 

Wafers. Cheese. 

Peach sponge 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Stewed evaporated apricots. 

Fish cakes. 

Boiled eggs. Hominy fritters. 

Minced veal on toast. 

Crumpets. 

Coffee. 



LUNCH. 

Creana of celery soup. 

Ragout of veal. 

Rice, Spanish style. 

DINNER. 

Oysters. 

Giblets with rice. 

Olives. Radishes. 

Salmon a la Creole. 

Potato balls, maitre d'hote) butter. 

Chicken fricassee. 

String beans. 

Roast leg of mutton. Turnips. 

Lettuce salad. 

Bohemian cream. 

Coffee. 



Friday. 




BREAKFAST. 




Fruit. 




Farinose. 




Hominy croquettes. 




Bacon. Toast. 


Coffee 


LUNCH. 




Fried sweetbreads. 


Peas 


Fruit. Wafers. 


Tea. 


DINNER. 




Split pea soup. 




Roast lamb. Mint sauce 


New potatoes. 




Asparagus salad. 




Waffles. 


Coffee 


Cornstarch pudding. 




Sauce. 




Coffee. 





BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal and milk. 

Broiled trout. French fried potatoes. 

Square muffins. Cafe au lait. 

The picayune. 

LUNCH. 

Codfish balls. Crackers. Olives. 
Peach jam. Cake. Iced lemonade. 

DINNER. 

Crab gumbo. 

Court bouillon. Mashed potatoes. 

Baked redfish. Shrimp jamalaya. 

Olives. Green peas. 
Stewed corn and milk. Butter beans. 

Tomato and green pepper salad. 

Queen's pudding. Vanilla ice. Fruit. 

Coffee. 



BILLS OF FARE. 



687 



Saturday. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Granuia. Cream and sugar. 

Calves' liver and bacon. 

Potato croquettes. 

Entire wheat muffins. Coffee. 



Deviled eggs. French toast. 

Shredded oranges. Angel food. 

Tea. 

DINNER. 

Consomme soup. 

Hamburg steak. Fried onions. 

Mashed potatoes. Vegetable oysters. 

Celery salad. 

Cracker fruit pudding. Wine sauce. 

Coffee. 



BREAKFASf. 

Fruit. 

Wheatlet. Sugar and cream. 

Liver and bacon. 

French fried potatoes. 

Corn gems. Coffee. 

LUNCH. 

Salad. Graham bread. 

Baked apples. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Puree of peas. 

Shepherd's pie. Stuffed tomatoes. 

Corn. 

Cold slaw. 

Wafers. Edam cheese. 

Brown betty. 

Coffee. 



LITTLE DIJfNERS. 



First. 



Oysters on the half shell. 

Soup. 

Roast turkey. Mashed potatoes. 

Creamed celery. Stewed tomatoes. 

Salad. 

Mince pie. Plum pudding. 

Apple Snow. 

Nuts and Raisins. Salted almonds. 

Candied fruits. 

Coffee. 



Second. 

Raw oysters. 
Tomato soup. 
Sirloin steak. 

French fried potatoes. 

String beans. 
Chicory salad. 

Lemon meringue pie. 
Coffee. Fruit. 



Third. 

Consomme. 

Shad roes, tomato sauce. 

Boned shoulder of lamb, stuffed. 

Browned mashed potatoes. String beans. 

Creamed turnips. 

Salad, asparagus. French dressing. 

Cheese. Water wafers. 

Ideal tapioca pudding. 

Coffee. 



Fourth. 



Split pea soup. 

Boiled cod, sauce Hollandaise. 

Beef tongue au gratin. Brown sauce. 

Browned potatoes. Asparagus. 

Bermuda onions. 

Salad, lettuce and cucumbers. 

Vanilla ice cream, lady cake. 

Coffee. 

Londonderry lithia sparkling water. 

Fifth. 

Cream of barley soup. 

Fillets of flounders. 

Sirloin steak with mushrooms. 

Bermuda potatoes. Spinach moulded. 

Spaghetti, with tomato. 

Salad, cauliflower, Mayonnaise. 

Orange fritters. 

Coffee. 

SLxth. 

Chicken soup, with noodles. 

Fried halibut, with cold slaw. 

Roast ribs of beef, brown gravy. 

Mashed potatoes. Stewed lentils. 

Celery fritters. 

Birds on toast. 

Salad, lettuce, FYench dressing. 

Cream cheese. Wafers. 

Apricot float, with cake. 

Coffee. 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Beef 172 

A la Mode 178 

Beef, Stewed, or other Meats . . . 17G 

Boston Roast 173 

Beefsieak with Mushroom Sauce . . 175 

Beefsteak, Braised 174 

Beefsteak Pudding 176 

Beefsteak I'ie (French Style) . . . 175 

Beef or Mutton, Curried 178 

Beefsteak with Oyster Sauce . . . 174 

Chipped 182 

Corned Beef, Rolled 179 

Corned Beef, Pressed 179 

Dried, (Jravied 182 

Dried, with Kti^s 182 

Driad, Friz-.le I in Cream 182 

Fdletof 173 

Flank, Stuffed 176 

Flank, Rolled 177 

Heart, Stuffed 181 

Liver and Bacon, Fried 179 

Livfer, Stewed 179 

Mext Telly 181 

M -at and Potato Pie 180 

Ne v E Inland Boiled Dinner ... 180 

Pickled,' Pressed 178 

Pressed 179 

K >i;t, with Yorkshire Pudding . . 172 

Kb <>ast. Stuffed 173 

Rm.. 172 

Si.'--, Ci|)e Cod 177 

St:a<, Ha'nburg 175 

Steak, Spanish 175 

Shm'c, Boiled 178 

Steak, Stewed with Oysters .... 174 

Steak, Broiled 173 

Ton rue. Pickled 180 

Tong le, Deviled 181 

Tongue, Braised 181 

Tongue, Spiced 131 

Virginia, Spiced 177 

Yorkshire Pudding 173 

Bills of Fare 583 

Biscuit 304 

Baking Powder, Substitution of . . 304 

Buttermilk 305 

588 



Biscuit (Continued). 

Cream of Tartar and .Soda, without 

Milk 305 

Raised Graham 30-5 

Scotch Scones 317 

Suggestions for Making 304 

Blanc Mange 417 

Almond 418 

Banana 418 

Chocolate 418 

Cornstarch 417 

Rhubarb 418 

Buns 307 

Caraway 307 

Hot Cross 307 

Puffs, Oatmeal 307 

Bread 294 

Baked Brown 303 

Baking Powder 298, 301 

Baking Powder, Kome Made . . . 298 

Baking, Time for 297 

Boston Brown 302 

Entire Wheat 300 

Graham 303 

Indian 303 

Left Over 29J 

New Orleans Corn 303 

Oat Meal 30 1 

Potato Sponge 30J 

Potato Yeast 29.S 

Quick Buttermilk 301 

Quick Graham 303 

Rye 303 

Salt Raising 301 

Serving Butter 293 

Table of Proportions 297 

Yeast, Hop 298 

Yeast Cakes 293 

Water 299 

Wheat, Quick 300 

Wheat and Indian 302 

Cakes 364 

Almond 379 

Almonds, to Blanch 368 

Ambrosia 388 

Angel Food 378 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



689 



Cakes (Continued). 

Apple Jelly 386 

Apple Snow 386 

Banana Layer 382 

Berry 385 

Black Fruit 374 

Butter, To Sweeten 367 

Cakes, Holiday 392 

Caramel 387 

Cheap Fruit '. 375 

Chocolate Caramel 381 

Chocolate Cream 380 

Chocolate Layer 381 

Chocolate Loaf 377 

Chocolate Marble 377 

Cochineal Coloring 371 

Cocoanut and Almond Layer . . . 383 

Cocoanut Layer • . . 383 

Coffee 379 

Corn Starch 378 

Cranberry 385 

Cream Fruit (Plain) 375 

Cream Puffs 391 

Cream Sponge 377 

Date. 376 

Delicate 378 

Delmonico Wedding 374 

Devil's Food 380 

Dried Apple 375 

Election 376 

Fancy 389 

Fig, Choice 376 

Fig, Layer . 334 

Frosting 371 

Frosting, Boiled 372 

Frosting, Confectioners" 372 

Frosting, Cocoanut 372 

Frosting, Pink 372 

Frosting, Yellow 372 i 

Frosting, Wedding Cake 373 I 

Fruits for Cakes 367 

Fruit Layer 387 

German Orange 394 

Home-made Flavoring Extracts . . 368 

Horns of Plenty 392 

Hot Water Sponge 377 

Icing, Almond 373 

Ice Cream . 381 

Icing, Eggless. Coffee 373 

Icing, Eggless, Map'e Sugar .... 373 

Icing, Lemon 373 

Icing, Lemon, Eggless 373 

Icing. Soft 872 

Jam, Fruit 375 

Jellv 386 



Cakes (Continued). 

Jelly for 383 

Jumbles, Almond 393 

Jumbles, Cocoanut 393 

Jumbles, Fruit 393 

Jumbles, Grandmother's 393 

Jurnbles, Lemon 392 

l-idy 378 

Lady Fingers 39I 

Layer 380 

Layer Spice 387 

Lemon 379 

Lemon Jelly 3fe3 

Lemon Layer 382 

Lemon Snaps 3','! 

Leb-Kuchen (German) 393 

Lily 378 

Loaf 380 

Maple Caramel 387 

Maple Sugar 387 

Marshmallow 380 

Minnehaha 388 

Neapolitan 386 

Nut 376 

Orange 379 

Orange Jelly 382 

Orange Layer 382 

1-2-3-i 380 

Peach 385 

Peanut 393 

Plum 375 

Pond Lily 388 

Pound 379 

Raisin Layer 387 

Rebel • . . 388 

Ribbon Fig 384 

Rolled Coffee 393 

Sand Tarts 392 

Snaps — Coffee 391 

Spiced Raisin 379 

Sponge Cream 3o^3 

Sponge Fig 384 

Spon_a;e, Small Sheet 377 

Strawberry Layer 385 

Substitute for Brandy 367 

Table of Proportions 369 

Tables of Weights and Measures . . 370 

Testing the Cake 367 

Time Table for Baking 369 

To Keep Fruit Fresh 367 

Tutti Frutti Layer 3&4 

Wafers, Almond 389 

Wafers, Chocolate ........ 390 

Wafers, Cocoanut 390 

Wafers, Cream Fruit 391 



590 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Cakes (Continued). 

Wafers, Lemon 390 

Wafers, Seed 389 

Wafers, Tea Lemon 391 

Wafers, V'anilla 389 

Wafers, Walnut 389 

Walnut 376 

Walnut Layer 386 

Washington 385 

Zuinnet Kuchen 394 

Candies 541 

Almonds, Salted 549 

Butter, Scotch 545 

Barley, Sugar 543 

Candied Violets 550 

Caramels, Cream 542 

Caramels, Nut 542 

Caramels, Tutti-Frutti 542 

Chocolate Caramels 541, 542 

Cocoanut Taffy 548 

Colorings for 541 

Cough 546 

Cream Almonds 543 

Cream Figs 547 

Cream Tutti-Frutti 546 

Date 546 

Eggs for Easter 547 

Fig Paste 547 

Fig Rock 547 

French Candies 551 

Fruit or Nut 546 

Hickory-nut 548, 549 

Hoarhound 546 

Ice Cream 543 

Jujube Paste 542 

Lemon Drops 544 

Maple Balis 544 

Maple Wax 544 

Marshmallow 550 

Marshmallows, Toasted 550 

Meringue Kisses 545 

Molasses 543 

Orange and Cocoanut 548 

Old Style Cream 550 

Peanut 549 

Peanuts, Salted 549 

Peppermints, Cream 544 

Peppermint Drops 543 

Popcorn 545 

Popcorn Balls 545 

Popcorn, Sugared 545 

Rose 547 

Taffy, Vinegar 544 

Wintergreen Drops 544 



Canned Fruits 479 

Apples and Raisins, To Can . . 486 

Apples, Canned 486 

Asparagus, To Can 488 

Beans, To Can 487 

Beef Tongue, To Can 488 

Blackberries, Canned 485 

Butter, Lemon 491 

Butter, Orange 491 

Canning 482 

Canning, Cold Water 484 

Canning, Table for 481 

Canned Tomatoes 487 

Cans, To Seal 481 

Cherries, Canned 486 

Cherries in Molasses 486 

Corn, To Can 488 

Cranberries, To Can 485 

Currants, Canned, Green 485 

Elderberries, Canned 484 

Honey, Artificial 490 

Honey, Lemon 490 

Honey, Nevada Mountain 490 

Honey, Quince 491 

Honey, Tomato 491 

Hot Cakes, Syrups for 489 

Lemon Syrup 490 

Milk, To Can 488 

Mulberries, To Can 484 

Peaches, Canned 485 

Pears, Canned 485 

Peas, To Can 487 

Pineapple, Canned 484 

Plums, Canned 485 

Pumpkin, To Can 487 

Quinces, Canned 485 

Rhubarb, To Can 487 

Strawberries, Canned 483 

Syrups 489 

Syrup, Apricot 489 

Syrup, Cherry 489 

Syiup, Lemon 490 

Syrup, Maple 489 

Syrup, Quince 489 

Syrup, Orange 490 

Syrup, Strawberry 489 

Tomatoes, To Can 487, 488 

Carving 18 

Beef, Ribs of 18 

Beef, Sirloin of 18 

Calf's Head 21 

Duck 29 

Fowl, Boiled 28 

Fowl, Roasted 27 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



591 



Carving (Continued). 

Goose, Roasted 29 

Grouse 28 

Hare, Roasted 27 

Lamb, Fore-quarter of 22 

Mutton, Leg of 24 

Mutton, Loin of 24 

Mutton, Haunch of 21 

Mutton, Saddle of 23 

Ox Tongue 19 

Partridges 28 

Pigeons, Trussed 30 

Pig, Sucking 25 

Shoulder, To Carve 24 

Shoulder, Boned and Rolled ... 23 

Turkey 28 

Veal, Breast of 19 

Veal, Fillet of 20 

Veal, Knuckle of 20 

Venison, Haunch of 26 

Catsup and Spiced Fruits , . . . 322 

Blackberries, Spiced 325 

Catsup Celery 324 

Catsup, Cucumber 322 

Catsup, Mushroom 323 

Catsup, Old Virginia 323 

Catsup, Southern 323 

Catsup, Tomato 322 

Catsup, Walnut 324 

Cherries, Spiced 325 

Cranberries, Spiced 325 

Gooseberries, Spiced 325 

Oyster Sauce 324 

Sauce, Chili 324 

Sauce, Chutney 324 

Sauce, Oyster 324 

Chafing Dish Cookery 333 

Chocolate Cream 337 

Clams .1 la Maryland 336 

Clams, Cream of 336 

Clams, Hashed Little Neck .... 337 

Crabs, Soft Shell 337 

Creme Oysters 336 

Lobster, Creamed 336 

Lobster au Naturel 336 

Oysters, Creamed 336 

Oysters, Escalloped 335 

Oysters, Pan 335 

Oysters with Celery, Creamed . . . 335 

Pan Toast in Chafing Dish .... 335 

Pudding, Spanish Cream 337 

Rarebit, Welsh 334 

Toast, Oyster 336 



Cheese Dishes 344 

Biscuit and Cheese, Deviled .... 346 

Brown Bread Savories 347 

Canapes 346 

Celery 347 

Cheese and Bacon 348 

Cottage 348 

Crackers 346 

Crackers, Lunch 346 

Cream 348 

Crusts 345 

Custard 345 

Dessert 348 

Deviled Cheese Crackers 346 

Flakes 346 

Fingers 345 

Golden Buck 347 

How to Keep from Moulding . . . 344 

Puffs 347 

Rings 347 

Rusk for 344 

Smearkase 348 

Squares 346 

Straws 344 

Timbale 348 

Toast 345 

Toast, Deviled 345 

Welsh Rarebit 346 

Yorkshire Buck 347 

Chicken 135 

A la Tartare 142 

Baked 13y 

Brown Fricassee of 137 

Boned 136 

Baked with Rice 136 

Boiled 136 

Broiled 139 

Curry 142 

Curry, Indian 142 

Dumplings for Fricasseed 137 

Dressings 136 

Fricassee 136 

Fricasseed with Oysters 137 

Fried in Batter 139 

Little Dish of Chicken 144 

Legs, to Cook 144 

Minced 144 

Mushroom 143 

Mushroom, Chicken 143 

Maryland, Fried 138 

Patties 143 

Pie, Novelty 143 

Pudding 141 

Pot Pie, Southern Style ...... 140 



592 



ALPHABKriCAL INDEX. 



Chicken (Continued). 

Pie with Oysters 

Pot Pie 

Pie 

Roly Poly 

Roast 

Short Cake 

Sauces or Gravies 

Stock Jelly for Poultry or Meats 

Scalloped 

Smothered 

Stew, Brunswick 

Stew, Creole Style 

Stewed with Potatoes 

Turn-overs 

With Oysters, Boiled .... 



Clams 

Baked Stuffed 

•'Claiu Bake" (Inland) 

Chowder 

Chowder, Coney Island with Thyme 

Chowder, Canned 

Cream of 

Deviled 

Fried 

Fried Soft Shell 

On Toast 

Oysters and Clams, Cream of . . . 

Pancakes 

Roast in the Shell 

Scalloped 

Shells, To Open 

Steamed 

Stew 

Cookies 

Chocolate 

Coriander 

Cream 

Date 

Dominoes 

Drop Ginger 

Eggless 

Frosted 

Fruit 

Graham 

Ideal 

Lemon 

Oatmeal 

Peanut 

Peerless 

Seed 

Soft Molasses 

Spiced Molasses 

Sugar 



HO 

140 

139 

141 I 

135 I 

140 

130 

142! 

143 

141 

138 I 

138, 

138 

141 i 

13G, 

92 I 

96 
95 
92 
93 
93 
93 
96; 

94: 

94! 

97 I 

93 

96 

96 

94 

92 

96 

97 

398 
400 
400 
398 
400 
399 
404 
398 
400 
400 
399 
398 
399 
399 
400 
398 
399 
404 
404 
398 



Cookies (Continued). 

\ iiicgar Molasses 404 

Water 400 

Cooking for Invalids 554 

Apple Water 556 

Bacon for Invalids 569 

Baked Milk 566 

Barley Water 55(), 557 

Beef Broth 503 

Beef juice 560, oJU, 562 

Beef Toast 5G8 

Beeftseak, Chopped, for Invalid . . 5G9 

Boiled Flour Gruel 535 

Brandy Cocoa 559 

Bread Panada 566 

Broiled Squabs, Quail or Chicken . 5G8 

Broiled Sweetsbreads ....... 568 

Broths 560 

Buttermilk Whey 559 

Calves' foot Jelly 566 

Canned Grape-juice 557 

Caudle 564 

Chicken Broth 564 

Chicken Jelly 567, 568 

Clam Broth 562 

Clam Trappe 562 

Codfish, Creamed 569 

Cornmeal Coffee 556 

Cracked Ice, To Keep 5')5 

Cream Soup 563 

Creamed Sweetbreads 568 

Crust Coffee 556 

Custard, Dyspeptic 571 

Custard, Rice 571 

" Don'ts" for the Sick Roo:.i . . . 554 

Drinks, Nourishing 555 

Egg Coffee 5G0 

Egg in Milk 570 

Egg Milk 559 

Egg-Nog 559, 560 

Egg on Toast 569, 570 

Egg Wine 559 

Gluton Wafers 570 

Gruel, Arrowroot 565 

Gruels 561 

Gruel, Cracker 565 

Gruel, Milk 565 

Gruel, Oatmeal 565 

Gruel, Onion 570 

Indian-Meal Gruel 564 

Jelly, Orange 571 

Jelly, Sago 571 

jelly, Tapioca 57! 

Lemonade, Flaxseed 560 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



593 



Cooking for Invalids (Continued). 

Lemonade, Milk 560 

Linseed Tea 557 

Meat Jelly 567 

Medicine Closet 573 

Menu for Baby 572 

Milk and Lime Water 558 

Milk Porridge 566 

Milk Punch 558 

Mulled Buttermilk 559 

Mulled Jelly 560 

Mulled Wine 558 

Mutton Broth 563 

Mutton Jelly 567 

Oatmeal Shrub 557 

Oysters, Grilled 569 

Paulet a la Creme 564 

Potatoes, Baked 570 

Raisin Broth 560 

Raw Beef Sandwiches 568 

Raw Beef, Scraped 568 

Rennet Whey 558 

Rice Caudle 564 

Rice Gruel 564 

Rice Water 556 

Soup, Cracker 566 

Tamarind Water 556 

Tea and Milk 557 

Toast Water . 556 

Veal Broth 563 

Wine Whey 558 

Corn Cakes 312 

Corn Pop-overs 312 

Custard Corn 312 

Johnny Cake, Golden 313 

Johnny Cake, Sweetened 313 

Johnny Cake, Suet 313 

Parker House, Corn Cake 313 

Crabs 97 

Canapes of 99 

Deviled 97 

Fricassee of Oyster 99 

Fried Soft Shelled 98 

Hot 98 

On Toast 98 

Oyster Crabs 99 

Oyster Crabs, Deviled in Shells . . 100 

Oyster Crabs on Toast 100 

Oyster Crab Pie 100 

Sauted in Butter 98 

Scalloped 97 

Soft Shell a la Maitred' Hotel . . . 99 

Stewed 98 

38 



Crackers 318 

Corn Starch 3lg 

Graham 313 

Graham Cream 318 

Milk 318 

Soda 318 

Creams and Charlottes ..... 419 

Charlotte Russe , . . 422 

Charlotte Russe, Banana 423 

Charlotte Russe, Burnt Almond . . 423 

Charlotte Russe Cream 422 

Charlotte Russe, Hard Times . . . 422 

Charlotte Russe Lemon 4l'3 

Charlotte Russe, Orange 423 

Charlotte Russe, Snow 423 

Cream, l>lackberry 421 

Cream, Chocolate 421 

Cream, Cocoanut 420 

Cream, Coffee 420 

Cream, Lemon 420 

Cream, Orange 420 

Cream, Strawberry Chocolate . . . 421 

Cream, Whipped 419 

Sponge, Lemon 420 

Vanilla Snow Eggs 421 

Croquettes 261 

Baked • ... 263 

Canned Salmon 265 

Chestnut, Cream 266 

Chicken 262 

Chicken and Calves' Brains .... 262 

Chicken and Oyster 262 

Clam 266 

Cod-fish 205 

Cod's Roe 265 

Corned Beef . 264 

Egg 268 

Fish 265 

Green Corn 267 

Ham 263 

Liver 264 

Lobster 266 

Macaroni 267 

Meat 203 

Meat, Sauce for 263 

Oyster 265 

Parsnip 267 

Potato 268 

Rice 267 

Rice and Meat 266 

Rice, with Parmesan Sauce .... 267 

Shad Roe 264 

Sweet-bread 264 

Sweet Potato 26S 

Veal 264 



594 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Crullers 395 

Crullers 395 

Cnilleis, Cream 395 

Custards 415 

Banana 417 

Baked 416 

Boiled 41G 

Caramel 410 

Coffee, Flavoring 415 

Cream 416 

Flavoring, Caramel 415 

Flavoring, Coffee 415 

French 416 j 

French Tapioca 41G 

Orange 417 

Desserts 424 

Airy Nothing 429 

Apple Float 430 

Apple Trifle 430 

Apple Whip 430 

Banana Moonshine 431 

Banana Tajiioca 431 

Banana Trifle . 431 

Blackberry Cream 435 

Blackberry Mush or Flummery . . 435 

Blanc Mange, Almond 425 

Cakes, Prstache 427 

Cheese Cakes, Potato 428 

Cherry Charlotte 439 

Clabber 428 : 

Coffee Cup Custard 425 

Coffee Jelly with Sauce ...:.. 42G 

Cream, Orange 434 ' 

Currant Snow 435 

Custard, Chocolate 424 

Custar-d, Pumpkin 426 

Dates and Almonds 438 

Date Meringue 438 

Dates or Figs, Steamed 438 

Dessert Dates 438 

Dessert, Vermicelli 427 i 

Fig Custard 439 | 

Fruit Desserts 429 

Fruit Trifle 437 

(Gelatine, Strawberry 433 

Gxape Trifle 427 

I Lemon Fluff 434 

. Lemon Honey 427 i 

Lemon Rice 425 | 

Meringue 426 

Meringii", Apple or Peach .... 430 | 

Meringue. Banana 432 

^leiingue, Currant 435 j 

Meringue, Date 438 I 



Desserts (Continued). 

Meringue, Peach 431 

Moonshine 429 

Nut Cream 425 

Orange Cream • 434 

Orange Float 434 

Orange Jelly in Baskets 433 

Orange Snowballs 434 

Plum Custard 437 

Plum Pudding 437 

Prune Jelly 438 

Prunes, Jellied 437 

Pudding, Amber 428 

Pudding, Cherry 439 

Pudding, Cold Peach 431 

Pudding, Cu3*ard 427 

Puddings, Fruit Sauce for 435 

Pudding Glace, Plum 427 

Pudding, " My Own" 428 

Pudding, Orange Ambrosia .... 433 

Pudding, Pineapple Cream .... 432 

Pudding, .Strawberry 432 

Pudding, Strawberry Bread .... 432 

Pudding, Strawberry Puff 432 

Pudding, Tipsy 424 

Quince, Snow 437 

Raspberry Float 436 

Raspberry Meringue 436 

Raspberry Trifle 436 

Rice with Fig Sauce 425 

Rice Meringue 424 

Rhubarb Tapioca 436 

Rhubarb with Lemon Cream . . . 436 

Sponge, Apple 430 

Strawberries, Custard 433 

Strawberries, Jellied 433 

Syllabub 429 

Tapioca Fruit 433 

Tapioca, Orange 434 

Tutti Frutti Apple 429 

Doughnuts 395 

Coflee 397 

Cream 396 

Graham 397 

Indian Meal 397 

Love Knots .... 397 

Molasses 397 

Raised 396, 397 

Without Shortening 396 

Ducks 146 

Boned • • • 147 

Boiled 147 

Broiled 147 

Canvas-back 159 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



595 



Ducks (Continued). 

Deviled 147 

Fricasseed 147 

Onion Dressing 147 

Onion Sauce 146 

Roast 146 

Sauce for Ducks or Game .... 146 

Sour (German) 147 

With Turnips 147 

Wild Duck, Roast (Western Style) . 160 

Dumplings . 338 

Baked Apple 338 

Berry 340 

Boiled Apple • • 339 

Dough 340 

Lemon 340 

Peach 339 

Plain 338 

Plum 339 

Preserve 340 

Puff Balls 340 

Rice 340 

Rice Apple 340 

Strawberry 339 

Suet 338 

Eggs 218 

A la Mode 225 

Brine for 218 

Boiled in the Shell 219 

Baked 220 

Boiled with Cream Sauce 221 

Baskets 222 

Breaded 226 

Beauregard 225 

Curried 223 

Columbus 222 

Curry, Soft Egg -224 

Cupped 224 

Custards, Breakfast 224 

Deviled 224 

Egg Vermicelli •. . . . 224 

Fricasseed 223 

Fried 220 

Griddled 220 

Honeycomb 225 

Ham and Eggs Baked 225 

In Scallop Shells 221 

Minced 225 

Nests 223 

Omelet, Foam 226 

On Rice 225 

Omelet, Parsley 226 

Omelet, Plain 226 

Omelet, Oyster 227 



Eggs (Continued). 

Omelet with Jelly 230 

Omelet, Bread 227 

Omelet, Cheese 227 

Omelet, with Corn 228 

Omelet, Asparagus 228 

Omelet, Cabbage 228 

Omelet, Onion 228 

Omelet with Peas 228 

Omelet, Spanish 229 

Omelet, Apple 229 

Omelet, Peach 230 

Omelet, Strawberry 230 

Omelet, Sweet 230 

Omelet, Rice 229 

Omelet, Codfish 227 

Omelet, Cauliflower 228 

Omelet, Tomato 228 

Omelet, Potato 228 

Packing 218 

Poached 219 

Pickled 223 

Poached, Spanish Style 223 

Scalloped 221 

Scrambled 221 

Scrambled, with Bacon 221 

Steamed 220 

Smothered 220 

Stuffed 222 

Salad 222 

Spanish Scrambled 223 

Sour (German Style) 224 

With Gravy, Poached 219 

Entrees 349 

Cauliflower 351 

Cheese 350 

Chicken 350 

Chicken and Ham 350 

Ground Rice 352 

Meat 350 

Plain 351 

Potato 351 

Potato Souffle 352 

Salmon 349 

Soufile-Tin 352 

Fish 103 

Baked 106 

Broiled 104 

Baked and Stuffed 106 

Bass Breaded 122 

Bass, Pike and Pickerel 122 

Blue Fish Baked 122 

Blue Fish Broiled 122 



596 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Fish (Continued). 

Brook Trout 125 

Chowder, Fish 125 

Chowder, Sail Fish 119 

Cod a la I'lamande 118 

Cod Fish 117 

Cod Fish, Baked, Stuffed 117 

Cod Fish and Eggs 119 

Cod Fish Balls and Bacon .... 120 

Cod Fish, Boiled 117 

Cod Fish, Creamed 119 

Coil Creamed in a Potato Case . . . 118 

Cod's Roe 118 

Cods Roe Pudding 118 

Cod Fish Stew 118 

Dainty Baked Fish 107 

Eels 126 

Eels Baked 126 

Eels Broiled 126 

Eel Chowder 126 

Eels, Fried 126 

Eel Stew 126 

Fish Balls, Old-Fashioned .... 120 

Fish, Breaded 120 

Fish Croquettes, with Cream Sauce . 121 

Fish Curry 121 

Fillets of 107 

Fish, Flaked ... 122 

Fish, Force-Meat Balls 123 

Fish Hash 121 

Fish, Potted 125 

Fish Puffs 120 

Fish Souffle 123 

Fish Stew 121 

Gravy, Plain 103 

Haddock, Fillet of 123 

Haddock, Smoked 124 

Halibut 110 

Halibut, Baked 110 

Halibut, Boiled 110 

Halibut, Fillet of Ill 

Halibut Steak, Baked HO 

Halibut Steak, Cold Ill 

Halibut Steak, Fried HI 

Halibut Steak, Stuffed Ill 

How to Scale 103 

Mackerel 109 

Mackerel, Baked and Stuffed ... 109 

Mackerel, Boiled Fresh 109 

Mackerel, Broiled Spanish .... 109 

Mackerel, Salt, Baked 110 

Mackerel, Salt, Broiled 109 

Mackerel, Spiced 110 

Pike, Creamed 122 

Red Snapper, Baked 108 



Fish (Continued). 

Red Snapper, liaked a la Creole . . 109 

Red Snapper, Boiled 108 

Salmon 114 

Salmon, Baked 115 

Salmon, Boiled II4 

Salmon, Broiled 116 

Salmon, Canned, Plain 117 

Salmon, Deviled 117 

.Salmon, Fresh Fried 116 

Salmon on Toast J K! 

Salmon, Pickled 11(1 

Salmon Pie 11() 

Salmon Saline 116 

Salmon, St. Croix 116 

Salmon Trout, Baked ...... 115 

Salt Codfish • . 118 

Salt Cod, Broiled 119 

Sardines, Broiled 125 

Sardines, Deviled, on Toast .... 125 

Shad 112 

Shad, Baked and Stuffed 114 

Shad, Boned 112 

Shad, Broiled 114 

Shad, Planked 113 

Shad Roe 112 

Sheepshead 122 

Shrimps, Creamed 124 

Shrimps, Deviled 124 

Shrimps on Toast 124 

Smelts, Fried 124 

Trout, Fried 123 

Turbot a la Creme 124 

White Fish, Baked 120 

White Fish, Planked 120 

White Fish, Salt 121 

Fritters 26H 

Apple 274 

Apricot 275 

Banana 274 

Beef 270 

Bread 270, 275 

Calves' Brains 269 

Cauliflower 272 

Celery 271 

Clam' 269 

Coffee 275 

Crab 269 

Cream 275 

Cream Puff 275 

Cucumber 271 

Currant 272,273 

Custard 27 ' 

Dessert 2'W 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



697 



Fritters (Continued). 

l-ibh Roe 269 

Fritter Batter 268 

Fruit 272 

Graham 270 

Green Corn 27 1 

Green Pea 271 

Ham 270 

Hominy 272 

Jam 270 

Orange 272 

Oyster 269 

Peach 273 

Pear 274 

Pineapple 273 

Pork 270 

Potato 270 

Spinach 272 

Strawberry 274 

Summer Squash 271 

Tomato • • 270 

Tongue 270 

Frog's Legs 155 

Fried 155 

Fruit Salads 440 

Apple 441 

Banana 440 

French Banana 441 

Fruit Gelatine 440 

Orange 441 

Peach 441 

Strawberry 441 

Sweet Orange 441 

Game 149 

Bread Sauce for 150 

Dressing for Broiled 151 

How to Cook 150 

Geese 144 

Apple Dressing or Stuffing .... 145 

Apple Sauce for Meats 145 

Deviled , . . . 145 

Force Meat Balls 146 

Potato Stuffing 145 

Roast 144 

Stuffed with Sauerkraut ..'.... 145 

Gems 308 

Apple ....._. 308 

Graham (with Baking Powder) . . 308 

Oatmeal 809 

Rye 3< 9 

Wheat 309 



Gingerbreads 401 

Cake, Ginger Layer 402 

Cakes, Ginger 403 

Cream 401 

Date 402 

Fruit 402 

Gems, Ginger 403 

Gingerbread Card 402 

Ginger Nuts 403 

Maple Molasses 401 

Old-fashioned 402 

Poverty 402 

Snaps 404 

Snaps, Our 404 

Soft 402 

Sponge 401 

Griddle Cakes 314 

A la Celestine 317 

Buckwheat 314 

Buckwheat, Quick 314 

Crushed Wheat 316 

Dessert 316 

Flannel 315 

Flapjacks 315 

Graham, Quick 315 

Graham, Raised 315 

Grandma's 316 

Oyster 316 

Oyster, a Supper Dish 316 

Pancakes, with Sauce 317 

Rye 315 

Swedish 316 

Wheat, Sweet Milk 316 

Hare 154 

Hare, Stewed 154 

Jugged 154 

Larded 154 

Roast 154 

Hashes, Cold Meats, etc 204 

Apple Hash 210 

Beef Balls 205 

Beef Cakes 207 

Beef Pie 205 

Beef a la Hamburg 206 

Beef, Cannelon of 205 

Beef, Warmed Over with Potato 

Border 205 

Beef Patties 205 

Beef, Frizzled Corned 207 

Beef, Hashed 209 

Beef, Fricasseed 2O8 

Rubblp anH Squeak 208 

Beef, Deviled 211 

Beefsteak Pie 209 



■)98 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Hashes, Cold Meats, etc. (Continued). 

licet" Olives 2U7 

Beef, Sliced, or other Meat .... 20G 

Corned Beef Hash 209 

Cottage Pie 208 

Chicken, Saline of 217 

Chicken Dumplings 217 

Chicken, Deviled 215 

Fowl, Fricassee of Cold Roast . . . 216 

Fish Flakes 216 

Hash, with Bread 210 

Hash, Creamed 210 

Hash, Baked 209 

Ham, Jellied 212 

Ham and Tomatoes 213 

Ham Patties 213 

Ham, Deviled 213 

Hash with Raw Potatoes 209 

Ham on Potatoes 212 

Ham, Scalloped 213 

Ham and Macaroni 212 

Ham, Curried 212 

Ham, Mince with Eggs 217 

Loaves, Westphalia 212 

Lamb Pie 214 

Meat, Cold and Tomatoes 207 

Mince, Missouri 205 

Meat, Hashed on Toast 210 

Mutton, Hashed 214 

Meat, Deviled Cold 217 

Mutton, Haricot of 214 

Mutton, Frizzled . 214 

Mutton or Lamb, Minced 213 

Mutton, Cold Sliced 214 

Noodles and Meat Stew 214 

Petits I'ains 210 

Salad, Luncheon (Boiled Meat) . . 217 

Scallop, Western 207 

Stew, Irish 208 

Tongue, Savory 214 

Turbot a la Creme 216 

Turkey, Scalloped ....... 215 

Veal Pates 210 

Veal Cutlets, Cold 212 

Veal a la Bombay 211 

Veal, Deviled 211 

Veal a la Princess . 211 

Veal, Ragout of . 212 

Veal and Ham Pie 208 

Veal, Minced ........ 211 

Veal Terrapin 215 

Wonders 210 

Ices and Ice Cream 507 

.Mniond 511 

Banana, Irozen 51 G 



Ices and Ice Cream (Continued). 

Banana, Glace 516 

Blackberry Ice 521 

Blueberry 514 

Caramel 513 

Cherry 512 

Cherries, Frozen 510 

Cherry Ice 520 

Chestnut 512 

Chocolate 512 

Chocolate Moss 512 

Cocoanut 513 

Cochineal Coloring 508 

Coffee 512 

Colors for Ices 507, 508 

Currant 514 

Currant and Raspberry • 513 

Currant Ice 520 

Fried 511 

Frozen Custard 511 

Frozen Fruits . 517 

Grape Water Ice 520 

Ice Cream Pudding, Strawberry . . 518 

Lemon 511 

Lemon Ice 520 

Moulding 509 

Moulds for Creams 509 

Orange 515 

Oranges, Frozen 516 

Orange Granito 517 

Orange Ice 520 

Packing 508 

Peach 515 

Peaches and Cream 517 

Peaches, Frozen 517 

Peach Granito 517 

Pineapple 513 

Pineapple Ice 520 

Pistachio Ice Cream 512 

Pudding, Frozen 519 

Pudding, Nesselrode 519 

Punch Souffle 523 

Pudding, Tuscan 518 

Raspberry 514 

Raspberries, Frozen 519 

Rice Pudding, Iced 519 

Sherbets 521 

Sherbet, Apricot 521 

Sherbet, Grape • . 522 

Sherbet, Lemon 521 

Sherbet, Milk 522 

Sherbet, Orange . • • 521 

Sherbet, Pineapple 522 

Sherbet, Strawberry 521 

Snow Cream 511 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



599 



Ices and Ice Cream (Continued), 

borbcts 522 

Sorbet, Banana 523 

Sorbet de Raisin 523 

Sorbet, Wild Cherry and Almond , . 523 

Strawberry 515 

Strawberries, Frozen 515 

Strawberry Ice 520 

Tapioca Ice . 521 

Tutti-fiutli 515 

Tutti frutti Flavoring 510 

Vanilla 511 

Watermelon, Frozen 516 

With Eggs 511 

Without Eggs 511 

Without Ice 509 

Jellies 465 

Apple 467 

Blackberry 471 

Calf's Foot 478 

Cider 478 

Cherry 474, 476 

Coffee 476 

Combination 474 

Crabapple 470 

Cranberry 471 

Currant 470 

Fancy 475 

General Rule for 466 

Gooseberry 474 

Green Grape 469 

Huckleberry 474 

Lemon . . 475 

Orange 472, 475 

Peach 473, 476 

Pear 473 

Pineapple 476 

Plum 472, 473 

Quince 468 

Quince and Apple 469 

Raspberry 471 

Ripe Grape 469 

Rhubarb 471, 472 

Strawberry 473 

Tomato 473 

Wine 477 

Kidneys 184 

Baked 184 

Slew on Toast ........ 184 

Lobsters 86 

A la Bordelaise 88 

A la Newburg 90 

Baked 88 



Lobsters (Continued). 

Boiled gg 

Broiled gy 

Canapes of 92 

Chops 89 

Chowder 99 

Curried 91 

Cutlets 91 

Deviled 92 

Farcie 91 

Fricassee 39 

Luncheon 9Q 

Mayonnaise 90 

Patties 92 

Potted 90 

Sauce 87 

Scalloped gg 

Stewed 91 

To Cook Canned 89 

Meats 161 

Bacon igg 

Beef 162 

Broiling 171 

Glace, How to Use 170 

Hints on Cooking 169 

Lamb, House 166 

Mutton, The Best 164 

Pork 166 

Roasts 170 

Salt 171 

Tough 171 

Tainted 172 

Veal 163 

Venison 168 

Muffins 309 

English 310 

Plain 309 

Raised 310 

Mutton 190 

Chops in Paper 193 

Imitation Barbecue 195 

Leg of Mutton, with Caper Sauce, 

Boiled 192 

Leg of Mutton, Roasted, Stuffed . . 191 

Lamb, Braised 193 

Love in Disguise 194 

Lamb and Green Peas 194 

Lamb, Roast . 193 

Lamb Pie 194 

Lamb, Grilled 193 

Mutton Roast -190 

Pie 192 

With Browned Potatoes 191 



ooo 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Mutton (Continued). 

Steak with Rice 193 

With Oysters, Shoulder of 191 

With Tomato Pie 192 

With Potato Pie 192 

Oysters 68 

A la Newburg 70 

A la Normandie 85 

A la Poulette 79 

Au Beurre Noir 81 

Bisque 70 

Baked • . . . 74 

Broiled 75 

Cocktails 86 

Creamed 70 

Curled 81 

Croustade of 82 

Chowder 71 

Curried 76 

Deviled 83 

Egg Stew 70 

Fried with Mushrooms 73 

Fricassee of 75 

Frietl in Butter 73 

Fried 71 

Griddle Cakes 80 

Griddled 77 

Grilled 77 

Loaf 82 

Macaroni and Oysters 75 

Mushroom and Oyster Pates .... 78 

Mushroom Ragout 80 

On the Half-Shell 69 

On Crackers 77 

On Toast 76 

Oyster Pats 79 

Oysters and Spaghetti 75 

Oyster Vol and Vent 76 

Oysters and Rice 76 

Pates 78 

Pie 80 

Potpie 85 

Pigs in Blankets, Little 84 

Patties 77 

Pie, Boston 81 

Pies, Little 81 

Pickled 83 

Panned 74 

Pan Roast 74 

Quick Fried 73 

Rarebit 85 

Raw 68 

Restaurant, Fried 73 

Sausages 86 

Smothered ........... 86 



Oysters (Continued). 

Short-cake 86 

Stewed with Celery 70 

Sauce for Raw 69 

Sante 85 

Stew 70 

Scalloped 71 

Stew, Plain 70 

Stew, Dry 70 

Scalloped with Hard Boiled Eggs . 72 

Steamed 74 

Stuffed 84 

Veal and Oyster Pie 88 

Partridges 155 

Roast 155 

Pickles 492 

Apples 503 

Apple Vinegar 501 

Beet 501, 506 

Blackberries 505 

Blackberries, Spiced 505 

Cabbage ' . . . . 497, 506 

Cabbage, Philadelphia Pepper . . . 497 

Cauliflower 497 

Celery Roots 501 

Citron 503 

Cherries 506 

Cherry 500 

Chow-chow, Beet 500 

Chow-chow, Mustard 499 

Crabapples 504 

Cucumber 493, 494 

Cucumbers, Brine for 495 

Cucumbers, Ripe 504 

Cucumbers, Spiced 495 

Green Tomato 496 

Grapes, Spiced 505 

Mangoes 497 

Mixed Sw^eet 506 

Mushroom 500 

Muskmelon 504 

Mustard for Pickles 495 

Mustard Pickle 499 

Onion 498 

Peaches and Apricots 501 

Peach Mangoes 498, 503 

Peaches, Spiced 503 

Peaches, Sweet Pickled 502 

Pears 503 

Plums 505 

Piccalilli 499 

Pickles, To Keep Firm 493 

Pickles, To Keep Green 493 

Quinces 505 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



001 



Pickles (Continned). 

Ripe Tomato 496 

Spiced Vinegar 496 

String Beans 500 

Sweet Corn 500 

Sweet Pickles 502 

Vinegar Celery 502 

Vinegar Honey 502 

Vinegar Potato 502 

Vinegar, Onion 502 

Watermelon 504 

Pies and Pastry 353 

Apple 357 

Apple Meringue 358 

Apricot, Dried 361 

Cheese Cakes 363 

Cherry 361 

Chocolate 359 

Cocoanut Cheese Cakes 363 

Cranberry Meringue 359 

Cranberry Molasses 360 

Custard, Plain 358 

Custard Pumpkin 358 

Eggless Pumpkin 358 

Frosting 356 

Gooseberry Tart 360 

Green Tomato 361 

Harlequin Cream 358 

How to Make 355 

Lemon and Molasses 357 

Lemon Meringue 356 

Lemon without Eggs 357 

Maids of Honor 363 

Meringue for Puddings or Pies . . . 360 

Meringue Squash 359 

Meringue Strawberry 361 

Mincemeat, Extra 355 

Mince, Mock 356 

Orange 357 

Pastry, Glazing 356 

Peach 360 

Peach Meringue 360 

Peach Custard 361 

Pie Crust, Plain 355 

Plain Pumpkin 359 

Pork Apple 358 

Ripe Tomato 361 

Sliced Lemou 357 

Squash 359 

Tarts and Cheese Cakes 361 

Tarts, Apple 362 

Tarts, Berry 362 

Tarts, Chocolate 362 

Tarts, Cocoanut 362 [ 

Tarts, Grandmother's Apple . . . 362 



Pies and Pastry (Continued). 

I'anlets, Cranberry 362 

Tartlets, Green Gage 363 

Tart Paste 362 

Tarts, Raisin 363 

Tart Shells 361 

Tarts, Strawberry 362 

Tarts, Whipped Cream 362 

Winter Apple 357 

Pigeons 156 

Bird's Nest 157 

Pie 156 

Roasted 156 

Stewed 156 

Poisons and Antidotes 574 

Pork 195 

Bacon and Beans 200 

Brine, to Renew 203 

Bologna Sausage 201 

Baked Salt I99 

Boiled Leg of 196 

Bacon and Sweet Potatoes ... . 199 

Bacon, Creamed 199 

Corned Beef, Ham. Shoulder of 

Mutton, Brine or Pickle for . . . 202 

Cold Roast 196 

Ham, Pickling 202 

Ham, Boiled 197 

Ham, Sugared 197 

Ham Cutlets on Toast 198 

Ham, Deviled 197 

Head Cheese 201 

Ham, Potted 200 

Liver and Bacon Balls 200 

Pork and Apple Pie 199 

Pig, Roast 195 

Pot-pie Spare -rib 198 

Pigs' Feet, Soused 200 

Pie 198 

Roast Loin with Apple Stuffing . . 196 

Roast Leg of 1 95 

Sausage, To Keep 201 

Salt Pork Stew 199 

Spare-rib and Sauerkraut 198 

Spare-ribs, Corned 199 

Shoulder of, French Fashion, . . . 195 

Salt Pork in Batter 199 

Spare-rib Pot-pie 198 

Sausage 201 

Poultry 127 

How to Dress 128 

Glaze for 129 



602 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Prairie Chicken 159 

Broiled 159 

Roasted 159 

Preserves and Jams 442 

Apple Butter 448 

Apple and Cranberry 449 

Apple Butter, The Best 448 

Apple Preserves 448 

Apricot 461 

Barberry 439 

Blackberries, Brandied 458 

Blackberry 457 

California Grape 450 

Citron 449 

Citron, Home-made 464 

Cherry , 456 

Cherries, Brandied 456 

Cooking Preserves in Syrup .... 443 

Crabapple 449 

Cranberry 459 

Cucumber 460 

Currant 459 

Currant and Raisin 460 

Egg Plum 455 

Elderberry 459 

Fig 461 

Ginger Apples 448 

Gooseberry 458 

Gooseberries, Dried 484 

Grape 449 

Grape Butter 450 

Grated Pineapple 453 

Green Tomato 451 

Huckleberries, Preserved 459 

Marmalade, Apple 448 

Marmalade, Cherry 456 

Marmalade, Grape 449 

Marmalade, Lemon 437 

Marmalade, Orange 457 

Marmalade, Pear 446 

Marmalade, Pineapple 453 

Marmalade, Plum 455 

Marmalade, Quince 447 

Marmalade, Rhubarb 454 

Marmalade, Tomato 451 

Muskmelon 452 

Muskmelon Butter 453 

Orange 456 

Orange Chips 464 

Peach Butter 444 

Peaches 443 

Peaches, Brandied 444 

Peaches, Dried 463 

Peaches, Figged 463 



Preserves and Jams (Continued). 

Peach Leather 463 

Peach Marmalade 441 

Pears 445 

Pears, Brandied 445 

Pears, Ginger 445 

Pears, Preserved 445 

Persimmon 462 

Pineapple 453 

Pineapple Chips 464 

Plum 454 

Plum Butter 455 

Plums, Brandied 456 

Plums, Dried 463 

Plum Tomato 450 

Prune 461 

Pumpkin . . • 482 

Pumpkin, Dried 464 

Quinces 446 

Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves . 447 

Quince Cheese, or Jam 447 

(Quince Preserves 446 

Raisin . . 460 

Raspberry 458 

Raspberries in Currant Jelly .... 458 

Rhubarb 454 

Rhubarb and Fig 454 

Rhubarb and Ginger 454 

Squash, Preserved 462 

Strawberry 458 

Sugar, To Clarify 443 

Sweet Potato 460 

Tomato 450 

Tomato Butter 451 

Tomato Figs 451, 403 

Tutli Frutt'i 460 

Walnuts r.nd Prunes, Preserved . . 461 

Watermelon 452 

Puddings 405 

Ancestral English Plum 408 

Aunt Mary's 412 

Blueberry Batter 411 

Boiled Lemon 413 

Bread 411 

Bread and Fruit 409 

Brown Betty 413 

Cabinet 414 

Chocolate • • 414 

Chocolate, Cornstarch 413 

Cottage, Baked 411 

Cottage, Steamed 411 

Danish Tapioca 412 

English Plum 409 

Five-Minute 414 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



603 



Puddings (Continued). 

Fruit Bread 411 

Graham Batter 411 

Grandmother's Rice 412 

Green Corn 414 

Indian, Baked 410 

Lemon, Cornstarch 413 

Meringue Bread 411 

Plain Batter 410 

Pudding Sauces 406 

Queen's 412 

Quick Cracker 412 

Roly Poly 410 

Rhubarb 414 

Sauce, Bee-hive 406 

Sauce, Brandy 408 

Sauce, Caramel 408 

Sauce, Creamy 406 

Sauce, Egg 408 

Sauce, Foaming 408 

Sauce, Gold (Hard) 406 

Sauce, Hard 406 

Sauce, Lemon 408 

Sauce, Plain Cornstarch 408 

Sauce, Plain Fruit Pudding .... 401 

Sweet Potato 414 

Sauce, Silver (Hard) 406 

Sauce, Wine 408 

Strawberry 410 

Thanksgiving 409 

Whortleberry 410 

Quail 157 

On Toast 157 

Pie 157 

Roast, with Bread Sauce 157 

Roast 157 

Rabbits 152 

Broiled 152 

Fried 153 

Pie 153 

Panned 153 

Roasted 152 

Stew 153 

With Onions 153 

Remedial Foods 582 

Rolls 303 

Bread, Twist 307 

Egg 30"^ 

French, Raised 307 

Parker House 306 

Parker House, with Baking Powder 305 

Vienna 3' 6 



Rusks 307 

Dried 308 

Rusk, Yeast 307 

Salads 277 

Anchovy 283 

Apple 291 

Baked Bean 289 

Bean 289 

Beet 288 

Cabbage a la Creme 284 

Cabbage, Hot, with Cooked Dressing 285 

Canned Tomato 287 

Carrot 289 

Cauliflower 289 

Celery 284 

Chestnut 283 

Chicken 279 

Chicken, en Mayonnaise 280 

Chicken, with Cooked Dressing . . 279 

Chicken, with Cream Dressing . . . 280 

Cold Pork 281 

Cold Slaw a la Creme 285 

Corned Beef 280 

Crab 283 

Cream Dressing 293 

Cucumber 290 

Dandelion 290 

Dressing, Mrs. Y's Potato .... 286 

Dressings 291, 293 

Duck 280 

Egg. . . 283 

Fish ; 2^3 

Ham 281 

Hot Beet 288 

Hot, Deviled Tomatoes 287 

Lamb 281 

Lemon Lettuce 2S6 

Lettuce 286 

Lettuce in Southern Style : Sii 

Lobster 282 

Mayonnaise Sauce 292 

Mayonnaise Tomato 287 

Mushroom 28lt 

Onion 290 

Orange 291 

Oyster and Celery . . 281 

Potato 285 

Potato with French Dressing . . . 285 

Salmon 282 

Sardine en Mayonnaise 283 

Shrimp , . 283 

Slaw, Celery 284 

Slaw. Hot 285 

Spanish 289 



604 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Salads (Continued). 

Sweetbread 281 

Tomato and Celery 287 

Tomato, Cold Dressing 286 

Tomato, Cooked Dressmg 286 

Tongue 281 

Turkey 280 

Veal 280 

Vegetable 288 

Waldorf Celery 284 

Walnut 284 

Water-Cress 288 

Sally Lunn 312 

Raised 312 

To Serve English Way 312 

Sandwiches 320 

Breakfast 328 

Chicken 328 

Cream of Oyster 329 

Deviled Ham 327 

Dressing 327 

Egg and Fish 328 

Eggwiches 328 

Game 329 

Ham and Egg 328 

Hot Oyster 329 

Hot Roast Beef 329 

Hot Sardine 329 

Oyster 329 

Sandwich Bread 327 

Sardme 329 

Tongue 328 

Sauces and Gravies 319 

Browned Flour 319 

Glace, To Use 319 

Gravy, Brown 321 

Gravies, Browning for 319 

Gravies, Roux for, etc 319 

Oyster Sauce 321 

Sauce, Brown Butter 320 

Sauce, Caper 321 

Sauce, Celery 321 

Sauce, Cream 320 

Sauce, Drawn Butter 320 

Sauce, Egg 321 

Sauce, Lobster 321 

Sauce, Nasturtium 321 

Sauce, White 320 

Scallops 100 

Fried 100 

In Batter 101 

In Shells 100 

Scientific Hygienic Cooking . . 575 



Shortcake 341 

Apple 342 

Chicago 343 

Chicken • • 343 

Cobbler, Peach 342 

Cream, Strawberry 341 

Currant 342 

Huckleberry 343 

Jelly 342 

Lemon 342 

Peach 342 

Pineapple 342 

Quick Strawberry 341 

Rhubarb 342 

Strawberry 341 

Sweet 343 

Soups, How Prepared 31 

Almond, with Rice 65 

Asparagus 61 

Asparagus Consomme 61 

Beef 37, 38 

Bouillon 37 

Broth, Scotch Mutton 43 

Beef, Gumbo 40 

Bean, without Meat 50 

Bonne Femme 42 

Brown Veal 42 

Brown Rabbit . 54 

Bean and Tomato 49 

Baked Bean 49 

Black Bean ... 1 49 

Bean, with Croutons 50 

Bean and Corn 48 

Bean ■ 49 

Bouille 67 

Bean Porridge 48, 49 

Bouquet of Herbs 35 

Catsups 35 

Cream of Barley 67 

Caramel 34 

Curry Balls 36 

Croutons (or Fried Crusts) .... 36 

Cabbage Beef 39 

Chicken Corn 44 

Curry Powder 35 

Chicken 44 

Consomme, with Egg Dumplings . 42 

Chicken Vegetable 44 

Clams, Bisque of, with Profiteroles . 57 

Chicken or Turkey 45 

Chicken Gumbo 46 

Cheese 67 

Cream of Turnip 65 

Cream of Pea 64 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



605 



Soups (Continued). 

Chestnut 66 

Canned Corn • 65 

Cream of Corn 64 

Celery Vinegar 35 

Celery, Puree of 61 

Cream of Spinach 66 

Cauliflower 66 

Cream of Onion 63 

Cabbage (Meatless) 62 

Cat-fish 58 

Clams, Bisque of 56 

Cream, Vegetable 63 

Celery, Oyster 55 

Clam I3ouillon 56 

Dried Green Pea 51 

Dumplings for Soup Sj 

Egg Balls (or Quenelles) 36 

Egg Dumplings 37 

Economical 47 

Economical Celery 62 

French Beef 39 

Family 40 

Fish Cream 58 

Flounders, Bisque of 58 

Frogs' Legs 54 

Giblet 45 

Gumbo 46 

Gumbo, with Crabs 47 

Game, Puree of 53 

Gumbo Filee 47 

Game 51 

Green Turtle a la Creole 59 

Green Pea 64 

Green Pea without Meat 51 

Game Soups 53 

Green Turtle 58 

Herb Spirit 35 

Ham Bone 48 

Hasty 52 

Julienne 47 

Lobster 57 

Lamb Broth 44 

Lobster Bisque 57 

Liebig's Rice 65 

Liebig Tomato 60 

Little Neck Clam 56 

Mock Oyster 53 

Macaroni (Veal) 52 

Macaroni or Vermicelli 50 

Meat Balls, Forced 36 

Marrow Dumpling 40 

Mullagatawny 45 

Mutton with Cheese Dumplings . . 43 

Mutton Broth 44 



Soups (Continued). 

Meat Vegetable 47 

Mutton Turnip 43 

Mutton 43 

Mock Turtle, Plain 41 

Mock Turtle 41 

Noodle 39 

Noodles 37 

Neapolitan 52 

Oyster Cream (Rich) 55 

Oatmeal, Rolled 35 

Oyster (Plain) 55 

Ox-Tail 52 

Okra 65 

Onion or Mock Oyster 63 

Oyster 55 

Oyster Bouillon 56 

Piquant Pea 51 

Puree 34 

Pea 51 

Puree of Turnips a I'Espagnol ... 39 

Potato Dumplings 37 

Pepper Pot 43 

Puree of Cauliflower 48 

Pistachio 67 

Potato Cream 64 

Puree, Green Pea 51 

Pa'esline 66 

Potato 64 

Potage a la Crecy 62 

Potato Onion 63 

Riple 40 

Rice a la Creme 65 

Rice Meat 53 

Rice Celery • . . 61 

Squirrel 54 

Soup Hints 33 

Soup Stock 32 

Soup Stock, Economical 33 

Soup Thickening 33 

Soup Clarifying 35 

Soup and Gravies, Coloring for . . 34 

Soup Served Cold 37 

Soup, Glace 40 

Summer Vegetable 47 

Spanish Bean 49 

Split Pea 50 

Soup, Flavoring for 45 

Turkey 45 

Tomato Bisque 59 

Tapioca Veal 42 

Tomato 60 

Tomato Meat 61 

Tomato Bean 60 

Tomato Rice . . . . , 60 



606 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Soups (Continued). 

Venison 55 

Vegetable Chowder 62 

Vegetable, Meatless 59 

Veal 41 

Veal, Plain 42 

Vegetable 47 

Vermicelli 62 

White Rabbit 53 

Squirrels 154 

Pie 155 

Pot-pie 155 

Stew 154 

Table Drinks 524 

Blackberry Brandy 540 

Blackberry Wine 540 

Cafe a la Delmonico 627 

Cafe-au-Lait 526 

Champagne Cider 539 

Cherry Water 537 

Chickory in Coffee 524 

Chocolate 530 

Chocolate, Vienna 531 

Cocoa 531 

Cocoa, Iced 531 

Coffee, Boiled 626 

Coffee, Creamed 527 

Coffee, Egg 527 

Coffee, Dripped 524 

Coffee, How to Pour 524 

Coffee, Iced 526 

Coffee, Meringued 526 

Coffee, Steamed 525 

Coffee, Sweet Corn 626 

Coffee, Syrup of 527 

Cranberry Water 537 

Cream, Substitute for 526 

Currant Shrub 536 

Currant Syrup 537 

Fruit Sherbet 536 

Fruit Punches (Temperance) . . . 538 

Fruit Syrups 536 

Gingerade 533 

Ginger Beer 533 

Gingerette 634 

Hop Beer 534 

Koumis 534 

Lemonade 632, 533 

Mead .538 

Mead, Sarsaparilla 539 

Milk Shake 540 

Milk, Sterilizing ... 639 

Oatmeal, Harvest Drink 540 

Orangeade , . . , , 533 



Table Drinks (Continued). 

Punch, Fruit 538 

Punch, Lemon 638 

Punch, Orange 638 

Punch, Pineapple 538 

Raspberry Cordial 635 

Raspberry Vinegar 536 

Root Beer 534 

Soda Water 538 

Spruce Beer 534 

Strawberry Vinegar 536 

Sweet Cider, To Keep 539 

Tea 527, 529 

Terrapin 101 

Diamond Back, Stewed 102 

Stewed with Cream 101 

Toasts 330 

Baked Milk 331 

Chicken or Turkey 332 

Cream 330 

Cream, with Poached Eggs .... 330 

Dutch 331 

French 331 

Mock Cream 332 

Parisian 332 

Scotch 331 

Snowflake 332 

Veal 332 

Tripe 182 

A la Newburg 183 

Broiled 182 

Fricasseed Tripe 183 

Fried in Batter 183 

In Cream 183 

Lyonnaise Tripe 183 

Pickled 183 

Roast 183 

To Buy 182 

Turkey 130 

Braised 134 

Boned, Roasted 133 

Boiled 135 

Giblet Gravy 130 

Giblet Dressing 131 

How to Cook 134 

Hash 135 

Jellied 134 

Moulded 135 

Old-fashioned Stuffing for .... 131 

Ragout 134 

Roast 130 

Scalloped 134 

Sausage Dressing for Turkey . . . 131 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



607 



Turkey (Continued). 

Stewed with Tomato 138 

Turkey Pie loo 

With Chestnut Stuffing 131 

With Oyster Dressing 130 

Turtle 102 

Baked 102 

Soup 102 

Veal 184 

Baked Fillet of 186 

Braised 186 

Calf's Head Boiled 188 

Calf s Head Fried 188 

CalFs Head Cheese 189 

Chestnut Stuffing 185 

Call's Brains Boiled 189 

Calfs Liver, Plain 190 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 189 

Calfs Liver Fricasseed 189 

Cutlets (b-eaded) 187 

Cutlets with Mushrooms 187 

Calfs Head Stewed 188 

Force Meat 185 

Ham and Livei 189 

Mock Duck 187 

Pot Pie Crust 186 

Pot Pie 186 

Roast Breast of 185 

Roast Loin of 186 

Stewed Breast of 185 

Sweetbreads, Creamed 190 

Sweetbreads, To Prepare 190 

Sweetbreads in Jelly 190 

Stuffing 184 

Stew 186 

Terrapin, Mock 190 

Veal Ilead Cheese 188 

Vegetables 231 

Apples, Fried 260 

Apples, Fried Evaporated 260 

Asparagus 247 

Asparagus on Toast 248 

Asparagus, To Boil . . • .... 247 

Beans 244 

Beans, Boston Baked 245 

Beans, Canned String 244 

Beans, Lima 245 

Beans, Shelled Green 245 

Beans, String 241 

Beets a la Creme 258 

Beets, Baked 258 

Beets, Boiled 257 

Beet Greens 260 

Beets, Young 257 



Vegetables (Continued). 

Bread Served for a \egeiable, Fried 260 

Bruisels Sprouts 259 

Cabbage 242 

Cabbage, Boiled 242 

Carrots 250 

CaiTots, Caramel 250 

Carrots, Creamed 250 

Carrots, Fried 250 

Cauliflower, Boiled 2'13 

Cauliflower in Cream 243 

Cauliflower with Cheese 243 

Celery 249 

Celery, Creamed 250 

Chips, Saratoga 235 

Chow Waw, a Chinese Dish .... 255 

Com and Tomatoes, Scalloped Green 288 

Corn, Baked 237 

Com, Baked Canned 237 

Corn, Boiled a la Oriental 237 

Corn, Boiled Green 237 

Com Chowder 239 

Com Collo]5s 239 

Cora, Dried 240 

Corn, Escalloped 237 

Corn for Winter • 239 

Com, Fried 23/' 

Corn, Green 237 

Com or Hominy, Hulled 240 

Corn Oysters 239 

Corn, Stewed 238 

Cucumbers 251 

Cucumbers, Boiled 251 

Cucumbers, Fried 252 

Cucumbers, Raw 252 

Cucumbers, Stewed 251 

Cucumber Toast 252 

Dandelion Greens, Grandmother's . 259 

Egg-plant 252 

Egg-plant, Fried 252 

Egg-plant, Stewed Creole Method 253 

Egg-plant, Stuffed 252 

Greens 259 

Green Corn Pudding 239 

Green Peas, Stewed 243 

Green Peas with Bacon 244 

Griddle Cakes. Green Corn .... 239 

ITominv, Boiled 24U 

Hubbard Squash, Baked 257 

Lettuce . 256 

Lettuce a la Creme 256 

Lettuce, Boiled 256 

Lettuce, Wilted 256 

Lima Beans 245 

Lima Beans and Com 238 



608 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Vegetables (Continued). 

Macaroni 253 

Macaroni and Cheese 254 

Macaroni Hints 251 

Miscellaneous Vegetables 258 

Mushrooms 250 

Mushrooms, Creamed 251 

Mushrooms, Escalloped 251 

Mushrooms, Stewed 251 

Okra 258 

Okra, Creamed 258 

Okra Gumbo, Creole Style . , . . 258 

Onions 248 

Onions, Boiled 248 

Onions, Creamed 249 

Onions, Escalloped 249 

Oysters, Corn 239 

Parsnips 246 

Parsnips, Breaded 246 

Parsnips, Browned 246 

Parsnips, Creamed 246 

Parsnips, Fried 246 

Parsnips, in Batter 246 

Peas 243 

Peas, Boiled 243 

Peas, Creamed 244 

Peas, Stewed with Lamb 244 

Peppers, Stuffed Green 258 

Potatoes 233 

Potatoes a la Custard 234 

Potatoes and Cream, New 235 

Potatoes and Peas, New 235 

Potatoes, Baked 233 

Potatoes, Boiled 234 

Potatoes, Browned 234 

Potato Cakes, Sweet 237 

Potatoes, Custard 236 

Potatoes, French Fried 236 

Potatoes, Fried New 235 

Potato Ribbons 236 

Potato Rings 236 

Potato Snow 235 

Potatoes, Steamed 234 

Potatoes, Texas 236 

Potatoes, Whipped .... ... 234 

Pudding, Green Corn 239 

Raw Tomatoes, To Serve 242 

Rice 254 

Rice and Codfish 255 

Rice and Cheese ....•*... 255 

Rice, Raked 255 

Rice, Boiled 254 

Rice, Boiled Syrian Fashion .... 254 



Vegetables (Continued). 

Rice Patties 255 

Salsify, Fried 258 

Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster .... 258 

Saratoga Chips 235 

Sauerkraut . . 242 

Sauerkraut, Boiled 243 

Sauerkraut and Sausage 242 

Spinach 255 

Spinach a la Creme 256 

Spinach on Toast 255 

Spinach, Plain 256 

Spinach, with Drawn Butter .... 256 

Sc[uash 257 

Squash a la Creme . . 257 

Squash, Baked Winter 257 

Squash L' Elegante 257 

Succotash . 238 

Sweet Potatoes, Boiled or Steamed . 236 

Sweet Potatoes, Browned 2o6 

Tomatoes 241 

Tomatoes, Baked 241 

Tomatoes, Canned 241 

Tomatoes, Escalloped 241 

Tomatoes, To Peel 241 

Tomatoes, Stewed 241 

Trufiles . . 253 

Truffles, Italian Style 253 

Turnips 246 

Turnips, Boiled Whole 246 

Turnips, Browned 247 

Turnips, Creamed 247 

Turnips, Diced 247 

Turnips, in White Sauce 247 

Vegetables, Canned 232 

Vegetable Turkey 260 

Vegetables, Seasoning 231 

Water- Cress, Fresh 259 

Winter Succotash 239 

Water-Cress, Stewed 259 

Venison 151 

Haunch or Saddle of 151 

Larded Haunch of 152 

Leg of 152 

Waffles 310 

Cornmeal 314 

Quick 311 

Raised 311 

Woodcock 158 

Boiled 158 

On Toast 158 



^ii^cEtt ANEious Riicipti^ 



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